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As I understand only the mKV works if you want to use it with the TC, the ID of the MkV adapter is bigger so the nose of the teleconverter fits through.

Nice video!

You would expect that with less extension you would not run into vignetting, what this does is move the centre of curvature back behind the entrance pupil of the lens, so it's no longer optimally placed. This will cause I believe a bit more barrel distortion and a slight loss of field of view. Having said all that it seems Fisheye optics are less sensitive to the exact placement of the dome compared to rectilinear lenses in my view, though there are some who will argue this point. It's good to see the performance looked good when you tested it. It seems to be a great very flexible solution. On Wolfwangs's point about zoom gears - I'm not sure I got the meaning exactly, however changing the extension tube in front of the N100-N120 adapter has no impact upon the the zoom gear fit. On the topic of zoom gears I used Wolfgang's adapter solution to get my zoom gear matching the knob in my N85-N120 adapter, but found it would lose mesh when turned unless i provided inward force on the knob. It prompted me to change over to a zoom gear that uses the housing zoom knob and I find that a lot easier to use.

Thanks for the vivid description of your experience, @TimG - sometimes one reads these articles in news feeds, but your description almost had me replaying the entire scene as if I was there (even more so, since we've also been on the same boat a few years ago). The article should be a must-read for divers, especially just before departing on a liveaboard trip. Ajay

I shot this sequence in pretty poor visibility today: https://www.instagram.com/p/DZ0UlX9HUZA/?igsh=MWo1bXE2cXkzY3B4 The shorter FL is a really benefit in lower visibility and seems to be more versatile than the 90mm Sony. I'm now looking for a port that matches it better. Which I think would be the N120 Port 41 plus the N100-N120 adapter (which I have).

Hi, @Architeuthis - I saw the 60 total, but only have 50, so I gave it a try. Even at the full wide end of 8mm, there is zero vignetting with the 140 dome with the shade attached. IQ looks good as well. The results will be from a dive. Thanks, @Sokrates for the gear producer’s name. I’ll reach out to see what he has. I’ll also try the 30 extension to compare as well. I did super basic tests with both the 8-15 + 2x and the WACP to compare. Seems the 8-15 more or less matches the 130 FoV at ~10mm, followed by some similarities. The WACP with the 28-60 obviously has more reach with the 8-15 being a full 180 FoV. In short, the 8-15 with both a 1.4x and now 2x gives wide flexibility, especially once a zoom gear is found. The 28-60 remains strong for medium wide to tight with near macro level close focus. Between them, it should make for a very fulsome solution!

Is that a printed ring holding the dome on an extension ring? Subal maybe? I considered that but decided to just print the whole port a single part. If there is ever a need to use to curved port in a more diverse set of configurations I could make a 20mm ring holding the dome. I reprinted overnight and am getting ready to test this out.

I also have the Olympus 60 mm macro lens, and it has become my favorite lens underwater.

I’m sure you’ve seen the many “how to” threads, but just in case, these two are good: Advice on a Carry-on What do you carry . . . In that second thread I posted a photo of my Lowepro Pro Trekker backpack/roller, which I find to be almost perfect for my m4/3 system. However it’s about 14 kg fully loaded, and even worn on my back It looks heavy and gets weighed. I currently start most trips on an ATR-42 with a strict 7 kg limit, so use an inconspicuous commuter style backpack with a camera insert that doesn’t attract attention, and put the more durable stuff in my checked bag.

Zoom gear designer mentioned here Also its suggested that 30mm is enough extension same thread few replies in

Hi Chip, Are you sure the right extension for Canon+2xTC is 50mm? I use it with 60mm extension (35mm&25mm) and Dreifish even suggested more, based on his testing (but I get occasional vignetting by sensor stabilization when I take his suggestion)... In my files I see that for Canon+1.4x Kenko an extension of 50mm is required - your zoomgear should just fit in case you use the 50mm extension (maybe you have to remove the gear teeth wheel from the 35.5mm extension before it fits?). I do not use a separate zoomgear, but use an extension collar for my regular Nauticam zoomgear (placed in the DIY section for 3D print). I remember faintly that someone (Gudge?) fabricated an entire zoomgear and placed it also there... Wolfgang

Hi, all, I just picked up a Sony 2x TC to pair with my Canon 8-15. Does anyone have 3D plans or a suggestion for a zoom gear? Here is the exact housing setup: Nauticam housing Sony a1 Nauticam N100 to N120 35.5 Nauticam N120 30mm + 20mm Extensions Nauticam 140 dome Lens assembly order: Body > Sony 2x TC > Metabones > Canon 8-15 The gear teeth would need to line up with the zoom knob on the N100 to N120 adapter. I have the zoom gear for the 1.4x TC, but the Sony is a completely different size and in an entirely different position in the assembly. Thanks! chip

Simple question. Is it possible to install the Nauticam bayonet system to an AOI housing 67mm threaded port?

Changed the link, I don't know from where I pasted it 😂 But on your response, is still the mistake 🤌

Are you sure? 🤣

Another update for the mission one adapter for inon lens Video

Totally agree - it's really difficult to switch from macro mode to wide and vice-versa. You're not focusing on the same subjects, looking at things the same way, or even in the same place in the water column... There is one thing where compacts are pretty cool though - with the wide lens you can get zoom in fully and get shots that are slightly CFWA - the MFD is very small with the wide lens (to the dome glass, basically), so I also do macro with it as well, alternative with a weak diopter or none. It's nice. It's too bad the L10 housing port situation makes this more difficult.

The Canon EF-S 60mm Macro is a very affordable and pretty much underestimated macro lens. The above, written by Chris is true for Canon Mirrorless full frame bodies, as the Canon MILC will auto-switch to 1.6x Crop mode. There is a work-around for this, by setting your desired aperture first and then slightly unrotating the lens from the bayonet. This will trick your Canon to consider it as a manual focussing third party lens. Surprisingly it will only exhibit very little vignetting on a full frame sensor. But you have to live with using it as a fully manual focus + fixed aperture lens throwing the very fast and silent AF of this lens over-board. Sony, MFT and Nikon users can adapt this lens with full AF features and will have it working as a full frame lens with slight vignetting in some focus positions. Ahh,.. and if you intend to use it for video the 16:9 aspect crop will also help to get rid of the dark corners on a full frame body.

Classic cold shoe adapter. You could eventually use a cold shoe to 1" ball and then using a clamp for a better adjustable rig. P.S. IMHO IMHO IMHO In the future I would buy a proper port for wide angle. The whole idea to film macro medium wide in one dive is a BS...

Has your opinion changed after doing this review? I’m about to pick up my new underwater housing setup for my Sony A7R VI and already own the 16–35mm f/2.8 GM II, so I could use that behind a dome port. However, I’ve been leaning more toward the WACP-C with the kit lens. A dome is quite a hassle to travel with, but if the image quality is noticeably better behind a dome, as you suggest in your review, I may reconsider.

I came from MFT (Oly EM5II/EM1II) and changed to FF (Sony A7R5). Indeed the size difference is the greatest when it comes to macro setups. The Nauticam/A7R5/Sony 100mm macro/MFO-3 (on flip adapter) setup is now the biggest ever, while MFT macro was smart and tiny...😄 Paradoxically not so much difference when WA is concerned (WACP-C; Canon 8-15mm fisheye; Tokina 17-28mm behind Zen DP170 - compared to MFT with similar optics)... => I wish you great dives and fun with your new setup. I am eager to hear about your experiences... Wolfgang

It is the combo, so i cannot say which element caused the flare... As said the flare occurs very seldom and is not a real problem...

Wow, what a statement and test series.

Update! No, the Monster will not live, because the wide lens cannot work with the rectangular port, it needs a short port. So I had to decide between using all the zoom and the CMC-1, or having less zoom and the ability to swap between wide and macro wet lenses. I decided to keep the standard port for the L10 package, the rectangular one, and to keep using the GoPro + inon wide lens. So, I will shoot macro and normal fov with the L10, and wide with the GoPro ( and spending less than buying a Nauticam wide lens 😬) Now, do you have suggestions on how to mount the GoPro on top of the Nauticam case? I have ordered everything and next week I should have it, but I am already the thinking how to assemble everything 😬