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The least reliable advice for anything remotely technical by a large margin is AI, lost count of the number of times it has conflated a few different web pages about different models from the same manufacturer and confidently comes up with an incorrect answer. But honestly, just look at the housing - where would you put a trigger? And the AOI trigger is part of the housing and the LEDs are hard wired in so it's their trigger or no trigger, unless you want to perform surgery on your brand new housing. I would be contacting Backscatter and pointing out those issues with their advice and asking how they came up with it.

They might work but they need an additional load on top of the onboard pulse load. If you get one consider the adjustable load one. I think the PD spec is what is killing this, any low power stay on option assumes you only want to draw a little power. If the camera can last one full dive on a fresh battery the path of least resistance might to plug it into a big power bank PD rated via USB bulkhead. Of course this will compete with using an external monitor and vacuum system unless you can find one of the offset vacuum valves which allow vacuum and bulkhead on one M16 hole. Crazy price of $US590 to manufacture one on demand.

60 too….

Really not sure how it is now, with the current political situation and conflict. In the past you you to either sail or drive up to Ranong (easy drive up the highway from Khao Lak, past Takua Pa) hand in your passport for immigration processing, hop on the boat and off you go. Ranong was famous for local joints with super cheap beer, which helped kill time while waiting for the immigration process to be over. Diving-wise it can be great, but you can also get very low viz over at Black Rock, Burma Banks etc Some trips combine the Surin islands (Richelieu) with Myanmar. The maritime border is nearby, when you're at Richelieu Rock you actually see islands that belong to Myanmar just a little up north.

How legit/safe is Myanmar? The trip that could work for me leaves from Ranong, Myanmar and returns to Ranong, Thailand (are they twin cities?). It looks like it's about 6 hours from Rangon to Phuket? I'll end up having about 5 days to get from Rangon to Phuket, so may do a little land tourism.

The one I use doesn't have a trickle down mode unfortunately, and it's the only one which fits in the housing. I ran a test this morning, plugging in the powerbank and turning on the camera but not using it. Powerbank stayed on for about 20 minutes charging the camera (which went into sleep mode) before shutting down. I first saw the battery LEDs were off but the camera charging LED was still on - and when I activated the camera it was still charging. However I came back 15 minutes later and the this time the camera charging LED was off, and the camera was running on normal camera battery, powerbank completely off. I didn't check levels but I'm guessing battery level had reached 100%, so nothing was happening and the powerbank shut off completely. I ran other tests, basically camera on or off it's impossible to get past the 15 minute mark. It will work fine while diving, it's just that I like to pull the vaccum early before diving, so this limits the application quite a bit. I'm really curious about the keep alive devices and might try one. Ideally I would need a battery pack which only turns on as the camera is turned on and pulling energy, just not sure how practical this is.

Glad it worked

The pencil eraser idea was brilliant! It took about 30 seconds to fit and it works perfectly. Thank you!

White fins and buddy's aluminum cylinder which is gray. In video mode white balance must be set before shooting. If you really want to get technically accurate colors you can use cheap and large color checker analogues. But I think it would be inconvinient to carry and use during a group dive.

Sugru is a good suggestion, have not heard of that in a long time. Here is an odd idea - can you form something out of a pencil eraser.

I bet something like gorilla glue construction adhesive would hold it together. Shoe goo may as well.

Kintsuglue or Sugru.

My AOI UH‑OM1II housing has a torn rubber bumper on the movie button, so the button won’t actuate. I’m trying to get a replacement, but it may not arrive before our trip to Roatán on the 8th. I’m looking for ideas for a temporary substitute—something small, compressible, and able to transmit the button press without shifting. Has anyone improvised a fix using bits of silicone, trimmed O‑rings, gasket material, or anything similar? Any creative solutions appreciated. —Adrian

I don’t use Pixelmator so can only guess on its operation. Id suggest though not necessarily using an auto system. Better to start I think doing things manually and getting a feel for what function creates what effect. All that said, back to what I said originally: it’s all very personal. If you’re delighted with the end result, then bingo!

I’m also not sure about the video lights for still photos. You might consider just getting one strobe to start out. The Atoms sound great, but you can also do all right with used Inon z240s/330s, Retras or something similar. The wide angle wet lens is a must.

Thanks for the response. UWCameraStore also explicitly states that it works with "Sony TTL (HSS)" and maybe more importantly the backscatter HF-1 which uses the same protocol as the atom and MF-3.. So I'm inclined to believe it does in fact work without the added trigger. Frustrating that backscatter support wasn't more helpful and specific in answering the question. They probably spent more time emailing me an unsolicited sales invoice for something I was always going to buy from the web store, than they did researching the issue.

From what i can see, the AOI housing is custom made to fit only the AOI HSC-03 trigger that is supplied with the housing. You can see the very tight fit here, leaving no space for any other trigger. Other thing is that the housing has custom pins that connect the trigger to the LED's baked in the housing. And these you dont find in any other trigger. But AOI does say that it supports Sony TTL, so i think it should work. And Backscatter strobes are made by AOI.

Hello, I'm upgrading my system and trying to get to the bottom of flash triggers. I will be pairing an AOI UH-A7CII housing with Backscatter Atom flashes. The atom listing says they accept Sony TTL signals, and the AOI housing manual under "Flash control" directly states "Sony TTL (Auto HHS)." So I asked AI if I needed the backscatter trigger for TTL, and it said yes. Then I asked Backscatter, and they said no. Then I asked Backscatter if the AI was wrong and they said actually no, their mistake, I would in fact need the Backscatter trigger. I'm just trying to understand why the housing would state Sony TTL is supported, and the flash would say it supports Sony TTL, but those two things wouldn't be able to talk to each other. Maybe it's a case of no good information existing publicly for some newer products, but I'd love to be able to save $500 and the added bulk of the BS trigger if it's not needed. Does anyone have a similar system that can confirm one way or the other?

Many Nauticam users are already using the N120 to N100 35.5 so it will be linked to demand for N100. I suspect it will come in N100 but no conformation at this time.

There will be an N100 adapter eventually?

I have sent your lens suggestions to the design team for consideration and they are in the process of additional lens testing. Also be aware that adapter rings for Nauticam and Sea & Sea are ready to ship so that the Aquista 135D can be used with those housings. Adapters for subal , seacam , hugyfort and Isota will also be coming. These adapters also allow the use of many Marelux ports and extensions on the listed housing brands. For Nauticam I believe N120 will be coming first.

Easy is the point. Tribolube PTFE is safe and compatible with all orings. Silicone lube is not and can damage or cause leaks.

I am sure lenses will be added and removed as we get user feedback. For Sony I will be trying the 28 F/2, Rokinon 28-60 F2.8 and a few more.

Bump.

Thanks for all the input, I really appreciate it! Being new to editing I'm mostly lost on the initial color wheel stuff. I'll automate that in Pixelmator pro, then automate the individual saturation/brightness and adjust those sliders to try and make something that doesn't leave the subject too washed or blown out. Mostly I'm guessing on how colors actually expose. My project file corrupted but here's an example of how the color automation was set early in the edit.