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I came across this video (a bit long for my taste) that revisits the eternal debate between Full Frame and cropped formats, and the alleged loss of quality for us "normal" enthusiasts. Here, the comparison is even more extreme because we are talking about an excellent but older M43 camera as the Panasonic G9, medium format digital cameras like the Fujifilm GFX 50S, and medium format film cameras. The guy evaluates the image quality by looking at digital files and physical prints measuring 16x20 inches. Because the digital files were cropped to a square ratio to match the film camera, the magnification level of the prints equals a larger 26x20 inch format. During the evaluation, the MF digital camera displays finer details and smoother rendering. On close inspection of the physical prints, the medium format images show more distinct lettering and sharper elements. When observing the prints from a normal viewing distance, the results from the M43 and the MF cameras appear identical. It is necessary to stand very close and examine the prints side by side to notice the variations. Without having two prints next to each other, it is difficult to identify which camera system captured the image. The video also notes that using AI upscaling software on M43 images produces results that approach native medium format resolution. The software can sometimes introduce minor visual artifacts. The M43 system maintains an advantage in portability, as a full medium format kit would be larger and heavier. He observes that elements such as composition, focus placement, and aperture selection have a larger impact on the final image than the camera format.

does anyone else take the handles of there nauticam hosing or any housing to fit into their carry on backpack

I can't agree with that. I work in CH, and like you don't need more than 20 minute to be in CH. ( No it's depending of the moment of the day... some times when the worker are going to Basel... it can be more than one hour ;) ) My working kolleg from CH are not really happy... appartment insurance etc etc all is very expensive... and in comparaison with France they didn't have a lot of money. BUT strike is not an option It is not in the culture of Swiss-German

Wreck diving might become good in the Straits…..

S-TURTLE MOBIE SMART TTL Trigger for Sony Systems - €200. Used but working perfectly (TTL-tested).

Is it just me - or is all the media attention on the straits of Hormuz making anyone else wonder about what the diving might be like there? I can see that the is a diving outfit in the tip of Oman - probably accessible from Dubai airport (obv. not quite at the the moment.....) Diving – Musandam Has anyone tried diving on that side of the Arabian peninsula? I suppose that there is so much goodness in the red sea it would have to be pretty good to justify the increased risk of diving in such a volatile part of the world.

This wasn’t about the general cost of living. The point was that strikes are rare to almost nonexistent in Zurich. And that is definitely due to the higher salaries compared to other countries. And yes, of course I don’t know Switzerland — I only live about 20 minutes away. If I really wanted to, I could just swim across the lake and I’d be there. 🙂

Price drop, $2600 OBO

Here is the answer I got recently from Backscatter on this question: "As new batteries have come out and the old Nitecore batteries have been discontinued, we have updated the compatible battery list for the Hybrid Flashes. The Nitecore NL2155HP batteries are compatible with the Hybrid Flahes. The XTAR 21700HP 5000mAh 25A and Nitecore NL2160HP are also 100% compatible with the Hybrid Flashes and Mini Flashes. The only issue with the Nitecore NL2160HP batteries is that they do not fit in the Macro Wide 4300 video lights. They are slightly larger in diameter and do not fit in." The Nitecore NL2155HP is IPX6 rated. You still don't want these batteries to get wet, but it might help.

Well, that design was a failure. Once the arms were attached, the torque was too much and two of the balls snapped off. Once I get home, I will need to re-design that area of the tripod and get some additional strength there.

I suggest wide angle on most dives, perhaps shoot macro on the third dive of the day when the sun is low. The MFO-1 is great for most macro subjects, and the SMC-3 will depend on your preferences. There is always something cool and tiny if you look hard enough. There are no dive guides at God's Pocket, so critter spotting is your job.

I just comfirm that non non HP model (10A or 8A) are NOT compatible with AOI UIS-P1 (and for sure idem with Backscatter HF-1). Only the HP (25A) are

My collection of 21700 Li-Ion rechargeable batteries I am using for my two new Retra Maxi Strobes is comprised of six 3.6V model Nitecores. Four consist of the NL2160HP models which boasts a capacity of 6000mAh at 21.6Wh, whereas the 2 Nitecore NL2153 models feature 5300mAh with a 19.08 Wh rating. All feature a continuous 20A discharge current specifically designed for high-drain devices like powerful flashlights and flash systems.

Last time I was there, I didn't see much that warranted the additional magnification, I would think a good macro and MFO-1/MFO-3 would work just fine. On the other side, the 8-15mm and small dome came in handy at various times. From my last trip to God's Pocket and Browning Pass in OCT '24 and at the time, I didn't yet have the MFO-3: Jim Piavis - Browning Pass (God's Pocket).

I think the Backscatter guy was confusing total capacity (mAh) with max discharge current. Max discharge current is necessarily high for fast recycle time. Bill

Last time at God's pocket there were lots of nudibranchs but they in general were much bigger than the ones here in SoCal. There are a bunch of little ladybug type things that would be ideal for the SMC 3. Take a look at the God's Pocket video on www.blueviews.net under the trip reports videos. Bill

on the plus side I have been using the ring light at work to take photos during syrgical procedures (ENT surgeon) and it is fantastic with my new 11-20 2.8 tamron for wide angle macro images

I also find this statement somewhat strange and will decide either for the (very expensive) Nitecore or the (significantly cheaper) XTAR anyway.

I posted 2 links -the first led to the Backscatter page and the second showed the other battery model with only 10A. But: Backscatter claims that the amperage doesn't matter (see my quote in my last post): 'The batteries we sell have been tested and work properly with our lights. The NiteCore and the Xtar work fine the different amps have no real issue with the lights.' However, I also find the word 'lights' somewhat strangely chosen in this context.

This seems a little ambiguous, the recommended batteries are 5000, 5300 and 6000 mAhr rating and either 20A or 25 A rated and they state to only use the models they list (which can be purchased from many outlets). It seems what they are saying is the mAhr rating doesn't matter much and should be rated for at least 20A. Of course the problem is that other brands may claim they are 20A capable but they may have just bought a label to stick on their cheap cells. It might seem like a lower amp rated battery might be OK, but electrically the circuit will try to draw what it needs and overload a lesser battery that is not rated to supply the needed amps.

I am using them on the AOI UIS-P1, those batteries with 25A discharge help the strobe recharge quickly. Be careful, the link you provided is for a different Xtar model. The ones I sent you are 25A, which are the recommended ones. The other model does not specify the A rating, but it is usually lower, 8 or 10A, so you need to check carefully.

This converter from Retra might work, particularly if you are using a Retra strobe: Retra UWTE-Opto converterThe E-Opto converter is a simple and reliable optical trigger that generates optical signals from electric input. The E-Opto converter comes with pre-installed batteries that will last for more than 1You would need to confirm your Nikonos is wired the same way , it should work with other strobes on manual, but as you will note it is not guaranteed to work with strobes other than Retra.

Yes with the Retras, they have very good light quality and an even beam without diffusers. For something like the YS-D3 I think I would want the diffusers on as they seem to rely on them for a good beam. For a DIY reduction ring you could probably 3D print a press fit ring, I expect a ring of wetsuit material which was a tight fit over the strobe would also work.

I made a lot of housing in the past using compass domes. Look for a company who fixes them .

Ikelite 200 Dl Housing for the Nikon Z50 II camera. Bought new in December of 2025 less than 3 months old. used one time in shallow water dive. Have to sell because of health issue. I paid $1,895.00 plus shipping and taxes. will sell for $1,500.00. The pictures here are from Ike's website but look the same as my housing. not a scratch on the housing in perfect condition. I live in South Florida and own a Hotel called the Blue Seas Courtyard. com