All Activity

This was snorkeling.... (reduced video speed) is possible to see that the Christmas tree worms are always out of focus https://youtube.com/shorts/olfV4AyEU7s?feature=share

sold

It depends on the entry for me. Most of my diving is shore diving so that's easy, enter the water with the kit fully in place then as I'm heading to the site underwater I just loosen and the click back into place each component. Really simple. For boat entries I take the EMWL off prior to going in, then enter as normal with my main rig, no different to any other entry. I'll then have someone on the boat pass me down the EMWL which I have all 3 parts attached to each other, and as I'm decending I'll put it onto the rig, then loosen and reattach each component as I'm heading to the site. Once you're used to the bayonets it's quite easy. Its not the kind of rig where you jump in and immediately shoot, like you might do with regular WA for dolphins or whales or seals etc so you can take your time. The swing arm looks useful in theory and probably works well, but for me I prefer to go in with the mindset of shooting in a particular way, knowing I might miss the occasional opportunity but it keeps me focussed on my pre dive photo plan. Others might do it differently Mike

Hey Kadu! Great to have you with us. A warm welcome to Waterpixels. A D500 eh? I live that camera! Brilliant for underwater. Enjoy the forum. Best wishes

Aloha and welcome @HugzzPictures !

Hey everyone! 👋 I'm Kadu Pinheiro from Brazil. Underwater photography has been my passion—and my profession—since 2004, and I'm excited to be part of this community. I shoot with a Nikon D500 in an Aquatica housing, focusing mainly on reefs, sharks, and wide-angle photography, although I also enjoy cave diving and macro whenever the opportunity comes up. Professionally, I'm the Editor-in-Chief of Nitrox Magazine (IANTD's official magazine) and the Marketing Director for Blue Force Fleet, so I'm almost always thinking about diving, whether I'm shooting, writing, or creating content. I've been fortunate enough to dive and photograph incredible destinations, including Indonesia, the Maldives, Red Sea, Saudi Arabia, Malásia, Seychelles, Cocos Island, Galápagos, Malpelo, Revillagigedo, the Caribbean islands, Mexico, the United States, and many more. I'm always happy to talk about underwater photography, gear, techniques, marine life, or simply swap stories about unforgettable dives. I'm looking forward to learning from everyone here, sharing experiences, and hopefully contributing something useful along the way. Follow my instagram: @kadupinheiro and web site: kadupinheiro.com Cheers, Kadu

Assemble and seal housing in an air conditioned room. This reduces humidity in the housing. You can use a scuba tank & drying nozzle to spray extra dry air in the housing as you seal it. Microwave your silica packets as they are probably saturated. A few rounds of 5 minutes at 50% power. Store in a Ziploc bag to keep the extras dry.

See if you can purge the housing before closing with dry compressed air from a tank (gently). Or one of those cans of nitrogen for blowing dust from equipment and electronics. And then close up and pull the vacuum.

I’m currently in a shoot in South Africa and for the first three weeks, no issues. Recently though, I have been getting condensation in the inside of my glass dome port and it’s rendering footage unusable. Any tips to avoid this? Nothing has changed, the camera and housing are assembled in the same room and sand conditions. The only slight change is a -1 degree temp change in the water. I have a small silica gel sachet at the back of the housing. Set up is: Red Komodo X for n a nauticam housing Zen 230mm glass dome Canon 24-105 Ext 60 and 30 attached together. Anything I can do to stop this as it’s never happened before. Air temp is 20-25 degrees, water temp 22-23.5 degrees

Bienvenue à bord Hugo ! Si ton application fonctionne un peu mieux que google images, que j'essaye d'utiliser régulièrement pour des espèce au stade larvaire ou juvénile, ça sera très utile 😁

Salut Hugo! Et bien venue à Waterpixels. Nous sommes ravis de t'accueillir à notre forum. Avec mes meilleurs vœux Tim

Bonjour à tous, Je m’appelle Hugo et je travaille chez CYME, une entreprise française spécialisée dans les logiciels pour photographes. Je m’intéresse particulièrement à la manière dont les photographes sous-marins organisent, identifient et retrouvent leurs images. Nous travaillons actuellement sur Specio, une application capable d’identifier automatiquement les espèces présentes dans les photos, directement sur l’ordinateur et sans envoyer les images dans le cloud. Je rejoins Waterpixel avant tout pour découvrir vos pratiques, échanger avec des photographes passionnés et mieux comprendre les besoins spécifiques liés à la photographie sous-marine. Au plaisir d’échanger avec vous !

Do you have some clips showing the focus problem?

Thx not heard of that. Will look it up

It is not a full hemisphere. The optical centre for the 140 is approx 7mm behind the mounting flange. I understand the only full hemisphere ports you can buy are custom jobs.

Thanks - an external battery is not an option unfortunately. On a positive note, I think the problem is partially solved. Looking into my camera settings, I had Auto Power Off set to 5 minutes (which could explain the Anker power bank's 5-minute cut-off time). I set it to 30 minutes and tested it. The camera battery was at 75%, but the power bank has now been active for over 90 minutes and shows no sign of turning off. The screen is off, so I don't know if the battery has charged to 100%, but I see the power bank's LED indicators draining, so I imagine the camera is being powered by the power bank. Exciting, as 1.5 hours is perfectly fine, even though it does mean leaving the camera on in the housing. The ideal situation would be for the power bank to turn on when the camera is turned on, but I don't think that's possible.

Hi Your monitor has twin mounting options on both the top and bottom of the monitor, meaning you can just mount a standard ball mount (with dual screws) top or bottom, and then just use a long clamp or a small arm (5") to position it wherever you want. I have a Weefine 5-HD pro with a dual mount point that I use with an NA-A1 housing (standard camera shape). I mounted the ball mount on top, and use a 5" arm, it's very flexible.

Hi All -- I am in the process of putting together a new system for my Sony a7RV Nauticam housing. I found a smoking deal on a T7HD UltraBright Monitor, and when I received it, I figured out that the mounting system is designed for a Nauticam video housing with 1/4" threaded receivers builtin into the housing like the FX3 Housing. I emailed Nauticam and they suggested looking into something like the Kraken Crossbar. My concern is that the crossbar might put the monitor up uncomfortably high above the camera housing. The other alternative I was thinking of would be to see if I could mount a 1" ball under it and clamp it onto the housing that way. Anyone have experience or recommendations with using this T7 monitor with a non-video camera housing?

Maybe a better approach if you want both options is to have a custom mode for each of them, so the AF lever activates regular AF in one mode and eye AF in the other. Then to access them just turn the mode dial?

Here nice video https://www.instagram.com/reels/DaWzEVKS2PP/ found this instagram account with m67 adapter & magnifier Divereveryday shop has M67 adapter for M1PRO https://diveveryday.com/m67-lens-adapter-for-gopro-mission1/

Ive spend one week in Koh Tao and another week in Bangkok where i was able to do some tests to the Mission 1 Pro & GP13 and in my opinion the M1PRO has strong limitations without proper underwater lens to get some focus back on. Gp-log2 is amazing for color grading, so much flexibility but the lack of focus is really challenging. Dynamic Range and low light in M1PRO is way better than Gp13 and with right distance is possible to get great scenery images, the weak point of GP13. I want to like the M1PRO but unless some 3rd party manufacturer offer correction wet lens specific for focus distance its waste of time in underwater use.

And how do you handle that in 'non-exclusive' situations? 😁 Have you ever assigned Eye AF to a specific button? It would be possible to assign it to the AF-On lever, but then you lose the option for regular servo AF, which isn't really an option for me. It's a shame, Canon doesn't allow more customizable button assignments on the R5 – it's improved on the R5 Mark II, though still not perfect. And yes, I've been using backbutton focus for about 15 years now.

As per topic headline: I'm reaching out to those who have ACTUALLY USED AN EMWL. The question really has to do with "best practices" and reality of getting into and out of the water with this massive chunk of glass and electronics. BOAT ENTRY AND EXIT discussions ONLY - PLEASE I'm aware the "textbook" recommendation is to jump in with all parts separate and assemble in the water. That leads to my question about the usefulness of the reflex arm attachment with dual ball mounts ostensibly for use with a 3 way clamp to attach float and arm at a distant point. I must be total fumble fingers as the thought of trying to attach a 3-way clamp, while in water, while not dropping a $2k+ lens and or my strobe, into the depths, kinda eludes me. I've watched the video where @Alex_Mustard describes taking everything apart to clear copepods from between sections, but never actually SEEN anyone do this maneuver. My dry-land/ pre-trip imagination has me attaching the focus unit via bayonet and covering it, while soft case carry the reflex element and optic in a pocket. Then after rig handed off to me in water, assemble the pieces. OR Assemble fully prior to entry and disassemble underwater to clear? Thoughts?

I completely agree with you. Eye AF is useful in certain situations, but in practice I almost exclusively use the standard AF with the expanded AF area. I have autofocus assigned to the AF-ON button, while the shutter button is only used to take the picture. In other words, autofocus and shutter release are completely separated (back-button focusing).