jlaity

I think this has been discussed before but I couldn’t find it, maybe it was on the other site. I just got a Canon RF 100mm macro, and I couldn’t remember if image stabilization was recommended for underwater macro stills?

I've been to resorts that insist on a "check out dive" without a camera to make sure you aren't a complete disaster in the water, at least the first time we visited. And other resorts that banned gloves and touching. I believe this law is mainly aimed at brand new divers who need to take their selfie stick on their first dive for their TikTok or whatever. But it's subject to interpretation by the resort and divemasters who may bend it to fit their own agenda.

On my Nauticam systems, I've only ever seen red/blue when I first turn it on for low battery. Loss of vacuum is flashing yellow and then flashing red, which I see every time I open my camera after a dive. I used to think this was a bad design, but realized it's pretty cool that I test the system every time I finish using it. I'd still like an alarm reset button near the inside of the port so I don't need to open the back of the housing to reset the warning. Although now that I think about it, I suppose that's another point of failure. If there's a leak near the port, maybe that reset button would short and turn off the alarm.

I was in the middle of posted a question about the battery when you replied. Red/blue flashing is low battery in my experience on Nauticam. Drops of water in the housing usually means time to thoroughly clean my O-rings. Take them out, run them through a damp paper towel to clean the sand and grit. Then carefully relube and reinstall.

I’ve thought about these as a backup or primary. Has anyone found a miniflash that emulates Canon for rear curtain tricks? The Nauticam TTL is like $350 for something that looks a lot like a $5 Tmall flash.

This was in Brave, which is Chrome with privacy added in.

I just tried pasting from Word on Mac and it tries to attach the text as an image. Weird. The workaround is to right click, "Paste and match style."

Nauticam Macro Port 87 for N120-size housings. The outside of the port is in good condition, the glass and inside I would rate as excellent. No noticeable scratches on the glass. Cold shoe and filter thread both work well, a flip adapter fits well (but is not included.) Check the Nauticam website for lens compatibility. Includes installed and backup O-ring. $225 plus shipping to USA, no international shipping.

SOLD

I was chatting with someone about buying something on Classifieds. I received payment, and am planning to ship it on Monday, but the messages thread just disappeared off the site. Can a mod PM me or look into this? I'd like to know why the thread disappeared to feel better about shipping the item.

Payment in process

I thought you had a WWL1 already?

Inon Z-240 version but fits Z-330. And rear section can be replaced to fit other strobes.

SOLD

$1050 for the housing, camera no longer available.

$1250 for the housing plus shipping $2000 for the housing + camera body plus shipping

Almost got taken by a Paypal scam I haven't seen before. It was through Craigslist not here but worth warning about. - Buyer wants to buy my underwater housing and camera. (They don't haggle which is a red flag.) - I get their address and send them a Paypal invoice. - They send me a screenshot showing they tried to send me money but 'the buyer isn't set up to receive funds.' - I log into Paypal, there is a notification on my account but I confirm with customer service that my account is OK. I ask them to try again. - I get a Paypal email saying you've got a deposit. At the LAST SECOND I notice a typo in the email, "Reply us with tracking number" so I don't click anything in the email and open PayPal from a new browser window. There is no money in there. Here's the twist, the link in the email was to "https://www.paypal.com/" but with a TON of javascript after that. I think the key is the part where they say it didn't go through, which makes you log into Paypal. The link in the email opens Paypal (where you're already logged in) and probably transfers money to some account so quickly that you don't notice until it's over. And by this point you've been expecting the Paypal email so you click it (spear fishing hack.)

$1850 plus shipping

$2450 for the housing (Why can't I edit the original post?)

Great condition housing for Canon 5D mark 4, including the camera body if you're interested. The best housing made for this camera, the Nauticam NA-5DIV has buttons right under your fingertips to access nearly every function. They have all of the best ports, including water-contact optics you can't find anywhere else. This is the last Canon with an optical viewfinder, which many prefer over electronic viewfinders for better dynamic range. It's compatible with Nauticam and other brands of 45 and 90-degree magnifying viewfinders, not included. Also included is a vacuum seal and alarm (mark 1) which holds a vacuum (with optional ports), works great, and gives excellent piece of mind before a dive. The housing is in great shape, has never flooded, and has been treated with care and maintenance throughout its life. Also included with the housing are: Nauticam Vacuum pump (brand new, never used) Wrench and M16 plug for removing/replacing vacuum port Spare CR2032 battery for vacuum/moisture alarm Spare body O-ring, never used Nauticam-supplied stainless steel metric allen wrench set Original Manual and microfiber polishing cloth Not included are any ports, strobes, strobe triggers, etc. Only what you see here. Also available is a Canon 5D mark IV body for a plug-and-play solution. Includes spare batteries, a charger, and 64GB and 32GB CF cards. $2750 for the housing, add $850 for the camera body. Domestic shipping available. Reach out with any questions. Thanks, -- Jeff Camera body sold separately, see above

I love my SMC-1. I found it sharper with nicer bokeh than the Subsea +5. Almost all my macro photos are taken with the Canon 100mm EF (non-L) and SMC-1 except for black water.

Yes, that happened to me on my last trip. “Something is wrong, one strobe is much weaker than the other.” I think I did several dives before someone pointed out the problem.

I recently upgraded from 240 to 330 and it's a big power difference. I shot the Z220 then Z240 for years so I had to adjust to the higher power of the Z330. For a while I had one Z220 and one Z240 and that was confusing as hell. The power switch was reversed and I couldn't keep straight which was clockwise versus counterclockwise to change power without looking. Also the power switch was all the way to the right for manual on one, but on the other it was MAX POWER and the power knob does nothing. Why why WHY does this setting exist, Inon? I've had the switch bumped underwater on kelp or whatever and I can't figure out why my photos are so overexposed. Then of course they changed the switches again for the Z330. So speaking from personal experience, having two different Inon strobes underwater is confusing AF.

I have one for a Canon 17-40L wide zoom. I’ve noticed better corner sharpness when using it. However I rarely shoot that lens, usually grabbing the fisheye instead. (Still using Sigma 15mm.)