All Activity

Thank you Tim and Oskar. @Oskar - Retra UWT I have sent an email.

Are you sure you are taking a step forward with the C-50? The H.265 codecs do not seem superior to those of your A1 to me. The RAW takes up a huge amount of space, and some time ago I downloaded some files from the Canon Europe website and they did not exactly blow me away. Very high noise at high ISOs that requires work in post-production. The RAW files from the Nikon ZR were a whole different world. Beautiful but too extreme.

Hi, please copy/paste your issue to our email: [email protected] This is by far the fastest and the most reliable way of getting any issue resolved with any Retra product. P.S.: sounds like a sensor malfunction, there are potential temporary workarounds.

I think that's the over-heating warning I pulled this off ChatGPT: This happens when: shooting long rapid bursts, using high power repeatedly, using strong modeling/pilot light, or in warm water/air conditions. The strobe will automatically: reduce flash power, limit the pilot light, or temporarily stop normal operation to protect internal components. What to do: stop firing for a minute or two, turn down pilot light brightness, reduce burst shooting, let the strobe cool in the water. Once temperature drops, the blinking should stop automatically. Retra specifically recommends shooting in intervals with 30–60 second pauses if you’re pushing the strobe hard. Oskar might well chip-in.......

Thanks a lot for your feedback, really appreciated. I totally see your point about the C50. I had also been looking closely at the new 20-50 PZ lens, especially for use with the WACP. For now Nauticam still doesn’t seem to know if it will be officially compatible with the WACP setup. To be honest I’m not a huge fan of the RF 24-50 that I currently use with my WACP. It works, but I really think the new 20-50 L series could deliver much better image quality and a more interesting range underwater. I also agree with you about the photo side of things. Since switching to the R5C I actually shoot a lot more stills than before, but I mostly work with video lights so the lack of shutter/flash sync wouldn’t affect me too much. I guess that’s probably the real issue on your side if you travel wanting a true hybrid setup. And honestly, I also use the R5C a lot topside and it’s such a joy to work with. Still one of my favorite hybrid cameras overall.

I just had a dive where one of my Retra Pro X started flashing red and yellow on the indicator on the back. It was working fine when I tested before leaving Home. I thought it was a flood, but it isnt. I tried changing the batteries, but it is the same. If I Press the test button right after I turn it on, it gives a flash like it should, but then it starts again with the red/yellow flashing. Has anybody else experienced this? And most important, know what to do?😀

USB-C PD is some sort of a IC-controlled way to power a device as there are a few handshakes between power source and IC inside the camera to ajust volt and currents. It's super risky to assume you can power a USB-C port without following that protocol. There are circuits that connects on li-ion or li-po batteries or whatever types of power source into USB-C PD compatible outputs. They won't fry the camera and batteries won't burn and they are just a few dollars/euros.

Do you know what the voltage limits are for your camera? I found this about A7SIII power bank requirements: Seems like it will accept higher voltages and Sony recommend 9V #A power banks and won't run the camera without battery unless it gets a handshake to show it is getting the exact voltage it wants to run the camera, but should supplement the battery if it's in place with a lesser power bank. So two parallel -two series 14500 batteries in holders (4 total) - about AA size would give you 2000 mAhr at 7.4V or 14.8 Whrs, just need to wire some holders to a USB-C cable and not worry about electronics too much and charge them in an external charger. you could use a velcro tie wrap to keep the batteries in and velcro padding on as needed. Might be a good option if you had the space. Nitecore has 1000 mAhr 14500 batteries.

I was using the overall buoyancy setup i use with the Retra Maxi strobes. So it would be pretty negative with the Backscatters. The HF-1 float fully negated the weight of that strobe so the rig ended up much lighter. I loosened the arm and it would float around freely. The Atom was still negative by 150grams or so and and the rig was noticably unbalanced. I will print a second float for the 2nd HF-1 and do another dive with the balanced setup.

Also very interesting discussion about Color Options for gopro log Oficial LUT gopro Thatcher DTCL Xtremestuff Python Lut

Gopro has published white paper about GP-Log2 & Logarithmic Exposure. https://gopro.github.io/labs/log/ They also create a LUT generator https://gopro.github.io/labs/gplog2/

Bumping this thread, I am now the owner of a Nauticam NA-A1 housing and future owner of an A7SIII. The A1 housing does have space for a flash trigger which I won't use, and I'd be really really interested in practical (and safe) battery options for the camera, since I will be shooting video. I've considered the USB charger bulkhead, but currently have an HDMI bulkhead on the housing's M16 port, and will have a screen at some point in the near future, so I'm really interested in in-housing battery solutions Has anyone managed to find a system that works and doesn't fry cameras too often? Thanks!

How did it “feel” in water (balance, etc.) vs no collar and more traditional arm floatation?

Welcome, me to recently back from the Maldives.

A review about the older manual focus version came out: https://opticallimits.com/nikon/laowa-8-15mm-f-2-8-ff-zoom-fisheye-review/

If you like R5C you will love C50 - for video that is. I got real GAS about it a month ago when A1 overheated in hot Malpelo (!!wtf) waters and also was running out of battery when filming 8k. This C50 Nauticam housing checks all the boxes. Lens choice may be personal issue but for me the 20-50 PZ either behind dome or if going wide in combination with WACP-C is just perfect. BUT - sadly for me - no shutter no flash. And as I travel to dive and take both photo and video … But since you look for a video camera it’s perfect. Clog2, cinema OS, canon colors. Will not overheat. Will last whole day. Perfect.

It is interesting to note that even though this lens and the Canon RF100 achieve 1.4x magnification, when you add on wet lens they only achieve minimal gains in magnification over what you would get with the 1:1 lens they replaced. The Canon RF 100 with SMC-3 achieves 2.3x with 30-100mm working distance while the Canon EF 100mm macro gets 2.2x with 46-97mm working distance. The Sony 100mm gets 2.4x with 34-100mm while 90mm macro gets 2.3x with 47-103mm. This is due to the lens reducing focal length to focus in closer, this is a feature of all internal focus macro lenses and becomes particularly prominent as the magnification increases. You might initially think you'd get much more, but the shorter focal length means the power of the SMC-3 or any other wet lens is a lot lower and the peak magnification is achieved at a shorter working distance. It would seem based on theBackscatter review that a 1.4x is a decent option if you were chasing small skittish fish with Sony 100mm macro

I dove today with an HF-1 + Float and Atom with Snoot. The HF-1 was weightless and the Atom was negative. Guess I need a float for that now. The float seemed to work well with no obvious water intrusion. I'll weigh it in the morning after its dried out more to be sure. Sporting a 105mm macro lens I came across a big GPO out in the open: I shot from about 1.5 meters back and opened up to f5 iso400 to get something more than an eyeball in frame!

Asking $150 for the set, in good condition the glass has no scratches. Comes with Mount for housing (67 thread I believe) and a float arm mount which I never used. Buyer paying PayPal GS 3% fee and shipping. Located in the USA and prefer to ship in the USA only. Cross Posted

Great! Please keep me updated. Thanks.

Selling my Nauticam NA-502 Monitor Housing and SmallHD 502 Monitor. It has a few issues. The HDMI cable needs to be replaced. The leak detector needs to be rewired but should function when corrected. In its current state it continuously sounds an alarm. $1000 + shipping Items Included: NA502 Housing 502 SmallHD Monitor 6 LP-6 batteries (unit takes 2) 2 LP-6 battery chargers Barely function HDMI M16 bulkhead M24 to M16 adapter Small micro HDMI