Dave_Hicks

Most contests look at raw photos and will specify the degree of edits allowed. This is just a labor saving tool, there is nothing in this that can't be done with existing post processing tools like Photoshop. So i don't see anything new changing in competitions.

I would guess that the photographer put a piece of glass over the subject and introduced a few bubbles underneath it. It probably required a platform on the glass to keep it in place. While some contests allow for created edits, I don't think a filter or AI construct would be allowed.

Still the case with the new strobe. Spotting light is centered.

That's no fun! There is always room for more Lens and Ports! 🙂 Seriously though, I think you will be really happy with the WWL-C and 105z. With the addition of your 8-15 you have the bases covered for 99% of the shooting you might dream about. BTW: You can buy the 24-50z lens in Like New quality from KEH for less than half retail price. ($193 vs $396) Get your 24-50z / Nauticam zoom gear here, which I designed and shared: Nauticam Zoom Gear for Nikon 24-50mm Z-mount lens by awkward_swine - MakerWorld null

No, not the same at all. This unit is using an entirely new power source (lithium ion), very different flash tubes, and a 6000 lumen video light. I am sure the circuitry is very different in many respects. Heat dissipation and power circuits are always the weak points in UW strobes and we've seen many units that had common failures in these areas. (S&S DS2, Backscatter MF1, Inon 240, etc) Only time in market will prove any new products to be reliable and even then anecdotal reports make it tough to get a true read on the story.

Seems a bit early to be to be making a statement on reliability.

The specs look really good. I am happy to see Retra stepping up to meet the growing list of viable competitors in the market, and take some steps to close the price gap. I look forward to watching the preview video.

Maybe give it a try using manual power level control. Lots of photographers prefer Manual over TTL as you can get much control and better results. TTL can be nice to have sometimes but it is limiting. When i used Ikelite strobes and housings I used TTL initially but soon found it was not good at wide angle. A little while later i realized i could to better on manual for macro as well.

No insults intended at all, that was not my goal. You have my apologies. I just don't understand the point of redefining the specified FOV. They are all relative I assume, so if you redefine one you need to do so with them all. What's the point of this recalculation?

Just for fun, I tried one of the free astrophotography star-remover apps, StarNet++. It works nearly as well as this paid solution, but you'd have to do a bit of plumbing to get it to automatically create the layers in PS. It only takes a couple of clicks to get the same result making a pair of layers. There are numerous youtube tutorials that show you how to use it StarNet++. I don't know how much customization they did with StarExterminator to remake it into BackscatterExterminator, but StarNet++ works pretty darn well on UW photos as is.

Madness. Get back to us when you have done these calculations underwater and revised the spec sheets for the entirety of the Nauticam port charts. 😲

You have the wrong data for the WWL-C FOV. It's 130-72º per the port chart.

The WWL-C is far more versatile providing 130deg wide angle and near macro zoomed to 50mm. The quality is excellent and no different from the WACP. It is a wet lens, but I've not found bubbles to be an issue. It's easy to clear it if that is a concern. This is my go-to setup most of the time. I don't think it replaces a Fisheye, and I still have the 8-15mm. However, I only use that in very specific scenarios where an ultra-wide fields of view is beneficial. Here are two shots from the same dive with the 24-50 & WWL-C at 24mm & 50mm.

Get the WWL-C and 24-50z setup. Excellent and very versatile. You may also want the 8-15mm behind a dome. I use it with the Zen 180mm with a 20mm extension. Not sure what else you could need beyond that. I also have a Kraken krl09 wet-wide lens for the 60mm on a flip, nice for some situations where you want true macro with a wide option. I designed a 3d printed zoom gear for the 24-50z. I am happy to send you one for shipping cost, and save you a couple hundred. DM me if interested.

Both work if we are talking about glass fiber. Multi-strand is better as it is more durable with a tighter bend radius. Less likely to break or fail.

Buoyancy control can be more refined than on OC, so no issues with blackwater diving.

Not sure i agree. On my ccr, while talking photos i am constantly adjusting buoyancy. I mostly do this hands free by exhaling through my nose to dump gas from the loop or pulling a hard breath to activate the ADV and add to the loop. Sure, its a bit less efficient, but that's the a sacrifice to the camera.

The main thing you need is to be able to fill 100% O2. Transfill from a big industrial O2 bottle that most dive operations have to blend nitrox. I often bring my own 14cf 2000psi O2 bottles as they are light and easy to transfill at a low pressure without a booster. Just pull the valve before you pack it. You can bring you own Sorb just like any other luggage. I can rent a diluent bottle in sizes from 30-80cf anywhere. So O2 fills are your limiting factor, which most places can handle. Beyond that it's just how valuable the CCR option is for that location.

I heavily favor m-CCR units. I think they are less complex, fewer points of failure, and far easier to maintain. No electronics to fail, batteries to changes, solenoids to jam, or electrical harnesses to corrode. I have been diving with Kiss mCCR units since 2007 and never once had to take it to a shop or send it back to the factory. There is nothing on the unit that i can not service or replace on my own. Diving an mCCR is simple. O2 flows at the rate you consume it when maintaining depth at a light workload. You adjust it when changing depth. This quickly becomes like maintaining speed while driving a car. You don't need to stare at your gauges but are always aware of them. This constant awareness is critical to safety, and in my opinion a reason that eCCR units are less safe. They enable complacency which can get you in trouble on that 1/100 day when something fails. mCCR units require your attention so you develop better and safer habits. Adding photography should be no problem, but build up a few dozen hours on unit first.

Yes, back mount is better for boat diving according to the boat captains I dive with. They see lots of divers and the side mounts are sort of a mess and need a lot more support from the crew. That never makes anyone very happy. I do a lot of shore diving independent of any dive shop or guide, so CCR works out great for me. Even when I am diving with a boat or resort in the Pacific Northwest you are still on your own. Nobody does guided dives around here unless you arrange for and pay for that service. You just work with the captain on the dive time, usually 60 minutes, but the profile is up to you. Thanks!

Silence is a major benefit of CCR diving. I did a whole week in Socorro where we listened to humpback whale songs every single dive! You can also find your missing OC buddy by listening for their bubbles. Equipment and training are likely in the 10,000 usd range, but this includes the basics. Most people will want extra tanks, maybe a booster, backup computer, etc. Travel is very doable and I've flown to Mexico, Pulau, Truk, Philippines, Indonesia, California with a pair of CCRs. However, i think there needs to be a good advantage to make the effort. Some locations may limit your ability to take full advantage. Places where you can dive fully independently, need to go deeper longer, and can have extended dive times beyond 60 minutes are best.

FYI: You can find benchmarks comparing the M2/M3/M4 + Pro + Max here: Apple MacBook Pro 14 (2024) review: the Pro for everyone - The Verge

Ignore all this info about bus speed as it will not make a significant difference in real world performance. Most external devices fail to meet theoretical maximums anyways. If you are ready to upgrade get the more recent M3 instead of an older M2 model. Support cycle lifetime and compatibility in the future will be more valuable than whatever benefits the higher end but older ultra model will deliver.

Thanks, I'm glad you liked the article. I've actually already written the "Traveling with a Rebreather" content. It was in this article I wrote for DPG, but they decided to segment it. I think they may run the other portion of the article in the future, perhaps next month? What is covered are some the logistics and coordination with the dive operator, what they can supply and what you need to bring. It also describes some of the work you need to do every night to clean, refill, and prepare for the next days diving.

Thanks! Traveling is really not a big deal. Just know that you'll spend half an hour at the end of each day of diving prepping your CCR for the next day. As for the cold dark thing, I try to relate cold water diving to something many people are familiar with. How would you like an extra 45 minutes on the ski slopes all by yourself? Cold water diving is usually comfortable as you wear the right amount of insulation for the situation.