All Activity

Sure, that sounds interesting! I'd love to give them a try and share a review. I will send you a message on the subject. Thanks for the opportunity. The top image is the Pro Max II? I think I can see the booster. It looks like it has a slightly broader spread and a warmer color temperature.

All of these diopters would be sealed using o-rings I would guess, so it's possible a minute amount of water has entered - probably just a trace amount. If it's water vapor condensing then it should go away if you warm up the diopter a little. Of course it will come back when it cools off but it proves it is likely to be water vapour. Regardless I think taking it apart and replacing o-rings would be required. You would need a tool to remove the retaining ring and be able to source replacement o-rings to fix it.

Hi Dave, would you be interested in doing an independent review? I think Matt can send you his pair when he is not using them. Please send me a message and we will work out the details. The Maxi strobe is optimized for high GN and lithium performance instead of the refined light quality and compact size of our Pro series strobes. There are obvious differences in the light they produce, comparison below. The Maxi reaches about 80% of the light quality that our Pro series strobes offer.

This was in answer to your questions regarding the Sony 2x with 8-15. That is possible as the Sony-EF metabones acts as a 26mm spacer to allow you to add the 2x or 1.4x and the 8-15 still focuses. Remember in a dome you are focusing on a virtual image so are focusing very close. You would think that having a spacer between the 1.4x or 2x and the 8-15 would not focus, but testing on Sony systems using a Sony 1.4x or 2x on the camera then a metabones adapter then the Canon 8-15 shows it works perfectly well and the image quality with the Sony 1.4x is better than using the Kenko. If you could replicate the same spacer as the Sony setup with Metabones and the 8-15 you might be able to do something similar with the Canon setup. It was discussed previously on the forum- if an RF 1.4x would work with the Canon RF-EF converter but unfortunately people tried and it doesn't work, apparently an extra tab on the RF 1.4x prevents mounting the Canon RF-EF adapter and the ID is too small for the 1.4x nose. If you were interested to experiment it might be possible to do something similar to the Sony setup with a Canon RF system, this link has some discussion, scroll to second last post and look at the video: So this setup would be RF 1.4x on camera then the modified third party RF-EF adapter then the Canon 8-15 Unfortunately this method requires taking a file to a third party RF-EF adapter but if you did that it might work with the RF 1.4x. Of course it is a gamble as you would not be able to return the adapter after filing if it doesn't work, so you would need to be prepared to take that risk, plus you are hoping the image is better to justify trying it out. I had a thought that maybe using a Canon EF 1.4x and an extension tube mounted to an RF-EF adpter might work, however I tried this on a CANON DSLR I have and a 25mm extension tube and it won't focus. It might work with a 12mm after market extension but it would be a gamble. In both the Canon and the Sony case the total spacing of the Metabones or RF-EF adapter plus the camera flange distance is equal to the Canon EF flange distance of 44mm which is likely why it can focus correctly. which makes me think the EF 1.4x option probably would not work. On the WACP-C vs WWL-1 vs WWL-C I seem to recall posts from people on SONY systems expressing the view that the WWL-1 and WACP were nearly equivalent with the same lens and depending on the lens the long end was not as good as the wide end. You could try reading through such posts. Here is an example discussion, where there is a discussion where the Sony 2x plus 8-15 and WACP-C are compared: If you take a pragmatic viewpoint the advantage of the WACP-C lies in flexibility perhaps more so than absolute image quality. The Canon 8-15 with SONY 2x is equivalent in quality to the WACP combo and with the SONY 1.4x is better in image quality than with the kenko 1.4x and also better than the WACP combination - at least on Sony with the 28-60 according to posts in the linked topic. The 8-15 is of course very sharp and bare will have the very best image quality, but lacks reach. Whether the lack of reach is an issue depends on what you are shooting and the reach may allow you to get better images if you needed to crop an 8-15 image.

Hello all, I have a very nice AOI UCL-05 LF +6 diopter (the old model), which I use a lot as it's way sharper than the Inon UCL-165 I used before. However, some faint traces have appeared, and seem to be inside the unit. I first noticed them underwater. I'm guessing this means something is failing, maybe the retaining ring? Can anything be done in this situation? It's an old model, and I'm now in Japan so sending it back to a dealer seems to be difficult. Thanks! Ben

For those wanting to see the news page including a video with Alex and Matthew discussing the strobe here is a link: https://www.retra-uwt.com/products/retra-maxi?srsltid=AfmBOorr_9G-QMUsgogETlI04k5pbBl880_aCycwoIofkEd05Yeksar6

Yes, but they can corrode and they lose tension over time, I would still try and source them if possible.

Looks like Retra is finally, about 13 months later, going to ship the Maxi strobe. Retra UWTRetra Maxi Underwater StrobeORDER NOW AND SECURE EXCLUSIVE PRICING ON THE RETRA MAXI WITH THE VIDEO LIGHT - AVAILABLE ONLY UNTIL DECEMBER 20TH. NOW SHIPPING! Current dispatch time is approximately 2 to 3 weeks. If you have a divPreviously had straight xenon flash elements, now has a circular tube Previously advertised it at $880 with the 6000 lumen video light, now it's $1250 The Backscatter HF-1 was previously $800 or 850, now it's $999 The Maxi is also available without the video light for $1100 Backscatter added the Atom strobe without a video light for $800 It's great to see Retra finally getting to market with a faster strobe with a modern lithium-ion battery source at a lower price point than the ridiculous Pro Max II's at $1969 with the required boosters. Also nice to see that they decided to launch with their traditional circular flash tubes, hopefully getting closer to the Retra style output. However, they seem have given up on competing on price with Backscatter. At least they priced it in the same ballpark as the HF-1. I'll be curious to see some real-world reviews of these new strobes and how they compare to the Pro Max II's and HF-1s. I'll bet there is going to be some buyer's remorse from the Pro Max II early adopters.

Thank you for your detailed answer, Chris! Of course, I've already read many posts here in the forum regarding WA. Unfortunately, it seems no one(!) uses the WACP-C with the 24-50 or the 15-30 STM, or at least I can't find any reviews of it. I've also read DreiFish's excellent posts, but as you mentioned yourself, he only evaluates the 24-50 with the WWL-C. A friend uses the WACP-C on a 5D4 and an old 28-70 (if I remember correctly) and is very impressed compared to the 8-15/4. Perhaps his statement made me too optimistic that I would have significant optical advantages with the WACP-C compared to my 8-15/4 setup. Does anyone here in the forum use the 28-70 (28-80) with a WACP-C? I haven't found any comments on that, at least. Unfortunately, I don't understand this statement - could you explain it again in other words? In my opinion, my only option with the R5 is to use the RF/EF adapter, the Kenko TC and then the 8-15/4 lens. Or do you mean I should replace the Kenko with a Canon RF 1.4x teleconverter (that I already own), then an extension tube and then mount the 8-15/4? Wouldn't I lose focus at infinite distance? Or would that be irrelevant because of the projection in the dome port? But maybe I misunderstood you completely... Thanks for that comment – I hadn't read any reviews yet and, based on Nauticam's recommendation of this lens for WACP-C, I assumed the optical performance was at least acceptable. By the way, I immediately cancelled my order for the 24-50 with my dealer this morning. 😉 Okay, I'll take note of that. 😁 I already read that the 140mm FE dome would be a very good choice for the 8-15/4, but I find it astonishing that it actually performs better than a superdome. I still have no choice using a superdome when it comes to split shots... To be on the save side: is it this one? Nauticam | 140mm fisheye port with removable shade (N120) | PanOceanPNauticam | 140mm fisheye port with removable shade (N120)...House of Underwater Photography | Nauticam | 140mm fisheye port with removable shade (N120 | authorized Nauticam Dealer in Germany | FREE SHIPPING within th I've already sold it. 🙄 I'm too much of a pixel peeper to be satisfied with the 14-35/4 lens and the 8.5" acrylic dome port combination. Even back then, with my 5D4, the EF 16-35/4 and a 230mm superdome, the corners didn't look that great, and behind the acrylic dome port it'l be even worse. Finally I think I'm now somewhat disillusioned about finding a (reasonably handy and affordable) system that will offer me significantly better corner performance. WACP-2 or FCP are out of reach, financially and in terms of weight.

The circlips are generic parts and easy to source, as are the orings. Circlips are also integral to holding the housing together. I don't know that the springs actually wear out at all, and they are not going to impact the integrity of the housing. I don't think they are something you should put any energy to replacing if you are DIYing the job. Now a proper service center is going to have all these parts on hand, so yes of course they should replace the springs, rubber tips, etc. It's what you are (over) paying for.

If you are going to the trouble, definitely replace the circlip as Dave suggests and also replace the springs. You need to lubricate everything as well, the o-rings need a little more grease than your main o-ring as I understand it as it is never replaced until the next service. There's not much in the way of guides on how to do this out there, though Ikelite has a video for their housings.

Either will work. Perhaps someone has one they can spare.

The insta360 ace pro 2 has underwater Mode but no WB lock.. and its only 8 bit The dji action 6 has scuba mode and QRS button that can be personalize to lock white balance underwater The Gopro 13 has gopro labs firmware and its possible to create permanent preset for WB lock, bitrate up to 200Mbps and new feature called DIVE=1 that remove underwater distortion, dont forget to Keep Denoise settings at low to avoid a soft video. The Gopro 13 also has 5.3k mode with resolution of 5312 x 2988, perfect for 16:9 or 9:16 for media viewing for later crop the video without any loss of quality. Optional With Gopro 11 it was necessary to use Wide Color gamut (wide=1) + oMLOGB=400 to get GP-log Profile lookalike. But on the Gopro 12/ 13 you can simply use Gp-Log + wide=1 for more details, and later a specific LUT to convert back to Rec709 during color correction. Basically Wide color gamut + oMLOGB=400 are able to push dynamic range and get better details in dark shadows, but is also recommended to apply NR01=1 (permanent disable denoise but more details) and later remove noise in post-production with Neat video 6 or davinci resolve studio (both paid options) ps: this hacks can be applied permanently using QR code once, Optional 2 Wide angle lens from AOI UWL-03 are great upgrade for any of the action cameras above. Ps: The insta360 or DJI can be an easy underwater actions cams for the untrained eye, or the average joe for viewing in small smartphone screen, especially if you do shallow dives with natural lighting their color sensors accuracy can be enough for some people, but has soon you pass certain depths you are limited by firmware, Gopro labs unlock that limit.

Zoom gear for Sigma AF10-20mm F4~5.6 EX DC HSM Nikonlens. Never used, gear is in pristine condition. Price: $100 The zoom gear can be used on following port configurations: a) use with extension ring 20 and 8.5' fisheye port b) use with extension ring 60 and 6' dome port c) use with extension ring 20 and 8.5' white balance port Dimension: 102 mm x 79 mm x 11 mm Weight: 77g / 6g Construction: Anodized aluminum alloy & Nylon

Used on 1 dive trip. This focus ring is in pristine condition. My husband switched cameras after this dive trip and it hasn't been used since. Product Specifications: Model: Nauticam C100IS-F Focus Gear SKU: #19523 Type: Focus Gear Compatible Lens: Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM Dimensions: DIA 102.0mm × 67.9mm Price: $100

I remove the circlips with a chopstick. Just push it off the shaft. I recommend getting new clips and don't reuse the old ones. They can bend and deform when removed and might not hold as securely upon reuse.

I have just a hard button and a knob with no levers involved. Let's see if I dare 🤪

Did you see/experience any improvement in the focus department?

I am changing my mind, and thinking about a trip there (although probably liveaboard based) - does anyone remember how strict the local domestic airline (maldivian) was with carry on luggage? There are on the website strict carryon restrictions (5kg) ..

Hi, definitely no rocket science. If you have a little knowledge in mechanics, be a DIY & have the right tools it shouldn`t be a problem. Just be organized if you dismantle all buttons/wheels/levers at same time, so you know they are all on the right position when you reassemble. I did this on different housing brands (Patima C7070, Hugy D300, Sealux flash housing Nikon SB800, Seacam housing D800, Nauticam housing D850) I haved used and all worked fine after reassemble. SIngle buttons and wheels are never a problem. Just be careful with levers. Some brands are easy and they always in the right position as they mechanical fit only in one position. Some brands you can. f.e. move the levers on the shaft. So it`s always a good idea to mark the position with a pen before dismantling. Will save you a lot of time when you reassemble. Photos also help a lot. Br Markus

Well you already own the RF14-35 and a 8.5inch dome?!? Search no further! Just combine this excellent underwater lens with your dome (superdome had 9inch). Also the lightweight acrylic dome will be much more rewarding for split shots. Looks like you have everything you need right in front of you. Just get a zoom gear for the 14-35 and try to measure down the the perfect extension Ring with dome data and entrance pupil position on optical bench hub.

Hi, I updated it, everything is working fine for me, did a lot of macro (not underwater) ...

True, I second this! The very bad MFD of the 24-50 lens makes it also a pain in the .. underwater. When you are used to be able to focus right up onto the dome this becomes a real downer, as you cannot get really close without plugging diopters into the system. Generally the WWL and WAPC are highly overrated and will not give you better optical performance than your Canon EF 8-15mm fisheye, even when combined with 1.4x or 2.0x teleconverters. You already own the best for super wide. Your dome choice should be taken very carefully so. Closely checking my files from 2 years diving with this rig I now find that my shots with the compact 140 fisheye dome are better that those with a superdome 9inch sized dome. You really need a full sphere for this. It might be worthwhile to get an adapter for your old Seacam Fisheye dome, if you own one. Having said all the above. I shoot Canon RF and instead of Nauticam, I use a Marelux housing with which I am very pleased. I think it‘s the better Nauticam with some improvements in the small details.

FOR SALE – Sony A7R III Setup - Perfect Condition! I am selling the following items, all in perfect working and cosmetic condition: Isotta Housing for Sony Alpha A7 III & A7R III - Price: €2,200 + manual trigger and moisture/leak sensor Sony A7R III A - Price: €1,300 Sony FE 28mm f/2 + Sony Fisheye Converter - Price: €300 Nauticam WWL-1 - Price: €950 + float collar, hard lens cap, and neoprene lens cap Sony FE 28–60mm f/4–5.6 + focus ring Included as a gift with any of the above purchases All items are well cared for and in excellent condition. Bundle deals possible—make an offer! More photos available on request. Any questions, just ask. Happy to ship internationally.