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It seems a lot of value for the money. Which WA lens do you plan to use with it? I saw a small lens choice assortment on their website. They have a m43 housing too but it's a mistery which lens you can use on it. Thanks

From the chemical point of view, there is a huge difference between Cola and Baking Soda. Cola contains an inorganic acid, namely phosphoric acid, and has a pH of ~ 2.5. Bakery Soda is basic, ph of ~11.5. If modern lithium-batteries leak, when combined with water or air humidity, hydrofluoric acid can be formed. This acid cannot be neutralized with another acid (Cola), but with bases. I would, therefore, strongly recommend Baking Soda, followed by alcohol or, as a compromise, distilled water. Don't underestimate the effect of cola, as it can corrode many metals upon contact! Stay dry! Jens

Hi Kristin Over the last 25 years I've bought and sold more housing/cameras than is sane. As Chris says, it's not a happy process even when, as in each case for me, the camera and housing were in perfect condition and even when only one generation old. If you get 40% of the original value, by my experience, you have done incredibly well. 25%-30% seemed the norm. But then maybe I'm a lousy salesman. I think there comes a point where no matter how good the technology, it is way better than an individual's ability to use it. I'm a very happy owner of a Nikon D500/Subal housing which I have been using since 2017. Old technology for sure but, I have to ask myself, is there anything that this system stops me from doing or frustrates me? Ideally, yes, I'd love to have in-viewfinder review which mirrorless provides (I shoot a lot of macro/snoot so not moving my eye from the viewfinder would be great). But the cost of that one small upgrade would be crazy: new body, new housing - I suspect new lenses: $10k. Really? I'm amongst the worst when it comes to a love of new, shiny toys. But there comes a point where my better angel screams, "you are kidding, right?"

As I understand things Coca Cola is not a routine cleanup medium, I have seen people suggest using it after a Li-ion battery has been flooded and the battery compartment is full of sea water mixed with battery innards, The blend of sea water and the internal components of a Li-ion is going to be far worse than Coca Cola. The active ingredient of coke is phosphoric acid, that's why it makes tarnished coins look like new. I don't think I would put it a battery compartment unless I had a flood. You do need to consider what the strobe is made from - plastic strobes could be harmed by hydrocarbon solvents used in some contact cleaners, likewise just pouring isopropyl alcohol in is not advisable as it may react with some plastics. There was a post some years back with advice from Reef photo about what could happen to a flooded INON strobe, they said that plastic used in INONs was strong but not chemically resistant. Isopropyl should only be applied to contacts with a Q tip not poured in. IMO Coca cola would do less damage than alcohol - plastic is generally inherently resistant to acids especially relatively mild ones like phosphoric.

I think the value of something that old is just not there, even one generation old gear sells for very little. You might get lucky and get some $$ or not. I see a couple of options, Get it serviced and keep using it. Find a low actuation body as a backup. Retire it and get another system you could see what was available second hand and if you get a complete system and don't try to keep using your lenses it's probably easier to find something you like. Retire it and buy a new housing and body and try to salvage your lenses and ports. Adapting your macro lens to mirrorless may not be so great in performance though??

Thank you all again for this great advice...👍 I will take the fiberglass stick plus isopropylalcohol as first treatment and, if this is not enough, antioxidant cleaner and even coca cola... (I should add that Backscatter definitely does not recommend to use contacts cleaner and/ore coke, but what can we do when the milder treatments fail (Sevag from BS service department writes: "...I would strongly advise against using Coca Cola or anything other than either pure fresh water or isopropyl alcohol on any strobe equipment...")?)... The DeOxid Gold, recommended by Dave, is very expensive here in Europe (about 50 Euros), I found a cheaper product (produced in EU), I hope that it will work equally well: https://www.amazon.de/Kontakt-Chemie-KONTAKT-70004-AA-Kontaktreiniger/dp/B004SGL2T0/ref=ast_sto_dp_puis

Not too long back I was asking around about the Seafrogs aluminum housings because I was having a hard time finding anyone who actually was using one. Well I was only make to find one or two YouTube videos showcasing them But not a lot of info. So what do I do… I jump in both feet! I bought the SF10009 housing for my Sony a7r IV! It cannot the 230mm glass done, 55mm extension ring together as a package and for $138 more I added the flat port for my Sony 90mm lens. I also bought their cheap strobe trigger just in case I could not get a ttl trigger for it (more on that soon but spoiler alert, it looks like my best option will be a TRT s-turtle) All in the price of the entire setup was 2/3 the cost of the Nauticam housing alone! It arrived a little over a week ago and I did a long unboxing video going over my first impressions (yeah I’m definitely not a salesperson) and if you need some bedtime viewing or something to watch while getting your teeth pulled, feel free to check it out😂 On top of all this I actually had to do some ice diving with work so I took it along with me. This will be coming up in a much shorter YouTube video soon. Let’s just say no issues with the thermal differences it went through. My impression of the Seafrogs SF10009 housing… worth the money I spent on it! If you have any questions please feel free to send them My way. I enjoy helping anyone out that I can. Cheers.

I suspect your best bet is trade it in at a camera shop and use the credit for you next camera. Most big camera stores trade in second hand gear - you'll at least get something for it. If you were moving system and not going for another Canon then you could certainly also trade in any canon lenses which do hold some value. But as an underwater package Im not sure there would be much of a market.

I cannot speak for how it adapts to the Nauticam ports yet but hopefully in the near future as I expect to bring my work camera back home sometime here. What I can say is the levers and buttons have a fantastic feel to them. They are all super smooth and function absolutely amazing. I have taken the empty housing on an ice dive with me now, exposing it to temperatures from 20°C to -3°C air temperatures and then 3°C water temperatures. It worked flawlessly. I had some concerns about thermal shock given past reports of Seafrogs have not the higher quality. Well I have no concerns now. I am very impressed with the fit and finish of this housing. I did create an unboxing video (it’s not the greatest because I’m really not much of a salesman) and posted it on a YouTube channel. It has my first impressions upon opening the boxes. I will say this, I’m happy with my purchase and for half the cost of a Nauticam, it’s gonna fund my next trip! https://youtu.be/SH_JM09_Uxw?si=SRQio_drxZ1zYRLR

I have read that. Therefore, I wrote “also”. I have added a visual to confirm what has been written.

For not much more than servicing your existing housing you could probably get into a used mirrorless set-up, especially something M4/3. That would offer some of the versatility of the TG7 and stay fairly compact. You can also adapt Canon lenses fairly well. The used market cuts both ways in terms of value and so an older crop DSLR probably won't net you a ton, especially if it's overdue for a service.

The adapter just arrived today and I can confirm it works perfectly with the AOI flip holder and the CMC-1 - the flip's locking mecanism doesn't get in the way like it does with the large adapter, and I can now remove the o-ring I was using as a spacer. This adapter was designed for the SMC-1, but I think most Nauticam wet diopters share the same design (Nauticam only lists the SMC-1, but Backscatter lists a bunch of compatible Nauticam diopters on the website, MFO, CMC, SMC, etc)

I'm really hoping for some insight to if there is a market to sell the 7dmkii camera/housing or if that's just not something potentially on the table. Then it becomes is it worth it to bother with a grand or so for service or just wait it out til I buy something new. I'm happy with the baby set up until I'm not (backgrounds are so mushy/ugly if you don't make it stop down as much as it can) and battery life for video is dismal...so I do like to have a Big Rig option, too!

Yes, we did, but I had some additional info and a link to a much less expensive scratch brush than Backscatter is selling, so I thought that merited a direct response.

Yes I was unable to get a decent estimate of EP position for the Sony 90. I had 48mm from flange mount at infinity, and less than 20mm at 0.5m, where it became difficult to see and appeared to recede into the camera at closest focus. I used EP estimate of 28mm for my dive test rig, which gave no keepers with lots of mis-focusing and soft images. I recommend a flat port with this one.

Didn't we have a long thread about this with some parties claiming they go years without cleaning and its a manufacturing defect at fault? Despite the wide spread existence of gold contact cleaning products?

Hi, I realize this was posted quite awhile ago, but is this port still available?

Hi Jordan! A warm welcome to Waterpixels. Great to have you with us. I’m using the same system as you: Subal and a D500 since 2017. It’s a brilliant combination. You won’t be disappointed with it underwater.

For travel, I have a fiberglass scratch pen https://www.amazon.com/TAURISH-Fiberglass-Electronic-Applications-Corrosion/dp/B0DT9P7C62/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2V0ITNPSAKKGQ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.iQBCYi28DSmpLll6MvLJFJKIJ6ZCCW_ZiI-0WBcvdVj9F68Cv_CDYmKPUaPg7nTs6TEp5oQqQ-ij72dMbUV6-ML96Met5HW1jH9Eqlg8yV0apjNrmnNMt3iEVkM1y3US49AdqT9YuQkg1N0qslVNv4SVQxiA6ljDEwSDJX48xlVTy3CxqZA_kDIfwuVAMq2T_mPKLK0lon0hVmo4D60CzPvCahNgLA-_1bm-FHkwLTU.l035Urp2_-K0k6uiyXU0mtBZkI873uouugTlQRRclCU&dib_tag=se&keywords=scratch+brush&qid=1770322388&sprefix=scratch+brush%2Caps%2C257&sr=8-4 and some 6" bamboo cotton swabs (like long Q tips) and small bottle of 99% isopropyl alcohol. They fit in a baggy and weigh very little, and I have started doing a quick alcohol wipe of contacts when changing batteries or if on a small boat, later when back in room or whatever. Maybe overkill to clean that often, but it only takes a minute. Scratch pen would get used for a problem instead of precautionary. If the compartment had leaked water or a battery leaked, cola or water and baking soda would probably be needed. Only recently did I learn that especially with lithium ion batteries we now use, frequent cleaning of contacts is prudent https://www.sealife-cameras.com/troubleshooting-and-product-updates/sea-dragon-lights-updates/ https://thebw-100.com/the-importance-of-cleaning-electrical-contacts-to-prevent-corrosion/

Hello all, I am Jordan and I live in the state of Arizona in the USA. I started scuba diving in 2008 and began shooting photos underwater at around the same time (with a cheap underwater point-and-shoot). I've been hooked on scuba and photography ever since. I've got just over 200 dives and am certified as a PADI Open Water Instructor, although I haven't taught in quite awhile. I've been out of diving and underwater photography for a couple of years, due mostly to recovering from a forced retirement (layoff). Currently, my rig is a Nikon D500 in a Subal ND500 housing with Sea&Sea YS-D2J strobes. I've not yet taken this particular set up under water but I am getting active again, anxious to get back blowing bubbles, and am looking forward to new adventures!

awesome report and pics! definitely on our list!

Thank you so much!

I made my own reduction rings that accommodate a diy filter. Message me if you want more details.

Yes, you should. If you get an answer please let us know. I have shot MF-2 strobes with my Sony A6400 setting the UWT trigger board to 0 and using the learning function for the MF-2 strobes and of course with the strobes set to Manual. I wonder as well if he will in the future include Backscatter OM/Sony as a switch selection and as well if existing boards could be updated for that functionality.

If you follow my link above, you'll find the sentence: 'This lens is not compatible with Canon extenders.'