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Just on the question of sRGB vs Adobe RGB, if you were ordering a photobook (eg. from Mixbook), would you (re)process the selected photos as sRGB, given that Mixbook recommends sRGB? Or would you leave them as Adobe RGB? And I'd appreciate any recommendations on photobooks anyone cares to make... Thanks

I'd like to be able to have the option of TTL but it's not a deal breaker for me, but shooting in manual without a trigger is important to me. I don't have a ton of space inside with my housing with a third party vacuum pump, and it would be an additional cost to add to the strobes. I think my decision will be pretty clear then, thanks for the great help.

Thanks all. Appreciate the input. How are Eizo monitors for video editing?

Hi everyone! Has anyone used these flashes? Are they good to start with? I'm planning on getting two for WA & macro. There are not much information about it on the internet. One day diving I met a guy who used one SF-01 strobe for his TG-7, but we didn't have enough time to talk to find out more about the strobe. Is it worth it's money? I'm afraid this is the only readily available option for me. Another option is Sea&Sea YS-D3 DUO. Does Sea&Sea TTL work from the box with 5-pin connector? I like that SF-01 uses 18650 batteries, but on the surface I found it better to use TTL in most cases, and I think it would be better underwater too. What are your thoughts?

Thx! It seems than to be an alternative to the nauticam fcp?! If my calculations are right the setup 8-15 plus 2 tc should be zoomed all the way to 15mm be a 50mm equivalent lens?!

In a few days I am leaving for a three-week trip to Raja Ampat. Nine days at Misool Eco resort, then 9 more days on the Emperor Harmoni liveaboard. I've only been shooting the Maxi's in darker cold water with limited visibility. Using them in bright clear conditions should add some additional perspective and the high dive count will be a good measure of their reliability and battery capacity. I'm doing my packing for a trip today and considering what to bring along. My current planned camera loadout is looking like this: Nauticam Z8 system 2 Retra Maxi Strobes 1 Backscatter Atom Strobe with adapted OS-1 snoot 1 Backscatter MF-2 as an additional backup strobe Nikon Z105mm macro lens w/MFO-1 Nikon Z24-50mm w/WWL-C Nikon AF-S 8-15mm w/140mm dome Macro setup with the Atom + Snoot for primary, Maxi with macro rings for secondary Wide angle setup with the two Maxi's, optional reduction rings & filters I've shot the HF-1s lots of times in these conditions, so I won't bring them on the trip.

Came here to ask the same question. Currently shooting with Panasonic GH7 and Inon Z240/Keldan 4 series, and I'm really interested in simplifying with a hybrid strobe. The options are the HF-1 or the Maxi, and I'm leaning towards the maxi but I'd love to hear some TTL experience since that's how I generally shoot.

Hola,el 12mm sea sea y el 15mm nikonos no enfocan fuera del agua,pero si cierras mucho el diafragma puedes conseguir un ligero enfoque justo a pocos cm de la lente,en el agua prueba a usar diafragmas cerrados f8,f11 o más,distancia 1m si aún así no enfoca,tendrás que modificar levemente la zapata de la cámara para que avance mas o menos 0,5mm e ir probando...en el agua,obviamente... a mi me costó hacer muchas pruebas con errores hasta conseguir un buen enfoque,especialmente con el 12mm es más fácil enfocar...

Btw: has anyone used the Retra in TTL mode with Canon mirrorless yet?

A fellow Swede go tomorrow. Trick he say is, if you go from far away, fly to Mexico City and then domestic to CSL. I’m boycotting until this is dealt with in a trustworthy way. There are so many other places.

Super clips there! I watched the first third, and look forward to watching the rest. Nicely color balanced, framed, focused and captured. I thought there was a mismatch with the tempo of the music and images in the beginning. I’ll weigh in more later. Thanks for posting that.

Interesting that both are nominally 4500K. In your side by side photo the Retra looks clearly cooler (but maybe the Kelvin designation refers to the output at the end and the spectrum of the Retra strobe is different to the HF-1)...

Yes, Inon, YS strobes can be set for preflash or no preflash for manual strobe operation. As well, both can run a standard slave mode TTL. TTL requires a preflash in order to function. Sony cameras, those we are discussing, cannot cancel preflash (like Canon, Oly, Nikon can) and thus you must have one of these things to run manual strobes: A strobe like YS, Inon, Backscatter that has a preflash, no preflash selector mode for manual operation A trigger board that can ignore the preflash and properly sync (UWT) Something other than a darn Sony that can be set to not have a preflash Most if not nearly all with a few exceptions run manual strobes using TTL for special or niche uses. I claim no expertize as a photographer and I find TTL occasionally useful but hardly a Godsend. In fact, it can be rather annoying as it tends to give a very generic result and I spend more time trying to adjust the TTL bias to get the result I see in my head than if I were to just run in manual (and probably still not get what I think I want).

D3's will work properly in TTL or manual mode with the pop up flash. No trigger required. No training or setup required.

Thanks so much everyone for your SUPER helpful comments! How wonderful! I have one more question: do you ever find that the bright red colour of the housing reflects back into the shots? I remember photographing frogs in my pond a few years ago, and I was wearing a bright blue kayaking drysuit, which reflected in the shiny eyes of the frogs ...

For Sale: Marelux 180mm Optical Glass Fisheye Port I am selling a spare Marelux 180mm optical glass dome port. This is a surplus unit as I have two identical ports. Condition: Glass: 100% pristine and scratch-free. Shade: The plastic shade has a GoPro mount attached to the top edge and some minor cosmetic scratches from use, but the glass element is perfect. Compatibility: Fits all Marelux housings. This is an excellent travel-friendly alternative to the larger 230mm domes. Retail Price: ~£1,370 Asking Price: £925 (plus shipping) Located in the UK. Happy to ship internationally at buyer's expense. Payment via bank transfer or PayPal (buyer covers fees). Please DM if interested or for more photos of the glass.

Mmm, thanks for the remark. Indeed, I've been more focused on whether TTL is possible with a particular combo, but always thinking that in the end, there's always Manual. But, what you're saying is, not even that... Would the Sea&Sea YS-D3 be able to "cancel the pre-flash" ? Does this mean is won't take the pre-flash into account ? As in, some sort of "training" or setup, has to be done prior to shooting ? I'll look better into the AOI flash that comes already with the housing... but I guess it would do just what the camera tells is to do ?

They should be about the same. The strobes are very close in color temperature and the filters both target 4500k.

I made a pair of adapters for Retra and HF-1 that allow the use of accessories from the other brand. I have warming filters more mounted in the photos, but you could put an LSD on the HF-1, Backscatters Floro filter on the Retra, etc. Mix and match accessories.

Hooray! Good to hear it. Those fronds, the light. So dreamy!

LOL, one last thing, to repeat, the Sony cameras we are discussing cannot cancel preflash for manual strobe operation. You either have to use a trigger board like the UWT or perhaps the AOI built in (?) or you have to have a strobe that can cancel preflash like the Inon, YS, Backscatter etc. for manual strobe support.

Yes, expensive indeed! But, I'm comparing "within" the hobby world: 800-1000 euros for a flash is a little crazy in the non-UW photo world (not talking about pro usage), but then a 500 euros trigger (not even a flash...) seems bonkers. I know, I know, this is what it is, and we have to live with it. The A7C II would not be meant just for UW. It's for use both UW and outside of it. If, most things considered, the A7C II is comparable to the A6400 underwater (with all their limitations, including 1/160th sync speed for both), I would favour the A7C II as I will also use it extensively topside (likely even more than UW). On another hand, if the A7C II becomes a PITA :) for UW, then I'm not so sure it's a good idea the compromise. One big issue is, as we discuss, the lack of built-in flash. And you're right about the AOI housing, it comes already with a tiny flash trigger. It's probably the best way to go, if I end up getting a A7C II.

To be clear, the Marelux Apollo, unlike Inon and YS and Backscatter, does not have a preflash cancel selection. You can run them in manual (and sTTL) with a Sony camera with a trigger board. Without a trigger board and using a pop up flash the Apollo S strobes trigger on the preflash. And Backscatter is the opposite, there is no slave TTL mode or any TTL capability without their special trigger! They require a proprietary trigger board $$$$$. But they do have preflash cancel so manual operation is a cinch! using my UWT trigger or the pop up flash. Just no slave TTL without a trigger board. Which if I may say, sucks.

Ah this is good to know. The way their site is written, it seems like TTL requires a trigger. Shame about manual mode not working properly though. Would make them a no-go for me.