Yorkie88

Ah, thanks! Think I'd probably be a bit nervous to put that on an expensive body..... although I guess the normal ports are just an o-ring too, but less vintage Cheers

Forgive me if this is a dumb question, but how does it all seal up? Is there glass in the nauticam adaptor (I can't tell from the pictures 😁)? So the camera is in the housing as usual, but with no lens attached, then the adaptor is fitted as a normal port would be and the lens just connects on the wet side by bayonet? Or is there no glass in the adaptor, but a seal between lens and adaptor? (Not planning on getting anything like this but just curious) Thanks!

Maybe have a look at submitting it for festivals like the ocean film festival in Australia! Looks like it's too late for this year (as it's in March) but maybe you could submit it for next year? https://filmfreeway.com/OceanFilmFestivalWorldTour

I think the 11075 is the one recommended for the A7RV - not sure of the actual difference though, if they're both Sony then maybe they are interchangeable. @Pavel Kolpakov may have some insight on the differences 🙂 Have you tried the "0" setting on the trigger so it's not doing anything too fancy and is just in manual mode? And are you using multicore fibre optics? Also maybe check the flash compensation setting in the camera, if you are in manual mode for the trigger, or if you have WL on in the camera settings, then setting that compensation to a + number might make the led brighter.

I got some of the cheap ones (BGNing) to try out and they seemed ok to me - not that I had anything to compare to! I think I used 2 x 5 inch and 2 x 8 inch, with those long clamps with the hole for a shackle to keep them far enough apart to fold up together. I haven't used them all that much so can't really comment on the long term usage, or quality - but they did the job and didn't leak in the week that I used them (20 something dives in Dumaguete). They look to have a threaded rod all the way through to stop the end popping off.....but I haven't taken them apart to confirm! https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003127674881.html I do think I might need even more lift though so might need to reconfigure things a bit! The stix collars look good for the 90mm port 🤔 The clamps I used were these but nauticam do ones with shackle holes too (handy for lanyards): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006060100346.html The required bow shackles were quite small, I think an m3 or m4 shaft from what I can remember.

Seems like AOI manufactured those for Fantasea (from https://underwater.com.au/shop/ucl-05lf-macro-lens-67mm.html) Fantasea UCL-05LF +6 Macro Lens - cat # 5115 - AOI lens UCL-05LUCL-05LF (made by AOI under code UCL-05L)

I'm not getting out often at the moment so I'm not really looking for now. Thanks for asking though and good luck with your sale 🙂

Yeah I had that zoom out option switched on, I think it still cuts the corners off slightly (it was back in June so can't remember exactly) - I think I turned it off as I found it easier to see less of the display but bigger if that makes sense. I'd say zoom out shows pretty much all the screen, maybe the far corners are a bit hard to look at but I would be looking in the centre mostly anyway. I tried to use my phone to take a picture of the viewfinder with the zoom out option on and off - not sure if it's useful or not though! Tricky to take a picture, you can see more with your eye I think, as you can change angle etc.

I have the old model on my A7RV, I guess that's 1:1? It fits and you can see most of it at the right angle...... it's my first viewfinder though so I don't think I can offer much actual opinion on it (didn't want to pay thousands for the new one and potentially find I don't like it) - I found it quite hard to use, but expected that to happen. And I'd probably find the 0.8:1 hard to use too!

I think they might all be the same port - their aluminium housing catalogue shows a lot of different housings but all the ports are in one section and all start with SF125 (I'm assuming they're 125mm wide?) https://www.seafrogs.com/Download/1828674072319315968.html https://www.seafrogs.com/viewfilebizce/1852611896599064576/%E9%93%9D%E5%A3%B3%E5%AE%A3%E4%BC%A0%E4%B8%89%E6%8A%98%E9%A1%B5v2_%E5%94%90%E5%89%91%E4%BA%91.pdf

Congratulations to @MatthewSullivan - cleaning up a few categories!

I did have the diffuser on the whole time I think 🤦🏻‍♂️

They look great - they should both hold themselves in, I like the look of the springy one for a bit of wiggle room on the distance between the holes, and also a way to hold itself in. I don't think the TRT one has any glue or anything so I reckon either of these would work well! You could always take some blue tac (or that sugru stuff) and stuff the leds in without a holder too as an emergency option!

I really struggled with the same setup as @Architeuthis when I was in Dumaguete (even down to taking a snoot and not using it!). I thought the shots were darker than I expected (after copying other people's settings). I use the NL2160HP batteries so should have plenty of power available. I got a couple of decent shots but I feel like they were more down to luck than judgement or skill! I just put it down to my lack of knowledge/experience in manual strobe usage, which it probably was mostly, but I'll be following this thread for any tips! Sounds like bumping the ISO up would be a good thing to try next time I actually get in the water!

But it says it's safe and supported by Windows 😂

I don't have calipers and my UWT is fitted so it's a bit awkward and possibly not 100% accurate, but centre to centre looks to be 26mm (measured left edge to left edge from the top which should be the same), bore looks to be around 6mm - guess a 5mm LED would work best for it. I can't really measure the depth, but the turtle trigger bit that goes in the hole (https://www.trt-electronics.com/shop/led-adapter-for-nauticam-sony-housings/6/) is 10mm long to the tip of the LED. I had to get these for the wet side too as I had the push fit connectors on my fibre optic cables: https://www.nauticam.com/products/optical-fibre-connector-for-nauticam-to-use-with-262162-pieces

Great detail on these! That first one is amazing! I really struggled to get good shots of them last month.....maybe I need an SMC instead of the cheap Inon diopter 🤔 (any excuse to get more gear)

Do you have a multimeter? Could you measure the remaining one?

Those will be specs of the drive itself, rather than the enclosure - seems to be getting tricky to find the real specs of the drives these days, manufacturers seem to swap out components for some models and don't always make it clear!

I think the MF-2 is the way - I don't have the port or WWL for wide angle anyway (I've always preferred macro!)

Sorry, I forgot to mention that! It's the Sony A7RV. Thanks for the test ideas - I'll give some of those a try and see if I can figure out manual strobe, it seems like most people end up using that anyway 🙂 I don't have the magnet for the strobe (second hand, didn't come with it) so I'll try and figure out TTL for that strobe as an option, but ultimately the MF-2's are probably what I want to be using......the D-2000 in TTL was my "trying to be lazy" alternative! I realise it's also pretty half as old as me so I'm not surprised things aren't designed to work with it nowadays 😁 For the MF-2, in case it's useful for anyone - the Retra Pro Max setting looks to work for the HSS feature

Thanks nemrod! The manual for the trigger does list a few inon strobes, but not the D-2000 - I just thought with the S-TTL sounding almost universal, it might work on one of the others. Maybe the 220 setting is worth a shot! Enjoy the diving!

Hi all, I've got an old D-2000 that isn't supported by either of the strobe triggers I have.....but I was wondering about the S-TTL function from Inon. I think it just copies the "camera" - so should any trigger theoretically be able to do TTL with that strobe, if it just repeats the trigger LED "pattern" for the pre flash then TTL flash duration? I'm not sure how to test it fully with the triggers (I have UWT and Turtle), with all the different options they have - but I used a TTL land strobe (godox 860ii) as a trigger for the inon and that seemed to expose correctly, but when I've tried the UWT on the Z-240, Z-330 and S-220/D-200 modes it doesn't seem to be quite right. Is there any kind of idiots guide to testing TTL on land with an underwater strobe to see if I could use that old strobe on my next dive? 😁 I just returned from a trip and it made me realise I have no idea how to use the strobes in manual as I've only used the pop up flash and S-TTL mode before....which isn't an option now I don't have a pop up flash on my new camy, and I've now got the MF-2 that don't do TTL for Sony, regardless of trigger type. Came back with lots of terrible shots, and I'm assuming it's mostly the strobe side of things that let me down, although I'm not that good with full manual either if I'm being honest so it's also very possibly a combination of both.

If this drops the 90mm down to 60mm, can you then use the MWL-1 on the end of it to take wide angle with a 90mm? That might be a step too far 😂

Yeah the TPU ring seems fine, I think it's just my printer that isn't quite dialled in so I couldn't get the plastic ring over the TPU ring when it was on the lens - that was the first TPU print I've done so I could have printed that in a way that made it thick or something too. I'm sure it's me or the printer that's the issue so I'll have more of a play with the settings at some point 🙂