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You can contact Saga Dive, as they can mill one for either a Seacam or Subal type 4 to Nauticam N120. They did Seacam to N120 for me last year.

Looking for a Nauticam 120 system adaptor to subal type 4 or Seacam for my hybrid system. Please send me a PM if you have one you can part with.

Hi Terri! 👋🏻

TTL is the way to go so thanks for making TTL work thru more stobes

I'm in Bali for month shooting under water- (Tulmaben area)I'll keep a look out.

Hi, Anyone interested in 2 BigBlue 9" Jumbo Float Arms? Dia. 90 x 228mm weight above water: 349g each, buoancy lift: 697g each Asking for 120€+shipping from Europe

Thanks... So if I put a 1.4x/2x on. I can shoot something further away... Then... If I then add in a wet lens... I will have to get closer... I am thinking of faster moving object that I can't really get too close to use the 1.4x/2x. If I see a subject like a lovely calm nudi... I can still pop on a wet lens to get details....

This is interesting, My old housing had 2450 cells they seemed to last forever, but my OM_1 uses 2032 cells, not sure why they would reduce the size, not exactly short of space, maybe as it's the same cell used in air tags?? The 2032 cell seems to be fine for an extended trip, I left it on for 3 days before opening at on epoint and did about 20 dives over 6 days and continued using it for local diving afterwards. Sounds like your Z8 is worse? IF you are indeed getting that sort of life it seems like a good option and worth trying out.

why not using float arms? either dedicated float arms or the stix styled options

Welcome to the forum, good to have you here, feel free to post away with any questions.

Oyyyyy, I’m so very sorry to read this, maka0n. I can guess how much care and thought you’d put into the system. Especially upsetting when people take advantage of an emergency. I hope you can get some insurance back. But even then the sense of loss is huge. Sorry, mate. 😔

Hey Klaus Yeah, the temptation to go and grab is huge. But the more I see of the blaze, especially seeing various videos after taken from different angles, the more I realised DONT DO IT. I stopped beating myself up that I didn’t try to at least grab passports and phones Gear replacement: have to say I’m agonising. I loved my setup, built over 19 years. It was pure muscle memory to use. Yes, mirrorless. Maybe M43. The cost to start from scratch is huge of course (yep, some insurance refund) and at my stage in life, I do question whether it’s worth it. Early days though. I’m not sure I appreciated quite the shock such events create and decision making becomes a bit hazy. One other thing I learned: life without a mobile phone is very difficult to say the least. Rebuilding a mobile phone is a not easy even with a backup when the SIM etc is gone and you’re not in your own country. I’d suggest making sure you have log in details for eg Google or Apple accounts committed to memory so you can at least get the numbers of your friends and family. Who remembers peoples phone numbers now? They’re all in your phone…..

I'm using a Nauticam 5Dmiii housing setup with a 180mm dome, dual strobes, and a Kraken 7" UltraBright monitor. I can get the rig close to neutral buoyancy overall, but the trim is pretty far off. The dome is highly positively buoyant and wants to rotate upward, while the monitor is about 560 g negative and pulls the back of the rig downward. I’m thinking the best approach may be to remove floats from the arms, add buoyancy underneath or around the monitor to lift in the back which will push the front dome down, and possibly add a small amount of weight (wheel weights) under the dome to help balance the rotation. Since the system will eventually be used on a scooter, I’m also considering a buoyancy collar around the extension ring both for trim and potentially improved hydrodynamics. Does anyone have recommendations for: -The best foam/material to add buoyancy under or around the monitor -Suggestions on attachment methods to the monitor -Any experience balancing similar large-monitor DSLR rigs for DPV use, or if anything I mentioned is a bad idea One option is to epoxy strix floats to the back/bottom of the monitor but figured there must be a more elegant and less perminant way. I typically use the monitor in this position. Perhaps moving the monitor over the dome would help, not sure on how that would effect hydronamics or viewing the screen while on the scooter. I am setup for photos not video and enjoy using a monitor even if it's for photos.

Bummer! Sorry for your loss!

Dave, Thanks. The balance on my whole rig is fine, but I would like to leave my clamps a little looser to more easily reposition them and have them stay. My thought is that if I could make the strobes a little more neutral I could could reduce the clamping force. I looked at the HF-1s today and am rethinking--instead of foam all the way around which might make positioning the strobe close to the port, maybe a block of foam bolted to the HF-1 using the mounting screws for the ball mount? I need to do some calculations, but I'm thinking 3/4" thick by 3" x 6" should be close to a 1/2 pound positive. Evan

In case you see or are approached with a an offer for a Nauticam OM1 rig: About 2 months ago I have lost a whole OM1 rig during an underwater emergency while diving East Bali (Tulamben). Setup was slightly positive hence it was drifting in the water. Despite my and my friends efforts here, we have been met with a wall of silence from the local community, nobody had seen or found anything. Or so it had appeared. As it turns out, camera was very quickly found (or possibly fished out straight away, while we were still in the water, as it has disappeared suddenly while we were being bombarded with fishing lines from the shore). I was only able to recover the strobes + a couple of 70mm arms just yesterday, and that is only due to these being sold by a local who kept part of the "loot" (and urgently needed money for a religious ceremony) to another local who in turn brought it to a resident photographer here in Amed to help him clean and sell it (claiming it was a "gift from a guest"). Unfortunately according to him, the rest has been long smuggled to/via Jakarta for sale via extended family of some locals. Hence If you hear about any Nauticam OM1 being sold in the general APAC region (or could be beyond), the chances are it is this one... What is still missing: Nauticam: OM1 housing with M14 Vacuum Valve II Port 45 Extension ring 20 Diopter Holder Carbon Arms 90mm x2 Bayonet holders for 90mm arms x2 OM SYSTEM: OM1 body Olympus 60mm Macro lens with 3d printed zoom gear Turtle: o-TURTLE 2 SMART TTL trigger for Olympus / Panasonic ULCS: 4 short clamps 3 long clamps Mares: EOS 4rz torch with ball mount Inon UCL-165M67 diopter Misc: 2 black neoprene covers for the strobes Handmade bright orange strap with two xDeep snapbolts SABRENT Rocket V60 256GB UHS-II SD Card x2 1st picture of the whole rig below (from the fatal dive, taken by my teammate GoPro). 2nd picture from another dive with a 14-42/WWL configuration. It had a very distinctive orange strap on top (or what I now think of a perfect hooking up point for a fishing hook....). Naturally I do have serial numbers of most of the parts as well as invoices for those.

I have two HF-1's almost since they came out. At the first dive I was shocked by the torque that the (UW) heavy strobes produced on the rig (Nauticam/Sony A7R5), but coming from Z-330 I was used to place most floats on the inner arms. Since I place more floats on the outer arms no problem any more, everything is fine, no need to overtigthen the clamps... I never considered TTL, but I find it useful that with the Backscatter trigger for Sony I can switch to HSS just by switching the flash from "Manual" to "HSS", without any further adjustment on the camera...

I was looking at the Maxi's for an upcoming trip to Galapagos, but honestly, the HF-1's are likely going to be my answer. Having shot the HF-1's using my TLC arms and clamps I have not noticed the need to overly tighten them in the water. It might be the o-rings on your ball mounts(?) The TTL thing doesn't bother me at all - I never shoot TTL (although my daughter, shooting a Sony A7RV, used it extensively with a single HF-1 earlier this year with the new trigger - worked flawlessly, easily delivering really good TTL results). The ability to easily control an off camera Mini Flash was a great benefit shooting macro (and snooting).

I have understood that all Backscatter strobes are made by AOI. But i could be wrong.

Dear Tim, I‘m glad to read all this from your own writing and not as an obituary. I will be pondering this for a while. It‘s an expensive hobby with equipment, travel and diving costs - I would be very, very tempted to go and grab the stuff (in particular the memory cards!). One tends to forget that the most important Megapixel is a beating heart. Glad you showed us a good example. That said, have you already thought about the new gear? Mirrorless after all?

I saw someone with something like this, maybe on a Kraken strobe? A molded HD foam attachment for the strobe. But I think you can do just as well with some Jumbo Stix floats on the outer arms. When I put on the Retra Maxi strobes to replace my HF-1s, the rig was out of balance and too buoyant. I removed two Jumbo Stix blocks and everything was back in balance. While the HF-1s are more negative for sure, it's not that big a difference or difficult to balance out.

I saw a post that mentioned how negatively buoyant the HF-1 strobes are in the water, and how tight clamps need to be to secure them. While this is something that hasn’t bugged me too much, it did make me wonder if there is some way to wrap the body of the HF-1s with rigid float material to make it more neutral? I think I saw something from Marelux or Mares that used floats and a strap for dome ports or strobes, but I can’t find it now. Has anyone tried something like this? Is it a dumb idea (I know the heat sinks need to be exposed, but it seems like there’s still space to strap on ~ 0.5 lb of positive float material)? Thanks, Evan

Maybe the message is that you need new Retra Maxi strobes? The problem for me with the HF-1 is are two fold. They are very negative in the water, enough so that my clamps have to be overly tight to prevent the strobes from not falling down. Second, they have proprietary (RC) TTL that only works with the TG series cameras and I guess the OM1? May work with some Sony cameras but uses a proprietary trigger that will not fit in my housing which already has a UWT trigger. Backscatter could not have told their China box factory to add a universal TTL mode? Does not work with my Canon either. Same thing with the Atom. Cannot have a standard TTL mode? I have now used my new Retra Maxi strobes in the pool on practice subjects and found that the TTL works quite well with both my Canon and Sony. Yes, I mostly shoot in manual strobes mode but having TTL is a solid requirement for me because there are times I want to shoot TTL. And the Maxi is essentially neutral ln the pool and possibly slightly buoyant in salt water. I do not have to tighten my clamps down to support them.

Hi guys I’m looking for one of these housings — preferably the Sony Alpha 7C II or the Sony Alpha 7R V. Please let me know if you have one available :)