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https://makerworld.com/models/2322173?appSharePlatform=copy

I updated the Power Level comparison, trying to find a better and cleaner way to visualize the range and alignment of power levels across the three strobes being compared. Feedback is welcome! (PREVIEW) Power Level Test Suite For this comparison each strobe was set to Full power, Half power, Quarter power, Eighth power. The images were taken with a Nikon Z8, 8-15mm lens at 15mm, 140mm dome, at a range of 65cm from the wall. No filters or diffusers were used. The color temperature of all three strobes is similar at 6200k (Maxi), 6500k (HF-1), and 6400k (Atom). Aperture and ISO were f25 & iso50. As I have compiled the comparison images of brightness and coverage, it became clear that the “Labeled” power levels between the Maxi and HF-1 really don’t map to a common scale. After a variety of methods to visualize the data, I decided to rank the power levels from each strobe by their relative brightness. I used the brightness information from the Photoshop Histogram Information display to capture a common and comparable value. I am sure a professional light meters or similar instrument would be better, but I used what was available. The comparison images align well with the measurements, so I am happy enough with this methodology. The HF-1 has a power level scale from +2, +1, Full, , Half, Quarter, , Eighth, Sixteenth, *. The +2 and +1 levels are documented as Boost modes, but they are fully accessible on the dial. The Maxi has power level scale from +4, , +3, , +2, , +1, , 0, and down to -4. There is a hidden Boost mode accessed by pressing the Center button while at +4. It’s active for just 5 shoots. I suspect this Boost mode will rarely get used due to poor discoverability. (Does anyone ever read the manual?) The Atom keeps it simple with clearly demarked power levels from Full down to 1/32. Additional even lower power levels of 1/64 to 1/1024 are available under a Low Power Mode accessible via the Mode button. Findings: The Retra Maxi is a little brighter at Max Boost mode compared to the HF-1 by a tiny 1% difference. The HF-1 +2 mode maps almost directly to the Maxi +4 level. Backscatter advertises that the Atom at Full is equivalent to the HF-1 at Full. It is close but the HF-1 at Full is 13.75% brighter than the Atom. Summary Notes:The Maxi at +4 is nearly identical in brightness to the HF-1 at +2. The Maxi Boost mode does not move the needle very much further, but it is about 1% brighter than the best the HF-1 can deliver. The fall-off of light is similar across all three strobes at around 1 f-stop 50 degrees from center. The Maxi has the greatest fall off at 1.22 f-stop reduction from center. The HF-1 @ 11 has the least at 0.92 f-stop reduction. The HF-1 and Atom are remarkably similar, as advertised. The HF-1 is 13.75% or 0.07 f-stops brighter than the Atom at full power.

I have tried this on land with a tent made from white ripstop nylon (for diffusion) It is surprisingly difficult to keep all of the air currents out, basically you have to completely weigh down all of the edges and closeup up the velcro zipper around the camera and/or lens to allow no air currents to get in and keep the subject still. Using a shield that is not sealed doesn't work period. You also have the issue that the shield will appear at least partly as the background if it is fully wrapped around. I think any air that gets in then has to exit somewhere, either that or billowing of the tent sides causes air to flow in and out through any opening. In water the forces are going to be greater so any sort of tent or shield will want to sway in the surge as well. Surge can move you, the diver around so anchoring any sort of shield is going to be difficult as the forces on it are quite high. If the shield/tent is loose fabric or mesh it will move and this movement will move the water on the other side of it. It might dampen it a bit but I don't think it will stop it. Being a wave, the surge will also diffract around the edge of the shield. Even if you could find something of an appropriate size, anchoring it on the reef without damaging things or causing subjects to flee I think would be a bigger issue.

Some software, like DaVinci Resolve, has a function where you can set colours using a colour checker, which helps establish accurate colour values. Here is the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mao2HSKxMkY Underwater, where colours are filtered anyway, it seems a bit overkill to aim for colour accuracy rather than visually pleasing results. For example, the colour grading on BBC Blue Planet is far from technically accurate. That said, some videographers do use colour checkers as a shortcut to establish baseline colour information for grading. Personally, I use a WhiBal grey card to set white balance underwater, then adjust in post based on personal preference rather than strict accuracy.

My question is how you would use this? The cameras that I have used simply have a white balance button, and I simply reference off my white fins if I use it. Are you thinking of taking a shot of the card at the beginning of a clip and then using your post processing software on that clip? Perhaps I misunderstand your question or how you would use such a card, and I apologize if so.

I am curious about this as well. Especially, if there is a comparison with Marelux Apollo III 2.0. As circular flash tubes are measured in watts and rectangular flash tubes are measured in guide numbers, it is very hard to compare them solely on the spec sheet. Real world usage input would be great.

So far I haven't done any color grading or any serious video post processing. I wonder do people use color calibration cards? Sounds like a straightforward way to get colors twisted by the usually non-ideal absorbance conditions. Something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/DGK-Color-Tools-DKK-Calibration/dp/B00AWT2QCE Are there underwater-friendly models or shall I keep it in a waterproof pouch?

Yes, it is.

Thanks for all the replies! Definitely some food for thought. As a matter of fact I'm already in contact with him. He has told med that S&S are doing some evaluation for this specific setup, ie 24-50+WWL-C on S&S housing. I guess there are more people than me hoping that would work. So I'll probably wait a bit and see if that leads anywhere. As for building my own fit... nah, after reading here, it's just too much work with stuff I have neither talent, equipment nor interest for. So if the S&S track doesn't lead anywhere I shall probably have to either go full Nauticam or be happy with what I have.

Aloha and welcome @Scubatoth

Complete high quality underwater housing kit for a full setup ready to shoot amazing underwater stills and video! Wide angle and macro ports included (including focus/zoom gear) as well as 2 Strobes! Unfortunately I just don't have the time to dive as much as I used to and this kit would find better use with someone else who's looking to really upgrade their underwater image quality. Everything included in the kit as well as descriptions and reviews can be found below. (NOTE, cameras and lenses not included). Check out the link below! Thanks eBayUnderwater Camera Nauticam NA-D7100 Housing, 2x Sea&Sea Y...Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Underwater Camera Nauticam NA-D7100 Housing, 2x Sea&Sea YS-DI Strobes at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

The only part i designed was the MF-2 body form. In fusion360. I auto generated the tray, then positioned the MF-2 as a negative modifier to the tray in the slicer. Added some text and color accents in the slicer. Here is the MF-2 negative model. BS MF-2 Strobe Negative.stl

Welcome Aboard!

need to post /reply three times to unlock other topics i believe.

try Topaz sharpen tool to sharpen things up and remove some of the motion blur

Love Roatan! Been twice but it's been over a decade now since last there.

Hi everyone, Advanced and Nitrox certified NAUI diver from Canada, and previous underwater videographer/photographer but transitioning away from this due to time constraints and looking to find my gear a new home! Thanks!

I'm using Helicon Focus since a few years, but Zerene Stacker is supposed to produce even better results.

First we must wait for the duels to the death to finish 😁

We need an article that classifies and sorts the different products into categories, with link to serious reviews (In case I would have to acquire a strobe now, I would not even know what, exactly, is at present on the market)...🙂 The adjustable beam diameter of the AOI snoot looks phantastic...

It seems that in these last years there are more strobes than cameras. And many snoots too!!! https://www.facebook.com/reel/856799257136321

That looks great! I'd been trying to design it with the ball mount parallel to the base.....but your design made me realise it can just stick up and still fit in the drawer, and that means it's a smaller footprint for the grids too! And the buttons having their own holes will stop it rotating in the holder. What do you use for the modelling? I need to learn how to do the basics and get my drawer tidied up 😁

Selfish enquiry for the nearby future - has anyone worked on focus gear for the Sony FE 100mm F2.8 GM in its Nauticam N100 Macro Port 125 by any chance?

I was one time at Dive Into Lembeh.. it's ok... 3 times at the Black Sand Dive Retreat (500m south of the DIL) also good and cheaper In a short time I'll try the Solitude it will be probably better (I hope) as the BSDR. All this resort are prefectly organised for the photographe and the guides are realy good for macro.

Agree fully with Chris's first paragraph. For some ports it should be a relatively simple engineering solution to fit the bayone adapter and for others it would me 'Mission Impossible'. For me the biggest challenge was minimising the distance between the front of the lens and the port glass and then the port glass and the rear element of the WWL-C. Every fraction of a mm counted. There realy is very little distance to play with in order to avoid vigneting at the 24mm end. I even removed the filter threads from the lens to gain about 2mm and switched to a 5mm thick port glass from 8mm. I was lucky to be able to visit a Camera shop in Switzerland (3.5 hr drive from home in Innsbruck) to play with the WWL-C and get the required measurements. Was it worth the time and effort? . . . Yes but then I am a retired engineer with nothing better to do with my time. Based on reading many of his posts over the years, Chris obviously has a detailed into what ports and systems could be useable in different scenarios. Sea & Sea have a budget friendly sytem that might allow you to experiment without breaking the bank. However at some point you will probably require a competent machinist to knock up the requred adapter. There are many lurking around in their garages and garden sheds eager to take on the next engineering challenge. How you find them . . . is a different matter. Good Luck with your endeavours.