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Just a note to tie off this thread with a resolution in case others encounter same issue. It turned out to be the lens needing a firmware update. That was a new one for me, that the lens itself had its own firmware seperate from the camera. But updating that with the OM software solved the issues and it now works great.

I passed through Cabo SJD last week on my way to Magdalena Bay. I took my chances at customs and pressed the button for a Green Light! Avoid a minimum $1000 hit. A few others on the trip got screened and screwed over for the tax, but fortunately had P&S system with low value so only payed about $95. I am using my Z8 with 8-15mm FE.

Upgrading to larger tray (32cm) from flex-arm to fit the divevolk case. The gopro 13 + AOI UWL-03 will be used for wide-angle video (cold shoe) The iphone will be primary for super-Macro video Haven't decide about: Macro Lens (67mm) Flexible/Gorilla Tripod

Seems like maybe you could just stretch some Panty Hose over the unit and rubber band it at both ends. The hose material would be a very fine filter to keep the chunky bits out of the optics.

Very cool Peter! I think we did Verde Island the day before your group went over.

Found this shrimp in the finger coral at Koloko outside Honokohau Harbor, Kailua-Kona, HI. Any help on this one? Resolution reduction lost hair detail on the front claws.

Thanks and no problem

Wow, thanks Would you mind if I move this thread in the DIY section with a proper title?

I have been mostly using the AOI RC strobes for most of my shooting. The very cool thing about the MF series is the remote triggering, but I don't use it much. The battery situation that would be ideal is if they both used the same damn batteries. Bill

But it's obvious I meant that engineering and design, particularly in context of size, has come a very long way. Meaning if other modern products can get smaller and contain more features, then the back scatter flash can. That is sometimes true, but not obvious. In our world of continuous glucose monitoring it took 2 companies (with essentially infinite money) more than 4 years to make the device about 15% smaller. And one of them paid Google to do it for them. For optical things there is no Moore's law so making very small strobes very bright is still difficult. I don't know how much engineering is at AOI (I think they make the strobes) but I suspect it wasn't on Backscatter's list of most important features. Bill

Do you prefer the MF2's to the AOI Q1s for some (macro?) tasks?

The question is if I have a couple of MF2 and speak olympus not Sony should I buy one? Not obvious that it is a big difference. Bill

Well, I'm not absolutely convinced but I've just bought a pair of these AOI UIS p1. The reason is because I have just paid 500 euros for repair my two Subtronic 160 pro Alpha, one of them had little cracks in the rear plate, so the plate bends over and the cables inside touch each other. It happened to me twice, the other one had a crack in the dome, the manufacturer says this is the cause of failing, I never saw the crack and the strobe wasn't flooded. Repairing plus shipping 500 euros, and thanks god I can repair their dedicated batteries, 250 euros each. I haven't bought Retra because I don't really like their battery system, last time I tried to cross the egiptian border with 32 AA batteries I had to argue with the officers. And 4000 euros for the pair is too much in my opinion, even that I have used the Retra pros a few times and their are really great. And finally these AOI, I have contact the manufacturer and the assistance is great, I have contact Ocean-Photos, their dealer in Spain and their assistance have been great, they have it in stock and I will recieve them on monday. And like everything can broke I asked them how is it going when this happens, the dealer told me that they give me the instructions for sending and i do myself. This makes the time for servicing a lot shorter, even I don't like to send to Asia, and the customs and everything, it's "only" 1800 euros and batteries that I can get easily and cheap from Amazon or any other good store. So with the two Subtronic and the two AOI it would be enough to dive with two strobes every time I dive, normally twice a week and a a fifteen days dive trip every year.

Pair of Nauticam 90×170mm carbon fiber/aluminum float arms, providing ~450g of buoyancy each. Lightly used and in excellent shape with only minor cosmetic scratches. I bought these new from Reef Photo and Video in Florida, but after upgrading to heavier video lights, I needed larger buoyancy arms. No cracks, corrosion, or functional issues. $250 for the pair + shipping (from the USA)

The disadvantage is that it is a fixed setup, i.e., it is not possible to change lenses underwater. I have one sock for 100 + 160 and another sock with a larger opening for 130. I usually bring it to the location ready and only disconnected EMWL from the housing. At the location, I just attach the bayonet, pull the rubber band over the flat port, and fill it with settled drinking water. I can dive with it all day long and the water inside will stay in. Once the setup is submerged, the water doesn't leak out.

Several people have asked me about this in the past, so I tried to summarize it in this simple HOWTO. I am adding it as images ...

Hi all I see that Seacam has just launched tonight a new type of water contact optic seems it is designed to work with rectilinear lenses (16-35 range) and designed to give the same performance as in air. It uses an Ivanoff-Rebikoff lens system Called the Optical Precision Port it uses what looks like a relatively small flat port and a correction lens that is screwed in the front filter threads. Seems like it is very compact and travel friendly, though perhaps not particularly wallet friendly. Here is a link to their website, scroll down and click on the link "12 month practical test for some more details on the optics." A friend of mine Don Silcock did the field testing. https://www.seacam.com/de/optical-precision-port/ Believe Zeiss many years ago developed something similar for the UW hassleblad system.

Agree it has a good chance of working - we'll wait and see what the housing makers do - maybe a R6 II user will take a chance and try a MkIII in their housing for us?

Yes, I'm a bit in hurry this period. I promised to Romik to add another column. I will do. Keep in account that 99% are 1080p panels that accept 4K input signal.

Found it 🤦‍♂️ https://waterpixels.net/forums/topic/2417-list-of-underwater-monitors/?&do=getNewComment

Thanks Davide, for the amazing compilation! Do you mind adding a column to show the monitors resolution. The nits values are nice but an important information might also, if they do 720HD, 1080HD or even 4K.

Somebody tried to make a recent underwater monitor market comparision table, but I do seem to find it anymore in the forums? 🤔

I have the impression, this is just a slight perspective shift resulting from two different photos taken. Putting myself in Canon's product management shoes, I would try to utilise the same body tooling + parts when the design change and upgrades are all internal. So I conclude the camera body is very likely to fit in all existing R6 II underwater housings in the market. Let's wait and see for the confirmation.

Yes, that's correct! For the 100mm lens alone: Nauticam N100 to N120 35.5mm Port Adaptor + Nauticam N120 Macro Port 87 For the 100mm lens + TC2.0: Nauticam N100 to N120 35.5mm Port Adaptor + Nauticam N120 Extension Ring 25 + Nauticam N120 Macro Port 87