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Very odd. This morning I'm not able to access the link to my account. Can't logout either. I tried closing my browser, deleting cache and that didn't help at all. Only thing working for me is I can access the forums. Hovering over the links shows that it is being recognized as a link, but the menu doesn't drop. Thanks for looking into it.

Camera Body, 10-18mm lens (+gear) and 30mm macro lens and port SOLD. ZEN dome port SOLD. Strobes, 16-70 lens + gear, arms, clamps still available.

https://www.edmundoptics.eu/p/fiber-optic-cutting-block-54013/10932?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20928138917&gbraid=0AAAAACOW0GNd2Eqw1pCtTs9ihUqLOfZvu&gclid=CjwKCAjw1tLOBhAMEiwAiPkRHtmitgyaIBazMhSyQuI4n8h1yhjxsU57-DEaCTDvsa8_fl3CWaddphoCgXwQAvD_BwE for cutting.

Thank you! Would you be able to find similar pictures 7-14 and 8-15 demonstrating the difference in projection? 7-14 images in that thread look supernice and uniform across the frame and the direct comparison with 8-15 would help even better. Nothing artistic, just pictures like the one with sand in 7-14 thread. Thanks!

With the right tool of course - no scissors!

Brilliant offer from Dave! I’d suggest not asking him to cut the cables for you. Play around with the setup first and get a feel for how long the cables need to be in use. It’s very easy to cut them at a later date.

Have you tried dropping Subal an email and getting advice from them? Harald, the owner, is pretty helpful.

strange.. ok I'll take a look in the morning and see what I can see.

Hi Chris, Thanks for getting back to me on this. I'm currently in the process of printing some gears. As for your questions regarding the aperture adjustment - it seems I will simply need a gear specific to the aperture ring, as the housing already has the necessary controls - it just needs to gear to fill the space. The viewfinder is perfectly sharp outside of the housing, but it does not have the external eyepiece that appears to be installed in the image from the original post. I think you might be onto something with the linked eyepiece you've suggested - as I've just seen the following in documentation of another subal housing (https://www.marinfoto.no/subal/pdf/en8.pdf): The 3rd image is very grainy but reads: 'adjustable viewfinder optic -3/+3 diopter'. So I'll do some measuring and see what I can find that fits. An additional concern is that the housing viewfinder may only focus on a point corresponding to the exact length of the adjustable optic above - which would likely mean I'm in for an expensive pursuit. If you (or anyone) happen to recognise the model of this particular diopter adjustment attachment, please let me know which it is. Thanks again!

Hi Tim, Thanks for getting back to me on this. I've tried the setup with and without the rubber eyepiece with no success. The slight misalignment with a couple of controls has me thinking that perhaps the positioning of the camera may also be locating the camera viewfinder slightly outside of the focal point of the housing eyepiece (the alignment of controls and checking the numbering on the inside of the housing has me confident that I do in fact have the right camera for the housing). I'm going to see what variation I can achieve with the alignment and am currently printing some rings for zoom and aperture. Purchasing a diopter adjustment eyepiece for the camera itself is a likely next step should I not be able to achieve alignment. Cheers!

Used but still works great! Pump and gauge included. Body cap included. $350 shipped to CONUS. Buyer covers PayPal fees or Zelle with no fees. Local Chicagoland pick up also available.

Sony 16-70mm Zeiss f4 lens with Nauticam gear. Selling it with caps, hood, box and pouch. Front barrel has couple tiny scratches as seen in pictures. Optics are flawless. $350 shipped to CONUS. Buyer covers PayPal fees or Zelle with no fees. Local Chicagoland pick up also available.

In the meantime you could try logging out, closing your browser then reopen and log back in. Could get you going again, if not have to wait for Rich to look into it.

Great. Message me with how much you want, and what combination of connectors. Do you want me to cut the cable, how long, etc.

There are also the 3d printed fixed focus/aperture lenses using the optical components from disposable cameras.

I have a 3D printable mount that has been tested up to ASPC sized cameras, I'd be willing to share the CAD file so long as you don't commercialize it.

Happy with that.

An update to this old topic A trend that has been spreading in recent years among teenagers and twenty-somethings is taking photographs that look like they were shot with disposable cameras or digital cameras from the early 2000s, slightly blurry and overexposed. To achieve that effect, many use actual compact digital cameras from those years, bought second-hand or pulled out of their parents' drawers. The point is not to take beautiful photos, since smartphones do it much better, but to give a different and stronger meaning to individual shots, in times when it is normal to take dozens of them for a single moment and then forget them in the phone memory. Companies are also adapting to this demand by re-releasing old models or creating new ones that meet these characteristics. Among these, a digital camera that is having particular success – precisely because it takes grainy photos with a retro effect – is the Kodak Charmera. The Charmera is inspired by a historic Kodak camera: the Fling, the company's first disposable produced in 1987. Unlike the Fling, however, the Charmera is digital. It is a tiny camera: just under six centimeters long and about two and a half high, it fits in the palm of a hand and weighs only 30 grams. It is sold with a keychain hook because, due to its extremely small size, it can be easily hung on a set of keys or clipped to a bag or belt loop. The name Charmera is in fact the result of combining the words charm, meaning those little objects hung on accessories and devices to decorate them, and camera. Compact ShooterKodak Charmera Toy Camera Review - Retro charm but not fo...It’s tiny, it’s cute, it’s got a cool retro design, it looks like a 110 film pocket camera from the […]

Fiji cruise ship runs aground after hitting reef near 'Ca...Thirty passengers have reportedly been rescued after a cruise ship ran aground on a reef near the island where the film Cast Away was shot.

Hi brightnight, we have this old thread. You can do both. It depends on your subjects and dive scenarios. Explain to me better what you had in mind. Video or photos? What use do you want to make of them?

Hi Toque Sorry about that! I can’t see any obvious reason and will ask Rich to take a look.

I put some examples on page 2 of this thread: (not sure why the hyperlink box is so wonky.) 7-14 - Nice and sharp, easy to use. Great lens. I can pull some 8-15mm photos for ya if you want. Slightly less sharp (my copy) but not really notable unless corner peaking.

That's exactly what my connectors are designed for. The connection parts are all soft TPU rubber and the 180deg straight parts is designed to bend and flex. The tall vertical is the 180deg connector. Bendy and grippy. Send me a private message with the connector layouts you want. In general: Strobes with the connection on the back (Retra) work best with a 90deg elbow connector Strobes with the connection on the side (Backscatter, Inon) work best with a 180deg connector Housings can go either way. I use 90deg for the Nauticam ports on the top of the housing (Image below with both Backscatter and Retra strobes on Nauticam housing)

The ones I posted take a Sea&Sea connector, which would make screwing them in a bit easier unless some sort of rotating component was built in. In my case I'd like straight connectors with some flex if that makes sense?

SOLD to Grant!