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^^^ Truth.....message sent. Maybe I should have just lead with "Does anybody have something in their closet they don't really use much anymore, but is too good to just get rid of" The amount of stuff I have given away over the years is a little criminal. Best

Hi @homodelphinius , Yes, I have extensive personal usage with both the 8-15/140 dome and the WWL. In short, it's a trade off. - 8-15/140: smaller package, but limited zoom capabilities. Focus is ultra-wide with 180 degree FoV. Solid for CFWA reefscapes and wrecks. The 8-15 is a sharp lens, fast focus, and very forgiving as to the exact focus point due to the nature of such a wide lens. - The WWL is a much more versatile option that covers wide (not super-wide) to medium zoom range. At the wide end it is 130 degree FoV. There are a few times I miss having a wider option for expansive scenes, but those are very rare compared to the benefit of having a true working zoom option. The WWL is a water correcting lens which allows focusing to basically have the subject touching the glass dome. I have successfully photoed near macro level images of flamingo tongues with ease. Adding the CMC provides a super macro option, but with an extremely short usable focus range. Basically you would be able to photo fairly wide reefscapes, CFWA scenes, near macro, and then with the CMC super macro all in one dive. - Both the WWL and the CMC attach to the port via an adapter. You can purchase a similar adapter designed as a holder mounted to your housing or on a float arm to hold the lens you are not using at that time. Realistically, most everyone uses the WWL with a rare swap out to the CMC when an appropriate subject is found. It is a bit of pain to swap frequently which means it needs to be something really worth the effort to make the underwater swap, but it is there should you need it. A true macro lens with the CMC added would be best for a macro oriented dive. While I dive 95% of the time with my WWL, I do occasionally still use the 8-15 if I am diving specially for ultra-wide scenes. The rest of my dives are with a dedicated macro setup. There will be plenty that prefer a more traditional dome port and standard wide lens solution. There are benefits to each. It is important to focus on what your specific needs and desires are for your photography. Me personally, I like the zoom ability in a more compact design afforded with the WWL, especially considering the image sharpness delivered. Hope this help! chip

There are various posts I recall about using the WWL in combo with a CMC. The biggest issue quoted is what to do with the big lump of a WWL when it's not mounted on the port, with some concern about the fact the lens has no way to attach a lanyard. I only recall one person saying they used the WWL/CMC combo and they thought it worked OK. I would add that the quoted field of the the WWL is a 130deg diagonal lens, though the barrel distortion means that horizontal field which reflects what coverage you can achieve is about the same or very slightly wider than a 14mm rectilinear lens. The Horizontal field of a fisheye will be about 145 deg while the WWL will be around 105. You can go close to matching the WWL reach with the 8-15 plus 1.4x or even an adapted Tokina 10-17 but of course you can't add a CMC lens to that setup. You can focus up to the port glass and this allows you to image subjects down to about tennis ball size filling the frame reasonably well for CFWA type shots. The CMC-1 will get you about 0.8x on the 18-45 and it only focuses between 44 and 81mm from the CMC glass, so it's not as easy to work with as a standard macro lens. Whether it suits you likely depends somewhat which way you are leaning with the majority of the subjects you shoot. If it's mostly wide with the occasional macro or occasional wide with mainly variable sized macro. A macro lens with a wide wet lens would probably suit a wider range of macro sized subjects better than using a CMC with a kit zoom.

The “bible” of nudibranchs. Here you will find almost everything you need to know about nudibranchs that you might encounter underwater. Unfortunately currently out of stock, try to get a used copy or a PDF: Nudibranchs of the World (Debelius, Kuiter), ISBN 978-3939767060. Nice book on creatures you see during muck diving. However, it is still not complete -that would be mission impossible: Muck Diving: A Diver's Guide to the Wonderful World of Critters (Nigel Marsh), ISBN 978-1921517815

WITHDRAWN - NO LONGER AVAILABLE *****************************************

I moved from SLR and assorted lenses to m4/3 with a kit zoom and wet lenses a few years back. It works well for a journalist approach to a dive site. One site, get the wide angle to set the scene, fish in the middle, then macro all in one dive, then swap back again when the whale shark shows up! Then on to the next site. Wide angle is comparable to before the move. I find the main difference is on macro, where the CMC has to be close to the subject. A dedicated macro lens could achieve similar magnification from a little further away. In some situations that is a plus, and in some situations its a limitation. But its not a like-for-like comparison because I have never owned a dedicated macro lens for m4/3. If choosing again today my ideal would be a primary lens 60 or 105 macro (full frame equivalent) and a wet lens to convert that to wide angle. I would loose the ability to zoom for convenience at the extremes. But the balance of my diving has changed. I used to do a lot more wreck diving. Now I do more macro diving. Without travelling with a full shed of camera kit most of us need to compromise somewhere.

Purchased Nauticam Macro Port 105 N100 from @svilen great seller, no hassle and shipped to the UK with no issues!

The mft charts on the official Sony website are identical in resolution (unfortunately). Based on the current information, it looks as if the new version will be optically identical. We'll see... V1 FE 28–70 mm F 3,5–5,6 OSS | SEL2870 | Sony Switzerland V2 FE 28–70 mm F 3.5–5.6 OSS II | SEL28702 | Sony Switzerland

Printed these today at local library. Tight fit but got there. Putting into use next week. 👍

Hi mates, For 13 years i use the combo 8-15 with 100m dome (Aquatica) and now 140mm on Nauticam (complete switch to Nauticam with Canon R7 as Aquatica support in Europe is !$#@$). However, i wanna more flex during science missions - mean to have wide and macro at the same time. Thus am thinking to move to WWL II and CMC on the handy 18-45 Canon lens. Has anybody experience on such switch?

In good conditions, but a light scratch on the dome - please see the pictures. when shooting underwater, you don’t see the scratch on images. Scratch can be polished I think. 75€ + shipping Located in Germany. “ Patented Wide Angle Lens with a 67mm thread, which fits over the housing's port and can be installed and removed during the course of the dive. Perfect for shooting seascape, divers, ship wrecks and schools of fish, without moving further away from the subject, thereby still taking full advantage of water clarity and artificial light sources. “

Selling my Nauticam EMWL kit in as new condition. No marks on either the Focus Unit or the objective lens. Some extremely minor cosmetic marks on the lens shade. Included: Nauticam EMWL Focus Unit – Version 2 (87302) Nauticam EMWL 130° Objective Lens Nauticam EMWL 130° Lens Shade Price: $3000USD Currently located in Australia but willing to ship world wide if needed. Images to come.

I dont think my carryon has ever been weighed in Indonesia. I have around 60 domestic flights there on Garuda, Batik, Lion and Wings. Few times it has been gate checked on Garuda, not because of weight, but because of small plane and no overhead space. Garuda doesnt operate these plane types anymore. Normally boarding is pretty much "free for all", atleast on Lion Group flights, so better to try board with first to get some overhead space. If they want to checkin your carryon, you could try the magic word "lithium-ion"?

I don't have specific information, the tightness of fit needed will vary depending the lens in question. The problem you are likely to see if any is vignetting. The good news is you check vignetting on land, so you try out what you have to see if it will work OK for you. It looks like it is supplied with two different thread options to try to accomodate different attachment methods. The part to mount a bayonet attachment to wet lenses is the Nauticam 83214. The backscatter page says it attaches to M67 lenses. Whether you can use it or not depends on the dimensions of the lens you are trying to mount , the thread is located further up the body of the lens on Nauticam wet lenses to get the backend of the lens closer to the port. You could try asking the vendor is the Kraken will work with this adapter?

I was using TC1.4 and new 100mm macro in my last dive trip, for me I'm really satisfied witht the image quality, here is a corp of central part for your reference. This is a tiny Anker's Whip Coral Shrimp about 6-7mm in length.

Santa says I'm getting a Kraken KRL-09S to use with my OM10/Nauticam housing and 30mm macro. Yea! My problems/questions are twofold: (1) for my 30mm lens, I use a 29mm port plus a 17mm extension ring = 46mm, instead of the recommended 45mm port; i.e. 1mm extra from lens to port glass. Will this be a problem with the KRL09S? Would it be best to screw the Kraken in rather than use a flip of some kind? (2) My 29mm port has a Nauticam bayonet on it for use with my WWL-1/CMC when using my 14-42mm EX lens on the camera. I assume there is no way to use the Kraken KRL-09S with the Nauticam bayonet. Correct? I'm guessing all my issues could be solved by getting another proper 45mm port for the 30mm macro lens, and put a flip on it, presumably Nauticam for the robustness and clip. That is a LOT of extra cost....so I'm silling to fuss a bit with waht i ahve if it will work.

let us know how you go!

Total bargain and still an extremely capable camera. For that you could add an adapted Canon 8-15 or Tokina 10-17 in a small dome and take it UW for less than the cost of a Nauticam housing for the Z8 or equip it with a fisheye lens and 4" dome and strobes and still be around the price of just the housing.

Hi @jmorphy , I too use the a1 and am super happy with it. From everything I have seen and heard, there is no real upside to the a1 vII over the a1 for underwater usage. To be honest, it was a really tough decision between it and the a7rV. The main reasons I chose the a1 was 1) electronic shutter with flash possibility and 2) the 1/400 sync speed. After seeing many of the a7rV in the wild and talking their owners, I would look seriously that direction to potentially save a few dollars with no reduction in quality. 1/250 sync speed it great for most scenes, and now HSS is a solid option for even faster shutter speeds. The electronic shutter option has not been a big plus in real life. The newer AI focus does have a bit of an upgrade with fish faces. Best of luck in your decision! Chip

Well, okay, none of us are expert on this strobe. Per Backscatter it is smaller than the HF-1 considerably and has a UW GN28 which is equivalent to the HF-1 at max power until you set the +1 or +2 settings which I think are GN34 and GN40 respectively. Per Backscatter and the strobe operator manuals, the Backscatter MF-1/2/3, Atom and HF-1 will only shoot TTL with the Backscatter trigger. If this is not true, explain how this is not the case because I might like to purchase a set but I want to run off my UWT board or the pop up strobe for TTL. Manual of course is no issue with the UWT trigger or the pop up flash but TTL?

Sorry, too lazy to answer.

There is an EM1-II for $1000 in the classifieds that would offer you a massive opportunity for less than the cost of a dome.

Ok, I’m lazy. How does this strobe position itself to the HF1?

I use Backscatter HF-1 with HSS and UWtechnics Board, but manual only. A friend of mine shoots Sony and uses Turtle Smart3 Trigger enabling HSS and TTL on the Backscatter HF-1. So you are not forced to buy the Backscatter Flash Trigger module to get TTL. I wonder if the AOI Trigger will also work with the HF-1 enabling TTL and HSS ? 🤔

I would highly encourage going second hand (this forum, eBay etc). You can great deals there and this can make the next step more manageable.