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I have been meaning to make one of those. Someone asked me for some of those... I will see if i can knock that out.

They thread on like a cap. I can thread a 1/4 compression fitting on there. But I'm guessing something in TPU could thread on without actually having to print threads. NauticamOptical Fiber Connector for Nauticam (to use with 26216)(...For use with the Nauticam Universal Fiber Optic Cable. Provides connection to Nauticam housings with threaded optical cable bulkhead.

You can find them here. A review or rating would be appreciated! https://makerworld.com/models/846729?appSharePlatform=copy

Hi Dave, interested in the new designed connectors. It would be great if you shared the print files. Br Markus

Shipping to Australia would probably be about $30 USD.

I will order! Share a picture of the connectors you want, the terminology is sort of fluid. This is an Inon/S&S 7mm connector which is the lowest common denominator.

That's a deal. I'll measure the length I need, if I can cut it with nothing special I'd probably order twice the length I need to have spare. S&S plug on one end and Nauticam on the other.

I'm happy to commit to 6m of cable if you can ship to Australia.

Hey @Johno1530 - I have the same scenario. I was looking strongly at the Kraken 5.5 v2 but ended up with the Karen 7”. Ironically, it is actually a bit thinner and seems to fit the overall housing a bit better. Besides, with my not-so-great eyes I figure a little bigger screen is better. In full transparency I have not yet taken it for a dive as of yet. With that said, I have a couple good friends that use this model and are very happy with the performance and size.

Opens and runs fine on my Mac. BUT cannot import XML dives exported from MacDive. No support for UDDF? That's the most universal dive log format.

Be happy to give it a whirl

I think I would set the minimum quantity to 4 or 6 meters. Two or three pairs of 1 meter cables. I just checked and my cost for 30 meters + shipping is about $9 USA per meter. That is 613 muti-fiber, 2.2mm. The good stuff. I will include the connectors for free. Add $10 for USA shipping. Shipping inside Canada I think is similar. I anyone wants international shipping and is wiling to pay any tariff costs, we can discuss shipping costs. So that is: 36+10 = $46 for 2 pairs of 1 meter cables 54+10 = $64 for 3 pairs of 1 meter cables If I can get at least 2 people to commit, I will go ahead and place an order today. I will use the rest. I wear them out after a few years, and I give away optical cables to my dive buddies as needed. So, I go through whatever I have available in several years. I think I'm down to my last 5 or 6 meters right now.

I'd be in for a set of cables if you can make one end fit Nauticam DSLR?

Did you ever get a response from someone who uses this monitor? I'm either considering: Kraken 5.5 v2 Fotocore Mr6 (Seems difficult to obtain in UK) WEEFINE - WED 5 Pro or WED 7 Pro. I cannot find any real reviews of the Fotocore and only 1 paid review of the Weefine 7 Pro. I am literally only going to be using it for composing photographs and not video, so don't want to spend 'Nauticam' money. Will be interesting to see would people say that are using it. The weefine WED 5 Pro is tempting at only 720g but I wonder if 5 inches display is enough.

Taking offers.

I was thinking about ordering a new batch of cable to Seattle. I could order a bunch and ship some off to wherever. I will be heading to canada in two weeks and could drop some in the mail. Probably 6 meters minimum. I was considering about $200 worth which is around 25-30 meters. Also, i just updated my connector design and they are better than ever. Happy to share some of these too.

Wow, thanks for pointing that out @Grantmac ! I wasn't aware of this and you're right, it's not expensive at all! Perhaps this will be my next upgrade since it'll not arrive in time for my Maldives trip!

The Kraken USB port is not expensive and then you need not open anything under vacuum.

I have a seafrogs 8in dome and it's extremely buoyant! I bought a few things from Aliexpress to test out and see if I can DIY a trim weight "thing". I decided to create a DIY thing because I didn't want to add stress on the port (I have a budget seafrogs thing, so I didn't want to risk anything with the integrity of their already cheaper than big brands materials. I know that Ikelite sells a trim weight "system" but I think the main cons of that setup is that you cannot sit your housing down flat unless you remove the trim weight. So I'm exploring a way to have a quick release mount for the whole trim weight "thing". I'm ordered a combination of stuff: 1. Drop-in quick release: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003763408928.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.40.72c418020eyXO5 2. Z tripod head: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008154501496.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.10.72c418020eyXO5 3. Camera bracket: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010258279569.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.25.72c418020eyXO5 And here's what I envision will happen: 1. Drop-in quick release connecting my tray to the Z tripod head (this part is just so it's easy to remove the whole "weight thing" on the boat 2. Z tripod head so that I can adjust the angle of the weight depending on the port extension I'm using 3. Camera bracket to hold the weight with hand-screws to make adjustments underwater

Thanks for responding guys! So, yes, as @Chris Ross said - I was thinking about my solution of opening just the bulkhead instead of the backside for this exact reason. In South East Asia some times we do surface intervals on boats (and those boats could be those "thai long tail boats" if you can relate or random beaches - opening up the whole back part of the case can be tricky when it's wet, a small space to work in on the boat, or sand on the beach. Hence why I thought opening the bulkhead would make charging the camera / clearing the memory card during surface intervals a lot easier since its a small opening. So instead of: finding a table, finding somewhere clean to put the backside of the housing, plugging in the USB / removing the camera to charge / transfer files then making sure 2 large o-rings are clean, vacuum pump test and dive again With this solution: I just need to put my entire housing into some "cooler bag" I have, open the bulkhead, pull out the USB cable, charge / transfer files then make sure the small o-ring is clean, vacuum pump test and dive. Anyways, I bought some cables and tiny velcro tape strips to try this - will let you know it goes!

I completely agree with @Pooley . Selecting and using the right focus mode for that specific subject or condition is the key. Even choosing the correct size of the spot focus point can impact the result, especially for the tiniest of macro subjects. Some are blessed with great eye sight which allows them to successfully use manual focusing. Sadly, I am not one of those which means I must rely on the camera’s focusing to do the work. The right focus settings for each frame are critical. Yes, the Sony 90 has a bad reputation of slow focus or hunting. When I moved from the a7rIV to the a1 it was a dramatic improvement! I’ve seen all other newer models also perform quite well with the 90. Part of the focus hunting is also simply the nature of any macro lens vs. a wider lens. I find the same even in nature photography above the waves. Lastly, where possible make multiple images of the same subject. I frequently find that perhaps a frame will miss while another one in the same position will lock and provide the sharp focus needed. Again, not just with the Sony 90, but with macro photography in general. Cheers! Chip

Just pushed a new release that fixes a bug with writing the dive data to the exif data to dng files and added auto safty stop detection which works reasonably well The green bar will turn yellow to red as safety stop time goes under 3 mins.

I second Johan’s comment on using a focus light…

I think it kind of depends, for example say you are diving in Lembeh, well known for black sand getting all over everything, it's probably quicker to clean up the o-ring on the seal plug than pull the o-ring and service it particularly on a clamshell style housing. It's about the same as what you would do on a bulkhead which is also o-ring sealed. I agree though that a bulkhead is a better solution if you can source it.

Getting hold of this cable seems a regular problem. Seems impossible to find in Europe too. If you know someone in the US who could get it shipped to them from the US supplier then mail it to you in Canada..... could that work?