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I searched this picture made with the RF100... Distance 7 m like the frog fish left This distance is near the reality not the frog fish

The distance are really not right. It change from 1 m to 4, 7, 18 and infinite I don't know how it is calculate... Water, lens and MFO-3 bring the exif to madness The left picture is 4m the right 1 m....

Sold!!!

I browsed through the pictures in LR. The one right is without the MFO-3 (Canon RF100) The subject to big it was a shot to make test. The left one is (sure to 99%) with the MFO-3... more or less the same distance as the other. The frgofish moved a little

No decision yet. Right now I'm busy selling off the remaining Seacam equipment and a few Nauticam items, ordering the Commlite adapter and then testing it in comparison with the Kenko on my 8-15. Personally, I'm not interested in a rectilinear wide-angle lens behind the dome as the optical quality has simply been too poor in my experience. If you have sample shots and 100% crops from the corners with your RF 24-50/WWL-C, it would be nice to have a look.

Hi everyone, I'm sure this gets throw out a lot (and I'm spending some time going through previous threads): I'm researching on what to get as my first dedicated underwater setup and am quite lost :) I have a TG-6 that I used last summer while snorkelling and did not like its soft images. I compared to an old Canon S110 I had in a drawer and the Canon is better... I guess it is to be expected, considering the small sensor. So, I started looking in to options as a camera for my first underwater dedicated setup. An old Nikon J5 in a drawer seemed like an option until the lack of housings quickly made it moot. I then thought of a second hand Sony RX100 IV or V, as the cost is not prohibitive and there are enough housing options. But... then .... yeah... exactly, it's getting BIGGER :) ... I quickly realised that the Salted Line housing for the Sony Alpha 6xxx range is actually cheaper than for the RX100. And, a second hand A6400 comes around for a similar price of the RX100 V (plus the lenses, of course, but that part I do like, swapping lenses for different goals). I've been shooting topside film and then APS-C cameras from Nikon, and I would like to get similar sharpness from my photos underwater. This made me orient to researching for the Sony E mount lenses options, housings, etc. But later, talking to a photography enthusiast friend who made the move to full frame ~10 years ago, he sold me on the idea of going full frame. The Sony A7C seemed like a perfect fit, similar in size to the A6400, but then came the bad news: housings are more expensive (Salted Line does not have a A7C housing, only Seafrogs - and from what I understand Salted Line is a Seafrogs subsidiary that produces its housings with higher quality, right ?), and I also started to realise that regarding strobes I might not be able to get away with smaller ones, like a couple Ikelite Eckos, or Inon S220s ... ? I even spent some time checking out MFT cameras (there are good deals for Olympus Pen E-PL10 + housing), but I feel it will always be a step down in image sharpness vs the APS-C (and of course full frame) options, plus the Sony autofocus seems to be a game changer. As you see, I'm quite lost. 1) Will a A6400 be significantly bulkier than a Olympus Pen ? I know it's bigger, but I would like to know from people who use these rigs how much "annoying" they really are. I'm ok with the extra size/weight unless we're talking about "cinema camera" loads here... I'm ok with a little bigger rig if I'll be considerably more satisfied with my images. 2) Am I going crazy considering the Sony A7C ? Assuming it's similarly sized to a A6400, I see the problems mostly with its cost (although not much more in second hand), the lenses (a little bigger, but I think I would go for similar lenses with the A6400, thinking of a future upgrade), but I'm not sure about strobes ? I would also use the A7C topside, to replace my current ageing Nikon D3300. 3) has someone here used Salted Line housings (for the Axxx range?) and is happy with them ? My purpose is not to break the bank and go for second hand material (camera body, lenses, ports), I like the idea of cheaper housings as long as flooding is not an issue (I'm not - yet - prepared to pay a premium for usability and quality of feel, as long as it works, I'm happy with it), and I would like to avoid spending 1K per strobe. I also don't know how (un)reasonable all this sounds. Plus, I would like to do both wide angle AND small things. Uffff... I'm leaning towards the A6400 based setup (also thanks to previous input elsewhere from another member here, Barmaglot), but I can be nudged either way. And there are the lights too... Thanks !

Look at the subject distance in the EXIF, it will be in the range of 0.6m plus unless you are pushing right in next to the lens, It shows up in properties under details tab, scroll down to camera in Windows explorer.

No worries — take your time and try to dig out some images 🙂 I’m curious to see them.

Is there a decision by now? I’ve also been searching for the right ultra-wide-angle solution for a long time. At the moment I’m using a Canon R5 with the 15–35mm f/2.8 and an 8.5" acrylic dome. With the 70 mm extension, the acrylic dome always tends to float upwards, which really annoys me. I’ve also tried the EF 8–15mm, both with and without the 1.4× Kenko teleconverter. However, I don’t always find the fisheye look to be the right fit. I also tested the RF 24–50mm with the WWL-C. I actually found the image quality to be very good, and a friend of mine uses the same combination as well — mainly because of the lower weight and the versatility.

I made some shots during last trip... but to be honest I don't know wich with and witch without the MFO-3 I can try to find some but without waranty. But if you have time, I'll have some after 10 days diving in Lembeh next month.

It's a self made flip I'm searching some pictures wait a mnute

Do you have any sample images taken with the MFO-3? I’m using the same combination and would be very interested to see some example shots. You mentioned using a 3× flip — which manufacturer is that from?

Maybe the shark was offended the diver was only shooting with an action cam?

I am still field testing these designs for the new Backscatter Atom Strobe but thought I would share a sneak peek! Bumper Ring Full reduction ring set - Wide, Macro, Super-macro 4500k Color Filter that fits in the wide reduction ring Adapter to retrofit the OS-1 snoot to the Atom Strobe using the strobes bayonet mount

Looking at the rig I'm thinking one large buoyancy behind the monitor arm between the the two arm clamps, either using triple clamps or a system like this one: If you add enough foam to the back of the monitor to make it neutral on it's own you can place it where you want it without worrying about trim too much and you could raise it a little to make room for a big arm there. Then place about the same amount of buoyancy underneath between the two rails, maybe overall go for slightly positive on the housing/sled. Next attach floats to your light to get them independently neutral and connect them up with plain arms. you could try to find a hollow ring type arrangement or I think even a "T" at the end of the arm with a float above and the light below , it could then be set so the clamp is not too tight and it will always have the float wanting to sit directly above the light. set the fore-aft position of the light attachment point so that it sits level and doesn't want to twist. I did something similar with an astronomical telescope on a fork mount years back. A guide scope above and the same weight below the body of the scope plus a trim weight going back and forth. Fiddling with positions I could get it to sit anywhere it was pointed with minimal friction on the axes. In principle you are trying to achive the same thing with your rig, but using floats rather than weights for balancing and trim weights to adjust for aft trim. The scope only had two axes to worry about, you will have three, but the side to side is handled through symmetry.

Coming back to this, your sled really looks great. To make a slight coming out, I will)be upgrading to a FF Sony A7SIII rig at some point in the not too distant future and I really like your approach. I shoot a lot of macro/super macro video (and the rig will start of as a macro rig before I even consider wide angle), and would need to mount quadripod to the tray, and considering your design for the future rig. Do you think it would be possible to mount 4 legs onto the rails? Maybe with moveable attachment points for increased flexibility? Also how are you finding the length of rails you're using at the moment?

strange it went to a red X it wasn't that way after I posted, try again: link also include the text version of link: bcgforums.com/threads/nikon-z8-focus-shift-and-flash-issue.34347/ it went straight to the red X just now for some reason. Hopefully the new trigger will solve the issue.

Yes, it's unfortunate that some of these things are not well made. Bear in mind you'll also need a 1"ball mount Z adapter to add to the strobe, with INON they are purchased separately. The mounting system for the INON strobes is quite sturdy. I had my INON Z240s for 10 years and they are still in good shape. Don't be afraid to use a single strobe while on this trip, the the TG-7 doesn't require particularly strong flash as it's f2.8 at the wide end and the single YS-01 will provide OK coverage there. For macro, you are closer and using one strobe for macro is quite straight forward for most situations. Also be aware that f8-f18 is achieved through a ND filter on the TG-7, the only time you would want to use it is if you are trying for a black background, it doesn't provide additional depth of field.

Incredibly annoying, but the problem is people buy them without research only to discover this and then complain about on internet forums as the manufacturers are behind a firewall and hard to contact and even if you do, it falls into a black hole. The only way to force change is to stop buying crappy solutions like this. That is why I have an INON focus light, it turns on by rotating a knob to low power, rotate it further and get high power, seems like it's a magnetic switch with two positions. Simple and robust, uses AA batteries, not incredibly bright - but enough for focusing, no auto off on strobe - it is not needed as the light is dim. On lights with higher output and more power levels they add another dial.

If you refer to the port charts you will see that the A7 port chart consistently requires 5mm more extension on the same lens/dome combination compared to what is listed on the port chart for later bodies. It appears they re-designed the housings placing the camera flange 5mm further back in the housing, perhaps to accommodate new lenses better, or even to allow for the grip on newer bodies?? Whatever the reason, the port charts changed due to change of housing design and this required a different Nikonos adapter. if your refer to the below webpage and scroll down to section 8 you will see the A7II has a deeper grip so this seems the likely reason for the re-design of the housing and new port charts: Mirrorless ComparisonSony A7 vs A7 II - The 10 main differences - Mirrorless C...The A7 was Sony’s first ever full frame mirrorless camera. It was released at the end of 2013 alongside the A7R. One year later, the Japanese company caught everybody by surprise with the launch of th If you look at the 37202 adapter, it has those two bolt-on pieces which act as the adapter flange to prevent the water pressure pressing the adapter into the housing. They are removable to allow space for the control knobs to rotate into position. This is consistent with having to place the lens 5mm further into the housing. The modification of the camera tray was discussed on another thread is un-related I believe, they are talking about very small adjustments because the location mechanism for the tray is not precise enough to get the accuracy required to achieve infinity focus. The different adapters are purely to accommodate the change in the housing design.

Your monitor has a nice flat surface on the back. Perfect for some DIY float! The ideal theoretical situation would be one where moving the lights does not change the trim at all. Unfortunately, cameras are small and have a form factor optimized for taking photos rather than shooting video like camcorders. As a result, we all end up with a sort of 'M-configuration' or something close to it. The first approach would be to make the lights neutral or nearly neutral. Keldan offers very expensive floats for their lights 😃 Another way is to move the floats onto the housing itself, AKA place the foam as close as possible to the center of gravity. It is an almost impractical option for mirrorless cameras, but in your case, with the sled, you have plenty of space. If you can find some closed-cell PVC foam, you can cut and shape it however you like. If you search the forum, we have discussed this quite a bit in the past.

After some research I found Nauticam was the only company to make an Nikonos V Adapter so far. There seem to be 3 iterations of it: N-85 / APS-C: # 3601 the first Nikonos 15mm Adapter, was made for SONY NEX-5 N-100 / FULL FRAME: Version One # 37201 N-100 / FULL FRAME: Version Two # 37202 ( which is described in this PDF manual ) Version One is reffered to, to be working with Sony A7 on some Nauticam dealer websites, whereas version two is supposed to be working with A7II onwards. The official Nauticam page says A7II / A9 / A7RIII / A7RIV / a2020 / A7C as of January 2026. It would support the different flange distances measures by some Nauticam Sony owners and explain why there are two versions and why some owners hat to modify their camera tray to get the lens working sharply. Does anybody know more detailed differences between the Version One and Two for FullFrame N100 ? I have attached images of all three variations below.

What engineer thought that 5 button pushes in 3 seconds was a "good" implementation? Insane. We make medical devices and I can only imagine what patients would say if we made them use a series of button pushes to get at some feature of the device. Bill