humu9679

Super clips there! I watched the first third, and look forward to watching the rest. Nicely color balanced, framed, focused and captured. I thought there was a mismatch with the tempo of the music and images in the beginning. I’ll weigh in more later. Thanks for posting that.

The bumpers are cool. Diffusers are different colors. There’s a crease in the background. Strobes have their asses cut off.

I don’t think they’re terribly useful for most still photos, but they’re absolutely necessary in bright conditions for video. I’m sure there are creative ways to use them underwater, but my brain is limited at the moment. I would think HSS is another way to get the effect you’re after. There are variable ND filters, which can cut from 2-5 stops, for example. Better still would be a camera with built-in NDs.

Looks great @Dave_Hicks

Aloha and welcome @Scubatoth

Excellent work @JohnN

@PeterN That's great stuff! I was there a couple years ago. Wonderful diving. Did you encounter a lot of green water? Also, did you filter your lights at all?

@Kiliii Yuyan well done sir!

Aloha and welcome Wahrmut!

Some really nice clips there Kolin. Some of the macro stuff is as good as anything out there!

Cheers Kolin! Aloha and welcome.

I would go with standard matte prints matted and framed with non-glare glass frames. If you have money to spare, dual mats are the look I’d go for, and my preference would be for uniform sizes, like 11x14 or 16x20. If the space warrants a different look, consider frameless prints. Start with a calibrated monitor, and print yourself or send your files to a commercial lab / photo printing service. Send files for test printing rather than ordering at one time, as you may not like the results.

I agree with @John Liddiard Add strobes to your TG system, and you’ll see a big difference in your images. You can also shoot video. It’s a very popular system for a reason, and best for fish portraits and macro. You can also add a wet wide angle lens, even the Nauticam WWL-1. You might start with an “air” lens to reclaim the ability to shoot 25mm (which is narrowed underwater without it, and almost equivalent to your Sigma 16mm, mentioned above). This will also allow you to retain the excellent close focusing capabilities of the native camera. Ultimately the decision will be yours, and many of us clearly have our own opinions about what works. Also, several of us have ventured down various photographic rabbit holes and lived to tell the tale - with much smaller bank accounts - which informs our opinions.

Hello Tailwind_marseille. My opinion: primes are fine, but you might reconsider the Sigma 16mm for APS-c. It’s a great topside lens, but you’ll find the angle of view underwater less than ideal for most subjects. Zooms really do add flexibility and using the 16-35mm means that you’re heading down the full-frame rabbit hole which means bigger lenses and more expensive housings. Consider using a kit lens, which tend to be smaller, and add wet wide angle and close-up lenses. This will cover most everything underwater - maybe not as well as dedicated lenses and ports - but it will create a portable kit and you can use it for years. If you find you like fish portraits and nudibranchs, then a dedicated macro is the way to go. Good luck! Craig

That kit is not for the faint of heart!