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Hi all, I have in my possession a TG-7, PT-059 housing, seafrogs tray/handles and some cheap-ish arms/clamps. On the firm advice of members of my local dive club I have two video lights on their way from China (LetonPower L15) and this will at least get me started. Most of the divers in my club who shoot lean towards what I’d call generic point and shoot, or macro whereas my natural interest leans more towards wide-angle stuff but I don’t know how realistic a goal it is to be aspiring to capture close focus wide angle shots in UK waters and typically those in the North England & Scotland. The reading I’ve done so far (I think) seems to suggest that cfwa is appropriate in poor vis so should be something I can work on but I’d like to check I’m on the right track. I guess my questions are: 1) Am I going to be able to scratch my wide angle itch in my local diving environment (weather permitting) 2) is my setup going to work, at least for now? Long term I’d look at getting either a 120 degree wa lens or the weefine fisheye (I love fisheye) 3) can I get away without strobes for now? again long term I’ll get some, probably backscatter atoms Thanks, Jon

There were some posts on wetpixel a while back, haven't managed to find them , but as I recall they are all correctly called perfluro ether greases and are reported to be universally compatible with all o-rings. I believe that Tribolube and Christolube include some PTFE in the formulation and I found while searching some reference to Christolube eventually leaving some white deposits while Tribolube did not. I never saw any trace in Nauticam lube, it's quite a thin formulation. I also happened across the pricing on some sites which was around 140 $AUD for a 2g tube or about 1/3 the price of gold!🤣

Hi Hoekma! A warm welcome to Waterpixels. Great to have you with us. Good luck with switch. And your bank balance…. 😝

Very cool Dave! That’s how I clean my suckers, too.

No, not feet or meters....just jumping into my next "new to me" rig. Going Sony A7RV from an OM-1 to get deeper into video. God help me and my personal finances 😄 .

Nauticam grease is the same of Tribolube/Cristolube. Get a good size tube and it will last for years. I load it up into 3ml needle-less syringes for home, and squirt it back into the little Nauticam tubes for travel use on the road. The Nauticam flip adapters are aluminum and can be removed by hand. The only tool I ever need is a microfiber towel to get a better grip. Like you I often dive two to three days a week. If possible a quick rinse of the rig at the dive site. (Rinse tank dip, bucket of water, shower, etc) I rinse and soak the housing in the sink after a day of diving. (Maybe an hour, maybe overnight) I pull the optical fiber plugs to remove any salt from those ports. Remove from sink, blow everything dry with a strong handheld blower, especially glass Take off the back to get the memory card and camera battery Wipe off the back o-ring ( never lube, rarely remove but rinse under faucet if visibly gritty) Remove and recharge strobe / spotting light batteries Very lightly lube o-rings of the same. (Almost never remove these) Reload all batteries. Port stays installed until I want to change lenses, then wipe o-ring and surfaces. Rarely lube. Close up camera and pull a vacuum before the next dive. Everything else with arms, clamps, removing o-rings, taking things apart I do only rarely or if the whole rig had a really rough week.

Thanks all. To be clear, I'm looking for ways to streamline the workload because I dive with the camera every second day, while still keeping everything healthy. Leaving the port on works, as does not lubricating the main O-ring after each diving day, which will save time compared to what I do with the clamshell. Removing the flip is a constraint, unless Nauticam's design is easier than AOI's (the AOI requires a special plastic tool to screw in the centre piece). I guess I'll have to find a balance, like removing it once a week or so. I'm familiar with ultrasonic cleaners as I used them for regulator servicing when I worked in diving. They're great, but at the moment I've been doing fine with what I have on hand for manual cleaning. I'll consider getting one in the long term. I'm curious. I know this has been discussed before, but I couldn't find a definitive answer. Is Nauticam's lubricant for grey silicone O-rings a PFPE/PTFE grease like Tribolube or Christolube?

Have fun! Summer vis can be variable. I hope it's fantastic! Be sure to order nitrox for you and your buddy! During my visit we had 50-100ft vis but only below 55 feet. 25-55 was close to zero. So all the diving was deep and my buddy was on air. I was on CCR. Let's just say my buddy ended up in deco on every dive with close to zero reserves!

Great shots and video. I'll be heading to Rendezvous Dive Adventures in a couple of weeks. Your photos and video have me pumped up for the trip. Nice work!

Looks like you had some nice viz and I really like the Mola Mola. Well done!

A dreamlike setting... Very nice video. Thanks for sharing

Very nice, thanks for sharing

I use a couple of different blowers as part of my routine. Milwaukee compact leaf blower immediately after removing housing from the rinse tank. Blow off excess water on housing and dome/port. M18™ Compact Blower (Bare Tool) | Milwaukee ToolMILWAUKEE® M18™ Compact Blower delivers the fastest jobsite cleanup. Offers a best in class power to size ratio and comes with a universal inflator/deflatorWolfbox MF200 to blow off o-ring moisture on lights, strobes, housing, ports. https://wolfbox.com/products/compressed-air-duster-mf200?

One easy upgrade to your gear maintenance is the purchase of an inexpensive Ultrasonic cleaner. There are good options in the 50-100:USD range. Great for cleaning clamps, flip adapters, crusty hose ends, regulator din screws, tank valves, etc. And they are great for cleaning jewelry, dental bite guards, and many other household items. I have been using this one for years: 2 liter https://a.co/d/01ACxkki

humu9679, you're welcome

Anything threaded gets attention daily. Ports stay on until changed. Main oring gets inspected and cleaned perhaps monthly unless looking sandy.

You might look at the wireless protocol used by Halcyon for their new CCR controllers. They seem to have both range and bandwidth. Likely proprietary and expensive however.

saga makes them in spain

I’m an old Olympus user.. now I’ve my old em1mk2.. i think it’s similar… i didn’t remember the menu voices but i always used a setting that boost the LCD screen… without any simulation… 😅😉

I’ve both, Nauticam lcd magnifier and Nauticam 45degree viewfinder… what I see trough the lcd magnifier is 2 times better than what I see trough the 45 degree viewfinder.. image is a lot bigger…. The only drawback of the lcd magnifier is that it’s almost straight and my neck didn’t like it anymore… but with that it’s a lot easier shooting macro also with cmc1… 😅😅😅

Thanks. I'll ease up on the housing o-ring. On the flip, yes, this seems to be important. I just checked and, as I feared, the AOI double flip has now fused to the LX10 M67 port... The AOI tightening/removal tool is a plastic ring with lugs that engage with indentations on the flip. There's no way it's going to budge now, and forcing it will just break the tool. Lesson learned: remove flips regularly... I'll definitely make sure to do that with the Nauticam triple flip, which is definitely not cheap.

Hei @atus any news on your Med BW?