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I can put a couple of connectors in an envelope for you that will work better and can be assembled/disassembled easily. No glue needed. Message me with an address.

A blob of Superglue a few millimetres below the end of the cable.

Does anyone know the best way to fix this- I have tried just popping the cord into the connector head but it always just pops out and doesn't stay in....

Sony/Nauticam users, I have a (dumb?) question for y'all about the LCD/ViewFinder switch on the housing. Namely: Does it actually have any function and can you really configure things to use that to switch between the two modes somehow? As it stands, I can't see any way to get that switch to function productively. In VF position, I can definitely use the viewfinder. In LCD position, it brings down the black shutter and blocks the viewfinder, but that doesn't seem to aid in activating the LCD at all? Quite the opposite, as if the camera is in auto VF/LCD mode, blocking the viewfinder triggers the auto sensor and turns off the LCD. So, is there a way to tweak the camera settings to make that switch functional? I've tried reading the online guides, but all I can find is info on assigning a custom button to bring up the viewfinder menu and then switching manually, but that doesn't use the switch on the housing. So, why have the switch if it is not at all functional??? As an aside, the easiest way I currently can find to switch between the two modes, is to simply turn off the camera and then turn it back on. It'll activate the LCD until the first time I look through/block the viewfinder at which point it turns off the LCD and then it stays off until I repeat the power cycle. If there's a better way, I"m all ears. Thanks for any info you can share!

I had condensation problems for a while, eventually traced it to a leak on one of the buttons. when i pressed it a tiny drop of water got in. Stripping down the button and cleaning the shaft cured the problem.

Ive optimized the GP13 with Gopro labs FW + 2 dive lights (5000Lumens) and AOI wide angle lens, it works very well between 10cm and 50cm. The Mission 1 pro dynamic range is capable of doing much better than the GP13 like ambient with or without natural light, but M1PRO has more like cinema softness image that dont work well underwater. My advice, take a backup camera...the GR140 will help but will be far from perfect.. Also any other video mode outside of gplog2 will be waste of time in underwater Mode, increase the resolution to 300Mbps using gopro labs FW, Max ISO 800..

That would of course be another option, but it would take me a little more time to switch quickly. I'll probably start by training my little finger.😁

First test in water today on the A7SIII with the Anker Nano powerbank - I opened the housing and turned on the powerbank 20 minutes before the dive. The first dive was 120 minutes, and the powerbank powered the camera for 90 minutes, after which it turned off (empty?) and the battery went to camera battery mode. I had 80% camera battery power left at the end of the dive. Now turning off the camera when not in use, I went for a second dive, 110 minutes, and camera battery was at 38% at the end of the second dive. This gives me an estimated runtime of 225 minutes for a new Sony NP-FZ100 battery, to which the Anker powerbank adds roughly 90 minutes, so a total of roughly 315 minutes (5 hours 15 minutes), being conservative (turning off the camera) when on the camera battery. I was shooting 4K video, 60fps to 120fps

Heres a 240fps clip Notice the focus diference between the fish school that are closed to the camera (in focus) to the others further away (not in focus) Ive adjust the blurry in davinci to be more noticeable in the clip. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jHAZiEgX94

To be honest, I expect worst at that close distance. I will see with a close-up lens how it will be.

It is possibly a change in weather with more humid air , there is not much temperature drop to be causing condensation. The other thing that can happen is getting a few drops of water inside the housing and these evaporate if the housing is in the sun for example, this will significantly increase the humidity inside. You can often get drops clinging to your o-rings. Silica gel can help but it must be fresh and you probably need a good size packet with a large housing. If the air is at all humid they will saturate quickly if not sealed up.

Just the camera..no lens The GP13 at same distance is fine..

This looks like quite a close-up, if not even a macro. Did you use a wet lens or just the camera without any attached lens?

This was snorkeling.... (reduced video speed) is possible to see that the Christmas tree worms are always out of focus https://youtube.com/shorts/olfV4AyEU7s?feature=share

sold

It depends on the entry for me. Most of my diving is shore diving so that's easy, enter the water with the kit fully in place then as I'm heading to the site underwater I just loosen and the click back into place each component. Really simple. For boat entries I take the EMWL off prior to going in, then enter as normal with my main rig, no different to any other entry. I'll then have someone on the boat pass me down the EMWL which I have all 3 parts attached to each other, and as I'm decending I'll put it onto the rig, then loosen and reattach each component as I'm heading to the site. Once you're used to the bayonets it's quite easy. Its not the kind of rig where you jump in and immediately shoot, like you might do with regular WA for dolphins or whales or seals etc so you can take your time. The swing arm looks useful in theory and probably works well, but for me I prefer to go in with the mindset of shooting in a particular way, knowing I might miss the occasional opportunity but it keeps me focussed on my pre dive photo plan. Others might do it differently Mike

Hey Kadu! Great to have you with us. A warm welcome to Waterpixels. A D500 eh? I love that camera! Brilliant for underwater. Enjoy the forum. Best wishes

Aloha and welcome @HugzzPictures !

Hey everyone! 👋 I'm Kadu Pinheiro from Brazil. Underwater photography has been my passion—and my profession—since 2004, and I'm excited to be part of this community. I shoot with a Nikon D500 in an Aquatica housing, focusing mainly on reefs, sharks, and wide-angle photography, although I also enjoy cave diving and macro whenever the opportunity comes up. Professionally, I'm the Editor-in-Chief of Nitrox Magazine (IANTD's official magazine) and the Marketing Director for Blue Force Fleet, so I'm almost always thinking about diving, whether I'm shooting, writing, or creating content. I've been fortunate enough to dive and photograph incredible destinations, including Indonesia, the Maldives, Red Sea, Saudi Arabia, Malásia, Seychelles, Cocos Island, Galápagos, Malpelo, Revillagigedo, the Caribbean islands, Mexico, the United States, and many more. I'm always happy to talk about underwater photography, gear, techniques, marine life, or simply swap stories about unforgettable dives. I'm looking forward to learning from everyone here, sharing experiences, and hopefully contributing something useful along the way. Follow my instagram: @kadupinheiro and web site: kadupinheiro.com Cheers, Kadu

Assemble and seal housing in an air conditioned room. This reduces humidity in the housing. You can use a scuba tank & drying nozzle to spray extra dry air in the housing as you seal it. Microwave your silica packets as they are probably saturated. A few rounds of 5 minutes at 50% power. Store in a Ziploc bag to keep the extras dry.

See if you can purge the housing before closing with dry compressed air from a tank (gently). Or one of those cans of nitrogen for blowing dust from equipment and electronics. And then close up and pull the vacuum.

I’m currently in a shoot in South Africa and for the first three weeks, no issues. Recently though, I have been getting condensation in the inside of my glass dome port and it’s rendering footage unusable. Any tips to avoid this? Nothing has changed, the camera and housing are assembled in the same room and sand conditions. The only slight change is a -1 degree temp change in the water. I have a small silica gel sachet at the back of the housing. Set up is: Red Komodo X for n a nauticam housing Zen 230mm glass dome Canon 24-105 Ext 60 and 30 attached together. Anything I can do to stop this as it’s never happened before. Air temp is 20-25 degrees, water temp 22-23.5 degrees

Bienvenue à bord Hugo ! Si ton application fonctionne un peu mieux que google images, que j'essaye d'utiliser régulièrement pour des espèce au stade larvaire ou juvénile, ça sera très utile 😁

Salut Hugo! Et bien venue à Waterpixels. Nous sommes ravis de t'accueillir à notre forum. Avec mes meilleurs vœux Tim