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I remember correpondence with Backscatter where they wrote me that the flash will shut off, when used with batteries that do not allow to draw a minimum of current, like e.g. 20A... Who knows what the outcome could be when inserting different kind of batteries, some with, some without built in protection circuits (maybe of different kind)? A shut off of the flash might be the least problem... => I fear that beeing too stingy can cost a lot more money in the end (At least the price of purchasing multiple different batteries before buying the right ones; not to speak about broken equipment). At the best one could save a couple of Euros, by taking the risk. This is opposed by total costs of many thousands of Euros for the entire rig... Wolfgang

From what I understood the Xtar 21700 5000mAh 10A (which are the ones that came with my Backscatter MW4300) are build around a Samsung INR21700-50E cell which has the following characteristics: https://www.18650batterystore.com/products/samsung-50e The issue is that the original raw Samsung cell doesn't have a protection circuit or button top, which is what Xtar offers. It can also be tricky to source an original cell as an individual consumer. I need to buy new ones for the MW4300 (one cell died on me) and will probably go for the newer Xtar 21700 5000mAh 25A, though the higher amperage isn't that important for a video light.

I just want to share some info that’s out there if you dig deep enough, but honestly, it’s a pain to track down. Here’s the deal: brands like Nitecore and Xtar don't actually make batteries. They just buy cells from the real manufacturers, slap on a protection board (either their own or from someone else), and wrap it in their own label. If you check the specs from the world’s actual battery giants—Samsung, LG, Sanyo, or China’s EVE—you’ll notice something fishy: none of them make a 21700 cell with a crazy 6000mAh capacity. So, whenever I see those "super capacity" claims from these third-party brands, I’m highly skeptical. When you’re picking a battery, ignore the marketing fluff and look at Capacity, Max Discharge Current, and Cycle Life. Capacity is obviously how much juice it holds. Max Discharge is the big one—it’s what allows your video lights or flashes to run at high power without quitting on you. Cycle Life is basically how many times you can recharge it before it’s trash. In my experience, most flashes and video lights need about 20–25A of max discharge to handle 90% of what you’ll throw at them. This means your video lights stay bright and stable, and your flash recycles way faster. Protection boards (PCBs) are there for safety—to keep things from blowing up if there's a short circuit. But here’s the catch: they often throttle the battery's performance. For instance, I’ve used high-power cells with added PCBs on Marelux flashes, and even though the cell itself was strong enough, the PCB blocked the power flow and the flash wouldn't even turn on. Plus, adding a PCB makes the battery physically longer, so it might not even fit in your gear. If you’re still with me after all that technical talk, here’s how I spend my money: The "In-Box" Battery: If a light comes with a branded battery, I’ll use it. At least you know the manufacturer (hopefully) tested it with that specific device. Buying "Raw" Cells: For extras, I buy directly from the cell manufacturers (like Lishen, EVE, etc.). Why? Because I can see the real spec sheets and know exactly what I’m getting. Plus, it’s way cheaper. Check this price gap: Lishen (The Manufacturer) 5000mAh: Usually around $5–$8. https://liionwholesale.com/collections/batteries/products/lishen-21700-lr2170sd-9-6a-flat-top-5000mah-battery-genuine Nitecore (The Label) 5000mAh: Usually $20–$30+. https://nitecorestore.com/products/nitecore-nl2150-21700-5000mah-rechargeable-li-ion-battery?currency=USD I’m not trying to judge Nitecore or any other brands. I just don't think the "extra value" they provide is worth the massive markup. Personally, I’d rather go straight to the source. It gets the job done just as well, and I’m not paying 3x the price just for a fancy sticker.

I have the adapter Chris mentions. There are several versions. I have used three versions thus far. One of the first two might work for you. It is a bit of a Rube Goldberg with both fiber optics and a cable, one on each side of the adapter that dangles in the middle. I found this to be not rugged enough for my use in Alaska. The third version screws into a Retra starting with the gen 3 models so does away with having to use fiber optics. This is what I am using now. One thing you should know is these adapters are for manual use, no TTL. I suggest that you use a strobe that takes N5 cables. This is the only way you are likely to get TTL flash which was more useful with film than with digital as there is no chimping with film. There are loads on the used market for not very much. The last new model was the Nikon SB105 that was introduced to replace the recalled SB103 so are likely to be not too used. Make sure to have back up synch cords on hand as they do eventually fail.

Aloha and welcome @VTDiver

With my GH-5 housing, I used to do that, but with my new GH-7 housing, it was too large to fit in the same space, so I had to rearrange my packing system and was able to leave the handles on now.

Hey @tailwind_marseille , It has worked out really well so far, I've done two trips to Bonaire with it along with a few local trips. At 10mm the corners are pretty soft so I've recently 3D printed a zoom gear for it to let me do more thorough testing in water to find the best FL to use. I haven't had a chance to test that in the water though. But nonetheless I'm happy with it, as the centers have been sharp (when I'm not messing up my focus) I've attached two photos that are uncropped to show what it looks like in action around 10mm. These were taken in a Nauticam NA-A6700 housing, with the N85-N120 60mm port adapter, and the Zen DP170-N120 glass port. I'll find somewhere to post up the full resolution photos too, since I've had to resize them pretty small per the forum rules.

It's my understanding that the HF-1 requires a minimum discharge current to operate properly. The Nitecore NL5500HP that Backscatter initially spec'd (It's now discontinued) had a discharge current of 20A. The Nitecore NL6000HP also has a 20A discharge current, but for some reason Backscatter hasn't yet recommended it. Both Nitecores are vented/protected batteries. Backscatter now recommends the XTAR 25A discharge current 21700. I've used both the Nitecore 6000HP and XTAR 25A batteries successfully, but only for a few test shots each. Backscatter is not terribly forthcoming with battery amperage requirements, but I saw here or somewhere else that the min current of 20A was why they initially spec'd the Nitecore 5500.

It depends on the details, part of fast charging is having a battery with low internal resistance and the other half is the resistance of the charging circuit itself. Unless some sort of protection is put in place, the circuit will try to draw the current it is designed for, it may not achieve the current draw the strobe was designed for, but could quite possibly draw more current than the battery was designed for. This can lead to battery overheating. This might activate the thermal cutout in the battery management in the cell if it has one. If it doesn't have a BMS then potential to damage the battery. With high drain devices I would suggest you always want a battery with a protection circuit. You might find that the cells will work fine when lightly loaded taking single shots at low power like 1/16 or lower as the high current is drawn very briefly but when you switch up to near full power and continuous shooting, they won't perform. A 15A rated battery might work OK, but the 8A model listed before might not and the over-discharge protection might activate. It seems to me the safest advice is to use the cells recommended/tested, there are quite a few dodgy batteries being being sold and buying a known good battery from a reputable vendor is cheap insurance.

I think there is an envelope of sensors that will work. For example, a 20A max current battery might charge the HF-1 in x time, while a 10 A max current battery might charge it at nX where n is approaching 2. At 15A max current n will be smaller than at 10A. At 5 A max current you will likely still get charging but much slower. I haven't looked at the charging circuit for the HF-1, but in theory you could build a circuit that will not charge below a certain current input but why would you. Bill

The Iranian islands near the Straits used to have excellent coral coverage (according to scientific expedition literature from last century). It's almost all been destroyed due to dock building and other infrastructure. The Oman side is supposed to be better, although viz isn't what you get in The Red Sea.

Baseball cap ordered. I’ll wear it with pride on my next trip (Tenerife)

Great to have you with us,VT. A warm welcome Waterpixels. Best wishes Tim

Just waiting to become official. Was previously on WetPixel.

I'm an old-school scuba diver with more than 30 years of teaching (NAUI) under my weight belt but now retired in pursuit of UW photo as a hobby. Lived and dove in Vermont/Lake Champlain before snowbirding to coastal Georgia.

My question concerns the principle of how many amperes the HF-1 requires at a minimum. Backscatter surely provides specifications for this, which I would like to know. There are plenty of other batteries with the same capacity of at least 5000mAh on the market.

As I have listed earlier, the 21700 Li-Ion rechargeable batteries that I am using for my two new Retra Maxi Strobes is comprised of six 3.6V model Nitecores. Four consist of the NL2160HP models which boasts a capacity of 6000mAh at 21.6Wh, whereas the 2 Nitecore NL2153 models feature 5300mAh with a 19.08 Wh rating. In addition to them, the 21700’s provided with both my Dive Rite CX2 light and Kraken Sports Hydra 1800+WSR focus light are also 3.6V 5000mAh models with 18Wh rating. All feature a continuous 20A to 25A discharge current specifically designed for high-drain devices like powerful flashlights and flash systems. Based on that and what others like Chris Ross, Dave Hicks, and Backscatter have sited to use with Backscatter HF-1 and Retra’s Maxi pretty much boils down to 20A 3.6V 5000mAh model 21700 with 18Wh rating. The only question from there is why would you want or need with 21700 with a lower amperage for a HF-1?

Thanks, good ton know! Very helpful, thanks! Because of the strange answer, I asked again how many amps the batteries for the HF-1 must have at a minimum, but I haven't received an answer yet.

I allways remove the handle of my Isotta R5 housing... put it in the backpack to go... and in the laggage way back.

one wouldn't want to get too close to Iran in case they arrested you and accused you of spying or just machine gunned you on the spot I'm imagining the reefs on the Oman side might be quite un-dived and intact this week might not be ideal but it would be bloody quiet and you could always watch the missiles flying overhead from the RIB...

I came across this video (a bit long for my taste) that revisits the eternal debate between Full Frame and cropped formats, and the alleged loss of quality for us "normal" enthusiasts. Here, the comparison is even more extreme because we are talking about an excellent but older M43 camera as the Panasonic G9, medium format digital cameras like the Fujifilm GFX 50S, and medium format film cameras. The guy evaluates the image quality by looking at digital files and physical prints measuring 16x20 inches. Because the digital files were cropped to a square ratio to match the film camera, the magnification level of the prints equals a larger 26x20 inch format. During the evaluation, the MF digital camera displays finer details and smoother rendering. On close inspection of the physical prints, the medium format images show more distinct lettering and sharper elements. When observing the prints from a normal viewing distance, the results from the M43 and the MF cameras appear identical. It is necessary to stand very close and examine the prints side by side to notice the variations. Without having two prints next to each other, it is difficult to identify which camera system captured the image. The video also notes that using AI upscaling software on M43 images produces results that approach native medium format resolution. The software can sometimes introduce minor visual artifacts. The M43 system maintains an advantage in portability, as a full medium format kit would be larger and heavier. He observes that elements such as composition, focus placement, and aperture selection have a larger impact on the final image than the camera format.

does anyone else take the handles of there nauticam hosing or any housing to fit into their carry on backpack

I can't agree with that. I work in CH, and like you don't need more than 20 minute to be in CH. ( No it's depending of the moment of the day... some times when the worker are going to Basel... it can be more than one hour ;) ) My working kolleg from CH are not really happy... appartment insurance etc etc all is very expensive... and in comparaison with France they didn't have a lot of money. BUT strike is not an option It is not in the culture of Swiss-German

Wreck diving might become good in the Straits…..