Architeuthis

I did not know it is possible to make split photos with WACP-C (I own one since beginning this year, but did not use it for split photos, as Nauticam says it is not possible). The photo by Chip shows, what Nauticam says, i.e. that it is not possible to get both UW and over the water (OW) sharp, even at f/22 (when I have a closer look at fruehaufsteher2's photo, I now see that also the (close and hence easier to get sharp) OW fin of the shark is blurry). I think unless a blurry OW is desired, for creative reasons, the WACP-C is not a good choice... I have a Canon 8-15mm/Metabones V with Nauticam 140mm domeport and use it with Sony A7R5 for split shots (most of the time I use it just for extreme WA UW). Far from an ideal solution, as (i) the virtual image produced by the small dome is close and hence it is more difficult to get both UW and OW sharp and (ii) it is more difficult to get a straight waterline, especially when the sea is not calm, with the small dome. Since I have this combo with me, it is, nevertheless, my choice for split photos when I am abroad. I mostly use the 8mm circular fisheye mode. Here are two example images: Canon 8-15mm @8mm, 1/125s, ISO 800, f/22, 2*Z330: Canon 8-15mm @8mm, 1/125s, ISO 800, f/22, 2*Z330: Lisi uses the Zen DP170 with Tokina 10-17mm (seen on the second photo) or the rectilinear Zuiko 8-25mm for split photos (Olympus EM1II). The bigger dome works better for splits than the 140mm domeport... I have seen even an UW photographer making split photos with the Zen 100mm dome and Tokina 10-17mm (Nikon D500) and the results were nice (of course it is the most difficult combination). The reason he used this combo was just that he had it along with him and no other choice... For the future I am considering of acquiring a 200mm domeport that I think is ideal for rectilinear WA lenses on A7R5, as well as for split shots. The DP200 with rectilinear WA lens(es) would replace then the WACP-C, when travelling on air (both WACP-C and a DP200 is too much to carry...). In addition to providing WA, less extreme than the fisheye, the DP200 would provide very good split photo possibility. Unfortunately the Zen DP200 is not available at present. There is a 200mm domeport available from Athena, but I am not sure this is the same type of port, I have to do more recherches... Very tempting is the 12" Matty Smith acryl domeport, but I cannot see me carrying this domeport along for diving holidays an an aeroplane. It is just specialized for split photos (I even do not make split photos on every diving vacation, it depends on circumstances and motifs). This would be a special domeport, just for using it at home, but I guess I will not be able to resist acquiring one sooner or later... Wolfgang

I have a used, costum made, D&D Nauticam N85-N120 portadapter 30mm for sale (https://www.unterwasserkamera.at/shop/catalog/en/product_info.php?info=p6901_d-d-nauticam-n85---n120-portadapter-30mm.html). As the designation implies, this adapter serves to connect a port/domeport from Nauticam with N120 opening to a housing with N85 opening (e.g. MFT) and has an extension of 30mm. I have used it with the Zen DP170 (N120 version) and the Zuiko 8mm fisheye on MFT cameras (=> excellent IQ!). price new: 490 Euros As this is a rarely needed (but if needed, very useful) product, I ask for only 170 Euros including shipping within EU (surcharge for shipping outside EU upon request) Wolfgang

I have a used Nauticam N120 extension ring 10 with screws for sale (SKU # 21110; old version)... price new: 214 Euros asking 100 Euros including shipping within EU (other destinations with surcharge upon request) Wolfgang

I have a used Nauticam N85 to N120 60mm port adapter (SKU # 36204) for sale. I have used it previously with the Zen DP170 (N120 version) for the Panasonic 7-14mm WA lens... price new 489 Euros asking 250 Euros including shipping within EU (other shipping with appropriate surcharge upon request) Wolfgang

New price for Nauticam focus gear for Canon 100mm f/2.8 IS: 60 Euro incl. shipping within EU (other destinations with surcharge for shipping)... Wolfgang

The question to me is, whether this company did a bad job by (i) raising unjustified high expectations and in (ii) execution of the "expedition" (like no plan B, too many people in the boat, wrong season etc...)... I have been just once in La Paz in the early 90ies for a week and remember very well the meetings with the sea lions (very easy and especially pleasing to encounter them (except the big dominant males, when they get jealous...)). The sea mountain with the hammerheads was not possible then, because of the weather conditions (=not the fault of the diving base). Whales were visible seldom from far on the way to or back from the diving sites, but none of them UW... (I will not go there again as long as they have this strange rip off of UW-photographers at the border control, but as soon as this stops, we plan to be there...) The last photo with the mobulas is fantastic. I wished I ever will have such an occasion. Such an occasion is certainly worth a lot of troubles, maybe better to see the positive side... Wolfgang

I am late to this party, just my opinion (only Mark can decide what, at present, is the optimum for him): Any of the three options is a substantial upgrade to the TG-6. From compact to ILC is a big leap, both in size&weight and in money to invest (I estimate that both factors increase approx. like: RX100<<MFT<APS-C<FF)). RX100 vs. OM: I think the difference in IQ between Sony RX100x and MFT is not very big, but the MFT camera offers the possibility to change the lens (some are optically brilliant) and to prepare the setup especially for different purpose (for some a big advantage, others like the flexibility of a compact with wetlenses)... => In any case I believe a smart and elegant compact setup (e.g. RX100 in reliable alu housing (e.g. Nauticam, Isotta) and with high quality wet lens for WA (e.g. WWL-C - instead of the cheapest wet lens available in e.g. Alibaba) and macro (e.g. CMC) is much better than to go for a high end system camera that is housed in low quality plastic housing (high danger of flooding, buttons not available, non-ergonomical, or not working etc...) and using low quality wet lenses. I also read several times in different treads and forums that the cheap domeports of companies as e.g. Meike have really bad optical performance... => If I would not be sure jet, whether I liked better a compact or a ILC system, I would step up just to the next level and go for compact, but buy really good quality... Wolfgang

I just upgraded LRc to version 13.3, as well as the Mac OS to 14.5.0... => The bug is fixed now...😋 Wolfgang

First, let me thank all of you for the interesting comments...👍 Until now I was using my strobes (Z-330) at color tempearture as they come from the factory (5500 K). Two weeks ago, I pre-ordered two Backscatter HF-1 strobes with different types of diffusers (6500 K, 5500 K and 4500 K) and am glad to read how people use such filters (or some, not at all), to have a first orientation for my own experimentation... (I, personally, am convinced that it is better to adjust the color temperature relation between artificial and ambient light already before the light hits the sensor (this was the reason for per-ordering two HF-1's plus filters). There will be always corrections in post-processing, also using masks, but the smaller such manipulations are, the better the final outcome will be (this is at least my hope))...😊 Wolfgang

How do you get the subject/object focus distance from the EXIF data? I guess you have a special trick or program? => I just had a look at raw files from Sony A7R5 in LRc, obtained with Canon 8-15mm fisheye, Sony 28-60mm and Sony 20-70mm, but "Focus Distance" or "Subject Distance" values are missing in my case... Wolfgang

Big thanks for writing this together Massimo... 👍 As I understand your findings, there is a big difference between WWL1/WACP and a domeport: The domeport produces a small virtual image that is close to the domeport and is photographed by the (rectilinear) WA lens at short object distance. In contrast WWL1/WACP add additional optical elements to the front of a standard lens, the entire assembly (standard lens + WWL1/WACP) being an UW WA lens with fisheye characteristics. This is indicated by the long working distance that you read from the EXIF data (the distance is, of course, incorrect, as the specification in m is for the pure lens without WWL1/WACP and over the water)? Wolfgang

Here I found an interesting summary how to transport Li+, but also other, batteries on flights: https://petapixel.com/flying-with-lithium-batteries-what-you-need-to-know/ Wolfgang

I have questions regarding the selection of the color temperature of a flashlight, especially to people who change the temperature, depending on conditions: My understanding is that for photos that are lit (almost) exclusively by a flash, e.g. macro, color temperature of the flash is unimportant as the temperature of the raw file can be adjusted delibertately in postprocessing, e.g. LRc... The color temperature of a flash becomes important, when ambient light and artificial light from a flash get mixed. e.g. WA. The warmer the color temperature, the less adjustment of the raw file is required in order to get the correct WB for the foreground subject that is lit by the flash. Hence, the background color, e.g. open water, is less influenced by the WB procedure and the blue will be more natural... Here is an example photo that I produced on my last trip to the Carribean, using two Inon Z330s with standard diffusers. The color temperature of these flashes is at 5500K. WB was adjusted to show the correct colors of the reef shark (Carcharhinus perezi) to the left in the foreground: Sony A7R5, Sony 20-70mm @20mm, 1/160s, f/9, ISO 400, 2*Z330: I guess, if I would have used diffusers to warm up the color temperature to 4500K I would have a "better" blue in the background, i.e. less "greenish" cast? How do you adjust the color temperature of your flashes and what temperature is the optimum for what conditions? Thanks, Wolfgang

Indeed a small difference. I doubt that one can see a difference in real world WA photos, certainly not worth going for the larger domeport... And there is some chromatic aberration with the Zen DP230, probably a result of incorrect positioning, as you outline in the EMail you have sent to me (are the images corrected for CA, BTW?)... => Thank you, Massimo, for this very interesting test series (confirms for my usage, that NA140 is way enough for the Canon 8-15mm)... Wolfgang

Left: dome #1, right: dome #2 Top to bottom: center to corner Yes? Clearly the left image at the bottom is sharper. Maybe a small difference in the middle. Same IQ in the top… I would say: left is DP230 and right is Nauticam 140, but the small improvement in IQ in the corner is not really worth the upgrade from 140 to 230 (except for split photos, but this is a different story)… But maybe Massimo is right with his "wrong positioning story" and it is the opposite (left= NA140; right=DP230)? 😋 Wolfgang

Of course larger domes are more comfortable for split photos, especially in tubulent waters. In addition, the virtual image of the UW proportion is further away, the larger the dome, while the over the water proportion is always at the same (far) distance. Therefore a larger dome makes it easier to have both UW and over the water in reasonable focus... My question to Phil is whether he can recognize a difference in IQ in the UW photos between the 140mm and the 230mm domeports... Wolfgang

Do you notice a substantial difference in IQ between the 140mm and the 230mm domes (except better performance of 230mm for split photos)? Wolfgang

No BS, Massimo - that is what I was told officially by Nauticam: they do not give two stars when they IQ is very similar, but the smaller dome gets the star in this case... I suggest you ask your question at Nauticam, they are usually very cooperative. Their answer would be of interest for many here... Wolfgang

I have asked this question some time ago to Nauticam/US. The answer was that the combination with best optical performance is rated with (*), but when they do not notice further obvious improvement with a bigger dome, the smallest dome that brings already best IQ is rated with (*). => This would mean that the 230mm dome does not bring substantial better optical performance over the 140mm dome with the fisheye lens (for split shots it is clearly the better choice)... Wolfgang

This must be the difference in the front cover. In my case WACP-C with Showa (L without warming gloves, XL with Fourth Elements warming gloves underneath) and no problem... Wolfgang

This is really interesting - I did not expect that one could use a 10mm rectilinear WA lens behind the small 140mm dome...👍 What regards the image samples: the 10mm Laowa/140mm photo was taken at 1/2 f-stop more closed than the Sony 28-60mm/WACP-C photo. While the corners seem to be a tick better with the 10mm Laowa (one could say corner performance of WACP-C and Laowa behind the 140mm dome is similar?), the writing on the metal ring in the center seems to be a little sharper with the WACP-C (or is this just the different color temperature that pretends better sharpness/microcontrast?)... The Laowa 10mm seems to me a shiny new toy for UW-photographers...😊 (At the beginning of this tread I did not consider this lens to be of any value, but now I am close to order one...) Wolfgang

Hi CHanly83, I use the hardcover all over the time. I have drilled two adjacent holes in the hardcover, to be able to fix a boltsnap on the hardcover via cable binder. As soon as I am in the water, I remove the hardcover from the setup and fix the hardcover via boltsnap on a D-ring on my jacket. Before preparing to leave the water, I put the hardcover back on the setup to protect the expensive lens. No other protector needed... Wolfgang

No, I did not test HSS mode. When I switch WL flash in A7R5 menue "ON", rear curtain is not possible to select any more and one has to set it via PC program...

Just a final update to this issue from my side: I have now received the manual version of the Sony s-Turtle trigger (in exchange for the TTL version). Balazs from Turtle was so kind to provide an extra LED unit, at no charge, as a spare. => I like the Turtle trigger as it is a compact unit (I think to have an extra LED unit, which looks a little fragile, as a spare is a good idea). Also the charging via USB-C is no problem, when once one is accoustumed to it. =>Switching between 1st and 2nd curtain via the camera menue (A7R5) is now possible and can be done during the dive. Switching the flash trigger "OFF" is, unfortunately, still not possible. When I want the flashes off, I have to switch the units off manually by hand. Guess I can live with this... Wolfgang

When we are talking now about the rectilinear WA options, I throw in the Zuiko 8-15mm. Lisi has it and uses it with the Zen DP170 (I also used it some times). It gives brilliant results, it is a highly recommendable UW lens... Wolfgang