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it doesn't work. Flash is completely disabled with electronic shutter: https://eww.pavc.panasonic.co.jp/dscoi/DC-GH7/html/DC-GH7_DVQP3109_eng/0058.html And here: https://eww.pavc.panasonic.co.jp/dscoi/DC-GH7/html/DC-GH7_DVQP3109_eng/0168.html#00007 The flash does not fire when using the following functions: – Video recording – [ELEC.]/[Silent Mode] – High Resolution mode – [Filter Settings] The documentation clearly states that the flash will not fire when the shutter type is set to Electronic, or when Silent Mode (which forces the use of the electronic shutter) is turned on. This is a standard firmware block implemented by Panasonic across their camera bodies with non-stacked sensors. It is designed to prevent users from capturing partially illuminated frames, which happens because the electronic readout speed of the sensor cannot synchronize with the brief duration of a strobe flash.

Yes, I simplified a lot. You brighten the background by changing the ISO, basically exposing for the ambient light. But here Chris post comes into play: to get decent corners in full frame you have to work with approximately two stops narrower aperture, and so from the chart he posted you can see that the SNR is practically identical. In short, technically I do not see all this difference. Then for large prints I agree. But I still think that this endless debate comes down to corner cases. Camera manufacturers develop and market the full frame format to meet purely terrestrial needs, such as the search for a shallow depth of field for portraits or clean images at very high ISO for reportage. None of these features is optimized for shooting through a glass lens submerged in a liquid. Underwater optical physics, if isolated from the global market, would benefit more from the balance offered by smaller sensors. Micro four thirds allows the use of hydrodynamic domes and guarantees a native depth of field that greatly helps composition while diving.

HI Nauticam lists compatibility with Port 41 in its chart, without mentioning any restrictions. Could it really be used at 20mm with a flat port?

I have a GH7, but since I shoot video I have no idea. If you tell me how to check, I can see if I can find out for you. That said, I only have a cheap flash that I bought for topside work, and I don't really know what it is capable of. If you want to send me a direct message, we can talk further.

Hi Alexey! A warm welcome to Waterpixels - especially coming from Ukraine. Great to have you with us. We hope lys really enjoy the forum. Best wishes Tim

Very nice, thank you

What you describe is exactly the situation for many macro photos... In many WA photos, however, shutter speed, aperture and ISO are adjusted to give enough ambient light for the background, otherwise the photo may look as beeing from a nightdive (when everything is mostly lit by the flash(es)). Flashe(es) are normally only able to light the foreground object(s)... When a little deeper, even in very clear waters and sunshine (not to speak about our lakes)), the camera settings come soon to their borders to give a pleasant background (motion blurr, corner sharpness, noise and sometimes even dynamic range)...

I am not an IT person or anything, but I am trying to figure out why you are insisting on "cut and paste" instead of "drag and drop"? I always drag and drop any photos or videos and have no problems at all (unless they are too large).

Hi everyone! My name is Alexey, and I'm a diver from Ukraine. I'm passionate about underwater photography and was looking for a place where photographers could share experiences. That's basically why I'm here :) My main setup: Olympus TG6 + Kraken KRL02 wide wet, 2xInon Z330 or Backscatter MF1 & Snoot. I love both: macro and big ones, but really enjoy diving with big sharks and mantas. Experience: certified in late 2020, now Rescue with 500+ dives. Diving in Ukraine, Egypt, Mexico (both Baja and the Caribbean), Panama, Kenya, and the Maldives. Planning my upgrade to Nauticam + something like Sony A7V, but scared of the weight and the price of all that stuff :)))

I'm on the NW coast of Tassie. Airfares and accom are booked for the Go Diving show, I will have the Monday morning free to visit camera stores. I think that is just Underwater saying that they will have OM System gear on their stand - not 100% sure though. Nikon have a stand also, not sure about any others. Are you going?

Locally it is probably more to do with the loss of big industries that were the major employers - paper mill had 3,300 workers, a local company made such incredibly good underground mining equipment that Caterpillar bought them and then a couple of years later moved the plant to Thailand - 600 jobs gone, paint pigment plant closed - 250 jobs gone, and so there just wasn't the money in town any more to support things like a camera shop.

But then I do not understand one thing... Practically nobody takes photos in ambient light where the camera has to try to adapt to ambient conditions. Here everyone uses strobes! So let us imagine having an Olympus M43 and a Sony A7RVI photographing the same scene. If the flashes are adjusted so that each of the two cameras records a properly exposed scene, I do not understand where this noise comes from. If the scene is too dark, you increase the flash power. In other words, taking it to the extreme, for what we are talking about, underwater photos are like a photo shoot in a studio. Where the light is adjusted by strobes and lights and not by the camera sensor. In a studio, the photographer doesn't work at ISO 1600. He increases the light power. It is different if I took photos in ambient light at dusk or in low light conditions. I would be forced to raise ISO to levels where I would probably notice the differences. P.S. I could be very critical about the low light conditions that everyone claims to be in... 😉

Sooooo tempting, Zeus to give you all sorts of wise advice about a HUGE investment in FF gear......

Hi, @Michi - apologies, I mistyped and reversed them. (too early in the AM with too little caffeine) Mechanical shutter is 1/400, if flash priority is set to auto or on, which I do. Electronic shutter is 1/200, which was unique at that time as it was the only common FF camera I knew of that would even offer the electronic shutter sync. My goal was to use the electronic shutter to keep the manual shutter count lower. In real world usage, I find better overall results with the manual shutter. While I mostly capture 1 frame at a time, I normally set the camera to continuous shooting mode M, typically to make ~3 frames in a burst.

Thanks

Welcome aboard! Ciao

yes, but apart from sunbursts, dynamic range I don't think is that useful under water, most shots I take I'm increasing contrast. Don't disagree there are certain situations where it will help. If you look at noise it seems to me the performance is closer than most people think. Here is one example comparing an EM-1 MkII with a Sony A7RV from DXO mark : You'll see the noise when the EM-1 is set to ISO200 is about the same as when the Sony is set ISO400. Effectively one stop better and shooting wide you may well want to have the Sony at 400 due to stopping down to f11-13, while the Olympus is happy at ISO200 at f8, but either way it's not a huge advantage. of course if you compare true ISO it's about a stop and half difference. The point is m43 can claw back quality by shooting at wider apertures and due to the smaller sensor they are less constrained by dome size. Here's a link to have a play with if you like: DXOMARKOlympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II vs Canon EOS R8 vs Sony A7R V |... The dynamic range curve is similar. In fact if you throw the Nikon Z8 or the Canon R8 into the pot they all very closely mimic the Sony curve. In fact DXO's most recent test results are from a camera released in 2023, it's like the curves are all so close there is little separate them and other shooting factors come into play like computational photography, AF, high frames/second etc. etc. to differentiate cameras today, making this sort of testing somewhat obsolete. Now I'm the first to admit these curves don't tell the whole story and certainly you shoot a bit higher ISO without noticeable penalty with full frame and there are other advantages for specific cases, but for general reef shooting and macro where you are shooting within a stop of base ISO it's close to a wash. I've linked in the past a shot taken on an OM-1 at ISO10,000 - it is surprisingly good. on the topic of large prints it seems to me we are talking A2 and above. If you look at physical prints in the big photo comps, I haven't looked lately but it seems they are mostly in A3 size range or the old 16x20.

Hello everyone I have been a lurker on WetPixel for years. I am mainly interested in video. I am very undecided between a cropped system and the enchanting sirens of full frame. Best regards

Pure manual triggers I believe rely upon the X-sync contacts within the shutter closing the circuit between the centre pin and the common edge contact, so to work they need the shutter to operate. E-Shutter needs the trigger to talk to the flash and establish communications so the sensor can trigger the flash. So a pure manual trigger doesn't tell the camera flash is even connected - this for example is how the Nauticam manual trigger can sync at 1/400 with the OM-1, the camera doesn't lock out the higher shutter speeds and the flash still fires regardless. Electronic shutter needs to co-ordinate with the sensor reading to fire the flash at the right time to fully illuminate the frame - on most camaeras unless they have very fast readout this means the sync speed for electronic shutter is lower. Out of interest why do you want to use e-shutter? Seems like it would be simpler to take advantage of the high mechanical sync speed in most circumstances?