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Is AI upscaling actually your images though? I tend to believe it's not.

Certainly seems to produce some nice pics. Regarding extension at 7mm with the 190° field, the lens would need to move forward to avoid vignetting quite likely. Reading the various review articles they mention that a full field is achieved at 13mm (the 8-15 achieves this at 15mm) and one claims it zooms in a little tighter after this. If this is the case it may be why there was no vignetting. It would be interesting to compare the field between the 8-15 and the 7-14mm. If the focal lengths are correct the 7-14 should have a slightly wider field, but this assume they have the same projection type.

Since it seems that it can fire when connected to the working strobe via a fiber optic, I would suggest that the port on the dodgy strobe could be dirty either on the inside or outside since a relatively weak trigger flash will not fire it but a relatively strong strobe flash does fire it through (presumably ) the same fiber. Bill

You might be surprised how good AI upscaling is. At our booth in the Long Beach scuba show for Southern California Underwater Photo societies, we had 16 x 20 prints from all manners of camera ranging from Z9/R5 to TG6 to iPhone. Even the lowest native resolution devices could make nice prints. Bill

Hi @umiami05 Welcome to the community and it's great to see you back doing what you love. Look forward to seeing your journey. Maria www.oceanvisionsphotography.co.uk

To get some real-world experience, I rented the new 7-14mm fisheye over the weekend to try it. For reference, I have and love my 8-15mm EF fisheye and so my question is whether it is worth it to upgrade to the new RF version. Like my EF one – I taped it at 14mm for the whole dive, used my Marelux 140mm dome on a Canon R5. Lighting was two Inon z330s with stock diffuser. TL DR – A great lens – works great underwater and if I didn’t already own the 8-15, I would definitely get it. I’m not sure I will buy one… but may. Long version: I had no issues or challenges using this lens. It is.. maybe 5mm shorter when on the body compared to the 8-15 so I just ended up using the 30mm extension that I do for the EF version. Marelux and Nauticam space their housings differently…so a nauticam user may want to go to do something different...? I didn’t find any sort of weird problems with it being 14 instead of 15 in the dome, I did not remove the dome shade and it seemed like I could maybe zoom out to 13 without getting any vignetting on the full frame sensor… but I didn’t try (since I taped it and there isn’t a zoom gear for it anyway…yet). For this dive I turned off all non-essential stabilization (still IBIS) so had zero crop on the full frame sensor. I took it to the Channel Islands, CA and vis was great (for the channel islands) but there was still a lot of particulate in the water. I shot between F/8 and F/20 but kept it mostly at my sweet spot of f/13 and F/16 – which is how I find the EF one to be a nice balance of ISO, Shutter Speed and strobe output. As always, I find the biggest challenge with either of the lenses is to evenly light the frame without getting lit backscatter on the edges. I've selected (mostly) uncropped images for this post as I think it is most telling, but my favorite images from the day have some mild cropping done. These two images are uncropped at at f/13: I found the lens incredibly detailed with good color. At F/16ish the only bit of the frame that wasn’t sharp was the absolute most extreme corners and even those were pleasing to me. (here is a cropped one for color:) Here are a few other non-cropped: This one at f/18 and here is one at f/16 - I find this one particularly revealing on how sharp the lens is behind the 140mm dome: I returned the lens today and I'm left with a fondness for the lens and think it is the absolute right choice for anyone that doesn't already own the 8-15. I know many extend or use the EF on the crop body and that remains a barrier for the RF. Having done a lot of dives with the 8-15 and only 3 with this one - my gut feeling is that the RF lens is sharper and the corners look better than the EF. I do not think that either of those are sufficient to outweigh composition and lighting, etc. so "better" should be taken with a grain of salt. I don't think I will buy it, but haven't decided. I also want to extend my thanks for everyone who does real lens and lighting testing for this site! So helpful and soo much work to try and make things quantitative. This was just me diving for a day. Hope it helps your purchasing decisions!

Good grief, hope that Berkley is okay. Get well soon Berkley! Maria

I saw this at the recent UK Go Diving Show on the Underwater Visions stand run by Alex Tattersall. It looked absolutely gorgeous and as always with Nauticam Housings, super sleek. It is made from hard-anodized aluminium alloy with a depth rating of 150 metres and as stand with all of their housings, has beautiful easy-to-use controls including a rotary housing lock. Each lens has a 190 degree angle of view and is made up of three elements in two groups. These are coated with anti-reflection material. However, to be able to use it, the outer lenses of the X5 need to be removed. Don't worry, there is a tool included with the housing. For more details visit Nauticam's website here: https://www.nauticam.com/products/nauticam-housing-for-insta360-x5 Has anyone tried one? #nauticam #underwatervisions

The Solitude Lembeh is really good. we spent 10 days... only one word "PERFECT" 1 guide for 2 divers it is the rule

I can offer another recommendation for NAD Lembeh. I've stayed several times over the years and they run a great operation. I think they currently advertise a 2:1 diver to guide ratio, whereas a lot of Lembeh resorts are 4:1. They also have a nice camera room.

hopefully minor wounds - filming large shoals of grouper with feeding sharks at dusk has got to be high risk

what was it like in October?

Give Peter Mooney a call at Scubapix, he's the Aussie distributor.

The fact that the bad strobe can be triggered with a different source tends to indicate it has having problems detecting the pulse from your trigger. You can try running a fibre cable from your good strobe to the the dodgy one. Plug the cable into the side socket on the good strobe and run it to the dodgy one in the normal fibre port. See page e-22 of the manual for how to. The dodgy strobe should be the one on the LHS of the diagram. Here's an e-link to the manual if you need it: https://www.seaandsea.jp/support/download/manual/manual_en_03123_ys-d3_lightning.pdf Now check if it triggers. If it does check the exposure from each strobe and make sure the dodgy strobe changes brightness as you change the power on it. If it does, this is your solution, possibly not ideal but should sort you out at least till you come back and can try to get to the bottom of it. It might be that you fibre cables are marginal for this strobe. You could try borrowing another cable to test if things improve with it or not. Fibre optic problems are relatively common and not all cables are created equal and a bad cable can be the difference between triggering or not (yes even though the other strobe is happily firing). What brand cables are you using? If it doesn't trigger using the method above, nothing will trigger the strobe as you are using the main flash to trigger the other strobe. Regarding whether the dodgy strobe is fried, never assume when troubleshooting, test your assumptions with tests that can determine what is going on.

Hi umiami05! A warm welcome to Waterpixels. Great to have you with us and congrats on getting the kids to certification age! Life begins again eh? 😝

Hello, Until this morning both of my strobes (YS-D3 lightning mkii) were firing fine. Today one of the strobes has stopped firing, it powers on, charges up etc - everything seems ok but my shutter/trigger isn't triggering the flash. My attempts: I've swapped cables with the working strobe and both fibre optics fire the working strobe. I've swapped batteries and same as above. So the working strobe can be fired with both fibre optic ports on the housing, both fibre optic cables and both sets of batteries. I can trigger the dodgy strobe with my phone's flash into the port and I can trigger it by running a fibre optic between the 2 strobes. Any ideas what could be causing the strobe not to fire normally? It doesn't seem to be an issue with the trigger (S-turtle 2 manual trigger) the cables, the ports or the batteries. I did find that when I'd turn it off for a few minutes and turn it back on it'd instantly turn red as if it was ready to fire, but with no red flashing light/recycle sound. I don't shoot bursts on high power or anything too intensive for the strobes so it's unlikely that it's fried I'm in Raja Ampat for the next few weeks so hopefully can find a solution to get both working again! Sony + nauticam housing + turtle manual trigger

Hello, I’ve been a diver for almost 30 years and done underwater photography nearly as long. I took a break from diving since raising our kids and moving away from California, but as my kids are nearing certification age I’m getting back into the hobby. Currently upgrading gear to the new mirrorless systems and planning a handful of trips over the next year or so. Looking forward to learning from the community!

Sorry, if not clear, the M27 port appears to be Bayonet Only. I want to keep using the nauticam dual Flip I recently acquired with the MFO-3 and SMC-3. I like how it works with my existing video system. I've become greedy and want to shoot video and take photos on same dive. (Will include strobes) I own a S1R2 and its a great camera. I was hoping there might be other Panasonic users on here given the S series cameras are very similar. Will check with a dealer.

Description: Selling a complete, turn-key Micro Four Thirds underwater system. I am moving to an OM-1 setup for my upcoming trips, so this meticulously maintained rig needs a new home. This is the Backscatter Octo Edition which includes the integrated LED flash trigger and vacuum system. The Highlight: The AOI UH-EM10IV Octo Housing was completely replaced by Backscatter in August 2025. It has seen very few dives since and is essentially in new condition. It will ship in its original factory packaging with all new-in-box accessories. Package Includes: Camera: Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark IV (Silver/Black) Shutter Count: 9,881 (Low mileage) Condition: Excellent; pristine sensor; firmware updated to v1.1. Lens: Olympus M.Zuiko 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 EZ (Pancake Electronic Zoom). Port & Gear: Includes the AOI FLP-06 Flat Port and the dedicated zoom gear for full focal control. Power: 3x Batteries (2 OEM Olympus, 1 aftermarket) + Dual USB Charger. Safety: Integrated Vacuum & Moisture alarm (Pump included). Extras: JJC padded protective pouch and original body/lens caps. Price & Shipping: $1,275 USD Price includes PayPal Goods & Services fees. Includes fully insured shipping (Signature Required) within the CONUS. International shipping available at buyer's actual cost. Location: San Antonio, TX (Local pickup welcome).

This offer is being closed to include a lens with the final bundle.

Nice @Gmsalterego Look forward to seeing your footage with it. Have fun :) Maria

Looking for a Zen 170mm dome port for Nauticam N120. May also consider Nauticam 180mm port. Clean glass required. Thank you, Brandon brandoncole(at)msn(dot)com

Hi Johan. In May my daughter and I will be flying to Jakarta and then on to Kalimantan for a dive trip. I am excited for her as this will be her first diving experience overseas, and arguably in one of the best areas! After the diving, I am hoping to take a two-night houseboat tour in Tanjung National Park to see and photograph wildlife. I'm doing this one on my own. If you have any insights, plesae share, and thank you. Welcome to the forum, by the way!

Nice to hear--we have a few days booked with Mr. Corpuz next month.

Description: Moving to an OM-1 system for my upcoming trips to Bonaire and the Sea of Cortez, so I am parting with this fantastic, compact mirrorless rig. This is the Backscatter Limited Edition Octo version with the integrated LED flash trigger and vacuum system. The Standout Detail: The AOI UH-EM10IV Octo Housing was completely replaced by Backscatter in August 2025. It has seen very few dives since and is essentially in new condition with fresh seals and perfect electronics. Package Includes: Camera: Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark IV (Silver/Black) Shutter Count: 9,881. Condition: Excellent. Sensor is pristine; latest Firmware v1.1. Port: AOI FLP-06 Flat Port (for 14-42mm EZ). Glass is flawless. Accessories: * 3x Batteries (2 OEM Olympus, 1 Powerextra) - all holding full charge. AOI Vacuum Pump & 2x Spare O-rings. Dual Battery Charger & CB-USB12 cable. JJC Padded Pouch. Price: $1,150 USD Includes shipping within CONUS and PayPal Goods & Services fees. Location: San Antonio, TX (Available for local pickup as well).