Recommandation gear EPL-10

[humu9679]

8 hours ago, sacha said:

Coming with an extra question as you're all very helpful ! To pack as light as possible, I have decided to start with one strobe only. I have got a backscatter Mini Flash 1 for now.

This is what my tray and strobes look like : 

 

I'm worried of not having enough amplitude in the arm. I have seen some examples from backscatter where both arm floats are on the same side. Doesn't that make the camera float in a strange way that needs to be pushed hard with one hand ? Like this : 

 

And then one final question. It feels like the balls on my arms are smaller than the ones on the strobe and on the tray. Is this possible ? Are there different type of balls ?
If yes, is this an issue ? I feel like it then rotates easier there than in other places but it doesn't feel like it will falls off.

Thanks again ! 

 

That bare arm is begging you to spend more money! It has the look of a peg-legged pirate.

[TimG]

10 hours ago, humu9679 said:

That bare arm is begging you to spend more money! It has the look of a peg-legged pirate.

 

Well Sacha has come to the right place then. Our "gift" is helping people spend more money, right?

[coweyman]

I have a 2 strobe setup and love it. Although I have been looking at doing a 3 ball clamp and adding a video light. It might become to bulky though

[humu9679]

20 minutes ago, coweyman said:

I have a 2 strobe setup and love it. Although I have been looking at doing a 3 ball clamp and adding a video light. It might become to bulky though

It seems bulky is inescapable. Much like middle-age spread and reading glasses. The three ball clamps work fine, but I also like to use the cold shoes on the housing or port, and fastener bolt holes on some housings.

[sacha]

3 hours ago, humu9679 said:

 

That bare arm is begging you to spend more money! It has the look of a peg-legged pirate.

Please don’t have a bad influence on me ahah.

Anyway it is too late now, I’m leaving tomorrow for my holidays 😁

[Chris Ross]

13 hours ago, sacha said:

Coming with an extra question as you're all very helpful ! To pack as light as possible, I have decided to start with one strobe only. I have got a backscatter Mini Flash 1 for now.

This is what my tray and strobes look like : 

 

I'm worried of not having enough amplitude in the arm. I have seen some examples from backscatter where both arm floats are on the same side. Doesn't that make the camera float in a strange way that needs to be pushed hard with one hand ? Like this : 

 

And then one final question. It feels like the balls on my arms are smaller than the ones on the strobe and on the tray. Is this possible ? Are there different type of balls ?
If yes, is this an issue ? I feel like it then rotates easier there than in other places but it doesn't feel like it will falls off.

Thanks again ! 

It will want to float with the LH handle (with both floats)  upwards, but there's not much buoyancy in 4 stix floats.  4 large floats is +320gr while the strobe is -150gr.  So with 2 on one side it's +170 gr on the left. 

 

In the configuration with two floats on each side it's -150+160 = 10gr positive.  while the RHS is +160gr a difference of 150 gr more bouyancy on the RH than the LH side.

 

So the unbalance from side to side is very close in both configurations, a difference of 20 grams. 

 

On the balls perhaps change all the o-rings to be the same type if they are not already.  I would also add that the float each side configuration might need something to keep th floats from floating off the bare of the arm, it's only a push fit as shown in the photo. 

 

on a single strobe, should be fine for macro, but probably will struggle for wide angle shots with the mini strobe.  Two of them is probably just adequate for WA

[John E]

Try both arms on one side like the second photo and just have them going over the top of the housing in an arch to keep the Stix floats centred for balance - and then have more range of movement when you take a picture. You may even prefer to only have one handle if you are going as small as possible, eg ditch the right hand one if the handle on the tray doesn't align well with the shutter release on the housing without a shutter release extension. 

 

 

 

[sacha]

1 hour ago, Chris Ross said:

It will want to float with the LH handle (with both floats)  upwards, but there's not much buoyancy in 4 stix floats.  4 large floats is +320gr while the strobe is -150gr.  So with 2 on one side it's +170 gr on the left. 

 

In the configuration with two floats on each side it's -150+160 = 10gr positive.  while the RHS is +160gr a difference of 150 gr more bouyancy on the RH than the LH side.

 

So the unbalance from side to side is very close in both configurations, a difference of 20 grams. 

 

On the balls perhaps change all the o-rings to be the same type if they are not already.  I would also add that the float each side configuration might need something to keep th floats from floating off the bare of the arm, it's only a push fit as shown in the photo. 

 

on a single strobe, should be fine for macro, but probably will struggle for wide angle shots with the mini strobe.  Two of them is probably just adequate for WA

These are jumbo floats actually so +726g. So a bit more difference between both config.
I'll have a look at the balls thanks ! Didn't realize the orings could be changed.

And yes I initially thought about bringing extra clamps to make sure the floats would stay there but I must say that they seem to be really attached. Will check whether I have extra clamps to be sure though.

Yep I realize the limitation for the single strobe but had to cut somewhere unfortunately. It is already much heavier / bigger than I wish already. Thinking of doing mainly WA close to the surface without any strobe and use the strobe for macro.

 

7 minutes ago, John E said:

Try both arms on one side like the second photo and just have them going over the top of the housing in an arch to keep the Stix floats centred for balance - and then have more range of movement when you take a picture. You may even prefer to only have one handle if you are going as small as possible, eg ditch the right hand one if the handle on the tray doesn't align well with the shutter release on the housing without a shutter release extension. 

 

 

 

 

Ah nice idea, I will try that ! Also thought of getting rid of one arm but didn't want to risk hating it so took both with me. After a few dive, I will try removing one and see how it goes. Do you usually handle the strobe with the left hand or is that a personal preference thing ? 

 

[humu9679]

6 hours ago, sacha said:

These are jumbo floats actually so +726g. So a bit more difference between both config.
I'll have a look at the balls thanks ! Didn't realize the orings could be changed.

 

 

For the 1" balls on Ultralight Control System hardware, they recommend Buna O Rings size 2-209, or Danco #95 15/16 x 11/16 x 1/8 inches. (I really prefer metric measurements).

[John E]

Sound like you have it sorted. Having one handle is a personal preference and what fits the particular housing, especially for a generic housing that may have a handle a little bit too far from the shutter release. Like you are doing ... easiest to just have two to start then see what you like.

 

 

 

 

[Floris Bennema]

I prefer a hand strap on the side of the shutter release. Not sure if it's possible on a AIO housing.

[sacha]

Hello, I have been using the camera and it has been a blast ! Thank you very much everyone for the different advices. 
I need to post my pictures here somewhere as well as I’m sure I’ll get many great advices, as there are many potential zones of amelioration 😄

 

I have also removed the right handle like some people recommended here. I quite like it but the strobe is sometimes hard to position because both floats get in the way of each other. It is also quite bulky which makes it difficult to get close to things sometimes if they are hidden under a coral. 
 

I love the macro, and the diopter works great. But will probably acquire a macro lens at some point as that sounds better / easier. 
 

I’m quite bad at wide angle though. Find it much more complex to get a great picture. Also I smashed my wide angle lens against a rock during a dive with way too much current where I shouldn’t have taken my camera with me …
Another thing I need to learn is how to take videos. Not great at that either … 

 

Also quite happy about the MF1.

 

I have a new question. The manual for the aoi housing mentions not washing the inside of the port. I avoided doing it but after a while I started collecting some small dust on it so decided to clean it with a microfiber. Looks like it was a bad idea as it sometimes gets foggy now which it didn’t before. I probably damaged some hydrophobic layer that was on it. 
What would you recommend to do now ? Go all in and wash it with shampoo like I do my masks ? I already have a small silica packet inside. 

[humu9679]

12 hours ago, sacha said:

I have a new question. The manual for the aoi housing mentions not washing the inside of the port. I avoided doing it but after a while I started collecting some small dust on it so decided to clean it with a microfiber. Looks like it was a bad idea as it sometimes gets foggy now which it didn’t before. I probably damaged some hydrophobic layer that was on it. 
What would you recommend to do now ? Go all in and wash it with shampoo like I do my masks ? I already have a small silica packet inside. 

 

Keep the interior of the housing dry. If any dust, dirt or sand gets in there, remove those. If there is any moisture in the interior, this will cause fogging when the housing heats up - from the camera or the sun. It sounds as though there is already water inside the housing, or water is getting in through one of the button or dials.

 

When you wash the sealed housing in fresh water, consider pushing and turning all the buttons and dials several times while submerged, this may dislodge any fine debris or sand that can become lodged. Every button and dial is a hole that can allow water, and only an o-ring or two are keeping water out. Also, remove the main o-rings and clean the channels.

 

After the camera is cleaned, leave the back open to dry. Later, seal up the housing without a camera and take it for another dive. You might put some tissue paper in the housing to see if that becomes wet or the housing fogs. If it does, there is likely a leak somewhere.

 

Good luck!

Craig

[sacha]

Thank you Craig, I'll apply this.

I have been cleaning the O-rings and they seem ok but I still get some condensation sometimes.
The camera water and pressure sensors haven't shown any errors though.

I hope it is not something stuck in one of the smaller o-rings because I have already quite a few costs to repair things on the camera, but I'll see.

[Chris Ross]

Fogging has to be caused by water inside the housing this can come from many sources, a common one being the drops of water clinging to an o-ring when you open the housing.  Make sure you mop up or blow off any water droplets before closing up again.   Closing a housing with a clamshell back can push some of that water in.  Blow out the inside of the housing with air from a scuba tank if possible, it will remove water as it is very dry before you test the housing.

 

It seems unlikley to me that there is any layer you could remove with a micro fibre and really can't think how that could impact anything.  They likely tell you to leave it alone to avoid scratches.  

 

Silica gel particularly small packs has a short life as it quickly absorbs moisture from the air.  It needs to be stored in an airtight container till you use it. 

 

You said it's an AOI housing?  do an extended vacuum test to check for leaks and works all the controls.  If it holds vacuum it should be water tight.  Air leaks in quicker than water.

[JohnD]

On 10/27/2024 at 3:25 AM, sacha said:

Coming with an extra question as you're all very helpful ! To pack as light as possible, I have decided to start with one strobe only. I have got a backscatter Mini Flash 1 for now.

This is what my tray and strobes look like : 

 

I'm worried of not having enough amplitude in the arm. I have seen some examples from backscatter where both arm floats are on the same side. Doesn't that make the camera float in a strange way that needs to be pushed hard with one hand ? Like this : 

 

And then one final question. It feels like the balls on my arms are smaller than the ones on the strobe and on the tray. Is this possible ? Are there different type of balls ?
If yes, is this an issue ? I feel like it then rotates easier there than in other places but it doesn't feel like it will falls off.

Thanks again ! 

I did not read every post, so this may be redundant, but one of my sons insists on using only one strobe, mounted on two arms on the left side of a compact housing tray.  That leaves his shutter release hand on the handle while he moves the strobe around.

He mostly keeps the arms and strobe folded over the camera while swimming around, so the floats are pretty centered, and then moves the strobe around when shooting.  he likes that setup because it is small and light and prefers it even though we have plenty of arms and floats and strobes around he could use.  For me, once I went to two strobes years ago, i have never given any thought to switching back, but i can work, at least for macro / macro-ish.

[JohnD]

I guess I should have said "arm segments" to be clear.  Both segments on the left-side handle.

 

 

[sacha]

On 3/5/2025 at 1:03 PM, Chris Ross said:

Fogging has to be caused by water inside the housing this can come from many sources, a common one being the drops of water clinging to an o-ring when you open the housing.  Make sure you mop up or blow off any water droplets before closing up again.   Closing a housing with a clamshell back can push some of that water in.  Blow out the inside of the housing with air from a scuba tank if possible, it will remove water as it is very dry before you test the housing.

 

It seems unlikley to me that there is any layer you could remove with a micro fibre and really can't think how that could impact anything.  They likely tell you to leave it alone to avoid scratches.  

 

Silica gel particularly small packs has a short life as it quickly absorbs moisture from the air.  It needs to be stored in an airtight container till you use it. 

 

You said it's an AOI housing?  do an extended vacuum test to check for leaks and works all the controls.  If it holds vacuum it should be water tight.  Air leaks in quicker than water.

Thank you for all the tips !
I have used multiple times recently with the vacuum check being on during the whole day (turning it on in the morning and off when getting back at the hotel) and haven't had an issue. But sometimes after getting out of the water and with the camera getting warmer I see some fogging. Now I need to have a look at when I might be letting water get inside.

 

On 3/5/2025 at 7:49 PM, JohnD said:

I did not read every post, so this may be redundant, but one of my sons insists on using only one strobe, mounted on two arms on the left side of a compact housing tray.  That leaves his shutter release hand on the handle while he moves the strobe around.

He mostly keeps the arms and strobe folded over the camera while swimming around, so the floats are pretty centered, and then moves the strobe around when shooting.  he likes that setup because it is small and light and prefers it even though we have plenty of arms and floats and strobes around he could use.  For me, once I went to two strobes years ago, i have never given any thought to switching back, but i can work, at least for macro / macro-ish.

Yes this is how I have been using it ! Quite happy with that solution.
Main gripes I have is that two strobes would be way better for wide angle (or I'm just bad at it) and also the floats on each arm segments tend to get in the way of each other and limit the mobility a little.