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AN 8-15 fisheye is an excellent lens and IMO a 16-35 is not a replacement for it as it doesn't focus particularly close so is likely to need a large 230mm dome port to do its best. You could consider a sigma fisheye but that's unfortunately also discontinued. A quick look shows quite a few 8-15 lenses on sale from second hand camera stores in Japan which might be a good option, they are advertised on Ebay. In rectilinear lenses, the 15-30 STM lens and 14-35 focus much closer and work better in domes including smaller domes like the 180mm, sample images are found here, where you can compare performance of the lenses: Your problem with the WWL is that the Nauticam port chart does not have any recommendations for full frame and the WWL-1B, they list the WWL-C with the 24-50, however the 24-50 doesn't receive good reviews. The WWL is only slightly wider than the the 16-35 lens in the horizontal axis. What's best probably really depends on what you shoot, for reef scenics and CFWA, the fisheye is king, anything needing some reach like pekagics maybe the rectilinear or look into the 8-15 plus 1.4x.

I use the think tank street walker hard drive, Carries my Nauticam OM-1 plus two retra strobes with dome, canon 8-15 and bits and pieces. It includes a laptop sleeve. The Think Tank bags are really well built, I got mine back in 2009 and it has had a lot of use and is still going strong. Pic of it loaded up below, It has Nauticam housing, Zen 170mm dome, Zen 100mm dome, macro port, two INON Z-240s and lenses to use in these ports plus batteries for all .

..and that should have brought you to the conclusion not to use WWL on Canon Naughtycam Systems and put a 3rd party dome on your shopping list. Please report back WASO once you have some shots with what you bought.

The Inon S220 strobes (75w/s, GN22) are considerably stronger than the Ikelite Echo strobes (50 w/s, GN15). However, the Echos will support the Olympus RC for TTL control and several of my dive buddies use the RC control to their advantage with the YS-D3 Duo, even stronger (GN33?) and the TG cameras. I have a set of the Inon S220 strobes and I can see that they are stronger than the Ikelite DS50 (now Echo with the added optical functions) and nearly as strong as the YS-D3 with the diffuser installed. And they are reliable and cost effective, so RC be darned, I would go with the S220 strobes. I pair mine with a NA-6400 and a NA-R50 systems. The Echos are good little strobes and while I know I just said I prefer the S220, if RC is an important function to the OP and if they are for certain verified functional with the TG RC then I can see that be a good combo. I think two of them would pair well with a TG, especially for macro and fish pics.

I find Lowerpro bags to be excessively heavy - my Think Tank AirPort Express (or Airport something-or-the-other, anyway) backpack is a little over 1kg, and also square, which makes it more space efficient than the rounded Lowepro bags. Like you, my carryon is around 14kg when I travel with my Marelux kit, so I avoid rollers (which add more weight). It's a bit of a pain in the ass when boarding/deboarding but it isn't the end of the world and all that gym time finally has a practical payoff too. :) @Apneagraph you should be able to fit all that kit into a much smaller bag with care. Even something like a ThinkTank shoulder bag, actually. Or consider getting an Osprey backpack and putting a camera insert in there for the stuff that needs protection. That will be lighter and also easier to carry. I'll share some photos of my travel setup for my Nauticam M4/3 shortly, as well.

That’s lovely. Thanks.

I, too, vote for the Inon S220 seems a good choice for its size and power. Also, consider the Backscatter MF-2 or 3. They shoot TTL with Olympus and definitely good for fish portraits and certainly macro. You can press them into action with wider lenses but that’s not ideal.

I'm looking through some options for a wide-angle options for Canon R6 Mk II in Marelux housing. As EF 8-15 Fisheye is quite hard to find, I'm looking for some alternative. Gear I currently have EF 16-35 F2.8 III L WWL-1B (was using this with Nauticam R50) At this point, I’m unsure whether I should: Use the EF 16–35mm with a dome port, or Try to build a setup that works with the WWL-1B on a Marelux housing Getting a new lens is also an option if it makes more sense overall. Also, have anyone tried Marelux Aquista 120? From the port chart, it seems like it works with EF 16-35 but I cannot find any review or sample images. Any suggestions, experiences, or sample images would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Hoping someone is looking to part ways with a good condition Nauticam Double Flip holder. I figured I'd check here before pulling the trigger on a new one. Extra points if anyone is selling a SAGA Dual Flip holder as that would be my preference. Thanks in advance!

Hard to go past the little S220 INON, very compact and powerful enough. The TG-6 at max zoom if f6.3 at most anything beyond that is an ND filter and gets to f18 - mostly useful to pressures ambient light if you want a black background, but apart from that doesn't need a lot of strobe power as you are mostly in very close for macro work.

Hi all. Looking at getting into strobes for my TG-5 (currently using BS 4300 video lights which are ok but scare the fish). Mostly focused on Macro and Fish Portraits but not opppsed to some wide angle in the future Currently looking at: Ikelite Ecko Fiber: $500 ea, supports RC TTL, neutral in water YS-D3 Duo: Divervision has for $500 ea, supports RC TTL, slightly larger, reliability a bit more all over the map Inon S220: $400 ea, no RC support, small for travel Thoughts? I am interested in the RC TTL because it seems to be a “better” automated decision maker, I am not super smart in how to do settings but willing to learn as I progress.

This was filmed over nearly 80 dives in the kelp forests near Browning Passage off northern Vancouver Island (God's Pocket area). Sites include Daphne Point, Hardy Bay, 7 Tree Island, Rock of Life, Browning Wall and Andy's Reef. This was filmed on my Sony A7SIII using both a Sony 16-35mm F4 lens and my Laowa 10mm F2.8 wide angle lens.

@Davide DB That is true wisdom and some of the best advice for is all. Nothing beats the experience gained and the memories made from using the gear in which we invested so much! Truth is, there are really no “bad” cameras these days, especially the ones being discussed.

Thanks, this link works. Actually, I was already reading the whole thread a few days ago (before I started this thread).

Try again: https://waterpixels.net/forums/topic/1438-testing-nauticam-n120-port-extension-for-140mm-and-180mm-domes-with-wide-angle-lenses/?&do=findComment&comment=13817 The links on the forum are not active everywhere in the box, you have to hover over the title, caught me out a few times, hopefully this link works, it's just to show minimal difference with a change in extension on a fisheye.

Found my instructional post with sample images on how to conduct the final test:

If the light situation allows, I was always trying to shoot at least between F13 and F16 which makes the corner sharpness somehow acceptable for me, even better @ F18. With the small dome, I would probably always try to stop down to F16 as well. That's all I can squeeze out of the system (5D4 with 8-15/4), all images with a 230mm superdome: No crop, Canon 5D4, 8-15/4 (no TC), F14: 100% crop lower left corner: Slightly better with F16, same combination: 100% crop lower left corner: It sometimes makes sense to place the focus point quite far forward, because the corners of the image (at least with reef images) are usually closer to the sensor than the image center. The exception, of course, is a wall. Canon 5D4, 8-15/4 (+1,4 Kenko TC!) @ 19mm, F13: 100% crop lower right corner: Canon 5D4, 8-15/4 (+1,4 Kenko TC!) @ 21mm, F14: 100% crop lower right corner: And finally an example of the R5, 8-15/4 (no TC), F16: 100% crop lower left corner: That's something I would really appreciate.

Aloha and welcome @AquaZ !

Hi Susa, Could you give us some more details about the problems you encountered with the AF in macro? You are talking about shooting on land and in photography, right? No video?

Thanks - it's now on my shopping list. Unfortunately I just see a white rectangle and no link. 🤔 Well, I can imagine that using the 8-15 on a 4/3 is a maximum of flexibility. I asked a friend of mine to send me images from the WACP-C made with a 5D4 and an EF 28-80. I'm very curious to compare these pictures with mine, taken with the 8-15 and 1.4TC.

I would at least send them pictures and see if they still try to deny it.

I looked at the the two pics from the corners in that post I linked above and didn't see anything that set the world on fire. Please show us the images so that we can see the improvements. Otherwise we can agree to disagree.

Regarding the GP-TUNE plugin its very easy to use, but its important to read the Manual and their tutorial to make sure you get the correct profile settings in davinci. https://xtremestuff.net/gp-tune-plugin-manual/

Heres another example

Ive got better results using Wide + Flat, in terms of sharpness/crisp/color and specially more details in dark parts...