Dave_Hicks

I used a 60mm macro lens to shoot Thresher Sharks in the Philippines with great success. The sharks did not come close enough to fill the frame at 35mm so I switched to a 60mm and got some great pictures. That was a very specific scenario, but its not unheard of for me to shoot a big octopus or crab that comes along when I have a macro lens mounted. That will require getting more like 1-2meters back.

The Nikon 60mm macro will focus at damn near 0cm range behind a flat port. No diopter required. From what I am reading, the SubSea+5 on a Nikon 105mm does about the same thing this MFO-1 does, at about 1/2 the price. It reduces the MFD from about 25cm to maybe 10.

Do you already have an Smc-1? I am curious what hole or need this fills for you? Isn't it the same magnification as the Smc-1? I have the Subsee +5 & +10, but rarely use the +10. It's 3.5x magnification is just too tiny for my tastes most of the time.

You should plan on it. It is truly one of the best dive destinations in the world.

Inon controls have some design issues to be sure. I made this thing to address the major issues on the Inon 330 strobe: Inon 330 UW Strobe - Button Lock by AwkwardSwine - Thingiverse This Thing is a solution to a common problem experienced with the Inon 330 Underwater Strobe. The Inon 330 has a pre-flash control button that must be pushed down and turned to lock when used on cameras that down use preflash. (most DSLR/Mirrorless cameras) The button has a tendency to pop up if accidentally bumped, which can easily occur when adjusting the strobe power (eV) knob. Another issue with the 330 can occur if you inadvertently bump the Power/Mode knob from its usual Manual position to the Full mode. Both of these problems will spoil your photos. The Button Lock think aims to resolve both of these problems in an unobtrusive manner. A cylinder protects the Pre-flash button from being altered. A spring arm adds some resistance to the Power/Mode switch when it is in the Manual mode. The object is held down by the cap to the electrical sync connector.

Did you 3d print the aluminum? That's my point. Printed plastic is not strong enough for a functional strobe arm. You didn't print the ball or arm. Printing the floatation is relatively easy.

I doubt you could print an arm that would be strong enough. You need an aluminum arm and ball at the center for sure. I just built around the ULCS arms i already have. As i mentioned, I just didn't find that a printed arm would be better than Stix floats, and not as robust. My arm floats had more buoyancy but weighed more, and were more fragile. Stix are cheap too, but that was never the point. The port floats didn't have a better alternative, and seemed like a better solution than what could be purchased.

Are you asking about the port floats or ulcs arm floats? Parameters were very simple. Used a .4mm nozzle & .2mm layers, 4 walls, 8 top/bottom layers, and 8% grid infill. On my P1S I get super clean prints with ABS and it weighs less than pla or petg. Brushing with acetone seals it well, and a coat of epoxy resin protects it further. I had success with just the acetone but I think adding the epoxy will be more durable.

Seal it in the AC car when possible. Maybe have someone blow in dry tank air with a nozzle as you seal it if fogging becomes a problem. I dive in similar conditions often (50f water and humid boat cabin when i seal) and never have trouble with fogging. I do vacuum seal the housing which may also help.

Very nice. I like that clear TPU! Maybe add a lanyard loop?

Did Interceptor leave the board? He was really aggressive on many occasions and probably got tired of people not automatically agreeing with his opinions. Just my speculation. It's too bad because he has a lot of knowledge and experience to share. I know from years in Type-A dominated workplaces that learning how to effectively communicate with others is a common weakness for some of the smartest peole.

Why do this in camera with jpg when you can get the same effect cropping with a raw file? You can upsize using topaz or adobe with impressive results.

Do you have any insight on why they discontinued the z330 so far in advance of a replacement? I get not wanting to undercut the current model by announcing a new one, but it seems like they miscalculated the timing.

You also should also get a pack of MicroMesh wet sandpaper. This works better on acrylic domes than Novus in my experience for substantial scratches. Novus is good to finish after sanding. https://a.co/d/bsMyxhb

Great video Bronson, it was fun diving with you on this trip.

Southen California, Monterrey, Puget Sound, and Vancouver Island are where you want to spend time. There are actual dive resorts on Vancouver Island with world class diving. April is excellent in the PNW.

Maybe so if deep enough, thus the cap. Aren't these rated to 300ft? I have seen a few friends diving without the cap by mistake. That is really fun to point out to your buddy at 60feet under! 😧 BTW, i had the o-ring go loose on my pressure valve after a number of years. Be sure to check it and replace if it shows wear.

I got this working a few months ago, with 200x65x65mm floats that sandwich on to standard ULCS arms. I tried both PLA epoxy resin painted, and ABS with acetone smoothing to seal them. Both worked to 100 feet. However neither was superior to STIX jumbo floats from a dry weight vs buoyancy comparison and i worried about robustness. I don't think it is possible to make these water tight to 100+ feet without secondary treatment (epoxy, acetone) unless you make them with so many walls that they weigh too much and loose some potential buoyancy. The Stix material is just better and fairly inexpensive. It was fun to build them though! On the other hand the custom Nauticam port floats that i made for the 60mm and 87mm ports are working great after dozens of dives and trips around the world. I made these with PLA but plan to redo them with ABS to save weight.

Probably not. The cap is a secondary seal. The vacuum valve itself is the primary. The older models had a valve you had to twist open/close, the newer ones have a one-way valve with a push button to release. The cap is to prevent those primaries from getting dislodged while underwater.

Find some used Inon 330s. They are a better match for your criteria and needs.

I have been using Nauticam housings with Vacuum pump with the D800, D850, and D850 for maybe 10 years now. I never had any issues, damage, or degradation to the pump. Most of that time I was diving almost every week and doing 100-200 dives a year with the housing. So while these thing clearly fail now and again, I don't see it as a weak point or bad design.

Good idea! I just made my own anchors with TPU stuck on with 3M double sided rubber foam tape.

But where will I sell my Ikelite D70 housing now????

Had to look up that word!