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Yes, I've had the strobes for a few weeks now, but I've only been able to do one test a few days ago in the pool. In a week, I'll be diving in the North Sea for a few days and will then have more information. However, the dives will certainly take place in very poor visibility and I obviously won't be able to test the actual flash power then (as I would in backlighting and clear water in a coral reef).

Thanks. Bit more shocked than I thought we would be - but ok. Having survived (!), the gear loss is utterly depressing. I'm going to need some expert advice from you guys on what direction to go next. Slowly, slowly.....

I am happy Canon made this lens. 20mm is the sweet spot before rectilinear lenses start looking odd. I hope the lens design pops up on optical bench soon, so we can have a closer look.

Hi everyone, I'm an owner of the R5C which I really like. I'm looking to change for 2nd camera (BMPCC6k) for this last canon cinema camera. Does anyone did use it underwater and as any review about it ? Thank you

Having done a few more snaps in the field and tightly comparing the sharpness of my lens line-up, I must conclude: Newer RF lenses are more razor (sharp) than older EF lenses. This basically confirms also various land based tests I churned through on the internet. Surprisingly my RF 24-105 STM is the sharpest lens in my lineup and it outperforms the EF 8-15 fisheye in overall IQ sharpness on average. I even think the RF 24-105 is sharper than the Canon RF 100 mm macro behind a flat port on many occasions. Also I am currently under the impression that the EF 8-15 combined with the Kenko 2.0x PRO TC performs better than with the RF 2.0x comlite adapter.

@TimG my condolences! What a nightmare. I hope you are not too traumatized by the experience and the gear loss aftermath.

So you made the jump to new strobes @waso … were you already able to take them out for a test drive ? … interested to see your first results with them soon.

Similar complaints from my better half here, too. She usually says something like: „Oh nooo, are you going to watch Shrek again,… ?“ before she leaves the room. 😅 🥴

After using several GoPros for many years, I decided to switch to the Osmo Action 5 last year following extensive research, and I’ve never regretted it. Due to its smaller sensor, the GoPro has a significant drawback, especially in low-light conditions like those found underwater. Footage shot at greater depths and in caves/caverns/overhangs is heavily noisy, whereas the Osmo Action offers clear advantages in these situations.

Update: 1 sold 1 ball mount left $25

There was another semi-interesting release from Laowa same time, the 35mm macro AF lens. But maybe its bit too wide to replace 100mm+MFO-3? But looking forward to seeing more of these manufacturers rolling out AF lenses. Definately waiting on someone to test the fisheye uw.

Basically title says it all. Action cam will be stuck on top of A1ii, main purpose is to film "everything" in the blue like hammers ect 20-ish meters away, scenery in Indonesia, ect. Main is cost effectiveness, so camera and "original" housing from the camera maker. Is wideangle wetlens needed? Or does the additional price justify it for my described use? The price range and what ChatGPT is suggesting, are all the obvious suspects, GoPro 13 black, Insta360 Ace Pro 2 and DJI Osmo Action 5 Pro. And Inon UFL-G140 ZD. The prices of this setup is pretty much what im willing to do splash out. Only thing is which one.

Good plan on the backups, Robert. One other fly in the disaster ointment I’ve found. I have a UK SIM in my phone. My provider will only mail out a physical SIM to my UK contact address. Won’t email out an eSIM nor mail overseas. A local SIM has restored some functions but many remain inaccessible till I get that UK one. I’ve been on liveaboards where the CD has collected all passports and kept them in a dry bag with a Satphone at the entrance to the salon. Very wise move. We all had go-bags but they were in our cabins. One or two were able to grab these but the majority couldn’t.

Thanks. I suspect banjar would know very well about this already...as in no way villagers can keep a haul this big a secret nor Banjar would not ask for a cut ;/ Sadly radio silence so far in there. But will see if I can somehow get through to them indeed, who knows. Yeah, Segara, locals fishing on the shore and throwing lines good 50m+ onto the dive site.

You could still shoot UL&M email about it. If i understood correctly from UWPShow, he is open to new suggestions ect. But tbh, i dont know what enabling HSS/rear requires from circuitry. Housing Aquatica->Nauticam should be no problem (unless Aquatica has like heaps of more space inside housing).

Thanks for the feedback. +1 for Turtle. The UL&M trigger doesn't support HSS or Rear Curtain either and it does not seem to have a Nikon/Nauticam option, only Aquatica. Strange.

TRT is a solid piece of kit, i have used the Smart 3 for Sony 6+ months now. I was going back and forth between TRT and UW-Technics and chose TRT due to the slick looks and easy firmware updates. Representatives of both triggers are somewhat active here on waterpixels, so you can ask any questions from them. Maybe the Underwater Light & Magic trigger could be for you? Its full manual and cheap, but i dont know about HSS/Rear curtain. But im sure he will hook you up if its possible, seems like a fellow tinkerer like yourself ;)

Ouch - really sorry to hear that man, really sad to hear that people would take advantage of such a situation, when divers are still in the water. This is a long (and very delicate) shot, but if you have a local contact from the area you were diving in, maybe try to get in touch with the Banjar? Since the people who picked up the camera are known and are local, the banjar they belong to might be able to intervene (factor in a donation fee...). Bombarded with fishing lines from the shore you say? What the hell?

The Nauticam manual flash trigger included with their Nikon housing is very basic. It does not support HSS or Rear Curtain features. I would like to enable these features, so I need to get a new flash trigger. I'd like it to work with both Retra and BS strobes. The TRT i-Turtle SMART 3 MANUAL trigger explicitly calls out that it supports these features with Nikon including support for Backscatter and Retra strobes. No support for TTL. The UW-Technics 11032-HSS-TTL trigger also calls out support for Backscatter and Retra, but includes TTL for over $240 more. Except TTL doesn't work with Backscatter. I don't need or want TTL, so I am inclined to try out the Turtle trigger at a better price. Does anyone have some experience with this or similar Turtle trigger? Are there other products I should consider?

That’s what I’m currently using. Just wondered if making the HF-1 more neutral on its own might make it easier to use.

@waso thanks this is kinda what I had in mind.

Yes. I tried the smc2.. and oh my... Good results but hard to nail down. Smc1 is easier to manage. Good note on the particle bit.

I'll send you printed one for the cost of postage. If you are brave enough to try it! I want more testers. Pull a vacuum for a few days and give it a dive without the camera to build confidence. Run it over with your car, whatever. Anyway, I've been using a 40mm for the last month on about 20 dives, several past 100 feet. Another diver has been using a 20mm successfully as well. Plus you can choose black, white, or blue! :)

Hey all, Looking for a Nauticam N120 Extension Ring 25. Prefer a US based seller. Please DM me if you or a friend has one to sell. Thanks! Chip

Correct and good strategy. Just remember a TC + an SMC is next level of difficulty. Also keep in mind the further you are away from the subject, the more chance of particles in the water column between the lens and subject. Your lighting output will also need to be increased. Sounds like you already understand that part. Let us know how it goes!