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Hey Romik, thanks for the great feedback and great video! I actually have an extra camera that I can use for a top-down shot, so maybe the WACP-C would be the best option after all? :)

Following up on the Marketplace announcement, here are some of the main features members will be able to use. Marketplace gives members a proper place to buy, sell, trade, and look for items without everything getting buried in forum topics. Member features include: - Create your own marketplace listings - Add multiple items to a single listing - Upload multiple photos for each listing - Choose the main/default photo for the listing - Set a price, or mark an item as free or negotiable - Post For Sale, Wanted, Trade, and mixed listing types - Add item condition, location, and detailed descriptions - Browse listings by category - Search and filter marketplace listings - Save listings to come back to later - Contact the seller directly - Comment on listings, where enabled - Follow listings for updates - Mark your own items as sold / closed - Relist expired listings - Manage your active, sold, and expired listings from your own listing area - View seller profiles and other listings from the same seller - Leave buyer/seller reviews and feedback after a transaction - Build a visible reputation through marketplace feedback - Edit History captured (every edit to original listing captured and visible publicly The goal is to make buying, selling, and trading easier for members, while keeping listings organized and easy to find. Marketplace is still being improved, so member feedback will help shape what gets added next.

We have probably the best article in this topic:

Tim, I have the Turtle 3 for my Nikon D500 in Subal housing and do not remove the LEDs from the trigger. I just remove the trigger from the hot shoe whenever I need to remove the camera from the housing. The HSS works with my Retra Prime+ and the Turtle.

Hmmm, that's an interesting thought. I guess though that you can leave the electronics box attached to the LEDs and just slide the box off the camera before removing it from the housing? In the same way you would remove a hot shoe connector?

Hi all! Have a trip scheduled next month to Malapascua to see some Threshers Ill only be having a GoPro with a Backscatter Sharp Wide Lens Pro No strobes or lights allowed in these dives Anyone have any tips on settings that can be useful in this situation? I know that I’m not expecting any cinematic footage with this setup, but I’d like to maximize it as much as i can Thanks!

There is no flare problem when shooting sun with WACP-C. You will get flare with mispositioned strobes facing the WACP glass but not otherwise. For snorkel with whales its a non issue (no strobes) Having said that I wouldn't bring WACP-C for whale snorkel trip. Never been on one but if it is anything similar to my Orca experience in Norway you are going to spend a lot of time on the small boat chasing the whales and jumping in and out of water. And so you may miss a lot of pictures and videos topside. With dome not so. All my topside shots in Orca video are with camera inside of housing behind 180mm glass dome. Also one of attached pictures. For Orcas I had 20-70 F4 with 180mm and 16-35 F4PZ which I haven't used. For whales I probably would. Honestly I think that all technical discussions for snorkel trip are nonsense. The rule of the game is be light be quick and have great AF. Also external monitor will be invaluable for these shots floating on the surface extending arms down and getting shot from down below. Wed5Pro may prove to be the best investment :-). Good luck :-) WACP-C 20-70 with glass dome

Well, a bit late, but for a period I didn't use the forum a lot. Here the answer for future readers I just attached to the tray (with a screw and nuts) a quick release arca swiss, that I can use to attach the tripod I'll attach 2 pictures of it so it will be clearer. I don't have the tray anymore, but that's not the important part 😁

I am a bit late to the party, but here my pimped GoPro, for macro, super macro and wide 😁 Lenses: Inon G55 (super macro) Inon G165 (macro) Inon G140 (wide) Tray, main floater, clips and the 2 short arm from AliExpress (really cheap, but served me well for 3 years) 2 Arm floater with lens holders from inon Tripod from Joby (5k version) Torch DL08 from wurkkos Torch here On my Instagram you can see some of the results (I have that problem, the one that I like to shoot a lot of cool video, but edit just a small part of them 🫣) Insta: Elvandar

And probably for the same reasons I explain here. The electronic IBIS must know the real lens FOV to electronically compensate your movements.

I got the answer from AI, did not verify it, but makes a lot of sense, hope it helps: You need to tell your Olympus/OM System TG-series camera (TG-6, TG-7, etc.) that you're using an **FCON-T01** or **FCON-T02** fisheye converter lens in the menu because the camera uses this setting to apply the correct **optical corrections and zoom behavior** for that specific lens. ### Key point from Olympus documentation: > "When using the FCON-T02, change to settings appropriate for shooting with the converter: In Live Control's **Accessory Settings → Converter Name (Conversion Lens)**, select **[FCON-T02]**" [2] ### What happens if you don't set it: The biggest practical issue is **vignetting** (dark/black corners around your image) because the camera doesn't apply the distortion/vignetting correction specific to that fisheye lens [3]. You'll still get the fisheye effect mechanically, but the image quality degrades significantly at the edges.

It looks like the turtle manual talks to the camera as it says it automatically switches to HSS if the SS goes over max sync speed, which you would need to configure to 1/250 in the trigger, the default seems to be 1/160. You would also need to confirm the HSS will work with your Retras as it doesn't mention strobe compatability on the website. Your alternative is the Nauticam trigger which doesn't register with the camera and will sync to 1/400 without HSS. This will give you more flash power at 1/400 than a HSS trigger will deliver. It a purely manual trigger. It should be able to rear curtain sync as well as this is set in the camera and I can set it in my camera without a flash attached. I'm pretty sure it will fit, it mentions it is OM-1 compatible.

Friend of mine is just getting the same in few months time, OM1ii in Nauticam. He is getting the the ULM laser trigger, but i guess you want to use HSS when looking at the TRT one? For the size, im 99% sure the TRT fits, as the Nauticam housing has huge space for their own bulky trigger. I have TRT 3 myself, for Sony, but its pretty much the same. The only thing i dont like is that you have to connect the cable from led's to trigger when taking/putting camera in, and have forgotten about it once and almost felt like i broke the pins/cable when taking the camera out.

Since we are really splitting hairs now 😄 Here is my take. One aspect nobody has talked about is shooting in murky water with the WWL. In my experience, the WWL suffers from the same issues as the EMWL, and I don't see why it would be any different. I happened to shoot video in a river where there was a lot of mucilage in one area. The mucilage particles inevitably ended up in the space between the lens and the port. Unfortunately, you couldn't see anything with the naked eye on the monitor, and by the time I moved into an area with crystal-clear water, it was already too late. My buddy, using a standard port, brought home several good shots. Mine were all to be thrown away. Also, for anyone who takes video seriously, I should point out that wet lenses that change the lens FOV trick the IBIS algorithm, which needs to know the focal length of the lens. The impact is minimal, but the footage will never be rock-steady. People have always thought I was a bit crazy, and I believed this was a problem with Panasonic, which has the best IBIS on the market. Then recently, @bghazzal sent me a link to a Nauticam page about Sony cameras that talks about this exact issue: Nauticam "forgets" to mention that 99% of the time its users are using zooms and not prime lens...

Hi Rafa, Welcome aboard! I'm hearing "downsize" a lot, lately... Ciao

I'm looking at getting the Turtle 3 Manual version for an OM-1ii in a Nauticam housing. Can anyone confirm that the Turtle definitely fits? I'm guessing that's not a problem given the Nauticam housing has space for the OM flash trigger but just wanted to check. Any comments/experiences with the combination would be most welcome. I plan to use Retra Pro Max strobes. Thanks!

Hi everyone! Glad to be a part of this forum I’m Rafa, from the Philippines 🇵🇭 Got into underwater photography a few years back. Started with an Olympus EM5-III in a Seafrogs housing and focused on macro photography You can check out some of my shots on my instagram here: https://www.instagram.com/rafaunderwater?igsh=czV1ODAybDlydms4&utm_source=qr Currently trying to “downgrade” into a lighter setup and focusing on video. Just recently got a GoPro, and will try to maximize this setup before I venture into anything higher. Cheers!

Please post, ideas, suggestions and bugs if you find any here. So I can keep track of things in one place.

The new Waterpixels Marketplace is now running, and we’d like everyone to start using it for buy/sell/trade posts. For now, the existing Classifieds forum will stay open while we finish testing the posting rules and make sure the Marketplace works the way it should for new members, post-count limits, and normal member access. Once that testing is done, we’ll restrict new posting in Classifieds and move future listings to the Marketplace. Please use the Marketplace for new listings whenever possible, and let us know if anything feels confusing or does not work right. A few things to check while using it: - Creating a listing - Uploading photos - Choosing the default listing photo - Posting into the right category or categories - Marking an item as sold or closed - Browsing and filtering listings - Saving listings to favorites If you run into a bug, please post what happened and, if possible, include the browser/device you were using. Screenshots help too. The goal is to make the Marketplace easier to browse and manage than the old Classifieds forum, while keeping the same community rules and protections in place. Timeline: - Marketplace is live now - Classifieds will remain open briefly while we finish testing - After testing, new Classifieds posting will be restricted - Existing Classifieds content will remain available for reference You can find the Marketplace in the main navigation or in the below link. Marketplace Please give it a try and post feedback. This is ready enough to start using, and we’ll keep tuning it based on what people find.

Quiet a few people here use the Canon fisheye with Metabones adapter, it's well established solution as Sony does not have a native fisheye. On the topic of 16-35, some reach is helpful however I really don't think you want to be using a big dome when chasing whales. If you look at the WACP and 28-60 and the horizontal field of view - which shows approximately how big a subject will fit in the frame, it goes from about the field of a 13-14mm lens through about the the reach of a 29mm lens, so it terms of horizontal field it is like a 14-29mm lens and compare this to a 16-35 mm lens it's more or less the same, but with better corners of the frame in the WACP and better ability to shoot wider apertures. The combination of a Canon 8-15 and a Sony/metabones on the other hand goes from a 180° diagonal fisheye with about 144° horizontal field of view through to a 28mm rectilinear lens, it's about equivalent to a 7-28mm rectilinear lens if you could get one. It's reported to have equivalent sharpness to a WACP/Sony 28-60 setup. I would suggest the 28-35mm range won't be too useful for whales, at that focal length to fit in the frame a whale would be on the deg of visibility. This post is a good one on the Sony 2x/metabones/140mm dome combination: I have an OM-1 with Canon 8-15 on metabones and that is what I would be taking if going to shoot whales.

Hey Alex, Another great question. It’s all about the right tool for the right need. If I want to capture an ultra wide scene, it’s the 140 dome and Canon 8-15, with and without a teleconverter. This could be massive reefscapes, wreckscape, or interior room to show an expansive 180 view. If I want to do a typical all around dive or capture big animals where a true zoom is beneficial, it’s a WACP or WWL. If I ever want to get serious about splits or need a rectilinear look, a 230 dome would be best. Thus far it has not been enough of an interest for me to warrant the investment. Which is “better?” None, in my opinion. They are simply tools to maximize the photo opportunity or capture the desired image. Cheers Chip

On Sony a good combo seems to be: 140mm dome Canon 8-15 Sony 2.0 TC My current wide angle setup is the mechanical Nikonos 15 or Sea&Sea 12mm and nothing is lighter or more compact. However doing CFWA is a challenge with them and I intend on going the route above at some point as a general traveling setup. Perhaps not as perfect as the RS or WACP-C but significantly cheaper and a touch more versatile.

With a large dome you can do over unders. But inme wide rectlinear lenses are not as good as Naticam wet optics for corner to corner sharpness. You need a fisheye for that. The wwls are quick and easy to burp, and inme often not even needed, the wacp and dome has the advantage of being ready immediately. In my short but sweet experience with WWL:s … a little sensitive to creating ugly (not cool looking ones) flares when you shoot against the sun. Have never experienced that delicacy with domes. Maybe a wwl-c specific?