Everything posted by RVBldr
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Software isn't cheap to build and costs need to be recovered somewhere along the value chain. People don't like Adobe's subscription for the Photo Package, but for about $10 USD/month, I get updates regularly and a solid bit of software. I need to pull down the Backscatter Xterminater package for a demo. I've continuously provided the same feedback to Adobe, but the capability hasn't progressed with them. After 14 years with Microsoft, customer inputs take a lot of time to make their way into the software product cycle, to supporting the small developers will usually provide new features way faster then the monoliths at some minor risk. -
It's taken a while to get this zoom gear right, but I finally got a good working version. I have a Sony 7AC with the Canon 8-15 fisheye, and MC-11 adapter. I really didn't like the gear mesh with the Nauticam 100-120 adapter as the lens and adapter gears are at 90-degrees, so movement is a bit chunky, and you had to disassemble half the unit to remove the camera from housing. This zoom gear is designed to place the teeth in the same location as the 28-60mm kit lens, and thus uses the zoom knob on the housing, which has a linear mesh instead of 90-deg (lens zoom is now very smooth). It also allows you to remove the camera without taking off the dome, then the lens, to remove the camera. I expect this would probably work for any of the A7C versions using the Canon 8-15/MC-11 setup. If any of the Sony A7C folks would like a copy of the .step file for your own printing, I'm happy to share. Just hit me with a PM. Jim
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Thanks Phil, I get the longer focal range, but to effect that, does it lower the minimum focal distance, extend the max focal distance, or both? In the case of the Sony 90mm, we have the Full, Infinity - .5m, and .5m - .28m. Just trying to clarify how this potentially manifests itself in reality. Does it effectively just minimize the hunting through those ranges? If I select the lower range .28mm -.5m, would we basically get a .28m - 1.42m range?
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If that's true, I see a potential to use the 90mm in blackwater, which eliminates the current MFD on the 90mm and makes it unsuitable on the Sony. If so, this gives a potential option to the sub-par 50mm macro.
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I'd also contend that the editing process for video is 10x that of stills if not more. Assuming you're not just throwing some individual clips on to SM, creating, editing, annotating, and publishing video is much more involved than some of our Lightroom workflows.
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Bring your warm undies! 😉 Water in early October was consistently 47F/ 8.4C, so over a day of diving, it gets chilly.
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First macro (Nudi, Nudi, and Warbonet) and last two were with CMC (Nudi, Nudi, and Warbonnet). Shots 25,28,30,35 were taken with a 90mm.
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Had a fantastic first time trip to God's Pocket in the way north reaches of Vancouver Island, British Columbia. The assortment of life was amazing, and especially impressed with sheer number of jellys, to include one of healthiest Lions Mane jellys I've seen. I was generally using my A7C/NA-A7C with the kit 28-60/WWL-1B/ CNC1, but used the Canon 8-15 fisheye on occasion.
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For the OP, not only assigning ratings, but tag your shots as well, that will become very powerful for finding your older images. Recently, I've also gone back through rate, tag, delete and although it can take a lot of time, it's all well worth it if you want to stay organized.
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@TimG I believe that might just delete the first photo selected, so you need to repeat. Otherwise, once all have been selected, right click and there should be an option to DELETE ALL SELECTED PHOTOS. That will mass delete and allow you select Remove from Drive.
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I've been using Adobe Portfolio for a while now and it does a decent job, and easy/ intuitive to use and allows for some organization of the albums, and it's free with the Photo package subscription.
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Thanks, that's what I was suspecting. I have a lot of experience with the 28-60mm and CMC-1 and -2, and they work really well. I've been experimenting with the 90mm and CMC-1, and just not having a lot of good success. Good inputs above though.
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Wakatobi was fantastic, you'll love it!
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Maybe a dumb question, but has any had success with the Sony 90mm macro + CMC-1? Or is SMC the way to go with that lens. I'm finding that I have to get really close, 90mm set on infinity focus, and even then, the focus depth is miniscule.
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Another cold and green water occupant here from Redmond, WA.
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I've been happy with a Stahlsac Clipper bag Wheeled Dive Luggage: Stahlsac Clipper Roller Bag Luggage and it's been to Chuuk, Hawaii a bunch, FL, Maldives, Indonesia, etc. It fits the general dive gear (3 or 5mm suit, reg, BC, fins, booties, and other misc items like float arms and my CCR Breathing hoses, then clothes for a week or so, coming in at about 45 lbs. So far the bag is holding up well including zippers.
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Chip, assume you looked at the 140mm dome as well? I was potentially looking at the very same configuration with 8-15 and the Zen100.
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Nice pic, but as I recall, that tank sits at about 150' FSW, that's a pretty short dive on a single tank (no pun intended). -
My supplier for experimental aviation avionics had their own branding which also seems applicable to the usual u/w photography suppliers: 🤔
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Only about 5 dives so far, but all works per design with no issues.
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I can attest that there's a steep learning curve but worth the effort. I had the prism-enabled cheaper snoot for the YS, but upgraded to the SOFT (non-lite version) with the YS-D3 mount ring. Its' a bit large and another bit of kit to carry around, but has a nice adjustable target beam that seems to work well. Learning how to target and align with the focus depth will take a little patience and practice.
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For the diopters, you could consider the bayonet mount instead of the flip holder. They do swap out very quick and might get some of the bulk off the front of that port when not in use. Just a consideration.
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Really nice, Blue Heron Bridge?
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Been using a D3 for several years now in both tropical and cold water, and generally, it's been a solid strobe. I just had a minor flood in HI a month ago, but a bit of white vinegar to clean out the battery compartment, and a new cap and I'm back in business. Still don't know why it flooded but seems to have only been a partial as the strobe kept firing through the dive.
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Just piling on to Humu's comment above, if you want to do the direction of a FF, the A7C is very close in size to the a6700, and likewise, the 1/160 sync speed doesn't seem to be an issue.
