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Nikon Z8 + Nauticam NA-Z8 manual Trigger + Retra Pro Max: First-Shot Sync Band at 1/200s
My Nauticam trigger also works fine. It is just very basic and does not support key features like Rear curtain or HSS. Combined with random sync/preflash compatibility issues I think there are better options.
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Nikon Z8 + Nauticam NA-Z8 manual Trigger + Retra Pro Max: First-Shot Sync Band at 1/200s
FWIW, I have the 11032 and have had no issues with a Z8 and pro max and maxi strobes. I would imagine that whatever the issue, UWT will make it right. I had a problem with my first 11032 and sent it in for examination/repair and a new was sent to me.
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Anyone else tinker to make uncommon lenses work in a housing?
I have tried a verity of manual focus lenses behind a verity of dome and flat ports, including the Laowa 15mm 1:2 macro. I found the Laowa not to be worth the effort. Wide lenses like the 110 degree AOV 15 Laowa need to be to close to get to 1:2 inside a dome port. With wide primes you have the cost of the lens + the custom focus gear and in the case of the 15mm Laowa you would still only be able to get to about 1:4/5 behind a 200mm dome or larger dome. You would be able to do the same or better with the 112 degree 14mm F/4 Viltrox which has a more achievable 1:4.35 magnification at a minimum focus distance of 13cm. The lens retails for $199.00 in the US, got mine on sale for $159.00 on sale and works with Sony FE and Nikon Z. I have also used the Sony 14mm F/1.8, Sigma 14mm, Sanyang/Rokinon 14mm AF lenses and the cheap Viltrox is every bit as good in a dome because of its close minimum focus. Same/same with the Rokinon 14-24mm F/2.8 which has a minimum focus of 18cm, all the other 14-24mm lenses and 12-24mm"s focus to 28cm which is a disadvantage behind a port. The Rokinon is also the only lens that can be used with 77mm front filters. I used the AstrHori 6mm F/2.8 220 degree circular Fisheye, a manual lens in Bali last year pre-setting the lens at F/11 and just shy of infinity on the focus ring. This gave me around 8 inches to infinity in a 140mm dome. This lens can be had for Sony FE, Nikon Z, Canon RF and L mount systems for a retail of $299.00 US. If you are looking for cheap options to expensive lenses like a Canon or Nikon 8-15mm or 7-14mm for circular Fisheye this is a fun alternative. I have tried a lot more to numerous to list. Images from AstrHori in 140 Marelux dome.
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How do you master Davinci Resolve?
Yeah, RAW workflows can be challenging, especially when they first came onto the scene. Back then, most editing packages couldn’t handle RAW footage natively, so you had to render or transcode everything into a workable format before you could even start editing. It added a whole extra step to the workflow and took up a lot of time and storage. If I’m shooting stock or working on my own projects, I’ll usually go through the footage, dump anything that’s unusable, and back up everything worth keeping. I have several RAID 5 systems that I use to store my footage, and when you’re dealing with RAW files, that storage gets expensive pretty quickly. :) When I’m shooting for a production, it’s a different story. I generally hand the footage over to the production team and they take it from there. They’ll dump and back up everything, then catalogue and detail each clip before it makes its way into the edit. Working with RAW today is definitely much easier. Most modern editing packages can handle multiple codecs and formats on the same timeline, which makes life considerably easier than having to transcode everything into a single format before editing. That said, you still have to be smart about your workflow. Just because you can edit everything at the highest possible resolution and quality doesn’t necessarily mean you should. Start throwing multiple streams of high-resolution RAW footage, effects, colour grades, and graphics onto a timeline and things can get complicated—and demanding on your system—very quickly. Proxies and optimized media can still be your best friends.
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Will the new Insta360 X6 get a dive case? I am not so sure.
Hummmm on the other side, I'll only need this camera underwater ;) Change one time and that's it. 😀 I have a X4... took it with me during a dive trip.... and since never again... For me it's a feature for instagrammer ..;)
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Diving in Hong Kong
Hey all I'm traveling from work to Hong Kong at the end of October and staying through the beginning of November. I'll have a few days for diving from about the 6th to the 9th of November. Does anyone have a recommendation for a diving center or a guide in that area? I hope to find nudies, frogfish, etc., and who knows, maybe even a blue ring octopus :) Sagi
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Sarthur1 started following Diving in Hong Kong
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Sony 100mm macro with MFO-3, add SMC?
I used it at the lens' 60mm FF equivalent on the LX10, and there was quite an increase in image sharpness compared to the bare flat port. What also really impressed me is how focus peaking points doubled, this is the first thing I noticed, and how snappy the AF was. I'm not sure how the LX10's rather dreadful AF worked, but I'm guessing this linked to contrast somehow. I posted this in the other thread at the time, but here is a screen capture a raw clip shot, Lumix LX10 + MFO1 at 60mm equivalent, 4K 30fps (larval long-arm octopus)
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Sony 100mm macro with MFO-3, add SMC?
You may be interested in this pool test, if you haven't seen it already: https://waterpixels.net/forums/topic/2612-sony-100-mm-macro/page/6/#comment-21021 After 9 months of use - the 100mm is a fantastic lens. But I seldom add the 1.4xTC and never the 2.0xTC, the focal length and reach is too long for regular macro subjects. I would recommend getting the double adapter and the SMC-3.
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Will the new Insta360 X6 get a dive case? I am not so sure.
So the question has been answered. Now, the youtube is full with X6 promotion reviews but only very few underwater footage so far. The only longer test is by Hugh Hou (only snorkelling) and the information he has shared is a bit troubling. In order to use the dive case, you have to change the lens on the camera. I think it has to do with the 1 inch sensor and the hyperfocal distance set by the above water lens, plus the dome of the dive case. It will be interesting to see some real scuba diving tests.
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Interested in high quality, low weight/size UW photography + want to know more about Marketplace functions
Hi Joakim, Chris beat me to it - that thread that he linked to should give you a pretty good idea on the various thoughts on what is available in the more compact/lightweight systems and the relative size differences.
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Anyone else tinker to make uncommon lenses work in a housing?
I'm interested in having a tinker with some odd macro lenses from China, and also some CFWA lenses such as the Laowa 15mm CFWA lens. Laowa seem to have some unusual lenses in their range actually.
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Sony 100mm macro with MFO-3, add SMC?
Is this at the wider angles available on the LX-10 zoom? As I understand things the MFO lenses are designed to compensate for diffraction problems of shooting through a flat port and this is deterioration of quality steadily getting worse as the angle of view increases. On 105mm macro lenses the effect is fairly minimal but noticeable on 50-60mm lenses (FF equivalent) and getting worse as you zoom out. It would make sense that macro lenses with a wider field would be helped more. Add to that there is less water to image through and things improve on both fronts.
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Anyone else tinker to make uncommon lenses work in a housing?
You'll find a few people on here who are keen to try lenses that are not on the port charts, it's an interesting exercise and some people like the challenge and to try new things. Myself it's an exercise I know a bit about, but for me if it doesn't have AF and auto diaphragm I'm not that interested, apart from Nikonos lenses which are really only readily adaptable to a few specific systems I question if there is any possibility of significantly improved performance, at least as far as lenses behind a regular dome goes. If you search you might find some posts on specific lenses, popular topics include using Nauticam wet optics in other systems and alternative lenses not on the port chart for the wet lenses. There's also a lot of discussion about 3D printing zoom/focus gears for adapted lenses. I recall a classic I think triplet lens being talked about as well.
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Interested in high quality, low weight/size UW photography + want to know more about Marketplace functions
Welcome Joakim, hope you find the forum useful. Feel free to browse the forums, on you specific question there is a long thread which is likely relevant here: Have a good read and feel free to post follow up question in this topic or for different aspects open a new topic.
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Proven 3D printed Parts For Underwater Imaging
I've been wondering if a magnetic focus gear like Inon uses in their MRS system would be possible to adapt to other housings. Then you don't need a different gear when changing extensions or adding TCs. Just an idea I've had in the back of my mind.
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Interested in high quality, low weight/size UW photography + want to know more about Marketplace functions
Hi Joakim A warm welcome to Waterpixels. Good to have you with us. Marketplace is a service to members who can buy and sell items. Before you can post on Marketplace , you need to make a total of three posts on other threads. This is part of our system to try and deter spammers. Marketplace is free, essentially a deal reached between buyer and seller. There are no commissions involved as far as Waterpixels are concerned. We always advise caution. Is the seller a long-established member of Waterpixel; does the deal sound reliable; is the payment method something standard or weird? I’ve bought and sold lots of times and always found it easy and. hassle-free. We are fortunate that the vast majority of members are thoroughly decent people. I hope that helps. Best wishes Tim
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Anyone else tinker to make uncommon lenses work in a housing?
I shoot rather a lot with Nikono manual wet lenses, it's rather a pain to get focus correct and they are literally built for it. I would not want to shoot a manual lens which wasn't a specific corrected wet optic especially behind a dome.
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Interested in high quality, low weight/size UW photography + want to know more about Marketplace functions
Hello, New member here, but interested in snorkeling ever since I first stuck my nose below the water surface in the Red Sea and the Maldives - and interested in photography since like forever. Freelance journalist based in Sweden, but travelling extensively across the world (www.joakimradstrom.com). Bought an underwater housing for my Canon EOS Mark IV, but found it a bit unwieldy. Therefore, happy to hear suggestions for equipment that combine excellent photo quality with light weight. Interested to know more about Marketplace - how does it work, and what is required before one can start posting there? //Joakim, Sweden
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Sony 100mm macro with MFO-3, add SMC?
No, the MFO1 - the LX10 has a zoom lens, so no need for the MFO3 - I got the MFO1 a couple of weeks before I transitioned to the A7SIII so did a few bonfire dives with the MFO-1 on the LX10, and it was really impressive. Like an AF and IQ update (faster focus acquisition, crisper/sharper image and double the amount of focus peaking points - I was shooting in manual focus with peaking as a reference, so this was really striking - the LX10 was in 60mm equivalent). I also have the MFO-3 and it's great - for blackwater style video on the A7SIII with the 100mm, I shoot 80% with the MFO-3, switching to the MFO-1 when I need more magnification.
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Sony 100mm macro with MFO-3, add SMC?
You mean MFO-3 (or did you use MFO-1 with LX10)? I have MFO-3 and this diopter clearly improves IQ by reducing (the rather large) distance to medium size subjects (and decreasing focal length) and hence reducing the detoriating effect of water on IQ (Sony 100mm GM)...
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Anyone else tinker to make uncommon lenses work in a housing?
I was just wondering if there was anyone else who tinker around to do things like make a manual focus lens for which there is no assigned port somehow work etc by adapting bits and pieces etc.?
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Sony 100mm macro with MFO-3, add SMC?
Keep in mind that I was just measuring the minimum distance at which the lens could acquire focus, not the effect on actual magnification. I actually appreciate having these extra 4 cm of working distance to with, even though light repositioning isn't always easy. The MFO1's heavy restriction on infinity focus is interesting - I use the MFO-3, which, like the MFO1, requires the lens limiter switches to to be turned off (as well as lens OSS when shooting video), but having the MFO-1 on the bare lens acts like a physical limiter, blocking focus hunting at roughly 23cm from the glass. It's quite restrictive but I tend to shoot quite close with the 100mm anyway, and this is actually an advantage for AF as Chris wrote above (and there's always the option to flip it off to use the full range). On IQ, as mentioned, it was really impressive on a lower quality lens like the LX10's zoom lens. Image was sharper, and the number of focus peaking points doubled, probably linked to an increase in contrast. I can't say the results are as impressive on a great lens like the 100mm, and video is not the best for pixel peeping anyway.
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Sony 100mm macro with MFO-3, add SMC?
This does not sound good, since distance to subject is greatly reduced by MFO-1 (I do not own MFO-1). Using the 1,4x TC seems to be the much better way to increase magnification to me (at least with Sony 100mm GM; with other lenses TCs might not be possible). Storytelling says that MFO-1 improves IQ (at least in theory), but I did not see a rigorous demonstration yet (e.g. testchards)...
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Mikomoto
Just to add one data point- I booked 3 days - Sat, Sun, Mon - managed to get out all 3 days, but abysmal conditions all 3 days First 2 days, was in the morning group, maybe 5m of visibility. Saw 1 single hammerhead each day from somewhat far away Third day, only the afternoon session was available, I would say less than 5m viz, water was a chilly 20 degrees, saw nothing on either dive. Think this was also because there was another tropical storm that was scheduled to hit the day after. There was only one dive on the second day where our guide said she saw a group of 5-6 very briefly but no one else in the group saw. I may have picked the worst days / gotten very unlucky with the typhoons but frankly I'm not sure I fully believe their dive logs anymore. Or rather, it is not representative. They cram 40-50 divers into each session so you have 80-100 people diving each day and maybe 1 group had 1 sighting... but my second day they posted that big school supposedly in the morning and visibility was nothing like what I had seen in the water. I will not be back. At 20 degree waters, I rather make the trip to Galapagos or Socorro or Cocos for more guaranteed sightings. If I were to stay within Asia, I rather give Banda sea another shot before coming back to Mikomoto. I really hate dives where there is only a singular focus and if you don't see the singular thing you want to see there is absolutely nothing else to see. I got unlucky with the hammers in Banda last Oct as well but in no way did I feel that was a wasted trip as there reef was still amazing, vs I saw nothing but rocks (and occassionally some fish) in Mikomoto... Other than test shots I took zero photos or videos in my 3 days :(
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Proven 3D printed Parts For Underwater Imaging
building off of this, a ring specifically for the 1.4 and 2.0 TC's would also be nice. I've always wondered if it would be possible to make focus ring extensions for this very purpose.