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Hello, as a user of a Canon R5 and a newcomer here in the forum (though I've been with wetpixel for many years), I'm currently switching from Seacam to Nauticam and my main question is about wide-angle - what else 😁. For many years I photographed with the Canon EF 8-15/4 (often in combination with a Kenko 1.4x TC) behind a superdome or the small fisheye macro port (CFWA). Now I would like to photograph with even better corner performance and more compact dimensions in the future, and therefore I was considering the Nauticam WACP-C. Unfortunately, I can't find any informative reviews and/or images online about the best(!) camera/lens combination for Canon FF mirrorless cameras. The RF 24-50 is recommended, but I'd like to know if, for example, the Canon RF 15-30 STM might offer better image quality (it only has 85° at the long end), or if an older adapted EF lens (e.g., the 28-80) would be advisable (it has 54° at the long end compared to the RF 24-50's 81°, so it would be much more versatile). Or would I ultimately achieve comparable image quality with my old 8-15/4 lens in combination with the Kenko 1.4x TC? I'd probably have to stop down significantly more to avoid corner softness, even behind a super dome. I also read here in the forum about the combination of the EF 8-15/4 with a 2x TC on a Sony, but I don't know if that works with Canon. I know that the WACP-1 has up to 1 stop better image quality than the WACP-C (probably only visible in the corners), but the WACP-1 is simply too heavy - and a little bit too expensive for me as well. Currently, I only own a Nauticam 8.5" Acrylic Dome Port (SKU # 18802) that came with the 2nd hand housing, which I could use with my Canon 8-15/4. However, I don't know if the image quality would be acceptable. And btw: is there a WA lens recommended to the 8.5" Acrylic Dome? Or does anyone have completely different considerations regarding excellent WA IQ? Btw: I own a RF 14-35/4 and still have the EF 8-15/4, of course. I'll definitely buy a Super Dome later at least for split or wreck shots... well, and I read here in the forum that a 140mm Nauticam dome is hardly recommended for the 8-15/4. I would be grateful for any helpful answers! Best regards, Wahrmut

Hey Wahrmut! Great to have you with his and welcome to your new home. Yep, lots of recovering former Wetpixelers here - as I'm sure you will see. Enjoy the forum! Best wishes

Thank you I didn't know this site...

French based UW online store , that would be difficult for you to order from Oz. (Wondering whether the owner is not part of this board btw) I guess you can find the same model from Asian located online stores. https://eocean.eu/en/accueil/116-686-focus-ring-for-12-50-olympus-and-nauticam-housing.html#/51-housing-nauticam_m14

We are currently using the Sony A6700 with Nauticam housing/wide angle lens. A couple Sola video lights gives us good quality for court purposes.

Hello, based in Germany, I'm a newcomer here - having previously been a member of wetpixel for many, many years (and uwpix - some of the German-speaking photographers might remember). I've been diving for over 30 years and doing underwater photography for more than 20 years. Currently I'm using Canon mirrorless cameras and dive in cooler water (German lakes, North Sea) and in the tropics as well. I've already read quite a bit in this forum, and if I'm authorized to do so, I'll soon post an urgent question about WA gear. Actually, I don't know how many posts I need to make before I can create my own and let myself be surprised. Best regards, Wahrmut

I’m a D500 user with the same lenses that Scubajess is selling. It’s a brilliant setup!

I have decided to sell my underwater camera set up. It has been a fabulous camera. It excels in macro photography and takes great wide angle photos. Nikon D500 in Sea & Sea Housing Kit. Asking 3,500. Kit includes: Nikon D500 Camera (with two chargers and 4 batteries) Sea and Sea Housing Tokina 10 - 17 lens Sea and Sea Zoom ring for Tokina lens Zen glass mini dome for Tokina lens Sea & Sea Acrylic 240 dome port (great for splits!) Nikon 60mm AF-S lens Port for 60mm lens Nikon 105mm AF-S lens Port for 105mm lens Sea & Sea Electronic sync cables Sea & Sea 180 degree viewfinder Sea and Sea 45 degree viewfind

Did you try to clean it? Inside there'a a mushroom valve and a spring. Maybe you have some debris or salt deposit on the membrane.

Agree with Davide: the CMC-2 is much easier to use. I tend to dive with that versus the CMC-1, which is taking up space in a drawer gathering dust. I also liked using the Inon 165, which are easily stacked if you want more magnification.

@Underwater with Art Aloha and welcome. Very cool background. Curious, what are you using for video at work?

Aloha and welcome @Davichin !

Hey all I saw that Sony released a firmware update not long ago. Has anyone tried it yet? Does it work ok after the update? Sagi

I recall you said that you had a steady red light which is the battery. If you lose the vacuum it's a blinking red light and it should go through yellow first . You can test this by pulling a vacuum and then immediately releasing it and observing what the lights do. It's always possible the valve has had it, if it uses a soft seat for example, that will eventually wear out. But to be sure about this see if the circuit does as described when releasing the vacuum as you would do if you wanted to open the housing. Another way to test if to see if you can fit your friends valve to see if it comes good with that. BTW the tool you showed is for the new model vacuum valve, you model without the press button uses a wrench with a little pin that fits in one of the holes on the valve. scroll down to the bottom of this link, above the pic of the pump: NauticamNauticam Vacuum Check and Leak Detection SystemNauticam is pleased to announce an exceptionally comprehensive vacuum system that allows the underwater photographer to confirm watertight integrity before entering the water. This system provides add If it doesn't do this as described, you have a different problem. A fresh battery not fixing it does not necessarily it's not a battery issue either, You might have bad battery contacts or the wire or switch has some issues with extra resistance or it could be a problem with the pressure sensor. A new valve/alarm system should certainly get you back in working order if that's the case.

thank you so much!! i will definitely use this info. photos would be great - thank you!

Hi @Kristin You can try to write at [email protected] I like this product. Miso changed the model made improvement over the years. You can buy in on-line shops like VIVID LEAK SENTINEL V6 XD - Plongimage.com or order directly over mail and pay with Wise . I ordered a new one to have a backup.... just in case then I breaked a cable (old model) I fixed the problem but I prefer to have a backup Normally I 'll receive it in the next days. I can publish some pictures when I got it, if you want

@Luko - that sounds like the one I have! I'll try to find a no name one. Do you remember where you got yours? I can't get any light change now after doing what I could to it and reinstalling. @Davide DB sorry, I thought I had answered that! Yes, there was never a problem removing the back. The problem is getting a vacuum seal. I can hear air escaping the valve sometimes even after taking it out and reinstalling. I'm wondering if somehow I am not putting it back together again properly...

Been there, done that (except the reason was that I LOST the cap and figured it out a night before my first dive in a trip to Dauin). That was the older NA M14 vacuum model without the red push button : you had to screw/unscrew a ring around the vacuum. I removed the vacuum with a wrench, cleaned the O-ring as much as I could and went diving. After a gentle cleaning, I noticed it took a longer time for the greenlight to switch to yellow-red (about 2 hours or so) . That was enough for me to go diving : after all, how did we survive before the vacuum times? Back home I purchased a noname M14 vacuum, almost half price of the Nauticam model, coming with a smaller vacuum pump .

You can also change the valve for a new one... I've good experience with the sentinel from Vivid. Small and not to expensive

So, There are two possibilities: the electronic circuit or the valve itself. I didn't understand if you had tested whether, regardless of the light, opening the latches made the back come off, or if you felt air escaping when pressing the valve. Anyway, now that you've removed the valve from the housing, try washing it. If you have access to someone who services regulators or a jeweler, try cleaning it in an ultrasonic bath. Otherwise, soak it in vinegar for a while and actuate the valve by hand several times. Then rinse it and run clean hot water through it first, followed by air. It might just be that the internal mushroom membrane is dirty. I wouldn't dare take it apart. To avoid to ruin the valve, you need that tool or something like that.

Hi David! I remember you from Wetpixels. A warm welcome to your new home. Great to have you with us - finally! I'm sure you'll see lots of familiar names on the forum. We hope you enjoy it. Best wishes

LOL, welcome to Waterpixels, Underwater with Art - love then name. Great to have you with us and I'm delighted to read that you've managed to find a peaceful outlet away from what, I'm sure, can be pretty difficult at times. We hope you enjoy the forum. Best wishes

Well they say I need to post an intro, so here it is. I’ve been a working diver for almost 20 Years with the RCMP in Canada. Underwater video has been our main method of documenting crime scenes with the occasional bit of photography. Although I have been a diver for 30 years it is only in the past few years have started enjoying underwater photography as a peaceful activity to take me away from the usual trauma associated with my underwater work. I am to the point of upgrading to my first mirrorless camera and want to take my photography to the next level, which for me is putting it into print. I have a small Portfolio of pictures from various vacations and in small format they look great, but I’d like to get to the point of having a size that would look good in the walls of my house. Well that’s more than enough about me. If you’ve read this far I gotta say I’m impressed. Cheers and safe diving everyone.

Just a couple of months ago I forgot to put the cap on and went in the water. Got to about 30 feet and realized my error, NA-R50 housing. Fortunately I did not flood. However, salt crystals formed despite my effort to wash it out. Two days later I had a problem pulling vacuum. The green light would come on but I would quickly get the flashing red light while I was at breakfast. I thought perhaps some salt crystals or debris had formed on the internal seal surface. I pulled a vacuum as best I could and quickly put distilled water in the cavity and pressed the release button several times. I repeated several times. I had placed a microfiber cloth inside to ensure no water got anywhere inside the housing. I completed the trip and have had no further issues and just recently did a pool dive, all functioned normally. If I could stay home long enough I would like to take it apart. Too expensive to replace but if I cannot then I guess off to Reef Photo it goes. YRMV. Edit to add, I forgot, after forcing the distilled water flush through the valve I used an air gun to gently dry it including pressing the release while allowing air to flow through it. It functioned the remainder of dives and is still seemingly fine. I too would like to know how to disassemble the valve.

No, it isn't the battery, which I have changed already. The vacuum seal is not working. Have just pulled it out and tried to see if anything is obvious. If anyone has pulled theirs apart to see the spring and little foot, it would be great to hear from you as it seems that this has to be the issue somehow - there's really nothing else that can go wrong. I can't find a detailed parts diagram or instructions on how to fix this online at all.