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Divervision should hopefully be able to ship to you in France as well. They're a great vendor and I've used them multiple times. Regarding S&S reliability, I can only personally say I've had no issues over years with their strobes over multiple generations (YS-25, YS-110a, and YS-D3). My dad has also dove a pair of YS-D2j's for years without issues. But others will likely tell you they're nothing but problems. 🤷‍♂️

Hi @KPV and @Hadley England, if you want help, you need to let us know the mm distance measurement of your Canon R8 lens bayonet flange to Seafrogs housing port bayonet flange. In other words, how many millimeters sits the camera inside the housing?

I think you're looking at this a bit backwards. For those moving to the Sony A7 series, you move to FF. It's not that you "need" FF. And... there are many (many) u/w amateur photographers using a Nikon D850. I still contend one of the best pairings for blackwater dives is a D850 and the Nikon 60mm lens. This is not a "pro" (only) set up, just a very solid set up to get good images while diving blackwater.

For what it's worth, I've spearfished near Beqa (let's not have that debate). I've speared and freedived in a lot of places, including some extremely sharky places (hello Marovo & Kavachi! Hello Stewart Island!). Beqa is where I've had my most aggressive and dangerous shark encounter. That might be a coincidence, but I suspect the baiting has had a dangerous effect. It's the only place I wouldn't be willing to spearfish again.

I can't even hear the buzzer through a hood, so I'm with Dave.

I just got an Atom last week, and this week I made a snoot-adapter for the OS-1. Backscatter is planning to sell an "OS-2" snoot for the Atom but it looks like it's just the OS-1 optics on a different plastic mount. I quickly reverse engineered it from the product photos and used my spare OS-1 front end on my DIY adapter. I'll dive it tomorrow and report on results. It seems to work just as well at the MF-2 / OS-1 combo, but more powerful. This might be an ideal snoot setup as the MF-2 is limited in battery life if you have the spotting light on all the time.

Thanks everyone for the feedback ! My previous use of the TG-6 snorkelling was in multiple situations, going down to 4-5m, sitting around, waiting for fishes, and without a housing. I had a lot of fun, but always found the images lacking something. When I compared it to a S110 it was at home, typical "wall + frame" pictures, side by side, multiple focal distances, playing with ISO, and to my surprise the old Canon had an edge. I did get an Ikelite housing for it, but when I went looking about getting the rest of the gear (wet lens + strobes) I realised that maybe I could invest a little more and up the kit a little bit. I thank you all for toning down my enthusiasm regarding FF :) As I've always been playing with APS-C since 2006-7, it felt weird investing so much in a system with such a small sensor (the TG-6). I'm seeing the light now, and it shows me something between a MFT and APS-C :D A pity that opinions on Salted Line / Seafrogs seem mostly on the negative side... they have (low) cost on their side. Mostly what concerns me is how the ports will affect the light. No point in getting a fancy lens and then put it behind glass (acrylic...) that will ruin the show. I have a good deal on a A6400, might go down that route. In the meanwhile, also ordered Alex Mustard's book and will do my best to make myself more enlightened ! And then get decent strobes :) @Lewis88 thanks for the tip on the YS-D3. A pity there here in France they retail for 650-850 euros .... (the YS-D3 Duo). I had impression that many people had issues with reliability with Sea and Sea lights (https://waterpixels.net/forums/topic/3224-sea-sea-ys-01-ttl-inconsistency-led-behaviour-known-fault-repairable/) ? And Inon being a more solid choice ? Cheers everyone!

The lens needs to be corrected; otherwise, there is noticeable vignetting at 24 mm. That’s why I was surprised by your statement that you find it ironic, especially regarding corner sharpness. Overall, this lens in this combination is a good compromise, but it’s not for pixel peepers. Booth are taken with 24mm. Send me a PN and i will give you the link to my onedrive with the raw´s 1/200 F10 ISO 320 1/200 F9 ISO400

Actually the S220 can be perfectly paired with the MARELUX SOFT snoot, where the Marelux products brings the light to the table. I am actually thinking if I should beef-up my Backscatters HF-1 with their snoot, recently introduced and get a bazooka sized snoot system. Or should I better plug my tiny INON S-220 behind a MARELUX SOFT Lite, making it a compact snoot with huge iris knob, more easy to operate with thick gloves? 🤔

Finning definitely will. It‘s impossible to judge what the best compromise is unless one is really familiar with the local situation. I will not participate in these dives, but I understand that they may shave positive effects as well. Not a simple question!

Yes, I think you are the man who can provide RAW images required by waso. But no, about the sharp corner part that was requested requested by waso, not you. So do you have an underwater RAW file at @24mm hand, you might want to share? It might also be interesting to find out how hard the black corners still come through with the camera submerged + WWL-C attached and at what zoom level ( @28mm @30mm ? ) there will be real corner projection onto the sensor by this lens combination. As I did buy the lens and also have a zoom gear for my housing, I am still pondering with the Idea of adding a wetlens in front to figure out if it is really worth it. I would be very thankful if you @Landvogt1893 could contribute it to this thread with image examples:

There are fewer sharks in the oceans now than in 2011, so it’s not like the conservation work is done and we can sit back. It’s an uphill battle. Shark diving helps a lot. Of course it has to be done in a responsible way. Also note the difference in feeding and baiting. Feeding … I don’t know if that is such a good idea. Looked quickly but can’t see those studies really say anything about modyfying or altering the behavior in individuals. Basically they conclude: Sharks go were they think the food is. (bullsharks went to shallower depths) and big congregations of sharks can cause ”social” issues (many sharks in one spot can cause them to fight with each other). Consequences of feeding/baiting over time in the same spot. Perhaps detrimental to a group of individuals? Perhaps immoral? But it’s not really altering or modifying shark behavior inmo. They are opportunistic by nature and still have that behavior intact. Now with all that said. All shark diving aren’t equal. There are very bad examples out there.

Just my own 2 pence on the Sony side. I've been using my A7C for about 5 years now in a Nauticam housing and YS-D1/D3 strobes. I went that route coming from an RX-100 in Ikelite housing, to keep the overall housing smaller. I basically have three combinations that seem to work, depending on the environment: 1) Most versatile: Kit 28-60mm lens, WWL-1B, and a CMC-1. I've captured Wire Coral goby, then 5 minutes later (attached pics) a porpoise pod, and it all fits in a single travel Pelican Air. 2) Macro: Sony 90mm with MF-2 strobe and OS-1 snoot. Recently added an MFO-3 which adds a sizable amount of versatility to the set-up. For travel, now I'm also stuffing photo gear into another backpack for Macro and WA. 3) WA: Trying to keep things compact, I have the Canon 8-15 with metabones adapter, with the Zen DP100. Good dome for close focus/WA, but I'm kind of thinking about a slightly larger dome like the Nauticam 140mm to improve the IQ on the Zen's softer edges. Anyway, just another opinion. Jim

I guess the lack of a modeling light limits snoot use for the S220? It certainly has the bayonet to accept accessories. The Atom flash is probably where I am headed and just have to live with Manual only with all three of my cameras.

I have a Sea & Sea 77mm Internal Correction Lens designed to correct image aberration and distortion caused on wide angle lenses shooting behind a dome port. The lens 77mm size allows direct attachment to any lens with the same filter thread size. Below is a list if wide-angle lenses that I know of with a 77mm filter thread size that this Sea & Sea Internal Correction Lens can definitely cover: Canon EF 16-35mm F/4L USM Canon EF 17-40mm F/4L USM Canon RF 14-35mm f/4 L IS USM Lens Nikon AF-S 16-35mm F/4G ED VR Nikon AF-S 18-35mm F/3.5-4.5G ED Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 20mm f/1.8G ED Lens Nikon NIKKOR Z 20mm f/1.8 S Lens Rokinon 20mm f/1.8 ED AS UMC Lens (Both Canon EF and Nikon F) Venus Optics Laowa 10mm f/2.8 Zero-D FF Autofocus Lens (Both Nikon Z and Sony E) Viltrox AF 16mm f/1.8 Lens (Both Nikon Z and Sony E) ZEISS Milvus 18mm f/2.8 ZE Lens (Both Canon EF and Nikon F) Condition: Like new with no scratches, marks or stains. Comes with the following: 85mm protective filter cap. Sensei PRO 67-77mm Brass Step-Up Ring should you want to try it on a wide-angle lens with a 67mm filter thread mount. Protective case for both Sea & Sea 77mm Internal Correction Lens and Sensei PRO 67-77mm Brass Step-Up Ring. Selling price $300 – includes free shipping in the US. You will need to PM me to discuss shipping options. Items located in Palm Beach Florida.

If you mean me – where did I say that the corners are super sharp?

I use a Sony A7IV in a Nauticam housing. Wide angle setup: Canon 8-15mm with Sony 2x TC and a Metabones V adapter, 140mm domeport. Plenty sharp imho, differences need pixel peeping and do not matter in real life, but what does matter is light, and I need to bump up ISO. If your diving deep in dark waters, e.g. photographing wreck Jura at 40m in Lake Constance, and you want available light in your image, that gets more tricky, so I take out the TC. For everything else? Stays on it. Macro setup: Sony 90mm macro and potentially a diopter. If money would not be an issue, I might switch to an FCP, but honestly I'd buy an EMWL before that.

If you are trying to avoid products manufactured in mainland China then be aware that Nauticam and Marelux products are both manufactured in the Shenzhen Guangdong area of China which is north of the island of Hong Kong. In fact the two manufacturing locations are about 10 miles (16kilometers) apart from each other. The point being they are both equally affected by tariffs, cost of raw materials, labor cost and so on. Both companies are innovative and have raised the bar for U/W photo products. We should all consider that competition is always good for consumers.

Been there there in summer 2025, spend a few days in Pico and Faial, had overall 4 dives on Condor Bank, between 2 and 8 sharks in parallel. For the diving itself, @Nando Diver has given a great overview 👌 The only thing I'd add is: ask the dive centers about their rules & processes before diving. Some give you the briefing short but before every shark dive, some give you an extensive briefing before your first shark dive of the entire stay. Some allow strobes & video lights, some don't. I can definitely recommend CWAzores in Pico, very professional, fairly priced, nice staff, really knowledgeable. I cannot recommend the dive center I've been to in Faial (Seariders).

Looking forward to see some test Macroview Vs MFO-3! And don't forget the price!

This may not be understandable at first but as someone who has to travel to dive i would say - save money and travel light. In my world it means get nauticam housing with 30mm port + WACP-C + new 105 macro + 100mm new macro lens + 28-60 for wacp-c + (perhaps) sony TC2x - and you will be set for foreseeable future for everything from lembeh creatures to big ocean stuff like Socorro mantas etc. For both photo and video. Just stay away from adapted stuff - looks nice on paper but in reality unless you have it lying around not worth the headache. Image shot with WACP-C at 60mm on A1 (yes its a crop but you have 50MP too so what...)

China copy of a Hong Kong China company product? Its China all the way down!

Buzzer is more annoying than useful. Personally, i would just use it as is if simple measures can't fix it.

Wow, that's actually great news! .. for me as a user / potential buyer to finally see some quick competition catching up. We need more companies to break the Nauticam uw lens monopoly. If it's coming at a reasonable price, I'll probably order one from Hydronalin.

It's very ironic that you start to discuss about corner sharpness performance of a lens that does not project corners at all to the sensor 🤣 😂 ... But I am 100% with WASO and would love to see some RAW files with that lens + WWL-C.