Chris Ross

I must say I'm liking the fact all our dive sites are sandstone based, much less likely to damage you, though they have their fair share of "if it's black you're on your back" areas. Carrying a camera certainly does up the ante in making sure the entry is not too rough. Standard procedure on exit here is to crawl out till you are beyond the reach of any swell coming in, wouldn't fancy doing that on lava even with kevlar knees in my suits.

The other question to ask is if the firmware is up to date? - you may be missing some updates which are related to the overheating issue.

The thing that allows higher currents in batteries is the internal resistance of the battery itself, the black eneloops have lower internal resistance which is the reason they charge faster.

I came across some articles about counterfeit eneloops such as this one: BaltradeWe are testing cheap batteries signed with the Eneloop lo...Recently, our customers and readers have been receiving disturbing information that Panasonic Eneloop rechargeable batteries of dubious quality have appeared on the market. After analyzing the info... It's a possibility these are circulating and worth checking your batteries. I checked my white and black eneloops and found they both had the rough porous looking material on the -ve terminal that is mentioned in the link. I should mention I have not noticed a noticeable difference between the black and white eneloops from just using them, they should perform similarly and the difference detected would need to some additional effort like logging numbers of shots taken and potentially discharge testing to be able to pick if you are getting more shots from one vs the other.

Hi everyone, I came across this post on Instagram from a Lynne Tuck who is a regular diving at my local site called The Steps at Kurnell (Sydney Australia). Be nice if the pace was a little slower but you get the idea of what it takes to get to the water. This is my most dived local site with a great variety of critters many unique to this area. I must have done around 200 dives on this site. This is temperate water site - 7mm wetsuit in the warmer months for me and a drysuit in winter where the water drops to the 13-14° range. The car park is around 25m above sea level. Nearby is the leap where the descent is closer to 30m elevation and you drift on the incoming tide to exit at this site after about a 250m drift. https://www.instagram.com/reel/DLzqoY-o4aZ/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== Thought it would be fun to post a reply to this thread with pics or videos that shows how you access your local tough site. We can get an idea of what your local diving is like.

It can be hard to tell if you re 1:1 and a regular DSLR type lens you can wind it out there and then move in on the subject knowing you re at max magnification. With AF it can be fiddly to get there as i=you could drift inside min focus. Not all mirrorless lenses work this - the Olympus 60mm macro focus just keeps turning with no stop at minimum and it's also slow to change focus. It depends on which particular macro lens you are using. Some camera systems have full time manual focus in AF which would be ideal, switching back and forth between MF and AF.

The mA-hr rating is only part of the picture, the main reason they are recommended as I recall is the low internal resistance, which means two things, first they push out the charge very quickly and secondly it minimises heat build up. I suspect the battery mentioned above that got hot would not perform as well as this indicates internal resistance is higher. I use both the regular white eneloops and the eneloop pro. Particularly for local diving I find the regular eneloops are perfectly fine as I'll often just do a single dive taking 100 or so shots. I generally use the eneloop pros when on a trip though, doing 3-4 dives daily with 100+ shots per dive. The white eneloops I use in my land flashes a lot where changing them out is not a big deal.

Mine tends not to be a camera problem, I tend to be a lazy photographer sometimes.

True but there I still come across people who think it's a backup. I don't work in IT but know enough about it to get in trouble regularly. 🤣 I know backups well enough, still doesn't mean i do them as often as I should unfortunately.🤔 The most basic rule is don't format your card till the stuff you have downloaded from it has been backed up. I'm going to need to expand my storage soon the 4TB main drive and backup are starting to get full.

I gave up on using RAID a long time back as I worked out it's not really a backup, it's just a means to have the storage stay on line is a physical disk in the array fails and it's quite possible the hardware can fail and take out the whole array. It always seemed problematic to add more storage as well - quite likely I didn't know what I was doing, but it always seemed like another flaming hoop to jump through. I use duplicated large capacity drives these days. I also found coming back to an old HDD that I had not used for a number of years was a problem. I had 3 smaller disks in a RAID5 array stored in their original packaging and when I came back to them after a number of years to see if they worked before either disposing or recycling them I found I couldn't format 2 out of the 3. They worked just fine when I transferred their files to single big drive years previously. My percentage clean up is a bit more than yours though for most dives, I seem to make a lot of bad shots!🤣

Your problem is the strobes don't know what the camera is doing, so if you have manual strobes the exposure is only correct at one ISO, but if the camera changes that the strobes still fire the same burst if they are on manual. Seems like a recipe for frustration. sTTL may have a chance to work as the camera will vary the flash output to adjust exposure. The issue is going to be how well the camera interprets the UW scene and what it tries to do with it, so you are likely to need flash exposure compensation as well which may or may not be quick to get to and adjust. Put it another way if sTTL works for you with fixed ISO it should also work with variable ISO, within a small range. If the ISO moves too much you might run into problems and need to move SS or aperture to deal with it. The other issue is going to be that at least for daylight reef photos you are often pushing up against your sync limit and it won't take much to reach it so the the range the ISO can move is probably boxed right in. So might as well use fixed ISO. For macro with black or dark backgrounds the auto ISO is going to try to make that neutral grey so I can't see auto ISO working that well, again depending on how well your camera's TTL reads a scene like that.

On the why I expect it's to reduce the number of different housings they make, they have been trimming their port charts from discontinued lenses and dropping various adapters and ports as well. Possibly offering 3 different port systems (4 if you count the compacts) might be taking its toll. You could also look to other vendors, Isotta is about $2k cheaper for the housing for example.

You could also carve a whole float collar out of such material if you have the dimensions, just do the volume calculations if you know the foam density. It would need a steady hand with a hot wire cutter to make it neat though. Mozaik still list the buoyancy collar for WWL-1 for $92CAD and they ship out of Vancouver. You could also check them for the Stix collar. they seem to have a coupon code for 12% off - no tariffs. If you used the Nauticam buoyancy collar and assuming you are shooting stills not video you could take that weight into account with float arms

Most mirrorless FF cameras have some version of this as an option, you still however have to pay $$ extra for the housing and camera and need to check the fine print on how it does video in such a situation. If it's playing intermittently could be an issue with the RF-EF adapter or some sort of contact issue.

Perhaps, but first you have to find one and keep it alive. T here's no substituent for a proper AF fisheye IMO and a fisheye zoom is just so versatile, which is why people are mucking around with using Sony 2x on on an adapted Canon 8-15. With the Canon 8-15 being discontinued it means that even if it's replaced by an RF version it only helps CANON RF users and won't be adaptable to Sony. Nikon still seems to be making their 8-15 for now though.

I have been looking around at various foam options to make a float for my rig, a lot of places have the foam used for insulation under house slabs which is specified as high density and low water absorption and densities in the range of 30-33kg/m3. This means it has a buoyancy of about 970 kg/m3 or 0.97 gr/cm3. According to the page for the original WWL-1 float collar the lens is 160 gr negative UW with the collar. so it would need about 160/0.97 = 165 cm3 of 30kg/m3 foam. This is a cube about 5.5 cm or 2.1" on a side. If you can source some of this foam you could carve out a piece in the shape of an arc matched to the OD of float collar about 20cm long x 4cm wide and 2 cm thick and glue/screw it to the float collar you already have. With a bit of searching you could probably find a piece of the foam at an art supply place - it's used for sculpture, you would look for XPS foam with a density of 30-35 kg/m3.

I don't trim down by that much, but I'll throw all the obviously out of focus stuff, missed subject, accidental triggers etc and keep what's sharp and half-way well composed as Raw files and keep them in site specific folders. I'll also throw duplicates if I have lots of near identical shots. Process the selects to tiffs and jpegs to master folders . Eventually they make their way to my website where they are subject or trip organized. Nothing particularly scientific, but it keeps the storage requirements reasonable. My images library probably takes up about 2.5-3 TB in various folders. I have 4TB SSD storage drive and a conventional 4TB backup in an enclosure. It enough to keep 30+ years of images. I lost some scanned images quite a few years back during the process of upgrading PCs as far as I can tell, but the last 25-30 years worth of images are still there. My thoughts are that is the storage requirements are reasonable and it's organised enough to find an image with just a few minutes searching this is enough.

As far as I know just turn it on before closing the housing. I've seen people report the battery lasts a very long time. That's a very well used looking R5 though, my old 1DMkIV looks in way better nick.

Didn't realise it's discontinued. Doesn't bode well for UW photographers. Even if Canon bring out an RF version it won't be readily adaptable to other systems like the EF version.

Well that solved an issue for me, I have an Atomos shinobi I use on land for macro focus stacking and diving deep into the menus to set HDMI output to match the monitor means it now switches instantly to display an image and connects up way faster. Now if only I could stop the camera switching off focus bracketing when a monitor is plugged in!

Depth of field with just a lens at constant aperture varies directly with magnification. So if you frame up the subject the same way with the same size in frame depth of field on the subject will be the same or very close when just using a lens without domes and virtual images. As you get closer and the subject gets larger the the depth of field goes down. You can frame it with a longer focal length from further away or up close with a wide angle - if the subject size is the same the depth of field remains pretty much the same. Behind a dome the depth of field goes up as the min focus to infinity image is compressed into 3 dome radii. Of course the dome needs to be positioned properly if the lens is too far inside the dome you lose some of the in focus range as it's inside the port. Now if you compare the 8-15 with 2x behind a dome and the FCP, the zoom range is near identical just slightly more reach for the long end on the FCP and both focus on the dome so they can achieve the same subject size. In this situation the FCP has less depth of field than the 8-15. It only makes sense to compare DOF at the same magnification, a bigger subject size in frame means the depth of field will be less. As to why the FCP has less depth of field I don't know, perhaps the virtual image is not as compressed and you lose the DOF advantage you have with a lens behind a dome? The way the background appears does vary with focal length so taking an image right up close with something like a 24mm lens then taking the same image with a 500mm lens (on land) you will see a dramatic difference in the bokeh or background blur, but in UW photography you don't get into such extremes

Massimo tested the Nauticam CMC lenses and INON lenses a while back and produced a video which would be on his site. He shows photos of a ruler at max magnification so you could back calculate the power. Here it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJ_zYSw9o94

Presumably this is a Nauticam flash trigger which would be manual only. So set the camera to manual plug it into the hotshoe and turn the trigger on, fire a test shot and check the LEDs flash. The camera shouldn't even know it's there. Once you have it flashing you should be able to install it in the housing and attach your optic fibre cables and fire away. If it's another brand you might need to do something else, but if you confirm it's Nauticam this is how it should work.

It wasn't expressed well, but I was specifically referring to the FCP which is what an 8-15 with 2x emulates. Reports are that the FCP seem to have more limited DOF. I can't comment on the specifics of depth of field of the WWL/WACP, though I suspect they have similar lens designs to the FCP. In general depth of field after you've accounted for aperture is related solely to magnification. The image scale at the wide means depth of field is generally pretty good and being behind a dome the depth of field is compressed into the virtual image which extends from touching the dome to about 3 dome radii. On a 140mm dome that's about the edge of the dome to about 210mm away. The lens also only knows about the virtual image as that is what it images. So the end result is that depth of field is higher than shooting the same scene without a dome. The FCP though seems to be doing something different possibly making a much bigger virtual image or something similar as the examples showed in the thread back when it was released certainly seemed to have less DOF than you would expect.

I think it was explained above that the idea behind it was for a low powered wet lens to give about 1.2x magnification and I expect it is probably a decent improvement over the +3 lenses previously available. Alex Mustard is the one who made this point - saying there are lots of subjects that could benefit from a small increase in magnification. While opportunities to use a 2x + lens are more limited. Of course this could vary depending on where you are diving. The MFO is certainly not an alternative to the SMC-1 lens.