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Just out of curiosity: in case one would switch from Nauticam (e.g. A7R5) to Marelux A75(R6) housing, would it be possible to mount a single adapter to the Marelux housing and continue to use all Nauticam ports/extensions (and adjust the regular Nauticam extensions for an easy to achieve distance (e.g. +/- 10mm) to compensate for the difference in sensor<->port mount distance)? Which one?

It found a home

@Mike Saunders Better luck tomorrow!

They could be different types of glass, there are many different types of optical glass around. BK7 is one of the most common. The procedure is staright forward - on a dive boat either keep the lens wet or apply the wet neoprene lens cover and keep it cool. Soak the lens for a period in fresh water. Then remove it and dry it straight away. I have a battery duster that I use, you could also use a blower attachment on a scuba tank or a compressed ir hose, depending on what you have available. They dry with a microfibre cloth.

I just recently published it on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2877582-float-for-backscatter-hf-1-strobe-220g-buoyancy

i think i am far away on the other side of the world... are the print file available anywhere?

to be honest it was impossible shore night dive with swell and my mask misting up. could barely see let alone focus. turned strobes off and carried in with ring light only. makes one hell of a torch for night dives but really the surge was too much to get decent photos 😐 a calmer longer dive and more time would help

Mike, Thanks! It makes sense that the ring light would falloff pretty quickly with distance. How did your experiment supplementing with strobes go? Did you use the ring light in strobe mode?

Same for you as well! Great seller and buyer!

On the Mission 1 pro has being added range to the already existent Auto and fixed Shutter Range : 1/120 - 1/7680 1/240 - 1/7680 1/360 - 1/7680 Iso Range: 25-100 25-200 25-400 25-800 25-1600 25-3200 25-6400 And now is visible Shutter -iso - ev comp - wb in the top of the screen

For underwater photography the $2800.00US 33mp Sony A7 V is the best full frame entry level camera in the market hands down. The best verity of U/W related lenses to select from at a wide range of price points, excellent AF speed, tracking speed and much more. Being able to use both the A7 V and the A7R VI in the same housing adds to the value as your needs grow. The housing supports FlashFuel 2100 for manual flash plus extra battery power, it also supports remote shutter trigger up to about 10 meters and has two M16 and one M24 mounts for accessories like vacuum, remote monitor, external USB -C charging, external flash triggers and more. Attached a few photos of the housing and excessories. US retail $3398.00. The housing can be ordered as an A7R VI or A7 V with kit for user conversion for use with both cameras.

I'm using Sony alpha 6000 series in a housing using the pop up flash to trigger using fiberoptic cables - (made using the excellent article on this forum) I did indeed mention the wrong backscatter strobe - I meant the atom! 🤦‍♂️ I can see that the sea and sea ys d3 is available for around £500 in the uk and the atom is about £600 I was planning on using manual settings but are either of these units capable of delivering reliable TTL using my existing pop up flash triggered system? I'm keen to start doing wideangle as well as macro

I've put my order in for this lens. Shipping July 24. Waiting to hear back from Marelux on whether or when they will support zoom gear and extension.

exported to JPEG and the worm thing copped from original

What system do you have? The Backscatter strobes do not have universal TTL and only work with their proprietary trigger or OM cameras. There is a big power and size jump between the YSD3 and the HF-1, maybe the new Atom is closer to your needs, assuming you have an OM camera. The price Delta between the HF-1 plus float collar is not that great compared to the Retra Maxi which does have universal TTL and some other features, like a huge power range and neutral buoyancy and a for real warranty I hope not to need ;). YS strobes have not been noted for their reliability now for several generations, not sure if the D3 is any better or their newer D130.

Blue or even Red! The HF-1 w/float is a bit bigger than the Retra, but not by a lot. Max diameter is about 15mm more, height and weight are nearly the same as the Retra's are heavier to start with. When I first put the Retra Maxi's on my Rig, replacing the HF-1s, it was annoyingly buoyant and unbalanced. I had to remove 2 Stix Jumbo blocks (180grams each) to get it back in some sort of decent trim. The HF-1 floats are a bit more buoyant the Stix Jumbo at 220 grams each. Using the HF-1 floats now is actually a big convenience because I don't need to Add/Remove Stix blocks on my arms when I switch between Retra and HF-1 strobes.

Larger housings actually are generally more buoyant than smaller housings. With Retra Maxi strobes on my NA-6400 (or NA-R50) I need to tie a string on the rig and pull it around like a helium balloon at the fair. I am going to have to remove some floatation or add lead. That is with a 4.33 dome, with the WWL it is a few ounces negative still and either way balance is perfect. I do not know if it was engineering expertise or just luck but the Retra Maxi strobes are perfect in the water, neutral, sometimes bigger is more littler. The price Delta between the HF-1 and the Retra Maxi is not huge, with floats on the HF-1 it is larger than the Maxi. But if I had an HF-1, I think I would want a set of those floats, looks like a great solution to a boat anchor of a strobe and they look professional and I bet they can be gotten in blue!

Bigger housings are not buoyant as well therefore in the end, you also end up adding more floats to them than what you add on a smaller camera.

perhaps I could put this another way sea and sea ysd3 or backscatter hf1 hybrid?

But in any cases, it does not really explain why a Nauticam glass dome would more resistant to water burn than a Nauticam wet angle lens. Something is not right here or port and wetlens have different type of glasses. At the end of the day, I wouldn't buy any second hand "burnt' WWL without seeing that it has no impact on image quality underwater.

Perhaps, but in general higher concentrations of salts are more corrosive, in any case you can't dissolve these markings, maybe they have etched the glass, maybe the compounds have chemically combined with components in the glass. Apparently BK7 glass (a common optical glass) only has moderate chemical resistance. This topic has been raised many times and reports are dissolving the spots doesn't work and they require polish to remove. Whatever the mechanism, the cause is still allowing water to evaporate on the glass and the prevention is blowing off or wiping dry so evaporation doesn't occur. Apparently cerium oxide is slightly softer than BK7 glass and can polish without causing micro scratches.

If you are a photographer and want no bubbles in your photos go very early as the wreck is a bubble machine by mid am. They flow up thru the structure all day . The other note is shoot the fish in the shallows as divers buy the score go over you wanting to swim thru stuff and never notice the life out front.Many fish are in the shallows under the mast or to the east (to your left at entry point) in the shallows where there is nice coral as well. We have dove this area for years and its not as well traveled.

Lovely photo. The first image was a bit diferent to the normal high quality goby photos I see with nice color contrasts to the sea squirt and the green dots. Lovely composition.

Beautiful film :)

Not the documentary you want to see before a blackwater dive 😀