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Love this option. Talked to the folks at Yellow Diving and now just have to figure out how to get it from Poland to the USA. If anyone has suggestions I'm all ears. Poland post isn't shipping the the US, UPS/Fedex/DHL Express are extremely expensive. Grrr.

Quick update. Shipped a new Mac version with HW acceleration that massively speeds things up. Shipped the new tagging structure. Working on Windows HW acceleration. Found a few bugs in the species matching pipeline that disproportionately affected certain marine species and will roll out that fix shortly. Did some tuning of the sharks and rays detector that is resulting in much better matches. Lots of little workflow changes as well. The beta is currently full but please still apply if you have expertise in nudibranchs or are into kelps/sea grasses.

Hi Ben, Welcome aboard!

Hi, I'm Ben from Switzerland. I dive since quite many years now, but mostly only a few weeks per year, like 1 or 2 or 3 weeks, depending on the holidays plans. I recently put a few of my underwater pictures online there : https://www.b3no.ch/photos/underwater/ Actually, I also put my full divelog online (the pictures of each pages the logbook themselves), and also some technical data extracted automatically from the pictures (tech data + marine life seen and other comments). This does include also some computer data, which generates the dislplay of the dive profile. Actually, I think that one of the the nice feature of this small personal website is that the photos on the site, are matching a dive #number in the divelog, and then, based on the EXIFS of the photography and the dive-computer data that are cross-checked, it's able to draw a small point on the dive-profile showing when the picture has been taken and at what depth. So those are all static data, and I have build scripts that generates the webpages automatically. The comments and descriptions are mainly in french, but there are also plenty of other data understandable for non-french-speaking person. For example this is my last dive in Marsa Nakari, south of Egypt, a few weeks ago : https://www.b3no.ch/divelog/445/ And on that divelog page, it's matching 3 pictures from the galleries. The pictures are displayed on top the divelog page, it automatically writes the depth, and then a few tech data and notes extracted from the logbook, Then some marine life information also taken from the logbook. And finally a screen capture of my logbook. My dive buddies and I love to stamp our logbooks, and especially for that last dive of the holiday week, you can see a lot of personal stamps and personal messages on those captures of the logs. Also EXIFs are available when a picture is magnified. Cheers, ben

Here a written review from Alex Mustard on the OPP: https://www.amustard.com/seacam_opp/?fbclid=IwY2xjawRWpYtleHRuA2FlbQIxMABicmlkETF5VlZybEI5M2VkM3Z6VkRVc3J0YwZhcHBfaWQQMjIyMDM5MTc4ODIwMDg5MgABHrL_VAnrzLArTrNKHmqNk-rDr0RmjPEwp192aXJj4wLj6gI8B89VBYkxx2KB_aem_JeinsEUaFTq2fWVTuFXrHg (Now the question for me is, whether and how I could use the OPP with my Nauticam Sony A7R5 housing and with wich lens - it seems to be a great alternative to the WACP-C... 🙂)

You could probably forget about macro lenses then, a 24-70 or 24-105 in a small dome sounds about right??, anything shorter focal length the performance is probably compromised in a small dome. The 180mm Nauticam or 170mm Zen is a known quantity in the port charts, the 140mm should work but you may or may not be happy with it at 24mm, which you might want if the fish let you get close. I suspect the scoot to the general vicinity and stow the the DPV might be the productive option?

I've used one of these with triple clamps on both ends and then a ball in the center to mount. It works just fine. https://ulcs.com/product/db-cb10-double-ball-crossbar-arm/ I replaced it with a marelux cross bar which is more rigid and I like it more, but likely won't work with your hand strap. The CB10 was very flexible on how it was used. It does look like your red arm is threaded - so you could just mount a 1" ball in the center and put two (maybe longer) clamps on either side and you would be golden.

Another 8-15 +1.4tc shot that I really like from God's Pocket. A close-focus-wide-angle shot of a decorator crab on a sponge. Decorator crabs have a lot of personality and cover themselves is clever ways to match their environment. These crabs are specially tailoring their camouflage to incorporate parts of the sponges they are living on. Nikon Z8 w/8-15mm Fisheye lens + 1.4TC, f5.6@1/50s iso100, Pair of Retra Maxi strobes with 4500k filters

In my experience the dome doesn't have anywhere near as much drag as the strobes and arms. Maybe because it rides within the bow-wave of the DPV? But also I'm using smaller than 180mm so far.

Welcome to the group. If you need a complete underwater camera rig, look at my posting. I am selling my underwater system because I got a new camera and housing. Again, welcome!!!

It is the Sony 20-70mm f/4 G lens. It is not of the highest optical quality (Sony labels such lenses with "GM"), but is regarded a decent performer... Here you can find serious over-water reviews of both Sony 20-70mm and the Canon 8-15mm. The reviews state that both lenses are very sharp (but one cannot directly compare the absolute values in lp/mm, since the Canon values were measured on a completely different camera/sensor): https://www.lenstip.com/643.1-Lens_review-Sony_FE_20-70_mm_f_4_G_Introduction.html https://www.lenstip.com/311.1-Lens_review-Canon_EF_8-15_mm_f_4_L_Fisheye_USM_Introduction.html My "ratings" of the UW performance of different lens/port/water contact optics combinations are based on dozends, sometimes hundreds of dives and are completely subjective. No test carts and/or measurements, motifs and conditions are always different. It is a pity that the companies that develop and sell domeports and water contact optics do not make their measurements/test chart photos, that they certainly have, accessible to the potential customers (I suspect they have reasons)... Here links to some UW photos I made with Sony 20-70mm and some other combinations discussed here: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/threads/sample-photos-from-sony-20-70mm-f-4-and-a7r5-uw.4724115/ https://www.dpreview.com/forums/threads/canon-8-15mm-fisheye-lens-with-sony-2x-tc-on-sony-a7r5-sample-photos-part-1.4779356/ https://www.dpreview.com/forums/threads/canon-8-15mm-fisheye-lens-with-sony-2x-tc-on-sony-a7r5-sample-photos-part-2.4779452/ https://www.dpreview.com/forums/threads/canon-8-15mm-fisheye-lens-with-sony-2x-tc-on-sony-a7r5-sample-photos-part-3.4779455/ No, I never used them. I could spot several WACP-1s at UW photography workshops and immediately was sure that I do not want to deal with such big staff (I find the "compact" WACP-C version already big and heavy enough)...

Very interesting Wolfgang, even though I am not a Sony User but this would supports the initial thesis of a very good air based „exit-glas“ (lens) bringing the right photons to the table 😉 Could you specify with a link which Sony 20-70 exactly you mean? Also interesting that you consider the 8-15mm a slightly less sharp performer. Have you ever used/tested WACP-1 oder WACP-2, Wolfgang and an impression on that one to compare?

Apprecaite all the advice! I will definitely make sure my camera setup and DPV and independently neutrally buoyant. They are big fish by my standards: 2-3ft (1m) in length. Planning on shooting from the scooter and also to detach and shoot but really not sure how easy it will be, how the fish will react, etc., but training should help with calmly removing the camera and re-attaching it. Based on my experience with other fish I tend to think they won't mind much but only time will tell...nothing with animals every goes accoding to plan. Typically I've shot fish with the WACP-1, I love sharp wide angle and that's my favorite lens but it's very hefty and not hydrodynamic so trying to understand how realistic it would be to use it before getting in the water and testing in the coming weeks. I guess anything will move through the water if you try hard enough :)

Macro port is pending, zoom gear and lens still available.

I'll try once more locally, if this one breaks as well then I'll consider other options. I'm not very confident the local people have their printer settings correct 😅

I think you originally mentioned photographing fish, I would think perhaps that might be the starting point - are they big fish or small fish? what sort of focal length do you need? If they are smaller a short macro lens might work, though Canon doesn't have one for full frame. If they are bigger perhaps a 24-105 behind an 180mm dome or the Zen 170mm dome but that's only marginally smaller than an 8"dome. A macro lens would the most streamlined option of course with a flat port. Would a 60mm equivalent macro work? you could do that with a 100mm macro and MFO3. You could also try a 24-105 behind a 140mm dome. The 24-105 is on the port chart with the 180mm dome, but not the 170mm or 140mm. The 140mm and 230mm domes use the same extension. The lens extends a long way at max zoom so may hit the dome glass in smaller domes. With the 140mm dome the corners might be pretty bad between 24 and 30 to 35mm zoom. If photographing fish my main concern would be that if you need to fluff around to remove the camera from the scooter and then stow the scooter the fish might disappear in the mean time so shooting with camera on scooter might be the best option unless you travel to an area detach and search for targets without the scooter.

I have the same monitor and I use the cold shoe on top of my housing with a long clamp. On my previous jousing I had a 10Bar crossbar but I had to change the 1" ball mounts on the housing.

I just use a single standard clamp to the third ball mount on my housing, but it looks as if yours has two "inner" ball mounts. I have a braided handle that attaches via shackles to the holes on the back of that upper plate.

Hi Rustico, Welcome aboard!

M43 user here. I used the 7-14 mm and 6" dome or 14-42 mm and WWL-1. Regardless of the lens/dome combination used the most important thing is a neutral buoyancy camera setup. Of course, a large dome will create more drag. It depends on the scooter too... 😉

Aloha and welcome @DrewK !

Is there any sort of mounting point on the back of the monitor? Or I guess to short float arms to a triple clamp could work. Just trying to think of ways which then don't need even more flotation to compensate for.

Update I can confirm that Extension #48462 (39.5mm) is the correct extension for the Nikon Z 14-30mm f/4 using Port #18414 on an Aquatica AZ8. The sharpness was as expected at the edges at f4 and f8 with no vignette.

I certainly could look at attaching. A rigid float arm to the centre of the rig and then the monitor above, if that's what you mean. The monitor is negative 260g, which I can compensate for quite easily. I think I need to play about with the few ideas, but that may very well work. Thanks

This is a situation where some sort of mount fabricated to fit on a rigid float arm might be an option, especially since the monitor is quite negative. How much freedom of movement do you need?