hedonist222

Hi Jens, What did you end up doing?

You'll need to perfect maneuvering the strobes at distance. You'll be further away for many pictures.

One must turn on wireless flash in the camera settings in order to use HSS with a Backscatter MF-2. Sample: ISO 200, 1/500, f/6.3

May I kindly ask that you elaborate, Chris. Thanks to everyone for contributing on this thread. I will be back with more specific queries 🙂

Hello everyone. Let's say I have an SMC-1 and a Sony 90mm. Can the diopter work at all lens focus ranges? Or does the diopter begin to work (come into focus) at the 1:1 focus range of the lens? Thank you.

Willing to sell the camera body separately?

I am trying to figure out how to turn on HSS in the MF-2 and Sony A7Rv.

So using a Sony A7RV and S-turtle 2 trigger, how do I set it up in HSS mode? Balazs said no need to setup software. But there is a B.Scatter MF-2 option that I cannot select for some reason.

Figured it out via @Barmaglot I was setting up the flash wrongly. Strangely, I've never done this in 3 years of owning it. I did the initial setup with more than a single test fire that day. Here is a snippet from back scatter explaining this: https://youtu.be/-xxarKWIRm4?t=15m8s

What's the fastest shutter speed for the strobe and a Sony A7Rv in HSS mode? Thank you.

Yes, took the test shot. Nothing happens. Well, flash only on second shot. Contacted Balaz, for manual mode, nothing to setup on the trigger. Tried another flash from Sea and Sea, works workout issue. Yes, this cable worked a few days ago with the same strobe and trigger. It is on single shooting mode, not burst. But how does that mess up the strobe?

Hi Chris. What settings do you reckon I should change? I cannot think of any. Flash mode is in fill-in. The S-TURTLE is in manual mode. Thy MF-1 doesn't have any settings to change. It turns on, then there's the flash strength dial. There's no TTL or smart mode on the MF-1.

Hello everyone Sony a7rv Backscatter mf-1 S-TURTLE TTL trigger Flash on camera set to fill-in mode The flash doesn't go off on first shot It only goes off if I do two quick consecutive shots and only on the second shot Ideas? Thank you

Thanks, Giancarlo.

Sharing the response I got from (barmaglot) another forum: The rear element should be as close to the lens front element as possible. These diopters are made with a protruding rear element in order to compensate for the thickness of an adapter (flip, magnetic, etc) when mounted on such, so that the rear element of the diopter gets as close as possible to the port glass. If you're mounting the diopter directly on the port, without an adapter in the way, then you use the spacer ring, or the rear element of the diopter will bump into the port glass and potentially prevent the threads from engaging.

Hello everyone I notice that some diopter lenses come with an accessory or adapter ring. What is this for? I notice it's available with the SMC-1 and AIO 90Pro. It appears to alter the distance between the diopter and the macro port glass element. I've attached four pictures. First two are with the adapter (notice protruding lens). Latter two are without. In this setup, the diopter lens sits flush with the diopter holder. So the question, I guess, is, what distance should the diopter be from the macro port glass element?

Sidem, while perpetually crowded, is always nice.

Go away, Chris. Don't do this to me haha. 😵‍💫😥😁

What's focus breathing? Is it that Breathing Compensation? I thought that feature is only available in video mode.

Hi Wolfgang, Is your Aperture Drive in AF still in standard as per Alex? I ask because Priority Focus mode retains the aperture mechanism in full-open yielding more light and thus faster and more accurate focus. If your concern is being able to visualize real-time DoF, then you can assign one of the custom buttons to trigger DoF preview (akin to SLRs/DSLRs of yesteryear). This is how I have my Sony a7rv set up.

Hi Phil, Thanks for your usual helpful and insightful responses. While I don't doubt the A7rv focus speed and accuracy (but unimpressed because my fifteen year old Canon is faster at aim and focus) I want manual focus for artistically curated compositions. The majority of my subjects are both miniscule and skittish which means I remain at the mercy of where the camera thinks that 2x2 mm spot is a good focus area, followed by me rapidly exhaling (and most times at the most inopportune point in the the rhythmic cycle) and swaying forwards and backwards to correct the plane of focus.

Thanks Chris. I'm finding that the smc-2 may me too close for my needs. Any suggestions for something in between the smc-1 & smc-2? I know you mention the cmc-1, alas that's a cropped sensor diopter.

It appears that I am able to combine an AF and MF focus scenario. The camera defaults to MF, however one of the custom buttons (or AF On button?) can be set to (temporary) AF when pressed. This helps if you simply need AF or if you want to swiftly focus using AF then, when button is released, you return to MF. Then use the DMF (direct manual focus) function to manually fine tune focus. My question is, and pardon if this is common knowledge (just moved over to Sony from a 15 year old Canon), can I use manually fine tune focus using buttons on the body? This can be done on an Olympus TG-6 (yes, realize it's a point and shoot). If I can manually fine fine using buttons, then I don't need a manual focus ring partfrom Nauticam. I am intentionally elaborating my responses with the aim of providing elaborate to other newcomers like me in the future.

Ah, makes sense. The pro is lens flexibility, the con is (two) added (potential) failure points. I'm not schooling you with this sentence. I'm adding it for the benefit of other readers who may not be aware of the con. I'm considering it. But must I set the lens to manual? Thus precluding me from using auto focus? If so, then deal breaker. I'll explain why. Sometimes the subject is so small that I want to say focus to the maximum nearest (the minimum focusing distance). Right now, without a manual focus ring, I zoom till it stops and hope that it stopped because it's determined that it's the closest focus. I'd like to be able to fine tune focusing.

Very helpful. Thank you. Thanks Wolfgang, but are you not apprehensive that using different size/dimension ports will affect the the image? I ask because my (highly elementary) understanding of ports is that the front element (glass) of the port must be at a certain distance from the front of the lens and a certain distance from the sensor itself (that knot circle with a strike though symbol on the camera body itself - indicating exactly where the sensor plane is located). Therefore manufacturers develop the ideal port for a particular lens. I am not saying your suggested combination is incorrect - I am asking how you are able to determine this with your combination.