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I am looking for a second-hand Seacam housing for a D850 - anybody selling one? Don

expect you're right, I couldn't see the connector which is why I mentioned it.

bghazzal's pictures on previous page show the cable is just hanging, with a connector in the end so i'm sure its like my trt one, trigger in the camera hot shoe and connect it to the cables when sliding in.

You should also probably remove the trigger as well - is it an UWT trigger or some other type? What are the cables attached to?

Dont unscrew the nuts. They are part of the housing construction and holds the fiber connectors outside the housing and have o-rings in the construction. You need to just pull the led's (unless they are glued or something) out. Mine (trt) are just pushed in, not sure about other brands. Here is mine without led's:

I've received a PD power bank that looks like it could work (Anker Nano Power Bank 22.5W), and the camera should arrive in the next couple of days. To test the fit, I'll need to remove the optical cables from the A1 housing, but I'm not sure how theses work. Do I just need to unscrew the two nuts, and then the cables can be removed without any risk to the housing? Thanks

To be precise, this is actually Taiwanese OEM manufacturer Howshot (main distribution channel Divervision ) showing that their adaptor works with the Inon UFL-GR140 lens on the housing.

Found two reel with the new adaptor for the mission 1 case, inon is testing it with the ZD lens https://www.instagram.com/reel/DZCh17ZDxvX/?igsh=eHBsa2Y4cnAya2hm https://www.instagram.com/reel/DZKr4TsvwtL/?igsh=MXhnOXZ6ajM1Z3h0ZA==

Not sure where to post this, but I came across an excellent series on Disney+ from National Geographic called “Photographer”. Not technically underwater related although the first episode certainly touches on it in addition to conservation. Nat Geo Photographer

And the trigger module has to fit in the housing and I doubt it will go into the NA-6XXX series housings. It certainly will not in mine.

backscatter say their control module (another 400 quid) would let the atom work with their fancy ttl system but that makes the package quite a lot more than two ts-d3 duos

cap on duty in Tenerife

this grumpy chap’s expression summed up the dive perfectly…

Many thanks for the tips, I think I'm going to make a hole on the top of the buoy to put a light inside. Also, one of our dive partners is a biologist high school teacher, so he will love also to come with us and share his knowledge.

The Atom strobe will NOT work TTL using your Sony flash. Nor with the UW Technics trigger board. I have both in my NA-6400. And use either as strikes my fancy, when I need 100% reliability I go pop up. No, the Atom flash will not run TTL with either, it will do manual but only manual. Thus my new strobes are Retra Maxi. Which will run TTL with either my UWT board or the pop up flash equally well. And with my Canon NA-R50 also using the pop up very nicely, both TTL and manual. The YS-D3 should also be capable of supporting standard TTL via the pop up. I did not consider the YS strobes because of their poor reliability track record and because they are a marginal step up in power vs my excellent S220 strobes which also work standard TTL from a pop up or UWT trigger board.

Well the boat is big enough to dive comfortably, 2 engines, close cabin, and fuel capacity enough to sail through the islands. Anyway between Ibiza and Formentera is very shallow, not more than 50 meters, and spots with only 8 meters, plus the marine traffic, which in summertime looks like a highway, it's not the best place for BW. Instead that we think the north of Ibiza, near Tagomago, there are places with 150 meters depth and walls starting in 60 meters descending quick to 120, and it's closer to the port where the boat is based. And a lot less of marine traffic, so it's worth a try.

I'll do it when we start, and I hope I can post here some pictures.

In the past, I had some good result with a water burnt diopter using California Gold water spot remover. That product is no longer manufactured but maybe any car water spot remover could possibly do the trick. I haven't tried other products.

For what it’s worth, Nauticam (Phil) also confirmed that the coating is on the interior surface of the flat port glass, not the exterior (“The optical coating is just on the interior surface of the glass.”). I have staining or etching on mine despite not allowing water to dry on it. I tried a premixed Japanese cerium oxide paste recently, but the marks remain. I did not continue for long for fear of making things worse. As far as I can tell, the marks are not visible when the glass is wet.

Hi guys, Here is my "silly question" again. Can someone please explain the rationale behind applying the coating to the outer surface of a port? Does anyone have a technical or optical justification for this? I do not know the optical sense, but the problem with coating on outer surface is, that we clean/wipe the port after every dive. Even if we use the softest cloth available, we inevitably remove a little bit of the coating each time—however minuscule that amount may be. Unless there is some specific optical purpose for it... why put the coating on the outside of ports? However, I’m certainly open to being corrected if someone can offer a clear explanation for a reason for outer surface coating on ports. May be there is difference on super macro lenses due to optical setup. Hope someone can help. I use ceroxyd for years for my ports and my old macro wetlens and it works perfect. It removes watermarks and even tiny scraches without much effort. Also Seacam confirmed that optical coating is on the inside of the ports. Let me give you also two other example not UW related -first not from the field of optics- but still related to the loss of coatings. I had my car's paintwork treated with a very expensive ceramic coating (a very hard coating). After three years—and very few hand washes the coating was virtually gone due to the washing process and environmental exposure and it had to be reapplied. -second from my optician. I have glasses with expensive progressive lenses with hard coating for protection. My optician recommends to clean this one only with warm dishwashing liquid and use a supersoft close (no standard microfiber, no standard glasses cleaning cloths) to dry. He too, assured me that otherwise, the coating wouldn't last for a terribly long time. May be our UW camerahousing supplier have a superformula coating😁 Best regards, Markus

Thanks for the article Dan. I've also dived Liberty periodically since my AoW certification there in 2002, and seen the slow decay of the ship over the decades. I guess the statue garden on it's right side came up partially to diffuse out the crowds that dive it. Personally, I am happy to see more divers (including at the wreck) - it's good for more people to enjoy the UW experience. My solution to solving the crowd problem would be to find another old ship, and sink it off the coast, somewhere between Seraya and Liberty, haha.. Kind regards, Ajay

After I saw the article from Wetpixel , I also use DIY cables. Cables are expensive and it's hard to get in Maldives , so I 3D print the plugs and use high quality optical audio cable. this has been used with Retra , Inon, and Sea&Sea strobe and recently with the Meralex strobe with housing. Also TTL with the Retra. I don't use any glue , it's very tight and I have no problem. If anyone one need any cable in case of emergency while you are in Maldives , pls let me know , I am happy to provide for free.

good stuff!!!