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Yes, Marelux to Nauticam in N120.

I wonder if you could rig some sort of non contact switch like a magnetic reed switch? I've considered that for the vacuum alarm so I can keep it sealed without killing batteries

Mission 1 PRO Geek Specs source: https://gethypoxic.com/blogs/technical/gopro-mission-1-gp3-image-pipeline?srsltid=AfmBOor-e-oIthDwYXOFHH8EzGzTZNlxCYO8LmyoYK1ITQtIKZ9LK70w

Wonderful! Glad you got it working.

You were absolutely on the right track, and that observation cracked the nut. It was just a tiny amount of dirt on the sensor that was messing things up. I got exactly the same response to cracking the back that you did, and kept trying to figure out how to reposition the lever or move the rubber eye guard on the viewfinder to allow better position. That's when I noticed a thin film of dust on the eye sensor. A quick clean-up with a Q-tip/isopropanol, and now the VF/LCD swich works perfectly. THANK YOU! Now I can assign the C3 button for something more useful. :)

Of note this is not present on the a7iii housing. So likely was a good idea that didn't work too well. I wish that I could do eye detection for the EVF because the I could easily use the LCD for settings like on a traditional DSLR

I see extension rings for using Nauticam ports on Marelux housings, is there a forthcoming extension for doing the opposite?

No problem. My sense was that moving the VF shutter farther away from the VF sensor was what made the difference. Even before I added fresh paint, unlatching the back and letting it sit a few millimeters further back from normal made the switch very reliable. Either way, hopefully it gives you some avenues to pursue to try to get yours working.

Thanks for both replies. My apologies if I came off as dismissive in my first response. I was trying to acknowledge that solution and bend the discussion toward the lever function. Bending the lever restoring function is super interesting! I'll definitely look into that. I wonder if the paint actually is the key, as it doesn't make a ton of sense to have the shutter cover the VF when the switch is in LCD position, unless the reflectivity of the white paint is being used to trigger the "no eye present" signal. I'll try to adjust position and look into how that sensing system on the camera works so we can better fool it with the shutter.

I am a Sony user so I have not tested many Canon lenses full frame but I am curious why the most obvious Canon RF 28-70mm F/2.8 IS STM lens is not listed on the Nauticam or Marelux page for wet wide lenses. It seems small enough and has an expectable minimum focus distance. With the two Nauticam lenses ( WACP-C & WACP-1) and the Aquista 135D the lenses are designed to be their widest at around 28mm with Nauticam at 130 AOV max and Marelux at 135 AOV max. The only three full frame lenses I am aware of that will zoom through the entire zoom range with wet wides are the Sony 28-70mm and 28-60mm kit lenses plus the internal focusing $2900.00 Nikon Z 24-70mm F/2.8 S II which works with the WACP-1/1B and WACP-C with the proper port extension's. The 28-70mm offering give an AOV range from 130-59 degrees while the Sony 28-60 gives an AOV of 130 to 69 degrees. Many Z users have adopted the Sony kits using an adapter to avoid the expensive Nikon lens. I don't believe Sony lenses can be adapted to the Canon RF mount but I could be wrong. Any of the other lenses listed regardless of a starting point of 14mm, 16mm 24mm are all going to need to be zoomed to 28mm to get to 130 degrees without vignetting. Then be zoomed out until they stop or hit the wet lens which is the case with lenses like the Tamron 28-75mm which extends from 28-40mm before hitting the wet lens and gives an AOV from 130 to 90 degrees but only with WACP-1/1B. I don't expect that a 24-105mm would do any better. These limitations are listed on the Nauticam port charts but have not yet been added to the Marelux charts. Next you have the issue of port extension sizes on full frame. Nauticam has both N100 and N120 sizes which complicates the issue somewhat while Marelux uses the five inch system for all current full frame housings. Last you have the issue of the diameter of the wet lens. If you look at WWL-1/1B, WACP-C and WACP-1 they all are widest (130 degrees) at 28mm and get progressively better in terms of corner sharpness and use at lower F/numbers the greater the diameter. The larger the diameter the greater number of lenses that can be used as well with the $11000.00 WACP-2 at 280mm having the greatest number of lens options. With WACP-C at 170mm, Marelux 135D at 180mm and WACP-1/1B at 190mm you should be able to extrapolate out to get an idea of what each wet lens should be able to do in terms of lens selection and the rest. None of the charts for full frame lenses list any primes that I am aware of but that could change going forward. I have a few of the excellent Veltrox primes for lens use above water and intend to try the Viltrox AF 28mm F/1.8 for Sony at some point with Aquista 135D to see how it compares to the lovely Laowa 10 and 12mm F/2.8 offerings. The Laowa 12mm works very well in the Marelux 140mm dome and makes a very small package at a rectilinear 122 degrees.

Sorry, I was trying to save you from having to turn the camera off and on every time you want to switch. I don't use the VF/LCD switch myself as I always use a monitor, but after playing around with mine, I discovered that mine only works when the back of the housing is unlatched and a few millimeters further back than when it's latched. In other words, it seems that when the housing is closed, the VF shutter is too close to the camera to work properly. I then tried bending the VF shutter back some, though there's very little room to bend it back since the housing VF is right behind it. I also tried adding a little bit of fresh white paint inside the little rectangle at the bottom of the shutter (I suspect it plays a role since it passes over the VF sensor). After doing both of these things, my switch now sometimes works with the back latched, but it's still not reliable like when the back is unlatched. I think bending the shutter back was the thing that helped rather than adding the paint. So for a fix (assuming yours has the same issue as mine), I would suggest looking into ways to either move the shutter slightly back or the camera slightly forward.

Had exactly the same problem several years ago: 1 slightly leaking button. The Housing was not even wet.

That much I have been able to learn from various guides online, but it begs the question of why there is a VF/LCD lever with an attached shutter on the housing if it has no function, and if the only way to switch between the two is the use of a custom button assignment.

I don't think it is this as much as it is really easy to over zoom underwater and then be frustrated with the results. Are you at 24 or 28? Sometimes hard to tell. I know I would mess it up. Or maybe I just identified myself as a smart ass customer. You bring up many good points- I really struggle with some of the lenses not projecting fully on the sensor, only because I often find that when you put a lens behind a dome, sometimes the canon profiles get wonky. Or they do stupid things like try to correct a fisheye....like I bought a fisheye for a reason! So you have to turn off the canon profile which then adds to some pretty heavy vingetting and then cropping to not have a meh to bad photo. How will canon lenses and their profiles work with the Aquista 135d? Would be great to know. Just because there will be caveats, that doesn't mean we don't want reviews. For example - the 15-30 STM lens should work as a 130 degree lens at 28-30 (sometimes on Nauticam options) - I would love to see examples of that. Can we see that same option for the Aquista 135d? If so, that would help me want the lens. If the 24-105 STM also worked well but one needed to zoom a bit and doesn't get past 50, I'd just love to see what it looks like behind these dry (or wet) optics. Its not like we don't have tons of caveats and work arounds for all of our time underwater to deal with the challenging lighting conditions.

You should be able to set "Finder/Monitor" to one of the "Manual" modes and set a custom button (such as C3) to "Finder/Moniter Sel." to allow you to quickly switch between them.

I can put a couple of connectors in an envelope for you that will work better and can be assembled/disassembled easily. No glue needed. Message me with an address.

A blob of Superglue a few millimetres below the end of the cable.

Does anyone know the best way to fix this- I have tried just popping the cord into the connector head but it always just pops out and doesn't stay in....

Sony/Nauticam users, I have a (dumb?) question for y'all about the LCD/ViewFinder switch on the housing. Namely: Does it actually have any function and can you really configure things to use that to switch between the two modes somehow? As it stands, I can't see any way to get that switch to function productively. In VF position, I can definitely use the viewfinder. In LCD position, it brings down the black shutter and blocks the viewfinder, but that doesn't seem to aid in activating the LCD at all? Quite the opposite, as if the camera is in auto VF/LCD mode, blocking the viewfinder triggers the auto sensor and turns off the LCD. So, is there a way to tweak the camera settings to make that switch functional? I've tried reading the online guides, but all I can find is info on assigning a custom button to bring up the viewfinder menu and then switching manually, but that doesn't use the switch on the housing. So, why have the switch if it is not at all functional??? As an aside, the easiest way I currently can find to switch between the two modes, is to simply turn off the camera and then turn it back on. It'll activate the LCD until the first time I look through/block the viewfinder at which point it turns off the LCD and then it stays off until I repeat the power cycle. If there's a better way, I"m all ears. Thanks for any info you can share!

I had condensation problems for a while, eventually traced it to a leak on one of the buttons. when i pressed it a tiny drop of water got in. Stripping down the button and cleaning the shaft cured the problem.

Ive optimized the GP13 with Gopro labs FW + 2 dive lights (5000Lumens) and AOI wide angle lens, it works very well between 10cm and 50cm. The Mission 1 pro dynamic range is capable of doing much better than the GP13 like ambient with or without natural light, but M1PRO has more like cinema softness image that dont work well underwater. My advice, take a backup camera...the GR140 will help but will be far from perfect.. Also any other video mode outside of gplog2 will be waste of time in underwater Mode, increase the resolution to 300Mbps using gopro labs FW, Max ISO 800..

That would of course be another option, but it would take me a little more time to switch quickly. I'll probably start by training my little finger.😁

First test in water today on the A7SIII with the Anker Nano powerbank - I opened the housing and turned on the powerbank 20 minutes before the dive. The first dive was 120 minutes, and the powerbank powered the camera for 90 minutes, after which it turned off (empty?) and the battery went to camera battery mode. I had 80% camera battery power left at the end of the dive. Now turning off the camera when not in use, I went for a second dive, 110 minutes, and camera battery was at 38% at the end of the second dive. This gives me an estimated runtime of 225 minutes for a new Sony NP-FZ100 battery, to which the Anker powerbank adds roughly 90 minutes, so a total of roughly 315 minutes (5 hours 15 minutes), being conservative (turning off the camera) when on the camera battery. I was shooting 4K video, 60fps to 120fps

Heres a 240fps clip Notice the focus diference between the fish school that are closed to the camera (in focus) to the others further away (not in focus) Ive adjust the blurry in davinci to be more noticeable in the clip. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jHAZiEgX94

To be honest, I expect worst at that close distance. I will see with a close-up lens how it will be.