All Activity

Simple question. Is it possible to install the Nauticam bayonet system to an AOI housing 67mm threaded port?

Changed the link, I don't know from where I pasted it 😂 But on your response, is still the mistake 🤌

Are you sure? 🤣

Another update for the mission one adapter for inon lens Video

Totally agree - it's really difficult to switch from macro mode to wide and vice-versa. You're not focusing on the same subjects, looking at things the same way, or even in the same place in the water column... There is one thing where compacts are pretty cool though - with the wide lens you can get zoom in fully and get shots that are slightly CFWA - the MFD is very small with the wide lens (to the dome glass, basically), so I also do macro with it as well, alternative with a weak diopter or none. It's nice. It's too bad the L10 housing port situation makes this more difficult.

The Canon EF-S 60mm Macro is a very affordable and pretty much underestimated macro lens. The above, written by Chris is true for Canon Mirrorless full frame bodies, as the Canon MILC will auto-switch to 1.6x Crop mode. There is a work-around for this, by setting your desired aperture first and then slightly unrotating the lens from the bayonet. This will trick your Canon to consider it as a manual focussing third party lens. Surprisingly it will only exhibit very little vignetting on a full frame sensor. But you have to live with using it as a fully manual focus + fixed aperture lens throwing the very fast and silent AF of this lens over-board. Sony, MFT and Nikon users can adapt this lens with full AF features and will have it working as a full frame lens with slight vignetting in some focus positions. Ahh,.. and if you intend to use it for video the 16:9 aspect crop will also help to get rid of the dark corners on a full frame body.

Classic cold shoe adapter. You could eventually use a cold shoe to 1" ball and then using a clamp for a better adjustable rig. P.S. IMHO IMHO IMHO In the future I would buy a proper port for wide angle. The whole idea to film macro medium wide in one dive is a BS...

Has your opinion changed after doing this review? I’m about to pick up my new underwater housing setup for my Sony A7R VI and already own the 16–35mm f/2.8 GM II, so I could use that behind a dome port. However, I’ve been leaning more toward the WACP-C with the kit lens. A dome is quite a hassle to travel with, but if the image quality is noticeably better behind a dome, as you suggest in your review, I may reconsider.

I came from MFT (Oly EM5II/EM1II) and changed to FF (Sony A7R5). Indeed the size difference is the greatest when it comes to macro setups. The Nauticam/A7R5/Sony 100mm macro/MFO-3 (on flip adapter) setup is now the biggest ever, while MFT macro was smart and tiny...😄 Paradoxically not so much difference when WA is concerned (WACP-C; Canon 8-15mm fisheye; Tokina 17-28mm behind Zen DP170 - compared to MFT with similar optics)... => I wish you great dives and fun with your new setup. I am eager to hear about your experiences... Wolfgang

It is the combo, so i cannot say which element caused the flare... As said the flare occurs very seldom and is not a real problem...

Wow, what a statement and test series.

Update! No, the Monster will not live, because the wide lens cannot work with the rectangular port, it needs a short port. So I had to decide between using all the zoom and the CMC-1, or having less zoom and the ability to swap between wide and macro wet lenses. I decided to keep the standard port for the L10 package, the rectangular one, and to keep using the GoPro + inon wide lens. So, I will shoot macro and normal fov with the L10, and wide with the GoPro ( and spending less than buying a Nauticam wide lens 😬) Now, do you have suggestions on how to mount the GoPro on top of the Nauticam case? I have ordered everything and next week I should have it, but I am already the thinking how to assemble everything 😬

The point made about the camera lens possibly being more flare prone in some, could be? Could explain such varied experiences with the same optics. The photo with the beautiful gar fish, very shallow, very bright sun. Challenging conditions for sure. For laughs, Canon A570 P&S, Ikelite case, Inon WAL with glass dome, shot right into the sun with some cool lens reflections that look like planets. Photo sucks, lol, what do you expect for a 5MP antique! Darn thing had manual aperture, iso and shutter! Shallow and bright, a little flare in the lower right corner. Surely the WACP could do as well!

The Canon 8-15 adapts extremely well to MFT. Honestly I sometimes question why I didn't hold onto my Olympus and adapt that lens rather than going Sony FF.

Here ya go Dave: MF-2 and 3 Quick Disconnect Connector - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

I'll have to get one of those to save my fingers! And yeah, I took a few attempts on the tolerances and mine is still not perfect either, it will push out from the inside but I've been diving it for several years..

It only took a couple of minutes to insert the o-ring. I made about six test prints to fine tune the fit. Too loose, still loose, too tight, just right. I made it snug enough that it was not impossible to place the o-ring. We will see how well it works in the water soon. I built in a provision for a locking ring outside the glass to secure it a bit out of the water. Now the original Zen dome I could not push out the glass by hand. I had to pluck out the o-ring with a steel pick. My dome i can push out by hand, so it is not as tight but hopefully good enough.

Of course I'm biased.... ha. How much does your o-ring tool help pressing that? Still a pita?

Tim, I too was unsure of when I switched from Subal to Nauticam, I just felt my old Subals were so buttery smooth and well machined. I've never quite got the same feeling from Nauticam, but never once has a housing let me down, their system is superb, and I've had great support when needed from Alex T here in the UK. so whilst the smooth outer feeling is missing, the overall result has been spot on. I can't imagine you'll be disappointed If something happened to my A1 Im pretty sure Id go down the M43 route, and up until you blow up a picture to poster size on the wall I doubt you'll see the difference, especially on the web Enjoy (and up the blues!!) Mike

Examples of 28-60 w/ WWL-1b. Quite flare resistant IMO. Unfortunately, no experience with WACP.

I’ve gone the same route as Dave with a Turtle 3 Smart trigger Manual. I must admit I’ve never thought much about sync speed but use HSS. Why not house the Z6iii? Hmm, fair question. Down to size I think. The Zuiko/Panasonic lenses are minute compared to Nikkors. And I really didn’t want FF and the WA hassles that brings.

Yes, that looks like a problem! My extension ring design has that lip but i didn't (think) i needed that extra diameter for the port. I will add that back into the design!

Really nice work. However, are you perhaps missing the feature that supports the port from being pushed back into the housing under pressure (circled in the image below)? If so, the port might only be supported by the plastic tabs of the locking mechanism (that's the case on my N100 housing).

Yes. It was from a Zen Underwater WA-100 dome port for Olympus 9-18mm. Cost about $200 on ebay. The actual glass rim diameter was 103.85mm. I bought 103mm x 3mm 70a orings from McMaster Carr. I got about 5 orings and used one up repeatedly using it to test fit and installation techniques in draft prints of the top of the port.