All Activity

I’m on my first trip with my A1 in a nauticam housing. Above water the camera sleeps normally after 10s of inactivity. But in the housing, the camera won’t sleep. I think it’s the eye sensor picking up the housing? If I set the camera to manual screen then the camera will sleep so, but I’d much rather use the view finder. Is there some setting I’m missing, or a trick y’all have figured out to fix this? Otherwise I’ll resign myself to using the power switch all the time.

Cephalopods shot during my recent trip to Anilao, April '26. feedback welcomed.

Hmmmm, maybe the OP needs a Dave Hicks cover for his rare S&S lens! Maybe I do too for my Nauticam dome ;).

I was NOT able to get Advance mode to function well, lots of ficus breathing even with good contrast and light. Green mode worked better but seemed to be slow to close the aperture and fire the shot. Updated the adapter firmware and HUGE difference. Advanced mode now works far better, maybe a bit better in Green mode. I'll be looking to 3D print a zoom gear since I can now use DMF with Advanced mode.

Yes, i made a TPU rubber design that is much easier to install underwater than neoprene and it rinses and cleans better. Currently available Dome Ports are:• AOI DLP 06• Nauticam 8.5 inch • Nauticam 140mm• Nauticam 180mm• Sea & Sea 12mm • Zen DP 100• Zen DP 170 https://makerworld.com/models/2391039

Hey man, thanks for sharing these images. Those flares look pretty nasty. I am seriously considering the WACP-C as an all-round lens, but after seeing this, I might go with the traditional dome port and 16–35mm setup instead. Does this happen every time you shoot toward the sun? I actually enjoy shooting into the sun when using strobes because it creates great sunballs, so I'm wondering how much of an issue this is in practice. Hey man, thanks for sharing these images. Those flares are pretty brutal. I was seriously considering the WACP-C as an all-round lens, but after seeing this, I might go with the traditional dome port and 16–35mm setup instead. Does this happen every time you shoot toward the sun? I actually enjoy shooting into the sun when using strobes because it creates great sunballs, so I'm wondering how much of an issue this is in practice? Hey man, thanks for sharing these images. Those flares look pretty nasty. I am seriously considering the WACP-C as an all-round lens, but after seeing this, I might go with the traditional dome port and 16–35mm setup instead. Does this happen every time you shoot toward the sun? I actually enjoy shooting into the sun when using strobes because it creates great sunballs, so I'm wondering how much of an issue this is in practice. Hey man, thanks for sharing these images. Those flares are pretty brutal. I was seriously considering the WACP-C as an all-round lens, but after seeing this, I might go with the traditional dome port and 16–35mm setup instead. Does this happen every time you shoot toward the sun? I actually enjoy shooting into the sun when using strobes because it creates great sunballs, so I'm wondering how much of an issue this is in practice?

I took my TG 6 with the FCON 2 Lens on when I went snorkeling. I told the camera I was using the FCON Lens II. When the camera got below water the camera would zoom in to cover the full frame. When I tried to go to the full 180 circle mode it would not ?

I have a significant divot in my Sea&Sea 12mm from a shore exit because I couldn't get the neoprene "bikini" cover on. I've been trying to figure out a better design since. I believe Dave Hicks has 3D printed designs in TPU.

I always keep my lenses covered entering and exiting. My WWL hard cover is drilled for a piece of cave line and bolt snap. The cover is always attached to the lens safety line or clipped off to my scooter ring when in use. My CMC lenses and dome port have neoprene covers which likewise have a small bolt snap for me to clip them off to the camera when on the lens or to my scooter ring in use. Ikelite has several full neoprene covers with a zip drawstring that are easier to slip on than the bikini type. I use one of those on my 4.33 inch Nauticam dome. And, of course, a bolt snap.

While on safety stops in the past I've thought about how "best" to protect all the glass surfaces while entering/ exiting the water. The perfectly fitting branded covers and cases for multiple wet diopters are SUPER expensive, and in my past experience, most often they fall out of fingers to the bottom of the ocean. One thought was custom covers made out of neoprene with bungie/elastic to hold in place. I'd like to get covers made for: - currently unprotected Nauticam 87macro port with dual flip - MFO-3 on one arm of a dual flip - both front and back of lens - SMC-1 on other arm of the dual flip - again both front and back of lens - EMWL (thinking "sock-like") I'm fortunate that a friend and fellow diver gifted me a custom made neoprene cover for my WA 13mmRS lens - but I personally don't have "a guy in Thailand" to make any other covers. Anyone have any suggested solutions (premade?) or recommendations on what to tell a local tailor or where to find salt water proof supplies other than recycled wetsuits?

Thanks for this @Davide DB !

Hey Romik, thanks for the great feedback and great video! I actually have an extra camera that I can use for a top-down shot, so maybe the WACP-C would be the best option after all? :)

Following up on the Marketplace announcement, here are some of the main features members will be able to use. Marketplace gives members a proper place to buy, sell, trade, and look for items without everything getting buried in forum topics. Member features include: - Create your own marketplace listings - Add multiple items to a single listing - Upload multiple photos for each listing - Choose the main/default photo for the listing - Set a price, or mark an item as free or negotiable - Post For Sale, Wanted, Trade, and mixed listing types - Add item condition, location, and detailed descriptions - Browse listings by category - Search and filter marketplace listings - Save listings to come back to later - Contact the seller directly - Comment on listings, where enabled - Follow listings for updates - Mark your own items as sold / closed - Relist expired listings - Manage your active, sold, and expired listings from your own listing area - View seller profiles and other listings from the same seller - Leave buyer/seller reviews and feedback after a transaction - Build a visible reputation through marketplace feedback - Edit History captured (every edit to original listing captured and visible publicly The goal is to make buying, selling, and trading easier for members, while keeping listings organized and easy to find. Marketplace is still being improved, so member feedback will help shape what gets added next.

We have probably the best article in this topic:

Tim, I have the Turtle 3 for my Nikon D500 in Subal housing and do not remove the LEDs from the trigger. I just remove the trigger from the hot shoe whenever I need to remove the camera from the housing. The HSS works with my Retra Prime+ and the Turtle.

Hmmm, that's an interesting thought. I guess though that you can leave the electronics box attached to the LEDs and just slide the box off the camera before removing it from the housing? In the same way you would remove a hot shoe connector?

Hi all! Have a trip scheduled next month to Malapascua to see some Threshers Ill only be having a GoPro with a Backscatter Sharp Wide Lens Pro No strobes or lights allowed in these dives Anyone have any tips on settings that can be useful in this situation? I know that I’m not expecting any cinematic footage with this setup, but I’d like to maximize it as much as i can Thanks!

There is no flare problem when shooting sun with WACP-C. You will get flare with mispositioned strobes facing the WACP glass but not otherwise. For snorkel with whales its a non issue (no strobes) Having said that I wouldn't bring WACP-C for whale snorkel trip. Never been on one but if it is anything similar to my Orca experience in Norway you are going to spend a lot of time on the small boat chasing the whales and jumping in and out of water. And so you may miss a lot of pictures and videos topside. With dome not so. All my topside shots in Orca video are with camera inside of housing behind 180mm glass dome. Also one of attached pictures. For Orcas I had 20-70 F4 with 180mm and 16-35 F4PZ which I haven't used. For whales I probably would. Honestly I think that all technical discussions for snorkel trip are nonsense. The rule of the game is be light be quick and have great AF. Also external monitor will be invaluable for these shots floating on the surface extending arms down and getting shot from down below. Wed5Pro may prove to be the best investment :-). Good luck :-) WACP-C 20-70 with glass dome

Well, a bit late, but for a period I didn't use the forum a lot. Here the answer for future readers I just attached to the tray (with a screw and nuts) a quick release arca swiss, that I can use to attach the tripod I'll attach 2 pictures of it so it will be clearer. I don't have the tray anymore, but that's not the important part 😁

I am a bit late to the party, but here my pimped GoPro, for macro, super macro and wide 😁 Lenses: Inon G55 (super macro) Inon G165 (macro) Inon G140 (wide) Tray, main floater, clips and the 2 short arm from AliExpress (really cheap, but served me well for 3 years) 2 Arm floater with lens holders from inon Tripod from Joby (5k version) Torch DL08 from wurkkos Torch here On my Instagram you can see some of the results (I have that problem, the one that I like to shoot a lot of cool video, but edit just a small part of them 🫣) Insta: Elvandar

And probably for the same reasons I explain here. The electronic IBIS must know the real lens FOV to electronically compensate your movements.

I got the answer from AI, did not verify it, but makes a lot of sense, hope it helps: You need to tell your Olympus/OM System TG-series camera (TG-6, TG-7, etc.) that you're using an **FCON-T01** or **FCON-T02** fisheye converter lens in the menu because the camera uses this setting to apply the correct **optical corrections and zoom behavior** for that specific lens. ### Key point from Olympus documentation: > "When using the FCON-T02, change to settings appropriate for shooting with the converter: In Live Control's **Accessory Settings → Converter Name (Conversion Lens)**, select **[FCON-T02]**" [2] ### What happens if you don't set it: The biggest practical issue is **vignetting** (dark/black corners around your image) because the camera doesn't apply the distortion/vignetting correction specific to that fisheye lens [3]. You'll still get the fisheye effect mechanically, but the image quality degrades significantly at the edges.

It looks like the turtle manual talks to the camera as it says it automatically switches to HSS if the SS goes over max sync speed, which you would need to configure to 1/250 in the trigger, the default seems to be 1/160. You would also need to confirm the HSS will work with your Retras as it doesn't mention strobe compatability on the website. Your alternative is the Nauticam trigger which doesn't register with the camera and will sync to 1/400 without HSS. This will give you more flash power at 1/400 than a HSS trigger will deliver. It a purely manual trigger. It should be able to rear curtain sync as well as this is set in the camera and I can set it in my camera without a flash attached. I'm pretty sure it will fit, it mentions it is OM-1 compatible.

Friend of mine is just getting the same in few months time, OM1ii in Nauticam. He is getting the the ULM laser trigger, but i guess you want to use HSS when looking at the TRT one? For the size, im 99% sure the TRT fits, as the Nauticam housing has huge space for their own bulky trigger. I have TRT 3 myself, for Sony, but its pretty much the same. The only thing i dont like is that you have to connect the cable from led's to trigger when taking/putting camera in, and have forgotten about it once and almost felt like i broke the pins/cable when taking the camera out.

Since we are really splitting hairs now 😄 Here is my take. One aspect nobody has talked about is shooting in murky water with the WWL. In my experience, the WWL suffers from the same issues as the EMWL, and I don't see why it would be any different. I happened to shoot video in a river where there was a lot of mucilage in one area. The mucilage particles inevitably ended up in the space between the lens and the port. Unfortunately, you couldn't see anything with the naked eye on the monitor, and by the time I moved into an area with crystal-clear water, it was already too late. My buddy, using a standard port, brought home several good shots. Mine were all to be thrown away. Also, for anyone who takes video seriously, I should point out that wet lenses that change the lens FOV trick the IBIS algorithm, which needs to know the focal length of the lens. The impact is minimal, but the footage will never be rock-steady. People have always thought I was a bit crazy, and I believed this was a problem with Panasonic, which has the best IBIS on the market. Then recently, @bghazzal sent me a link to a Nauticam page about Sony cameras that talks about this exact issue: Nauticam "forgets" to mention that 99% of the time its users are using zooms and not prime lens...