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It looks to be a neat solution. I like the try-it-and-see approach for zoom fisheye lenses combined with teleconverters noting that if the fisheye lens can focus close enough to the dome then it is advantageous for CFWA to have the extension as short as possible irrespective of vignetting.

@Chris Ross Here are the non-scientific, “try-it-and-see” results. The housing was placed in the same position on all tests. Details are on each image. Note “16mm” is 8mm plus the 2x TC. There is also an image of the actual 50mm extension setup to validate. The dome is the Nauticam 140 dome with the removable shade attached. The zoom gear used is the Nauticam C815-Z+1.4 The knob on the N100-N120 35.5 adapter controls the zoom gear. Note - the tripod mount on the Metabones V needed to be removed as it was blocked by the lock mechanism in the N100 30 Extension. Remember, this was not intended to be a test of a compelling image or focus chart. It was simply to see what works and does not. I am not interested in math equations regarding perceived optimal lens placement. I just wanted to see the trial and error results. Hopefully this is helpful info.

Since the 16-35 f2.8 GM mark ii has a minimum focus distance of 22cm compared to the 28cm of the mark i, my understanding is that is more flexible with dome diameter. I agree that the lighter acrylic dome is worth considering, especially for snorkelling with whales. It is personal preference, but I like this system when climbing in and out of small boats, although I have a Sony A7Rv in an Isotta housing with Canon 8-15mm plus 1.4x teleconverter and the Sony 20-70mm which both fit the same 60mm extension and 8 inch dome.

Hi Chip, by removing the mount, you mean the tripod mount attached to the Metabones? Good information that a standard zoom gear works with this setup. Does that mesh with the adapter gear or the housing gear? Not doubting what you observed at all, but it does seems odd that your setup vignettes at 60mm plus 35.5mm adapter but Wolfgang reports he uses 60mm total extension with the 35.5mm adapter, the fact some of the extension is on the other side of the adapter should make no difference.

Relisted and price dropped in Marketplace: https://waterpixels.net/marketplace/listing/21-aoi-flp‑06-flat-port-superficial-acrylic-marks-optically-clean-105/

Selling my Ikelite DS160 strobe head. I purchased years back, but never used. Confirmed functions as normal. Simply add a battery. Includes: DS160 head, Diffuser, Manual, and charger **Does not include battery. Price: $250 including shipping to lower 48 Shipping to US only, please. Payment: PayPal F&F (no fee method) or Zelle (add 3.5% for PayPal Goods and Services) Please reach out with any questions. Reasonable offers considered. Thanks for looking!

UPDATE - I was able to remove the mount at the bottom of the Metabones. This allowed the N100 30 Extension to be mounted directly to the housing. Setup in order of assembly: NA-a1, N100 30 Extension, N100-N120 35.5 adapter, N120 20 Extension, Nauticam 140 dome Sony a1, Sony 2x TC, Metabones V, Canon 8-15 Initial image quality looks good. No vignetting with the shade attached. The real test will be in the water soon. BONUS: Based on the setup above, the Nauticam 815+TC Zoom Gear works perfectly!! Collecting all the various bits over the years pays off. 😁 FURTHER UPDATE w/ 60mm: I also setup the following to allow a total of 60mm of extension (30+30): NA-a1, N100 30 Extension, N100-N120 35.5 adapter, N120 30 Extension, 140 dome RESULTS: Shade is very prominent in image until ~12mm. This leaves only 3mm of zoom, which is no zoom at all. In short, the shade must be removed leaving the glass completely unprotected. Image quality does not appear to be noticeably different. Short answer, thank for the useful comments. Fortunately, I have an existing solution and do not need to "invest" any more than already made! WooHoo!!!! Cheers! chip @Architeuthis @Sokrates @Chris Ross @Gudge

Good choice. Now you dont have to second guess about the camera. Theres a good chance you can use the old camera to some extent, fingers crossed. Just dont force it when trying. But to be in the situation where you would need the old body, something really catastrophic would have already happened. For lenses, you could just forget the 16-35 as the 8-15 covers very well, specially with the TC. And have the 140mm dome which would be better for your Polynesia. Or if want to go with big dome route cheaply, get the 8" acrylic dome. They go for €400 used and brand spankers isnt too much either (compared to 230mm glass). And in all seriousness, im still going to suggest Nikonos RS13 for the long term😉 Unless the upcoming Laowa 8-15 AF is really really really good.

All items sold

I followed your advice and bought the A7R VI, the Nauticam housing is arriving this week! There’s also a small chance that the A7 IV will fit the same housing after comparing them side by side, but I’ll have to test it when I get the housing. The next step is choosing the right lens, haha. I’m currently still torn between the WACP-C with the Sony 28–60 kit lens, or going with the larger 230mm dome port. The dome would let me use the 16–35mm f/2.8 GM II that I already own, and it would also work with the Canon 8–15mm fisheye. It’s definitely the more expensive option, but it offers a lot more flexibility underwater, at the cost of a lot of extra weight. Could also use the smaller dome but that's not a good option for the 16-35...

Please contact me if you're wanting to buy. I have one I'm thinking to sell. Gary

As I understand only the mKV works if you want to use it with the TC, the ID of the MkV adapter is bigger so the nose of the teleconverter fits through.

Nice video!

You would expect that with less extension you would not run into vignetting, what this does is move the centre of curvature back behind the entrance pupil of the lens, so it's no longer optimally placed. This will cause I believe a bit more barrel distortion and a slight loss of field of view. Having said all that it seems Fisheye optics are less sensitive to the exact placement of the dome compared to rectilinear lenses in my view, though there are some who will argue this point. It's good to see the performance looked good when you tested it. It seems to be a great very flexible solution. On Wolfwangs's point about zoom gears - I'm not sure I got the meaning exactly, however changing the extension tube in front of the N100-N120 adapter has no impact upon the the zoom gear fit. On the topic of zoom gears I used Wolfgang's adapter solution to get my zoom gear matching the knob in my N85-N120 adapter, but found it would lose mesh when turned unless i provided inward force on the knob. It prompted me to change over to a zoom gear that uses the housing zoom knob and I find that a lot easier to use.

Thanks for the vivid description of your experience, @TimG - sometimes one reads these articles in news feeds, but your description almost had me replaying the entire scene as if I was there (even more so, since we've also been on the same boat a few years ago). The article should be a must-read for divers, especially just before departing on a liveaboard trip. Ajay

I shot this sequence in pretty poor visibility today: https://www.instagram.com/p/DZ0UlX9HUZA/?igsh=MWo1bXE2cXkzY3B4 The shorter FL is a really benefit in lower visibility and seems to be more versatile than the 90mm Sony. I'm now looking for a port that matches it better. Which I think would be the N120 Port 41 plus the N100-N120 adapter (which I have).

Hi, @Architeuthis - I saw the 60 total, but only have 50, so I gave it a try. Even at the full wide end of 8mm, there is zero vignetting with the 140 dome with the shade attached. IQ looks good as well. The results will be from a dive. Thanks, @Sokrates for the gear producer’s name. I’ll reach out to see what he has. I’ll also try the 30 extension to compare as well. I did super basic tests with both the 8-15 + 2x and the WACP to compare. Seems the 8-15 more or less matches the 130 FoV at ~10mm, followed by some similarities. The WACP with the 28-60 obviously has more reach with the 8-15 being a full 180 FoV. In short, the 8-15 with both a 1.4x and now 2x gives wide flexibility, especially once a zoom gear is found. The 28-60 remains strong for medium wide to tight with near macro level close focus. Between them, it should make for a very fulsome solution!

Is that a printed ring holding the dome on an extension ring? Subal maybe? I considered that but decided to just print the whole port a single part. If there is ever a need to use to curved port in a more diverse set of configurations I could make a 20mm ring holding the dome. I reprinted overnight and am getting ready to test this out.

I also have the Olympus 60 mm macro lens, and it has become my favorite lens underwater.

I’m sure you’ve seen the many “how to” threads, but just in case, these two are good: Advice on a Carry-on What do you carry . . . In that second thread I posted a photo of my Lowepro Pro Trekker backpack/roller, which I find to be almost perfect for my m4/3 system. However it’s about 14 kg fully loaded, and even worn on my back It looks heavy and gets weighed. I currently start most trips on an ATR-42 with a strict 7 kg limit, so use an inconspicuous commuter style backpack with a camera insert that doesn’t attract attention, and put the more durable stuff in my checked bag.

Zoom gear designer mentioned here Also its suggested that 30mm is enough extension same thread few replies in

Hi Chip, Are you sure the right extension for Canon+2xTC is 50mm? I use it with 60mm extension (35mm&25mm) and Dreifish even suggested more, based on his testing (but I get occasional vignetting by sensor stabilization when I take his suggestion)... In my files I see that for Canon+1.4x Kenko an extension of 50mm is required - your zoomgear should just fit in case you use the 50mm extension (maybe you have to remove the gear teeth wheel from the 35.5mm extension before it fits?). I do not use a separate zoomgear, but use an extension collar for my regular Nauticam zoomgear (placed in the DIY section for 3D print). I remember faintly that someone (Gudge?) fabricated an entire zoomgear and placed it also there... Wolfgang

Hi, all, I just picked up a Sony 2x TC to pair with my Canon 8-15. Does anyone have 3D plans or a suggestion for a zoom gear? Here is the exact housing setup: Nauticam housing Sony a1 Nauticam N100 to N120 35.5 Nauticam N120 30mm + 20mm Extensions Nauticam 140 dome Lens assembly order: Body > Sony 2x TC > Metabones > Canon 8-15 The gear teeth would need to line up with the zoom knob on the N100 to N120 adapter. I have the zoom gear for the 1.4x TC, but the Sony is a completely different size and in an entirely different position in the assembly. Thanks! chip