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Came across an interesting option today - its basically a soft roller with a thinner backpack that attaches to it - but you can connect the two together and use it as a backpack if the ground doesn't suit a roller. You will need to add a divider set into it like @bvanant did. Unfortunately Granite Gear don't make this model any more☹️ but ebay or Craigslist might find you one, or you might find one available on Temu or Aliexpress as the Chinese factories often sell old designs that they used to make for big name brands. The main section is 20cm deep so perfect for most UW photo gear. https://www.granitegear.com/cross-trek-2-22-carry-on-wheeled-upright-with-removable-pack.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1WXgeVNmZU

This appeared in one of my feeds today - might be useful - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006280445673.html

Hi @DocTock - very fair questions and ones we all face. As background, I own and constantly use: WWL, WACP-C, WACP-1, and domes. It comes down to the right tool for the right need and personal taste. For overall general dives my go-to is the WACP-C/WWL. Reasons: 130 degree FoV on the wide end, zoom ability, edge-to-edge sharpness, solid corner sharpness specifically, ability to use more open apertures while maintaining sharpness, incredible close-focus capabilities such as focusing on a starfish with the dome almost touching the arm. The WWL is a wet mount lens with the WACP-C being very similar but a dry mount. I typically dive the WACP-C when home simply because I do not need to travel and it is easy to handle on boat dives. The WWL offers basically the same quality in a smaller, easier to pack solution. The WWL is also less of an initial investment in water contact optics. While the WWL/WACP does produce a slight fisheye effect, I personally prefer that to stretched corners especially in a wide reefscape. Yes, I may on rare occasion de-fish the image slightly in post if the desired outcome warrants this. A rectilinear lens could be more appropriate if doing mainly wreck interiors or subjects that are predominantly defined straight lines. I use my domes mainly for splits or when I want to use a true fisheye lens (8-15) for ultra wide images. As an example, for my specific dive today I am using my 8-15 with a 2x TC behind a dome for the Goliath aggregation. I find this a bit wider than the WACP-C while allowing me some zoom if needed. Again, I stress this is all personal experience and personal taste. There is no definitive best solution for all. Others will swear by rectilinear lenses and domes. There are tradeoffs with every solution and I am not championing one over another. We can all dive what we want. I am sharing my experience and what I have seen based on using a variety of options. Enjoy! chip

Hello, I’d like to ask a question: based on what you’ve said, it seems possible to mount the MX double flip on ports other than Marelux or Nauticam—for instance, would it be compatible with S&S ports that have an M67 thread? How does the protrusion of the CMC-1 lens fit relative to the thread? I’m looking at double-flip holders to mount Nauticam lenses on S&S ports. Many thanks.

Emirates insisted on weighing my Pelican 1510 case once in AMS and said it was too heavy. I opened the top, showed them the contents, explained the value, cried, wept, pleaded…. and the manager said ok. I think she was just glad to get rid of me. The only time it has happened in many dozen flights on many airlines.

I always travel with a (now) Kraken was (Cinebags) Grouper XL as a portable rinse tank. During the journey is carries lots of my gear in the cabin. A bit pricey but they are excellent travel bags and rinse tanks.

Hoping that we might be able to compile a list of 3rd Party Full Frame wide and macro lenses for mirrorless cameras that are suitable for underwater photography. In another thread @Phil Rudin mentioned the Laowa 12mm F2.8 Lite Zero-D FF rectilinier lens - available for Sony E & Nikon Z in AF, and Sony E, Nikon Z, Canon RF and L Mount as MF - US$699 for all versions - usable behind a 180mm port. Once we get a few sugegstions up here I will start a spreadsheet.

Weird - I've never had my carry-on weighed by Emirates despite many trips from Australia to Egypt on them. Years ago I had a photographers vest made that had pockets on the front for lenses etc, and a sleeve on the back for a 17 inch laptop, but I have misplaced it somewhere.

Have you tried de-fishing in post?

You can certainly travel with a small tube of penetrating oil, and having been in some very remote locations (where fresh water was in short supply) I now will communicate with the dive resort or homestay ahead of the time to ask if they can order (or store) an extra 5 gallon (or 18.9 liter) jug of water just for my use. I always offer to pay for this... In Sulawesi the water will cost about $2 USD, and a new jug (if they charge you for it) will be $6 USD. I have offered resorts or home stays $20 USD to have a jug just for my use (for camera gear) - I haven't had a problem getting this (although sometimes I've had to wait a day or two to get it after arriving). There are several collapsable rinse buckets you can get (that can double as containers for your camera rig in small boats). No issues traveling with one of these.

sorry, i didnt format my reply well! everything after 'phenomenal little setup' was to Dave

Thank you so much.

A good substitute for Kroil is a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone. I have also used alcohol in place of acetone with moderate success.

@MatthewSullivan I own a 230mm Zen dome at present. I do NOT own any wide angle Nauticam wet lenses, nor the WACP. Ideally I'd like to buy the least amount of gear switching from D850 to Z8.

I take care of that tomorrow and send some photos.

Actually, I want them to fit. Any way to get a measurement from pin to pin before I purchase?

Our pins are threaded stainless Allen screws. If they don’t fit you can just backed them up.

Agree with Dave with regards to WWLC/24-50. phenomenal little setup. @Dave_Hicks WACP is an improvement vs wwlc but whether that improvement is worth the size vs cost...YMMV. Since you have WWL, the WACP-C wont (imo) be worthwhile. If you were going to do one, the WACP1 would be the more worthwhile upgrade

Amazing encounter, and awesome video. Thanks for sharing. I applaud how you can keep calm and breath normally during the entire video. Me, I already double my breathing rate if I see a blue ring octopus..🤦‍♂️ Ajay

Thanks. Another question, though. The MX double flip has detent pins that keep it from rotating on the port. Do you know if these will work with my AOI port? I currently have a Nauticam single flip holder and their detent pins do work on my port.

Yes it should fit and it does come with the mounting tool. The threaded part is built-in.

Hi Phil, I have a question about the MX double flip. How is it actually screwed onto the M67 threads of a flat port? Is there a tool that comes with it? I would be attaching it to an AOI FLP-02P port. Thanks.

Hi, this is my first post with a 3d print. I made a zoom gear for the Canon EF-S 18-55mm IS STM. Link bellow https://www.printables.com/model/1847405-seafrogs-zoom-gear-for-canon-ef-s-18-55mm-f35-56-i Just wanted to share this if someone happens to need it. I use it with the FL60 (port originally for EF-S 60mm Macro). It vignettes till 24mm and then hits the glass at 40mm. The gear has 76 teeth, which is diffetent from the 75 I have seen on a different SeaFrogs gear on this forum before, but it does work. (I dont have an official gear for reference so I just guessed the parameters) I know that there is a post with tested prints. Is only me printing it ok or is there some kind of validaton to get in?

The WWL-C/ Z24-50 is demonstrably better than the 16-35 solutions. Sharper and a much bigger range as well. I don't have the WACP setups to try but I have a hard time finding validation that they are superior to the WWL-C. I might consider the more reasonably sized WACP-C as a dry solution vs wet.