Gudge

PM sent. I don't have a zoom ring for the 28-60.

When installed there are two things that are installed: It is installed as a filter accessible from the Filter menu that that just processes backscatter on the active layer There is an action which makes a copy of the active layer with a mask which is processed for backscatter and adds another layer called Cleanup which you can use to cleanup the bits that it misses Using the action is the best way to use it.

Another advantage is the longer the focal length the better the bokeh for the same aperture and magnification: I regularly use the Sigma 150 macro underwater and the bokeh with these images is much nicer than i was ever able to obtain when using either the Canon 100 macro or Sony 90 macro. Downsides are that the 150 is heavier and and focus speed is slower than both of these lenses.

Looking at my images taken with the 1.4X teleconverter/Canon 8-15 combination, 72% were taken with the focal length at 15mm and 20% with the focal length at at just over 11mm (vignetting with my combination starts at 11.2mm). My main focus was CFWA on smaller subjects so the lens was used at the maximum focal length of 15mm to achieve the greatest magnification and a look that was as different as possible to that achieved with the 8-15 used without the 1.4X teleconverter. After getting a Nauticam EMWL, I now use this exclusively for CFWA and have stopped using the 8-15 on teleconverter for CFWA. If I'm using the 8-15 by itself and need the extra focal length I just switch my A7RIV into DX mode to give me a usable effective focal range of 15-22.5mm without vignetting and a respectable 26MP image size.

Which 1.4X teleconverter, camera/housing and extension ring size are you using? I have a design that works well with the Sony 1.4X teleconverter and Canon 8-15 and Metabones adapter. The Sony 1.4X teleconverter is shorter than Kenko 1.4X teleconverter, it's easy to modify the design for the difference in lengths and to accommodate the particular housing you are using.

Sold!

Sold

Sold.

Includes: Nauticam NA-7DMkII housing with M16 vacuum valve Canon EOS 7DMKII with total of 31,751 shutter actuations (rated life is 200,000 actuations) Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8-4 DC Macro OS HSM Lens with zoom gear Nauticam to Subal Type3 Adapter Subal DP-FE2 8 inch/200mm optical glass dome port with Subal Type 3 mount Subal 33mm Type 3 extension ring for use with Sigma 17-70mm Lens Subal 20mm Type 3 extension ring for use with Canon 8-15 fisheye or Tokina 10-17 fisheye Spare batteries, chargers, CF memory cards and card reader Canon Wi-Fi Adapter W-E1 (not pictured) Nauticam vacuum pump (not pictured) Spare housing and extension ring O rings and O ring grease (not pictured) Asking AU$2,500 (US$1,650) plus shipping.

Asking AU$205 (US$135) plus shipping.' '

Asking AU$190 (US$125) plus shipping.

Asking AU$250 (US$165) plus shipping. If you are going to use this with the Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM lens I'll throw in the Nauticam focus gear for this lens free.

My wife uses the S-turtle Smart TTL Trigger (ie not the Mobie) with her Sony A6600 in a Nauticam housing. There's plenty of room for this trigger so there was no need to pursue the Mobie option.

If you're travelling with an iPhone/iPad the Apple LIghtning to USB 3 Camera Adapter allows you to move files from your camera to your iPad/iPhone a number of ways: If you use it unpowered and connect your camera to your phone it will automatically download your photos to the Photos app. This has a few problems as you have no control over what folder they end up in and your device will try and upload them to the cloud. If you power it up with a USB power adapter you have much more flexibility. You can use USB peripherals with your iPad/iPhone. Photos can be downloaded to your device using the Files app which allows you to put them in a folder of your choice and images won't automatically be uploaded to the cloud. Option 2 is the way I use it: I either connect a card reader or my camera to download my photos onto my iPhone/iPad If I want to backup to a second location or don't want to leave the images on my iPhone/iPad I will then connect a USB storage device and copy/move the images on to that. I've successfully used USB memory sticks, Samsung T7 portable SSD drives and WD My Passport drives for this purpose You can also review your images on either your iPhone/iPad or external storage device using the Files app. How fast is data transfer using this method? The adapter itself has USB 3 speed but transfer will be slower if you use USB 2 devices. I'm able to download a days shooting from my camera and then upload it again to my Samsung T7 (both of which have USB 3 connections) in about 10 minutes. A lot that time is spent navigating to the relevant folders and selecting the files to be transferred, the actual transfer time is only a few minutes. I did a test from my Samsung T7 to my iPhone 12 mini, it took about 1 minute to transfer 1.2GB of photos.

Where's the fun in that! 😀. Much more interesting and challenging to make one gear that covers both situations.

PM sent.

Because it is reversible I had to make this in two parts. What you can't see in the picture is the barrel extending down past the gear a few mm. The gear is held onto a flange on the barrel by the vertical bolts. Not an issue with this design. The zoom collar on the lens only moves through about 90º, I just have to make sure that when the zoom gear is attached to the lens that the gap is opposite the gear in the housing to ensure the two will never meet.

Here's a couple more N120 examples; Canon 8-15 on the left and Sigma 17-70 macro on the right. The 8-15 zoom gear has two tightening screws because it is reversible so I can use it for the 8-15 with and without teleconverter. The rubber ring on the 8-15 is narrow and one central tightening screw doesn't work well with either configuration. I use one screw when shooting th 8-15 by itself, and the other screw with the 8-15 pluse teleconverter when the zoom ring is fitted in reverse.

I use a one part solution with a split. It's easy to fit on the lens and can be tightened up to prevent any slippage in use by using the captive nut and screw. Here's a couple of examples; N120 for Sigma 150 macro on the left and N100 for Sony 90. macro on the right:

Here's a Retra LSD that's been converted to have an iris disphragm: https://www.carousell.ph/p/retra-lsd-mia-snoot-with-manual-iris-aperture-1259838460/

I've been using one that is 2m long for years for this type of thing. I've never felt the need for anything longer.

95mm from the flange connection on the camera body to the end of the lens.

I've tried this with my Sony A7RIV and it works great in DX but there is vignetting in FF mode. First image is with my camera in FF mode, vignetting is most obvious in the bottom corners but is there in the top corners as well. Second is in DX mode and shows no vignetting.

By listing I'm assuming you mean camera settings, lens etc. Camera setup used was Sony A7RIV with Sony 90 macro in Nauticam housing, Nauticam EMWL with 160º objective lens and 2 x Retra Pro strobes. Settings used were: Shrimp on Nudibranch - f20, 1/60 and ISO 400 Coconut octopus - f16, 1/640 and ISO 400. I used high speed sync and backwards lighting to create the black background.

I can't decide which is my favourite from these two taken during my trip to Lembeh in July. Both taken with the Nauticam EMWL with 160º objective lens.