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I have a naive question on HSS generally: When camera and flash are operating in HSS mode, but one selects a shutter speed slower than the fastest flash sync. speed possible, is the maximal flash output still reduced, compared to manual mode?

Matthew and I recorded this last week about the Maxi. Not much new here - we summarise a lot of what is in this thread. But we do show lots of photos taken with the Maxis and also video of us shooting with the strobes.

I found the same thing using the Apollo strobes vs the Backscatter HF1s shooting blackwater back in March. Working in the desirable range of 2-4 frames a second shooting blackwater (you really don't need to shoot faster than that), I found the HF1 always gave me more light than the Apollo. Marelux suggested there might be something wrong with both of their strobes I was using.

The field can be estimated same way as any lens and 8-15 with 1.4x becomes a 11-21mm lens. You still get the full 180deg diagonal at 15mm actual focal length, this means 11-14.9mm (actual focal length vignettes with the corners dark, similar to what you see between 8 and 15mm on the bare lens. I've done the calculations assuming an equisolid fisheye projection and with the 1.4x at 15mm FL (11.2mm on the zoom ring) the horizontal field is 144 deg, while zoomed all the way in to 21mm the field is 96 deg wide which is about equivalent to 16mm rectilinear lens. Comparing horizontal fields gives a better idea of coverage in my view.

Big rabbit hole!

Hello, thanks for the useful Feedback to @Wolfgang @Adventurer @jjmochi . Unfortunately I have the Sigma mc-11 and an Old Version of metabones nex to ef - my 1.4 tc doesn’t fit (like written in here before - the tc is too big and hole of Adapter to small but now you know mc-11 doesn’t fit as well… before I Jump In buying a new metabones Adapter: do you know if with the tc you can still zoom to have a wider field of view (like 180 degree field on the normal widest end 15mm without TC)? It would be critical for me to have a big coverage and a bit Zoom would be amazing)…Thx in Advance

Hi, 100% agree with Chris. Eizo is the benchmark. Tested several monitor and ended up with Eizo for my picture editing. Little pricey, but really true color after right calibration, long warranty and no dead pixel. And my monitor is working for years now without any issue. Second monitor together wit the Eizo I use a cheap LG but this one is only for the toolbars, open folders, rename/edit files etc., not for picture editing. Br Markus

There are lots of monitor choices around these days, but the field for truly colour accurate monitors is much more limited. I have a pair of Eizo color edge monitors, One is a CS2731 and the other is a more basic Eizo model. I use the good panel for my image and the second screen will have the various toolbars, like actions, libraries, history etc on it. It is also used when I need another app open and visible at the same time. Realistically as far as I have been able to work out Windows only properly supports one monitor profile, though I haven't dug in more deeply recently. If I recall correctly I calibrated the secondary panel once and used a workaround to apply the calibration. One of the reasons to have a high end monitor is so that they can be calibrated well to show the full colour gamut they are capable of, so to me it makes sense to have one good quality monitor and a second for more pedestrian work that doesn't need the colour accuracy. I think you won't go wrong with Eizo panels. Though they mostly have 27" panels and some larger ones in the high end CG range but they are quite pricey. They have good warranty cover and dead pixel policy. This company is enthusiastic about colour accuracy and you read their monitor recommendations here, they recommend Eizo and for cheaper monitors BenQ range: Monitor Recommendations | Image Science

Is this the boundary you measured?

118mm OD 45mm height It's a wet lens but these dimensions should work

I'm looking to upgrade my 2x27" generic HP monitors to one or two 32" monitors that can work with my PC as well as with my MacBook. I'll just use the PC for basic computer tasks, and use my MacBook for Lightroom and iMovie editing. The Apple Pro seems to be a safe if very expensive choice, and not so good with the PC. I see a lot of rave reviews of the ASUS 6k monitor. Benq seems to get good reviews for a combination of photo and video editing.

The issue with the 12-32 is you need to zoom in to 14mm to stop the vignette, a minor inconvenience I guess. I recall that the non-pancake Panasonic 14-42 was tested some time back and found to give the best performance.

WWL-1 - $700 32 Flat Port - $100 Plus shipping

Yes, it's a parametric Fusion360 model. Inputs are simple: Outer diameter of the port shade (which must be 100% vertical on the OD) Height of the tallest shade leaf to the flat underside of the port body dimensions need to be accurate to 1mm, round up The dome port needs to be a simple "mushroom" shape dome for this to work. BTW, the open grid is a property assigned in the slicer software, so it can be solid, tight, loose, whatever you like. It's just a modifier that applies a honeycomb infill with no top/bottom layers, creating the hex pattern. If you provide your port model and dimensions, I will generate a model for it and include that when I upload the design to Makerworld. I probably won't share the Fusion360 file though.

Oooo I'd like one of those for my Sea&Sea 12mm, it needs the bump protection. You have a parametric model?

Welcome! TG to FF is a big jump!

Hi Max, Welcome to the rabbit hole then! Ciao

Hello everyone! My name is Max! I have roughly 150 dives under my belt, and I’ve recently fallen down the rabbit hole of underwater photography. I’m really interested and looking to learn new things and get answers to my questions! Currently using a TG-7 but looking to upgrade to a full frame soon! (Hopefully😅) And that’s me! Hope everyone is well

This 68shore TPU is pretty cool: Flexible, but supporting 19lbs / 8.6kg without deforming. The cap is under 60grams.

30% hex pattern about 5mm cells:

I can see that possibility but i think its low probability. I could make the mesh tighter however. I will try that maybe 5mm or less cells. This is intended to replace a neoprene cover, not an OEM provided locking hard cap. In that context, this cap is quite stiff and will protect better than neoprene which actually does touch the glass and scratches domes with salt and sand all the time. This will flush well in a dunk tank even better than a hard cap and definitely neoprene.

First let me say that I applaud all of your efforts to provide free models and inexpensive parts to the community. In this case my feedback is that I personally wouldn't want to use a cap that leaves open the possibility of objects poking through and scratching the dome or the cap material being bent into the dome (and again potentially scratching it if something like sand is in there).

Not in this case. RC is part of the MFT consortium open source stuff, not reverse engineered because there is no need to. It's why you are seeing so many strobes have RC if even no other TTL at all... anyhow. That said, Ikelite had to make a different and specific version of the RC TTL reciever for use with the AOI LED flash triggers vs the one that works when on camera flash is used. That seems to point to some issues with the output of LED vs flash to make the RC protocol work properly (https://www.ikelite.com/products/rc1-olympus-ttl-receiver-for-aoi-led-flash-trigger-and-ds-strobes?_pos=41&_sid=0ac781af2&_ss=r) I would think for folks with an AOI or other LED trigger for RC, check the trigger manuf and strobe manuf and make sure they play nice with each other before buying, even if same brand trigger and strobe.

Promised packed images, measured at the heighest spot without compressing (just a bit compressed easy 19cm) - so or so, no problems at all to fit into the 22cm rule.

Having finally gotten my OM-1, AOI UH-OM1II housing, and dual Atom Flash strobes, I can verify that HSS does, in fact, work in RC/SC mode. You just switch FP on in the camera, leave the strobes on SC, and you can increase shutter speed to your heart's content (or until full power isn't enough from the strobes, at which point they beep). This is true on a tabletop, not yet in the water, though.