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Yes, it's a parametric Fusion360 model. Inputs are simple: Outer diameter of the port shade (which must be 100% vertical on the OD) Height of the tallest shade leaf to the flat underside of the port body dimensions need to be accurate to 1mm, round up The dome port needs to be a simple "mushroom" shape dome for this to work. BTW, the open grid is a property assigned in the slicer software, so it can be solid, tight, loose, whatever you like. It's just a modifier that applies a honeycomb infill with no top/bottom layers, creating the hex pattern. If you provide your port model and dimensions, I will generate a model for it and include that when I upload the design to Makerworld. I probably won't share the Fusion360 file though.

Oooo I'd like one of those for my Sea&Sea 12mm, it needs the bump protection. You have a parametric model?

Welcome! TG to FF is a big jump!

Hi Max, Welcome to the rabbit hole then! Ciao

Hello everyone! My name is Max! I have roughly 150 dives under my belt, and I’ve recently fallen down the rabbit hole of underwater photography. I’m really interested and looking to learn new things and get answers to my questions! Currently using a TG-7 but looking to upgrade to a full frame soon! (Hopefully😅) And that’s me! Hope everyone is well

This 68shore TPU is pretty cool: Flexible, but supporting 19lbs / 8.6kg without deforming. The cap is under 60grams.

30% hex pattern about 5mm cells:

I can see that possibility but i think its low probability. I could make the mesh tighter however. I will try that maybe 5mm or less cells. This is intended to replace a neoprene cover, not an OEM provided locking hard cap. In that context, this cap is quite stiff and will protect better than neoprene which actually does touch the glass and scratches domes with salt and sand all the time. This will flush well in a dunk tank even better than a hard cap and definitely neoprene.

First let me say that I applaud all of your efforts to provide free models and inexpensive parts to the community. In this case my feedback is that I personally wouldn't want to use a cap that leaves open the possibility of objects poking through and scratching the dome or the cap material being bent into the dome (and again potentially scratching it if something like sand is in there).

Not in this case. RC is part of the MFT consortium open source stuff, not reverse engineered because there is no need to. It's why you are seeing so many strobes have RC if even no other TTL at all... anyhow. That said, Ikelite had to make a different and specific version of the RC TTL reciever for use with the AOI LED flash triggers vs the one that works when on camera flash is used. That seems to point to some issues with the output of LED vs flash to make the RC protocol work properly (https://www.ikelite.com/products/rc1-olympus-ttl-receiver-for-aoi-led-flash-trigger-and-ds-strobes?_pos=41&_sid=0ac781af2&_ss=r) I would think for folks with an AOI or other LED trigger for RC, check the trigger manuf and strobe manuf and make sure they play nice with each other before buying, even if same brand trigger and strobe.

Promised packed images, measured at the heighest spot without compressing (just a bit compressed easy 19cm) - so or so, no problems at all to fit into the 22cm rule.

Having finally gotten my OM-1, AOI UH-OM1II housing, and dual Atom Flash strobes, I can verify that HSS does, in fact, work in RC/SC mode. You just switch FP on in the camera, leave the strobes on SC, and you can increase shutter speed to your heart's content (or until full power isn't enough from the strobes, at which point they beep). This is true on a tabletop, not yet in the water, though.

I'd have to test it with reflective material, but I don't have anything suitable here at the moment. In the meantime, I've taken the snoot adapter with me on a few dives. Sony 90mm Macro and Nauticam MFO-3, Snoot Sony 90mm Macro and Nauticam MFO-1, Snoot Sony 90mm Macro and Nauticam MFO-3, Snoot Sony 90mm Macro, and Weefine WFL05S +13, Snoot myDocuments.cannedSearch.zip

Hi guys, first post asking one advice… 🍻 I’ve recently buyed a Nauticam wwl1 lens.. . 👍 not b or c versions… the original that if I’m not wrong is optically identical to the B version but with the foam buoyancy collar… I’ve an old but good oly em1mk2 and I’m trying to figure out which m4/3 lens is better with the wwl1….😅🤷🏻‍♂️ As now I’ve the little Panasonic 12-32 already with Nauticam zoom gear… I need the flat port and the bayonet adapter for it… someone have used this combo(wwl1+12-32)?? Or there is something definitely better? Thanks a lot.. Fabio

Thank you. I am going to book Crystal Blue. I agree on the house reef point. I often have some new technique or piece of gear I want to learn or experiment with or some photo skill I want to learn or practice and being able to go out and on a shore dive and take my time doing that is easier than on a boat dive while the guide is finding fascinating stuff and/or I don't want to hold back the other divers. Of course, despite what I just said, I then often suffer FOMO and cannot pass on the boat dive. Living in a landlocked area, I cannot really do that stuff except on dive trips, so I am conflicted.

I like that the YS130 retains standard TTL capability. Not sure about the size of the thing and that digital panel, I would rather just have a dial with numbers. Are these made in Japan?

Ikelite Strobes: Have 4 Ikelite DS125 strobes (without battery) and 1 Ikelite DS50. All work and tested. Cost is $250 (USD) for each of the DS125 and $50 (USD) for the DS51. Freight is not included.

And the text that goes with it Bluewater PhotoSea & Sea YS-D130R Underwater Strobe ReviewSea & Sea's newest flagship strobe, the YS-D130R, is a powerful 130 ws wide angle strobe with a recycle time of 0.8 seconds at full power. This strobe is a Bluewater staff pick. I would love to see see quality of light compared (beam evenness) to the Retra Maxi and Max II, as well as tests that are from users.

@JohnD Having been to both (albeit 5x to Crystal Blue, and 1x to Buceo) I prefer Crystal Blue. Buceo is a larger (more spread out) resort with a little more on "flat" land, however if the reason you're diving Anilao is to shoot, then Crystal Blue runs a slightly better operation (starting with the camera room)., and then there is only one Mike Bartick, so Crystal Blue has that going for it as well. The house reef in front of Crystal Bliue is significantly better (other dive resorts dive it by boat regularly), and the dive operation runs very well. The food can be a bit repetitive, but you won't go hungry. The house reef discussion is an interesting one - when you're diving 3x by boat during the day, and then adding in either a night dive or blackwater dive, it's hard to squeeze in a house reef dive as well. I wouldn't miss a blackwater dive for diving the house reef (for example).

Out of the 2, I found Buceo to be nicer - better location, larger bungalows, and definitely more of a holiday feeling due to the space and location. Buceo's location is also great for Secret Bay though that's not a big differentiator. CBR has comfier rooms and very nice staff. Mike wasn't around when I was there. They have a nice classroom. Both are very well run dive operations. The food got old very quickly at CBR. To me this was, by far, the major downside of the resort. They tried to make it nice (soup, starter, mains, dessert etc), but it was just bland and uninspiring and I doubt I'll return because of that. Buceo had more options though you don't travel there specifically for the food either. Neither are great for vegetarians (I'm not but my partner is). Buceo was a bit more expensive, if my memory serves well.

I reused my old extension ring which was used for my WACP-C, the N100 30mm extension. 1.4x was also recommended but I wanted the 2x Sony TC to use for my Africa safari trip hence went with the 2x instead of buying both. I should've bought the used stuff from you haha. Joking aside I was able to get the 8-15 and metabones V second hand for quite cheap. In my case I wanted wider than WACP-C after going to Halmahera and not being able to fit in that giant school of barracudas. I was going to try 8-15 with no TC on the whale shark dive but forgot I don't have the zoom ring for this set up. Luckily it was wide enough even with 2x TC!

Hi @Adventurer , I believe you have Apollo III 2.0 strobes based on your previous posts, the data from @DreiFish mentions Apollo III, not Apollo III 2.0 - is this referring to the same model strobes?

Hi Dreifish, I think your Apollo III units where not functioning OK or your test setup was faulty in some way. I cannot confirm the way you trashed that strobe, having now shot this and the HF-1 for two years. I bought the HF-1 because of your disruptive Excel sheet back in the days. In fact my HF-1 does not deliver the power you claimed at high frame rates and does many blackout frames and light variation. You may want to reach out to your dealer or Marelux to get your strobes replaced.

Review of somesorts from Bluewater. I havent watched it yet.

with or without strobes? I use AWB and it's generally pretty close when shooting with strobes. I've shot a few subjects purely with ambient and also used AWB as I recall, it wasn't perfect but provided a good starting point for adjusting the raw files.