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I was thinking about ordering a new batch of cable to Seattle. I could order a bunch and ship some off to wherever. I will be heading to canada in two weeks and could drop some in the mail. Probably 6 meters minimum. I was considering about $200 worth which is around 25-30 meters. Also, i just updated my connector design and they are better than ever. Happy to share some of these too.

Wow, thanks for pointing that out @Grantmac ! I wasn't aware of this and you're right, it's not expensive at all! Perhaps this will be my next upgrade since it'll not arrive in time for my Maldives trip!

The Kraken USB port is not expensive and then you need not open anything under vacuum.

I have a seafrogs 8in dome and it's extremely buoyant! I bought a few things from Aliexpress to test out and see if I can DIY a trim weight "thing". I decided to create a DIY thing because I didn't want to add stress on the port (I have a budget seafrogs thing, so I didn't want to risk anything with the integrity of their already cheaper than big brands materials. I know that Ikelite sells a trim weight "system" but I think the main cons of that setup is that you cannot sit your housing down flat unless you remove the trim weight. So I'm exploring a way to have a quick release mount for the whole trim weight "thing". I'm ordered a combination of stuff: 1. Drop-in quick release: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003763408928.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.40.72c418020eyXO5 2. Z tripod head: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008154501496.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.10.72c418020eyXO5 3. Camera bracket: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010258279569.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.25.72c418020eyXO5 And here's what I envision will happen: 1. Drop-in quick release connecting my tray to the Z tripod head (this part is just so it's easy to remove the whole "weight thing" on the boat 2. Z tripod head so that I can adjust the angle of the weight depending on the port extension I'm using 3. Camera bracket to hold the weight with hand-screws to make adjustments underwater

Thanks for responding guys! So, yes, as @Chris Ross said - I was thinking about my solution of opening just the bulkhead instead of the backside for this exact reason. In South East Asia some times we do surface intervals on boats (and those boats could be those "thai long tail boats" if you can relate or random beaches - opening up the whole back part of the case can be tricky when it's wet, a small space to work in on the boat, or sand on the beach. Hence why I thought opening the bulkhead would make charging the camera / clearing the memory card during surface intervals a lot easier since its a small opening. So instead of: finding a table, finding somewhere clean to put the backside of the housing, plugging in the USB / removing the camera to charge / transfer files then making sure 2 large o-rings are clean, vacuum pump test and dive again With this solution: I just need to put my entire housing into some "cooler bag" I have, open the bulkhead, pull out the USB cable, charge / transfer files then make sure the small o-ring is clean, vacuum pump test and dive. Anyways, I bought some cables and tiny velcro tape strips to try this - will let you know it goes!

I completely agree with @Pooley . Selecting and using the right focus mode for that specific subject or condition is the key. Even choosing the correct size of the spot focus point can impact the result, especially for the tiniest of macro subjects. Some are blessed with great eye sight which allows them to successfully use manual focusing. Sadly, I am not one of those which means I must rely on the camera’s focusing to do the work. The right focus settings for each frame are critical. Yes, the Sony 90 has a bad reputation of slow focus or hunting. When I moved from the a7rIV to the a1 it was a dramatic improvement! I’ve seen all other newer models also perform quite well with the 90. Part of the focus hunting is also simply the nature of any macro lens vs. a wider lens. I find the same even in nature photography above the waves. Lastly, where possible make multiple images of the same subject. I frequently find that perhaps a frame will miss while another one in the same position will lock and provide the sharp focus needed. Again, not just with the Sony 90, but with macro photography in general. Cheers! Chip

Just pushed a new release that fixes a bug with writing the dive data to the exif data to dng files and added auto safty stop detection which works reasonably well The green bar will turn yellow to red as safety stop time goes under 3 mins.

I second Johan’s comment on using a focus light…

I think it kind of depends, for example say you are diving in Lembeh, well known for black sand getting all over everything, it's probably quicker to clean up the o-ring on the seal plug than pull the o-ring and service it particularly on a clamshell style housing. It's about the same as what you would do on a bulkhead which is also o-ring sealed. I agree though that a bulkhead is a better solution if you can source it.

Getting hold of this cable seems a regular problem. Seems impossible to find in Europe too. If you know someone in the US who could get it shipped to them from the US supplier then mail it to you in Canada..... could that work?

I have uploaded a test mac os build to the v0.3.31 release. Unfortunately I'm not able to test it only using a PC

Sorry to dredge up an old thread, but I found this quite interesting. I went on the hunt tonight for some 613 core cable in Canada, but alas the only distributor I was able to find that deals with Asahi kasei does not import their mcq-1000. Any chance any other Canucks on here have happened to find a supplier? Shipping to Canada for 5m was $55, which would be a hard pill to swallow.

Why would that help? You need to pull vacuum again anyways, so why not just open the backside, connect a USB cable to the camera and do what you need? I rarely remove my camera from the housing, just open the back, connect a cable, pull files and let it charge. Charges quicker than my strobe batteries, so I just let everything run over night (unless its 4 or 5 dives a day, then I switch batteries). If you want to build a waterproof bulkhead for remote control, that works with some limitations and requires some new parts

Hi Mike, technically there's no reason why it can't work on a mac, I unfortunately don't have a mac I can test it on though, happy to try to compile a mac version if you don't mind being an alpha tester?

Welcome from Pleasanton!

You can download the manual for the strobe from the S&S site now, it has a bit of information about the batteries in it. The battery looks just like the battery from a Canon DSLR/mirrorless the LP-E6P - not saying it is but the locking tabs etc look the same, the S&S battery has a nearly 50% higher stated capacity than the Canon LP-E6Pbattery though. It seems the Li-ion battery comes with the Pro model. The features and details of the strobe look quite familiar to the prior S&S models. Download link here: https://www.seaandsea.jp/support/download/manual/manual_en_03133_ysd130r.pdf

I love this concept. Im a dive log and metadata nerd and currently work a bunch of plug-ins between MacDive and Lightroom (with a lot of manual entry). love to try this out. But is it not available for Mac?

For new strobes I vote for AOI, there is a very neat new snoot for the AOI that has a variable iris, not little sliding plastic bits (but no star or heart😃) Bill

Just get an MF-2 or 3. They are much better while sharing what was great in the Miniflash form factor.

Housing only no ports or vacuum valve. Mint condition.

Aloha and welcome Anton!

Thanks again for the info. I guess what I'm most afraid of is getting in the water with tons of people, just doesn't seem like fun. I get the life vest thing, because it helps them police the snorkel rules. It sounds like Isla Mujeres has lots of whales participating and its close. Thanks

Yes, she did that, but unfortunately, it didn't really help. The MF-1 is known for its sensitivity issues anyway. I had similar problems when the MF-1 first came out, even with the old Nauticam trigger for Sony. The cable had to be top-notch, and it didn't take much for it to start acting up. I then got an MF-2 as a replacement, and the problems disappeared. I think the combination of the new trigger and the MF-1's relatively low sensitivity is causing the problems here. I'm pretty sure the flash itself isn't working quite right anymore either. She used it quite a lot. Let's see what Backscatter has to say about it.

Selling a pre-owned Nauticam WACP-1 and N120 extension ring for a friend. I have personally used this item with terrific results! This revolutionary underwater optic provides edge-to-edge corner sharpness. It is widely recognized for its incredibly sharp images, especially compared to a traditional dome. Designed specifically for underwater use, it greatly expands the Field of View to as much as 130 degrees while also providing a substantial zoom range. It is especially remarkable for Close Focus Wide Angle (CFWA) and ultra close focus capabilities. I have literally focused on a starfish arm while being a just millimeter away from it! Common lenses used include the affordable Sony 28-60 f/4-5.6 and Nikon 28-70 f/3.5-4.5 High-priced lenses are not needed with this unique pro-level optic! The Nauticam port charts showing the various lens options is here: https://www.nauticam.com/pages/mobile-port-charts Condition: This WACP-1 has been well cared for both during dives and after. The glass is clean. The body shows typical water spots, common on Nauticam aluminum products. The front hard cap has some common scuff marks. The included clip allows the cover to protect the glass during entry and exit, and then be securely attached to your BC during the dive. Includes: - WACP-1 (NA-85201) Note - this is the original N120 design - Front hard cap w/ clip - Rear body cap - O-ring and Nauticam grease - Carry case - Price New - $4820 - Selling Price - $2995 (almost 40% off new!!!) Also selling a Nauticam N120 Extension Ring 35 (NA-21135) - Note - this is the extension needed for the Nikon 28-70 lens - Price New - $439 - Selling Price - $325 Terms: - All prices are net - PayPal fees and shipping not included - Continental US buyers only Please reach out with any questions. Thank you for looking!

Did you try cleaning the optical port with a q-tip? The MF-2/MF-3 strobes are a big improvement over the MF-1 in almost every way. Very reliable and functional.