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I was thinking about the Seacam too, for 16-35 for sharp rectlinear FF, without having to schlep on a big*ss dome. But I know little about its compatible lenses… So only Nikon, huh. Peculiar. For semi-fish, Nauticam and a WACP or WWL with a 28-60 for SONY would be the no-brainer inmo.

Domeport 180mm and Sony 16-35mm is not the perfect combination, 230mm domport, or, even better, Seacam PPO is the way to go (but this is not what CCRphoto asked for)... (Seacam wrote me that the excellent Sony 26-35mm GMII works very well with their PPO; flange distance in Seacm housing seems to be bigger compared to Nauticam, hence after doing appropriate recherches, Saga could make an adapter for Nauticam) But it may be useful still to state that it depends very much on a particular lens. Tamron 17-28mm works very well behind 180mm, even 170mm, domeport. Same with Sony 20-70mm. I can say this from my own experience, I use both lenses behind Zen DP170 with A7R5/Nauticam..

Yes it depends what you are shooting! A 230mm dome is a big beats of a thing to travel with. As I recall you were shooting archeological sites, I guess you could crop some or zoom in a bit and do mosaics. You could always look into the new Seacam precision port but it currently only works with a Nikon 16-35 I believe, it'll do a great job at emptying your wallet though! But seriously, I recall you mentioned you thought a 20-24mm lens might do what you wanted and it will play better with a 180mm dome - The Sony 20-70 is one that a few people on here like.

I agree. Cover the OD of the leafs and with an inner wall to to pinch the groove inside the tree tall leaf shades. Perhaps a thin elastic rubber collar at the top of the float to capture bungees. Now i just need a WACP-C, FCP, n100 Sony 90 & 100mm macro ports. Covers and float collars for these are all on my ToDo list.

Yeah, that was my thinking too. My experience with 16-35 rectilinear lenses (in my case the Nikkor 16-35), is that a 230 domeport is pretty much essential unless you are happy with squishy sides and corners. Even then and stopped down to say, f11, perfection is not guaranteed. You can avoid the problem of course by having non-important edges - blue water for example- where blurring has no impact. But once you start shooting reefs, the edges do tend to show up and is, in my view, one of the drawbacks of FF sensors. (But I think we have sailed around this buoy often enough)

Welcome onboard Brett, good to see you here!

Hi Mike Some excellent learning points! Yep, group dives are pretty hopeless for taking "good" pics. If you go back to Indonesia and you want to photo macro, I'd recommend the Lembeh Straits. Not only amazing (weird!) diving, buy most operations run a two guests-to-one dive guide system. So spending time taking images is relatively easy. And yes, you definitely need a guide but, believe me, that's good! Wide-angle shots with a group is, errr, challenging to get all the flailing, inelegant legs out the way. Take a buddy (preferably with good legs) and a guide. Sounds as though the Salted housing buttons may have been subject to the water pressure at 30m and just kissing the camera buttons sufficiently to cause unexcited activations. Expensive though they are, that's one reason why the aluminium housings (Subal, Nauticam, Isotta etc) are so good. And so expensive! Yes, by and large, you get what you pay for. Sounds as though you had fun though - which is a large part of what its about......

just coming to the end of a wonderful trip to komodo and gili air. came with quite a lot of gear that I hadn’t really used much before - but after doing Alex Mustards excellent reboot course and then fannying about underwater for a fortnight several things are apparent taking good photos on a group dive is impossible- you need time and ‘normal’ dive groups don’t give it to you. ‘drive by’ snapping are very hit and miss you get what you pay for. The salted line alpha 6xxx housing is usually waterproof and cheap but don’t expect to be able to change the settings at 30m- at one point it was randomly scrolling though the iso settings for no reason - another times the shutter wouldn’t work the sony macro 90mm 2.8 is a stunning lens- when you can get it to focus! next time i even think about it i’ll put it on manual and set the focus before the dive - use a snoot and just take pictures of things that way. Should be great I’m definitely coming back to Indonesia

🤣 believe or not but myself I see sometimes the same pinkish water with my naked yes. I do however have IOL implants so maybe that's that 🤣 Your blown out part is nothing else than sun shining through 12m of water column and I SPECIFICALLY said that you should judge the footage on HDR capable screens. You posting a JPEG here means nothing else than that you watched it some crappy SDR monitor and made a screenshot from it. If not you do realize that JPEG as a screenshot can't display HDR content, right?🤦🤦 As for 16:9 videos - that's the beauty of 360 camera - you can frame whatever you want to frame. Listen - I saw this footage reframed for use on my 72inch 4k TV and you will have to take my word for it that it is stellar. Yes, my Sony A1 footage from the same scene looks a bit smoother in shadows and everything but we talk about difference of full frame vs 1inch sensor sensitivities. And USD 14,000 vs USD 900 solution. Listen no doubt that GoPro M1 is capable action cam although with terrible shortcomings for UW use (optically) but the output is what matters and I am saying that also and especially with the flexibility in mind with the X6 and its underwater solution arrival there is no need to carry action cams underwater anymore. Plain and simple.

Photos that you like during the month.. lock after the month is over, you can not unlike or like again. Photos that you have not liked can be liked no matter when they were uploaded. In theory you would clear your queue.. with passes and likes. Then as new photos are uploaded you would like or pass. the results would be newly added photos every month. But not to dismiss photos already uploaded you can like older ones

That went overboard quickly 🤣 You might want the bigger dome with a wide rectilinear like the 16-35, unless only the center of the image needs to be sharp, which tbh in many cases is usable. Nauticam recommends the 230 mm glass-dome.

Hi @Dave_Hicks My thought is to have a cover that simply covers the outer shade, not including the float collar. Attached are some images. To the best I can determine, the shade dimensions are: 5.75" as the outer diameter of the lens shade at the top I am not able to determine if the base of the shade is the same as the top 1.75" as the height of the tallest point of the lens shade Bungee cords cross wrapped around the float collar would hold it in place. The current design of clipping inside of the shade is attractive, but also can easily come off if bumped just right while in the water. Having a cover that would cover the entire float collar would be too big for my taste to carry during a dive. A cover around the shade only seems to offer some protection while not becoming cumbersome during the dive. What are your thoughts?

There's a few posts on the various Sony 16-35 zooms on the forum, as I recall the 16-35 ones that focus very close do OK in 180mm domes. You could look at UWPMAG back issues, @Phil Rudin has reviewed many of the 16-35 options available in there, Here's a link to his 16-25 zoom review. https://waterpixels.net/forums/topic/1877-nauticam-support-for-sony-16-25-f28-g-and-laowa-10mm-f28-af-lenses/#findComment-17652 I recall he also reviewed the 16-35 PZ lens.

Welcome Simon. We met in Moçambique some 20 years ago when you and Andrea were there.

I use the FE PZ 16-35 (in a Seacam housing with the compact dome which is 170mm) and I'm satisfied with it. I bought it over the other 16-35s because it's light and compact, and doesn't need a zoom ring - I just control the zoom in/out with the left and down arrow buttons. This might be slower to operate than a zoom ring though. Image quality is good. I occasionally wish it had a longer reach, that it had an even lower min focus distance, and I don't use it much topside because it is slow, but we can't have it all! I'd buy it again. 1/125 f/8 iso 1000 16mm 1/125 f/10 iso 500 16mm close focus 1/125 f/8 iso 320 19mm close(ish) focus 1/100 f/13 iso 500 26.5mm closest focus I could get to on this yellow-tipped phyllodesmium. All uncropped

Newly posted - otherwise previous months winners would have a head start.

I missed this subject... Question... each month all the pictures can be choose? Or only the new posted ? I'm not sure I understand the rules?

After a lot of asking questions on here, heaps of research, several spreadsheets, and a few other things, I have decided to load up with - Sony A7R VI camera - Nauticam Housing - Sony 100mm macro lens + Nauticam N100 125mm macro for it - Sony 16-35 rectlinier zoom lens + dome port - diameter to be decided - Nauticam MFO-3 and SMC-3 wet lenses - Retra Maxi strobes - Nauticam 7 inch monitor Main Question at this stage is - - has anyone used any of the Sony 16-35 zooms? I'm particularly interested in the FE PZ 16-35mm F4 version as that doesn't physically extend like the GM F2.8 versions, and so I think that it will be better in a 180mm dome than the GM F2.8 versions because of that.

Hi Brett A warm welcome to Waterpixels Great to have you with us. We hope you enjoy the forum Best wishes. Tim

Bummer I can not provide dimensions or send in the port at the moment…

Very excited to join the Waterpixel community! I am an underwater photographer and videographer based in Sydney. As a Sony Advocate I have a wide range of Sony Cameras I get wet, including A1ii, A1, A7Siii and soon FX5. Looking forward to connecting with everyone.