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For not much more than servicing your existing housing you could probably get into a used mirrorless set-up, especially something M4/3. That would offer some of the versatility of the TG7 and stay fairly compact. You can also adapt Canon lenses fairly well. The used market cuts both ways in terms of value and so an older crop DSLR probably won't net you a ton, especially if it's overdue for a service.

The adapter just arrived today and I can confirm it works perfectly with the AOI flip holder and the CMC-1 - the flip's locking mecanism doesn't get in the way like it does with the large adapter, and I can now remove the o-ring I was using as a spacer. This adapter was designed for the SMC-1, but I think most Nauticam wet diopters share the same design (Nauticam only lists the SMC-1, but Backscatter lists a bunch of compatible Nauticam diopters on the website, MFO, CMC, SMC, etc)

I'm really hoping for some insight to if there is a market to sell the 7dmkii camera/housing or if that's just not something potentially on the table. Then it becomes is it worth it to bother with a grand or so for service or just wait it out til I buy something new. I'm happy with the baby set up until I'm not (backgrounds are so mushy/ugly if you don't make it stop down as much as it can) and battery life for video is dismal...so I do like to have a Big Rig option, too!

Yes, we did, but I had some additional info and a link to a much less expensive scratch brush than Backscatter is selling, so I thought that merited a direct response.

Yes I was unable to get a decent estimate of EP position for the Sony 90. I had 48mm from flange mount at infinity, and less than 20mm at 0.5m, where it became difficult to see and appeared to recede into the camera at closest focus. I used EP estimate of 28mm for my dive test rig, which gave no keepers with lots of mis-focusing and soft images. I recommend a flat port with this one.

Didn't we have a long thread about this with some parties claiming they go years without cleaning and its a manufacturing defect at fault? Despite the wide spread existence of gold contact cleaning products?

Hi, I realize this was posted quite awhile ago, but is this port still available?

Hi Jordan! A warm welcome to Waterpixels. Great to have you with us. I’m using the same system as you: Subal and a D500 since 2017. It’s a brilliant combination. You won’t be disappointed with it underwater.

For travel, I have a fiberglass scratch pen https://www.amazon.com/TAURISH-Fiberglass-Electronic-Applications-Corrosion/dp/B0DT9P7C62/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2V0ITNPSAKKGQ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.iQBCYi28DSmpLll6MvLJFJKIJ6ZCCW_ZiI-0WBcvdVj9F68Cv_CDYmKPUaPg7nTs6TEp5oQqQ-ij72dMbUV6-ML96Met5HW1jH9Eqlg8yV0apjNrmnNMt3iEVkM1y3US49AdqT9YuQkg1N0qslVNv4SVQxiA6ljDEwSDJX48xlVTy3CxqZA_kDIfwuVAMq2T_mPKLK0lon0hVmo4D60CzPvCahNgLA-_1bm-FHkwLTU.l035Urp2_-K0k6uiyXU0mtBZkI873uouugTlQRRclCU&dib_tag=se&keywords=scratch+brush&qid=1770322388&sprefix=scratch+brush%2Caps%2C257&sr=8-4 and some 6" bamboo cotton swabs (like long Q tips) and small bottle of 99% isopropyl alcohol. They fit in a baggy and weigh very little, and I have started doing a quick alcohol wipe of contacts when changing batteries or if on a small boat, later when back in room or whatever. Maybe overkill to clean that often, but it only takes a minute. Scratch pen would get used for a problem instead of precautionary. If the compartment had leaked water or a battery leaked, cola or water and baking soda would probably be needed. Only recently did I learn that especially with lithium ion batteries we now use, frequent cleaning of contacts is prudent https://www.sealife-cameras.com/troubleshooting-and-product-updates/sea-dragon-lights-updates/ https://thebw-100.com/the-importance-of-cleaning-electrical-contacts-to-prevent-corrosion/

Hello all, I am Jordan and I live in the state of Arizona in the USA. I started scuba diving in 2008 and began shooting photos underwater at around the same time (with a cheap underwater point-and-shoot). I've been hooked on scuba and photography ever since. I've got just over 200 dives and am certified as a PADI Open Water Instructor, although I haven't taught in quite awhile. I've been out of diving and underwater photography for a couple of years, due mostly to recovering from a forced retirement (layoff). Currently, my rig is a Nikon D500 in a Subal ND500 housing with Sea&Sea YS-D2J strobes. I've not yet taken this particular set up under water but I am getting active again, anxious to get back blowing bubbles, and am looking forward to new adventures!

awesome report and pics! definitely on our list!

Thank you so much!

I made my own reduction rings that accommodate a diy filter. Message me if you want more details.

Yes, you should. If you get an answer please let us know. I have shot MF-2 strobes with my Sony A6400 setting the UWT trigger board to 0 and using the learning function for the MF-2 strobes and of course with the strobes set to Manual. I wonder as well if he will in the future include Backscatter OM/Sony as a switch selection and as well if existing boards could be updated for that functionality.

If you follow my link above, you'll find the sentence: 'This lens is not compatible with Canon extenders.'

I better ask Pavel - maybe there was some progress in the meantime. But I would prefer a housing-inside-system anyway.

Yes, the Nikon flash protocol seems to be much easier for reverse engineering compared to Canon. As a Canon user that was quite confusing to me. Yes, that was the latest info I received from him as well. Version 3 is now being sold: Trt-Electronicse-TURTLE 3 SMART TTL trigger for Canon MILC systems.e-TURTLE 3 SMART TTL trigger for Canon MILC systems.

The i-Turtle 2 Smart+ works very well with the HF-1. I can switch between TTL and manual on the Nikon Z8 during the dive (of course, I also have to switch the HF-1 between TTL and manual). It is basically translating the excellent Nikon i-TTL into the Sony protocol. The HF-1 has to be set to Sony TTL. Unfortunately, it does not (yet) work with the MF-3 (only in manual mode, no TTL), despite this flash also using Sony TTL. Balazs from trt-electronics told me he is working on it. So, there is hope that the i-Turtle will work with both the HF-1 and MF-3. Wolfram

Thanks for the great images and review. I was wondering if you could elaborate on stacking reduction rings with the warming filter. Are both of these the standard ones from Retra and can you put them in series? I also dive in meh visibility water and so was wondering how to lower the color temp while also reducing backscatter. Thanks!

Super report, Dave, and outstanding photographs!

Like the 8-15mm, it is really just a 14mm prime with a party trick. The circular images are really fun, but I also noticed in some of the example images the ring of color cast/distortion (chromatic aberation?) at the edges which I was hoping to not be present in this new lens, is there. Plus 190 degrees may just not work on a housing. Yes - extending would be nice to add in zoom functionality. No IS, kinda a bummer. I am interested in its EVU/ VR utility application and if that would work underwater for landscape experiences. Looking forward to underwater tests, and while excited - it would need to bring some real improved gains to get rid of my 8-15mm to see if it is worthwhile.

There’s clearly enough space inside the lens—anyone want to try adapting an extender in exchange for some focusing capability? 🙂 Jokes aside, this view also pretty much confirms that adapting an extender isn’t realistically possible. At this point, I honestly don’t see much reason to choose this lens over the EF 8–15mm f/4L. The 8–15mm is sharp enough for me with sufficient field of view.

I am pretty sure the UWT trigger board will support Backscatter strobes for manual use only. That would be UWT switch position 0. The UWT board will not support the Backscatter strobes in TTL mode as they use some sort of proprietary coding, at least my UWT board will not.

Well, as we say in Spain "mi gozo en un pozo". For me, buying this lens only to produce circular images doesn't make any sense. I guess Canon is not going to do it, so to use in underwater photography we need a third party manufacturer to produce a multiplier. I also have noticed that this lens is quiet long, so at the day is the same size that the 8-15 with the RF adaptor ring.

Looking at the pupil of the Sony 90mm on that website it is nearly at the back - I’d have to have a gigantic dome to get this matched the the optical dome centre Think I’ll stick with the flat port!