Yorkie88

There is one here: https://waterpixels.net/forums/topic/671-proven-3d-printed-parts-for-underwater-imaging/page/4/#findComment-15804 The gear works well, mines a bit hard to get on the lens but that's probably my printer not being calibrated properly - I might reprint it at 101% but I don't have the port so haven't got around to trying that yet.

Great reminder - been meaning to do that for a while! Ran through both of these for my A7RV on Friday after work and most of the settings menus were relevant for that body too. The strobe settings video sounded very interesting but I'm assuming that would be bit more difficult to cover multiple triggers and strobes etc.

Thanks for your help with this! Ended up printing a few sizes of this out: ThingiverseM3 round spacers by windridesM3 round spacersInner diameter: 3mmOuter diameter: 6mmLength: 2mm to 50mmThe 2mm seemed to fit best, in that when I stacked the PCB, spacer and the block, a 10mm screw stuck out 4mm, like the original screw did. My printer is a bit off so they were a tight fit in the block and the hole needed boring out a little with a bigger Allen key but seems to fit just fine 🙂 Now to decide whether to use this or the TRT!

I appreciate this is a slightly strange request, but I just picked up a used UWTechnics trigger (pretty sure it's the 11075 - although the hotshoe is only wired to a 4 wire ribbon rather than the 6 on the photo in the instructions), however it doesn't have the fitting screws/spacers with it. I know the screw is M3x10 as the instructions state that, but I'm wondering if anyone knows what the spacer size is? Hopefully it's a standard one that I can get locally, but if not then I do have a 3D printer so could make one in the right size.....I think they're just to make the PCB sit correctly on the block so I guess 3D printing should be strong enough. If anyone has any dimensions/names for the spacers, that would be very much appreciated 😁

Currently I don't have either 😁 It sounds like home insurance does cover gear when you're away though so I'll check that option out and maybe just get some standard travel cover for the normal stuff like non-diving medical stuff. I do like the idea of just having a pot of money just in case though - good motivation to take extra care with setting up too! Thanks!

Hello! Has anyone got any tips on whether it's better to get travel insurance with some kind of add-on to cover camera gear (normal theft/loss stuff and floods), or whether home insurance would be better? I'm assuming home insurance covers you if you go overseas too? The one DAN offer seems to be good but it's for US residents only and I'm in Australia Thanks!

Not sure how to update the title - but this is no longer needed 🙂

I should have mentioned - the upgrade looks great otherwise!

Looking for a N100 flat 45 port and a WWL-1 if anyone is selling them, bayonet adaptor would be handy too! 🙂 Located in Melbourne, Australia - but happy to pay for shipping if reasonable! Thanks

Not sure if something is just off for me or if it's a wider thing but google sign in doesn't seem to work anymore, the oauth redirect page gives a 403 so I wonder if it's going to a URL from the old site or something. I reset my password and did a normal login, but thought I should flag it up here - cheers!

Have you tried swapping the batteries between the 2 strobes, just to check it's a strobe issue and not a battery issue?

Love the frogfish! Heading there next month so hoping to see all of the above 😃

Thanks both - wasn't sure if it was a distance thing for the focus, or a physical fitting thing. Sounds like it's the latter so will be easy to test quickly on land. Thanks!

I think it's good that they're trying to do something to help protect the reefs......its going to be tricky to get a balance though! I wonder if there could be places that would insist on a photography "certification" in the future - it's going to be hard to police either way.

Does anyone know whether you would need the M67 adaptor/spacer when using a non Nauticam wet lens? I've got an inon UCL-165 so it's got the M67 thread, but I'm not sure what the spacer is for that comes with the SMC-1 for (as I don't have the lens or spacer) - would it be needed for all diopters or just the Nauticam specific ones? Cheers!

I just tried it on "Continuous Low" (A7RV so I'm guessing 3fps?) and I'd say every other shot triggered it so 0.9s seems more correct than 6s Still haven't got round to 3d printing anything but I might try a cardboard prototype - it will literally just be something angled upwards with aluminium foil on anyway - maybe I'll go full MacGyver and just Blu tac it on 😂 It's not like I intend to actually use it anyway, it's just in case the trigger has issues!

Yeah, I was looking at the IM20 initially but then found this one which looked smaller (was concerned about the height mostly) so went with that one: 34L x 18H x 29W https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008042088749.html It's not adjustable in any way, so you can't reduce power to save battery or anything though.

Just putting this out there to see if anyone is selling an OS-1 Snoot, ideally in Australia but happy to pay shipping if it makes sense! Not too fussed for the colour slides accessories, but the aperture cards would be good 😊 Cheers

It fits easily in the NA-A7RV housing, it's not much bigger than the TRT trigger. It doesn't line up with the holes to trigger it straight away, but just putting my finger in front of it bounced it off enough to trigger my MF-2 so I'll see if I can 3d print something and stick foil to it - which is pretty much what my seafrogs housing seems to use to bounce the light to the fibre ports. There's a slant at the front of the flash which could be a good place to put something simple on. It's never going to do anything fancy but it could be a cheap backup option at around $55 AUD.

I know this is an old thread, but for some reason I have it in my head that the thread on the seafrogs housing is M10x0.75 - which is a weird one. I was looking for an adaptor for ages so I could figure out where the leak was on my spare housing but never found one. I did get a die to cut the thread but never actually got round to doing anything with it as my "main" housing was fine and I'm no metalworker! If you know a machinist, or ask some machine shops, maybe you could get an adaptor made up so it fits a more standard threaded vacuum system?

There isn't quite as much space in the A7RV compared to the 6700 but I found a smaller looking flash, the MedaLight F1S, so I ordered one to try out - will report back if it fits!

I've used an x-adventurer M1000-WRA, it works well for the auto off feature which works with both the white and red light. Takes an 18650 battery, claims 90min for the white light at 1000lm but I haven't had it run flat yet as I've always swapped the battery out before it runs down to 0

Hey all, This isn't really a DIY thing but I was wondering whether anyone thought there could be a chance of one of these mini flashes working as a strobe trigger (if it fits in a housing obviously)? https://www.godox.com/product-a/iM20-iM22.html To clarify, I'm not planning on actually doing this, just thinking it could be a potential cheap "emergency backup" option for if my TRT trigger breaks on a trip 😁

I imagine it's the older 32203, I just got one for my A7RV nauticam housing and it fits, but you will probably need to set the viewfinder to "zoom out" - is that an option on the a7riv too?

Looks like it's 6.9kg on land and 1.8kg in the water so I'd better have a look at what combination I'll need to get! I left my wet lens and focus light off so 1.8kg of lift should leave it slightly negative I think. Maybe some of those fixed buoyancy carbon fibre arms for the bulk of it plus some removable floats for smaller adjustment if needed. I did see a stix belt for macro ports that could be a good way to add the floats without having all the arms covered in them. I've got a couple of Hyperion floats that total 0.8kg so I could use those too: https://www.onlinedivegear.com.au/products/hyperion-float-tube-set-large?variant=17897469706329