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As Chip has pointed out several lenses both rectilinear and fisheye work better in a 140mm full or near full hemisphere domes compared to larger non-fisheye domes like the 170/180mm verity. Also Chris has eluded to the physics of virtual image in a dome port where the larger the dome port the further the virtual image is from the lens. So the closer a lens focuses the smaller the port it will focus in. For the 140mm fisheye dome my experience been that lenses that have a minimum focus distance of around 16cm or less work best. These are a few I have tested in the Marelux 140mm fisheye dome port. This is my favorite 140mm fisheye dome simply because the sun shade bayonets on and off making it easy to use underwater. Rectilinear lenses include, Laowa 10mm F/2.8 AOV 130.4 degrees, Minimum focus distance 12cm, Retail $799.00 Laowa 12mm F/2.8 AOV 122 degrees, MFD 14cm, Retail $699.00 Viltrox 14mm F/4 Air, AOV 112 degrees, MFD 13cm, Retail $199.00 (High IQ for cost and better corners than the Sony 14mm F/1.8 at MFD of 25cm and the Rokinon 14mm F/2.8 MFD of 20cm) Sony FE 16mm F/1.8 G, AOV 107 degrees, MFD 15mm, Retail $898.00 Sony FE 20mm F/1.8 and 24mm F/2.8 G lenses both focus to 18cm but at 94 and 84 degrees they will still work Fisheye lenses include Canon EF 8-15mm F/4L, AOV 180 to 175 degrees, MFD 15cm, Retail $1299.00 plus Sigma or Metabones for Sony lens converter, Nikon made an 8-15 much like the Canon but harder to fine in the used market and the Nikon to Sony converters don't work as well as those for Canon. Sigma 15mm F/2.8 EX fisheye for Canon EF, works with the same converters as the Canon fisheye zoom, AOV 180 degrees, MFD 15cm, used market. strHori 6mm F/2.8 circular fisheye, 220 degree AOV, MFD 8cm, Retail $299.00, This is an all MANUAL lens which I set to F/11 with focus pre-set for max DOF from about eight inches to beyond visibility. This port also works with macro lenses in the 50mm to 150mm range adding back original AOV, increasing corner sharpness and reducing CA.

Still looking for these in case anyone with one to sell did not see my post made during the holiday period

I could not figure out a better place to put this - I have a reefnet subsee that I don't use much. My wife is not a photographer but likes looking at macro stuff through a magnifier sometimes. I was thinking of getting the magnifier handle from reefnet so she could use my lens, but I have never seen one and cannot find a picture or description online. I am not even sure if reefnet is actually still in business so it may mot matter, although they show these as available on their rarely updated website. Anyone have any info on this thing?

FYI. I have already sold the lens, but am still interested in buying the port.

The above RAW files shows what the sensor captures. The corners are pitch black with no photons hitting them. If you have an R5 or R6 II or other full frame camera you paid a lot of money for the FULL FRAME SENSOR; and you also collect more real light when utilizing the full frame of the sensor. Lens corrections makes you throw away a substantial amount of your expensive sensor. That’s just bad! In the case of the 24-50mm STM it is really really bad and I think it’s the lens in the RF system that throws away light, the by the largest amount. It‘s almost a circular fisheye 😆 You can solve this by zooming in and get sharper corner JPEGs and RAWs.

Selling my Letonpower Sealion L24 12,000‑lumen underwater video/focus light. Used on one dive trip (~4 dives total) and in excellent, near‑new condition. Fully tested, never flooded, and maintained properly after each use. This is a complete kit with all original accessories, the original case, and four nearly‑new 18650 batteries (light uses 3 → 1 spare). Ready to dive. Included Sealion L24 12,000‑lumen video/focus light 4× 18650 batteries (~4 dive cycles each) Original protective case USB charging cable Tether Spare O‑rings O‑ring grease Manual Full original accessory kit Condition Notes Only ~4 dives Impeccable cosmetic and functional condition O‑rings cleaned/greased after each use Stored dry with caps off Beam tested: clean, even, no flicker Never flooded Why I’m Selling Consolidating my lighting kit. Price $185 shipped (US) Local pickup available in San Antonio, TX. Happy to answer questions or provide additional photos.

Absolutely stunning. I have no words. What a great job !!👏

In wintertime, when the mediterranean sea temperature drops to 13-14ºC is when the posidonia becomes greener and shorter. Not as spectacular as a coral reef but it also has its charm.

Sent you a DM regarding the Pana 8mm lens.

Yes, I know, If that 6" dome port was glass made I wold probably buy it, but it's plastic.

Hi @foetusmachine - to you get the info you want, it would be helpful if you would share specific lenses or purposes (wide angle, CFWA, macro, etc.) for which you are seeking. In addition to the Laowa 10mm Chris shared, I frequently use the Nauticam 140 with the Canon EF 8-15 with the MC-11 adaptor with my Sony a1, and Sony a7rIV previously. While not native Sony glass, this system works extremely well with the 140 dome for both wide angle and CFWA. It also works well with the Kenko 1.4x TC without significant loss of corner sharpness. In short, this is the most frequent combination and use case for the 140 dome due to the full hemispherical design. Hope this helps, chip

Thanks @Phil Rudin for the info. However, I'm wonder how the wet lens (both WWL-1B and Aquista 130) works with EF 16-35 F2.8. As most of the result I've seen are from RF-S 18-45 or RF 24-50, which is not that impressive. If that also apply to EF 16-35, then I might try to find EF 8-15 Fisheye during my trip to Japan.

Isotta dome in glass exist only in 6.5" the 6" is not glass

This is not mine, but has been posted elsewhere in the forums. A Zoom gear for the Tokina 10-17mm inside a Salted Line housing. Would be interested to know if someone here has already tried it:

I was told that new Nauticam version doesn't have the lug rig screwed to the body but machined with it, so if i find an old version second hand would be great. And the Isotta dealer in Spain doesn't recommend this 4,5" dome, he says i still will find blurry corners, a bit less that with the 4" but still a little bit. So I'm looking for different options. And today I have found this Howshot 140 mm dome ports https://www.divervision.com/products/howshot-140mm-optical-fisheye-port-for-seaandsea-nx-s120-mount-ofp-140-s120?_pos=2&_sid=f7fbcc98d&_ss=r Which is glass, and looks like the Nauticam one but for pretty much half the price, but I don't have any reference of it. So basically at this moment I don't know what to do, the only thing I know is that I need a 6" dome port neither smaller nor bigger, I prefer glass, but If I don't find anyone which fits me in terms of money I'm open to plastic domes.

I guess is it's too big for CFWA

Isotta have a 4.5"glass dome, you can also use a Nauticam 140mm dome by changing the lug ring to an Isottta/Sea and Sea lug ring.

Oups I checked it's a 6"5 "Isotta Glas Domeport 6.5" für Isotta DSLR"

I have an 6" Isotta dome to sell

Hey @kalani I'm also looking into this. Several people have used the Tokina 10-17mm in their Salted Line housing, and there is even one zoom gear available for 3D printing that can be fitted in (see here: https://waterpixels.net/forums/topic/566-salted-line-tokina-10-17mm-zoom-gear/#comment-1560). I'm currently thinking of buying a Tokina 10-17mm lens, only thing I'm not sure yet is about the fixed petal hood, which could pose a problem inside the dome port.

I’ll be in Hulhumale late March, so will see what the situation is then.

Hi all, I'm looking for a 140 mm glass dome port which I can use with my Isotta housing, and due to another post in this forum I have discover this HowShot dome ports which I didn't know. If anyone can give me information about the quality it would be great. After upgrading to the Canon R6 mkII camera in Isotta housing I found out that the corners in the pictures with the 4" dome port are blurry, so I have to purchase a 6" dome port. The options are Nauticam 140mm glass dome port, which are really expensive when I finally adapt it to my Isotta, I also can purchase Sea&Sea and Isotta 6" dome ports but this ones are plastic, and in these brands the glass domes are 6,5" which are to big for CFWA. So this HowShot looks great in size and price, but I don't know anything about them.

Really good idea to shoot a mono-colour wall and see what you can see. As @Architeuthis says, same as a dust spot test shot.

As the others say - it may be condensation, especially the last two photos... I am not sure that the black shadows is condensation as well, maybe it is condensation at the end of the lens or on one or both ends of the TC. Hopefully it is not the sensor (it may be a sensor on the way to die (e.g. moisture inside the layers). One should have a close look at all the components with a loupe (especially at the sensor with a special "sensor loupe" with LED lights, if you have one)... You could also make a test, in order to se whether there are any remains still there (but too faint to be detectable in regular photos) and to locate the source: first entire configuration (camera/TC/Canon8-15mm). Make focused (also defocused) photos of a homogeneous white wall. Then overprocess in LR (unnaturally high contrast/clarity/defogging) to see whether there are any remains of the shadows visible (similar to testing the sensor for dust speckles). In case you see some remains, first remove TC and repeat. When still there try another lens. When it shows up also with another lens, it is, unfortunately the sensor...

For me like the other... condensation I allways try to close the housing in a an air conditioned space... (if it is possible)