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Aloha and welcome @HugzzPictures !

Assemble and seal housing in an air conditioned room. This reduces humidity in the housing. You can use a scuba tank & drying nozzle to spray extra dry air in the housing as you seal it. Microwave your silica packets as they are probably saturated. A few rounds of 5 minutes at 50% power. Store in a Ziploc bag to keep the extras dry.

See if you can purge the housing before closing with dry compressed air from a tank (gently). Or one of those cans of nitrogen for blowing dust from equipment and electronics. And then close up and pull the vacuum.

I’m currently in a shoot in South Africa and for the first three weeks, no issues. Recently though, I have been getting condensation in the inside of my glass dome port and it’s rendering footage unusable. Any tips to avoid this? Nothing has changed, the camera and housing are assembled in the same room and sand conditions. The only slight change is a -1 degree temp change in the water. I have a small silica gel sachet at the back of the housing. Set up is: Red Komodo X for n a nauticam housing Zen 230mm glass dome Canon 24-105 Ext 60 and 30 attached together. Anything I can do to stop this as it’s never happened before. Air temp is 20-25 degrees, water temp 22-23.5 degrees

Bienvenue à bord Hugo ! Si ton application fonctionne un peu mieux que google images, que j'essaye d'utiliser régulièrement pour des espèce au stade larvaire ou juvénile, ça sera très utile 😁

Salut Hugo! Et bien venue à Waterpixels. Nous sommes ravis de t'accueillir à notre forum. Avec mes meilleurs vœux Tim

Bonjour à tous, Je m’appelle Hugo et je travaille chez CYME, une entreprise française spécialisée dans les logiciels pour photographes. Je m’intéresse particulièrement à la manière dont les photographes sous-marins organisent, identifient et retrouvent leurs images. Nous travaillons actuellement sur Specio, une application capable d’identifier automatiquement les espèces présentes dans les photos, directement sur l’ordinateur et sans envoyer les images dans le cloud. Je rejoins Waterpixel avant tout pour découvrir vos pratiques, échanger avec des photographes passionnés et mieux comprendre les besoins spécifiques liés à la photographie sous-marine. Au plaisir d’échanger avec vous !

Do you have some clips showing the focus problem?

Thx not heard of that. Will look it up

It is not a full hemisphere. The optical centre for the 140 is approx 7mm behind the mounting flange. I understand the only full hemisphere ports you can buy are custom jobs.

Thanks - an external battery is not an option unfortunately. On a positive note, I think the problem is partially solved. Looking into my camera settings, I had Auto Power Off set to 5 minutes (which could explain the Anker power bank's 5-minute cut-off time). I set it to 30 minutes and tested it. The camera battery was at 75%, but the power bank has now been active for over 90 minutes and shows no sign of turning off. The screen is off, so I don't know if the battery has charged to 100%, but I see the power bank's LED indicators draining, so I imagine the camera is being powered by the power bank. Exciting, as 1.5 hours is perfectly fine, even though it does mean leaving the camera on in the housing. The ideal situation would be for the power bank to turn on when the camera is turned on, but I don't think that's possible.

Hi Your monitor has twin mounting options on both the top and bottom of the monitor, meaning you can just mount a standard ball mount (with dual screws) top or bottom, and then just use a long clamp or a small arm (5") to position it wherever you want. I have a Weefine 5-HD pro with a dual mount point that I use with an NA-A1 housing (standard camera shape). I mounted the ball mount on top, and use a 5" arm, it's very flexible.

Hi All -- I am in the process of putting together a new system for my Sony a7RV Nauticam housing. I found a smoking deal on a T7HD UltraBright Monitor, and when I received it, I figured out that the mounting system is designed for a Nauticam video housing with 1/4" threaded receivers builtin into the housing like the FX3 Housing. I emailed Nauticam and they suggested looking into something like the Kraken Crossbar. My concern is that the crossbar might put the monitor up uncomfortably high above the camera housing. The other alternative I was thinking of would be to see if I could mount a 1" ball under it and clamp it onto the housing that way. Anyone have experience or recommendations with using this T7 monitor with a non-video camera housing?

Maybe a better approach if you want both options is to have a custom mode for each of them, so the AF lever activates regular AF in one mode and eye AF in the other. Then to access them just turn the mode dial?

Here nice video https://www.instagram.com/reels/DaWzEVKS2PP/ found this instagram account with m67 adapter & magnifier Divereveryday shop has M67 adapter for M1PRO https://diveveryday.com/m67-lens-adapter-for-gopro-mission1/

Ive spend one week in Koh Tao and another week in Bangkok where i was able to do some tests to the Mission 1 Pro & GP13 and in my opinion the M1PRO has strong limitations without proper underwater lens to get some focus back on. Gp-log2 is amazing for color grading, so much flexibility but the lack of focus is really challenging. Dynamic Range and low light in M1PRO is way better than Gp13 and with right distance is possible to get great scenery images, the weak point of GP13. I want to like the M1PRO but unless some 3rd party manufacturer offer correction wet lens specific for focus distance its waste of time in underwater use.

And how do you handle that in 'non-exclusive' situations? 😁 Have you ever assigned Eye AF to a specific button? It would be possible to assign it to the AF-On lever, but then you lose the option for regular servo AF, which isn't really an option for me. It's a shame, Canon doesn't allow more customizable button assignments on the R5 – it's improved on the R5 Mark II, though still not perfect. And yes, I've been using backbutton focus for about 15 years now.

As per topic headline: I'm reaching out to those who have ACTUALLY USED AN EMWL. The question really has to do with "best practices" and reality of getting into and out of the water with this massive chunk of glass and electronics. BOAT ENTRY AND EXIT discussions ONLY - PLEASE I'm aware the "textbook" recommendation is to jump in with all parts separate and assemble in the water. That leads to my question about the usefulness of the reflex arm attachment with dual ball mounts ostensibly for use with a 3 way clamp to attach float and arm at a distant point. I must be total fumble fingers as the thought of trying to attach a 3-way clamp, while in water, while not dropping a $2k+ lens and or my strobe, into the depths, kinda eludes me. I've watched the video where @Alex_Mustard describes taking everything apart to clear copepods from between sections, but never actually SEEN anyone do this maneuver. My dry-land/ pre-trip imagination has me attaching the focus unit via bayonet and covering it, while soft case carry the reflex element and optic in a pocket. Then after rig handed off to me in water, assemble the pieces. OR Assemble fully prior to entry and disassemble underwater to clear? Thoughts?

I completely agree with you. Eye AF is useful in certain situations, but in practice I almost exclusively use the standard AF with the expanded AF area. I have autofocus assigned to the AF-ON button, while the shutter button is only used to take the picture. In other words, autofocus and shutter release are completely separated (back-button focusing).

Another option other members have been happy with is the Howshot 140mm, about half the price of Nauticam.

@Adventurer I'm not familiar with that reputation and I think you might be totally wrong there. According to Nauticam (having consulted Ryan Canon as well as a few others who frequently have used both wwl:s) there are no IQ differences, only different optimization for different focal lengths. So I don't know where you get that from? I've also researched the WACP-C as an option to the wwl:s and consulted Nauticam reps as well as a few "qualified" Nauticam shooters, ready to spend the €€€€, but they all advised any IQ variations would be hard to detect, much like the conclusion Interceptor came to in the pool test you referred to earlier. One big difference is if you're in the surface a lot and will have an issue with the wet "layer" of the optics. There are of course many variables going into what suits "you" and your shooting. YMMV.

No, I haven't read the Divemaster yet. Then I'd be interested to know if you use the eye AF and how you've assigned the buttons/levers on the Nauticam housing to use it effectively.

I use it for a long time :) The first article in the Divemaster was from my side...maybe you have read it :)

interesting!

good question - i have a seperate adapter for a retra flash.