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Thanks for your statement. Would you mind showing some images with crops from the corners?

Is it possible to get 100% crops from the corners (as I posted with my images above)? It would probably be interesting not only for me.

I suggest planning for 2 stages. 1 Put your TG6 in a housing. The Olympus housing is ok, and others are available. Add a strobe (or video light if video is your thing). Select the strobe and arm so they will be useful in stage 2. You could start with 1 strobe and move on to 2 strobes, or if you can get a good used deal on a matched pair of strobes get the pair. Practice your photography for what the TG6 is best for - macro and fish portraits. Or you could add a wide angle wet lens if you are looking ahead to stage 2 and are thinking of a wet lens system. The concept is that when you move on to a bigger camera/housing, everything except the housing for the TG6 will be re-used. You can then keep the TG6+housing as a back up. Get a year of practice in with this. You may find it suits you as-is, or you may continue to stage 2. 2 Later move on to an APSc or M4/3 or full frame as others are discussing.

Thank you all for your kind words! As some of you have said, yes it is Condor Banks and another, older spot (I don't know the name, have to ask my buddies). We did four dives in total (2x2days). The vis. was quite good, around 25m maybe. The temp. was good, around 21/22°C, in a two piece 5mm wet suit with a hoodie and gloves (required!) no problem. The depth varied, but was limited to 15m due to the line we were clipped on. @Davide DB I tried to limit the slow motion, but I simply love the slow shots of sharks crusing by haha Yes, I shot in N-Raw, 8K60fps ind N-Log. The files were huge, but color grading was a breeze. I did a manual WB at around 10 meters, but kept it there, because of the constant vertical change in position. The lights are 4XR Ambient lights with an extra 6m Ambient filter. No filter on the lens. As some said, yeah the rules are strict. Bight colored fins or other heavy contrast equipment needs to stay on land. You must wear a hoodie and gloves for low contrast. Lights and strobes were no problem with us, they told us, that they can get nosier with that additional magnetic fields.

Thanks Craig - yes, I hope it will be ok. Even if I need to change the circuit, the housing remains a good deal. It's just a bit of a letdown. The A7SIII upgrade is really exciting, but still very much a work in progress. The plan is to set up a macro rig first, using the Sony 90mm with the MFO-3 and SMC-1 / AOI UCL-09 on the dual flip for a bit of flexibility. If the stars really align, it might be the new Sony 100mm instead, with the same configuration. The housing was really the biggest hurdle. Now it's the camera body, and I still need to decide whether to go Japanese-model for a very good deal, or international for English menus. I can deal with Japanese menus, but it'll make googling information more complicated and limit resale options (though this isn't super important as I plan on working with this camera for a while) One thing at a time. For now, I have a shiny new housing, albeit a silent and empty one, to cuddle, so I am pretty stoked 😁

Could Nauticam have introduced AI as an R&D aid? That picture gives me cold sweat....

Marelux released a port chart for Aquista 130 (https://www.marelux.co/pages/aquista120-port-chart) and it seems like it works with EF 16-35 F2.8 III L. Has any have a chance to try this setup? Would love to see how does this compare with EF 8-15 in term of image quality. As I understand, the Aquista 130 should have similar specification to WWL-1B. Do you think that such port configuration on Marelux housing would work for WWL-1B too?

Latest "reports" (more like rumors) from Shark Tank in Hulhumale are that there are no sharks anymore, only rays due to lots of disturbance from work and construction in the harbor. Will get back in a couple of months and give my impressions. I'm there anyway so might as well give it a try. I understand this dive, in case there are sharks, are quite different from the Fav tiger dive. Deeper and with lower visibility, so not really as suitable for shooting. Well, well...

Ben - I’m guessing it will all work out. The alarms are nice if they’re not a bother, but I’ve never had a problem with any Nauticam housings if you take care putting all the bits together. A7s III? I like it.

It must be a pleasure diving and while on the boat, handling this configuration 😁

I'm in Japan but haven't been yet so can't offer practical advice. i do know that strobes are not allowed for the hammerhead dives at Yonaguni, not sure if it's the same at Mikomoto, would need to look into footage. There's no mention of it on their Q&A, so probably ok. Speaking of which, watch Kirin's documercial on Mikomoto-hammers if you haven't already to get a feel for it: https://waterpixels.net/forums/topic/1881-documentary-on-mikomoto-hammers-mikomoto-japan/ A week sounds on the longuish side given that it's going on a packed boat in often rough seas to do short dives, might be a little intense. I doubt they organize actual macro diving on the peninsula as they're very much focused on drift dives around the islet, but they might have partner operations. Look into transport though, not really sure how access is. Mikomoto Hammers does mention this on their site: If the sea conditions are poor and we cannot make the dive at Mikomoto Island, is it possible to dive at another site? Yes, it is possible to dive at another site if you make a request to do so. However, where we choose to dive will depend on the sea conditions on that day. So, for example, if the west wind is too strong, we will dive on the east side of the peninsula. cheers

Thanks - here are some pics:

Thanks everyone. I'll look into it, thanks Chris - the circuit looks simple enough but I lack experience. I'm not 100% sure the vaccum circuit works as I thought the lens cap had an o-ring but it doesn't, so I can't test it as I don't have a port yet or easy access to one here unfortunately. It turns on fine and moisture does cause the LED to go from blue to red. Yes, I do have my doubts as I always dive with a hood but would rather have it working if I can. I did hear it in Thailand when I had an issue with the LX10, but didn't connect the dots strait away. Otherwise through testing on my LX10 I just realised the buzzer doesn't actually work when the battery is low - I go through batteries fast (I usually dive early morning, so set up the day before and sometimes open the housing the next day only) so was keeping them a bit after getting the alternating red/blue low battery indicator... Basically I was diving without a buzzer for a while on the LX10... 😅

Looks like Nauticam is back on the compact camera housing market. Saw this pop on my socials feed, nothing on Nauticam website tho.

I thought there was a thread about Mikomoto already, but couldnt find one. Anyway. Going to Japan early autumn and have set my sights on Mikomoto. Recommendation needed on operator, accommodation, ect. The whole lot. I know theres the occasional storm when diving is cancelled and im thinking for a week, but is that too much? Also do the operator offer for example macro diving at Izu if Mikomoto is stormed off? Or is this to be arranged on your own? Lens choices, most footage is from far away in the blue, so strobes can be left in hotel im sure? Sony full frame shooter, what are best options? Or just GoPro? Any help appreciated.

Hello, I shoot R5, for wide angle I chose the Canon Rf 24-50 with a WWL-C, it seems to have a sweet spot that is not so wide, the ability to close focus is a lot of fun, if was a very affordable option and travels well compared to WACP lenses. The ultimate would be Nauticam FCP, out of my budget, for now I use my very affordable set up and do not pixel peep.

I believe what is happening is the lens has a lot of uncorrected barrel distortion and relies on software correction. Barrel distortion stretches the corners out and the corrected image needs to be cropped after correction. So Canon designed it a bit wider than 24mm to accomodate the cropping and the end result is black corners in the uncorrected image. There may be some benefit in in shooting uncorrected and zooming in till the vignetting stops as you really mostly don't need the corrections UW, it's no different to shooting a fisheye. If you don't do the software correction to remove the barrel distortion the overall image quality can improve. Whether it's worth the trouble I don't know, you would have to manually pick the widest zoom setting you can live with on the uncorrected lens and it would be fiddly. I agree the lens is a compromise, it seems like there might be sample variation as well, some land reviews give it a poor rating and others say it is quite good including sites that do performance testing.

Don't get me wrong, people will happily use the Sea frogs housings and they'll keep your camera dry and take decent photos, but they are somewhat limiting. Regarding strobes there are a great many on the market at the moment. The INON strobe, the S220 is a solid little strobe, but a little lacking in power, it will certainly work well getting a compact underwater and is I think fine for a m43 rig. There are a great many strobes available on the market today to pick from. On the Sony A6400, again I would encourage you to to look at the whole picture before jumping onto a camera body. With Sony APS-c and to a lesser extent other APS-C systems, the big manufacturers only make 90 or 100mm macro lenses. Canon and Nikon used to have 60 mm lenses, but are discontinued (at least the Canon is) . The long lenses on APS_C due to the crop factor are IMO too long for UW and force you to back up too far if shooting medium sized macro subjects. This means too much water between you and subject, strobes will struggle as strobe range UW is very limited and much greater chance of backscatter from the strobes. Sony has Zeiss 50mm macro, but the AF is quite slow except on certain bodies and can hunt a bit. On Sony you would be adapting a full frame fisheye for wide angle work if that's the way you wanted to go, though the 16-50 kit lens and WWL seems a good option if that is the way you wanted to go. I would suggest pricing out some options and working out which lenses you would use with which body before jumping on a camera body. Go into the exercise with your eyes wide open rather than discovering issues once you have invested into a system. On macro lenses again here is a pic of an Olympus 60mm macro side by side with a Canon EF100mm macro - massive difference in size and the ports have to cover this so also a difference in weight and size an $$. Canon vs olympus macro I would also suggest considering second hand rigs. Housings really don't hold their value and some bargains can be picked up if you consider using an older model.

As others have pointed out, there are lots of options if you want to upgrade from an Olympus TG Series Camera. I've worked with quite a few divers who use cameras from the TG Series and they do just fine. I just presented a photography contest award to a TG-6 user. This particular entrant's entry was a runner-up for the top award in the contest. Her image was remarkable. There are some downsides to the TG Series. If you're wanting to get really serious about underwater photography, you'll find a camera that will allow you to shoot in manual mode may help you. One particular photographer contacted me to request help with assembling a Nauticam/Nikon D850 system. She is seriously into macro photography and had become frustrated with the limitations associated with her TG Series camera. An Indonesian guide recommended that she ditch the TG and get a Nikon D850 system. Sure, her Nauticam/D850 system is lots bigger than her old TG Series, but it's also lots more versatile. Upgrading camera systems has dramatically impacted the quality of her images. Lots of options to upgrade from a TG Series are available from Canon, Nikon, Sony, Panasonic and Olympus. One of the issues you need to consider involves what you are planning to do with your images. -Tinman

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Buzzer has saved me twice, once with a 5/10 hood. If you can post a picture close up of the battery side we might see something. I've had the battery tab not making contact before and resoldered it to get it working again.

Divervision should hopefully be able to ship to you in France as well. They're a great vendor and I've used them multiple times. Regarding S&S reliability, I can only personally say I've had no issues over years with their strobes over multiple generations (YS-25, YS-110a, and YS-D3). My dad has also dove a pair of YS-D2j's for years without issues. But others will likely tell you they're nothing but problems. 🤷‍♂️

Hi @KPV and @Hadley England, if you want help, you need to let us know the mm distance measurement of your Canon R8 lens bayonet flange to Seafrogs housing port bayonet flange. In other words, how many millimeters sits the camera inside the housing?

I think you're looking at this a bit backwards. For those moving to the Sony A7 series, you move to FF. It's not that you "need" FF. And... there are many (many) u/w amateur photographers using a Nikon D850. I still contend one of the best pairings for blackwater dives is a D850 and the Nikon 60mm lens. This is not a "pro" (only) set up, just a very solid set up to get good images while diving blackwater.