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No problem. I suppose I should have mentioned that I calculated the center of curvature of the Zen dome to be around 64mm from the base of the dome, just in case anyone wants to use the Zen dome for other port designs.

I have one, but I much prefer the 90 finder. The 180 at least for what I shoot is a bit hard for me to find things with. Bill

Thanks for sharing! I will try adding another 20mm ring and do some pool tests with both 79mm and 59mm. (19 + 20 + 40)

For what it's worth, here's an image illustrating some of the key distances from when I made a dome port for the Nikon 60mm for Matthew Sullivan. To optimize image quality, you want the center of curvature of the dome to be aligned with the entrance pupil of the lens. I measured the Nikon 60mm entrance pupil to be around 34-42mm behind the front of the lens (it varies with focus distance, so I went with a central value of 38mm). As an aside, the photons to photos optical bench theoretically puts the entrance pupil a few millimeters farther back (I'm not sure which is more accurate). Anyway, Matt has said that this setup is exceptionally sharp edge to edge, so the design seems to have worked out correctly.

Hi Dave, I will check spherical diameter for my dome and report to you later this week

In the meantime we have a specific thread with some clever DIY ideas...

Oh, update to this. Sea&Sea are late. No new flat port sighted.

Hi! I'm here for my sort of bi-annual visit. Today about wide-angle shooting. Today I use a Sea&Sea housing with a Nikon Z7. For wide and not-so-wide angle I have three lenses, all with appropriate ports. The 8-15 fisheye on FTZ, with a small dome port. The 14-30/4 with Sea&Sea correction lens, with a large glass dome port. The 24-70/4, with the same glass dome port. This one is rarely used but could potentially be good for eg shy sharks. I have, once again, started considering switching to a Nauticam housing to go with my Nikon Z8. This would require new ports all around (also for macro which I don't even go into here). For WA I would then use the 24-50 lens, which I already own, together with a nauticam WWL-C wet lens. I'm hoping this would more or less (not quite) cover all my three lenses of today. It seems to have about the same angular coverage as the 14-30, though with a distortion profile somewhere bewtween rectilinear and fisheye - correct? If there's a shy shark, I should be able to flip the WWL-C away and shoot at 50 mm through just the flat port, right? (You might say, if it's that far away, don't bother to take the shot, but oh yes I would take the shot.) Fisheye - well it's obviously not as wide as the fisheye, I would have to dive with the WWL-C and see if I'm happy or if I want a fisheye port too. Expected pros with this switch: Would be able to use my Z8 underwater, with better AF than my Z7. Would get access to the front buttons on my camera (I think?), which my Sea&Sea housing does not allow. Significantly reduced weight and bulk when travelling, which is important. (Unless compared to only bringing the fisheye with today's equipment, that's probably similar) Expected cons with this switch: Hugely expensive, as these things are measured by my humble circumstances Have I missed or misunderstood anything important?

Aloha and welcome @gnarliest_gnome You're going to like the interchangeable lens OM cameras. Nice photos with the TG!

I have been working on designing a tripod for 3D printing that uses ball end arms for the legs. I have one done but have not gotten it in the water yet to test (although it works on land where the rig is even heavier than in the water, so I suspect that it will be strong enough). Since it hasn't been tested properly, I have not posted it to Thingiverse or MakerWorld yet, but I probably should.

What is the spherical diameter of your dome? You need that to figure out the optimal position of the dome. For my 100mm dome I calculated the base mount of the dome should be 59mm from the housing mount. So my dome port mount is actually a 19mm extension. This positions the inside surface of the dome at an optimal distance from the focal plane inside the 60mm lens. I'm not absolutely certain that is exactly correct, but it seems to be working out quite well. If I discover that it could be better positioned I can always adjust the base extension length. I can print a new extension ring overnight if needed, so it's not difficult to make adjustments.

Thank you everyone for your input on OM-1 setups. I do already have the 60mm macro and will definitely get a port for that. Currently trying to decide if I want to go straight for the 8mm FE or use the 12-42 and a wet wide lens. There is an Isotta for sale on scubaboard and although I hate how it looks it's an attractive option. @TimG I read your post about the liveaboard fire. I'm so sorry you experienced that but glad that everyone made it out safely. Thank you for sharing though, your words are an important warning to many of us.

Hi Dave, I have designed an adopter, like you did, to connect glass and N120 extension ring. I originally want to have a hard cap but now I have a soft cap made of synthetic rubber considering I dive with tec shorts as soft cap is easier to put into my pocket I am also interested in learning how to further improve the optical performance of the curved port, as I understand that the final image quality can vary depending on the combination of components used. In particular, I believe the length of the extension ring plays an important role in determining the port’s performance. I noticed that you are using a 20 mm and a 40 mm extension ring, giving you a total extension of 60 mm, whereas I am currently using two 20 mm extension rings, for a total of 40 mm. I have not yet done the optical calculations or conducted a systematic comparison to determine the optimal extension length. I would therefore be very interested to hear your thoughts on extension-ring length, port positioning, corner sharpness, field of view, or any other factors that may affect the overall performance of this setup. Any suggestions or practical experience would be greatly appreciated.

Super. My cap is also rubber for the same reasons. The open mesh design makes it a lot easier to remove and install underwater and makes rinsing simpler.

Finally waterpiexl is back! I lost my reply entirely Lol. However, my partner and I have designed an adaptor to connect N120 extension ring and components from INON Dome Unit IIIA. I originally wanted a hard cap too, but I eventually chose a soft cap made of synthetic rubber. Since I usually dive with my tech shorts, the soft cap is much easier to carry in my pocket.

Yes. I switched to Resolve a few years ago. The best money I ever spent. I paid 200 euros for the 15 Studio version and since then I have reached version 21.x without spending another euro. Lately there are rumors that there might be a new pricing policy, but for now I am happy. It is a steep learning curve but it is worth it. To exploit rhe latest AI features tou need a very powerful computer. Yes, you had a very original idea to combine completely different clips. Unfortunately, here we are a bit too much pixel peepers, while we should discuss creativity more 😄

Very nice. I looked up that Inon part. Interesting modular dome available in glass or acrylic. It seems designed to mount on to various Inon base ports. How did you get it on an n120 ring? Did you make that part, or find something comercialy available? That acrylic version that you have is quite inexpensive at $135 usd and the glass is not a whole lot more. This could be a pretty good and easily available source of part for anyone that want to try a similar curved macro port. I've been using my 3d printed port and extensions for a couple of weeks now and have about 4-5 dives with is completed. It's been really fantastic. Here is an updated photo to the final product, configured with a 40mm printed extension ring and port cap.

Bill, Did you try the "180" (actually more like 160 as it tilts slightly up)? I got one and used it some for macro in Monterey and it seemed like a big improvement. Wondering how it will be in Lembeh on muck macro and blackwater? Thanks, Evan

Hi Dave, It’s great to see someone else who is also interested in curved ports! I own a Nikon Z8 and use the Nauticam NA-Z8 housing, so we have a very similar setup. Before introducing my configuration, I’d like to share some details about the curved port I use. My curved port was modified from an INON Dome Unit IIIA. Here is the final setup with AFS 60mm(20mm N120 extension rings x2) The curved port is made of aluminum and is compatible with Nauticam’s N120 port system. This allows me to use it with different extension-ring configurations, such as a 50 mm extension ring or two 20 mm extension rings. Here are my test shots: This is the very first image I took with the curved port. I chose this subject to test how wide a field of view this setup could achieve. When shooting at a sufficiently close distance with curved port, the background can be rendered with a pleasing blur. Furthermore, I also test it during blackwater dives, I am pretty satisfied the results, too. I was lucky enough to photograph a blanket octopus with this setup. I was surprised that I could fit the entire subject in the frame even from such a close distance. You can see more images taken with this curved port(recent images with AFS 60mm) in my online portfolio. The images have been converted to AVIF format and use the Display P3 color profile, as I primarily work with Apple devices. AVIF images are displayed particularly well in Google Chrome on PC and Mac. looking forward to having more discussion about curved port.

Attaching a photo shot with the Kraken at F11 at near zero range from the subject. This was taken in pretty chunky water, but if you look at the lower left you can get an idea of corner sharpness. The upper right is much further away and not in the plane of focus, plus chunks...

It took me a while to get over the lack of a 45 finder but I find (except for Blackwater) the AOI 90 degree finder is fine for macro. Bill

A friend is shooting Subal and has the FP-75/3 port for her 60 mm lens. She wants to add a diopter, but the port has no threads. Is there a push-on/3d printed holder to make that happen? Thanks Bill

Mark, Thanks. I sent you an IM. Let me know if you’re interested in selling your OM-1 and housing after you get your Sony up and running. Evan

Thanks Sokrates for posting. I just came here to do it. I also wanted to share this long video covering how I set up the camera: Which covers a few things on basic camera setup and then goes into detail on Customisation of My Meni, Function Menu and buttons for underwater shooting, before going through setting up the programable Shooting Modes for different types of UW shooting. This video goes with this webpage: https://www.amustard.com/underwater-settings-for-sony-a7r-vi/ Alex