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Last photo cropped lower left to show the Lens Profile banding on the border introduced by Lightroom.

Same settings, but at 50mm. Color corrected a bit.

I was able to try this lens out yesterday underwater in a 140mm dome. 1/160 sec at f/8.0, ISO 100 @ 20mm. I bumped up the exposure +.55 in Lightroom, but otherwise no other changes. One negative, is the Lightroom Profile Correction for the new lens leaves a thin border banding. I assume future versions will fix this.

Awesome! Where are you diving at present?

I have been using Tribolube for almost 20 years on my Oxygen (and non-O2) regulators, Cameras, Strobes and Lights. It's identical to what Nauticam provides as best I can tell. Looks, feels, spreads exactly the same. One 2oz/57g tube should last you the better part of a decade. You can also choose to get it in a syringe, which makes it easy to refill the little portable Nauticam tubes. https://www.divegearexpress.com/tribolube-71-o2-compatible-lubricant

Just an update. Have the incredible Retra Maxis strobes in the water now for two weeks and several more dives yet. There is a learning curve with them. But the reason for the post, the sleeves I made from an old wetsuit arm and especially the @Dave_Hicks bumpers are performing fantastic to protect my beautiful, shiny silver Retras from all that nasty marine stuff! Thanks.

Impossible to know. I have everything Nauticam and I use their lubricant. I only noticed that Nauticam one looks exactly the same i use on my O2 cleaned regs and rebreather.

Lube list? Which ones are the ”same”? I have Inon, Nauticam, Sea & Sea and Hugyfot atm. Not sure which ones are interchangeable.

I do think CFWA is a good option in poor viz. The setup is based on getting very close to a subject but setting it against a wide background. The poor viz alternative is macro. It could be of course that in poor viz the background isn’t great or at least far from ideal. But that doesn’t necessarily matter. I’m not sure about using video lights. But maybe others can comment on using them for WA with a TG. I wouldn’t do it with larger sensor cameras for still images.

I’m the same, got pots and tubes of the stuff all over the place. In 25 years I think I’ve used 3 of those small rounds 1” tubs that are fitted with a key chain.

In 15 years, I have never had to buy any grease for O-rings. Every housing and every Nauticam port comes with a tube inside, and you need so little of it that they are practically infinite. IIRC, in the past, at some trade show, I even scrounged a couple of tubes from the Nauticam importer by threatening him 😁 Having done technical diving for over 20 years, I can confirm that it must be a lube with a percentage of PTFE. Nauticam lube is practically identical to oxygen-compatible lube . Christolube is terrible because it leaves dry residue, unlike other apparently unbranded types that I use.

Hi all, I have in my possession a TG-7, PT-059 housing, seafrogs tray/handles and some cheap-ish arms/clamps. On the firm advice of members of my local dive club I have two video lights on their way from China (LetonPower L15) and this will at least get me started. Most of the divers in my club who shoot lean towards what I’d call generic point and shoot, or macro whereas my natural interest leans more towards wide-angle stuff but I don’t know how realistic a goal it is to be aspiring to capture close focus wide angle shots in UK waters and typically those in the North England & Scotland. The reading I’ve done so far (I think) seems to suggest that cfwa is appropriate in poor vis so should be something I can work on but I’d like to check I’m on the right track. I guess my questions are: 1) Am I going to be able to scratch my wide angle itch in my local diving environment (weather permitting) 2) is my setup going to work, at least for now? Long term I’d look at getting either a 120 degree wa lens or the weefine fisheye (I love fisheye) 3) can I get away without strobes for now? again long term I’ll get some, probably backscatter atoms Thanks, Jon

There were some posts on wetpixel a while back, haven't managed to find them , but as I recall they are all correctly called perfluro ether greases and are reported to be universally compatible with all o-rings. I believe that Tribolube and Christolube include some PTFE in the formulation and I found while searching some reference to Christolube eventually leaving some white deposits while Tribolube did not. I never saw any trace in Nauticam lube, it's quite a thin formulation. I also happened across the pricing on some sites which was around 140 $AUD for a 2g tube or about 1/3 the price of gold!🤣

Hi Hoekma! A warm welcome to Waterpixels. Great to have you with us. Good luck with switch. And your bank balance…. 😝

Very cool Dave! That’s how I clean my suckers, too.

No, not feet or meters....just jumping into my next "new to me" rig. Going Sony A7RV from an OM-1 to get deeper into video. God help me and my personal finances 😄 .

Nauticam grease is the same of Tribolube/Cristolube. Get a good size tube and it will last for years. I load it up into 3ml needle-less syringes for home, and squirt it back into the little Nauticam tubes for travel use on the road. The Nauticam flip adapters are aluminum and can be removed by hand. The only tool I ever need is a microfiber towel to get a better grip. Like you I often dive two to three days a week. If possible a quick rinse of the rig at the dive site. (Rinse tank dip, bucket of water, shower, etc) I rinse and soak the housing in the sink after a day of diving. (Maybe an hour, maybe overnight) I pull the optical fiber plugs to remove any salt from those ports. Remove from sink, blow everything dry with a strong handheld blower, especially glass Take off the back to get the memory card and camera battery Wipe off the back o-ring ( never lube, rarely remove but rinse under faucet if visibly gritty) Remove and recharge strobe / spotting light batteries Very lightly lube o-rings of the same. (Almost never remove these) Reload all batteries. Port stays installed until I want to change lenses, then wipe o-ring and surfaces. Rarely lube. Close up camera and pull a vacuum before the next dive. Everything else with arms, clamps, removing o-rings, taking things apart I do only rarely or if the whole rig had a really rough week.

Thanks all. To be clear, I'm looking for ways to streamline the workload because I dive with the camera every second day, while still keeping everything healthy. Leaving the port on works, as does not lubricating the main O-ring after each diving day, which will save time compared to what I do with the clamshell. Removing the flip is a constraint, unless Nauticam's design is easier than AOI's (the AOI requires a special plastic tool to screw in the centre piece). I guess I'll have to find a balance, like removing it once a week or so. I'm familiar with ultrasonic cleaners as I used them for regulator servicing when I worked in diving. They're great, but at the moment I've been doing fine with what I have on hand for manual cleaning. I'll consider getting one in the long term. I'm curious. I know this has been discussed before, but I couldn't find a definitive answer. Is Nauticam's lubricant for grey silicone O-rings a PFPE/PTFE grease like Tribolube or Christolube?

Have fun! Summer vis can be variable. I hope it's fantastic! Be sure to order nitrox for you and your buddy! During my visit we had 50-100ft vis but only below 55 feet. 25-55 was close to zero. So all the diving was deep and my buddy was on air. I was on CCR. Let's just say my buddy ended up in deco on every dive with close to zero reserves!

Great shots and video. I'll be heading to Rendezvous Dive Adventures in a couple of weeks. Your photos and video have me pumped up for the trip. Nice work!

Looks like you had some nice viz and I really like the Mola Mola. Well done!

A dreamlike setting... Very nice video. Thanks for sharing

Very nice, thanks for sharing