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Thx not heard of that. Will look it up

It is not a full hemisphere. The optical centre for the 140 is approx 7mm behind the mounting flange. I understand the only full hemisphere ports you can buy are custom jobs.

Thanks - an external battery is not an option unfortunately. On a positive note, I think the problem is partially solved. Looking into my camera settings, I had Auto Power Off set to 5 minutes (which could explain the Anker power bank's 5-minute cut-off time). I set it to 30 minutes and tested it. The camera battery was at 75%, but the power bank has now been active for over 90 minutes and shows no sign of turning off. The screen is off, so I don't know if the battery has charged to 100%, but I see the power bank's LED indicators draining, so I imagine the camera is being powered by the power bank. Exciting, as 1.5 hours is perfectly fine, even though it does mean leaving the camera on in the housing. The ideal situation would be for the power bank to turn on when the camera is turned on, but I don't think that's possible.

Hi Your monitor has twin mounting options on both the top and bottom of the monitor, meaning you can just mount a standard ball mount (with dual screws) top or bottom, and then just use a long clamp or a small arm (5") to position it wherever you want. I have a Weefine 5-HD pro with a dual mount point that I use with an NA-A1 housing (standard camera shape). I mounted the ball mount on top, and use a 5" arm, it's very flexible.

Hi All -- I am in the process of putting together a new system for my Sony a7RV Nauticam housing. I found a smoking deal on a T7HD UltraBright Monitor, and when I received it, I figured out that the mounting system is designed for a Nauticam video housing with 1/4" threaded receivers builtin into the housing like the FX3 Housing. I emailed Nauticam and they suggested looking into something like the Kraken Crossbar. My concern is that the crossbar might put the monitor up uncomfortably high above the camera housing. The other alternative I was thinking of would be to see if I could mount a 1" ball under it and clamp it onto the housing that way. Anyone have experience or recommendations with using this T7 monitor with a non-video camera housing?

Maybe a better approach if you want both options is to have a custom mode for each of them, so the AF lever activates regular AF in one mode and eye AF in the other. Then to access them just turn the mode dial?

Here nice video https://www.instagram.com/reels/DaWzEVKS2PP/ found this instagram account with m67 adapter & magnifier Divereveryday shop has M67 adapter for M1PRO https://diveveryday.com/m67-lens-adapter-for-gopro-mission1/

Ive spend one week in Koh Tao and another week in Bangkok where i was able to do some tests to the Mission 1 Pro & GP13 and in my opinion the M1PRO has strong limitations without proper underwater lens to get some focus back on. Gp-log2 is amazing for color grading, so much flexibility but the lack of focus is really challenging. Dynamic Range and low light in M1PRO is way better than Gp13 and with right distance is possible to get great scenery images, the weak point of GP13. I want to like the M1PRO but unless some 3rd party manufacturer offer correction wet lens specific for focus distance its waste of time in underwater use.

And how do you handle that in 'non-exclusive' situations? 😁 Have you ever assigned Eye AF to a specific button? It would be possible to assign it to the AF-On lever, but then you lose the option for regular servo AF, which isn't really an option for me. It's a shame, Canon doesn't allow more customizable button assignments on the R5 – it's improved on the R5 Mark II, though still not perfect. And yes, I've been using backbutton focus for about 15 years now.

As per topic headline: I'm reaching out to those who have ACTUALLY USED AN EMWL. The question really has to do with "best practices" and reality of getting into and out of the water with this massive chunk of glass and electronics. BOAT ENTRY AND EXIT discussions ONLY - PLEASE I'm aware the "textbook" recommendation is to jump in with all parts separate and assemble in the water. That leads to my question about the usefulness of the reflex arm attachment with dual ball mounts ostensibly for use with a 3 way clamp to attach float and arm at a distant point. I must be total fumble fingers as the thought of trying to attach a 3-way clamp, while in water, while not dropping a $2k+ lens and or my strobe, into the depths, kinda eludes me. I've watched the video where @Alex_Mustard describes taking everything apart to clear copepods from between sections, but never actually SEEN anyone do this maneuver. My dry-land/ pre-trip imagination has me attaching the focus unit via bayonet and covering it, while soft case carry the reflex element and optic in a pocket. Then after rig handed off to me in water, assemble the pieces. OR Assemble fully prior to entry and disassemble underwater to clear? Thoughts?

I completely agree with you. Eye AF is useful in certain situations, but in practice I almost exclusively use the standard AF with the expanded AF area. I have autofocus assigned to the AF-ON button, while the shutter button is only used to take the picture. In other words, autofocus and shutter release are completely separated (back-button focusing).

Another option other members have been happy with is the Howshot 140mm, about half the price of Nauticam.

@Adventurer I'm not familiar with that reputation and I think you might be totally wrong there. According to Nauticam (having consulted Ryan Canon as well as a few others who frequently have used both wwl:s) there are no IQ differences, only different optimization for different focal lengths. So I don't know where you get that from? I've also researched the WACP-C as an option to the wwl:s and consulted Nauticam reps as well as a few "qualified" Nauticam shooters, ready to spend the €€€€, but they all advised any IQ variations would be hard to detect, much like the conclusion Interceptor came to in the pool test you referred to earlier. One big difference is if you're in the surface a lot and will have an issue with the wet "layer" of the optics. There are of course many variables going into what suits "you" and your shooting. YMMV.

No, I haven't read the Divemaster yet. Then I'd be interested to know if you use the eye AF and how you've assigned the buttons/levers on the Nauticam housing to use it effectively.

I use it for a long time :) The first article in the Divemaster was from my side...maybe you have read it :)

interesting!

good question - i have a seperate adapter for a retra flash.

You did not say what system you have. Unless you are shooting an OM Systems camera or a TG you will not have TTL capability with the Backscatter strobes. Possibly with a Sony only if the housing has room for a rather large and clunky and expensive and proprietary trigger to insert. Probably beyond your needs but the Retra Maxi has the largest power range of any current strobe from barely a flash to huge power! And has universal TTL. The price Delta between the HF1 and the Maxi is not that much considering the two products. The Maxi is maxi! And neutral in the water without floats.

Because with a little modification, the Commlite allows the combination of the EF 8-15/4 with the RF extenders.

As others have said you need to know which DP100 port you have - it should be labelled, they have different amounts of extension built in, the one designed specifically for the Canon 8-15 is the DP-100-N120CR, this is used with no extension when added to the N100-N120 Nauticam adapter. this is the N120CR dome, you can see the built in extension: Assuming of course you are referring to a DP100 dome, we need to know which one to recommend the right extension. Reef Photo & VideoZen DP-100-N120CR 4 Inch Glass Dome Port for Canon 8-15...Zen DP-100-N120CR 4in Glass Dome Port for Canon 8-15 /4L, Nauticam Housings, Removable Shade So you think you need a huge dome port to take advantage of your fisheye lens? Think again! Canon 8-15 /4L If you have a different model Zen DP 100 you will need to work out the extension required. If you have the 8.5" acrylic dome port it uses the 30mm extension on top of the N100-N120 adapter. it won't be as good for CFWA as the large dome pushes you further back from your subject.

Ahhh, didn't know... 😁

Hi @Terri - congrats on your new Canon 8-15 and Metabones V. This will work perfectly with your Sony a7rV. I own an a1 in a Nauticam housing with this exact lens / adapter combo. Which specific Zen dome do you have? It does make a difference. The Zen 100 is not the best choice for a high res FF body due to the ultra small dome size. There is also a version made specifically for the Tokina 10-17 which is different than the one made for the Canon 8-15, again neither are recommended for the high res systems. The N100-N120 adapter with the zoom knob and Nauticam c815-z gear is how you will zoom the lens. Add an N120 30mm Extension for the 8-15 and Metabones for proper mounting. If you later add a 1.4x TC an additional N120 20mm is needed either as a 20mm added to the 30mm or using a separate 50mm Extension. I use the Nauticam 140 dome port with my Canon 8-15. It is a full hemispherical dome which is what is best for the fisheye lenses and the smallest size that will provide good corners for high res FF systems. Teleconverters also work with this dome whereas they cause a horrible "smearing" in the corners when attempting to use it with the Zen 100 designed for the 8-15.

Question what is the mounting format ? Marelux or ????

sold

Nobody like to use this beaty?