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I think he edited the post and it now has PNGs.

Strange I can see them in Chrome on a Windows laptop and when I inspect or download them they apear to be png images.

Can't see your pics. HEIC photos don't render on anything but an Iphone. My backup focus light is a Kraken 1500 I think, but uses a smaller 18650 cell. I've tried to standardize every light I have using 21700's to make travel and charging easier and run time is a lot better.

Bought this cheap Dive light Wurkkos DL05 for 50€ its bright enough to use has spot mode, but for video light its money out of the window. For video light too close to the subject is excessive bright in full power, all modes are inconsistent and are very concentrated in same spot Moving too far way the 81 angle is too narrow, even for use with Gopro. I've use it side-by-side with Divevolk LS50 and its night and day difference.. the Divevolk cost 250€ more, but worth every cent of it... Ive try every single angle, power, position but the Wurkkos has no other use besides spot mode.. For the 6000 lumens mode (spot + beam) the spot mode its too bright in center, for video light is useless.

Cheers - that is useful information for some image ideas that I am working on.

Dave, The Kraken 1800 WSR is a single button. It uses the single button to navigate between several modes. But in any mode, pressing the single command button twice quickly will place the light in auto-off (Burst) mode. I had previous the 1500 model and after much use it succumbed to corrosion and the lens gland leaked. My new one I shall endeavor to be more careful with it to clean it well. I have an Orca 710, it is a slightly larger light than the Kraken unit.

DaVinci Resolve Youtube channels I use. https://www.youtube.com/@LearnColorGrading https://www.youtube.com/@MrAlexTech

This is the reason I use a very simple single button focus light. I don't like the two button models that require two hands or any multi click arithmetic to change modes. My current OrcaTorch v710-2 cycles high, low, red, blue, off. No auto-off. Works great, wide beam, long run time on low, and i swivel it pointing up when not needed for snooting or shooting another diver portrait.

Probably about 1/4 power, level 2 on the dial. Here is one of a group of striped nudis (8-10cm each) devouring a Sea Pen. Shot with the curved port 60mm @ f14. Level 2 or 2.5 on the Maxis, using reduction rings.

Great, thank you - very useful indeed!

I've never seen the need at least with macro, at night you can use max sysnc speed as you are not trying to include any ambient light. For wide angle, if there's some ambient light, a low powered light helps, you usually don't need a bright focus light, mine is 700 lumens and I've used a 350 lumen light quite successfully, that low it's quite unlikely to show up unless your ISO is very high or very long shutter speed.

The point of the MFO3 with 60mm for me is that if a larger subject comes by i can shoot it without backing way up. The 60mm works quite well for small stuff. The MFO3 gives about a 35-37mm macro, the 30mm is not a substitute as even though it is 1:1 this is achieved about 10mm from the port glass. I've used the Pany 30mm and while it's nice particularly with slightly larger subjects the practical limit IMO is about 0.5x as it gets hard to light if you get any closer. On my local dive site the size range is extreme, from the 400mm long weedy sea dragon down to 10mm nudis and tiny pygmy pipe horses. The pipe horses sway in the surge and for me anything shorter than the 60mm is too limiting on approach angles to shoot them with decent magnification. For me the 45mm is a similar argument, it gets 1:1 and working distance is a bit shorter but acceptable, but woerking distance gets too short with a diopter - but for me if I don't need one on the 60mm , I certainly don't on the 45mm. But you can add the MFO3 to the 45mm and get something like a 26mm close focus macro lens for even wider fields.

The focus light is seldom visible in the photo. Especially when using red focus light it can be distracting, however. There are plenty of lighths in different strengths available with "Auto-Off" function. I do not see a reason to acquire one without this function... I have the precursor of the WeeFine 2600 Smartfocus lamp (I think it is now WeeFine 3500, but models have changed). "Auto Off" does not require anything additional, it can be used as a wholesome night dive lamp as well and, if necessary, it can serve as lamp for the occasional video...

Let's agree to disagree :-)

This is a perfectly valid point of view (= no AI whatsoever) and I certainly understand anyone who chooses this approach. I have always used technology to alter my pictures according to what I want to achieve. Red filters for dramatic skies on b/w film, polarizing filter for crystal-clear water on my Ektachrome slides, shading and burning when making prints in the darkroom … and the non-AI part of our image processing programs have a slew of sliders that can do all this and more. I see no harm in using an AI-tool to remove noise and improve sharpness/contrast. This does not alter the composition, it “only” makes the image look like I had a better camera and lens when I released the shutter. I think this is a much less invasive step than e.g. manually “stamping” away unsightly backscatter. I also have no problems declaring that I used the tool should that be asked for: I simply spent money on a software tool, rather than excellent & heavy glass. The results are very similar. Using AI to alter the composition, like removing objects or inserting a beautiful sky, is a very different thing. I am not ready for that kind of manipulation, even though I used the red filter back in the aRgentic days and of course I remove backscatter. I am also a big supporter of the EU rule that fully AI generated images now need to be marked. I have not bothered to find out whether a sky-swap falls into that category as well, but the touch-up I am doing certainly doesn’t (but no problem if it did). Most of the latest-generation camera bodies will have some sprinkle of AI in their jpg engines and our smartphones a lot more. It may become difficult to fully escape from AI at some point, but that remains nonetheless a valid goal. There is no good or bad in all of this, just personal preference.

Same doing as in the new topic... didn't work.

@RichN Here it seems to work

I didn't have any "File upload" option when I make a new post. To be sure that I didn't have a problem with the framework of the forum I try to post in the same way at Plongeur.com. It work well.

@Dave_Hicks with the Maxi's - what power levels are you typically using when doing macro shooting nudis etc using the Nikkor 105mm?

It requires a double push to activate the auto-off feature in any mode. LOL, I have to read the instructions every time I use the darn thing. But I like my Kraken 1800 WSR Focus Light and it works good. Or maybe it was a single quick push, darn it!

It was my go-to lens when I shot M4/3 and honestly I doubt anything else on any other system is quite as versatile. That said it was never particularly sharp and I personally am averse to using AI in any way.

It's noticeable for me at night. My Kraken light doesn't switch off although it's claimed to.

I have not used the MFO3, however the longer length should be easier to light than the 30mm. But that also come with a lot more bulk. The 30mm can also be used with the MWL-1 or Weefine equivalent which is a very versatile set-up (as can 12-50).