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Like the triggers from UWT and Turtle the Marelux flash trigger is designed for the most current Marelux housings and Marelux line of strobes. This current version does not support the HSS function in the Apollo strobes. The trigger is fast enough to shoot at 20+ frames a second and it is a plug and play configurations.

The photos are with the Sony FE 20-70mm F /4. I now have a 180 port in house and will be testing the Sigma soon. The OM 12-45mm F/4 is a 1:4 lens so about the same as FF at 1:2.

Those were all shot with the 20-200mm behind a 180mm dome? I miss the ability of my m4/3 12-50mm as a generalist lens for photos of opportunity. Being able to find something similar for Sony FF is very appealing.

Recently i bought used ipad mini (A17) + Apple pencil... i want something more portable than a computer to take with me on liveaboard/Hollidays and do small color grade tasks.. Test it for couple days with davinci resolve free version....Aces transform ( GP-Tune transform) but the colors/algorithm numbers dont seem good enough for GP-LOG2 use... The xtremesuff developer told me to use DCTL i need the studio version for the iPad.. Decide to give it a go on davinci studio for ipad, and im able to use DCTL and full version of GP-TUNE transform, the diference is night and day... but the ipad version has some limitations that for my use case is not big deal. Did side by side color grade Ipad 8,3" vs Macbook pro 16" and they match, but sometimes is painful and frustrating to use the ipad to color grade, since theres a small learning curves, like cut full audio from the clip..... the job can be done, but for extreme details i will keep the computer.

That is one of the guides out of a fantastic serie. https://www.nhbs.com/2/series/seasearch-guides If you just want a simpler guide, more of an overview of common British species, this is a great one. https://www.nhbs.com/great-british-marine-animals-book

Hi Fred, I have been following your quest for useful insight and this is my take. Most fish are larger than 1cm and will fit into a 1:2 minimum focus distance frame. The 90-105mm macro lenses are most useful for images from the minimum 1:1/1.4:1 hangout to about 1:6 before you are putting to much water between the lens and subject, vis is a contributing factor in some cases. So while I wholeheartedly endorse the Sony FE 100mm as the best macro lens on the planet, (I have one with 1.4 & 2X tele converters) I believe you have a chance of a wider range of subjects with a zoom lens. The attached photos were taken with the Sony A7R V in Marelux housing with the Sony FE 20-70mm F/4 lens using a 180mm dome port. This lens has a 1:2.56 minimum magnification. The camera is 61MP so cropping is no problem for your use I would think. Marelux and Nauticam both support this lens with a zoom gears. Marelux uses an extension ring 50 and Nauticam uses the N100 to N120 35.5 port adapter II and extension ring 35 with the 180mm port. This is a $1200.00 Sony lens. With this lens you would really shoot at less than about F/8/F11. While I have been very happy with the Sony 20-70mm when I know I will be dealing with a verity of subjects sizes I have now found what I consider to be an even better mousetra, the Sigma 20-200mm F/3.6-6.3 DG a $900.00 lens. This is a lens that at this time is only supported by Marelux with a zoom gear. What makes this lens unique is that it focuses to 1:2 from 28 to 85mm behind the 180mm dome and can extend out to about 130 to 150mm before it quits focusing because it gets to near the dome glass. Additionally the Sigma will stop down to F/40 in the macro range. My guess is that I am older than you Fred and I have been using the Sony A7R VI, A1 II and A7C both II and R all with Marelux housings and dual Marelux Apollo S and Apollo Y TTL strobes. Like some other strobes in the market these include HHS which solves the /1/160th sync to a degree, TTL, and multi frames settings. If you decide to go with the A7C II/R I have a like new Marelux housing and very low milage A7C II and A7C R camera bodies for sale.

Sounds like you found your partner! The best results will come from equipment that you are familiar with - whether it’s is new or top-of-the-line does not matter if you can’t find the button for making a particular adjustment. I shoot a 12 year old m43 and it’s not the camera that limits my shots… As I mentioned, your « partner ». 😉 we keep those around for a while…

@Klaus For the strobe : my INON D200 (I also have 2 S2000) have a descent recycling time (1,5 sec). 20 GN is not a lot but it is usually enough for me. I read that popular strobes like Retra Pro Max II does not recycle faster. But I should investigate other brands. It is true that recycling time is limiting for me. This is why I have considered buying a powerful video light (like weefine solar pro) and test using burst mode photography, but fish seem to be very sensitive to such lights, so no sure this is a good option. Prehaps investigating a Backscatter Hybrid Flash HF-1 ? Sorry, my wording was imprecise. If you had a more powerful strobe, then it will not use all the capacity for the flash and you can get another shot very soon after that. The recycling could happen in the background, so to speak. I should thus have written … a stronger strobe with fast recycling … or so. And, as said before, in your situation you certainly want to rely on automatic TTL strobe exposure. The HF1 could be a good choice but I don’t own this strobe.

I think we're more strict regarding sharpness than the marketing people of these companies. I use AOI UWL-03 wide lens with GoPro 12 and something like 4-6 cm was advertised as I remember. I haven't done any scientific experiments but my footage with Xmas worm filmed approximately that distance was not sharp.

Today 7Artisans has announced on its Facebook site that the AF 10mm F/2.5 MAX fisheye will be released on August 27/GMT+8 for $449.00USD. The post does not indicate if the lens will only be sold on the & artisans site or if it will be in online stores like B&H Photo.

I'm glad that Sony's model naming conventions are pretty logical to someone... The A7 V is a hybrid camera, but the A7R VI is a high end stills camera - surely it would make more sense to give the high end stills cameras their own number line like A3 VI instead of mixing them in with the A7 hybrids and hoping that everyone somehow figures out that an A7 without the R is a hybrid and with an R is a stills camera with nearly twice the MP? Gen Z must be totally confused as they usually have absolutely no knowledge of Roman numerals! At the moment I am waiting to be approved to join a A forum so as I can ask a couple of really indepth questions.

This trigger was officially released for months https://www.marelux.co/products/ttl-flash-trigger?VariantsId=10121, but I can hardly find any useful review for it, especially the comparison with other competitors like UWT or Turtle. Anyone can share some real experience on this?

Thanks @Davide DB and @Architeuthis . Yes I have seen the D850 set up (with nauticam) : it is too big for me, mostly because of the housing. I have also seen the A7CII + 28-60 set up (with nauticam) : it is perfect. I think I could even tolerate a slightly bigger housing. I have never seen the housing of A7R5/6, it seems to be in between that of D850 and A7CII. On the paper, the A7CR seems the ideal camera for me, especially if the 1/160 sync is not an issue (I had read that some poeple complained about this but I do not remember if this was based on real experience or not). My only remaining concern is that it has been released in 2023. Psychologically, it is difficult for me to put such an amount of money for something that might soon be replaced. But I have a grant to buy this equipment, I cannot wait to spend it. And if this is currently the best option...

Here is the assortment of different camera types that Sony offers, it seems pretty logical to me: #1.: Entry-level model class, very capable and universal: A7 Five generations exist at present, from original to mark 5 (A7V) #2.: Highest resolution and IQ, totally photocentric, not so good for video and fast action/sports: A7R At present in its sixth generation (A7RVI, which made a leap towards video and action, but still not the best for this purpose) #3.: High end allround model, high IQ for photo, fast action (e.g. birding) and good for video: A1 At present in its second generation (A1II) #4.: Specialized model series for fast action/sports: A9 Currently in its third generation, A9III, that has even global shutter (=zero rolling shutter and no limit to flash sync. speed) #5.: Compact series: A7C and A7CR Providing similar features as #1 (A7CII) and #2 (A7CR) in a compact camera body In addition they offer different types of camera bodies that are designed for videographers...

"The only purpose of the dives is to photograph fish, and to capture them. Usually I take a picture, and then I try to catch the photographed fish (with chemicals and handnets - then my camera, attached to me, floats above my shoulder - it needs positive buoyancy). I am diving in NE Atlantic and Medit. Viz can be good, or much lower than 2m... " In this case (catching the fish after the photo, that is just intended for documentation) a hughe setup, providing the best IQ, may not be ideal (but it could work in case there is a colleague to help out (e.g. holding the hughe setup while catching the fish and holding the catching gear (and the already caugth fish) while making the photo)?). A compact setup (e.g. A7CR/Sony 28-60mm/CMC-1) with a single, TTL operated, compact flash is probably better suited to do the job. Flash mounted close to the housing (suboptimal lightening, but compact). A7CR certainly fulfils the requirement of better AF and (much) more resolution compared to most cameras and certainly compared to an old compact camera as the G5 is... There are comprimizes with very small and also the large fish, but one can crop for the small fishes... On special occasions, one could even deviate from the universal concept and mount Sony 100mm macro/SMC-3 (on flip) for small fish or a water contact optics (e.g. WWL-1) for large ones, in order to get better IQ?

Do you dive with your colleague? Have you ever handled hisl D850 kit underwater? Except for the housing, the ports are the same for any FF kit on the market.

Omino Bianco: blowing out your highlights straight out of the box, no strobes required 😉

Their whole lineup is so all over the place that their cheapest 24MP camera is three times the price of a Z5ii - but it is designed for Pro sports photography. They have four less expensive full frame cameras - one of which is the A7V at 33MP, and the other three cheaper cameras are all 61MP cameras - there just seems to be no logical progression to their lineup at all!

Ok, over here the Sony is roughly twice the price of a z5ii. Not really on top of the Sony line-up. They might or might not have something similar to the z5ii?

Hi, thanks to all for all the answers. @dentrock is true that I should have given some contextual information. The only purpose of the dives is to photograph fish, and to capture them. Usually I take a picture, and then I try to catch the photographed fish (with chemicals and handnets - then my camera, attached to me, floats above my shoulder - it needs positive buoyancy). I am diving in NE Atlantic and Medit. Viz can be good, or much lower than 2m... "I don't find the quoted Sony 1/160 synch speed limiting" -> this is very informative as it makes A7CR a good option, thanks. @Chris Ross @ Architeuthis I had not considered Olympus/OM so far. Spontaneously, 20Mpixels seemed to few to me: this is what has my CanonG5xii, and I am currently frustated by the lost of details when I crop (compared to a colleague who has a D850, for exemple). So the benefit would be mainly to have a better autofocus, no ? Yet evidence are there, and Olympus/OM seems definitely a route to investigate. Thanks For the housing, I like Nauticam. @Klaus For the strobe : my INON D200 (I also have 2 S2000) have a descent recycling time (1,5 sec). 20 GN is not a lot but it is usually enough for me. I read that popular strobes like Retra Pro Max II does not recycle faster. But I should investigate other brands. It is true that recycling time is limiting for me. This is why I have considered buying a powerful video light (like weefine solar pro) and test using burst mode photography, but fish seem to be very sensitive to such lights, so no sure this is a good option. Prehaps investigating a Backscatter Hybrid Flash HF-1 ? Is there alternative to Sony macro 50mm (=other brand) that could fit the Sony A7RVI, and that would be compact (like the Zuiko 60mm) ? Even if not, one option could also be to use the A7R VI + 28–60mm until a good 50/60mm macro is out (it would not be very expensive to secondarily by a lens + port if I already have a good camera body + housing).

This thread sponsored by Omino Bianco. “Omino Bianco: Dazzling your Whites”

Aloha and welcome Fred!

The Nikon is certainly a bit cheaper, but not enough to rule out the Sony - especially with the $400 cashback and a few other bonuses. Dimensions - the Nikon is 134 x 100.5 x 72mm, the Sony is 130.3 x 96.4 x 72.3 - so sizewise they are much of a muchness. I agree that the A7V isn't a great comparison to the Z5ii - unfortunately it was best that I could find as Sony's current range doesn't seem to have any natural order or ascendancy - it just seems like a whole bunch of cameras that were designed were each designed by a separate committee - that never communicated with each other... but if you can know of a Sony model that is a better comparison I would be keen to know! The battery life is I think going to be important to me if I get right into the focus stacking - using the CIPA standard the Z5ii will run for 330/380 images, however the Sony will run for 630/750 images - which could be important as my favourite local shore dive is a 600 metre swim out to it - and I'm getting too old to swim out all that way, run just 5 or 6 focus stacks before running out of battery...

The OP wants to photograph a range of fish sizes on the one dive, but doesn't mention if he is time limited (surveys?), or if the aim is solely fish photography. There is a world of difference between having to get any shot of say, a juvenile wrasse for later ID, then quickly moving on to continue a survey; vs a dive where you can chase your damsels and wrasses as much as you like. Several of the options suggested could work for the latter case; but if time limited, flip-flops and other water contact options won't cut it, so a macro lens is the best option. The OP didn't mention his typical dive conditions. In good viz, a 100mm macro should do the job on FF, but will not be much good in low viz; say 2-7m, so a 50-60mm macro makes more sense for FF there. Assuming as an ichthyologist he dives all over, then he will need both lenses; or at least the 100mm + the MFO-3, if he doesn't mind the extra length. The 100 may also prove a bit of an issue to physically track those damsels and wrasses. Physical tracking is certainly easier with more FOV, especially if you are time limited. And I get what others say about not cropping; but the fact remains that you can get good images allowing scale and fin counts even heavily cropping 60+ mpx sensors, including of 20mm gobies. We would all like not to crop, but it's not illegal! Not sure which housing system he is leaning towards, but if he favours Sony APS-C, I would steer clear of Nauticam, as the N85 port system is a curse. On the other hand, if size is a big consideration, then Sony A7CR is worth a look, as it is hardly bigger than the A6700, and he can still shoot APS-C if he wishes. More to the point, the Nauticam housings for these are similar size and weight; but you get the big advantage of the N100 port system with the A7CR housing, plus better fibre optic connections; something that the influencers never mention... When I owned both Nauticam rigs for Sony A7CR and A7RV, I measured the weight difference at 1.1 kgs (housing + body), with corresponding size difference. If size is not an option, then Canon and Nikon may offer macro options that perform better than Sony, though I haven't seen much of a size / weight difference between FF and APS-C rigs with those brands, so FF will make sense. As a working fish nerd myself, I don't find the quoted Sony 1/160 synch speed limiting, and it is in any case 1/200 in practice.