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A question come now as i own the 8-15 and use on R7 (before on 40D, 50D, 70D, 80D). What i will gain in the long term? Better IQ? one more mm ?

I think we‘re already at that point more or less (and getting closer even to the optical limits), but then we like to crop… A new car will also only get me from A to B, but it does feel a lot better. From a buyer’s perspective: I have so far mostly bought used equipment (and really rather old) for probably 10% of the original price or less. But lower-end models, and those loose value more than the pro stuff.

It's ritten in the article and your have to scroll down more than half the page. Tonight I can make a screenshot.

Thanks.

I've just booked a last minute trip to Amed, Bali in a week so I thought I'd better start getting my gear ready - but I had some issues with my strobes last year in the Philippines, and I haven't got around to figuring it out properly yet........so I wondered if one of the more experienced folks would be able to point me in the right direction 😁 All of my issues last year were user error/incompetence - due to me having no clue about manual strobes and getting everything together last minute (there's a pattern emerging)! I've just got a Macro setup at the moment so I'll be taking: Sony A7RV + 90mm + (Subsee+10/Inon UCL-165) 2 x Backscatter MF-2 UWT 11075 Trigger I've previously been in touch with Pavel, who said that setting the dial to 7 (Retra Pro Max) works for the MF-2 too, so that's straight forward - the thing I'm not 100% sure on is the camera settings. Should the settings be something like this: MF-2 in Manual mode, camera in Fill-flash with WL OFF for non-HSS speeds MF-2 in HSS mode, camera in Fill-flash with WL ON for HSS speeds Or, seeing as there is no TTL at play, should I just leave WL ON in the camera all the time, and just flick between Manual and HSS on the MF-2 when changing shutter speeds? Do I need to be aware of anything specific to the MF-2's around the learning function and any potential pre-flashes from the trigger? I was thinking WL ON might mean no pre-flash, so it might be easier to keep WL ON all the time, so the MF-2 would just learn no pre-flash everytime anyway? Any advice would be greatly appreciated - thanks! Attached some of the luckier (and quite edited) shots from last year to try and make it more interesting than a wall of text 😁

Too bad our digital cameras do not get updated to the latest technology by purchasing a new roll of film. It is not the housing that cause the depreciation, it is the never ending "improvements" to cameras that is driving the obsolesce of the cameras, lenses and thus the housings for them. Once upon a time computers were sold by processor speed, this is 166MHz, then 200MHz and now it is not really relevant as a shopping metric. Maybe someday cameras will have resolution that exceeds the optical resolution of the human eye and the capability of the human brain to discern any difference. Then maybe there will not be a new and better model every few months.

I didn't see that in the linked page and I searched the article, is it in the video or somewhere like that? I think UW photographers are the only people on the planet who might be interested in adding a converter? The issue is that the Canon RF 1.4x has a very long nose. On the 190deg field maybe the solution is to position the lens at the 180 deg point in the lens and the blue ring will be vignetted out? On the filter holder, this is similar to what is used on the big tele lenses. If it gets in the way of the zoom ring you might be able to remove it and put some tape over the hole. Also the position of the zoom gear in the housing will influence whether it's a problem, the Nauticam housings for example position the camera back in the housing so there is room for an RF-EF adapter, which means the gear will be forward of where the filter holder is. All of this will be confirmed or otherwise no doubt once the housing manufacturers have tried it out.

A buddy just got one for his XT4, not many companies doing Fuji housings. He's extremely impressed.

Even slightly older mirrorless are pretty cheap. If I could get $600 for this EM5MK2 and housing I'd be happy. Instead I think it'll become a loaner camera.

I think Bill sums it up nicely!

The Marelux Aquista 135D ( D meaning direct mount like the WACP line ) has a max diagonal field of view of 135 degrees on full frame with a FF lens set at around 26-28mm. It will have anti-corrosion and anti-reflective coatings, it uses the Marelux serious 5 port mount, which means extensions and port adapters can be used. depth rated to 100 meters and will retail for $2599.00. I have not yet seen or used the lens but will have it in house by April if all goes well. This design will allow for a greater number of lenses to be used than for the Aquista 110 & 130 designs that mount onto a flat 67mm port. A list of lenses should be coming soon and I will post when they are released.

I have been trying to sell a 7D MII Nauticam for a year. Best bet is to donate it to someone like the Heroes of the Sea (from the Rocio del Mar) or to a local dive club or sell it really cheap to a young diver/photographer starting out. I did get an offer for the camera plus housing for like $400 (with ports but no lenses) and said sorry but not worth packing it up. Ended up donating it. Bill

This video isn't underwater, but anybody will identify with the antics of sea otter moms and pups. These pups are about ready to go off on their own, and are far more interactive than just born youngsters whom we filmed previously. Here's the link:

Welllll, it was probably the worst dive trip that I have been on. We were originally promised three dives per day (I prefer 4 or 5 dives a day, but OK), but when we got there, we were told that in fact, we were only going to get two dives per day. Then, we got high winds out of the north, which caused small craft warnings and the harbor was closed, so we lost three of the five days of diving. We were able to convince them to dive on Friday, since our plane left late on Saturday. So, we eventually got a total of six dives. Cozumel, for me, is not terribly interesting diving since I love macro shooting and with the currents and drift dives, macro is hard. Then, coming back we had to re-route our flights due to the snow storms in Charlotte, North Carolina, and they managed to lose all of our luggage in the process. It has finally arrived, though, and everything was intact. That said, I mostly upgraded from the GH5 to the GH7 for the improved autofocus, and so far I must say that I am impressed. It really does appear to be significantly improved. I will be going to Roatan in March, where I will be able to test it on macro subjects and really give it a work out, but for now I am impressed. Thanks for asking!

It's probably this one: $125 for acrylic Inon Dome Lens Unit IIIA – Reef Photo & Video Inon: Looks like it available in acrylic or glass INON Dome Lens Unit III [Features]

Do you happen to have a link with price? And do you happen to know what the curvature of the dome is?

I saw this on Social. Looks like a competition for WACP. But which one I am not sure. MareluxAquista 135D Wide Angle LensAquista 135D Wide Angle Lens Anyone have any further information on it? @Phil Rudin - have you used this? Or do you know when a port chart for it is coming out?

If you intend to pursue that road and cannot get your hands on a cheap 2nd hand ZEN dome from the example above, I suggest everyone to take a look at INONs very affordable small glas dome. You will need to get an adapter made, if you do not shoot their INON X-2 housing. *the sunshade is removable

I have loads of previous camera gear customers, travel guests and fellow photographers in similar situations......I share insights balancing how much you've used your gear versus benefits of changing systems. Everyone's budget is different plus the actual amount of intended use....Everyone should ask themselves: How many dives / trips per year are you REALLY going to be able to do? A friend has the exact same system as Kristin but hasn't been able to travel and dive for a few years. She owns the Nauticam 8" GLASS dome port purchased for one Grand Cayman photo trip plus other Nauticam pieces. Ports like those are probably the most valuable items if they fit current mirrorless Nauticam housings. The Canon 7D MK II while a fine camera (I used a pair borrowed for a good paying photo job photographing swimming techniques a few years back) but also is on the list of EOL (End Of Life) for any service coming up January 2027. This in my opinion is another reason to move into mirrorless these days. I find it interesting how much people place in physical objects.......Maybe I'm the outlier as I just view cameras, housings , strobes, etc. as tools to have fun and create images or videos you're happy with........ Like Tim I've always sold then bought different items over decades. But when I make the move I move it all !!!! Being a Canon shooter for decades when changing from dSLR for mirrorless I sold all my EF / EF-S stuff........Newer mount lenses are getting cheaper and sharper and simply work better on newer models IMHO.....I think I've actually MADE $$$$ ditching EF / EF-S glass for new RF / RF-S lenses. A friend who had a few Canon L lenses put money in his pocket and still bought a new Nauticam mirrorless package..... The only thing I'd ever keep might be batteries if they'll fit a new camera model...... Several friends who had Canon EOS M cameras recently moved to the Canon R10 which uses the same Canon NB-17L batteries. In the US www.mpb.com or www.keh.com will give you instant quotes as long as you accurately list your item's condition. MPB even pays for Fedex TWO day shipping to them. If they have any small dispute they email you and you can get your items back or accept their adjustment. It's usually minor $$$ and some have even had them pay a bit more! For me and many friends it's been seamless and quick without auctions, listing fees and hassles......Sadly, I don't know of any similar large outfit for UW hardware :( As others have mentioned most of your $$$$ will be the camera(s) and lenses as there are tons more surface shooters than UW shooters in the world. Finally, as Kristin has found out even with limitations of battery life or settings sometimes going down to smaller systems like a TG7 can be satisfying too even if just an interim move....... Good luck to all if contemplating changing systems :) David Haas

It seems a lot of value for the money. Which WA lens do you plan to use with it? I saw a small lens choice assortment on their website. They have a m43 housing too but it's a mistery which lens you can use on it. Thanks

From the chemical point of view, there is a huge difference between Cola and Baking Soda. Cola contains an inorganic acid, namely phosphoric acid, and has a pH of ~ 2.5. Bakery Soda is basic, ph of ~11.5. If modern lithium-batteries leak, when combined with water or air humidity, hydrofluoric acid can be formed. This acid cannot be neutralized with another acid (Cola), but with bases. I would, therefore, strongly recommend Baking Soda, followed by alcohol or, as a compromise, distilled water. Don't underestimate the effect of cola, as it can corrode many metals upon contact! Stay dry! Jens

Hi Kristin Over the last 25 years I've bought and sold more housing/cameras than is sane. As Chris says, it's not a happy process even when, as in each case for me, the camera and housing were in perfect condition and even when only one generation old. If you get 40% of the original value, by my experience, you have done incredibly well. 25%-30% seemed the norm. But then maybe I'm a lousy salesman. I think there comes a point where no matter how good the technology, it is way better than an individual's ability to use it. I'm a very happy owner of a Nikon D500/Subal housing which I have been using since 2017. Old technology for sure but, I have to ask myself, is there anything that this system stops me from doing or frustrates me? Ideally, yes, I'd love to have in-viewfinder review which mirrorless provides (I shoot a lot of macro/snoot so not moving my eye from the viewfinder would be great). But the cost of that one small upgrade would be crazy: new body, new housing - I suspect new lenses: $10k. Really? I'm amongst the worst when it comes to a love of new, shiny toys. But there comes a point where my better angel screams, "you are kidding, right?"

As I understand things Coca Cola is not a routine cleanup medium, I have seen people suggest using it after a Li-ion battery has been flooded and the battery compartment is full of sea water mixed with battery innards, The blend of sea water and the internal components of a Li-ion is going to be far worse than Coca Cola. The active ingredient of coke is phosphoric acid, that's why it makes tarnished coins look like new. I don't think I would put it a battery compartment unless I had a flood. You do need to consider what the strobe is made from - plastic strobes could be harmed by hydrocarbon solvents used in some contact cleaners, likewise just pouring isopropyl alcohol in is not advisable as it may react with some plastics. There was a post some years back with advice from Reef photo about what could happen to a flooded INON strobe, they said that plastic used in INONs was strong but not chemically resistant. Isopropyl should only be applied to contacts with a Q tip not poured in. IMO Coca cola would do less damage than alcohol - plastic is generally inherently resistant to acids especially relatively mild ones like phosphoric.

I think the value of something that old is just not there, even one generation old gear sells for very little. You might get lucky and get some $$ or not. I see a couple of options, Get it serviced and keep using it. Find a low actuation body as a backup. Retire it and get another system you could see what was available second hand and if you get a complete system and don't try to keep using your lenses it's probably easier to find something you like. Retire it and buy a new housing and body and try to salvage your lenses and ports. Adapting your macro lens to mirrorless may not be so great in performance though??