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There were certainly a number of reports some years ago of issues around the Sea & Sea D2 strobes. At the time some users thought the D2J resolved the problems. I don’t think there have been an unusual number of problems reported with the D3.

I don't know the details because I have never used it, but I believe there are ways to use the 12-50 lens in a 65 port without the expensive gear. Also deepshots in the UK offers a gear for that lens under $100, although I am unsure what it can do. I suspect others here can explain all of this. I have always heard far more enthusiasm for the Panasonic 14-42 mega (not the collapsing PZ) with the wwl than any of the other lenses for this purpose, but I have not compared them. That lens requires the 35 flat port. That port, with either a 10mm or 30mm extension ring then works with the various 30, 45 and 60mm macro lenses for the M43 system. In other words, with just the 35 port and the 30mm ER, you could shoot with the WWL or the 45 macro or 60 macro, saving a bit of $ on ports and less to pack for travel. Just something to think about.

From what I understand, there were a lot of issues with the D2 when it came out, which was mostly resolved with the D2j release. All I can say is I've been diving S&S strobes for 20+ years, starting with YS-25a's, then a pair of YS-110a's for many years, and now with D3's for the last few years. I personally have never had any issues, following normal maintenance, o-ring inspection and lubrication, and storage practices.

Been to Cozumel many times and never paid a tax including twice last year. However, there is a report now on Scubaboard of two persons paying upwards of $500. Per this (sketchy) report one had two systems and the other had a nauticam, a GoPro and a camera with a phone!. Here is the thing, I have been asked how many cameras I have and my answer is an honest one camera. If I start going on about a GoPro, a phone and whatnot who knows what the result might be. Also, I have not gotten the "red button" in any more recent trips. Another unknown.

As what will likely be my final follow-up on this matter: I never heard back from AOI. However, after exchanging with Fantasea, they reviewed the situation, and informed me they had discussed my case with AOI and directed me back to AOI, who would try to assist in a more suitable way. My previous email to them had not received any response, but I emailed AOI again after the Fantasea update. I followed up more than once before finally receiving a reply. The response I eventually received from AOI was as follows (quoted in full for transparency): Thank you for your continued follow-up and patience regarding the UCL-50LF diopter (Serial Number: UL30012889). We appreciate your clarification that Fantasea has referred you back to AOI, and we’d like to formally align on the service framework for this product. As previously communicated, this model is exclusively distributed and supported by Fantasea’s global sales & after-sales network. While AOI does not directly provide end-user support for Fantasea-distributed products, we are willing to offer a one-time technical service as a goodwill gesture, subject to the following terms: Service Quotation & Terms Inspection & Cleaning Fee: US$120 (covers initial assessment, disassembly, and cleaning of internal fogging/traces). This fee is non-refundable, even if additional repairs are declined. Parts & Additional Repairs: If inspection reveals damaged components (e.g., seals, optics) requiring replacement, we will provide a supplementary quotation with part costs and labor fees. Spare parts are sourced exclusively for Fantasea-authorized services, and we cannot sell parts directly to end users. Shipping Responsibilities: You are responsible for all inbound shipping costs, insurance, and customs clearance to Hong Kong. We recommend using a trackable courier (e.g., DHL, FedEx) to avoid loss. Return shipping costs (to Japan) will be quoted separately upon completion of service, and must be settled before shipment. Warranty: The service includes a 3-month warranty only for the specific issue addressed (internal fogging/cleaning). It does not extend to new damages, normal wear, or unrelated component failures. Holiday Schedule: Our technical facility will be closed for the New Year holiday from next week until end of Feb. All incoming units received will be processed operation resume. Please account for this extended timeline when planning shipment. Next Steps (If You Wish to Proceed) Confirm your acceptance of the above terms via reply email by Feb 10, 2026 (to ensure we can log your request before the holiday). **** I replied that in my view, a non-refundable USD $120 inspection and cleaning fee before any parts, additional labour, return shipping, or customs fees are even considered is not a reasonable or good-faith solution, and could not really be called a goodwill gesture... Once international shipping to Hong Kong, return shipping to Japan, customs handling, VAT, and potential additional parts are included, the total cost necessarily exceeds the retail price of a new UCL-05N. In practical terms, this offer means paying more than the cost of a new lens simply to enter an open-ended repair process with no upper cost ceiling, which is economically irrational, especially since the proposed structure guarantees that repair exceeds replacement value. AOI then offered to reduce the inspection fee by US $6, from USD 120 to USD 114, with all other terms unchanged. Shipping, customs, labour and any additional parts remain excluded, and same limited three-month warranty. I explained that a USD 6 reduction does not alter the underlying economics. The repair path remains more expensive than replacement, for a lens that was designed and manufactured by AOI (references to distribution structure or co-branding do not change that). I will not proceed under these terms and consider the matter unresolved. There has been no further response from AOI. *** The practical outcome is that I am left with no viable repair option, only a process that costs more than buying a new lens. To be clear, I was not asking for free service, but for a solution that reflects basic fairness, proportionality, and an understanding of customer experience. This could have taken the form of a significantly reduced replacement cost, a refurbished unit, a capped repair fee clearly below the price of a new lens, or another concrete solution that does not place the customer in a worse position than simply discarding the product. Frankly, I do not understand how a company can consider this an acceptable way to handle a product issue. From a customer standpoint, this is not support. It is a mechanism to formally close the case without providing a viable outcome. Caveat emptor.

Sea&Sea seems to have quite a bit of chatter around reliability/durability but unclear to me how much is because they've sold so many of them. That is a very attractive price, I was pretty tempted by the specs of the Marelux S's but I don't know anyone who uses them, but that could change the equation a fair bit.

This is interesting. it looks like a direct knockoff of Nauticam on many of the features.

I shoot an A6100, in a Nauticam A6400 housing, with the Tokina 10-17 or Zeiss Touit 50mm macro. I use a pair of YS-D3's and they're excellent. The snoot is great for macro, and they're plenty powerful for WA, especially with the dome diffusers. You can also get them for $500 a piece from divervision in japan. Sea&Sea YS-D3 DUO Strobe – DiverVision Underwater Photo Equipment

I'd be interested in some experiences and thoughts on mid-range strobes. Right now I am shooting with a Sony A6400 in a Seafrogs / Salted Line housing which I will eventually upgrade, I'd rather upgrade the strobes first, but am uncertain if I would stick to a mirrorless/APC or look to upgrade to FF, as I do prefer a smaller rig overall. Most commonly I shoot with the Sony 10-18mm rectilinear lens behind a 6" dome or a converted Tokina 10-17mm fisheye, so focused on wide angle without any great interest in macro, at least not yet. Most of my diving is local, however I'd still like to be able to travel reasonably easy given I do take the occasional trip and liveaboard. I have only used old secondhand Sea & Sea strobes (YS-110a and YS-27) in manual so almost anything will be an upgrade. In general my preference is for smaller/lower weight, <=$1000 USD per strobe and reasonable power to support wide angle shots in the context of my current system. I would prefer 18650s or other Li-ion batteries, but I do already have plenty of NiMHs from my existing strobes so it isn't a major consideration. With that in mind the three strobes that have got my attention are the following, but also open to others; Sea&Sea YS-D3 Marelux Apollo S Backscatter Atom Outside of the obvious spec differences, any particular other items to share on light quality, ease of use, etc.? Given the long timeframe so far I'm going to assume Inon 'Z335' still isn't going to be available any time soon.

Well greetings, old chap - and a jolly warm welcome to our august forum (another stereotypical greeting, eh 😉) Really great to have you with us, ubiquitous (there's a user name that takes some careful spelling.)

Port 65?? Umh.. I have already port 45+20mm ring… it would be interesting if I can use my port! Thanks for the idea.. Ps: after thinking at this idea I checked the price of the Nauticam zoom gear for the 12-50.. 😱😱😱😱 it cost like the wwl1….. a little too much 😬😬

Grazie Davide… for the moment I’ve only the wwl1 and the 12-32 with Nauticam zoom gear.. no port and no bayonet mount… as I see my 12-32 use the same port 29 of the 14-42 PZ… the most convenient is to stars with port 29 and 12-32 and if I’m unsatisfied give a try with the PZ… Thanks again!

Hi, I'm a diver from Perth, Western Australia and couldn't resist the stereotypical greeting. I only dipped my toes into the underwater photography world over the last couple of years, utilising a Sony A6000 I already had, a secondhand Seafrogs/Salted Line housing and some old S&S strobes - about as cheap as you can go! I've since upgraded the body, added some lenses and a few of the limited ports available with the Seafrogs system, and at least got two of the same strobe (YS-110a). With two little kids I don't get to go out nearly as much as I'd like which is the biggest thing holding me back, but still greatly enjoy it, so loving the advice and input from this forum as I consider my next steps gear-wise.

Hi Lou, I’m currently using an Isotta housing for the Sony A7RV and I’m genuinely very happy with it. Before this setup, I had both the Sony A7RIII and an Olympus OMD, also in Isotta housings, so I’ve been with the brand for a while. From my experience, the main strengths are: Compact size for an aluminium housing – it feels noticeably streamlined. Excellent ergonomics – controls are very well placed, and I can access everything comfortably even with gloves. Build quality – solid machining, reliable sealing, and overall very robust. Good balance underwater I’ve only used Ikelite and Isotta personally. IMHO Isotta is significantly better than Ikelite in terms of ergonomics and overall size/handling. I haven’t used Nauticam, so I can’t compare directly there. I don’t really see any downsides in my use case. Hope that helps!

How much smaller is the dealbreaker for you? Below are the A7RV housing sizes with base housing only. Ports ect should be fairly same size for all. Isotta Nauticam Marelux Sea&Sea Width 28.2cm 34cm 33.46cm 33cm Height 18.6cm 17cm 18.98cm 16.9cm Depth 12.7cm 12.7cm 13.23cm 13.7cm Total 59.5cm 63.7cm 65.67cm 63.6cm % larger 0 7.06% 10.37% 6.89% Weight Not listed 2.7kg 3kg 2.9kg Isotta is clearly smallest in width, and you can see that in pictures also. It also looks most crammed with buttons in the back. Wouldn't say Isotta is very compact compared to other aluminum housings, with 7% difference.

Hello, I've owned an Isotta housing for my Nikon Z8 since last year and I'm very happy with it. Before that, I had a Hugyfot housing. What I appreciate most is the ergonomics; all the controls are perfectly positioned (I have small hands and I was sometimes uncomfortable with my old housing). It remains compact despite the size of the Z8, with double seals, a vacuum system, and a locking mechanism and the price... It's compatible with Nauticam, so I use the 24-50mm lens with the WWL-C. Elisa from Isotta is very responsive and answers any questions quickly. However, it's important to clearly define what type of flash connection you'll be using. Personally, I didn't get the Isotta trigger to mount a TRT Electronics Smart 3. Upon delivery, the housing was assembled with LEDs and cabling incompatible with the TRT. I had to order compatible parts and replace them. Isotta offered to make the modification at the factory to keep the warranty, but this would have meant returning the housing I had just received.

Hi Dave, Nice Cap/Cover! I created a similar solution for my WWL-1, simply closing it off at the front. However, it's also secured using bungees. I created a similar solution for my WWL-1, simply closing the front. I also use bungee cords for securing it. In my opinion, the protection is just as good with the mesh at the front, and the advantage is faster drying. I printed my cover with PETG. (If anyone wants one of these parts for the old WWL-1 (without a buoyancy ring) just let me know and I'll upload it to Makerworld.) I also have TPU for AMS from BambuLab, but I'm not entirely happy with the material yet. It's quite hard and therefore tends to break more easily. I used TPU for AMS for my snoot adapter, but I'll probably reprint that part with regular TPU soon. Tino WWL-1 Cover/Cap, latest version, printed for a friend.

I had an Isotta Olympus OM-D EM 1ii housing and loved it. I replaced it with an Isotta Sony A7RV and also love it. I have also had an Isotta GoPro and TG housing. I was near southern Lake Garda by chance in late 2024 so visited their factory. Lovely family-owned artisan manufacturing company which, for me, adds to my enjoyment using their products. The quality is great. The housings are compact and they have a unique door system with double o rings. Also, double o rings on the ports and I think also on the buttons and knobs. The ergonomics on the models I have had are great (I use back button focus). They are more simple inside than some other housings which I think is an advantage. They have port adapters giving options for the Nauticam dry lenses if you want to use them. (But my favourite lens is the adapted Canon 8-15 with teleconverter or on it's own.) Since a couple of years ago they do have ports with the correct front 67mm threads for use with the Nauticam bayonet fitting (e.g. WWL-1B). The only negative I know off is that since they are quite a small company they tend to be slower than Nauticam or Ikelite to bring out new housings for the latest models, or less common cameras.

Thanks I saw mention of S1 and S2 but no explanation of what they are. I am just thinking, exploring options none of which seem attractive to me. I am sitting on a pile of money earmarked for strobes but not a strobe exists that I am satisfied with. I am of the mind I will not pay for a strobe that has RC/Sony only modes and no slave TTL. Like WTH! Or they are big enough and heavy enough to serve as a boat anchor and put my airline weight limits to the test! I am a manual shooter but slave TTL is useful at times and I have spending $2000 plus on strobes without that capability and modes I have no use for. My rant for the evening. If Retra could shrink the Maxi (?) to a Midi and say it ran about $1,000 per unit I could get excited. If it had slave TTL.

Only the 100mm objective lens left - as new condition, not a mark anywhere. New Price is US$1,700 plus tax. My price $US1,200 - 30% off. Includes all postage and PayPal fees. Thanks to member DocToc for purchasing the rest of the package, excellent communication, payment. Pleasure to deal with, would recommend.

DS51 is Sold. DS125s are still available.

I have an old Isotta housing for my canon G5x... and since 4 year an Isotta with my Canon R5. I'm happy with it... it is a brand from Europe and in the actual situation It is important for me to buy "local".

I am using Bambulab TPU for AMS - So yes it does work with the AMS! I've only recently started to work with this version of TPU, and it is very nice. It is too rigid for softer rubber parts needed for things like my sync-cable-connectors, but great for more structural parts. This Port Cap and the Stage Bottle Hose Organizer work great with it. It's also super convenient to have it loaded and ready in the AMS at any time. https://makerworld.com/en/models/2025358-scuba-hose-organizer-for-stage-bottles#profileId-2183580

Another option is the port 65 and 12-50ez, has to be at 14mm or so but a very good combo.