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Nauticam has it listed as compatible with the 90mm in normal macro mode. I'm planning on picking up an MFO 3 later this month and will report back

I saw some articles that said the optics are the same as the the first version of the 28-70 so i would expect that the it would be the same performance behind the WWL/WACP optics as the existing lens, so the 28-60 would likely still be the better choice.

i already have that camera and housing since 2017.... for 1000 dollars its a real bargain.... for underwater use is still a very good package... 👍

Thanks Chris for your help! during my tests (above water) the camera was set to typical settings used under water: F2.8-22, 1/60 to 1/250 s, flash at first curtain. I tested with >1 second and second curtain flash in order to check if there is a second flash. --> Yes, there is definitley one (or two?) pre-flashes and a main flash. However, maybe with this setting the flash as enough time to recharge. So this does not prove that there is always more than 1 flash. My statment rather aimed at the question if there is ALWAYS only one pre-flash with Olympus or if, in some cases, there are also 2 pre-flashes. I read somewhere that in difficult situations (also when face detection is turned ON), there are 2 pre-flashes, in easier situations only one. No idea if this is true. Pavel knows for sure and I assume he is following this discussion. But it COULD be, that my problems just occur whenever there are 2 preflashes because they draw too much energy from the capacitor. Regarding soldering: In addition to the TTL converter there was a normal flash trigger delivered, consisting of a hot shoe connected to a small "mainborad", which is connected to the 2 bulkheads. To my understanding, I would have to exchange the hot shoe with the Hot shoe from my old TTL converter (which is not a mainboard, but a hotshoe by itself). Pavel told me that the UW Technics trigger is not compatible with fiber optic connection to the Subtronic flashes. These flashes only work with electrical wired connections. Currently, I am working with a mode for a weaker flash (setting 6 on the converter, intended for the Inon z330) and it somehow works, but not perfectly as it should. Changing to other flashes is tempting (especially with hss and/or RC options) but somehow risky since I cant be 100% sure where the problem is located. I already tried 7 different cables meanwhile - all of them are N5-N5 wired, identical to the ones offered by Subtronic. All of them work perfectly well with other housings and flashes. Regards, Jens

Lucky for UW photographers, the body is Before the A7V was released, it was rumored to be same body as A7RV, but seems like its few millimeters off just like with the A7 IV. A7 V 130x96x82 - A7 IV 129x97x81 - A7 RV 131x97x82 Button placement looks same in all 3, so maybe a small conversion kit?

Welcome @eikenhorst Shot Hugyfot and DX for 20 years. Moved to mirrorless z6iii in a Nauticam earlier this year. The 24-50+wwl-c is a neat combo 70-130 degess of FoV. Sharp allover. A bit more rectilinear than a FE, but you get some distortion/curvature. Semi-fisheye?

Pretty sure I have one of your books in my ”library”! Welcome mr @Paul Kay

UW, perhaps not as much challenge with a big dome as topside. It might create weird twisting forces due to the amount of air you have at the front and the risk of bumping and damaging it pointed out by @Dave_Hicks , but traveling with it, as @TimG mentions … I transitioned from DX dslr with a largish dome to FF mirrorless earlier this year and it is much more travel friendly. A small dome and a FE is a very good choice. If you have or can find an 8–15—solid choice. For rectilinear WA, the Nauticam wwl+24-50 produce better IQ inmo than a big dome. Sharper all over the image and more contrast. The wwl-1C which is the compacter version, is ’just’ 1300ish US$. Housing, camera z6iii, strobes, lens, cables, macroport and extension in a light weight carry-on case. 8 kgs . 👍🏼Not from Bonaire but from Alor in Indonesia earlier this fall. Also a loveable place.

And the new 28-70 has the same minimal focus distance as the old one. Let’s see…

More importantly: will the A7 V fit into the A7 IV housing? I don’t think so, but at least there is some hope. As I use my camera not only below the surface, the precapture-option seems very interesting to me. And 4k60 without crop is a long desired feature.

As Dave suggests, a 230 dome is a beast. It's easy to think that its is just another inch larger than an 8" dome - but wait still it arrives. They are huge. I used to use one with my D800 setup and a Nikkor 16-35 but after a few trips, gave up on it. It was either the 230 dome or my girlfriend. She refused to travel with it - and can't say I blame her. It was like travelling with an extra family member.... (I exaggerate of course, but you get the idea) I'd go with the 8-15 and a 140 dome.

If I'm setup to shoot macro I use the snoot almost all the time - so leave it on. Like flowdesign, I made a very small modification (see pic) - actually an addition - to my LSD by using a tie-wrap to attach a small shackle at the pointy end. Combined with the loop (and another shackle) already on the LSD, I can clip it on to my BCD or, at a pinch, squeeze it into a Zeagle pocket which I have added to my BCD.

Great choice. What are you hoping to shoot? Where at?

I would like to try the MFO-3 with the Oly 90 lens but it apparently is not a good fit for that lens. Chris Ross uses it with the 60, I might try it with the 60 for black water but my experience with the MFO-1 (it was useless) makes me a bit wary. Bill

Thanks all!! Exactly the advice I was looking for. So it sounds like an 8-15 fish + the 140mm dome is a reasonable choice for what I want to shoot.

I have this Behringer controller and used midi2LR a fair bit but wasn't quite satisfied with this solution. First you have to spend quite a fair bit of time setting it up, then building the muscle memory. Then I could never be fully reliant on it and had to switch back and forth with the mouse and keyboard. The hand(s) have to move a bit too much around. And finally there was quite a noticeable lag between the moment the wheels are turned and the sliders are changed. Look story short, I ended up buying LrSuperKeys (https://www.lrsuperkeys.com/), which is an LR add-on, not an external device, and this has been AMAZING. The way I use it: in LR, in the develop module, I now long press on a key and then either use the scrollwheel or click+move the mouse to adjust the sliders. So I'd press 1 to change the temperature, 2 for the tint, 3 for saturation, 4 for vibrance, Q for exposure, W for contrast, ASDF for highlights/whites/shadows/blacks, ZXCV for tone curve control, etc, 6/7/8/9/F5/F6/F7/F8/F9 to control red/orange/yellow/.../magenta (and depending on where the mouse is on the screen, it changes the hue, saturation or luminance), etc. Keys and shortcuts can all be configured. This has massively improved my editing workflow, the learning curve is minimal, there's no need for an external device, and... it's very fun to use.

+1 for this Protactic BP 450 AW II, it's been very solid. I usually carry my housing, FF camera, 2 or 3 lenses, 2 60D strobes, viewfinder, strobes and camera batteries and charger, focusing light, SMC-1, laptop, sometimes even laptop charger. I keep the ports, ports extension, arms, clamps and spare parts box in a check-in luggage, but could probably fit the macro port by changing the layout. It probably clocks in at 15kg with the laptop. Of course it's very heavy, but it's still comfy and conspicuous enough.

I did some modification to my LSD, to make is eaiser to attach\deattach from the strobe, the major part can be clipped on the BCD for most of the time underwater.

The LSD is fairly large. I do have a pocket it will fit in. I think it will be a mix of mostly macro and some snoot, but not sure.

I'd expect the similar result as using Sony FF body+90mm macro, larger FOV, zero to almost infinity focal, and slightly negative magnification. And maybe faster AF?

I have both the Panasonic and Olympus 30s and I really can't tell them apart, the Oly supposedly has a bit more native magnification but at the port more or less. The real reason for me to use the Oly is that it allows RC mode and the Panasonic doesnt Bill

Okay thanks, was worried I was missing something. The MFO-3 or MWL-1 on the 45mm would be an interesting experiment.

Yes, sorry, you are right, I said something stupid. I was thinking about my 45mm. It doesn't make sense on this lens; in fact, I think it's practically impossible to mount a diopter. My only doubt is what would happen if I mounted an MFO-3. I edited my post.

BTW, the Nikon 24-50z lens is dirt cheap on used lens sites like KEH. The WWL-C is fairly reasonable too.

Maybe a little crazy. A 230mm dome is a beast and a lot to handle. It will be big and easy to bump it in to stuff and possibly damage the dome. The 230 is really a very niche port and many UW Photographers only use it for split shots at the surface. If you are worried about spending money on gear you won't use much, I'd put a 230mm dome near the top of that list. You should consider starting a little smaller, maybe with a macro lens or smaller dome. The 140mm fisheye or WWL-C are nice and compact, a lot easier to start out with.