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Some underwater shots from the Mission 1 - seems pretty good for no lights.

Obviously, I copy/pasted the wrong title to this ad. Will try to fix it.

Sold.

This is interesting... You say the Sony 2x TC will fit into the Laowa 8-15mm f/2.8 fisheye lens? In case it fits mechanically and electronically it will be very interesting to see photois made with Sony 1.4x and 2x TCs...

Hi, @Terri , As a Sony FF (a1) owner I can confirm the Canon 8-15 with either the Metabones IV or V or the Sigma MC-11 is a great option. I personally use the MC-11, but also own / use the Metabones V. For a TC I use the Kenko 1.4x attached to the 8-15 followed by the MC-11 connected to the body. In Nauticam world, this works well with the zoom gear designed for the TC. For most dives I prefer a water optic system such as the WACP-C (dry mount) or WWL-1B (wet mount) with the inexpensive Sony 28-60 lens. This gives up to a 130 degree FoV with a nice zoom range. The Canon 8-15 is what I use for those scenes that are a bit wider such as a massive wall, large view of a wreck, or inside a wreck when I do not mind a bit of the fisheye effect altering the vertical lines. Hope this helps! chip

Hi Chris, I'm based in Coffs Harbour, a fellow OM1 shooter!

sonyalpharumors | Sony Digital Camera News7Artisans is about to release three new wide angle AF E-m...7Artisans will soon launch these three new Autofocus lenses: 10mm f/2.5 FE (Full Frame) 10mm f/4.0 E 18mm f/2.0 pancake APS-C E Here are the images: AF 10mm F2.5 full-frame fisheye autofocus lens 7Art

As I wrote, I bet PD is completely unnecessary once you have rhe internal battery and you don't need a huge powerbank to double or triple runtime

The PCB board I linked earlier would fit with next to two 18650 batteries I believe. I say 18650 as this would leave space for a battery holder so you can pull them out and place them in a separate charger. two by 3600 mAhr 18650s would give you just about 26 Whr in capacity. Of course an off the shelf model would be simpler to hook up if you can get something close in capacity.the right size. This could be close: Cygnett powerbank It has PD so doesn't need a separate PCB it seems, does 9V 2.2A so not quite up to spec for solo running but should have plenty of capacity for you.

I remember on the LX100 I, I used to switch battery on every dive for video but more to make sure I don't run out of battery while diving.

Not much getting around it, occasionally you'll find an adapter second hand, I found one at about half price. You could wait and see on the Laowa newly announced but there maybe issues. If you have any interest in using it with the Sony 2x for an extremely flexible 180°diagonal fisheye that zooms to a 28mm lens equivalent in horizontal coverage then you need the I think the latest version as the Sony 2x nose will fit inside it. Requires a custom zoom gear printed which easy enough as designs are developed and available.

Actually you're right - I just realised that I was looking at only half of the picture: I actually have twice the size, with the other half of the housing, which is completely empty... I've tested again and if I remove the strobe trigger cable I can actually fit two 21700 batteries in there! 😆 One fits even with the cables still in place... wow I'll look into available mini powerbanks, see what exists with an interesting format, and test them with the camera when it finally arrives.

When used as it is, i.e. circular fisheye and/or 180° diagonal fisheye, it is certainly an advantage (in case optical IQ is o.k.). I see no way to use TCs, therefore still no substitute for Canon 8-15mm & adapter...

I see the Canon 8-15 with Metabones adapter is highly recommended with the Sony FF. Is this the way to go? Adapter is pricey. Thx

I could be wrong but from the photo it seems it's a plastic/metal mix construction while the MF version is totally metal.

A normal PCB is few mm long and maybe 1or 2 mm high. You have a kitchen, a bedroom and a living room inside there :) You could probably go with an off the shelf mini powerbank. I agree with Chris and if I may, I will share my experience with the GH5M2, which has a USB-C port and whose manual states the need for a USB-PD charger etc, and all the comments on Reddit indicated the need for specific chargers to work. I did two very simple tests at home with what I had. A 10y old, small, completely normal power bank connected with the camera battery inserted. It works perfectly. The same thing with an old Samsung phone charger. One of those 1.5Ah@5V ones. With a very small power bank, I got more than 3 hours of continuous recording. Basically, I filled up the card. I also tried the All-I 400Mbps codec and it works. The necessary current is supplied by the internal battery, and the power bank recharges it. The same thing also works with GoPros, which are much more difficult and picky with the input current. The trick is always the internal battery. I used them for long timelapses or for long recordings in the river. A 18650 + GoPro battery allow up to 4h 30m of runtime at 4k@25p with a high bitrate. The exact same thing happens in both the GH5 and the GoPro. You will see that the charging symbol is active and the battery stays at 100% while the power bank drains into it. When the power bank is exhausted, the battery starts to drain. TL;DR Just try on your kitchen table with a normal power bank.

I dove today with two HF-1s and the floats. They both worked well and retained integrity. The overall rig was basically neutral and just slightly negative. However, with the two strobes extended forward of the port, the system wanted to roll backwards. With neutral floats and my ULCS float arms, the extended arms were a bit too floaty and torqued upward. With the strobes in-line with the housing it was balanced. I am going to make another change and make the floats a little smaller and less buoyant by about 25 grams each. I think that will result in just a little better balance.

I haven't removed the flash trigger cables yet, but I can fit 2 to 3 AA batteries, either vertically or horizontally. Not much room for a PCB though. There is an angle but I measure roughly 40mm depth for 45mm width

It seems it is reported that the 9v/3A supply is required for solo operation without a battery and if the a lesser power bank is hooked up it will just top up of supplement the battery but won't attempt to run the camera solo. One way to test is to connect a power bank of 7.2V output to the camera and see if it will operate and draw down the battery bank. Given the limitations of the space available in the housing it's likely a custom solution is needed and it only needs to supplement the main battery. The link above to the module would work but looking at the size of it I suspect you have trouble squeezing it in. I had a look and had trouble finding a lower power smaller module, maybe the wrong search terms?? I would guess a 10W module would do the job if the camera is happy just receiving a trickle charge as it runs. I found some phone charger module which I would guess might work: ali express to use you would need to wrap it it and solder on positive and negative wires and plug in a USB C cable with the right spec. A good way to start would be work out what size and how many batteries might fit in the available space. You could use a AA battery to gauge what might fit.

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Ergonomics - This was from a discussion on whether to choose the LX100 series or the LX10. The Lumix LX10 does all this but doesn't need short ports (see the housing pics), and the form factor is easier in the housing. I've also been using the LX10 for a while and it's an amazing camera for video, within its limitations of course. Crop to 36mm 4K on a 1" means you can reach macro and above with strong diopters (shaun the sheep are fine) - here are some LX10 clips of mine, with strong macro (hairy shrimps, turnicate shrimp, sea dragon or skeleton shrimp clips for instance). On the LX10, I also I use the Inon UWL-H100 with the dome port for WA now, and it's fantastic (most of the wide clips were shot before I had the dome port for the wide lens), and have diopters and WA lens on a dual flip holder so can go from supermacro to wide on the same dive (in practice it's not so extreme, I just shoot medium to macro with the widelens as well and get closer with a +6 diopter, saving the +15 / CMC1 for truly macro focused dives, on which I don't bring the wide lens). The LX10's single 67mm threaded port is just very practical for a compact camera. All this would be tricky on the LX100 given the port question. I also run Cine-D on the LX10 (sure the LX100 can handle it as well). If it had auto-ISO video mode, 10-bit colour and 4K60fps, it would be the perfect mini-GH5 Now this doesn't make the LX100 series or its L10 replacement bad at all (it does have a larger sensor than the LX10's 1", and the L10 tops both), they're all excellent, but between the two the LX10 was just more practical for video, which is why I went with it instead of the LX100 M2, and I do agree with Backscatter's comment. The L10 is a fantastic looking camera, but camera ergonomics and housing are the same as the LX100 series, so it will face the same issues. I would still definitely buy it as an upgrade to the L100 or LX10 though, but I'm on the full-frame path now. One big question on all compact cameras for video is battery life. Compact form means not much space in the housing, and smaller batteries. I'm a total power-miser on the LX10, and have learned to make it last, but really looking forward to a little more headroom! cheers

Aloha and welcome @kc_moses Congratulations on your retirement!

Thanks, I'll look into these. Related info I found in the In the A7SIII manual is as follows: Use the USB Type-C terminal to supply power and charge the battery pack. SuperSpeed USB 5 Gbps (USB 3.2) USB Power Delivery compatible Operation with all USB-PD-compatible devices is not guaranteed.
 We recommend using a USB-PD-compatible device with an output of 9V/3A Camera's battery pack: Rated voltage: 7.2V In the 2020 Reddit thread Chris posted, people mention that 9V/3A (27W, which is high) might be a a rounded up figure to cover a max power draw situation. Some people had success, in 2020, with Anker power banks.

The LX100 is actually a very capable video camera so I don't know why the Backscatter comment of frustrating. I have been using LX100 since it first came out, here is the result, white balance is a breeze, focus peaking to make sure things are focus: The LX100 has advantage of adding a crop factor when shooting 4K video, I think the 75mm ended up about 95mm, combine with diopter (+5, +10, +15) you do get decent macro result (not enough for "shaun the sheep nudibranch" if you look at my other nudibranch video). I made a stupid mistake of not removing the short port for a few weeks after diving so now the short port has fused together with my Nauticam housing, to the point that it's impossible to remove it. So, L10........ It's an excellent replacement for the LX100 in the video department. Here is why: It has 5.6K and 4.4K 60-120fps capability, so you can punch in to get tighter view of the subject in post. Video quality of 10-bit 4:2:2 compare to the 8-bit 4:2:0 in the LX-100. The 5.6K and 4.4K video can compensate the lack of IBIS by using the workflow of adding "Senseflow + Gyroflow" processing by adding a goPro or use something else (let me know if you want me to explain that further). The L10 is expensive (US$1500), so best to wait until it goes on sales. The Nauticam housing for L10 is US$2200, a bit steep but it should be able to use the same port from LX-100 (i.e. N50 system). So if you shot with LX-100 before, it's a good echo system to upgrade to. The L10 is not weather seal and dust shouldn't an issue. With my LX-100, it either stays in a camera pouch or inside the Nauticam housing during dive trip. Anything on land, I just have my GH4 because it's more flexible for timelapse, attach ND/CPL filter and deal with different lens. I live about 15 minutes away from Reef Photos, once they have the housing and camera in the shop around mid June, I will stop in to check it out in person and get answers about all the questions I have, such as which wide angle port to use now that there is no crop factor when shooting video.