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Can it be made visible from the forums? I pretty much only go straight to the forums page, but do like to browse what's for sale.

I'd not spend the money on an Inon viewfinder, the Nauticam units are far better. You can use the older DSLR style on most mirror less with just a little corner distortion.

All right, so here's a general update on the things I remember that I found out today! Isotta says that yes you can use S&S ports on Isotta housings, but not the other way around, on account of the double o-rings on Isotta ports. I don't know, maybe it's possible to remove one o-ring and then it would work, and then again maybe not. If Isotta is right it can't be done, then that rules out the cheap option of continuing with my S&S housing, provided I want the WWL-C Sea & Sea intended to make a solution for 24-50 and WWL-C but hasn't had resources to do that yet. (Ok this I learned earlier than today.) Given that what needs to be done is more or less a) figure out the length from lens mount to the front glass in Nauticam's solution, in order to make the very simple port b) figure out the diameter of the 24-50, in order to make the zoom gear I kind of despair about S&S. Also, their homepage looks like something from 1998 and is not well maintained. I get the impression that S&S is not that interested in making underwater housings and ports. What S&S is interested in making is strobes. This got me into the jungle of TTL flash triggers, because yes, I do think TTL works fairly well. I thought that as long as you had a TTL trigger for your camera brand you were all set. Ha. Ha. Ha. Oh no. To the credit of S&S, they do list which triggers work with their strobes. This is important; I have YS-D1 now and may upgrade in the future but maybe not right now. Apparently the UW Technics TTL triggers work well with Nikon and newer S&S strobes. Nauticam's own trigger, however, is currently under evaluation. Ok, whew, good find Dan, I thought Nauticam's trigger would be the safe option. Now to take a look at UW technics trigger... hang on... comparing the user manuals of the Nauticam trigger and the UW Technics trigger, it's obvious that it is the effing SAME TRIGGER. In their version of the manual, Nauticam has removed references to UW Technics. But it's absolutely the same. My god, this is driving me crazy. Viewfinders! If I go the Nauticam route, which right now seems like the wise choice (that or do nothing), there's an Inon 45 degrees viewfinder (I like that) for about 5000 SEK, or a Nauticam similar viewfinder for about 17000 SEK. That's a whopping difference. How much image quality difference is there in practice? Do I pay thrice the price for a modest or a dramatic increase in visibility? No one knows. At times like these I wish the uw photography world were larger, like the computer nerd world, where you can always find a test of the most obscure parts. I have sent some questions to Nauticam too, but that was earlier today and it's totally fine they haven't replied alreay. Phew!

Thank you so much for the information. One of the "wanna go" reason is the mandarin fish and I love night dive, so I will nor miss it. Right now what I'm not sure about is I have find that due to the flight prices it will be cheaper to stay one more day in Philippines, and I'm not sure if to stay one more day in Malapascua or one more day in Moalboal.

Hi Tino I realy enjoy your 3D Models for Nauticam. Actually your efforts motivated me to get a 3D Printer in the first place. So thank you and all the others. As I am hustling getting into the Printing I will upload my edits and designs here. Tino would you be so Kind to upload this model to maker world or here in the Forum? Warm regards from Zurich Selim

Hey, I am interested in these. PM

ah I see thanks - Yes, cinetone is nice, I also like cine2. At the moment I've returned to HLG-3 as I've realized I could set the colour gamut to Rec.709 directly in camera, so no conversion needed, and it's nice. Otherwise I've narrowed it down to cine2, cinetone and HLG-3 or PP off for workeable non-log profiles. I also just got and NLE upgrade yesterday so can edit on FCPX12 or Resolve Studio, which broadens possibilites!

Hi Ratna, welcome to the forum, hope you enjoy!

Oops! I meant s-cinetone, not cineEL. Have you given it a try yet?

Hi everyone! I’m Ratna from Jakarta, Indonesia. I’ve been diving on and off since 1993, but it’s really only been the past couple of years that I’ve gotten serious about underwater photography. I shoot Sony with a Seacam housing. Really looking forward to learning from all of you here and soaking up as much knowledge as I can. Thanks for having me!

I am sure that Tamron 12-20mm F/2.8 should be an excellent lens for U/W shooters using a 230mm or like port because of the 18cm minimum focus distance V.Sigma 14-24mm F/2.8 Sony 12-24mm F/2.8, Sony FE 12-24mm F/4 and Nikon Z 14-30mm F/4 which have a 28cm minimum focus distance. If I am going to spend $1700.00 my choice would be the Rokinon/Sanyang 14-24mm F/2.8 now $979.00US (on sale now) and the Laowa AF 12mm F/2.8 zero-D at $699.00 or a total of $1678.00. My reasoning is that #1 both lenses take thread in front filters. This allows you to use filters like grad neutral density filters for splits which works very well however you need to commit to landscape or portrait prior to the dive. #2 Both lenses max out at F/22. #3 The 14-24mm has a minimum focus distance of 18cm and the 12mm focuses to 14cm which allows both to be used in ports under 230mm in a pinch when weight is a factor. #4 both lenses could be used with the S&S correction filter but I find it to be less useful with lenses that focus this close. #5 Both lenses have had very positive reviews from land reviewers. I love primes for splits and the Laowa 12mm is the best I have used so far. In the last two years or so we have seen an explosion of third party lenses that are relatively inexpensive V. top camera brand lenses with many having as good or better IQ just without all the extra buttons that can't be used underwater anyway. I reviewed the Rokinon 14-24mm F/2.8 using the Marelux 210mm acrylic dome and the Laowa 10mm F/2.8 using the Marelux 230mm dome for uwpmag.com. I prefer the Laowa 12mm for stills and the Laowa 10mm for video.

It’s been quite a while since I was in Malapascua, but one thing I really enjoyed and that doesn’t get much publicity is the night diving. Typically shallow and packed with interesting life including mandarinfish. Don’t miss it! Everything else you read on the internet is generally informative. Mid November does not feature the best visibility but should be OK.

Hi all, I'm planning a trip starting the 15th november to Moalboal, diving 4 days diving the more the better and after another 4 days diving the more the better in Malapascua. I have read a lot about it but I appreciate your tips, what do I have to expect ? Chances to find the whale shark with no feeding ? It's 4 days too much in Malapascua ? What about the visibility in the water ? I have contacted with Savedra diving center in Moalboal, for the moment they are very helpful and looks like they can organize me a full pack of transfers, diving and accomodation for a fair price but I don't know anything about them other what I have seen in Tripadvisor.

I’ve taken the wwl-c off under water and shot the 24-50 @50, holding the wwl in hand. Not directly optimal but it worked occasionally. It’s more or less neutral uw thanks to a buoyancy collar. Much smaller than a dome. Very easy. Could stuff it in a pocket or, I’d imagine, use some kind of flip. Haven’t seen or heard about anyone doing it. Seem feasible tho. WWL-C covers a lot of WA/CFWA needs. You can lens correct afterwards if you want it straighter. Otoh it’s sharper than a FF WA zoom behind a dome (can’t fix that afterwards). But it’s not a full fisheye. So if you want to be able to do splits or need the full 180 degrees, add a dome or adaptation of your existing S&S dome to your budget to use the 8-15. I belive there actually are adapters made by Nauticam for S&S ports, again—talk to Magnus at exposure underwater. Surprisingly close race on the money, I’d have thought a Nauticam z8-rig would be noticeably more expensive than an isota ditto. Well, well…

Hi On a french diving forum, I had some discussion with a ex diving instructor living in Playa del carmen. His wife own a dive center. He allways say NO PROBLEM comming here, nobody need to pay taxe for camera etc... Heavy discussion over month I give up... and to be honest he didn't post at the forum anymore, probably he is tired fighting the evidences.

oh my bad, it should be 82mm! according to the calculator, the final result is 27.82mm I will try 25mm and 30mm and have a feedback! thanks @Isaac Szabo

@jyuny1 Almost everything looks correct to me except for "The distance from the sensor plane to the Nauticam N120 housing interface is approximately 45.2 mm". Did you measure that yourself, or did you look it up somewhere? I believe 45mm is the distance for Sony N100 housings and that the correct value for Nikon N120 housings is 82mm. If I'm correct, I think that would result in an ideal extension length of around 28mm, so a standard 30mm extension should work well.

Best thing to do unfortunately at this time is to not go to Cozumel unless you are okay with 19% taxes on cameras, computers including dive computers and other expensive gear like rebreathers or anything with a new value over $500. And let them know why you are not going. And give no tips to anyone if you are there now and where taxed for bringing in personal items. Whatever is going on there, the stress takes the fun out of the adventure, there are other places to go.

This post seems quite relevant: Red/green it seems gave you a chance of avoiding scrutiny but now they seem to be going all out.

Good analysis, I would suggest don't count on using your current fisheye dome with Nauticam, unless you can find a lug ring in stock somewhere. You seem to have a macroport in both systems? Or is that the port for the 24-50 On the WWL C it goes from slightly wider than your 14-30 to about 35-40mm equivalent while your 24-70 gets to 70mm of course. Whether it's a complete substitute depends upon whether you use the 40-70mm range on your 24-70 much. Other than that it is effectively a complete substitute for the 14-30 and big dome- unless of course you are a dedicated wreck diver and want trust rectilinear rendering for your wreck shots. As you mentioned there is some fisheye distortion in the WWL-C. I's also suggest asking about using the WWL-C on a flip as it only attaches by the Nauticam bayonet fitting. It's quite a hefty piece (though nowhere near as big a 9"dome) and I've only seen one post where they said they took it off and swapped it for diopter and even then they removed it and stored it in a pocket. which changes buoyancy of the rig. I expect using it on a flip is going to be an issue due to its size. As far as whether the WWL-C substitutes for a fisheye, it depends on what you are shooting, the FE is the choice for reef scenics for me at least. A left field option might be adding a Kenko 1.4x which requires 20mm more extension and that gets you out to the field of a 16mm rectilinear based on horizontal field of view.

Particularly important for LED triggers which only produce a narrow beam of light. On the topic of 613 fibre cables, the YS-D2 historically has a history of difficulties in triggering due to a rather weak slave sensor and needs the very best optic fibre cables. I recall one instance where cleaning the windows the LED trigger fires through solved a problem. It will work though with coiled or straight cables if they are the 613 fibre variety.

I rented one and used it with the 30mm extension - see comments and images here: I did not try the 20mm. There was no obvious vignetting with the 30mm extension. the 7-14 and the 8-15 are very close to the same length after you add the EF-RF adapter to the 8-15. Would be nice if it was even better with a 20 vs the 30! Solid lens. To your other point - I have never put another lens behind the 140mm dome. Not sure when I would use the 50 or 35 underwater - although I do bring the 24mm macro to use when I want simplicity (but don't love any of those focal lengths underwater...) but I use that with the 180mm port.