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100% agree with Dave and John here. Your housing will not break down because you don't soak it overnight for a 6 days diving trip (let alone a 14 days diving one if you're doing it). Just rinse it, take a shower with it if you want to make sure, and then dry it properly by bringing it in your cabin. I've seen more floods of cameras/gopros that were left in rinse tanks than from being underwater! :)

I just shared a couple of new Nauticam / Nikon Zoom Gears on Makerworld. Nikon 8-15mm with 1.4 TeleconverterThis is a great lens combination that will give you a little more reach with the excellent 8-15mm fisheye lens and Kenko 1.4TC. (other TC's may work, assumes a 20mm length) While the 8-15 is a zoom lens, it's really just 8mm circular or 15mm wide angle. Many people dislike the circular effect, but it can be a fun party trick. However, adding a 1.4 TC gives you some more reach in the wide angle mode making the zoom function much more interesting for this lens. Be careful not to zoom in too much and vignette the edges. https://makerworld.com/en/models/2594402-nauticam-zoom-gear-for-nikon-8-15mm-with-1-4-tc#profileId-2862921 Nikon 14-24mm Z-mountZoom gear for the Nikon 14-24mm Z-mount lens. Note there is also a 14-24 v2 lens which would not work with this gear. https://makerworld.com/en/models/2584588-nauticam-zoom-gear-for-nikon-14-24-z-mount-lens#profileId-2851033 More Scuba and UW Photo designs:Scuba: https://makerworld.com/collections/16165676 UW Photo: https://makerworld.com/collections/16165730

One of my dive buddies (another PNW diver DerekS) made some custom BS snoot masks as well. The most interesting was a pattern with multiple slits and then vertical and horizontal options.

LOL. That's my model upload. Yes, you'll need the locking mechanism or download one for use. I used the one from the OEM gear and it works well. I found the OEM gear that used the zoom knob on the 100-120 adapter was a bit clunky and not very smooth as the gears are aligned at 90-degrees, I extended the gear to use the zoom gear in the housing which is linearly aligned and much smoother in operation. Additionally, you can install the entire camera/lens assembly without assembling from both the front and rear.

Here is an example of what a bad color profile does to water color. I posted this asking "What is happening to my color? Why is it auto-converting to ugly green?" It was the Lightroom color profile updating to Adobe Color. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/g96hoada5z7mgcl46uwak/IMG_1527.MOV?rlkey=375fktrxcr5o3rfzfqf1rq8rp&st=msefl7f1&dl=0

Has anyone done any experiments with the Backscatter Snoot light shaping slider? I started playing around a bit after my original OEM slider got broken and subsequently lost to the depths, but are there any interesting patterns out there? This was done quickly just to see how it worked, and using the 2nd from the top, produced the image of this Shag Rug nudibranch with the mottled light texturing. It took a couple prints to get the thickness right but 2.6mm seems to be optimal. Image taken in Puget Sound Seattle in pretty lousy conditions due to heavy snow and rain runoff.

I'm convinced that Nauticam is priced by the pound (or kg).

Thanks @pdxDiver - the only reason that I thought it might be the Goldspot Goby was the vertical bar through the eye which the Goldspot has and the Patch-reef doesn't seem to have. Any thoughts on that? Thanks for your help.

I have Weefine 2300 (branded as Kraken in US). It comes with "Auto shut Off" function that shuts the light off during flash.. I put it to the housing (Nauticam Sony A7R5) via separate ball with long clamp. For coarse orientation, I use the white light occasionally. Most of the time, for searching as well as for focusing, I have just the red light on (this proofed to be very useful, many critters, e.g. shrimps anf basketstars, are not able to perceive the red light)... Wolfgang

Quick heads-up for Sony + Metabones + Canon 8-15mm users: I found this very interesting model. Please note: the locking mechanism is missing https://makerworld.com/it/models/778776-canon-8-15-zoom-gear

I am using a Kraken 1500 focus light that is cold shoe mounted atop my Nauticam housings. The light has a mode that it shuts off during the photo flash thus reducing backscatter from the focus light. Sometimes it can just attract too many critters, those blood worms in particular.

Thanks so much for the responses. I'll have to look into the places in Indonesia. thats our favorite diving spot at the moment. Lasongo, what got my wife started on this topic was our local dive shop has a few openings for a trip to Isla Mujeres in July and August. We used to dive Cozumel quite often until United bought out Continental. Then the pricing got crazy. I looked at the diving in Isla Mujeres because the trips are 5 days(looking for other things to do) and didn't see much great diving there. Maybe you can shed some light on what the diving other than whale sharks is like. Thanks again to all

Hi Rich, As far as I know, "Hue" and "Saturation" of the water is nothing one can adjust at the camera (regarding the RAW file). The actual color of the water is adjusted in post, e.g. in LRc, via the "Temp" and "Tint" sliders and (within the range of your RGB signals) you can produce virtually any color you like... Similar with darker/lighter of water, what can be adjusted as you like in post (but exposure to the right by ISO, shutter and aperture is, of course prefereable as the starting point)... It is just the balance of #1.: "Temp"&"Tint" between foreground subject and water that you can adjust by choosing the strobe temperature (or, alternatively, making a mask of the foreground and of the water and adjust this separtely) and of #2. darker/lighter ("Exposure") between foreground subject and water that you sleect by strobe power (or, alternatively, making a mask of the foreground and of the water and adjust "Exposure" separately I am not quite sure what you mean with "nice blue water column". For me the blue of the water in your second example photo looks good, but this is certainly a matter of personal taste. Maybe you could post an example where you like the blue of the water, so that one can understand what your goal is? Here is an example of mine, from my last trip to the Maledives (I just returned yesterday). Conditions for water were difficult as there was only little light in approx. 30m at approx. 08:00 AM, mediocre visibility (approx. 15m) and cloudy sky. Sony A7R5, Canon 8-15mm f/4 fisheye with 2x Sony TC at 30mm; 1/160s; f/9; ISO 400, 2*HF-1 with 4500K diffusers. Probably you do not like these colors, but when you tell me what you like, I think I can adjust the water to any color you would like to see: Wolfgang

separating the package now, let me know what you're interested in

It’s on the way :-) Now I will get lesson on how my theory meets reality 🤣. The theory - ‘active’ glass with 190deg ‘must’ be sharp and ‘must’ provide Stitch free image. The reality - we shall see… 🤣 My theory behind this housing is that someone important made them do it as one off and so they decided to make a product out of it 🤣 Or they made deal with 360 that X6 with 10bit gonna be the same form factor. Otherwise I am screwed 🤣

Goodman handle: Orcatorch ZD710MK2 or D710 Mounted on housing: 2 x Wurkkos DL08

For sale Nauticam N120 Macro Port 94 #18703 Price = $ 300 with free international shipping | retail $ 660 All my stuff for sale >> https://bit.ly/42RbCdm Location - Dauin, Negros Oriental, Philippines Worldwide shipping by PhilPost 15-30 days (with track number) Payment PayPal / Bank transfer W/o original box, with original o-ring, pouch, silicone Official page https://www.nauticam.com/products/macro-port-94 Nauticam macro Port 94 #18703 officially recommended for lenses Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM Canon EF 180mm f/3.5L Macro USM (with 60mm etension) Canon RF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM ... and also suitable for many others

Hey Duncan! A warm welcome to Waterpixels! You've come to the right place for advice on housings, macro etc ... also on how to empty your bank account. We hope you really enjoy the forum. Best wishes from the team

Good point about warranty, specially with Sea&Sea as their quality has been something to hope for in the past. Havent heard anything about the YS-D130R quality, maybe its better? These are fairly cheap specially after the tax, clocking in at €490 for one or €600 for the pro package.

Resurrecting this little bit as these are cheap in Japan and im going there (other topic in general). How is the battery, havent really seen anything but can use proprietary li-ion or AA as far i as i understood. Is the li-ion only half the side of the normal AA set as pictured? Or can you use rechargeable li-ion AA size in the AA tray?

I am curious as to what focus light do you use, that they have so many different modes? Mine are usually just Flood and Red Light.

Looks like Patch-reef Goby Coryphopterus tortugae https://www.inaturalist.org/taxa/217635-Coryphopterus-tortugae

Hey everyone, I've been diving for almost 10 years, and shooting for a similar amount of time, but not underwater... I'm keen on land macro and will purchase a housing soon to get more out of my dives. Looking forward to no longer trying to memorise nudibranch features during dives and inevitably forgetting half of them!

Will do, Bill!

Is this a Goldspot Goby? Photographed in about three meters of water off Coco View Resort in Roatan, Honduras. Thanks!