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My 140mm dome has the lug ring screwed on, I know that all extension rings have the lugs machined in as do Zen domes. The Isotta 6.5"domes even though they come in glass or acrylic are not full hemispheres, so you can't position them properly for the entrance pupil for fisheye lenses as the centre of curvature is well behind the dome flange. The Howshot dome looks fine, I've seen and heard of a few accessories they make but don't recall anything about domes, I have heard all glass domes come from the same supplier for the major manufacturers, but Chinese made domes I couldn't be sure. Unfortunately there's not much other choice for fisheye dome ports - I assume you are trying to house a fisheye? BTW I moved the post to This forum, might be seen by more people.

The Laowa 10 is a poor performer behind the 140 dome, assuming we are talking sharpness across the frame, and uncropped images. I use a simple 3 point system to estimate sharpness across the frame. The centre is always sharp (assuming the lens can be properly focused) regardless of dome alignment or diameter. The question to be asked is: 'how big is that central sharp section?' not 'how sharp are the corners?' So I examine the centre at 100% and estimate the maximum diameter of the central sharp section. Score: 1= 12mm diameter, 2=24mm and 3=36mm. The figures are obviously approximate, but the fall-off in sharpness is actually quite easy to judge, assuming there are parts of the subject that should be in focus across the frame. I had high hopes for my Laowa 10, but its best score was 1 at f/11, using the 140 and total of 45mm extension, which gives a theoretical misalignment of -5mm (a minus indicates too much extension by that amount). The dome shade also vignetted moderately and would need to be removed. Now 12mm sharpness could be OK in some circumstances, but it's marginal. The 180 dome can't be used (vignettes too much), so I repeated the tests with my 8.5" dome. Best score was between 2 and 3 at f/11 with a total of 55mm extension and a theoretical misalignment of 4mm (meaning I needed another 4mm). But that's after removing the shade, and the port itself still vignetted a little. So I sold the lens. It is unusable for my purposes, but may suit others. I think the reason for its poor performance is its flat image plane (it is marketed as 'zero distortion' like some other Laowa WA lenses). Frankly I will avoid these for underwater use from now on. I second the comments on the Canon 8-15 with the 140. It works fine. But I long for the day when there is a useable E mount fisheye option! With AF of course... The 50 works very well behind the 140. Corners go from 1 at f/18 with a flat port, to 3+ (basically the entire frame) at f/8 with the 140. If you try to use the 90 or 100 with the 140, misalignment will be bad, due to the physical size of the lens and the location of the EP being far behind the front of the lens. Anyway I couldn't get the 90 to work, even with a larger radius 6" WA dome. Results were awful due to misfocusing. I think the problem here is that the EP is way back, and moves considerably as you focus closer. The 100 works a bit better (and the EP hardly moves), but best alignment with the 140 is theoretical -17, with total 80mm extension. It focused in water in a tub, but I didn't dive test it; opting instead to dive it with the 180 dome. There was quite a lot of misfocusing using AFC with tracking (my preference); plus a 180 dome is a bit clumsy for macro, so I won't pursue this option. Out of curiosity, I may still test it with the 140, despite the misalignment; and perhaps AFS is worth a shot. Other WA lenses (FF) I have tested with the 140 and work well (sharpness 2-3 at f/11) are the Sigma 17 and Sony 16-25. There are a variety of APS-C lenses which also work very well with the 140.

I have a +5 I would let her use. Not likely worth finding and buying a +10. I assume the reefnet version it is a handle with a 67mm threaded loupe or circle at the end. I still need to send you a DM on that port float...

I would be willing to try to fabricate one. Seems like a pretty simple idea. Could probably make it buoyant enough to balance the weight. Are you think of the +5 or +10?

Maybe see about moving this to the photography gear category. Might get a wider audience.

As Chip has pointed out several lenses both rectilinear and fisheye work better in a 140mm full or near full hemisphere domes compared to larger non-fisheye domes like the 170/180mm verity. Also Chris has eluded to the physics of virtual image in a dome port where the larger the dome port the further the virtual image is from the lens. So the closer a lens focuses the smaller the port it will focus in. For the 140mm fisheye dome my experience been that lenses that have a minimum focus distance of around 16cm or less work best. These are a few I have tested in the Marelux 140mm fisheye dome port. This is my favorite 140mm fisheye dome simply because the sun shade bayonets on and off making it easy to use underwater. Rectilinear lenses include, Laowa 10mm F/2.8 AOV 130.4 degrees, Minimum focus distance 12cm, Retail $799.00 Laowa 12mm F/2.8 AOV 122 degrees, MFD 14cm, Retail $699.00 Viltrox 14mm F/4 Air, AOV 112 degrees, MFD 13cm, Retail $199.00 (High IQ for cost and better corners than the Sony 14mm F/1.8 at MFD of 25cm and the Rokinon 14mm F/2.8 MFD of 20cm) Sony FE 16mm F/1.8 G, AOV 107 degrees, MFD 15mm, Retail $898.00 Sony FE 20mm F/1.8 and 24mm F/2.8 G lenses both focus to 18cm but at 94 and 84 degrees they will still work Fisheye lenses include Canon EF 8-15mm F/4L, AOV 180 to 175 degrees, MFD 15cm, Retail $1299.00 plus Sigma or Metabones for Sony lens converter, Nikon made an 8-15 much like the Canon but harder to fine in the used market and the Nikon to Sony converters don't work as well as those for Canon. Sigma 15mm F/2.8 EX fisheye for Canon EF, works with the same converters as the Canon fisheye zoom, AOV 180 degrees, MFD 15cm, used market. strHori 6mm F/2.8 circular fisheye, 220 degree AOV, MFD 8cm, Retail $299.00, This is an all MANUAL lens which I set to F/11 with focus pre-set for max DOF from about eight inches to beyond visibility. This port also works with macro lenses in the 50mm to 150mm range adding back original AOV, increasing corner sharpness and reducing CA.

Still looking for these in case anyone with one to sell did not see my post made during the holiday period

I could not figure out a better place to put this - I have a reefnet subsee that I don't use much. My wife is not a photographer but likes looking at macro stuff through a magnifier sometimes. I was thinking of getting the magnifier handle from reefnet so she could use my lens, but I have never seen one and cannot find a picture or description online. I am not even sure if reefnet is actually still in business so it may mot matter, although they show these as available on their rarely updated website. Anyone have any info on this thing?

FYI. I have already sold the lens, but am still interested in buying the port.

The above RAW files shows what the sensor captures. The corners are pitch black with no photons hitting them. If you have an R5 or R6 II or other full frame camera you paid a lot of money for the FULL FRAME SENSOR; and you also collect more real light when utilizing the full frame of the sensor. Lens corrections makes you throw away a substantial amount of your expensive sensor. That’s just bad! In the case of the 24-50mm STM it is really really bad and I think it’s the lens in the RF system that throws away light, the by the largest amount. It‘s almost a circular fisheye 😆 You can solve this by zooming in and get sharper corner JPEGs and RAWs.

Selling my Letonpower Sealion L24 12,000‑lumen underwater video/focus light. Used on one dive trip (~4 dives total) and in excellent, near‑new condition. Fully tested, never flooded, and maintained properly after each use. This is a complete kit with all original accessories, the original case, and four nearly‑new 18650 batteries (light uses 3 → 1 spare). Ready to dive. Included Sealion L24 12,000‑lumen video/focus light 4× 18650 batteries (~4 dive cycles each) Original protective case USB charging cable Tether Spare O‑rings O‑ring grease Manual Full original accessory kit Condition Notes Only ~4 dives Impeccable cosmetic and functional condition O‑rings cleaned/greased after each use Stored dry with caps off Beam tested: clean, even, no flicker Never flooded Why I’m Selling Consolidating my lighting kit. Price $185 shipped (US) Local pickup available in San Antonio, TX. Happy to answer questions or provide additional photos.

Absolutely stunning. I have no words. What a great job !!👏

In wintertime, when the mediterranean sea temperature drops to 13-14ºC is when the posidonia becomes greener and shorter. Not as spectacular as a coral reef but it also has its charm.

Sent you a DM regarding the Pana 8mm lens.

Yes, I know, If that 6" dome port was glass made I wold probably buy it, but it's plastic.

Hi @foetusmachine - to you get the info you want, it would be helpful if you would share specific lenses or purposes (wide angle, CFWA, macro, etc.) for which you are seeking. In addition to the Laowa 10mm Chris shared, I frequently use the Nauticam 140 with the Canon EF 8-15 with the MC-11 adaptor with my Sony a1, and Sony a7rIV previously. While not native Sony glass, this system works extremely well with the 140 dome for both wide angle and CFWA. It also works well with the Kenko 1.4x TC without significant loss of corner sharpness. In short, this is the most frequent combination and use case for the 140 dome due to the full hemispherical design. Hope this helps, chip

Thanks @Phil Rudin for the info. However, I'm wonder how the wet lens (both WWL-1B and Aquista 130) works with EF 16-35 F2.8. As most of the result I've seen are from RF-S 18-45 or RF 24-50, which is not that impressive. If that also apply to EF 16-35, then I might try to find EF 8-15 Fisheye during my trip to Japan.

Isotta dome in glass exist only in 6.5" the 6" is not glass

This is not mine, but has been posted elsewhere in the forums. A Zoom gear for the Tokina 10-17mm inside a Salted Line housing. Would be interested to know if someone here has already tried it:

I was told that new Nauticam version doesn't have the lug rig screwed to the body but machined with it, so if i find an old version second hand would be great. And the Isotta dealer in Spain doesn't recommend this 4,5" dome, he says i still will find blurry corners, a bit less that with the 4" but still a little bit. So I'm looking for different options. And today I have found this Howshot 140 mm dome ports https://www.divervision.com/products/howshot-140mm-optical-fisheye-port-for-seaandsea-nx-s120-mount-ofp-140-s120?_pos=2&_sid=f7fbcc98d&_ss=r Which is glass, and looks like the Nauticam one but for pretty much half the price, but I don't have any reference of it. So basically at this moment I don't know what to do, the only thing I know is that I need a 6" dome port neither smaller nor bigger, I prefer glass, but If I don't find anyone which fits me in terms of money I'm open to plastic domes.

I guess is it's too big for CFWA

Isotta have a 4.5"glass dome, you can also use a Nauticam 140mm dome by changing the lug ring to an Isottta/Sea and Sea lug ring.

Oups I checked it's a 6"5 "Isotta Glas Domeport 6.5" für Isotta DSLR"

I have an 6" Isotta dome to sell

Hey @kalani I'm also looking into this. Several people have used the Tokina 10-17mm in their Salted Line housing, and there is even one zoom gear available for 3D printing that can be fitted in (see here: https://waterpixels.net/forums/topic/566-salted-line-tokina-10-17mm-zoom-gear/#comment-1560). I'm currently thinking of buying a Tokina 10-17mm lens, only thing I'm not sure yet is about the fixed petal hood, which could pose a problem inside the dome port.