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Thanks guys.. from your experience and advices I think I'll have to use them until they die..😢😢😢 it’s a pity because as a guy that use them only one time a year during summer holidays i like them a lot… 😭 maybe this is the reason they discontinued the product so early without a real substitute?? Thanks again!

I have a CMC2 that I'm considering upgrading to an SMC (probably an SMC 3 but would consider the 2) to pair with the sony 28-60 lens I currently have. Nauticam port charts don't list the SMC series with the zoom lens, only with the 90/100mm macro lenses. So, I was wondering if it actually works and is worth the upgrade? I am planning to buy a 100mm macro lens for my trip to Anilao in '27, so I'll probably end up buying one eventually - but if it won't really work with the lens I have there's no point in buying now.

I was in Lembeh last year and I just used the 60mm and MFO3 and I think I had half a dozen subjects where I thought I might have needed more magnification. The 60mm on m43 at max magnification covers a frame that is 17mm across which is quite small, easily suitable for 10mm long subjects. If you want more magnification the CMC-2 covers a frame 10mm across at 33mm working distance. The CMC-1 gets to 8mm across at 22mm working distance. To me even the 33mm working distance is difficult to light well and I recall quite a few posts expressing that the CMC-2 was the more useful option because of this. The CMC-2 is about a +10 as I recall. I did however find plenty of subjects where the MFO3 was useful, larger frogfish, scorpionfish, rhinopias, pipefish, octopus, mantis shrimp and also every site has lots of anemonefish of many different species - I can't swim past them. Even subjects that you could get away with the 60mm benefit as you get in so much closer when using the MFO3 making backscatter control easier. My Lembeh trip report is here:

I have a Bambu X1-Carbon, but if I was buying now, as @Dave_Hicks says, the Bambu Labs X2D would probably be at the top of my list. One of the nice things about the Bambu Labs products is that you are buying into a whole ecosystem that all work well together. I would plan on buying one or two (at a minimum) AMS units as well, especially if you think that you might want to print any multi-color designs.

FS : Nauticam N100 to N120 35.5mm Port Adaptor I,II Both are in very good condition. #37305 Nauticam N100 to N120 35.5mm Port Adaptor II for $370 include free shipping Worldwide #37302 Nauticam N100 to N120 35.5mm Port Adaptor I for $250 include free shipping Worldwide but contact me first For more information, please contact me [email protected]

FS: Retra Pro * 2 set (include Bumper, Protective ring, Optical cables) ALL parts are in excellent condition, There are some fine scratches on the exterior., extremely well cared for, never leaked, no issues. Both strobes are updated regularly and are current with the latest firmware. Asking US$1,350 include free shipping Worldwide but contact me first For more information, please contact me [email protected]

I absolutely agree with your analysis and I came to a similar conclusion. Due to the crop factor, we can forget the ILS version for wide angle (but the mission 1 pro will be interesting). I played a bit with the idea of building a compact macro system around the ILS version, but honestly, it makes more sense to spend the same money on an MFT camera with a properly communicating macro lens with AF. Not to mention that according some rumours, the new Sony RX100 camera with 1 inch sensor is around the corner. Probably a safer bet to build an underwater camera system around it.

One of my D2000 strobes had the same issue after getting bumped pretty hard, after many years of reliable service. I sent it off to a well known repair service and he agreed to repair it. That was three years ago. Crickets chirping. I moved on to the S220 and now some Retras. That is one of the downsides of Inon (and that they now make only the S220) is that there are no parts, no support and no service. And really, the same with YS. Well, perhaps there is a little service for YS but they go TU more often so net, net. Basically, I feel your pain but can provide little hope.

No. But someone should.

I have 3 Inon 330 strobes and two of them died due to this exact problem with the main power switch. I got one repaired when they were still in support, but the other died sometime later after support was ended. You can contact Inon, but I don't think they will fix them anymore.

Hi guys, I’ve 3 inon Z330 and I’ve a problem with two of them… The main switch is inconsistent , the click between mode when rotating the switch it’s almost gone… and sometimes one of them didn’t go on or off…. Also when it’s turned off, if you touch the switch without rotating it the red light come on and off… Underwater almost everything seems ok.. when on they perform as usual… but I’m worried about reliability.. for what I read around, the switch are the mains problems of this strobes… I know they are discontinued but someone had them repaired? There are spare parts available? Thanks! Fabio

You could almost film a frog fish eating, almost.

Seriously, you can buy a good 3D printer for the cost of ONE zoom gear! That's just $250 USD for an Bambu A1 Mini. For well under $1000 you can buy an amazing machine that will pretty much tackle any material and any scenario you can imagine. If I were to buy a 1st printer today it would be a Bambu X2D and an AMS combo for under $900. At least for created functional prints. (like camera, scuba, and household items) If you just want to print multicolor flexi-dragons, there are other choices.

Late to the discussion, but I find it interesting as I prepare for my first muck trip to Lembeh in July. I had good results in Roatan with static subjects using my M43 60mm macro plus an Inon 165 (+6 diopter), and even with a borrowed +15 diopter. Based on getting decent Costasiella sp. pics in Roatan with +15 I think I want to add more magnification than the +6. My original thought was just to add a ~+10 so I would have +6, +10, and+16 by mixing/matching. I’ve gotten advice that I’d be better off with a Nauticam CMC-1 to use instead of the Inon +6 and not try to stack. Of course I’ve also gotten advice that I should get an MFO-3! (It’s only money!🤯) In addition to the 60mm I am adding a 30mm OM and 45 mm P/L to my kit to experiment with. (The 30 is primarily for blackwater and the 45 is based on @bvanant ’s advice that it is a great all-rounder macro lens. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks! Evan

So the company im doing work for wants to buy a small 3D printer. Im obviously thinking to use this for my own means, namely designs found on this site 🤣 As they are not decided on brands or models (cheaper end tho), i thought i'd ask here which brands/models people here have. And also is there any special features/settings that needs to be found on the printer if printing things like extension rings (assuming this is more setting focused than zoom gears)? As the prices for printers are getting lower, investing in one and printing 3 or so extension rings can offset the price already if buying privately (thanks @Dave_Hicks ).

Alex: Are you volunteering?

Just message me with details and we can work something out.

Dave, If you could that would be great. I have used JawsTec with no real issues but I would rather send money to a fellow diver and you know exactly what they should be. And they are kinda slow, I have another trip June 22nd I think it is. Let me know, thanks, James

I am 72 and just realised that my dry suit combi with lead and tank weights 27 kilo. Now I understand why I sound like a steamboat when walking up the dike. What a relief to be in the water. Dry suit diving will fall of first. But as long as the docter does not forbid there is always an option. I once saw old hunched-backed people gliding from the back of a liveboard in the water and diving like the best. Its better to be old in water than on land.

Happy for Peter, so sad for us all. Right person, where are you?

Reduction Ring and Bumper set for the Backscatter Atom StrobeI just posted a full Reduction Ring Set for the Backscatter Atom Strobe. I made this several months ago but didn't get around the sharing the design until now. It uses some common parts shared between the reduction rings set for HF-1 and Retra ring sets I've designed. These work great and improve results for Macro/Super Macro work as well as Wide Angle in let the perfectly clear water. https://makerworld.com/en/models/2766433-reduction-ring-set-for-backscatter-atom-strobe#profileId-3072067 Other Underwater Photography models can be found at: https://makerworld.com/en/collections/16165730-uw-photography-by-dave-hicks

Full HD + 960fps + Davinci Resolve 🤟🤟 That is crazy... https://www.instagram.com/reels/DYAFG0-ClNM/

With gp-transform (right image) there much less saturation in color. But the flexibility of GP-tune plugin, i can correct the exposure without making a mess.

Heres few examples

With GP-tune transform im having mix results, and since im using the free davinci resolve im limited. What i do is, i have saved presets, and quickly i can change from gp-tune to IDT