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Hey @Mark Chivers Do you still have the strobes ? I'll send you a DM.

Hi CRobinson! A warm welcome to Waterpixels! Great to have you with us. we hope you really enjoy the forum. Best wishes Tim

Hi all. I'm a PADI instructor (now in non-teaching status) and photographer formerly from SoCal and now residing in the wilds of the mid-Atlantic region. I'm happy to have found this community and I hope to be able to contribute to and learn from everyone here.

Hi @atus great question! I travel frequently and basically do not carry a laptop any longer. Lightroom mobile is incredibly powerful! There is a tiny learning curve as the interface is a bit different than the classic version, but basically all you typlically will need is included. Equipment: iPad Pro - 11” 2022 w M1. (Currently M4 at the same price i paid) Enough memory cards to not require reuse during the trip (fairly cheap now) An SSD (I use a 1TB Samsung T7 or T9) USB-C dongle w/ card slot, plug for SSD cable, and power connection plug Strategy: Each night upload all photos/videos to SSD using dongle w card inserted Do not format card (super important for redundancy) Upload some of my favorite images to Lightroom mobile Edit as desired Repeat daily For return trip, pack memory cards and SSD in different bags to preserve full redundancy (I.e. cards in my backpack and SSD with in my dive bag or other carry on) Once home, import remaining images from SSD Rename all to desired trip name w date, sequence numbers, etc. Duplicates of previously uploaded images will not upload again All edits made during the trip will sync so long as you have the feature enabled Any edits that require additional plugins can then be made on the home computer. Once redundant images are no longer needed, format the memory cards and reuse. Do the same with SSD as desired and/or fits in your normal workflow I am a Mac person which is why I use an iPad. If you use Windows, the Surface would also be a perfect choice. Either way, a laptop is no longer required to have a successful, connected trip. Traveling light is incredibly lberating! Enjoy! Chip

Lens holder on cross bar

Thanks Dreifish, the above is something I did notice on the HF-1 but not on the Apollo III 2.0 that I happen to own. This is why I recommended to get your strobe checked. I am aware that the 2.0 in official documents just refers to the wireless protocol but from what you describe, I would not rule out that there is also other improvements in the product or the chance that you received a „Monday model“ series, as we say in Germany. The findings in Kiliis and Henley Spiers reviews that included Apollo also point into that direction, that it‘s not flawed. Have a look at the Henley wall projection MTL 12 (full power in fast mode, that is): source: DivePhotoGuide.com The variations or blackouts I get on my two HF-1 strobes (and the HF-1 of my friend) are extreme compared to the Apollo III 2.0 - pretty much like the the Retra and OneUW blackouts and light variations in the DPG reviews. I used the fully charged recommended batteries that are in the Backscatter manual for the fast shooting high fps test. Another potential conflict I would like to put the spotlight on is the fps you can set in the cameras vs what the strobe manufacturers guarantee you. I think MARELUX will grant you 10 fps solid according to their manual in full MTL power. But like your camera I just have the option available to to do 7 fps or 12 fps on my R6 Mark II. That said, the Apollo‘s kept up with Zero blackout frames @ 12 fps. I explored that mystical feature further by digging into the real net frame rate that our Canon cameras will offer. Canon says the fine wording „up to“ depending on settings and batteries used etc. When shooting a stop watch on my iPhone at the high fps setting I found that the camera actually varies in speed between 10.5 to 12 fps in series burst shooting with strobes. This explains to me why the Marelux Apollo III strobes on my desk seem to be able to easily keep up with this pace. It looked like camera and strobes could do this endlessly forever so I stopped the test after a few hundred RAW .CR3 frames and seconds. Coming back to the HF-1 and blackout frame behavior there is also a 2nd source online confirming my experience with the other pretty fast strobe in the leading gang,… Nicolas Remy digged into the high fps possibilities of the HF-1 and also confirmed blackout frames and light Variations, which I do not experience with Apollo III 2.0 in MTL. Have a look: Full HF-1 review on: theunderwaterphotographyclub Hybrid Flash HF-1 Table 2: Hybrid Flash recycle times and number of flashes at the three most powerful settings (source: Backscatter) Power Setting Burst Speed Light Decrease Between Shots Number of Flashes Before a Black Frame Frequency of Black Frames After First One Total Number of Shots Taken Comment 1/4 10fps Smooth 9 Every 2–3 shots 49 1/4–0.5 f-stops 10fps Smooth 14 Every 2–3 shots 42 1/8 10fps Very smooth 43 None 43 1/4 8fps Smooth 16 Every 4 shots 37 1/4 6fps Very smooth 24 None 37 Decrease during first 24 shots, then stable 1/2 5fps Smooth 5 Every 1–2 shots 26 1/2 4fps Very smooth 7 Every 3 shots 25 1/2 3fps Very smooth 13 None 25 Decrease during first 13 shots, then stable F 3fps Noticeable 2 Every second shot 15

Thanks for this, though possibly better 18650 batteries may now be available? I suspect you method has some validity, if the strobe has more power in your test it probably is also brighter in comparison for a quick burst, but I guess it depends on how the strobe is programmed to deal with continuous shots. In addition using 3 18650 (assuming) in series, the voltage is higher so less demanding on amp draw.

This is exactly what I did back in 2024 when I was testing the strobes. I chose continuous shooting rates my Canon could support (3fps, 6fps and 12fps) and then for each strobe dialed down the power until it could keep up with that frame rate without any black frames for at least 20 frames in a row. Once I established what the setting/power level on the strobe was, I measured the GN of the strobe firing at that setting. What I observed is that while it's indeed true that some strobes prioritize firing on each shot even at lower power (HF-1) while others (Apollo III in MTL) prioritize trying to keep all exposures evenly lit by not firing at all on some exposures to fully recharge their capacitor before firing, the end result once you dial down the power sufficiently is the same and indistinguishable -- a series of shots that are all lit with minimal exposure variance. The other thing I noticed is that pretty much every strobe starts out brighter for the first 2-3 shots in the series and gradually dims until shot 10 or so in the series after which it basically settles into a steady-state brightness for the following 20 shots. I measured the brightness based on those latter 20 shots where the shot-to-shot variance was low. I'll be the first to concede that this is more of a technical capability test than a real life test, in that probably if you're really shooting high frame rates to capture behavior, what you care about is the first 10 shots, not the tail end when the strobe settles into steady-state. And there may be real difference in how each strobe handles those first 5-10 shots. I wasn't testing for that per se. Finally.. yes, I had one of the earliest production batches of the Apollo III strobe, before they came up with a 2.0 version. But as far as I know, the 2.0 version is physically identical, the only changes are to the wireless control protocols. Light output and recycling time should be the same between the two models. (Gemini claims: The main difference between the Marelux Apollo III and the Marelux Apollo III 2.0 is the updated wireless communication system and internal software that improves stability for various flash modes. The 2.0 version was primarily introduced to allow better integration with the Lumilink 2.0 wireless transmitter.) My theory is that the HF-1 is able to put out more power in high frame rate mode because of better batteries -- I was using the HF-1 with the nitecore 6000mah 21700 batteries, while the Apollo III had 3 generic 18650 batteries that it came with. Believe the 21700 batteries are just newer/better technology.

edge at the moment, it's a work machine, usually use firefox on home machine, won't be home for a few days yet. I can post some examples. Edge claims to be fully colour managed. checking on this page confirms fully colour managed: Is your system ICC Version 4 ready?

I haven't controlled the images on my Macbook Pro/Safari (gonna do it tomorrow), but on my Win11/Eizo machine I can see significant differences in all images. Which browser are you using?

You are exactly describing the reasons for my position on this issue. 😉

I fully agree this idea... I'm using since years now Suface Pro. I have the last model with Intel Processor... with 1 TB HD...Good screen light and It is a REAL PC under Windows 11.

Facebook applies its own profile to save storage space. This forum also does some things to images including stripping metadata and for some reason images I upload from my Win 10 desktop have the life sucked out of them , while images I upload from my win11 laptop look a lot better. I can see very little difference between the two in these examples, which could be due to what the forum software does to the images?

You could get a microsoft surface pro, they are close to a tablet in size, even with the keyboard cover, then you have a full featured system and can use regular applications to do your sorting and keywording.

This has all been sold. Thanks to all!

I think it's this one. Youhave endless combinations. FLEX-ARMStaffa Subacquea Action Cam con Barra Cross BarStaffa Subacquea Action Cam con Barra Cross Bar

Two months ago Ikelite service charged my friend money and returned a broken and improperly assembled housing. And they would not even replace the broken hotshoe cable without an additional charge. Ikelite used to have fantastic customer service, but this experience puts that very much in question.

If you have an Android phone and a corresponding LR subscription, you can test the workflow before buying a tablet; it works exactly the same on a phone as on a tablet.

Hi Atus, In principle, such a workflow is possible with the mobile version of Lightroom. I've done it myself on several trips and vacations. I worked with a 2018 iPad Pro, but I think it should also work with Android tablets. The basic requirement is a Lightroom subscription with sufficient storage space, or enough storage space on the tablet. I don't think it's possible any other way these days. After taking the photos, the images are imported directly into Lightroom on the tablet and copied to the tablet. (I worked exclusively with RAW files.) Afterward, I usually did a rough sort of the images with Wi-Fi turned off, i.e., without internet access, and immediately deleted the unusable ones. Unfortunately, using keywords doesn't work yet, as far as I know. Therefore, I focused on star ratings. As soon as the tablet has an internet connection, the original RAW files are uploaded to the Adobe server, so you essentially have a backup. Almost all image development options are also available on the tablet. When I get home, I launch Lightroom Classic, and all my RAW files, including star ratings and any other developments, are downloaded from the Adobe server and saved to a specific location. Once everything is downloaded, I move it all to the correct location within my file structure and can then delete the space it's using on the server. This workflow works perfectly for me. I even created a tutorial for it. I should probably double-check everything, though, since there have been a few Lightroom updates. Cheers, Tino

I'm a bit tired of traveling with my laptop and I would like to downsize a little bit, so I was thinking in using a tablet, but I don´t know how LR works with it. I don't need to edit with IA, just basic adjustments. My ideal is when on a dive trip, after the last dive and with a beer in my hands I download the pictures to the laptop well organized and with keywords to find everything, sometimes I order another beer and i start doing basic adjustments to a picture, not more. And when finally at home I move the files from my laptop to the NAS, everything trough LR in order to don't lose the files. I would like to do the same but with a Tablet. I don't know if this is possible and what kind of tablet should I buy, I don't want to spend a lot of money. Also the tablet must be Android.

If looking at more budget friendly options I'd take one of the new aluminum Seafrogs over an Ikelite.

She used the word "epic-ness" and at which point, despite taking Dramamine, I barfed 🤮.

🤣

Can't defend or discuss a user's experience although I read of problems with wiring, flash triggers (especially!) and controls on all brands..... Only point I'm making is any "older" and I mean anything 3-5-??? years back housings don't have as much validity of current offerings. Anyone care to discuss RETRA having to shut down for over a YEAR their production due to floods, not working properly, etc.? Now they're all 1000% perfect is all I'm saying. Time if needing service is another consideration. Isotta in Italy and Europe, Ikelite in mainland USA, etc. as examples....... Not trying to start a flame war, I'm just sharing a low cost option especially to Kristin who's in the Canon camp already. The Canon R10 and R7 small DLM housings are MUCH more affordable is all and the Dry Lock Mirrorless port system will hold up to any conditions. Practically leak proof..... I understand people will always want to use specific lenses and any housing manufacture can't test every single lens to perfection. As stated I'm not touting my choice but only my personal observations in recent use of an Ikelite DLM Canon housing. This housing also fits the FULL FRAME Canon R8 which is a bargain Full Frame model. Buy whatever you like is my recommendation :) David Haas \\

Curious, what upper cross piece is that?