Nemrod

Thanks I saw mention of S1 and S2 but no explanation of what they are.

I am just thinking, exploring options none of which seem attractive to me. I am sitting on a pile of money earmarked for strobes but not a strobe exists that I am satisfied with. I am of the mind I will not pay for a strobe that has RC/Sony only modes and no slave TTL. Like WTH! Or they are big enough and heavy enough to serve as a boat anchor and put my airline weight limits to the test!

I am a manual shooter but slave TTL is useful at times and I have spending $2000 plus on strobes without that capability and modes I have no use for. My rant for the evening.

If Retra could shrink the Maxi (?) to a Midi and say it ran about $1,000 per unit I could get excited. If it had slave TTL.

A quick question that perusing the OM did not satisfy. There is no mention of a pre-flash cancel, does this strobe have that capability?

I understand this is a full manual only strobe, nonetheless I need a pre-flash cancel mode.

On 11/26/2024 at 3:10 AM, Adventurer said:

I was about to take out the new HF-1 on a dive trip, but upon packing testing I was surprised to find that their “automatic mode” just supports Sony and Olympus ( now OM Systems). 
 

This is explicitly described in Backscatters written manual and also I did not find flash converter / TTL trigger manufacturers which supports the HF-1.

 

Having said that, the HF-1 might not be the first choice for Canon and Nikon mirrorless shooters. I don’t understand why Backscatter did not make that product just as versatile as the SEA&SEA YS-D3 DUO or the Marelux Apollo strobe line. The technology is obviously out there.

 

what a downer 😵‍💫

Same here, lack of a slave TTL mode is pretty much a no go for me also. I would buy the HF-1 or the new Atom but for one thing, no slave TTL. My Sony and my Canon neither support RC or the Sony (RC) modes and will work only in a manual mode with those strobes. And whatever triggers Backscatter offers do not work with either camera system. Not everyone shoots Olympus or a TJunk, seems to be a blaring omission to me. The DS130 might be a go but YS strobes seem to have issues with reliability.

I like that the YS130 retains standard TTL capability. Not sure about the size of the thing and that digital panel, I would rather just have a dial with numbers. Are these made in Japan?

Too bad our digital cameras do not get updated to the latest technology by purchasing a new roll of film. It is not the housing that cause the depreciation, it is the never ending "improvements" to cameras that is driving the obsolesce of the cameras, lenses and thus the housings for them.

Once upon a time computers were sold by processor speed, this is 166MHz, then 200MHz and now it is not really relevant as a shopping metric. Maybe someday cameras will have resolution that exceeds the optical resolution of the human eye and the capability of the human brain to discern any difference. Then maybe there will not be a new and better model every few months.

13 minutes ago, waso said:

I better ask Pavel - maybe there was some progress in the meantime.

But I would prefer a housing-inside-system anyway.

Yes, you should. If you get an answer please let us know.

I have shot MF-2 strobes with my Sony A6400 setting the UWT trigger board to 0 and using the learning function for the MF-2 strobes and of course with the strobes set to Manual.

I wonder as well if he will in the future include Backscatter OM/Sony as a switch selection and as well if existing boards could be updated for that functionality.

1 hour ago, waso said:

But it doesn't seem to be compatible with Backscatter.
And there's only the Retra Pro MAX /II listet.

I am pretty sure the UWT trigger board will support Backscatter strobes for manual use only. That would be UWT switch position 0. The UWT board will not support the Backscatter strobes in TTL mode as they use some sort of proprietary coding, at least my UWT board will not.

8 hours ago, Grantmac said:

Interesting....

I have only experience with using the built in flash on the A6300 and A6400 which from what I can tell have no ability to disable pre-flash.

I'm moving into an A7RIII which has no internal flash and it was my intent to just run a manual trigger.

None of which really relates to this flash. Please carry on.

It does pertain to this thread because the Back Scatter strobes are not compatible with many popular Sony A series cameras for TTL. The A6300 and A6400 being one of them. The Backscatter strobes do have a Manual preflash cancel thus Manual strobe shooting is supported but cannot do TTL.

If asking me, I cannot say. If it was meant as an argument I still cannot say. I do know that WL Command does not seem to turn off the preflash on my A6400. I use the UWT trigger, if I want manual with no preflash signal I set 0 on the UWT board. If I want TTL I select the position on the strobe matching or nearest the strobes I have.

I would hazard a guess that the Back Scatter trigger plugged into the hot shoe translates, using built in software, between the camera hot shoe output signals and the Backscatter strobes via optical signals over the fiber cables. And just to say it again, I do not know. Maybe it is a question for Back Scatter to explain.

I am satisfied with plain old optical TTL which the Backscatter strobes do not have. But that Inon, YS, Marelux, Retra (?) do have.

15 hours ago, mdo905 said:

Yes, all of the backscatter-branded strobes (miniflash, hybrid flash, and atom flash) are all designed in coordination with AOI and built by AOI.

I know, I keep hearing how there are so many strobes, YAFS sort of thing. And I suppose considering the niche segment nature of UW photography there is a decent selection but many of them are just rebranding with a little shake and stir of features. And this new (non) feature of not including a standard optical TTL mode and pushing us to specialty branded triggers specific to the strobe (Back Scatter) is already getting old.

I am surprised Backscatter does not know and understand that none of their namesake strobes will support simple standard optical TTL using the camera flash as trigger. The Atom will support manual with and without a preflash but cannot run TTL. TTL is only possible with Oly RC mode or Sony WL Command. Which is sort of chintzy and disappointing and my current hang up with buying a pair. Unless I am reading the manuals wrong.

Make that three for curious.

On 1/30/2026 at 9:18 AM, Adrian Gresores said:

I always dive with a focus light for wide angle, especially since the strobes are so far apart. For macro with the strobes closer together, from fish portraits down to supermacro, I'm not sure if they are necessary. Since I dive in clear, blue water (Caribbean), could I just rely on the 1000 lumen target lights from my dual Atom flashes, both white and red, even at depth? One less item on my rig and decreased weight would be desirable.

What do you think and what do you do?

I do not see that you are accomplishing much by removing and leaving your focus light behind. Mine is useful for minor penetrations, night dives where it sometimes becomes my main light and for signaling. Focus is just part of why it is useful. My light is the Kraken also. Mounted atop the housing in the cold shoe. And, yes, it is sometimes useful for focus. My cameras seem quite capable of focusing most of the time without assist but now and then ----.

16 minutes ago, Chris Ross said:

Does the R50 housing have an arrangement like other Nauticam housings where you can pull the gear control out and twist and lock it in a retracted position?

The NA-R50 uses a (rubber) sleeve that is integral to the fixed port to grip the lens as the camera slides into the housing and port.

Perfect solution for over under shots!

Is it April?

On 1/1/2026 at 8:54 AM, JohnD said:

That lack of TTL, if desired, would severely limit the choices in a smaller macro strobe, since there are few of those that offer TTL and accommodate a snoot. If the snoot were not an issue, the Inon S220 would likely be my choice.

I guess the lack of a modeling light limits snoot use for the S220? It certainly has the bayonet to accept accessories.

The Atom flash is probably where I am headed and just have to live with Manual only with all three of my cameras.

Just opinions.

The TG is a most unimpressive thing.

I would not purchase an expensive camera and put it in a cheap plastic housing (Sea Frogs).

I doubt anyone but pros really needs a FF camera. But we want what we want and can figure out a way to justify it.

I also doubt you will see much difference in images with a MFT vs a APS-C. Either of which are huge sensors compared to a TG.

Your image softness with the TG could be the result of many factors including the inability to control shutter speeds.

By the time a housing is outfitted with a wet lens, a dome port or macro port, dual strobes and supporting arms, tray, focus light and floats then the size difference between MFT/APS-C/FF begins to disappear. Yes, FF is definitely bigger and heavier and more $. But there are some fairly small FF cameras out there.

Here is my tiny little Canon S90 in the equally minuscule FIX housing with twin strobes and floats and a tray.

Cut the ends off both cables to get clean, fresh ends using, as stated, a sharp single edge razor blade or box cutter blade. I have, in a pinch, been able to cut the cables with my very sharp Swiss Army Knife. Lay the cable on a smooth, hard surface and press the blade through the cable at 90 degrees. The blade needs to pass through the cable with one slice, do not saw at the cables.

There is not a Z330 position on your older board. For TTL you would choose the position that is for an Inon strobe (Z240/D2000 etc). Or set for hardwired manual.

Since (you say) more light is emitted by the LEDs at position 0, which is hard wired manual, I would run the trigger board there. And set the strobes to manual and configure the Inon "Advanced Cancel Circuit Switch" for no preflash. And thus shoot in full manual, camera and strobes.

The Z330 strobes do not have HSS, you cannot use an HSS trigger position or any shutter speed above your camera native maximum sync speed.

You might check that the cables are fully inserted in their end caps.

If one cable is not repairable you can use the one good cable to a strobe and then run the other strobe as slave from it by just having an open sensor port. of course, the flash will fire on other person's strobes if it sees them.

Always carry spare 613 cables:

DiverVision Underwater Photo Equipment

9 hours ago, bvbellomo said:

How are you supposed to turn the rotary dial? At home, I used a jewelers screwdriver, but didn't bring it on the trip.

Finger nail? I can turn my UWT switch with a finger nail, a Swiss Army knife, a plastic spoon, a dinner knife, toothpick.

If the trigger LEDs are confirmed to be firing and the strobes are not firing then the issue is either the optical cables or the strobes. Or they are not aligned with the optical windows.

If the LEDs are not firing then try new batteries and if that does not work you may be --------.

If the LEDs are firing and the strobes are firing but not syncing then please set the TTL switch to 0 and set your strobes to manual and configure them for no preflash (Hardwired Manual Mode).

In the future I find it useful to always set my gear up at home on the kitchen table even to the dismay and consternation of my wife person and make sure everything is working. I also usually do a pool dive to confirm integrity and operation. And I do these things in plenty of time to work out bugs, order whatever might be broken and get some help. And I carry spares, spare cables, batteries, tools etc. like a screw driver or my Swiss Army to turn that TTL trigger switch. This could be an expensive learning opportunity.

Off subject, triggers and all of that complexity are cool and offer many advantages but there is also much to be said for rigs that can trigger from a built in camera strobe. Simplicity, always works, bad cables will usually still trigger because the camera flash is so much brighter than an LED, no batteries to go dead, no contacts to corrode, no electrical cables to break, fray or disconnect. It just works, plain and simple.

I have never entered an UW photo contest and the last contest of any sort that I entered was black and white film contest of street and people shots. I entered what I shot and developed in the darkroom because that is all there was.

I think there should be two tiers of entries, manipulated/processed using the various software and AI and then the other being the jpeg straight from the camera with no editing or cropping allowed and verified against the RAW.

Edit to add, I never said nor inferred one superior to the other, only that there should be a level playing field with known rules, one could be the wild, wild west, anything goes, the other nothing allowed.

2 hours ago, Davide DB said:

My footage with a photographer flashing nearby looks like Baghdad in 1991!

I have several regular buddies who have not figured out how to shield their strobes 😵‍💫. Sometimes I can use them to good effect for additional lighting as here. But most of the time it is just annoying and lights up all the junk in the water 😀! Gotta love my buds because they put up with me!

There are many lovely women and handsome men (of which I am not) but frankly I do not find the human form underwater especially compelling. Here and there, yes, but mostly, I do not want divers in my pictures. Yes, divers can add a human interest element. I am mostly not interested in other humans, I seen them before, mostly too much ;).

I know I said same ocean buddy but I DO take into account my buddies skills as to exactly how far I will let them away from me and I do keep and eye on their location. Fortunately I am not a macro guy. I feel for the macro folks who need to take some time on a small critter.

All my buddies 🤗 :

My wife no longer dives. If I trusted the DM/Guide I would buddy her to them. And just keep an eye on her. Only if I trusted them.

Now, I tell anybody who buddies with me up front that I am into photos and am a same ocean buddy. If the group zooms along I stop wherever I want and find my way along on my own. Be it a drift or an out and back I usually wind up back with the group for pickup. Especially on a drift however, if they zoom off, I just shoot my own DSMB.

One of my dive friends is often the group leader and he is always asking me why am I way out there, or way back there, or way up there. My answer is to get away from all of y'all so I can have a photo with no fins sticking in. He does not like it for me to wander away and I do not care. Pretty self sufficient.

I like my Sony A-6400 in Nauticam. I use either the WWL plus a Sigma 19 or the kit lens behind the WWL. I also use the Sony 16mm pancake by itself, with the wide angle or the fisheye adapters inside the 4.33 dome. The WWL easily produces better image quality than the 16mm pancake but at the expense of only a 130 degrees FOV. The problem for me with the A-6XXX series of cameras is the 1/160 sync speed and the preflash that cannot be cancelled for manual only. Using the UWT trigger I can trick the camera into 1/200 sync speed and it works fine. It also has the booster battery or I can run onboard charging thus making it possible to shoot several days without opening the housing if need be.

Ebay and Amazon are full of inexpensive float arms. Most of them work quite well. Couple of things, unlike some float arms from the camera housing companies they have no internal connection between the end caps. They often leak, usually if they are going to it will be on the first few dives. When you begin to ascend, the arm becomes pressurized and blows the end cap off. Yes, this has happened, to me. I dumped the water out and glued it back together with epoxy adhesive and it is still in use.

I have a couple of sets of inexpensive float arms I have used on many dives over several years. One of my dive buddies had the same sort of arms and one of his flooded also but ti did not pop apart, just had water sloshing around inside and loss of some buoyancy. So, I guess it can be hit or miss.

For absolute reliability, aside from Nauticam or equal floats, the Stix floats on ULCS arms is possibly the best way to go.