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Nauticam grease is the same of Tribolube/Cristolube. Get a good size tube and it will last for years. I load it up into 3ml needle-less syringes for home, and squirt it back into the little Nauticam tubes for travel use on the road. The Nauticam flip adapters are aluminum and can be removed by hand. The only tool I ever need is a microfiber towel to get a better grip. Like you I often dive two to three days a week. If possible a quick rinse of the rig at the dive site. (Rinse tank dip, bucket of water, shower, etc) I rinse and soak the housing in the sink after a day of diving. (Maybe an hour, maybe overnight) I pull the optical fiber plugs to remove any salt from those ports. Remove from sink, blow everything dry with a strong handheld blower, especially glass Take off the back to get the memory card and camera battery Wipe off the back o-ring ( never lube, rarely remove but rinse under faucet if visibly gritty) Remove and recharge strobe / spotting light batteries Very lightly lube o-rings of the same. (Almost never remove these) Reload all batteries. Port stays installed until I want to change lenses, then wipe o-ring and surfaces. Rarely lube. Close up camera and pull a vacuum before the next dive. Everything else with arms, clamps, removing o-rings, taking things apart I do only rarely or if the whole rig had a really rough week.

Thanks all. To be clear, I'm looking for ways to streamline the workload because I dive with the camera every second day, while still keeping everything healthy. Leaving the port on works, as does not lubricating the main O-ring after each diving day, which will save time compared to what I do with the clamshell. Removing the flip is a constraint, unless Nauticam's design is easier than AOI's (the AOI requires a special plastic tool to screw in the centre piece). I guess I'll have to find a balance, like removing it once a week or so. I'm familiar with ultrasonic cleaners as I used them for regulator servicing when I worked in diving. They're great, but at the moment I've been doing fine with what I have on hand for manual cleaning. I'll consider getting one in the long term. I'm curious. I know this has been discussed before, but I couldn't find a definitive answer. Is Nauticam's lubricant for grey silicone O-rings a PFPE/PTFE grease like Tribolube or Christolube?

Have fun! Summer vis can be variable. I hope it's fantastic! Be sure to order nitrox for you and your buddy! During my visit we had 50-100ft vis but only below 55 feet. 25-55 was close to zero. So all the diving was deep and my buddy was on air. I was on CCR. Let's just say my buddy ended up in deco on every dive with close to zero reserves!

Great shots and video. I'll be heading to Rendezvous Dive Adventures in a couple of weeks. Your photos and video have me pumped up for the trip. Nice work!

Looks like you had some nice viz and I really like the Mola Mola. Well done!

A dreamlike setting... Very nice video. Thanks for sharing

Very nice, thanks for sharing

I use a couple of different blowers as part of my routine. Milwaukee compact leaf blower immediately after removing housing from the rinse tank. Blow off excess water on housing and dome/port. M18™ Compact Blower (Bare Tool) | Milwaukee ToolMILWAUKEE® M18™ Compact Blower delivers the fastest jobsite cleanup. Offers a best in class power to size ratio and comes with a universal inflator/deflatorWolfbox MF200 to blow off o-ring moisture on lights, strobes, housing, ports. https://wolfbox.com/products/compressed-air-duster-mf200?

One easy upgrade to your gear maintenance is the purchase of an inexpensive Ultrasonic cleaner. There are good options in the 50-100:USD range. Great for cleaning clamps, flip adapters, crusty hose ends, regulator din screws, tank valves, etc. And they are great for cleaning jewelry, dental bite guards, and many other household items. I have been using this one for years: 2 liter https://a.co/d/01ACxkki

humu9679, you're welcome

Anything threaded gets attention daily. Ports stay on until changed. Main oring gets inspected and cleaned perhaps monthly unless looking sandy.

You might look at the wireless protocol used by Halcyon for their new CCR controllers. They seem to have both range and bandwidth. Likely proprietary and expensive however.

saga makes them in spain

I’m an old Olympus user.. now I’ve my old em1mk2.. i think it’s similar… i didn’t remember the menu voices but i always used a setting that boost the LCD screen… without any simulation… 😅😉

I’ve both, Nauticam lcd magnifier and Nauticam 45degree viewfinder… what I see trough the lcd magnifier is 2 times better than what I see trough the 45 degree viewfinder.. image is a lot bigger…. The only drawback of the lcd magnifier is that it’s almost straight and my neck didn’t like it anymore… but with that it’s a lot easier shooting macro also with cmc1… 😅😅😅

Thanks. I'll ease up on the housing o-ring. On the flip, yes, this seems to be important. I just checked and, as I feared, the AOI double flip has now fused to the LX10 M67 port... The AOI tightening/removal tool is a plastic ring with lugs that engage with indentations on the flip. There's no way it's going to budge now, and forcing it will just break the tool. Lesson learned: remove flips regularly... I'll definitely make sure to do that with the Nauticam triple flip, which is definitely not cheap.

Hei @atus any news on your Med BW?

Is this strobe lit or natural light? If it is consistent dialling in exposure comp in some manner - if you are using manual a bit higher ISO or slower shutter than what you would use based upon the whatever you use for feedback. For strobes crank it up as well. To be honest I often find shots a little under exposed (strobes for macro with manual SS/aperture) and the images take quite well to a bit of exposure boost in Raw processing if needed, it's really no different to boosting the ISO the same amount.

I agree with regular cleaning of clamshell o-rings, they need lubricating and things stick to them. You can get away with not lubricating surface o-rings. If you look at them when you open the housing you see small droplets of water clinging and that can transfer inside if you close up again. I would suggest you look at not lubricating your surface o-rings on the new housing and examine it critically each time you open it, checking for water droplets, maybe pull it to see if you are getting grit sticking to it. As for ports, I dive maybe once a week and tend to leave them in place unless I'm changing ports. I run the blower around close to the seam to blow out any water I can. I've been doing it this way for quite a few years and things remain in good shape. As for any threads screwed into m67 ports, I would suggest removing it and blowing it dry. I do that with my Nauticam bayonet adapter regularly Fine threads like that are a classic for seizing up. The need for demin water rinsing is probably debatable. I expect in hard water areas it may be worth doing, but not if the water is soft. Sydney luckily has quite soft water. For post glass keeping it wet till you can soak is my main objective.

I’d suggest a periodic rinsing and cleaning of any parts that needs screwing together. Galvanic action, salt accumulation etc can all have a gluing effect. I’d probably do that maybe once a week if diving really frequently

Yeah, on the watermarks there have been loads of posts over the years both here and on Wetpixel (RIP) offering solutions from white vinegar to Coke to a windscreen cleaner to Brasso. I think I’ve tried most of them. I don’t think any of them really worked (including cerium oxide). I’m left with the Chris Ross method. Rinse and wipe.

Thanks. I really don't plan on messing with the port o-ring unless I'm changing ports. I'll probably just check and clean it once a month or so. Good to know about the main o-ring. The NA-A1 housing o-ring is roughly four times the size of the NA-LX10 clamshell o-ring, which makes it much easier to inspect visually. Yes, port watermarks are annoying. On my LX10 they just won't come off, even with a light rub using a cerium oxide paste. But they're not visible in the footage when the port is wet, so I just try not to think about them. I'd like to avoid them on the new port, though, so I'll keep making sure no water is left to dry on it (even if it doesn't seemed to have fully avoided their appearance in my case). But yes, rinsing with demineralised water is really a hassle that I'd prefer to avoid if possible!