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on the plus side I have been using the ring light at work to take photos during syrgical procedures (ENT surgeon) and it is fantastic with my new 11-20 2.8 tamron for wide angle macro images

I also find this statement somewhat strange and will decide either for the (very expensive) Nitecore or the (significantly cheaper) XTAR anyway.

I posted 2 links -the first led to the Backscatter page and the second showed the other battery model with only 10A. But: Backscatter claims that the amperage doesn't matter (see my quote in my last post): 'The batteries we sell have been tested and work properly with our lights. The NiteCore and the Xtar work fine the different amps have no real issue with the lights.' However, I also find the word 'lights' somewhat strangely chosen in this context.

This seems a little ambiguous, the recommended batteries are 5000, 5300 and 6000 mAhr rating and either 20A or 25 A rated and they state to only use the models they list (which can be purchased from many outlets). It seems what they are saying is the mAhr rating doesn't matter much and should be rated for at least 20A. Of course the problem is that other brands may claim they are 20A capable but they may have just bought a label to stick on their cheap cells. It might seem like a lower amp rated battery might be OK, but electrically the circuit will try to draw what it needs and overload a lesser battery that is not rated to supply the needed amps.

I am using them on the AOI UIS-P1, those batteries with 25A discharge help the strobe recharge quickly. Be careful, the link you provided is for a different Xtar model. The ones I sent you are 25A, which are the recommended ones. The other model does not specify the A rating, but it is usually lower, 8 or 10A, so you need to check carefully.

This converter from Retra might work, particularly if you are using a Retra strobe: Retra UWTE-Opto converterThe E-Opto converter is a simple and reliable optical trigger that generates optical signals from electric input. The E-Opto converter comes with pre-installed batteries that will last for more than 1You would need to confirm your Nikonos is wired the same way , it should work with other strobes on manual, but as you will note it is not guaranteed to work with strobes other than Retra.

Yes with the Retras, they have very good light quality and an even beam without diffusers. For something like the YS-D3 I think I would want the diffusers on as they seem to rely on them for a good beam. For a DIY reduction ring you could probably 3D print a press fit ring, I expect a ring of wetsuit material which was a tight fit over the strobe would also work.

I made a lot of housing in the past using compass domes. Look for a company who fixes them .

Ikelite 200 Dl Housing for the Nikon Z50 II camera. Bought new in December of 2025 less than 3 months old. used one time in shallow water dive. Have to sell because of health issue. I paid $1,895.00 plus shipping and taxes. will sell for $1,500.00. The pictures here are from Ike's website but look the same as my housing. not a scratch on the housing in perfect condition. I live in South Florida and own a Hotel called the Blue Seas Courtyard. com

Just to mention it... Backscatter replied to me with the following: 'The batteries we sell have been tested and work properly with our lights. The NiteCore and the Xtar work fine the different amps have no real issue with the lights.'

I use the dome diffusers with my Tokina, and it's perfect even light. I still get some noticeable hot spotting when using the normal diffusers and the Tokina.

Hi all I'm "upgrading" from M43 to FF, so selling my Panasonic GX9, Nauticam Housing and various ports and lenses. All separate lots, check out my eBay: https://ebay.us/m/NSVn1C Cheers Joe

Dear peers The title says everything. Said differently : how would you connect a modern strobe, which can only be triggered by fiber optic, to an Old Nikonos V or Nikonos RS analaog camera. How do convert electric into fiber optic directly from the outer N5 plug? Eric

Thank's for your comment, I didn't experience any issue about the waves, etc. But I always used it with flat sea, if you have to take splits the waves are a pain in the ass. What I use to do is to put underneath the housing any kind of flotation device ir order to balance the camera the more I can, if not, it tends to submerge the housing and leave the dome above, which is difficult to manage and very tiring for the hands. I deal with this dome the same way any other port, I make the vacuum and leave it the more time possible before go into the water, it never loosed it. But to be absolutely honest if I had to do it again I would look for any way to block the ring which connects the dome with the housing. The fact it's threaded in addition to the leverage exerted by such a big plate has give me more than a scare when I carry the rig because it's easy to unthread the dome accidentally. But I have plans to make any kind of blocking latch, it's not a big deal to install it

I also thought the same, but after choosing the size you have to choose the type of material, between aluminium or acrylic and the only option appearing is end cap, So this leads me to guess that you can choose only the rear cap and in the front the only difference is the flange they send with the enclosure, but the dome port is always 4". I hope I'm wrong.

REDUCED: I am selling my complete Ikelite 6801.72 FL underwater set for $300 USD plus freight (I will consider serious offers). Would like to see this rig get used instead of sitting around.

You use the ring and no defuser? I've been trying to defuse my way past the poor water conditions we get this time of year, perhaps I need to DIY some rings.

Thanks! May I ask, if you're using the NL2160HP with 20A, or the NL2160 with 8A? Thanks for the Link! May I ask, which strobes you are using this batteries in? This appears to be the same battery I linked to in my first post: https://www.backscatter.com/Xtar-Dual-21700-5000mAh-Rechargeable-Li-Ion-Batteries However, on the site you linked, they cost only a fraction of the price compared to buying directly from Backscatter. Interestingly, XTAR offers a slightly more expensive version with 6000mAh, but only with 10A: https://www.akkuteile.de/en/lithium-ionen-battery/protected/size-21700/xtar-21700-5000mah-3-6v-3-7v-li-ion-battery-electronically-protected_100839_3404 So if someone is successfully using the Nitecore version NL2160 with 8A in the HF-1, this version would probably also work. I'm still waiting for Backscatter to answer my questions... Btw: I just received information from a Nitecore employee that the model NL2160HPI is only suitable for specific Nitecore flashlight models. So, don't buy it for underwater strobes!

I recommend Xtar batteries. I've been using them for years now and have never had any problems. They are also recommended by Backscatter itself. But be careful, you have to buy the 25A ones. https://www.akkuteile.de/en/lithium-ionen-battery/protected/size-21700/xtar-21700-hp-25a-ampere-5000mah-3-6v-3-7v-li-ion-battery-electronically-protected_100644_3403

bah humbug. It turns out that the few extra mm engendered with a +1 filter is too much for the macro port too! Back to the drawing board. I'm ordering a shorter macro port to use with a shorter and therefore closer focusing macro lens 🙄

price reduction: 280 Euro

price reduction: Sony 90mm macro lens (new: 799 Euro): asking 450 Euro Focus gear (new: 220 Euro): asking 150 Euro Macroport 105 (new: 440 Euro): asking 290 Euro selling together as set for 850 Euro (preferred).

My experience with both 5300 and 6000 Nitecore batteries in the HF-1 and Maxi is that you will not be able to exhaust the capacity of these cells shooting photos. Video Lights are another story, but can't realistically shoot enough photos in 3 or 4 dives to exhaust the battery.

Because the batteries will be used in the HF-1, I was writing an email to Backscatter for a recommendation. Hope to get their answer soon. Someone here on the forum has mentioned that only the Nitecore work with the HF-1 but this was some time ago and I can't find it back. This has certainly changed by now, otherwise Backscatter wouldn't sell any other batteries for the HF-1. Indeed, very interesting.

If they are for the HF-1, Backscatter are quite specific on what models will work with that strobe as it has a very high current draw . Cheap batteries are always a risk. see this link, quite interesting, it's for 18650 batteries but same risks with the bigger cells: 18650 batteries flaws