hedonist222

Hi Phil, Thanks for your usual helpful and insightful responses. While I don't doubt the A7rv focus speed and accuracy (but unimpressed because my fifteen year old Canon is faster at aim and focus) I want manual focus for artistically curated compositions. The majority of my subjects are both miniscule and skittish which means I remain at the mercy of where the camera thinks that 2x2 mm spot is a good focus area, followed by me rapidly exhaling (and most times at the most inopportune point in the the rhythmic cycle) and swaying forwards and backwards to correct the plane of focus.

Thanks Chris. I'm finding that the smc-2 may me too close for my needs. Any suggestions for something in between the smc-1 & smc-2? I know you mention the cmc-1, alas that's a cropped sensor diopter.

It appears that I am able to combine an AF and MF focus scenario. The camera defaults to MF, however one of the custom buttons (or AF On button?) can be set to (temporary) AF when pressed. This helps if you simply need AF or if you want to swiftly focus using AF then, when button is released, you return to MF. Then use the DMF (direct manual focus) function to manually fine tune focus. My question is, and pardon if this is common knowledge (just moved over to Sony from a 15 year old Canon), can I use manually fine tune focus using buttons on the body? This can be done on an Olympus TG-6 (yes, realize it's a point and shoot). If I can manually fine fine using buttons, then I don't need a manual focus ring partfrom Nauticam. I am intentionally elaborating my responses with the aim of providing elaborate to other newcomers like me in the future.

Ah, makes sense. The pro is lens flexibility, the con is (two) added (potential) failure points. I'm not schooling you with this sentence. I'm adding it for the benefit of other readers who may not be aware of the con. I'm considering it. But must I set the lens to manual? Thus precluding me from using auto focus? If so, then deal breaker. I'll explain why. Sometimes the subject is so small that I want to say focus to the maximum nearest (the minimum focusing distance). Right now, without a manual focus ring, I zoom till it stops and hope that it stopped because it's determined that it's the closest focus. I'd like to be able to fine tune focusing.

Very helpful. Thank you. Thanks Wolfgang, but are you not apprehensive that using different size/dimension ports will affect the the image? I ask because my (highly elementary) understanding of ports is that the front element (glass) of the port must be at a certain distance from the front of the lens and a certain distance from the sensor itself (that knot circle with a strike though symbol on the camera body itself - indicating exactly where the sensor plane is located). Therefore manufacturers develop the ideal port for a particular lens. I am not saying your suggested combination is incorrect - I am asking how you are able to determine this with your combination.

Any video or photos on how a bayonet system works or is different from the clamp-on flip holder mount? I couldn't visualize the difference.

Hi Chip. Thanks! The 45 degree angled view finder looks nice, but $1,7500? I've just dropped a little over $11K but don't think seventeen hundred fifty is fair. Can live without. For now... 🙂 Not new to underwater photography. Currently using a Canon 5dmkii with a 100L lens in an Aquatica housing. I've been content with a single backscatter mf1. The Canon is from 2009. Decided to leap 15 years into the future with the Sony requisition. I'm familiar with the Aquatica ecosystem. Unfamiliar with the Nauticam ecosystem and hence this thread. I'm very very familiar with the SMC-1. And also enjoy using it very much, hence considering the smc-2 as I've reached the SMC-1 limit on a few occasions now. Thanks for the buoyancy tip. I have the exact setup on my 5dmkii & Aquatica. In addition to the mf1 with a floatation tube, I use a back scatter mw4300 video light with floatation. It's slightly negatively buoyant & that's my preference.

Hi everyone. I'm very familiar with the SMC-1 on a full frame sensor. Was considering the SMC-2, insane, I know. But I've reached the limits of the SMC-1 enough times and had wished I had the SMC-2 or similar. Someone who's owned both (SMC-2 and AOI UCL-900 PRO) said he preferred the AOI. He said the AOI is brighter and easier to use. He said they're both the same focal length (+23.5), however the AOI is easier to use and has better light. I'm leaning towards the SMC-2 because of how good, optically, the 1 is. Thoughts?

Thanks, Phil. The basic Nauticam led trigger is fine but only allows up to 1/200 flash sync. The Sony camera natively syncs up to 1/250 - and the Turtle or UW Technics triggers offer this (and for not much more than the nauticam price).

Considering a Nauticam housing for the Sony A7RV. What all would I need if I intend to use it for macro only. Assume I have the camera, 90mm Sony lens, SMC-1, and backscatter MF-1 flash and fiber optic cables. I also have arms, floats, and clamps from my full frame Canon Aquatica housing that I can use. I currently have listed: 1- Nauticam housing (NA-A7RV) 2- N100 macro port 105 3- M14 vacuum valve II 4- Turtle LED trigger (manual - no intention on using TTL - happy to be corrected or advised otherwise) 5- AOI Sea & Sea fiber optic connector - this came recommended by a seller - I don't understand the purpose If the Nauticam housing already has fiber optic cable ports and I have a fiber optic cable, then what purpose does this AOI connector serve? 6- M67 dual flip holder (for the SMC-1 and potentially the SMC-2 in the future) Have I missed anything required? Anything not necessary but nice to have? May as well consider these things now while I am placing the order and bracing for the pain that this will all cost... Thank you!

Hi Pietro We exchanged what's app messages the day before yesterday I was asking about the nauticam setup... Serendipity!

No, the A7rv and MF1 strobe can shoot up to 1/250. As confirmed by Phil below. I know this because I'm about to procure an LED trigger and deciding between the UW Technics and Turtle non-TTL model. Both can sync up to 1/250.

Nauticam has announced this black band with their trigger on a7rv at anything faster than 1/200. But you shouldn't have this with the turtle.

Is there a way to enable dark mode?

Hi Phil, I'd asked if CRI applies to strobes as well. Are all strobes equal from a CRI perspective?

Does CRI matter for the strobe output?

SMC-1

Very helpful. Thank you. Which new model view finder?

I thought the following photograph represents depth of field (or lack thereof). This was taken on a Canon 5D MKII using the Canon 100L macro lens with an attached SMC diopter at : 1/250 ISO 200 f/22 Even at f/22, DoF is so thin that the subject's left eye is OoF. The purpose of this thread is to illustrate the effects of aperture and DoF at such close ranges. I wonder if the diopter also affected DoF? Does anyone have any information or articles on this?

It's much easier and more accurate using a tablet. Also, your wrist will thank you.

I am comparing the Sony A7R V to the Sony A1. Wren shooting in macro, using the back scatter MF1 strobe, I always try to use the fastest shutter speed and this is always capped at 1/200 (Canon 5d mkii). The Sony A1 flash sync is 1/400. I'm trying to wrap my head around the concept. The benefit of 1/400 means I can use a greater shutter speed to eliminate blurriness - blurriness from me through poor stability and/or blurriness of fast moving subjects like a crustacean feeding itself or soft coral or polyps swaying from a current. Obviously this would mean I would need to compensate by raising ISO, widening aperture, or increasing flash output. After several years of using the DSLR, Canon 100L lens, and Backscatter MF1, I rarely go beyond 4 clicks (out of a total of 6 clicks). I am usually able to get good shots using: 1/200 Aperture between 18 and 25 ISO 100 or 150 MF1 between 3 and 4 Therefore, if I used 1/400, I'd need to increase flash output to 4 or 5. Another question, does increasing flash output (while increasing shutter speed) affect the photo? As in increased luminosity from upping power - or is that culled due to the higher shutter speed? Is the net outcome the same? I ask because I'm considering an upgrade to the A7R V but there's a relatively unused A1 that's about $1,100 more. This will be my second and last major diving-hobby photography great procurement. 🙂 Thank you.

Hi Tim! Every grateful for all the help you've provided over the years on the forums and to me on WP.

Long time member of scuba board and wet pixels. Been diving since 2006 when I was 24. Those two years really flew by. Used everything from Go Pros to point and shoots to FF DSLRs. Currently settled on the TG6 and a 2009 Canon 5DMK II in an Aquatica housing. I prefer macro because I'm a muck afficionado - ironically though, completely indifferent to nudibranchii. I need to actually point this out to dive guides when traveling. The puzzled looks I get from the guide and divers in Anilao & Lembeh give me a chuckle. My lusts are cephalopods, crustaceans, and anything pygmy. Considering a move to the Sony A7R V.