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Seems like a good value-oriented option. 7" min focal distance over 11" on the Sony 12-24 f/2.8 is potentially interesting, although only f/16 vs. f/22 on the Sony for stopping down. Similar strategy to the Sony 90 vs the Tamron 90. It would be interesting to give it a try in the wild. Thanks @Davide DB for sharing!

The 14-30 is not quite as wide as the 24-50+wwl. It would be equivalent to app. a 11-31. It has a light barrel distortion at 24. You can unscrew the wwl uw and shoot the 24-50 behind the flat port, if you’d find a suitable situation for that. Slightly bent curves @24

yes that will work, the port chart may or may not apply for port length, I don''t recall exactly though I think I remember hearing they do. You could ask Isotta? They are fairly responsive.

Does any of our EU members have by any chance a spare length of Asahi MCQ-1000 fibre optic cable, ie the sort we ordered from the US? I lost all my cables and spares in the fire in the Maldives and am trying to rebuild my gear. I just cannot find it in the EU despite contacting various fibre optic companies. I know I could use Toslink etc, but the Asahi cable has always worked so well for me I'd like to use that if I can. One metre would be great! Happy to pay costs/shipping (to Amsterdam) of course. Thanks!

According to the posting below, Sea & Sea ports can be used on Nauticam housings via adaptors or minor exchanges at the ports basis:

...wait a minute. If Isotta takes S&S ports directly, does it work the other way around too? Can I use Isotta ports on my S&S housing? And in that case, could I use the Isotta solution for WWL-C on my S&S housing? Then it would still be my Z7 camera, but vastly cheaper.

That's very good intel, thanks! There are reasons for looking at Nauticam specifically, namely what's carried by retailers in my not-really-neighborhood. But I'll definitely investigate the Isotta alley.

Hi, just for curiosity: what about the Minimum Focussing distance (MFD) of the lens? With the very small domes positioned on the entrance pupil, the positioning problem is solved; but not the focussing distance of the virtual image, I think. So it’s very likely these macros cannot utilize their full focus range, or do they? Did you guys add any diopters to the lens to solve that?

The problem with a single lens holder and two lenses is you need to put the lens you take off somewhere as your other hand is holding the rig, The problem with the wet WA lens sitting on the hotshoe is you will be doing this when you are trying to shoot macro and aiming the rig will be more difficult when you are in close to your subject. You could consider the 3D printed wrap around strobe floats for your strobes - they look like HF-1s, there is a design someone has come up with on this site for this.

This is something you can buy - I believe this is the sort of thing that will work: Bluewater PhotoSaga 67mm Flip Lens Adaptor for Subal Standard PortSaga 67mm Flip Lens Adaptor for Subal Standard Port - this great holder turns any port with a 67mm thread into a flip adapter for your macro lens. Looks like it is a push fit with o-ring inside. Probably need to double check if it fits her particular port.

You could also consider Isotta for a Z8, they take all of of your S&S ports directly so no need to buy new ports and they also have a port chart for using Nauticam wet lenses like the WWL-C with their system. I expect you would just be up for new zoom gears. Here is the port chart for Nauticam lenses: Nauticam Wet lens chart - Isotta

Unfortunately my recommendations are not up to date, but do look into the operators mentioned above Junk and Phinisi were 18 guests max for instance: https://thejunk.com/liveaboards/the-phinisi/ not sure how many guests on Big Blue's new Blue Dolphin, but they downsided IIRC https://www.bigbluedivingkhaolak.com/similan-liveaboard/ also check the Deep Andaman Queen https://www.deepandamanqueen.com/ and Smiling Seahorse https://www.thesmilingseahorse.com/

No problem. I suppose I should have mentioned that I calculated the center of curvature of the Zen dome to be around 64mm from the base of the dome, just in case anyone wants to use the Zen dome for other port designs.

I have one, but I much prefer the 90 finder. The 180 at least for what I shoot is a bit hard for me to find things with. Bill

Thanks for sharing! I will try adding another 20mm ring and do some pool tests with both 79mm and 59mm. (19 + 20 + 40)

For what it's worth, here's an image illustrating some of the key distances from when I made a dome port for the Nikon 60mm for Matthew Sullivan. To optimize image quality, you want the center of curvature of the dome to be aligned with the entrance pupil of the lens. I measured the Nikon 60mm entrance pupil to be around 34-42mm behind the front of the lens (it varies with focus distance, so I went with a central value of 38mm). As an aside, the photons to photos optical bench theoretically puts the entrance pupil a few millimeters farther back (I'm not sure which is more accurate). Anyway, Matt has said that this setup is exceptionally sharp edge to edge, so the design seems to have worked out correctly.

Hi Dave, I will check spherical diameter for my dome and report to you later this week

In the meantime we have a specific thread with some clever DIY ideas...

Oh, update to this. Sea&Sea are late. No new flat port sighted.

Hi! I'm here for my sort of bi-annual visit. Today about wide-angle shooting. Today I use a Sea&Sea housing with a Nikon Z7. For wide and not-so-wide angle I have three lenses, all with appropriate ports. The 8-15 fisheye on FTZ, with a small dome port. The 14-30/4 with Sea&Sea correction lens, with a large glass dome port. The 24-70/4, with the same glass dome port. This one is rarely used but could potentially be good for eg shy sharks. I have, once again, started considering switching to a Nauticam housing to go with my Nikon Z8. This would require new ports all around (also for macro which I don't even go into here). For WA I would then use the 24-50 lens, which I already own, together with a nauticam WWL-C wet lens. I'm hoping this would more or less (not quite) cover all my three lenses of today. It seems to have about the same angular coverage as the 14-30, though with a distortion profile somewhere bewtween rectilinear and fisheye - correct? If there's a shy shark, I should be able to flip the WWL-C away and shoot at 50 mm through just the flat port, right? (You might say, if it's that far away, don't bother to take the shot, but oh yes I would take the shot.) Fisheye - well it's obviously not as wide as the fisheye, I would have to dive with the WWL-C and see if I'm happy or if I want a fisheye port too. Expected pros with this switch: Would be able to use my Z8 underwater, with better AF than my Z7. Would get access to the front buttons on my camera (I think?), which my Sea&Sea housing does not allow. Significantly reduced weight and bulk when travelling, which is important. (Unless compared to only bringing the fisheye with today's equipment, that's probably similar) Expected cons with this switch: Hugely expensive, as these things are measured by my humble circumstances Have I missed or misunderstood anything important?

Aloha and welcome @gnarliest_gnome You're going to like the interchangeable lens OM cameras. Nice photos with the TG!

I have been working on designing a tripod for 3D printing that uses ball end arms for the legs. I have one done but have not gotten it in the water yet to test (although it works on land where the rig is even heavier than in the water, so I suspect that it will be strong enough). Since it hasn't been tested properly, I have not posted it to Thingiverse or MakerWorld yet, but I probably should.