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I’m also not sure about the video lights for still photos. You might consider just getting one strobe to start out. The Atoms sound great, but you can also do all right with used Inon z240s/330s, Retras or something similar. The wide angle wet lens is a must.

Thanks for the response. UWCameraStore also explicitly states that it works with "Sony TTL (HSS)" and maybe more importantly the backscatter HF-1 which uses the same protocol as the atom and MF-3.. So I'm inclined to believe it does in fact work without the added trigger. Frustrating that backscatter support wasn't more helpful and specific in answering the question. They probably spent more time emailing me an unsolicited sales invoice for something I was always going to buy from the web store, than they did researching the issue.

From what i can see, the AOI housing is custom made to fit only the AOI HSC-03 trigger that is supplied with the housing. You can see the very tight fit here, leaving no space for any other trigger. Other thing is that the housing has custom pins that connect the trigger to the LED's baked in the housing. And these you dont find in any other trigger. But AOI does say that it supports Sony TTL, so i think it should work. And Backscatter strobes are made by AOI.

Hello, I'm upgrading my system and trying to get to the bottom of flash triggers. I will be pairing an AOI UH-A7CII housing with Backscatter Atom flashes. The atom listing says they accept Sony TTL signals, and the AOI housing manual under "Flash control" directly states "Sony TTL (Auto HHS)." So I asked AI if I needed the backscatter trigger for TTL, and it said yes. Then I asked Backscatter, and they said no. Then I asked Backscatter if the AI was wrong and they said actually no, their mistake, I would in fact need the Backscatter trigger. I'm just trying to understand why the housing would state Sony TTL is supported, and the flash would say it supports Sony TTL, but those two things wouldn't be able to talk to each other. Maybe it's a case of no good information existing publicly for some newer products, but I'd love to be able to save $500 and the added bulk of the BS trigger if it's not needed. Does anyone have a similar system that can confirm one way or the other?

Many Nauticam users are already using the N120 to N100 35.5 so it will be linked to demand for N100. I suspect it will come in N100 but no conformation at this time.

There will be an N100 adapter eventually?

I have sent your lens suggestions to the design team for consideration and they are in the process of additional lens testing. Also be aware that adapter rings for Nauticam and Sea & Sea are ready to ship so that the Aquista 135D can be used with those housings. Adapters for subal , seacam , hugyfort and Isota will also be coming. These adapters also allow the use of many Marelux ports and extensions on the listed housing brands. For Nauticam I believe N120 will be coming first.

Easy is the point. Tribolube PTFE is safe and compatible with all orings. Silicone lube is not and can damage or cause leaks.

I am sure lenses will be added and removed as we get user feedback. For Sony I will be trying the 28 F/2, Rokinon 28-60 F2.8 and a few more.

Bump.

Thanks for all the input, I really appreciate it! Being new to editing I'm mostly lost on the initial color wheel stuff. I'll automate that in Pixelmator pro, then automate the individual saturation/brightness and adjust those sliders to try and make something that doesn't leave the subject too washed or blown out. Mostly I'm guessing on how colors actually expose. My project file corrupted but here's an example of how the color automation was set early in the edit.

You know, these days, 50 yo is barely grown up.

Unfortunately all those devices (using the 555 timer) work only if the powered device is on. So, in this case if you shut down the camera the keep alive device doesn't send the pulse. As tou wrote he could connect the keep alive on another port but it need a minimum resistance load as a small led or a resistor. Edit: Another test to be done is using the camera sleep functionality instead of powering it off. """Maybe"""" the small amount of current drawn is enough to keep the power bank awake.

Apparently Anker power banks have a trickle charge mode designed to keep low power devices active, you could try to see if you can activate it on yours perhaps though it says it only last two hours. Most applications for always on power banks seem to be to run low power devices which use less power than the bank cut off level. There are keep alive modules available but they only seem to work with lower power devices and not compatible with PD. It might be possible to plug one into a power bank and draw your PD current through a separate port?

Hi Kevin Final edits and colouration is such a personal thing. For me, the framing is good. I like the increasing light towards the surface which locates the subject nicely. Again, for me, the divers draw the eye away from the subject without adding to the story the picture tells. I’d edit them out. And, yet again, very personally, I find the oranges a little over-saturated. I’d tone them down slightly. All that said, new to editing? 👍🏼👍🏼

New to editing and open to all criticism!

Thanks @TimG you make some good points. I’ll be using it as sold to start with so I guess I should do the sensible thing and see if I need to go wider before buying a conversion lens 🙂

The Inon one is noticeably different in viscosity compared to Sea & Sea, more solid. Similar to Hugyfots. Nauticam (white in tube) seems like it could be the same as S&S (transparent in tube), difference in color which might mean nothing. All these damn tubes and containers. Feels somehow wrong to buy even more grease when I already own a life supply, but it would make things easier for sure.

Christopher Frost says in this video at 7:10 timecode that the black corners disappear at 24mm focal length:

Looking at the MFD data of that lens the 140mm should be too small,… did you add a diopter to the front of the lens to compensate for it? I think the 180mm MX dome or the giant MX fisheye dome will perform better concerning corner sharpness. Also the new MARELUX Aquista 135D and this lens look like they will magic. @JayceeB could you upload a lens image taken of a white wall (land-use), with deactivated lens corrections in Lightroom to see if there is a full image projection to the corners or if they are black @ 20mm focal length ? Also if without lens correction you have black corners, at what focal length will they disappear? ( 22m , 24mm , 26mm , 28 mm)

Whow that’s strange! Does this happen when you turn lens corrections in Lightroom ON or OFF ?

That’s great compact looking news. Looks like 2026 is the year in which the high-end underwater optics monopoly is finally broken up. I took a quick glance at the Aquista 135D port chart and the Canon selection of lenses is still very limited. „Must-have Candidates“ that I would love to see listed: Canon RF 20-50mm F4L IS USM PZ most important new candidate! Canon RF 24-105mm f4-7,1 IS STM (will need a zoom limiter, but Marelux RF15-30 STM zoom gear fits this lens) Canon EF 28-70mm f/3.5-4.5 II (the historically best Canon Zoom lens recommended for use with the Nauticam WACP-1, costs just approx $70 in the used market and needs a Canon RF-EF Adapter to work) Canon RF 24-50mm f4,5-6,3 IS (dismal lens, but the noobs love it, so MARELUX gotta list it for completeness; as it will very likely work) Canon RF 28-70mm F2.8 IS STM (very likely to work)

No worries, glad it helps. And yes, it slipped my mind, but Smiling Seahorse is definitely photo-centric! They're also spearheading blackwater diving in the area and do trips up to Myanmar. The Deep Andaman Queen is also a great operator. Steve has been doing this for a long time in the area and is really good (and they also go all the way to Myanmar on some longer trips) These are both great recommendations. I'm not familiar with Vela, however.

@bghazzal thank you! This is very helpful! A couple live-aboards that look appealing to me are the Andaman Queen and Vela, both look pretty posh, but no idea how photo-centric they are. Someone recommended Smiling Seahorse as a good photo-centric boat—definitely seems more basic accommodation but it could be ok if there are good photo guides and I can get a single room without paying for two people.