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Up for me as well, there was someone still posting until yesterday...

Still up for me at the moment...

I fully get that the big attraction of muck diving is to find tiny weird creatures but I'm consistently drawn to gobies, mainly because I think their environment adds an extra dimension to photos

This could be a good alternative to Canon 8-15 to have a FE mount native lens. To be followed... link to SonyAlphaRumors article

What a fantastic name! This is from PNG in 2006;

Popular ScienceReal-life Snuffleupagus found swimming in the Great Barri...The resemblance is uncanny.

Thanks! Somehow, between searching and posting, I had missed this model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2733718-nauticam-focus-gear-for-nikon-z-105mm-macro-lens, although I don't currently have a great way to test it out.

Just clicked a link to wetpixel and got a server is down message. Also checked on downforeveryoneorjustme which confirmed it is down. It was up just a couple of days ago. Is this finally the end of an era?

Alternatively leave it on for a day or two and then turn off without releasing vacuum it should continue to hold.unless you do something like drop the housing or otherwise subject it to load. I think the vaccum valve from leak sentinel is designed to allow you turn it off.

It's almost guaranteed to be metric unless it is made in USA or possibly in Canada. You could pickup some colourful anodised clamps on the likes of Temu or Ebay for about the same price and just use the handle perhaps - the clamps themselves may not be great, more than likely same thread but no guarantee and the anodizing may not be great either so potentially disposable items. My Nauticam clamps are m6 x 1.0 FYI.

I would like to pimp my system with colored T-knobs for my clamps: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1595469-REG/ultralight_ac_tk_sr_splashy_red_t_knob_for.html However, I am not sure if they would fit on my clamps from H2OTools: unterwasser-fotografieren.deH2o-Tools Kugel-Klammer Schwarz - unterwasser-fotografier...BlitzarmAny idea if they would fit? I am not sure if the H2O-Tools are maybe metric (ultralight are us/inch) or have another thread pitch)? Thanks for your help, Jens

He would have to release vacuum and then turn the switch off. Upon rearming the circuit with the "switch" of some sort he envisages then restore the vacuum. But he would not have to open the housing. I just open my housing in the evening, give everything a once over and then close it back for the next day and pull vac about 30 minutes before departure or when convenient. But, I recharge between dives or at lunch as needed without having to open the housing on the boat or a sandy beach or some other undesirable place.

I have not seen one, but i have the lens and can knock out a gear for it tomorrow. I will post a link once i get the model uploaded. For Nauticam.

I have the same trigger and it last for a long time. I use manual and not sure on the power setting (fairly low i guess), but i did like one week in a resort (3 dives per day) and the led flashed still over 75%. Using TTL or max power probably uses more. My new one uses also way more battery compared to previous (NA-A1ii vs. NA-A7RV). But i dont think magnetic switch for power works, i think the circuit needs to sense vacuum forming, instead of just turning on with vacuum already there. I might be wrong of course.

Ok, so this is a platform where we sought CC - constructive criticism :-) right? So please dont hate me :-): OMG THIS IS TERRIBLE DESIGN!! The drag on that thing must be insane! Plus I cant imagine doing angle shots with the buoyancy distribution like this either. So that was the ugly part and now the constructive part :-) A good balanced rig which does not fight should have all major mass elements neutrally buoyuant in all directions if possible. The camera, the monitor, the lights. The Lights - Keldan sells - and it may be possible to make your own - buoyancy collars. I did this for my wife's phone rig but the designs are numerous. Then the camera - and the monitor as these kinds - unlike these in (nauticam) housings which are neutral (or even positive) - they are negative 300-750g - so we need to compensate them as a whole. And so what is the purpose of these rails anyway? To achieve posterior balance during capture to limit up and down wobble which these short body long nose rigs are prone to. To achieve this we dont need to add weights. We need to add neutrally buoyant MASS. It is the velocity of the mass which will make rig stable in that direction. Side to side wobble we manage with handles but up/down? Yes that's what adding mass along longitudal axis will do. The housing with the dome port should be front light - less with glass or more with acrylic. So what is the best way to counter this without adding extra weight? Place your monitor on the port behind the handles axis yes? If you still need balance weight after this which I suppose you do depending on the monitor weight and really want the rails then I recommend to focus on my bracket above and the rail - it is carbon fiber 15mm from the video rigs and they also do aluminium. These weighs next to nothing in the water so if you 3D print (or just use a strong plastic plate) a base plate underneath the camera and attach the rails to that plate underneath your cameta you get the suport structure to which ends you can further add floats or weights as needed and achieve desired longitudinal stability. All that with minimum amount of added weight so you dont have to compensate it with these insane floaties. What could also help to make the body/monitor combo neutral would be a buoyancy plate attached to the monitor as some monitors are very heavy. This one above is weefine which is like -300g but some of them ale like -750g which would be better to address with plate. Because without it the monitor weight up top will fight at angles. I have seen monitors mounted in the back - like Nauticam mount they sell - but I find this problematic as it obscure access to buttons so when changing frame rates of CWB or anything its just not the best. Yet another food for thought is that by using a monopod or handle attached to lens port collar you will get desired stability as the up/down wobble is mainly caused by location of housing handles at the lateral axis of housing and so by spreading the two control points - your hands - longitudinally will eliminate this problem - provided you dont need to operate zoom ring during the shot. Good luck in solving the never ending (for me anyway) buoyancy puzzle :-)

Does anyone know of a good model for a Nauticam focus gear to fit the Nikon 105 Z macro lens?

I don't have any pictures with me, but I use DIY Dyneema soft shackles attached to the top clamps. Strong enough they will never break, won't corrode or damage anything and you can cut them if needed. Extremely cheap as well. I have a boltsnap attached to one side and an empty one on the other.

I'm likely getting the Kraken M16 so I can just leave my housing under vacuum for most of a trip. As I've found recently though the Nauticam leak sensor will rip through a set of batteries in a few days if left on. I am thinking perhaps of a magnetic reed switch to allow it to be turned on and off without opening the housing?

We put this up yesterday. Neither of us have tried the camera - but we were online when the Sony announcement video came out - and were going to discuss it between ourselves - so recorded an episode about it.

Ha! I went on a Amboseli Kenya Safari in the dry season and let me tell you it was DUSTY! I needed to clean off everything every night, and don't even think about changing a lens in the field.

That did it. Sent you a test message.

On a lighter note, This guy doesn't need a rinse tank 🤣 https://www.instagram.com/reel/DXEJuNWDhaL/?igsh=MXVvc2oyY2ZmandjMg==

It should be ok now

Hi Dave, let me check Ciao

Like with the release of the A1 II Sony is putting four years between the high end cameras so A1 users who passed on the A1 II will not be seeing an A1 III until their cameras are quite dated. That is not necessarily a bad thing many folks are still using DSLR's like D850 and EOS 5D. Having used Sony A1 and Sony A1 II extensively I can assure you that the II is an upgrade over the I for U/W users, the question is will that difference be enough to make you want to switch. Sony A7R V users will be in the same spot of deciding if the extra AF and shutter speeds along with a verity of other improvements outweighs the cost of a new body, housing and spare batteries. Sony is the top contender in the U/W space with four great contenders the A1 I/II, A7R V/VI, A7C II/R and the often overlooked A7 V an excellent camera at 33MP.