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A buddy just got one for his XT4, not many companies doing Fuji housings. He's extremely impressed.

Even slightly older mirrorless are pretty cheap. If I could get $600 for this EM5MK2 and housing I'd be happy. Instead I think it'll become a loaner camera.

I think Bill sums it up nicely!

The Marelux Aquista 135D ( D meaning direct mount like the WACP line ) has a max diagonal field of view of 135 degrees on full frame with a FF lens set at around 26-28mm. It will have anti-corrosion and anti-reflective coatings, it uses the Marelux serious 5 port mount, which means extensions and port adapters can be used. depth rated to 100 meters and will retail for $2599.00. I have not yet seen or used the lens but will have it in house by April if all goes well. This design will allow for a greater number of lenses to be used than for the Aquista 110 & 130 designs that mount onto a flat 67mm port. A list of lenses should be coming soon and I will post when they are released.

I have been trying to sell a 7D MII Nauticam for a year. Best bet is to donate it to someone like the Heroes of the Sea (from the Rocio del Mar) or to a local dive club or sell it really cheap to a young diver/photographer starting out. I did get an offer for the camera plus housing for like $400 (with ports but no lenses) and said sorry but not worth packing it up. Ended up donating it. Bill

This video isn't underwater, but anybody will identify with the antics of sea otter moms and pups. These pups are about ready to go off on their own, and are far more interactive than just born youngsters whom we filmed previously. Here's the link:

Welllll, it was probably the worst dive trip that I have been on. We were originally promised three dives per day (I prefer 4 or 5 dives a day, but OK), but when we got there, we were told that in fact, we were only going to get two dives per day. Then, we got high winds out of the north, which caused small craft warnings and the harbor was closed, so we lost three of the five days of diving. We were able to convince them to dive on Friday, since our plane left late on Saturday. So, we eventually got a total of six dives. Cozumel, for me, is not terribly interesting diving since I love macro shooting and with the currents and drift dives, macro is hard. Then, coming back we had to re-route our flights due to the snow storms in Charlotte, North Carolina, and they managed to lose all of our luggage in the process. It has finally arrived, though, and everything was intact. That said, I mostly upgraded from the GH5 to the GH7 for the improved autofocus, and so far I must say that I am impressed. It really does appear to be significantly improved. I will be going to Roatan in March, where I will be able to test it on macro subjects and really give it a work out, but for now I am impressed. Thanks for asking!

It's probably this one: $125 for acrylic Inon Dome Lens Unit IIIA – Reef Photo & Video Inon: Looks like it available in acrylic or glass INON Dome Lens Unit III [Features]

Do you happen to have a link with price? And do you happen to know what the curvature of the dome is?

I saw this on Social. Looks like a competition for WACP. But which one I am not sure. MareluxAquista 135D Wide Angle LensAquista 135D Wide Angle Lens Anyone have any further information on it? @Phil Rudin - have you used this? Or do you know when a port chart for it is coming out?

If you intend to pursue that road and cannot get your hands on a cheap 2nd hand ZEN dome from the example above, I suggest everyone to take a look at INONs very affordable small glas dome. You will need to get an adapter made, if you do not shoot their INON X-2 housing. *the sunshade is removable

I have loads of previous camera gear customers, travel guests and fellow photographers in similar situations......I share insights balancing how much you've used your gear versus benefits of changing systems. Everyone's budget is different plus the actual amount of intended use....Everyone should ask themselves: How many dives / trips per year are you REALLY going to be able to do? A friend has the exact same system as Kristin but hasn't been able to travel and dive for a few years. She owns the Nauticam 8" GLASS dome port purchased for one Grand Cayman photo trip plus other Nauticam pieces. Ports like those are probably the most valuable items if they fit current mirrorless Nauticam housings. The Canon 7D MK II while a fine camera (I used a pair borrowed for a good paying photo job photographing swimming techniques a few years back) but also is on the list of EOL (End Of Life) for any service coming up January 2027. This in my opinion is another reason to move into mirrorless these days. I find it interesting how much people place in physical objects.......Maybe I'm the outlier as I just view cameras, housings , strobes, etc. as tools to have fun and create images or videos you're happy with........ Like Tim I've always sold then bought different items over decades. But when I make the move I move it all !!!! Being a Canon shooter for decades when changing from dSLR for mirrorless I sold all my EF / EF-S stuff........Newer mount lenses are getting cheaper and sharper and simply work better on newer models IMHO.....I think I've actually MADE $$$$ ditching EF / EF-S glass for new RF / RF-S lenses. A friend who had a few Canon L lenses put money in his pocket and still bought a new Nauticam mirrorless package..... The only thing I'd ever keep might be batteries if they'll fit a new camera model...... Several friends who had Canon EOS M cameras recently moved to the Canon R10 which uses the same Canon NB-17L batteries. In the US www.mpb.com or www.keh.com will give you instant quotes as long as you accurately list your item's condition. MPB even pays for Fedex TWO day shipping to them. If they have any small dispute they email you and you can get your items back or accept their adjustment. It's usually minor $$$ and some have even had them pay a bit more! For me and many friends it's been seamless and quick without auctions, listing fees and hassles......Sadly, I don't know of any similar large outfit for UW hardware :( As others have mentioned most of your $$$$ will be the camera(s) and lenses as there are tons more surface shooters than UW shooters in the world. Finally, as Kristin has found out even with limitations of battery life or settings sometimes going down to smaller systems like a TG7 can be satisfying too even if just an interim move....... Good luck to all if contemplating changing systems :) David Haas

It seems a lot of value for the money. Which WA lens do you plan to use with it? I saw a small lens choice assortment on their website. They have a m43 housing too but it's a mistery which lens you can use on it. Thanks

From the chemical point of view, there is a huge difference between Cola and Baking Soda. Cola contains an inorganic acid, namely phosphoric acid, and has a pH of ~ 2.5. Bakery Soda is basic, ph of ~11.5. If modern lithium-batteries leak, when combined with water or air humidity, hydrofluoric acid can be formed. This acid cannot be neutralized with another acid (Cola), but with bases. I would, therefore, strongly recommend Baking Soda, followed by alcohol or, as a compromise, distilled water. Don't underestimate the effect of cola, as it can corrode many metals upon contact! Stay dry! Jens

Hi Kristin Over the last 25 years I've bought and sold more housing/cameras than is sane. As Chris says, it's not a happy process even when, as in each case for me, the camera and housing were in perfect condition and even when only one generation old. If you get 40% of the original value, by my experience, you have done incredibly well. 25%-30% seemed the norm. But then maybe I'm a lousy salesman. I think there comes a point where no matter how good the technology, it is way better than an individual's ability to use it. I'm a very happy owner of a Nikon D500/Subal housing which I have been using since 2017. Old technology for sure but, I have to ask myself, is there anything that this system stops me from doing or frustrates me? Ideally, yes, I'd love to have in-viewfinder review which mirrorless provides (I shoot a lot of macro/snoot so not moving my eye from the viewfinder would be great). But the cost of that one small upgrade would be crazy: new body, new housing - I suspect new lenses: $10k. Really? I'm amongst the worst when it comes to a love of new, shiny toys. But there comes a point where my better angel screams, "you are kidding, right?"

As I understand things Coca Cola is not a routine cleanup medium, I have seen people suggest using it after a Li-ion battery has been flooded and the battery compartment is full of sea water mixed with battery innards, The blend of sea water and the internal components of a Li-ion is going to be far worse than Coca Cola. The active ingredient of coke is phosphoric acid, that's why it makes tarnished coins look like new. I don't think I would put it a battery compartment unless I had a flood. You do need to consider what the strobe is made from - plastic strobes could be harmed by hydrocarbon solvents used in some contact cleaners, likewise just pouring isopropyl alcohol in is not advisable as it may react with some plastics. There was a post some years back with advice from Reef photo about what could happen to a flooded INON strobe, they said that plastic used in INONs was strong but not chemically resistant. Isopropyl should only be applied to contacts with a Q tip not poured in. IMO Coca cola would do less damage than alcohol - plastic is generally inherently resistant to acids especially relatively mild ones like phosphoric.

I think the value of something that old is just not there, even one generation old gear sells for very little. You might get lucky and get some $$ or not. I see a couple of options, Get it serviced and keep using it. Find a low actuation body as a backup. Retire it and get another system you could see what was available second hand and if you get a complete system and don't try to keep using your lenses it's probably easier to find something you like. Retire it and buy a new housing and body and try to salvage your lenses and ports. Adapting your macro lens to mirrorless may not be so great in performance though??

Thank you all again for this great advice...👍 I will take the fiberglass stick plus isopropylalcohol as first treatment and, if this is not enough, antioxidant cleaner and even coca cola... (I should add that Backscatter definitely does not recommend to use contacts cleaner and/ore coke, but what can we do when the milder treatments fail (Sevag from BS service department writes: "...I would strongly advise against using Coca Cola or anything other than either pure fresh water or isopropyl alcohol on any strobe equipment...")?)... The DeOxid Gold, recommended by Dave, is very expensive here in Europe (about 50 Euros), I found a cheaper product (produced in EU), I hope that it will work equally well: https://www.amazon.de/Kontakt-Chemie-KONTAKT-70004-AA-Kontaktreiniger/dp/B004SGL2T0/ref=ast_sto_dp_puis

Not too long back I was asking around about the Seafrogs aluminum housings because I was having a hard time finding anyone who actually was using one. Well I was only make to find one or two YouTube videos showcasing them But not a lot of info. So what do I do… I jump in both feet! I bought the SF10009 housing for my Sony a7r IV! It cannot the 230mm glass done, 55mm extension ring together as a package and for $138 more I added the flat port for my Sony 90mm lens. I also bought their cheap strobe trigger just in case I could not get a ttl trigger for it (more on that soon but spoiler alert, it looks like my best option will be a TRT s-turtle) All in the price of the entire setup was 2/3 the cost of the Nauticam housing alone! It arrived a little over a week ago and I did a long unboxing video going over my first impressions (yeah I’m definitely not a salesperson) and if you need some bedtime viewing or something to watch while getting your teeth pulled, feel free to check it out😂 On top of all this I actually had to do some ice diving with work so I took it along with me. This will be coming up in a much shorter YouTube video soon. Let’s just say no issues with the thermal differences it went through. My impression of the Seafrogs SF10009 housing… worth the money I spent on it! If you have any questions please feel free to send them My way. I enjoy helping anyone out that I can. Cheers.

I suspect your best bet is trade it in at a camera shop and use the credit for you next camera. Most big camera stores trade in second hand gear - you'll at least get something for it. If you were moving system and not going for another Canon then you could certainly also trade in any canon lenses which do hold some value. But as an underwater package Im not sure there would be much of a market.

I cannot speak for how it adapts to the Nauticam ports yet but hopefully in the near future as I expect to bring my work camera back home sometime here. What I can say is the levers and buttons have a fantastic feel to them. They are all super smooth and function absolutely amazing. I have taken the empty housing on an ice dive with me now, exposing it to temperatures from 20°C to -3°C air temperatures and then 3°C water temperatures. It worked flawlessly. I had some concerns about thermal shock given past reports of Seafrogs have not the higher quality. Well I have no concerns now. I am very impressed with the fit and finish of this housing. I did create an unboxing video (it’s not the greatest because I’m really not much of a salesman) and posted it on a YouTube channel. It has my first impressions upon opening the boxes. I will say this, I’m happy with my purchase and for half the cost of a Nauticam, it’s gonna fund my next trip! https://youtu.be/SH_JM09_Uxw?si=SRQio_drxZ1zYRLR

I have read that. Therefore, I wrote “also”. I have added a visual to confirm what has been written.

For not much more than servicing your existing housing you could probably get into a used mirrorless set-up, especially something M4/3. That would offer some of the versatility of the TG7 and stay fairly compact. You can also adapt Canon lenses fairly well. The used market cuts both ways in terms of value and so an older crop DSLR probably won't net you a ton, especially if it's overdue for a service.

The adapter just arrived today and I can confirm it works perfectly with the AOI flip holder and the CMC-1 - the flip's locking mecanism doesn't get in the way like it does with the large adapter, and I can now remove the o-ring I was using as a spacer. This adapter was designed for the SMC-1, but I think most Nauticam wet diopters share the same design (Nauticam only lists the SMC-1, but Backscatter lists a bunch of compatible Nauticam diopters on the website, MFO, CMC, SMC, etc)