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You can certainly travel with a small tube of penetrating oil, and having been in some very remote locations (where fresh water was in short supply) I now will communicate with the dive resort or homestay ahead of the time to ask if they can order (or store) an extra 5 gallon (or 18.9 liter) jug of water just for my use. I always offer to pay for this... In Sulawesi the water will cost about $2 USD, and a new jug (if they charge you for it) will be $6 USD. I have offered resorts or home stays $20 USD to have a jug just for my use (for camera gear) - I haven't had a problem getting this (although sometimes I've had to wait a day or two to get it after arriving). There are several collapsable rinse buckets you can get (that can double as containers for your camera rig in small boats). No issues traveling with one of these.

sorry, i didnt format my reply well! everything after 'phenomenal little setup' was to Dave

Thank you so much.

A good substitute for Kroil is a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone. I have also used alcohol in place of acetone with moderate success.

@MatthewSullivan I own a 230mm Zen dome at present. I do NOT own any wide angle Nauticam wet lenses, nor the WACP. Ideally I'd like to buy the least amount of gear switching from D850 to Z8.

I take care of that tomorrow and send some photos.

Actually, I want them to fit. Any way to get a measurement from pin to pin before I purchase?

Our pins are threaded stainless Allen screws. If they don’t fit you can just backed them up.

Agree with Dave with regards to WWLC/24-50. phenomenal little setup. @Dave_Hicks WACP is an improvement vs wwlc but whether that improvement is worth the size vs cost...YMMV. Since you have WWL, the WACP-C wont (imo) be worthwhile. If you were going to do one, the WACP1 would be the more worthwhile upgrade

Amazing encounter, and awesome video. Thanks for sharing. I applaud how you can keep calm and breath normally during the entire video. Me, I already double my breathing rate if I see a blue ring octopus..🤦‍♂️ Ajay

Thanks. Another question, though. The MX double flip has detent pins that keep it from rotating on the port. Do you know if these will work with my AOI port? I currently have a Nauticam single flip holder and their detent pins do work on my port.

Yes it should fit and it does come with the mounting tool. The threaded part is built-in.

Hi Phil, I have a question about the MX double flip. How is it actually screwed onto the M67 threads of a flat port? Is there a tool that comes with it? I would be attaching it to an AOI FLP-02P port. Thanks.

Hi, this is my first post with a 3d print. I made a zoom gear for the Canon EF-S 18-55mm IS STM. Link bellow https://www.printables.com/model/1847405-seafrogs-zoom-gear-for-canon-ef-s-18-55mm-f35-56-i Just wanted to share this if someone happens to need it. I use it with the FL60 (port originally for EF-S 60mm Macro). It vignettes till 24mm and then hits the glass at 40mm. The gear has 76 teeth, which is diffetent from the 75 I have seen on a different SeaFrogs gear on this forum before, but it does work. (I dont have an official gear for reference so I just guessed the parameters) I know that there is a post with tested prints. Is only me printing it ok or is there some kind of validaton to get in?

The WWL-C/ Z24-50 is demonstrably better than the 16-35 solutions. Sharper and a much bigger range as well. I don't have the WACP setups to try but I have a hard time finding validation that they are superior to the WWL-C. I might consider the more reasonably sized WACP-C as a dry solution vs wet.

The wet wide lenses are not rectilinear. A great choice is the Laowa AF 12mm F/2.8-F/22 lite Zero-D for Nikon Z. This lens is 122 degrees and has a minimum focus distance of just 14cm, so it can be used in a 180mm dome port. Great lens for splits, accepts 72mm filters.

As per the title, I'm interested in a discussion about the options for rectilinear WA on the Nikon mirrorless platform. I'm moving from Nikon D850 where I had been shooting 16-35/4 Nikon with the S&S correction filter behind a 230mm Zen glass dome. I have been a bit dissatisfied with the 16-35/4 optics - yes I've gotten my shots, but they feel "lacking". I already own the 230mm Zen dome and am willing to haul it on trips. I'm covered when it comes to FE = RS13 conversion headed for re-conversion to Sony E with a metadapt E to Z. It appears that there are several options for Nikon mirrorless when it comes to rectilinear... - Keep F lens situation as is - BUT, optics have always been a bit "soft" - even in the middle of the image - 24-50 Z lens and WWL-C - BUT, there are image "compromises" when trying to manipulate physics - 16-30 Z lens and Zen 230mm Dome - BUT, not clear what extension is needed = I've found answers stating: 40,45,50,and 55mm extensions!!! - 24-70 Z lens and WACP - BUT, anyone want to fund me for the cost of the WACP2???!!! AND, while it seems that 230mm possible, the 180mm is "preferred" (per asterisk on the N120 Z Nauticam port chart) - and extension situation also potentially "different" than port chart as Zen dome vs Nauticam... I'd love to hear some REAL WORLD EXPERIENCE comparing these options: "I get great pics with the WWL-C" isn't the same as "I've shot both and I like X over Y for these reasons"...

Emirates has consistently weighed my carry-on plus personal bag and enforced the weight limit of 7kg total for both. I had to move stuff to my large check bag, put items in my jacket pockets or check my carry-on roller and just carry on my personal bag. My personal bag is a ThinkTank Airport essentials backpack. It is sized to fit under the seat. Many of the small planes used for remote locations cannot fit roller bags or larger bags in the overhead compartments. You will be forced to check the bag at check-in counter or the gate. I put camera, lenses, laptop and anything delicate in the personal sized backpack. I do like bags designed for camera protection. In the past I have use protective wraps in regular luggage only to find my gear unwrapped and an inspection note in my bag. I did have light reflectors bent out of their round shape as a result.

Did he say he used an action cam to record the test ? Does an action cam auto adjust exposure to make the overall scene look the way it wants ? I don't doubt the Keldan had the most even and powerful output, but if the camera used to record the test is auto adjusting, the real differences btw the lights will be hard to see.

Aloha and welcome @JMC22

“Eric Cheng, who ran Wetpixel through its glory years, recently downloaded the entire site and being a software whizz, set about creating an extensive Wetpixel Wiki to chart the history of Wetpixel and the first 20 years of digital underwater photography.” The History of UW Photography

The weight is the limit. 7 or 8 kgs is now the norm on almost all economy flights. They might not check it at check-in, but quite often, they will. It doesn’t matter if you look ”suspicious” or not. So my advice for anyone traveling with UW camera gear a few times a year: develop a different strategy that does not depend on luck and instead involve checking most things and only carry on essentials to at least be able to shoot something in a lost case scenario.

Divevolk SL50 (5000 Lumen) Divevolk SL120 (12000 Lumen) KELDAN 8XR Ambient (18000 Lumen) Sea Frogs SF100 (10000 Lumen) The Lumen number tells you how much lighting power a specific underwater video light can output at its maximum power level. This is oftentimes considered by divers to be one of the most important figures when deciding for an underwater video light. This video show you what the actual difference in maximum output power looks like between a 5000 Lumen, a 10000 Lumen, a 12000 Lumen and a 18000 Lumen underwater video light. The test was conducted in a controlled environment (indoor pool) with constant ambient lighting. This is not a scientific test, by any means, but a demonstration of how much of a difference is present between those currently quite popular maximum output levels (=Lumen).