Nemrod

See if you can purge the housing before closing with dry compressed air from a tank (gently). Or one of those cans of nitrogen for blowing dust from equipment and electronics. And then close up and pull the vacuum.

You did not say what system you have. Unless you are shooting an OM Systems camera or a TG you will not have TTL capability with the Backscatter strobes. Possibly with a Sony only if the housing has room for a rather large and clunky and expensive and proprietary trigger to insert. Probably beyond your needs but the Retra Maxi has the largest power range of any current strobe from barely a flash to huge power! And has universal TTL. The price Delta between the HF1 and the Maxi is not that much considering the two products. The Maxi is maxi! And neutral in the water without floats.

Age is a state of mind.

You know, these days, 50 yo is barely grown up.

Cozumel. Fly by shooting, lol. Between dives now, heading back out shortly and may even leave the camera in the room since I already have it set up for tomorrow. What fun is that!

Just an update. Have the incredible Retra Maxis strobes in the water now for two weeks and several more dives yet. There is a learning curve with them. But the reason for the post, the sleeves I made from an old wetsuit arm and especially the @Dave_Hicks bumpers are performing fantastic to protect my beautiful, shiny silver Retras from all that nasty marine stuff! Thanks.

I like the turtle and the snapper. Nice shots. Those who have never dove Cozumel might not appreciate how difficult it can be to deal with the current. Pretty much fly by shooting often difficult to get framing and settings adjusted, one chance at a shot and zoom away.

I have found that sometimes the battery end contacts form an oxide layer that increases resistance. Spinning them in the charger will help them to make better contact and complete a cycle.

Simple question. Is it possible to install the Nauticam bayonet system to an AOI housing 67mm threaded port?

The point made about the camera lens possibly being more flare prone in some, could be? Could explain such varied experiences with the same optics. The photo with the beautiful gar fish, very shallow, very bright sun. Challenging conditions for sure. For laughs, Canon A570 P&S, Ikelite case, Inon WAL with glass dome, shot right into the sun with some cool lens reflections that look like planets. Photo sucks, lol, what do you expect for a 5MP antique! Darn thing had manual aperture, iso and shutter! Shallow and bright, a little flare in the lower right corner. Surely the WACP could do as well!

Is the Z6 limited to 1/200 for strobe sync and the OM1 can get 1/250? That would be annoying but not a deal breaker since I have dealt with 1/160 on my Sony pop up and 1/200 with the UWT trigger. But my Canon goes to 1/250 and it does make a useful difference shooting against the sun up shallow.

I do not believe a WWL would flare as in the photo above. That flare really surprises me.

One 128 card per week plus one spare.

Never used a WACP and understanding that people can have strong opinions and varied experiences, but I cannot recall ever having a flare issue with the WWL-1. I do not think it prone to flare. Less so than my dome. But my dome is acrylic, not one of those high dollars Zen glass domes ;). And I like to shoot back into the sun. Photos with WWL-1 and either a Nauticam NA-R50 or NA-6400.

Hmmmm, maybe the OP needs a Dave Hicks cover for his rare S&S lens! Maybe I do too for my Nauticam dome ;).