Nemrod

I have been using on loan, pool only thus far, the Marelux Apollo S. The build quality is excellent, very compact for the power output (GN36) and they have a nice 110 degree angle without diffusers, more with installed. They use flat top high current 18650 cells and just go and go and recycle fast. And the price is competitive. Might be a consideration.

A few more. Shooting dual S220 strobes, WWL-1.

A few sample shots from Cozumel. Just straight from camera jpegs.

I have had this inconsistency of similar nature with my A6400 and two UWT triggers. Never could find a reason.

My little Canon S90 (FIX aluminum housing, pre-Nauticam) will sync at speeds up to 1/2000. Still going strong.

Such a camera has a leaf or iris shutter and therefore has no limitation on X-sync speed.

That really is not compact camera. It is a fixed lens camera much like old film range finder types. It needs to have a short range 24-75mm zoom lens if fixed. None of it matters as there will likely not be a housing for it and combined with a housing it is too much money. Compact at least to me implies a sub M4:3 sensor, like the RX or G series or the old Canon S series. Not just the external size. I guess there might be others but right now the only three compact sensor cameras that UW housings are available for are the OM TG, Canon G and Sony RX?

Chris, I have a Nauticam NA-6400 (Sony). That is an A6400 crop sensor camera. I recently acquired, additionally, a new Nauticam NA-R50 (Canon). Either camera fits in the case with most accessories. I mostly shoot a CMC lenses for macro and the WWL rides on my housing 90% of the time. I put the arms in my checked luggage. I just ordered a new TrekPac kit for my 1535 Air in hopes of getting more in the case and better fitting either housing. The pluck foam just uses up too much useful space. Case depth is critical, the 1535 is just deep enough to take the housing with the handles and balls attached. Otherwise things start having to come apart or lay the housing over which consumes more space. I am actually in Cozumel now and rather than the 1535 I used a small sub carry-on sized roller bag for the NA-R50 with two strobes, CMC lenses and batteries etc. The WWL and arms went checked.

Chris, no, that orange case is a Pelican Air 1535 carry on size case.

The WWL-1 with the OE foam collar is negative but on either my NA-6400 or my NA-R50 the overall balance is near perfect. I have both set slightly negative using two Nauticam 70X800 float arms and two more 8 inch arms with the standard Stix floats now replaced by some Amazon arms I found that are prettier but work no better. My float collar was getting a little buggered up, cosmetics only, so I refinished and painted with PlastiDip. So far so good. I have a spare float collar should I ever wear this one out. I have had it to over 130 feet, even 150 feet more than once with no deleterious effects. I use a Stix buoyancy collar on my Canon/FIX90 rig with the old Inon WAL lens with dome, a heavy chunk without.

The metering would be the same as would occur in Tv or Av? But those would be fixed so it is the ISO that is allowed to float if Auto ISO selected? Really, I have no idea, thus asking you folks with more camera knowledge?

I looked around and perhaps missed it but does anyone shoot manual camera and manual strobes but use Auto ISO? Same, manual camera settings, Auto ISO but with sTTL?

The D2000 does not work any differently than a S220, D200 or other Inon strobe. It also has an external auto mode they do not have. You can purchase a replacement magnet. Newer Inon strobes use a switch to select preflash, no preflash. Preflash is needed for sTTL. The D2000 uses a magnet to activate (or not) the preflash selector switch. The sTTL mode automatically reverts to preflash expected. Manual strobe mode you will need to use the magnet to select preflash/no preflash. Sony cameras are weird, not sure about the A7 but there is no way to cancel preflash on my A6400 except via the UWT board and the #0 board switch selection.

I use the S2000 position for TTL with either Inon D2000 or Inon S220. Works fine. I am shooting with a Sony A6400. There are occasional and annoying fail to sync with every type of strobe I have been able to get my hands on with my UWT trigger. You should be able to run full manual with the #0 position set on the UWT board and Inon in M and set for no pre-flash. Or TTL with the Inon set for sTTL and the UWT set on #2 (?) position. You will need to configure a WL command selection and play with that setting on a programable button. You have the instruction sheet for your UWT trigger? It is detailed in the instructions how to set up. Yes Inon strobes will work with the UWT trigger in manual or TTL modes on the UWT board. The 0 manual position on the UWT board does not fire a pre-flash so your Inon will be set for manual and no pre-flash. The #2 TTL position does fire a pre-flash and sTTL on the strobe selection always assumes a pre-flash from the camera as that is how sTTL works. In Cozumel now, sorry if my asnwer is incomplete, sort of about to go diving.

I get that :). For us Cozumel is an easy day trip away with plenty of time for happy hour. Been coming here my entire life ;). I have never done the bag drag from Cancun. Been over there and to the Cenotes a few times. A friend had his camera rig stolen on the ferry. I never let my equipment out of sight on the ferry or anywhere for that matter, just asking for it. Cozumel is friendly and easy, it is just they never used to ask anything about cameras and now the last two times and this time was asked! So, not sure if the "infection' will spread over here. Cozumel is a little different and maybe it will remain free of such foolishness, just do not bring two high end camera rigs that look expensive. That red button lottery, who knows! The unknown is the fret.