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If you are going to the trouble, definitely replace the circlip as Dave suggests and also replace the springs. You need to lubricate everything as well, the o-rings need a little more grease than your main o-ring as I understand it as it is never replaced until the next service. There's not much in the way of guides on how to do this out there, though Ikelite has a video for their housings.

Either will work. Perhaps someone has one they can spare.

The insta360 ace pro 2 has underwater Mode but no WB lock.. and its only 8 bit The dji action 6 has scuba mode and QRS button that can be personalize to lock white balance underwater The Gopro 13 has gopro labs firmware and its possible to create permanent preset for WB lock, bitrate up to 200Mbps and new feature called DIVE=1 that remove underwater distortion, dont forget to Keep Denoise settings at low to avoid a soft video. The Gopro 13 also has 5.3k mode with resolution of 5312 x 2988, perfect for 16:9 or 9:16 for media viewing for later crop the video without any loss of quality. Optional With Gopro 11 it was necessary to use Wide Color gamut (wide=1) + oMLOGB=400 to get GP-log Profile lookalike. But on the Gopro 12/ 13 you can simply use Gp-Log + wide=1 for more details, and later a specific LUT to convert back to Rec709 during color correction. Basically Wide color gamut + oMLOGB=400 are able to push dynamic range and get better details in dark shadows, but is also recommended to apply NR01=1 (permanent disable denoise but more details) and later remove noise in post-production with Neat video 6 or davinci resolve studio (both paid options) ps: this hacks can be applied permanently using QR code once, Optional 2 Wide angle lens from AOI UWL-03 are great upgrade for any of the action cameras above. Ps: The insta360 or DJI can be an easy underwater actions cams for the untrained eye, or the average joe for viewing in small smartphone screen, especially if you do shallow dives with natural lighting their color sensors accuracy can be enough for some people, but has soon you pass certain depths you are limited by firmware, Gopro labs unlock that limit.

Zoom gear for Sigma AF10-20mm F4~5.6 EX DC HSM Nikonlens. Never used, gear is in pristine condition. Price: $100 The zoom gear can be used on following port configurations: a) use with extension ring 20 and 8.5' fisheye port b) use with extension ring 60 and 6' dome port c) use with extension ring 20 and 8.5' white balance port Dimension: 102 mm x 79 mm x 11 mm Weight: 77g / 6g Construction: Anodized aluminum alloy & Nylon

Used on 1 dive trip. This focus ring is in pristine condition. My husband switched cameras after this dive trip and it hasn't been used since. Product Specifications: Model: Nauticam C100IS-F Focus Gear SKU: #19523 Type: Focus Gear Compatible Lens: Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM Dimensions: DIA 102.0mm × 67.9mm Price: $100

I remove the circlips with a chopstick. Just push it off the shaft. I recommend getting new clips and don't reuse the old ones. They can bend and deform when removed and might not hold as securely upon reuse.

I have just a hard button and a knob with no levers involved. Let's see if I dare 🤪

Did you see/experience any improvement in the focus department?

I am changing my mind, and thinking about a trip there (although probably liveaboard based) - does anyone remember how strict the local domestic airline (maldivian) was with carry on luggage? There are on the website strict carryon restrictions (5kg) ..

Hi, definitely no rocket science. If you have a little knowledge in mechanics, be a DIY & have the right tools it shouldn`t be a problem. Just be organized if you dismantle all buttons/wheels/levers at same time, so you know they are all on the right position when you reassemble. I did this on different housing brands (Patima C7070, Hugy D300, Sealux flash housing Nikon SB800, Seacam housing D800, Nauticam housing D850) I haved used and all worked fine after reassemble. SIngle buttons and wheels are never a problem. Just be careful with levers. Some brands are easy and they always in the right position as they mechanical fit only in one position. Some brands you can. f.e. move the levers on the shaft. So it`s always a good idea to mark the position with a pen before dismantling. Will save you a lot of time when you reassemble. Photos also help a lot. Br Markus

Well you already own the RF14-35 and a 8.5inch dome?!? Search no further! Just combine this excellent underwater lens with your dome (superdome had 9inch). Also the lightweight acrylic dome will be much more rewarding for split shots. Looks like you have everything you need right in front of you. Just get a zoom gear for the 14-35 and try to measure down the the perfect extension Ring with dome data and entrance pupil position on optical bench hub.

Hi, I updated it, everything is working fine for me, did a lot of macro (not underwater) ...

True, I second this! The very bad MFD of the 24-50 lens makes it also a pain in the .. underwater. When you are used to be able to focus right up onto the dome this becomes a real downer, as you cannot get really close without plugging diopters into the system. Generally the WWL and WAPC are highly overrated and will not give you better optical performance than your Canon EF 8-15mm fisheye, even when combined with 1.4x or 2.0x teleconverters. You already own the best for super wide. Your dome choice should be taken very carefully so. Closely checking my files from 2 years diving with this rig I now find that my shots with the compact 140 fisheye dome are better that those with a superdome 9inch sized dome. You really need a full sphere for this. It might be worthwhile to get an adapter for your old Seacam Fisheye dome, if you own one. Having said all the above. I shoot Canon RF and instead of Nauticam, I use a Marelux housing with which I am very pleased. I think it‘s the better Nauticam with some improvements in the small details.

FOR SALE – Sony A7R III Setup - Perfect Condition! I am selling the following items, all in perfect working and cosmetic condition: Isotta Housing for Sony Alpha A7 III & A7R III - Price: €2,200 + manual trigger and moisture/leak sensor Sony A7R III A - Price: €1,300 Sony FE 28mm f/2 + Sony Fisheye Converter - Price: €300 Nauticam WWL-1 - Price: €950 + float collar, hard lens cap, and neoprene lens cap Sony FE 28–60mm f/4–5.6 + focus ring Included as a gift with any of the above purchases All items are well cared for and in excellent condition. Bundle deals possible—make an offer! More photos available on request. Any questions, just ask. Happy to ship internationally.

We talked about how often to service the housing and its price... But has any DIY hero ever tried to change the o-rings on a single button or a wheel? I remember seeing it done once on a Nauticam housing, and it didn't seem like rocket science to me. Provided you have the right spare parts and tools. It seems to me that once the micro circlip/e-clip is removed, the mechanism just slides out. I'm aware that different brands have different designs. Am I crazy?

There have been various posts talking about the pros and cons of the various combinations of lenses and Nauticam wet optics as well as comparing performance of rectilinear lenses behind various domes. Few points you might consider: The recommended dome for the Canon 8-15 in Nauticam is the 140mm dome. Fisheyes are much less sensitive to dome size compared to rectilinear lenses and smaller dome sizes help with getting closer to take CFWA shots. You can even use the 100mm Zen dome with the 8-15, though corner quality might take a small hit. There is an extensive set of tests of various Canon optics in this post: It tests the Canon 24-50 behind the WWL and doesn't have good things to say about it. The Nikon 24-50/WWL-C combination is generally rated quite well, however the Canon 24-50 kit lens seems to be significantly poorer in optical quality. Now this is with the WWL-C, however I recall other posts stating there is not much to pick between the WWL and WACP-C with other lenses. Bear in mind too that the 24-50 needs to zoom into 28mm to remove vignetting with the WWL-1 - the WWL-C is designed for 24mm lenses. Rectilinear lenses generally require big domes, though some of the newer lenses that focus much closer work well with the 180mm dome. They lack the barrel distortion which enlarges the subject in the centre making fisheye images pop. On the subject of teleconverters with the Canon 8-15 you mention the Sony 1.4x/2x with the Canon 8-15, these work because they place the Metabones adapter between the teleconverter and the 8-15. Optical quality is better than using the Kenko 1.4x. It needs this order of assembly as the nose of the 1.4x fits inside the the empty spacer of the Metabones adapter. In this case the metabones acts like a 22mm spacer. In theory you could use the a RF 1.4x- Canon RF-EF -Canon 8-15, but the RF-EF won't work with an RF 1.4x. In theory again a Canon RF-EF-Canon EF 1.4x- aftermarket EF 12mm or 20mm extension tube- Canon 8-15 might work, but you'd need to test it. In general I would say the Canon 8-15 is an exceptionally sharp lens and very hard to beat behind a dome as fisheyes naturally work well behind domes and is a great solution if you don't need extra reach. The last point is that comparing diagonal field of view is a little misleading - you normally don't place subjects on the diagonal and fisheye lenses have the most stretching of the field in the corners. The WACP/WWL is like a zoomed in fisheye lens in terms of barrel distortion present. The horizontal field of a 180° (nominal) diagonal fisheye is about 144° while a WWL with 130° diagonal field has about a 106° horizontal field. The 8-15 is reported to achieve 175° diagonal field. This table compares horizontal and diagonal fields: Horizontal Diagonal Rect Equiv 15mm fisheye 141 175 4.5 15mm x 1.4 97 118 16 WACP at 28mm 106 130 13.5 WACP at 80mm 44.7 54 42 The Rectilinear equivalent is the focal length of a rectilinear lens with the same horizontal field. You can compare the field you would get from a Canon 8-15 with 14mm FF equivalent rectilinear here, it's on m43 sensor so the comparison is the 8-15 at 8mm and the 7-14 at 7mm. This is equivalent to the 8-15 at 15mm and 14mm rectilinear on full frame.

I can easily design one. Do you have the lens? If so message me and I'll ask you for a couple of dimensions and send you a model to try. I like flushing out my collection so I can share these gears to the community.

Hi, has anyone designed a Nauticam Focus Gear for the Nikon Z 50mm MC Macro Lens?

DOF (in general) goes down as the square of the magnification (with several aproximations) so the CMC 2 will be a bunch better. But whether or not it is to your liking is a question. Bill

Welcome from another Victoria based diver!

Thank you, Everyone! Really appreciate the suggestions and information. At this stage, I've done all I can do with it so looks like I'll be needing to replace it. There's definitely something wrong in there 🙃 Also talked with Reef and they've explained how to use it without the vacuum until the new part arrives, so there are options.

Hello, as a user of a Canon R5 and a newcomer here in the forum (though I've been with wetpixel for many years), I'm currently switching from Seacam to Nauticam and my main question is about wide-angle - what else 😁. For many years I photographed with the Canon EF 8-15/4 (often in combination with a Kenko 1.4x TC) behind a superdome or the small fisheye macro port (CFWA). Now I would like to photograph with even better corner performance and more compact dimensions in the future, and therefore I was considering the Nauticam WACP-C. Unfortunately, I can't find any informative reviews and/or images online about the best(!) camera/lens combination for Canon FF mirrorless cameras. The RF 24-50 is recommended, but I'd like to know if, for example, the Canon RF 15-30 STM might offer better image quality (it only has 85° at the long end), or if an older adapted EF lens (e.g., the 28-80) would be advisable (it has 54° at the long end compared to the RF 24-50's 81°, so it would be much more versatile). Or would I ultimately achieve comparable image quality with my old 8-15/4 lens in combination with the Kenko 1.4x TC? I'd probably have to stop down significantly more to avoid corner softness, even behind a super dome. I also read here in the forum about the combination of the EF 8-15/4 with a 2x TC on a Sony, but I don't know if that works with Canon. I know that the WACP-1 has up to 1 stop better image quality than the WACP-C (probably only visible in the corners), but the WACP-1 is simply too heavy - and a little bit too expensive for me as well. Currently, I only own a Nauticam 8.5" Acrylic Dome Port (SKU # 18802) that came with the 2nd hand housing, which I could use with my Canon 8-15/4. However, I don't know if the image quality would be acceptable. And btw: is there a WA lens recommended to the 8.5" Acrylic Dome? Or does anyone have completely different considerations regarding excellent WA IQ? Btw: I own a RF 14-35/4 and still have the EF 8-15/4, of course. I'll definitely buy a Super Dome later at least for split or wreck shots... well, and I read here in the forum that a 140mm Nauticam dome is hardly recommended for the 8-15/4. I would be grateful for any helpful answers! Best regards, Wahrmut

Hey Wahrmut! Great to have you with his and welcome to your new home. Yep, lots of recovering former Wetpixelers here - as I'm sure you will see. Enjoy the forum! Best wishes

Thank you I didn't know this site...