Dave_Hicks

I really only used my 60mm with a Kraken KRL-09 wet-wide adapter lens. It flips down on a 60mm to make a wide angle option. It's a good way to combine Macro and Wide on a single dive. However, when I got my Z8 I also invested in the WWL-C with the 24-50z lens. This provide much of the same range and capabilities the 60+Kraken can do, so it's a bit of bench warmer these days. The WWL-C win in nearly every point of comparison between the two. Sharper, smaller, more flexible, etc.

I use the Nikon F 105mm on the FTZ with a Z8 camera. Previously I used it on my D300, D800, and D850. (I eventually broke my original lens and replaced it with a Like New used copy) It remains razor sharp and super-fast with the Z8. I don't think anyone would complain about sharpness or slow focus with this lens. That said, if I didn't already own the F-mount I would buy the Nikon 105Z lens if your primary camera is a Z-system body. I've not used it, but the evaluations all claim that it is a bit faster and sharper than the F mount. However, the improvements are marginal and not easy to demonstrate. It is going to be a bit lighter and smaller than the F-mount+FTZ however. If you already have the F-mount, it's going to be an expensive upgrade at ~$1000 for the lens and possibly a new Nauticam port or spacer. A very optional upgrade with a low cost/benefit ratio. Long ago I used to shoot the 60mm on DX cameras like the D300. It was a natural fit on that format. When I moved to FF the 105 drops into that comfortable slot the 60mm used to hold. I rarely use my 60mm any more as a result, it is just not as good. The difference from 90mm to 105mm is not significant and I don't think it's in the favor of a 90mm format. I would be interesting to see a head-to-head with Tamron 90 and Nikon Z 105mm. If nothing else, the F16 limit of the Tamron would make it an uphill climb against your Nikon options. The Sony 90mm is not universally loved, so the Tamron probably looks like an attractive option for Sony Shooters.

I'm unclear what advantages Tamron would have over the F or Z mount Nikon 105 lenses. These are both excellent lenses - fast, sharp, reliable. The F-mount is also available on used markets at excellent prices. (ex. KEH has the F mount like new for under $400) I've yet to see any comparison between the two brands. What are you looking for in the Tamron 90?

If you are getting flare even from a pulled back position, I am guessing that your strobe power is excessive for the conditions. Strobe power too high, ISO too high, aperture too big, or some combo of these. Get closer and lower the strobe power.

Maybe caused by using a VPN or some other intermediate software or networking solution? Try using another device. Scubaboard does not always work with VPNs, I've seen errors from using one.

+1 to the suggestion to get a Backscatter MF-2. The Inon 330 is just not well suited for a Snoot. I tried the 10bar snoot and it was terrible. You will be 10 times happier with the MF-2 Snoot combo, and you'll have a spare strobe as well. I pretty much always pair the MF-2 Snoot with a larger strobe like the 330, which acts as a fill light on low power.

You should leave it on the boat but occasionally I'll forget to take it off and I'll just stick it in my dry suit pocket. if you don't have a pocket you can always get something like tech shorts that include large pockets for wetsuit diving.

Don't buy that. Use a standard stainless steel bolt snap.

Novus #1 is just a cleaner. It is a finish only with no abrasives, per the product info below. Just don't rub too hard with your microfiber. SAFE & GENTLE: Contains no abrasive chemicals, ensuring a greaseless, anti-static shine that resists fingerprints and smudges while protecting your surfaces from further damage. Perfect for regular maintenance.

Novus 1 and a very clean microfiber cloth should clean it on the inside.

Check it all. Carry on the batteries and camera body & lenses.

You should spec out an ideal system for you X-T3 and the prices you found. Perhaps there will be some ideas for substitutions or improvement.

You made some beautiful and unique images! Very inspiring. I have a buddy that is really into manual focus prime lenses, Lensbaby 56 & 28mm. I was able to design and 3d print a set of focus gears for his lenses in a Nauticam housing. It's made using his lenses a lot more practical. You are still restricted to a pre-set aperture, but at least you have some freedom with focus. I had made a bunch of zoom gears for my Nauticam setup, so I had a good starting point. Some of these lenses "telescope" as you turn the zoom ring, so gear needs to be multi-part to allow for the motion. Nauticam Focus Ring for Lensbaby Velvet 56mm lens by AwkwardSwine - Thingiverse

See if your local library has one or if there is a maker space in the area.

Can you print a copy of the part for your strobe?

You can use the Nauticam trigger but it won't do TTL or HSS. You can to rapid fire at 30fps depending to power setting with the stock trigger. However, in the Nauticam Sony housings they don't provide a trigger like they do with the Nikon model. I don't know why that is.

I know some folks have been waiting for the Sony TTL / HSS flash trigger from Backscatter for their line of strobes. I just today got an email announcing availability for this set of new triggers. It looks like they have configurations for Nauticam and non-nauticam housings, and both sony and olympus options. Backscatter Smart Control Optical TTL Flash Trigger Review & Setup Guide - Underwater Photography - Backscatter

Welcome from Seattle! Get that drysuit are start diving locally! We have a very active local dive community and some of the best diving in the US with 0-2 hours driving range. Head up to BC and you'll find some of the World's best diving. If you ever want to give some local diving a try, let me know and I'll join you for a dive or two. Cheers, Dave

Agreed, I prefer a slightly negative rig. I don't want it floating in my face or trying to escape to the surface.

Sounds like he had the choice of which direction to go and was able to go back and retrieve the extra camera. That is not the case with many dive sites. You go where the current takes you, and even if you can go backwards, you might not find your camera in 5 feet of visibility. As I said, you can have a lot of freedom in calm clear waters. That is not what all scuba diving looks like. Even then you are one out-of-air or buoyancy emergency in your dive group from losing your camera.

I would have lost at least 3-4 camera rigs over the years if I didn't have a lanyard clipped on to my camera all the time. That's just in-water rescue assists with other divers where I needed both hands and all my focus. I do a lot of diving in high current scenarios where you start or end the dive holding on or pulling yourself on an anchor line which is a hell of a lot easier with both hands. And I don't know how you deploy a DSMB while holding on to a camera. Unless you are only doing very casual diving in calm seas and clear water, I think you need to have a lanyard.

I have read somewhere that AOI is the manufacturing partner behind Backscatter's strobe products. I can't recall the source of the quote, but it looks like it's true from the comparison.

That's Great! Love the orange TPU.

Power can be used in 200 big flash dumps or 1,000 smaller ones. There is a power knob that goes all the way down to 1/32 power. A powerful strobe like the HF-1 is fantastic in the Pacific Northwest (where I dive) no mater your subject. Battery life of the HF-1 is fantastic, and the powerful video/spotting light will come in very handy.

Feel free to do what makes sense to you. Mixing strobe brands and models is done all the time for lots of reasons. I have often combined a small Strobe (MF-1) with a snoot and a bigger strobe like the Inon 330 or HF-1. Years ago i combined the Ikelite DS-51 and DS-125. Balanced lighting is not all that and using varied power levels can assist in creating more dynamic and interesting photos. Allowing some shadows and texture into an image is a goal for some and using the second strobe as low power fill in a different position is a good way to do it. Example: This one was shot with a Backscatter MF-2 snoot above the subject pointing down and an HF-1 on low fill from the left and back pointing slightly inwards. Nikon Z8 w/Nikkor 105mm lens, +10 diopter, f18@1/200s iso125 Backscatter MF-2 strobe & snoot + BS HF-1 strobe Pacific Spiny Lumpsucker I shot last week: