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If you decide to separate let me know. I'd be interested in the 10-18 and dome, possible the macro and port as well.

I suggest losing the infill. Instead increase walls and perimeters until there are no voids in the sliced model. Walls are far stronger than infill. Long lines of filament are also stronger than layers, so consider printing orientation vs the expected stresses.

Nauticam a6000 Macro+WA package, YS-D1x2, vacuum, 3 lenses, etc = $2300 Prefer to sell the whole package for now. Will consider separating if no-one is interested for couple weeks. Here's what's included: Sony a6000 body with 3 batteries (2 genuine Sony), 2 chargers, and 2x64GB SD cards Nauticam case with vacuum pump and gauge ZEN DP-170 port with neoprene cover 3 Sony lenses: 10-18mm, 16-70mm, 30mm macro (cant find that 30mm box, otherwise caps, hoods included) 2 Nauticam gears for 10-18 & 16-70 lenses Nauticam macro port for that 30mm lens 4 STIX arms + 4 clamps, I will include 10 extra orings for those ball mounts 2 Sea&Sea YS-D1 flashes with 4 diffusers and 2 optic cables Sanyo enelop batteries, total of 16 pcs, 2 Panasonic chargers I will cover UPS shipping to CONUS. Would ask buyer to cover PayPal fees though. Local Chicagoland pick up can be arranged. Email me with any questions or if more pictures are needed - [email protected] Last picture was taken with this gear.

Hi Hubert, Welcome aboard! Ciao

Hi there, Just another new member of this forum. Been on SB and Wetpixel for decades though :)

What I am trying this time is to increase the infill % to 55% and changing the infill pattern to gyroid. I don't have much room left on the plate to change orientation, I'm afraid.

That's exactly what I decided to try this time - except that I am using M8 bolts. Nothing like overkill, eh?

Next update: It’s disappointing that UW Technics proved to be anything but helpful in this case. After the initial troubleshooting attempts and suggestions all failed to resolve the issue, I pointed out my suspicion that the TTL converter itself might be defective and not functioning properly. Following that, UW Technics blocked me — and since then I have received absolutely no support. What is particularly noteworthy is that, despite their earlier insistence that the converter was fully compatible with Subtronic strobes, Subtronic has meanwhile disappeared from their compatibility list altogether. At no point did I feel that UW Technics was genuinely interested in finding a proper solution. Instead, I was presented with a range of costly and impractical alternatives — from a complex conversion of N5 to S6 connectors (which would not have solved my problem) to purchasing entirely new strobes (which would have cost 3600 Euro). However, the idea of revisiting and potentially improving the converter’s firmware was never considered, as they appeared to regard their product as beyond fault. In the end, it was another manufacturer — one I have trusted for many years — who once again resolved an issue caused by someone else. Therefore, I would like to explicitly commend Subtronic for their commitment and persistence in addressing my problem — and ultimately solving it. It ultimately turned out that the TTL converter was sending inconsistent, noisy signals to the strobe, which had to be electronically smoothed by modifying the strobe itself. A big „Thank you“ to Subtronic!!

Thanks everyone

Selling a used INON snoot set as shown below. I bought it exactly from here (linke below) and used it for a couple of dives only. Asking for €50 plus shipping. UnterwasserKamera.atINON Snoot Set for D-2000/Z-240INON Snoot Set for D-2000/Z-240

Bump These are currently in separate lots but I am happy to sell as a bundle & negotiate on price.

I updated yesterday. No issues so far.

Consider boosting the strength of a ball mount by including a long M3 bolt inside the shaft and with a nut and washer tightened at the far end. Leave an opening on top of the ball to tighten the screw head.

Sorry that you're facing this on location. Having suffered from 5 failed Sea&Sea YS-D2/D3 strobes at various times, my best advice is to get another brand when you're back home... Not very helpful for the problem at hand, I know, for which Chris gave great advice. In my case I suspect that Eneloop Pros were also too powerful for these strobes, and regular white Eneloop were preferable, with at one point a deficient set of batteries that also damaged a strobe. So if you have access to white Eneloops, use that for your remaining strobe. And in my case, when the strobes were fried, I could either manually trigger them but only at full power, or could only see a weak preflash but not the actual flash. So, when you use the optical cable between your working strobe and the dodgy strobe, are you able to adjust the flash power on the dodgy strobe? If so, that should be good news.

Perhaps the orientation might help with strength, I've seen some examples where people print stuff at 45° with a bunch of support, presumably to make the layer lines less likely to snap. https://youtu.be/7aJ4dDyyf20?si=3T__uJ_6qiGAqx85

When I was starting from zero on this I decided to learn free open source programs instead. Food for thought.

Thank you, Eduardo. I will send you a DM.

This has a paid course, but does cover all the basics to get you going as well as a couse in Photoshop. I took the Fine Art Landscape course at one time and it was pretty good. Many folks use PS in conjunction with the Adobe Raw product to do edits, so you have some flexibility. Raw is basically the same editing engine behind LR and the UIs are very similar, and if you have the Photo package with Adobe Creative Cloud, you get Raw as part of the monthly subscription in addition to other tools. Photoshop Course for Photographers | Learn Photo Editing Online

Well, it was a failure, The ball mounts were too weak, despite my reinforcing fillet, so I am currently redesigning it. Mk-II prototype coming up soon.

Check out: https://www.goaskerin.com/ She has free and paid tutorials

I am on best of maldives. I am sure I can wrestle a macro lens in... Thanks everyone.

Hello everyone, My protective ring for the Nauticam MFO-3 lenses is now available online. The basic design idea comes from "flowdesign," whose ring I also used for a while. Tanks for this! Since I've designed various things for SMC, MFO, and CMC lenses, I completely redesigned the protective ring. Now I have excellent protection for my MFO-3 lenses both in the water and during transport. Tino https://makerworld.com/de/models/2548785-lens-bumper-for-nauticam-mfo-3#profileId-2806849 Cover for MFO-3 mounted on Nauticam Bayonet-Adapter for Transport MFO-3 Deckel.stl

there are plenty of youtube videos which I will crack on with but I wondered if there was anything that any of you specifically recommend?

over the years I have tended to JPEG photos but now I am getting more serious I am thinking of shooting in raw and using lightroom to import and then make better I have lightroom on the laptop but am woefully ignorant about how to use it is there a decent online resource to show me how to use it without too much pain?

Picking this thread up as I noticed that the new 24-70 ii is now in Nauticam's FCP-1 list (not sure about the others). I sent them an email to see if they could say something about the quality of the images using this lens vs the kit lens, especially at lower apertures. one gains a little on the narrow end of the FOV but interested to see if that's the only thing there is. Will post their answer here once I get it.