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I have this Behringer controller and used midi2LR a fair bit but wasn't quite satisfied with this solution. First you have to spend quite a fair bit of time setting it up, then building the muscle memory. Then I could never be fully reliant on it and had to switch back and forth with the mouse and keyboard. The hand(s) have to move a bit too much around. And finally there was quite a noticeable lag between the moment the wheels are turned and the sliders are changed. Look story short, I ended up buying LrSuperKeys (https://www.lrsuperkeys.com/), which is an LR add-on, not an external device, and this has been AMAZING. The way I use it: in LR, in the develop module, I now long press on a key and then either use the scrollwheel or click+move the mouse to adjust the sliders. So I'd press 1 to change the temperature, 2 for the tint, 3 for saturation, 4 for vibrance, Q for exposure, W for contrast, ASDF for highlights/whites/shadows/blacks, ZXCV for tone curve control, etc, 6/7/8/9/F5/F6/F7/F8/F9 to control red/orange/yellow/.../magenta (and depending on where the mouse is on the screen, it changes the hue, saturation or luminance), etc. Keys and shortcuts can all be configured. This has massively improved my editing workflow, the learning curve is minimal, there's no need for an external device, and... it's very fun to use.

+1 for this Protactic BP 450 AW II, it's been very solid. I usually carry my housing, FF camera, 2 or 3 lenses, 2 60D strobes, viewfinder, strobes and camera batteries and charger, focusing light, SMC-1, laptop, sometimes even laptop charger. I keep the ports, ports extension, arms, clamps and spare parts box in a check-in luggage, but could probably fit the macro port by changing the layout. It probably clocks in at 15kg with the laptop. Of course it's very heavy, but it's still comfy and conspicuous enough.

I did some modification to my LSD, to make is eaiser to attach\deattach from the strobe, the major part can be clipped on the BCD for most of the time underwater.

The LSD is fairly large. I do have a pocket it will fit in. I think it will be a mix of mostly macro and some snoot, but not sure.

I'd expect the similar result as using Sony FF body+90mm macro, larger FOV, zero to almost infinity focal, and slightly negative magnification. And maybe faster AF?

I have both the Panasonic and Olympus 30s and I really can't tell them apart, the Oly supposedly has a bit more native magnification but at the port more or less. The real reason for me to use the Oly is that it allows RC mode and the Panasonic doesnt Bill

Okay thanks, was worried I was missing something. The MFO-3 or MWL-1 on the 45mm would be an interesting experiment.

Yes, sorry, you are right, I said something stupid. I was thinking about my 45mm. It doesn't make sense on this lens; in fact, I think it's practically impossible to mount a diopter. My only doubt is what would happen if I mounted an MFO-3. I edited my post.

BTW, the Nikon 24-50z lens is dirt cheap on used lens sites like KEH. The WWL-C is fairly reasonable too.

Maybe a little crazy. A 230mm dome is a beast and a lot to handle. It will be big and easy to bump it in to stuff and possibly damage the dome. The 230 is really a very niche port and many UW Photographers only use it for split shots at the surface. If you are worried about spending money on gear you won't use much, I'd put a 230mm dome near the top of that list. You should consider starting a little smaller, maybe with a macro lens or smaller dome. The 140mm fisheye or WWL-C are nice and compact, a lot easier to start out with.

Pardon my ignorance but doesn't a diopter just shorten focal length and so not really offer anything for a lens which can focus on the glass anyway?

Great pics. Looks a bit Bonaire-ish. Love that place So I have never really handled a full rig under-water. Am I crazy for just going for a 230mm dome and my z14-24 and seeing how it goes?

I've just travelled to and from the Maldives using the pro tactic. It was fully loaded and carried everything bar my arms. It was around 12kg and took the weight easily (unlike my body). I much preferred it to my normal carry on suitcase but the weight certainly should be considered as the picking up and putting down is a pain especially in lifts, transfers etc Nauticam na-r7 housing N100 flat port wwl1b 18-45 lens Zoom gear 7 clamps Vac pump 2 retro pro max (plus two diffusers) 16 aa batteries 2 camera batteries 2 aa chargers 1 Torch battery Phone charger Cables Etc (happy to take a pic loaded if it helps)

Sony just announced their new sony A7V and a new kit lens https://alphauniverse.com/stories/sony-electronics-launches-alpha-7-v-and-fe-28-70mm-f-3-5-5-6-oss-ii/ Personnally, I'd be very interested in seeing how that new kit lens will work with current wet lenses setups from Nauticam.

I recently started to use the z24-50 with the wwl and it is a very capable combo. If you value small and light it is a winner. Not large animals, but 130 degrees FoV.

Unfortunately the Backscatter Sony Trigger won't fit in a Nauticam housing for a 6700, but I know the Turtle TTL Trigger worked with the HF-1, so I'm wondering if it will also work with the Atom, if it did that would be another option.

Port in very good condition. Comes with front and rear caps. Has been a good friend, but I am selling the Gates AX100 housing I was using it with. Since this fits quite a few Gates video housings, am listing it separately.

Removing straps and belts won’t save more than 2 cm at most

Kind of depends on what you're doing. If mostly snoot, then attach, if mostly macro and occasional snoot, I store it and attach as necessary. I had a large Marelux snoot that barely fit in a large drysuit pocket, but the Backscatter OS-1 easily clips off with a small bolt snap to the camera tray.

Trying again here. The strobes have been sold, all else (Nauticam housing, body, lens, port, miniflash/triggers, batteries) just as described/pictured, for $1,000, buyer pays shipping/insurance.

I agree completely with Dave. If, however, you want a rectilinear instead of the distortion inherent in the 8-15 and WWL, AND are willing to deal with a large or huge dome port and long extension ring, the 14-24 is OK, the 16-35 F mount is, I think a bit better, but will have to use the FTZ. Not sure if your 14-24 is a Z or F but am guessing it is a Z mount. I have heard good things about the Z14-30 and it is smaller and lighter than the 14-24. But I never use any of my wide rectilinear lenses. 8-15 or WWL is it. I think the image quality is a bit better in the 8-15 in a 140 dome, but WWL is more versatile. (Great shot, Dave)

As I am about to head out on a dive trip and will be snooting for the first time, a question occurred to me. Do you folks with snoot experience usually carry the snoot in a pocket and affix it for a subject then stow until needed again, or leave it on for much or all of the dive? I found and bought a suitable pocket to hold the LSD (thank you for the suggestions with that), so that is taken care of. I sort of suspect it makes more sense to carry it in the pocket and attach when needed, but I am curious about what others do. Thank you for suggestions. JD

I am about to re-enter this crazy expensive hobby again after a couple of years away. I had a Nauticam A1 set up but due to separation sold everything. I am about to upgrade to an A1ii for topside but I am not sure I need the A1ii for underwater and could save a little money by buying a second A1 body used for redundancy rather than having two A1ii bodies which here in Canada are pretty much $10000 each with taxes. Thoughts from those who have shot both underwater Thanks in advance, Jamie

HSS on my Backscatter HF-1didn’t work with my UWT trigger. I was probably doing something wrong. I’ve since gotten rid of that HF-1, but I may revisit Backscatter’s strobes again in the future.

Aloha and welcome @littlehighland6 !