jlaity

SOLD

I was chatting with someone about buying something on Classifieds. I received payment, and am planning to ship it on Monday, but the messages thread just disappeared off the site. Can a mod PM me or look into this? I'd like to know why the thread disappeared to feel better about shipping the item.

Payment in process

I thought you had a WWL1 already?

Inon Z-240 version but fits Z-330. And rear section can be replaced to fit other strobes.

SOLD

$1050 for the housing, camera no longer available.

$1250 for the housing plus shipping $2000 for the housing + camera body plus shipping

Almost got taken by a Paypal scam I haven't seen before. It was through Craigslist not here but worth warning about. - Buyer wants to buy my underwater housing and camera. (They don't haggle which is a red flag.) - I get their address and send them a Paypal invoice. - They send me a screenshot showing they tried to send me money but 'the buyer isn't set up to receive funds.' - I log into Paypal, there is a notification on my account but I confirm with customer service that my account is OK. I ask them to try again. - I get a Paypal email saying you've got a deposit. At the LAST SECOND I notice a typo in the email, "Reply us with tracking number" so I don't click anything in the email and open PayPal from a new browser window. There is no money in there. Here's the twist, the link in the email was to "https://www.paypal.com/" but with a TON of javascript after that. I think the key is the part where they say it didn't go through, which makes you log into Paypal. The link in the email opens Paypal (where you're already logged in) and probably transfers money to some account so quickly that you don't notice until it's over. And by this point you've been expecting the Paypal email so you click it (spear fishing hack.)

$1850 plus shipping

$2450 for the housing (Why can't I edit the original post?)

Great condition housing for Canon 5D mark 4, including the camera body if you're interested. The best housing made for this camera, the Nauticam NA-5DIV has buttons right under your fingertips to access nearly every function. They have all of the best ports, including water-contact optics you can't find anywhere else. This is the last Canon with an optical viewfinder, which many prefer over electronic viewfinders for better dynamic range. It's compatible with Nauticam and other brands of 45 and 90-degree magnifying viewfinders, not included. Also included is a vacuum seal and alarm (mark 1) which holds a vacuum (with optional ports), works great, and gives excellent piece of mind before a dive. The housing is in great shape, has never flooded, and has been treated with care and maintenance throughout its life. Also included with the housing are: Nauticam Vacuum pump (brand new, never used) Wrench and M16 plug for removing/replacing vacuum port Spare CR2032 battery for vacuum/moisture alarm Spare body O-ring, never used Nauticam-supplied stainless steel metric allen wrench set Original Manual and microfiber polishing cloth Not included are any ports, strobes, strobe triggers, etc. Only what you see here. Also available is a Canon 5D mark IV body for a plug-and-play solution. Includes spare batteries, a charger, and 64GB and 32GB CF cards. $2750 for the housing, add $850 for the camera body. Domestic shipping available. Reach out with any questions. Thanks, -- Jeff Camera body sold separately, see above

I love my SMC-1. I found it sharper with nicer bokeh than the Subsea +5. Almost all my macro photos are taken with the Canon 100mm EF (non-L) and SMC-1 except for black water.

Yes, that happened to me on my last trip. “Something is wrong, one strobe is much weaker than the other.” I think I did several dives before someone pointed out the problem.

I recently upgraded from 240 to 330 and it's a big power difference. I shot the Z220 then Z240 for years so I had to adjust to the higher power of the Z330. For a while I had one Z220 and one Z240 and that was confusing as hell. The power switch was reversed and I couldn't keep straight which was clockwise versus counterclockwise to change power without looking. Also the power switch was all the way to the right for manual on one, but on the other it was MAX POWER and the power knob does nothing. Why why WHY does this setting exist, Inon? I've had the switch bumped underwater on kelp or whatever and I can't figure out why my photos are so overexposed. Then of course they changed the switches again for the Z330. So speaking from personal experience, having two different Inon strobes underwater is confusing AF.

I have one for a Canon 17-40L wide zoom. I’ve noticed better corner sharpness when using it. However I rarely shoot that lens, usually grabbing the fisheye instead. (Still using Sigma 15mm.)

Some of the Inon strobes have reversed power knobs and different power switches. 220, 240, 330 all had subtle changes. I’d go with a matched set to avoid confusion when task loaded underwater.

Recent trick I learned, disperse your Li-Ion batteries in all of your carry-ons. Then you can say there are rechargeable batteries inside and it’s illegal to check it. That plus ‘photo equipment’ often gets me through the door.

The Gosliner book is the standard for nudi ID. Also available as an app if you prefer, but I'm not sure the app is as thorough or up-to-date. You'll find a copy at most resorts and liveaboards that cater to divers. The faster way is to say "I think it's XXX YYYY" and wait for someone here to correct you. Should be IDed in a few minutes. ;)

I discussed my workflow here. The iPad app isn’t going to have flexible storage options like LR Classic, it wants to store everything on Adobe CC. You can still use local storage, but not to a network device. Even Apple Files doesn’t see servers on a network.

Thank you!

Yes, more/bigger cards would be a good investment. I'm hoping to upgrade my system soon, maybe I'll save some budget for more storage. But I can usually find someone at the resort who will copy files for me, then I can split up the two drives in my luggage home. I usually don't do too much more editing at home, either. Mostly color balance, I trust my home monitor more than the iPad for some reason.

I've been using Lightroom on an iPad Pro (M1 processor) for my last few trips. I thought I'd write up how this works, and discuss some of the benefits and disadvantages. I start with a hub and external drive for the iPad Pro. It uses USB-C so there are a bunch of choices out there. Some are designed to stick to the iPad, but it seems you can use any inexpensive hub. I found one with USB-C charging port, SD card reader, and USB for an external drive. I have a few SSD drives, one I made with an M.2 drive in an enclosure the size of a pack of gum. I also have an Apple Pencil, which you want for this type of setup, and Apple's case with a built-in keyboard. When I'm ready to download my photos, I plug the SD card into the hub and copy the images to my drive using the iOS Files app. Then I open Lightroom and import those files. At home I rename files before importing but I haven't found a auto-renamer on the iPad (like A Better Finder Rename.) So instead I work on the images without renaming, then rename them on the desktop version of Lightroom when I get home. For Lightroom import, you can theoretically select all then "skip duplicates." But if you have a few hundred files+ in there, this can take a while. I usually select the ones I want to import to save time, though this can be a bit tedious. Using Lightroom on the iPad is fun with the Apple Pencil. I can do anything I need to do from the desktop version, there might be a few differences but it seems really close. Plus you get to scribble on the screen to delete backscatter or whatever. The app will automatically import your camera profiles if they're in the desktop version. Flagging and tagging images goes quickly. There's even Photoshop for iPad if you want to do heavier editing, though I never do this on trips. If I need to share an image during the trip for a slideshow or something, I prefer to use Apple Airdrop when possible. If you have good internet, Lightroom will upload your images to the cloud automatically. That's your backup copy and how you get the images into Lightroom desktop. At the end of your trip, upload the images if they haven't already. Open Lightroom on your home computer (I use Classic), then watch the little cloud icon on the top right corner. Once you have a green check there, all of your images have been downloaded (you can set where they go in Lightroom Preferences.) I have a folder called "Synced" on my photos drive with these images. They will have all of the edits and metadata you added on the iPad version. You can then sort this folder how you like, by date or flagged or whatever, then copy the images IN LIGHTROOM to a different folder if you have a folder system for images. Advantages (from a laptop system:) It's very small and light, saving on your baggage allowance. Though the latest Macbook Air may have finally caught up. Working with the Apple Pencil is very nice for backscatter removal, brush tool, and other fine adjustments. The iOS version doesn't count against your licenses, so if you're already using Lightroom on two computers you can still use the iOS version. Compact to carry around the boat or resort if you want to show someone an image. Easier to watch movies on iPad on long plane flights than a laptop that gets launched into your ribcage when the seat in front of you reclines. Disadvantages: Copying or importing files can be a bit tedious since you can't "lasso" or shift-click a big list of files. You can select one with the Pencil and drag down, and it selects every image as it scrolls. But if you have hundreds of images to select this can take a while. I often need to do this once to select images to copy from SD to the hard drive, then again in Lightroom to import. You can't easily back up your hard drive. If you have good internet where you are, then Lightroom automatically uploads your images to their cloud. But if you want to copy all of your RAM files to another drive for backup, it's best to ask someone with a laptop to do that for you. iOS doesn't seem to be very good at file operations. Even copying one image from one drive to another can take around 60 seconds. If the iPad fell into the sea, would I build this setup all over again? Maybe not, for the two reasons listed above. But it's not annoying enough to switch, and I still enjoy editing with the Pencil like a Wacom. Let me know if you have any questions about the setup.

I usually go through my photos and flag the ones I like. Once I'm done with that, I sort by "unflagged," select all, and hit X to flag as rejected. Then go to the Photo menu and select "Delete Rejected Photos" and select "From Disk" at the prompt. Maybe new flavor Lightroom is different because everything is stored on their cloud. Not sure if theres a "Delete selected from cloud." I prefer Classic flavor Lightroom because I like multiple copies/backups of my raw files. But I also use Lightroom for iPad, which uploads everything to the cloud.