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Is that a printed ring holding the dome on an extension ring? Subal maybe? I considered that but decided to just print the whole port a single part. If there is ever a need to use to curved port in a more diverse set of configurations I could make a 20mm ring holding the dome. I reprinted overnight and am getting ready to test this out.

I also have the Olympus 60 mm macro lens, and it has become my favorite lens underwater.

I’m sure you’ve seen the many “how to” threads, but just in case, these two are good: Advice on a Carry-on What do you carry . . . In that second thread I posted a photo of my Lowepro Pro Trekker backpack/roller, which I find to be almost perfect for my m4/3 system. However it’s about 14 kg fully loaded, and even worn on my back It looks heavy and gets weighed. I currently start most trips on an ATR-42 with a strict 7 kg limit, so use an inconspicuous commuter style backpack with a camera insert that doesn’t attract attention, and put the more durable stuff in my checked bag.

Zoom gear designer mentioned here Also its suggested that 30mm is enough extension same thread few replies in

Hi Chip, Are you sure the right extension for Canon+2xTC is 50mm? I use it with 60mm extension (35mm&25mm) and Dreifish even suggested more, based on his testing (but I get occasional vignetting by sensor stabilization when I take his suggestion)... In my files I see that for Canon+1.4x Kenko an extension of 50mm is required - your zoomgear should just fit in case you use the 50mm extension (maybe you have to remove the gear teeth wheel from the 35.5mm extension before it fits?). I do not use a separate zoomgear, but use an extension collar for my regular Nauticam zoomgear (placed in the DIY section for 3D print). I remember faintly that someone (Gudge?) fabricated an entire zoomgear and placed it also there... Wolfgang

Hi, all, I just picked up a Sony 2x TC to pair with my Canon 8-15. Does anyone have 3D plans or a suggestion for a zoom gear? Here is the exact housing setup: Nauticam housing Sony a1 Nauticam N100 to N120 35.5 Nauticam N120 30mm + 20mm Extensions Nauticam 140 dome Lens assembly order: Body > Sony 2x TC > Metabones > Canon 8-15 The gear teeth would need to line up with the zoom knob on the N100 to N120 adapter. I have the zoom gear for the 1.4x TC, but the Sony is a completely different size and in an entirely different position in the assembly. Thanks! chip

Simple question. Is it possible to install the Nauticam bayonet system to an AOI housing 67mm threaded port?

Changed the link, I don't know from where I pasted it 😂 But on your response, is still the mistake 🤌

Are you sure? 🤣

Another update for the mission one adapter for inon lens Video

Totally agree - it's really difficult to switch from macro mode to wide and vice-versa. You're not focusing on the same subjects, looking at things the same way, or even in the same place in the water column... There is one thing where compacts are pretty cool though - with the wide lens you can get zoom in fully and get shots that are slightly CFWA - the MFD is very small with the wide lens (to the dome glass, basically), so I also do macro with it as well, alternative with a weak diopter or none. It's nice. It's too bad the L10 housing port situation makes this more difficult.

The Canon EF-S 60mm Macro is a very affordable and pretty much underestimated macro lens. The above, written by Chris is true for Canon Mirrorless full frame bodies, as the Canon MILC will auto-switch to 1.6x Crop mode. There is a work-around for this, by setting your desired aperture first and then slightly unrotating the lens from the bayonet. This will trick your Canon to consider it as a manual focussing third party lens. Surprisingly it will only exhibit very little vignetting on a full frame sensor. But you have to live with using it as a fully manual focus + fixed aperture lens throwing the very fast and silent AF of this lens over-board. Sony, MFT and Nikon users can adapt this lens with full AF features and will have it working as a full frame lens with slight vignetting in some focus positions. Ahh,.. and if you intend to use it for video the 16:9 aspect crop will also help to get rid of the dark corners on a full frame body.

Classic cold shoe adapter. You could eventually use a cold shoe to 1" ball and then using a clamp for a better adjustable rig. P.S. IMHO IMHO IMHO In the future I would buy a proper port for wide angle. The whole idea to film macro medium wide in one dive is a BS...

Has your opinion changed after doing this review? I’m about to pick up my new underwater housing setup for my Sony A7R VI and already own the 16–35mm f/2.8 GM II, so I could use that behind a dome port. However, I’ve been leaning more toward the WACP-C with the kit lens. A dome is quite a hassle to travel with, but if the image quality is noticeably better behind a dome, as you suggest in your review, I may reconsider.

I came from MFT (Oly EM5II/EM1II) and changed to FF (Sony A7R5). Indeed the size difference is the greatest when it comes to macro setups. The Nauticam/A7R5/Sony 100mm macro/MFO-3 (on flip adapter) setup is now the biggest ever, while MFT macro was smart and tiny...😄 Paradoxically not so much difference when WA is concerned (WACP-C; Canon 8-15mm fisheye; Tokina 17-28mm behind Zen DP170 - compared to MFT with similar optics)... => I wish you great dives and fun with your new setup. I am eager to hear about your experiences... Wolfgang

It is the combo, so i cannot say which element caused the flare... As said the flare occurs very seldom and is not a real problem...

Wow, what a statement and test series.

Update! No, the Monster will not live, because the wide lens cannot work with the rectangular port, it needs a short port. So I had to decide between using all the zoom and the CMC-1, or having less zoom and the ability to swap between wide and macro wet lenses. I decided to keep the standard port for the L10 package, the rectangular one, and to keep using the GoPro + inon wide lens. So, I will shoot macro and normal fov with the L10, and wide with the GoPro ( and spending less than buying a Nauticam wide lens 😬) Now, do you have suggestions on how to mount the GoPro on top of the Nauticam case? I have ordered everything and next week I should have it, but I am already the thinking how to assemble everything 😬

The point made about the camera lens possibly being more flare prone in some, could be? Could explain such varied experiences with the same optics. The photo with the beautiful gar fish, very shallow, very bright sun. Challenging conditions for sure. For laughs, Canon A570 P&S, Ikelite case, Inon WAL with glass dome, shot right into the sun with some cool lens reflections that look like planets. Photo sucks, lol, what do you expect for a 5MP antique! Darn thing had manual aperture, iso and shutter! Shallow and bright, a little flare in the lower right corner. Surely the WACP could do as well!

The Canon 8-15 adapts extremely well to MFT. Honestly I sometimes question why I didn't hold onto my Olympus and adapt that lens rather than going Sony FF.

Here ya go Dave: MF-2 and 3 Quick Disconnect Connector - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

I'll have to get one of those to save my fingers! And yeah, I took a few attempts on the tolerances and mine is still not perfect either, it will push out from the inside but I've been diving it for several years..

It only took a couple of minutes to insert the o-ring. I made about six test prints to fine tune the fit. Too loose, still loose, too tight, just right. I made it snug enough that it was not impossible to place the o-ring. We will see how well it works in the water soon. I built in a provision for a locking ring outside the glass to secure it a bit out of the water. Now the original Zen dome I could not push out the glass by hand. I had to pluck out the o-ring with a steel pick. My dome i can push out by hand, so it is not as tight but hopefully good enough.

Of course I'm biased.... ha. How much does your o-ring tool help pressing that? Still a pita?