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This is what ChatGPT says: they are quite different accessories for the TG-series cameras such as the TG-7. FD-1 Flash Diffuser LG-1 LED Light Guide Light source Built-in flash Built-in LED Light Short, powerful flash Continuous light Macro stills Better Good, but less powerful Video Not useful as continuous light Excellent Underwater Yes Not useful underwater Working distance About 2–30 cm About 1–10 cm Light control Two flash levels No separate control Best for Underwater/macro photography Macro/video and very close subjects OM System specifically describes the FD-1 as a flash diffuser that gives softer, more even illumination and lists it as compatible with the TG-7, TG-6, TG-5 and TG-4. For your underwater photography I’d choose the FD-1 without hesitation. The important advantage is that it uses the TG’s flash, rather than the relatively weak LED. That gives you enough light for faster shutter speeds and lower ISO, which is particularly useful for underwater macro where you want to freeze subject movement. OM System also specifically confirms that the FD-1 can be used underwater. The LG-1 is really more of a macro/video light guide. It takes the camera’s LED and distributes it around the lens. It’s particularly useful when you need to see the lighting continuously while composing video. So, if you’re using a TG-7 for underwater stills, get the FD-1.

What are the differences between these two? Which one is for underwater macro photography? LG-1 LED Light Guide Model: V335480BW000UPC: 050332193864 OM SYSTEMBuy LG-1 LED Light Guide From OM SYSTEMBuy OM SYSTEM | Olympus LG-1 LED Light Guide online now. Find our range of quality Tough Accessories online now. Easy returns. Free shipping on orders +$100." essential tool for improving lighting in macro photography" FD-1 Flash Diffuser Model: V335470BW000UPC: 050332193857 https://explore.omsystem.com/us/en/fd-1-flash-diffuser " designed to soften the lighting in close-up photography"

Assuming you have a removable shade, the first thing to check might be dome rotation. Set the camera/ lens up so you can see the edge then loosen the screws and try rotating the dome a little so that the edge doesn't appear. Next check the other corners to see if the dome appears in a different corner. Just to be clear the edge appears as you are zooming out towards a circular fisheye image? You mention extenders - the dome should not appear at all with the 2x and appear around 10mm zoom with the 1.4x, is that what you are seeing?

Here is another thought, just trying to trouble shoot. If you camera requires a tray to slide in as many do, is any wiggle noticeable with the camera into place? Such that the lens zoom or focus gear could be pushing the camera aside?

I have a friend with a Nauticam Sony housing who noticed (by mounting a wet lens) that his Nauticam housing, camera tray is not manufactured telecentrically precise. So you might not be the only soul, suffering from this 🤷‍♂️😩 ..

Had busy weekend has Dive guide, very little time for filming...

Is this a language / word choice problem? Picture of a level below. Just check if the hood is parallel to the base of the dome. Put the level on top of the hood. If the hood is not taller than the dome, put the dome upside down with the hood on two equal sized block. Put the level on the base of the dome. Check to see if it's out of line.

I can rule out a hard impact, as I noticed this immediately after purchase, even before the first dive. To be honest, I can't imagine how I could check this with a bubble level. I'll probably measure the dimensions of the lens hood, but I don't expect to find anything conclusive. However, if all the other owners here in the forum report that they haven't been able to resolve the issue, I'll contact the dealer. The camera has IBIS, but I turned it off because it behaves strangely in combination with the Fisheye and Commlite adapter. So that can't be the cause.

My review of the Retra Maxi strobe is now available at Inside Scuba as part of issue #66. I started this review with some initial previews here on WaterPixels and really appreciate the input and ideas from everyone here. As I worked on this I decided that a long term review was the direction I wanted to take. Not just a few dives or a single trip, but experience with it over months and over 100 dives and very diverse environments. In the end I shot with the Maxi's from Dec 2025 to the end of June 2026 when I wrote the review in early July. Then a few weeks of editing and revision followed by a couple more getting it ready for publishing by Inside Scuba. Thanks to Andy Deitsch & Byron Conroy for agreeing to publish the article! Inside ScubaLong Term Review of the Retra Maxi StrobeDave Hicks tests the Retra Maxi strobe across 100+ dives in Raja Ampat and the Pacific Northwest, comparing it head-to-head with the Backscatter HF-1.

Just a thought, but does your camera have IBIS or the lens have stabilization? Turn it off. Perhaps I am wrong, but it seems sometimes I see a corner in a RAW file and the jpeg is clean. I managed to trick myself into thinking my Nauticam was leaking. I was in Fort Lauderdale so dropped by Reef to have them check it over. I also mentioned I thought the camera off center. The service tech pressure checked and found no fault and said he made an adjustment and handed it back to me. Since they did not charge me anything for the checkover and adjustment I did not ask what it was he adjusted.

I don't have this issue with the 140fe on my Nikon 8-15 setup, with or without 1.4 tc. Can you examine your hood carefully, perhaps using a bubble level? It could be misaligned. A good hit might have altered it.

Thanks for your reply! Does the Nauticam triple flip have dedicated, fixed(!) 'detents' for each flip that hold the flips in position? The Saga has detents, but they are far too soft and therefore can no longer hold the weight beyond a certain tilt.