All Activity

I know nothing about the printer - a friend did 2 floats for me in your recommended filament material (dont want to say the wrong salt-water compatible type). One came out looking a bit squashed on one end and is a firm fit over the port; the other as you see is appropriate shape and is slightly loose on the port. Have yet to get either port float wet... Lembeh/ Bangka in July-Aug... I did use the MFO3 bumper on multiple dives in Maldives with no scratches on the glass to report!

bump

bump

bump

bump

bump

bump

That's awesome! I'm very happy you are using the Port Float! I am curious how your experience was printing it. What printer and material did you use? How is it working for you? Cheers - Dave

I already LOVE the 3D printable stuff that @Dave_Hicks has created! You can see in the image below the MFO3 protector in place along with the Port 87 float! However, I'm NOT looking for a HARD cover for a dome. I think @Chris Ross idea to use the OEM Nauticam holder is my last option as I usually store my gear in the pouches and don't want any possible remnants of salt crystals etching/scratching glass/coatings in my non-diving downtime. Here is an image of my gear set as my "jump" for macro. I'm contemplating creating a soft "sack" on each wet diopter and a flat/"bikini" cover over the port. The individual holders clinching over each lens while attached, and the port cover bungee/elastic held in place. I have a pair of old Lavacore lined socks as donor material - I just need someone with neoprene/ underwater thread sewing skills...

Thanks. Yes the larval wonderpus and the squids were shot during Blackwater dives. The coconut octopus was in Anilao pier during night dive.

Does anyone know if this piece of kit is compatible with the Isotta OM-1 housing? I just got off the phone with Backscatter, and they weren't sure as the lower ridge along the M16 bulkhead on the Isotta housing might not be wide enough to accommodate the insert. Has anyone tried this?

We’re shooting in water. So ask yourself how much closer you can be to a subject / something you want to shoot with 25 extra degrees of FoV and what that does to IQ.

Dang, that’s quite a portfolio of greatest hits! I love flamboyant cuttlefish, but the larval octopus are spectacular and get a huge thumbs up from me. I’m guessing those were done on black water dives, eh? Very well done.

Aloha and welcome Nick @andersonsmog ! If you’re going to be serious about underwater photography, you might want to spend more money, so the Ikelite may be your ticket. The housings are bigger and more buoyant but they work well, and Ikelite services what they make, which can be an issue with what may be one and done Sea Frogs housings. Later, you may be seduced with the more svelte aluminum housings (Sea Frogs make these, too) made by Nauticam, Marelux et al. I’m on Oahu if you want to DM me.

Hi Nick! A warm welcome to Waterpixels. Great to have you with us. Where you’ve posted your question is designed just as an intro as part of our anti-spammer system. It’d be much better if you post it as a new topic in the Photography Gear and Techniques forum. I’m sure you’ll get lots of help. Best wishes

hello, my name is Nick, currently I am an above water landscape photographer looking to break into underwater photos, I currently own a a7rv and a 16-35pz, looking to get my first housing. Been looking heavy at salted line and ikelite. Wondering what the pros and cons would be? It appears the ikelike is 3x most cost and does not allow for use of the rear joystick, which the salted line is less expensive and appears to retain all controls. I have been reading about the poor vacuum system of the salted line, is that really an issue? I am leaving for Hawaii on Sunday and would like to make a purchase quickly, am I better going with the more expensive housing and holding off on strobes? Or going with the cheaper salted line and buying some manual strobes? Thank you!

Yup, I did a test this morning. I took the camera out of the housing, and set it to vf (manual). The viewfinder still doesn’t come on until the eye sensor is tripped. So I guess even in the manual modes the eye sensor is still active. I’ll just continue using the power switch.

Yeah, the wider field of view is definitely nice, but from what I've seen, the image quality itself doesn't seem dramatically better, maybe better around the corners. For something that costs €3k+, I'd expect a much more noticeable improvement compared to the regular domes. The comparison images I've seen, especially in situations shooting against the sun, don't really convince me that the image quality is significantly better, but maybe I am wrong...

Yes, it is due to the eye sensor. The eye sensor mistakes the housing as your eye and thinks you are using it. The result is it does not sleep.

The FoV is quite different on those two options, a WACP (or WWL) and a 16-35 behind a dome. The former will give you 130 degrees on the wide end, a 16 will give you around 105 on a FF sensor. 130 degrees

Retra team today tested MAXI strobe with UWTechnics TTL-Converters in TTL, HSS and M modes. Everything worked nice. So, MAXI strobe is fully compatible with UWTechnics TTL-Converters., this is confirmed now.

Thanks @ChipBPhoto and @bghazzal. That is how I have mine setup, finder/monitor manual with C3 to swap. In monitor the camera goes to sleep just fine, but not when the viewfinder is active. I assume it’s due to the eye sensor but I’m not sure. I’ll try again out of the housing and see if that works.

Hey @akarnani , On my a1 I set the view finder selection to be manual. I then set button C3 to switch between the VF and back panel. This allows me to easily switch as needed and defeats the issue of the auto sensor picking up the housing as your eye. This is the same as what @bghazzal shared. It works great! Cheers Chip