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Hi, how is the G165 performing? I got it for my new Mission 1 Pro because I was looking for a close up rather then a real macro but online I didn't find much info about that lens.

Also have a look if you can fit the RF28MM pancake prime behind your WACP.

So you insist on shooting f2.8 for low light underwater and that’s you goal ? Congratulations… expect dismal performance of your high $$$ gear! Cranking up the ISO a few stops will give you better results then spending tons of $$$ on one more camera or lens. If you are desperately in search for an F2.8 candidate try to get that Canon RF 28-70mm F2.8 IS STM running behind your WACP and maybe live with a slightly limited zoom range on the Tele end.

I just got the L10 as casual vacation camera with the idea to get the Nauticam housing, in a near future, to start with a bit more serious underwater photography. Till now I only used the TG-6, the Ace Pro2 and I will now use the GoPro Mission 1 Pro. So I am going to follow this threat to learn from you, since this level of housings/lenses is all now to me.

True. But I think also mainly due to the fact that companies such as Nauticam and their dealers are not willing to deal with smart-ass customers who will complain about vignetting in online reviews. As in this forum you will not find the average Joe I would like to offer you a more geeky take on this problem and a viable solution: As Canon RF shooters we have various optics that use digital lens corrections which are heavily debated online. This results in quite a few RF lenses that will not project a full image circle on a full frame sensor at their widest focal length, such as the RF 24-50 STM, but also highly-priced L lenses , such as the RF 14-35 F4 L and RF 20-50 F4 L. (sony with the 28-60 has the problem too, but nobody seems to talk about it) What can you do about this? 1.) Look beyond Canons zoom range values and get a WACP/Aquista lens candidate that starts at 24 or 20mm instead of 28mm, as these will usually project a full image circle on sensor when zoomed in. 2.) don’t get an L lens with a wide opened front glas, get the more lightweight grey non-L version of a RF lens instead, to avoid having issues peeking through a tight porthole. Here the best example is choosing the RF24-105 STM over the more expensive USM L version. You will not need / shoot the more wide open aperture when shooting underwater. 3.) be okay with not using the full zoom range, so the RF24-105 STM will not extend too much and not move the entrance pupil dramatically when zoomed from 24-70mm. Various land-based reviews of the Canon 24-105mm STM validate it as an ultra-sharp competitor and point out that it‘s worthwhile saving $1000 when choosing it over the constant more open aperture L version. On my Ivanoff Corrector Port I can use it up to 90mm, which makes it even more flexible. It has proven to be one of the sharpest underwater knives in my toolbox and I highly recommend it to underwater photographers and videographers. However it’s not listed in any of the manufacturers portcharts, probably for the above mentioned reasons. I encourage everyone to give it a go. The zoom gear that you purchase for an RF15-30 with your housing brand will also fit the RF 24-105 STM.

I don't know how much stock you place in DXO data, but here is a comparison of the R5 (mk I), R8 and Sony A1, they all seem pretty close in performance to me: DXOMARKSony A1 vs Canon EOS R8 vs Canon EOS R5 | DXOMARKThe Canon 24-50 kit lens is not the sharpest knife in the drawer and there have been several posts about its relatively poor performance. As far as AF performance goes the specs say the AF sensitivity on the R5 II is -6 - 21EV while the min for the A1 is -4EV, seems close but the devil is in the details of how they measure that. Probably best to see if you find some land based reviews to see what that means in real life as there are probably not many who have shot both underwater and with blue water pelagic experience. You could also ask a question on the forum about settings people use for sharks/whales in lower light on your R5 II to compare with what you do. Looking at things like AF mode - single vs continuous, various AF settings and which AF points you use etc. Also faster lenses should generally provide more light for AF assuming that AF occurs with the lens wide open. I see that the EF 28mm f1.8 and f2.8 primes are listed as working with the WACP 1B. Again on these optics there is an entrance pupil limitation, favouring slower lenses and my understanding is that this is why the range of lenses listed in the port charts is limited.

Hi, I hope for the best for you. Weather is always a issue in SA. Dived SA/Mozambique for several times. Always a lot of wind/waves/swells. Maybe you are lucky to get some great shots. Br Markus

Does the camera allow you to turn off lens corrections (in-camera) or is this one of those Canon lenses where lens correction is forced in camera? @JayceeB thanks for sharing the images. I think, the marelux 180 glass dome or their 210 acrylic will not add much volume or load and dramatically improve lens performance. I assume the freshly introduced Marelux Aquista 135D - which is Marelux‘s take on Nauticam‘s WACP lineup - will give you the highest image quality with that lens, @JayceeB . @WhoTippedMyCoW it was said that mx is launching that lens with adapters for various other housing brands, too. Worthwile watching that progression.

I fully agree that till today, the 360 cam are not ideal for the underwater use. I also have the X5 with both dive case, the normal and the Pro, but indeed none of them are really good. Actually the Pro, depending on the environment, could be even worst than the normal one due to much higher internal reflection on the dome, even if the images are more clear and sharper than with the normal one. To get the best out of them you have to handle them in a certain way, for instance by keeping the closure seam always aligned with the sun orientation, and excluding some portion of the 360 view when composing the video in post. My first time with the X5 and the Pro case, I didn't take into account the sun orientation but I was holding the camera thinking about framing and in fact, there are a lot of reflections. And I did minimize them in post, by careful framing otherwise it would have been much worst. In two weeks, I will be in Tenerife for a diving vacation and I will give it a last try to the X5 and the Pro case by trying to handle it properly and will see if it the end result will be more acceptable.

I got the Mission 1 Pro and the Inon lenses GR140 Pro and G165II. As ZD connection, I went for the Howshot because, as we know, Inon didn't release yet its own front mask for the Mission 1. But the one from Howshot is well build and it will serve the purpose well, at least until Inon will produce its own, later in the year. In two weeks, I am going to test the different setups but from what I've understood, the Mission 1 Pro seems to be very good without wet lenses, for the general shooting with underwater focus going from 50cm to 6m, which is the farthest you can go underwater anyway. Instead, the wide wet lens bring the focus closer to 10cm stopping at around 2m, maybe 2,5m, which it could create a nice cinematic look also underwater, when swimming close to reef and/or fishes. Since I am not into macro but close-up is the max I would go, I got the G165II but it seems I am the only one because I couldn't find anybody giving me a feedback on this lens. So I just have to wait two more weeks and see how this lens will perform with the Mission 1. I would expect to be somewhere in between a close-up and macro, considering what I heard about the Mission 1, so far.

The low light and metering are 2 concerns with the R5mii as well as dynamic range and hard to focus when scene is not contrasty enough. Norway with orcas is extreme lowlight conditions and I’ve seen good stuff from Sonys using wacp-c with 28mm lens so in theory the 20-50 would be ideal. With that said I know the wacp-c/1 work with 28mm so you would have to start there. For canon they may a zoom limiter for the 24-50 kit lens which blocks the 24-27 range. Also on R5mii you have a display at the bottom right corner which helps in this rare case if you do not have the limiter but it’s still annoying in a quick shot scenario. I have the wacp2 with canon rf14-35 and it sucks because vignetting and it’s honestly worked better behind a 230mm dome for me. The canon 20-50 f4 though seems like an interesting option but I still worry about the low light, metering and focusing issues when little contrast.

A few considerations on upgrading as you know the widest lens that doesn't vignette for the WACP series is 28mm so both of the 20-50 lenses would need to zoom into 28mm in operation and you can't just get there by turning the dial out you have to look to see you have got to 28mm. I could see this being an issue when trying to work quickly. Also neither 20-50 lens is on the WACP-C port charts as yet and particularly fast lenses might not work with the WACP-C, though the Sony 24-50 f2.8 is on the WACP-C port chart, but there appears to be a typo in the port chart and the line advising the zoom range is 28-50 seems to be missing. I believe they have a limit on entrance pupil size which impacts what lenses work in that system. Assuming you are looking at both lenses behind the WACP-C The WACP-1/1B includes the Sony 20-70 f4 lens, but most of the lenses for that optic are also kit lenses. What exactly is the concern with with the R-5II? I would have thought the sensor capabilities of the A1 and R5 II to be very close, Is there no option to cap maximum ISO when using auto ISO? It might be worth asking the question how Canon shooters handle blue water metering as well, could be a better option than a system switch?

Tiger @27mm. Dolphins @20mm.

1/250 sec at f/10, ISO 320 @45mm

Aloha everyone, I am an underwater photographer based in Oahu, Hawaii. I work as a professional shark diver and photographer currently. I shoot mostly blue water with the primary subjects being sharks and people. I also run trips for Orcas and Humpback Whales so looking for opinions on if I should switch systems. I currently use the R5mii with the 14-35 f4. I feel low it’s low light capabilities and metering give me issues in blue water so running auto iso is out of the picture as it wants to shoot extremely high. I have the wacp-2 and with the 14-35 it has vignetting in the corner so kind of defeats the purpose of using that lens. I do have the 15-35 as well. I am looking at buying the wacp-c and the 20-50 F4 lens that just released as that’s a way smaller setup to shoot and handle sharks with while giving me close focus and ultra wide fov. I got an offer for a good price on a Sony a1 setup and they have the 20-50 2.8 lens which seems interesting to me. Would be much smaller and that extra low light capabilities for Norway with orcas is huge. Has anyone used any of these cameras and the wacp-c setups that could give some insight to steer me one way. Feel free to msg me here, respond to this posts or IG@whotippedmycow Thank you for your time and happy 4th!

Has anyone used this with a wacp-c yet? I am debating buying it. Also debating switching to a Sony a1 for the 20-50 2.8 with wacp-c over my canon R5mii.

I did not add a diopter. I have been shooting this setup with 140mm dome and 30mm extension, which is the recommended port and extension for the EF 8-15mm fisheye. As I mentioned earlier in this thread, I was able to re-use the zoom gear from my RF 14-35. I've taken it on 5 dives and one offshore shoot for big animals. To be honest, I have been very surprised at how well it has worked in the tiny dome. I know the edges will not be acceptable for some, but for me, I am satisfied. I mainly shore dive, so lugging a bigger dome down rocky entries can be a handful, as well as exiting in rough conditions. There are definite dark corners without lens correction at 20mm, so lens correction is mandatory. This zoom range is very useful for most of my diving, and I think it may end up being a popular choice underwater use for some people. I have been able to shoot Harlequin shrimp (cropped) and dolphins on the same dive. I'll upload a few more shots at various focal lengths.

Yes. If I turn 'Enable Profile Corrections' to 'On', I get the banding. The banding is more exaggerated when zooming in. At 20mm, it is negligible.

I think that is the biggest hurdle in the dry and wet contact options (from both Nauticam and now Marelux). I would LOVE to see a variety of canon options and field reviews of those lenses. Or even just field reviews of 1 or 2 lenses (like the 15-30 at 30 on the fullframe) Nauticam just pushes most lenses up to the WACP-2 if shooting full frame. So while Sony and the 28-60 is the go too - us Canon shooters are left with a few meh options and no good field reviews for many options. Please no EF lenses....

Ciao Beppe, Welcome aboard! We hope you will enjoy the forum. Ciao

Off the Monterey and Pacific Grove waterfronts the underwater environment consists of kelp forest, rocky and sandy bottoms. Around the Monterey Peninsula, kelp forests have diminished by at least 80% compared to historical averages prior to 2014. However, even with this loss there is still some nice diving at Aumentos Reef off of Pacific Grove and off the Hopkins Marine Station near the Monterey Bay Aquarium. This two minute video is from two boat dives done in August, 2025. My dive buddy Cheryl ran a reel out from the anchor. One the way back, the reel fouled but she managed to wind the line onto the reel. She is resourceful in that way. Video was shot with a Sony A7IV, 28-60mm lens and a WWL-1 in a Nauticam housing.

I have the n100 to n120, I just wasn't sure if it would be too much extension by the time you add the n120 to Marelux adapter