All Activity

We talked about how often to service the housing and its price... But has any DIY hero ever tried to change the o-rings on a single button or a wheel? I remember seeing it done once on a Nauticam housing, and it didn't seem like rocket science to me. Provided you have the right spare parts and tools. It seems to me that once the micro circlip/e-clip is removed, the mechanism just slides out. I'm aware that different brands have different designs. Am I crazy?

There have been various posts talking about the pros and cons of the various combinations of lenses and Nauticam wet optics as well as comparing performance of rectilinear lenses behind various domes. Few points you might consider: The recommended dome for the Canon 8-15 in Nauticam is the 140mm dome. Fisheyes are much less sensitive to dome size compared to rectilinear lenses and smaller dome sizes help with getting closer to take CFWA shots. You can even use the 100mm Zen dome with the 8-15, though corner quality might take a small hit. There is an extensive set of tests of various Canon optics in this post: It tests the Canon 24-50 behind the WWL and doesn't have good things to say about it. The Nikon 24-50/WWL-C combination is generally rated quite well, however the Canon 24-50 kit lens seems to be significantly poorer in optical quality. Now this is with the WWL-C, however I recall other posts stating there is not much to pick between the WWL and WACP-C with other lenses. Bear in mind too that the 24-50 needs to zoom into 28mm to remove vignetting with the WWL-1 - the WWL-C is designed for 24mm lenses. Rectilinear lenses generally require big domes, though some of the newer lenses that focus much closer work well with the 180mm dome. They lack the barrel distortion which enlarges the subject in the centre making fisheye images pop. On the subject of teleconverters with the Canon 8-15 you mention the Sony 1.4x/2x with the Canon 8-15, these work because they place the Metabones adapter between the teleconverter and the 8-15. Optical quality is better than using the Kenko 1.4x. It needs this order of assembly as the nose of the 1.4x fits inside the the empty spacer of the Metabones adapter. In this case the metabones acts like a 22mm spacer. In theory you could use the a RF 1.4x- Canon RF-EF -Canon 8-15, but the RF-EF won't work with an RF 1.4x. In theory again a Canon RF-EF-Canon EF 1.4x- aftermarket EF 12mm or 20mm extension tube- Canon 8-15 might work, but you'd need to test it. In general I would say the Canon 8-15 is an exceptionally sharp lens and very hard to beat behind a dome as fisheyes naturally work well behind domes and is a great solution if you don't need extra reach. The last point is that comparing diagonal field of view is a little misleading - you normally don't place subjects on the diagonal and fisheye lenses have the most stretching of the field in the corners. The WACP/WWL is like a zoomed in fisheye lens in terms of barrel distortion present. The horizontal field of a 180° (nominal) diagonal fisheye is about 144° while a WWL with 130° diagonal field has about a 106° horizontal field. The 8-15 is reported to achieve 175° diagonal field. This table compares horizontal and diagonal fields: Horizontal Diagonal Rect Equiv 15mm fisheye 141 175 4.5 15mm x 1.4 97 118 16 WACP at 28mm 106 130 13.5 WACP at 80mm 44.7 54 42 The Rectilinear equivalent is the focal length of a rectilinear lens with the same horizontal field. You can compare the field you would get from a Canon 8-15 with 14mm FF equivalent rectilinear here, it's on m43 sensor so the comparison is the 8-15 at 8mm and the 7-14 at 7mm. This is equivalent to the 8-15 at 15mm and 14mm rectilinear on full frame.

I can easily design one. Do you have the lens? If so message me and I'll ask you for a couple of dimensions and send you a model to try. I like flushing out my collection so I can share these gears to the community.

Hi, has anyone designed a Nauticam Focus Gear for the Nikon Z 50mm MC Macro Lens?

DOF (in general) goes down as the square of the magnification (with several aproximations) so the CMC 2 will be a bunch better. But whether or not it is to your liking is a question. Bill

Welcome from another Victoria based diver!

Thank you, Everyone! Really appreciate the suggestions and information. At this stage, I've done all I can do with it so looks like I'll be needing to replace it. There's definitely something wrong in there 🙃 Also talked with Reef and they've explained how to use it without the vacuum until the new part arrives, so there are options.

Hello, as a user of a Canon R5 and a newcomer here in the forum (though I've been with wetpixel for many years), I'm currently switching from Seacam to Nauticam and my main question is about wide-angle - what else 😁. For many years I photographed with the Canon EF 8-15/4 (often in combination with a Kenko 1.4x TC) behind a superdome or the small fisheye macro port (CFWA). Now I would like to photograph with even better corner performance and more compact dimensions in the future, and therefore I was considering the Nauticam WACP-C. Unfortunately, I can't find any informative reviews and/or images online about the best(!) camera/lens combination for Canon FF mirrorless cameras. The RF 24-50 is recommended, but I'd like to know if, for example, the Canon RF 15-30 STM might offer better image quality (it only has 85° at the long end), or if an older adapted EF lens (e.g., the 28-80) would be advisable (it has 54° at the long end compared to the RF 24-50's 81°, so it would be much more versatile). Or would I ultimately achieve comparable image quality with my old 8-15/4 lens in combination with the Kenko 1.4x TC? I'd probably have to stop down significantly more to avoid corner softness, even behind a super dome. I also read here in the forum about the combination of the EF 8-15/4 with a 2x TC on a Sony, but I don't know if that works with Canon. I know that the WACP-1 has up to 1 stop better image quality than the WACP-C (probably only visible in the corners), but the WACP-1 is simply too heavy - and a little bit too expensive for me as well. Currently, I only own a Nauticam 8.5" Acrylic Dome Port (SKU # 18802) that came with the 2nd hand housing, which I could use with my Canon 8-15/4. However, I don't know if the image quality would be acceptable. And btw: is there a WA lens recommended to the 8.5" Acrylic Dome? Or does anyone have completely different considerations regarding excellent WA IQ? Btw: I own a RF 14-35/4 and still have the EF 8-15/4, of course. I'll definitely buy a Super Dome later at least for split or wreck shots... well, and I read here in the forum that a 140mm Nauticam dome is hardly recommended for the 8-15/4. I would be grateful for any helpful answers! Best regards, Wahrmut

Hey Wahrmut! Great to have you with his and welcome to your new home. Yep, lots of recovering former Wetpixelers here - as I'm sure you will see. Enjoy the forum! Best wishes

Thank you I didn't know this site...

French based UW online store , that would be difficult for you to order from Oz. (Wondering whether the owner is not part of this board btw) I guess you can find the same model from Asian located online stores. https://eocean.eu/en/accueil/116-686-focus-ring-for-12-50-olympus-and-nauticam-housing.html#/51-housing-nauticam_m14

We are currently using the Sony A6700 with Nauticam housing/wide angle lens. A couple Sola video lights gives us good quality for court purposes.

Hello, based in Germany, I'm a newcomer here - having previously been a member of wetpixel for many, many years (and uwpix - some of the German-speaking photographers might remember). I've been diving for over 30 years and doing underwater photography for more than 20 years. Currently I'm using Canon mirrorless cameras and dive in cooler water (German lakes, North Sea) and in the tropics as well. I've already read quite a bit in this forum, and if I'm authorized to do so, I'll soon post an urgent question about WA gear. Actually, I don't know how many posts I need to make before I can create my own and let myself be surprised. Best regards, Wahrmut

I’m a D500 user with the same lenses that Scubajess is selling. It’s a brilliant setup!

I have decided to sell my underwater camera set up. It has been a fabulous camera. It excels in macro photography and takes great wide angle photos. Nikon D500 in Sea & Sea Housing Kit. Asking 3,500. Kit includes: Nikon D500 Camera (with two chargers and 4 batteries) Sea and Sea Housing Tokina 10 - 17 lens Sea and Sea Zoom ring for Tokina lens Zen glass mini dome for Tokina lens Sea & Sea Acrylic 240 dome port (great for splits!) Nikon 60mm AF-S lens Port for 60mm lens Nikon 105mm AF-S lens Port for 105mm lens Sea & Sea Electronic sync cables Sea & Sea 180 degree viewfinder Sea and Sea 45 degree viewfind

Did you try to clean it? Inside there'a a mushroom valve and a spring. Maybe you have some debris or salt deposit on the membrane.

Agree with Davide: the CMC-2 is much easier to use. I tend to dive with that versus the CMC-1, which is taking up space in a drawer gathering dust. I also liked using the Inon 165, which are easily stacked if you want more magnification.

@Underwater with Art Aloha and welcome. Very cool background. Curious, what are you using for video at work?

Aloha and welcome @Davichin !

Hey all I saw that Sony released a firmware update not long ago. Has anyone tried it yet? Does it work ok after the update? Sagi

I recall you said that you had a steady red light which is the battery. If you lose the vacuum it's a blinking red light and it should go through yellow first . You can test this by pulling a vacuum and then immediately releasing it and observing what the lights do. It's always possible the valve has had it, if it uses a soft seat for example, that will eventually wear out. But to be sure about this see if the circuit does as described when releasing the vacuum as you would do if you wanted to open the housing. Another way to test if to see if you can fit your friends valve to see if it comes good with that. BTW the tool you showed is for the new model vacuum valve, you model without the press button uses a wrench with a little pin that fits in one of the holes on the valve. scroll down to the bottom of this link, above the pic of the pump: NauticamNauticam Vacuum Check and Leak Detection SystemNauticam is pleased to announce an exceptionally comprehensive vacuum system that allows the underwater photographer to confirm watertight integrity before entering the water. This system provides add If it doesn't do this as described, you have a different problem. A fresh battery not fixing it does not necessarily it's not a battery issue either, You might have bad battery contacts or the wire or switch has some issues with extra resistance or it could be a problem with the pressure sensor. A new valve/alarm system should certainly get you back in working order if that's the case.

thank you so much!! i will definitely use this info. photos would be great - thank you!

Hi @Kristin You can try to write at [email protected] I like this product. Miso changed the model made improvement over the years. You can buy in on-line shops like VIVID LEAK SENTINEL V6 XD - Plongimage.com or order directly over mail and pay with Wise . I ordered a new one to have a backup.... just in case then I breaked a cable (old model) I fixed the problem but I prefer to have a backup Normally I 'll receive it in the next days. I can publish some pictures when I got it, if you want

@Luko - that sounds like the one I have! I'll try to find a no name one. Do you remember where you got yours? I can't get any light change now after doing what I could to it and reinstalling. @Davide DB sorry, I thought I had answered that! Yes, there was never a problem removing the back. The problem is getting a vacuum seal. I can hear air escaping the valve sometimes even after taking it out and reinstalling. I'm wondering if somehow I am not putting it back together again properly...

Been there, done that (except the reason was that I LOST the cap and figured it out a night before my first dive in a trip to Dauin). That was the older NA M14 vacuum model without the red push button : you had to screw/unscrew a ring around the vacuum. I removed the vacuum with a wrench, cleaned the O-ring as much as I could and went diving. After a gentle cleaning, I noticed it took a longer time for the greenlight to switch to yellow-red (about 2 hours or so) . That was enough for me to go diving : after all, how did we survive before the vacuum times? Back home I purchased a noname M14 vacuum, almost half price of the Nauticam model, coming with a smaller vacuum pump .