hellhole

really??.. worked for me... but i will continue to monitor.. thanks

a friend email them on the 6000mAh nitecore batt very early on .... and they did reply that they will check out on it... i guess the results are positive... i think its okay to write an email to them to asked about the battery in question...perhaps they will check it out... if they can get their hands on it...

maybe in the future.. i only need to say what i saw and the AI will make the short video for me 🙂

hey nice people... has anyone got hss working on a non-olympus system?

I prefer the xtar ones . They are type c. The previous nitecore ones i got were not type c. Plus... the xtar ones are able to do a lot more imo verses the nitecore ones i got. Battery real capacity test, storage function, etc Maybe the new nitecore ones does that now...

Nitecore are not type c

When will the sony circuits be out?

HA HA HA self remove.. not part of topic.. i think all the strobes are good... buy as big as you can afford...

anyone has update on shipping? 🙂

thanks for pictures!

how about the laowa 10mm? is it different extension port will not need to remove the shade?

i seen quite a few post from phil on using the laowa 10mm that the shade has to come off... i never said any thing about vignettes. it probably maybe the wrong extension port used... but it seems like that to me.

but u have live without a shade with a 140mm dome... most of the time... i guess it a choice...

i think we have to start a thread .. " i can't afford a WACP... what is the next best thing" then list out all the 230/180/140 dome and what you will expect from it... with the respective lens... hahaha

i think its hard to beat the nauticam optics ...

i think nauticam knows what they are doing.. if you look at the port chart... they clearly indicate the blue words and a * the 'Recommended Nauticam underwater optics based on best underwater optical performance' with the WACP2 set up. The other "blue words" set ups probably will also give you good optics but you have to remove the shade , which they shared. the black * recommended "Recommended Port System" is the 230mm port option. i think that means it will work best if you don't want to go the WACP path. its good.. but not as good as the WACP as no one has a WACP to show that there is no vig or any blurry at the edge. neither has a 40mm to show that 230mm will also not have that blurry edge. i look at all the info so far... tell me nauticam is right... 🙂 till proven not so ... show me that a 14mm sony with 30mm/40mm with 230 dome is not as good as a 16-35mm with 230mm dome. this two being the "recommended port system' not the best optics.. but recommended... i would think will be the similar... sharp in the middle.. blurry at the edge... but.. the 14mm is wider...so.... 🙂

oookay 🙂

so... u are saying... if you want to use the 14mm sony with the 180mm dome. its better to use it with a 30mm port and crop rather than the recommend 20mm port.. but... it probably not worth it to do all that and just use at 16mm instead with a 180mm port or! get a 230mm dome.. and all is well...

soak in some slight warm water.. another pair of hands.. and strap wrench...

why would you want to do that? is it because you do not have a 20mm port?

i am not sure what material u are using. but certainly PLA can be easily 'file' down. but its looks good... i am going to try to print some today!!

Brinf some blutak incase it does not fit well when there ia current

hm..okay.. i will try that out.. maybe i have been using it all wrong!!

i want to make sure i got this right. are you saying... u are in MF... u get pretty close to focus on the subject but just not sharp... at that moment u switch to AF. the same image is there.. u half press the trigger and the camera will auto focus? that is on a A7RV? i am on a A7RIV... interesting.. i think i got to go try it out on the A7RV...