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The Atom flash with the snoot looks very good ... I have good experience with using MF-2 with OS-1. In the "snoot mode" the MF-2 has enough power for the way I make macro photos (not enough power, however, when I use MF-2 without snoot). The only drawback of the MF-2/OS-1 combo I see is the lack of a red aiming light (maybe the new MF-3 has red light?), since some critters get scared by the white illumination when adjusting the frame... I am now thinking to acquire a snoot for my HF-1s ("Bazooka" as Adventurer calls it 😄). Alternatively an additional Atom flash with snoot, both for snooting and as a spare flash...

$1100 for the housing plus $165 for the periscope stick (Ø37x350 Carbon Fibre Aluminium Float Stick (Buoyancy 190g)) Well cheaper abroad obviously.

waso, I am attaching a couple of images, no crop, no edit, so you can look pixel peep if you desire, of course there are different f/stop depth of field varies and images resized to enable upload here, not sure if that affects how you can see the quality of the lens performance.

Perfect solution for over under shots! Is it April?

I have an Olympus 60mm and do mostly fish portraits. One issue I have is focus hunting. Does anyone have experience using the MFO-1 or MFO-3 with these lens combinations and did it help with faster focusing?

You may not like the fisheye perspective for wrecks, that is down to taste. A factor to consider is that behind a dome port you'll have to stop down to get decent sharpness in the corners. There is plenty written by far more intelligent people than I am about why.

Also it seems the optics reduce the depth of field, noticeable in CFWA work, there was a thread on it a while back in the initial flurry after it was introduced.

Well, I would suggest that you base your selection on the availability of lenses and ability to easily add more lenses as time goes by without requiring a camera system change and the consequent new housing. UW is quite different to land based photography. using wide angle lenses up close to reduce water between you and the subject. I tried for the first year or two to apply some land based techniques and found they didn't work so well. Placing a lens in a dome port doesn't make it just like on land , it's necessary to stop down to deal with the aberrations caused by dome port optics, most people shoot around f11-13 for wide angle behind a dome port, even fisheyes are generally stopped down. Some of the wetoptics can be opened up a bit more. Typically a flexible solution involves a zoom lens, you can swim right up to a coral reef, but if you try doing the same thing to a shark or a tuna it will swim away. SO being able to zoom from a static subject to something with some more reach is very handy. By more reach it's something in the range of a 30mm equivalent lens on full frame. It's still significantly more reach than a fisheye. Wide apertures are used in macro work, where you can actually create some good bokeh, in wide angle work it can create some rather ugly out of focus things in the corners. Here is an example of photo taken 17mm and f8 in a small dome, note the lower left corner: https://uwaterphoto.com/?p=839 For fish portraits a longer zoom or a short macro lens tend to be good options. Again I'd suggest rather than gravitating to a camera body go ahead and see what you would need for macro, mid range and wide in a couple of different systems, then see how much it will cost you and the weight and size. I don't know if you plan to travel for diving but a compact system makes traveling a lot easier.

I need to read more on this. Both the Tokina and the Canon 8-15mm seem to be favourites. I'll dig deeper in the forums :)

You just have to dive at "periscope depth" and you can shoot on and under the surface simultaneously....

I've got a Tokina fisheye for use with my Nikon DX systems. I never developed a fondness for it because I wasn't impressed with the field of view curvature, but that's just me. I did pick-up a Nikkor 8-15mm fisheye to use with my Nikon FX system. I think it will work better for me with a small dome for close focus wide-angle. If you get a good housing, zoom control shouldn't be an issue. With the Tokina fisheye, a lot of photographers use it with a teleconverter to increase the versatility of the lens. -Tinman

It's also flippin' huge.

Yes, I'm leaning heavily towards the Sony ecosystem. I spent quite a lot of my sofa-time (the last couple of weeks of bad weather - and under the weather - around here) reading about options. Thanks for he tips on focal lengths. I have to check about the Tokina too, as mentioned by Lewis88. Depending on the housing, it seems zoom control is not always possible....

yup, better as in, better as achieving out of focus outside of focus plane with large apertures.

Small sensor size is one of the drawbacks of the TG Series. This particular drawback is one of the reasons that some upgrade to other cameras as their skills develop. When TG users ask me how they can get better images from their cameras, I usually start with talking about the importance of lighting equipment. I've worked with some underwater photographers who basically decided they were serious enough about underwater photography to just invest in professional level equipment from the start. These folks had an "I want it all" mindset and have done well. Starting with a point & shoot type camera would've been a waste of time and money for them. Why spend money on a system that's not going to take you where you want to go? It's hard to beat the flexibility that a zoom lens gives you for wide-angle underwater imaging. My go-to lens when I was doing a book project a few years ago was my Nikkor 10-24mm zoom. This lens even worked well to capture close focus wide-angle shots of sea horses. Since making a jump to a full frame camera system, my Nikkor 17-35mm is my most commonly used lens. The only fixed focal length lenses I use underwater are my Nikkor 105mm and 60mm macro lenses. For what it's worth, the 60mm is quite good for capturing images of small to medium sized skittish fish. Your posts and commentary seem to indicate willingness to jump in the proverbial 'deep end of the pool' with a Sony system. If that's where you're at, start assembling a system and jump in! (LOL) -Tinman

The Marelux soft snoot has some cool features but I was put off by the price of the 2.0. Also, the aiming light at 500 lumens could be an issue. I was recently trying to use the Retra LSD in some shallow water with a lot of particulate during the day and the 450 lumen aiming light was very hard to see. The mini version of their snoot won't work with he S220, as I understand it.

I just sent a DM

Just add strobes and WATER to what you already have…. It‘s the water that will make your pictures better, not the rig. I spend 50 weeks per year on eBay etc. and sadly only 1-2 weeks diving. If it were the other way round, I might have won a couple of awards without changing my rig.

Hello,If you are interested in selling separately, I'm interested in the dome port.

Larger sensors actually have a smaller depth of fields

I am interested in buying a used Panasonic 8mm fisheye m43 lens and either an AOI DLP-05 or DLP-06 dome port. If you have any of these available, please let me know here or via [email protected].

@bghazzal You can definitely get pretty good deals on the 90 macro. I was all set to pull the trigger on the 100 macro but life interfered. Have you used the dual flip? I think they're ungainly. We keep trying to streamline things but our gear isn't cooperating.

You are referring to Tiger Beach: I'm a happy user of the WACP-C with 28-60 on Sony A7 IV.

Sure, will do this evening after home from office.

The Zeiss 50mm lens is very usable on the newer A6xxx bodies. It's almost instant on my A6100. You also can adapt the Tokina 10-17mm fisheye APS-C lens, so you're not locked to a FF fisheye.