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Read your question more carefully. I asked about the front element, not the real one. I don't think the rear has coating but, to answer what I "heard", I believe Phil only answered about the font element because that's the one I was trying to fix. Gary

Yes, I spoke with Phil, if you know him. But if you want more assurance just mail them. They are very responsive to questions. Gary

Let me verify, you spoke with a knowledgeable person at Nauticam and the WWL-1 and WWL-1C do not have external coatings on the dome and rear element nor their other water contact optics?

Looking to buy one, if anybody wants to sell. Gary

I'm another one who corresponded with Nauticam. The outer surface does not have any optical coating. I'd expect cerium oxide to work well (or at least as good as possible). You can buy the powder on Amazon. Mix with water to form a paste and polish away. The paste will not scratch the glass but will polish very nicely. Just make sure your towel (preferably microfiber) is clean of any debris, especially metal flakes, from any past use.

Sea & Sea strobes are a topic of debate around here, especially after the widespread D2 issues. I've been shooting S&S since the YS-25auto, had a pair of YS-110a's for many years, and now D3's. I've shot Ys-D3's for ~4 years now on my Sony A6100 system and think they're great. Using the popup flash with TTL, both Fisheye EA (with dome diffusers), as well as macro (with the snoot), and they're great strobes. Easy to use, great battery life, and well priced.

This is correct, the 17mm NA N100 to MX was actually designed for WACP C and the N120 20mm for N120 ports, extensions and wet lenses like WACP 1. I have used all of the above including WACP C, WACP 1, NA 230 dome and Matty Smith 12 inch domes with a verity of lenses. For macro it is best to switch to Marelux unless your macro port can convert using extensions. Attached photos are WACP-1 on N120 adapter, WACP-C on the N100 adapter and MS 12" dome on the NA N120 to MX adapter.

Phil can correct me, but if shooting Sony the 17mm Marelux to N100 Nauticam adapter (MX-31704) should allow all of the N100 ports to fit with the ~13mm shorter extension that Marelux uses. It will still take a little math to get it right across the port range as that is the equivalent of the 30mm extension on Nauticam, not just straight housing. If your Ports are N120, then there is a conversion ring for that as well, but it is 20mm so doesn't account for the 2-3 mm differences between the two housing brands - not sure that matters.

Just out of curiosity: in case one would switch from Nauticam (e.g. A7R5) to Marelux A75(R6) housing, would it be possible to mount a single adapter to the Marelux housing and continue to use all Nauticam ports/extensions (and adjust the regular Nauticam extensions for an easy to achieve distance (e.g. +/- 10mm) to compensate for the difference in sensor<->port mount distance)? Which one?

It found a home

@Mike Saunders Better luck tomorrow!

They could be different types of glass, there are many different types of optical glass around. BK7 is one of the most common. The procedure is straight forward - on a dive boat either keep the lens wet or apply the wet neoprene lens cover and keep it cool. Soak the lens for a period in fresh water. Then remove it and dry it straight away. I have a battery duster that I use, you could also use a blower attachment on a scuba tank or a compressed ir hose, depending on what you have available. Then dry with a microfibre cloth.

I just recently published it on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2877582-float-for-backscatter-hf-1-strobe-220g-buoyancy

i think i am far away on the other side of the world... are the print file available anywhere?

to be honest it was impossible shore night dive with swell and my mask misting up. could barely see let alone focus. turned strobes off and carried in with ring light only. makes one hell of a torch for night dives but really the surge was too much to get decent photos 😐 a calmer longer dive and more time would help

Mike, Thanks! It makes sense that the ring light would falloff pretty quickly with distance. How did your experiment supplementing with strobes go? Did you use the ring light in strobe mode?

Same for you as well! Great seller and buyer!

On the Mission 1 pro has being added range to the already existent Auto and fixed Shutter Range : 1/120 - 1/7680 1/240 - 1/7680 1/360 - 1/7680 Iso Range: 25-100 25-200 25-400 25-800 25-1600 25-3200 25-6400 And now is visible Shutter -iso - ev comp - wb in the top of the screen

For underwater photography the $2800.00US 33mp Sony A7 V is the best full frame entry level camera in the market hands down. The best verity of U/W related lenses to select from at a wide range of price points, excellent AF speed, tracking speed and much more. Being able to use both the A7 V and the A7R VI in the same housing adds to the value as your needs grow. The housing supports FlashFuel 2100 for manual flash plus extra battery power, it also supports remote shutter trigger up to about 10 meters and has two M16 and one M24 mounts for accessories like vacuum, remote monitor, external USB -C charging, external flash triggers and more. Attached a few photos of the housing and excessories. US retail $3398.00. The housing can be ordered as an A7R VI or A7 V with kit for user conversion for use with both cameras.

I'm using Sony alpha 6000 series in a housing using the pop up flash to trigger using fiberoptic cables - (made using the excellent article on this forum) I did indeed mention the wrong backscatter strobe - I meant the atom! 🤦‍♂️ I can see that the sea and sea ys d3 is available for around £500 in the uk and the atom is about £600 I was planning on using manual settings but are either of these units capable of delivering reliable TTL using my existing pop up flash triggered system? I'm keen to start doing wideangle as well as macro

I've put my order in for this lens. Shipping July 24. Waiting to hear back from Marelux on whether or when they will support zoom gear and extension.

exported to JPEG and the worm thing copped from original

What system do you have? The Backscatter strobes do not have universal TTL and only work with their proprietary trigger or OM cameras. There is a big power and size jump between the YSD3 and the HF-1, maybe the new Atom is closer to your needs, assuming you have an OM camera. The price Delta between the HF-1 plus float collar is not that great compared to the Retra Maxi which does have universal TTL and some other features, like a huge power range and neutral buoyancy and a for real warranty I hope not to need ;). YS strobes have not been noted for their reliability now for several generations, not sure if the D3 is any better or their newer D130.

Blue or even Red! The HF-1 w/float is a bit bigger than the Retra, but not by a lot. Max diameter is about 15mm more, height and weight are nearly the same as the Retra's are heavier to start with. When I first put the Retra Maxi's on my Rig, replacing the HF-1s, it was annoyingly buoyant and unbalanced. I had to remove 2 Stix Jumbo blocks (180grams each) to get it back in some sort of decent trim. The HF-1 floats are a bit more buoyant the Stix Jumbo at 220 grams each. Using the HF-1 floats now is actually a big convenience because I don't need to Add/Remove Stix blocks on my arms when I switch between Retra and HF-1 strobes.

Larger housings actually are generally more buoyant than smaller housings. With Retra Maxi strobes on my NA-6400 (or NA-R50) I need to tie a string on the rig and pull it around like a helium balloon at the fair. I am going to have to remove some floatation or add lead. That is with a 4.33 dome, with the WWL it is a few ounces negative still and either way balance is perfect. I do not know if it was engineering expertise or just luck but the Retra Maxi strobes are perfect in the water, neutral, sometimes bigger is more littler. The price Delta between the HF-1 and the Retra Maxi is not huge, with floats on the HF-1 it is larger than the Maxi. But if I had an HF-1, I think I would want a set of those floats, looks like a great solution to a boat anchor of a strobe and they look professional and I bet they can be gotten in blue!