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If you look at the colour spaces Macs use DCI-P3 which is a little smaller than Adobe RGB and is extended in reds/yellows more so than blues/green that Adobe RGB covers better. This diagram shows the coverage of various colour spaces:

I agree in principle, One thing that seems apparent there are quite a few flavours of TTL among different strobes, you just have to look at the UWT triggers which have multiple different settings for all the different strobes and a different trigger model for each camera brand. I believe the timings are different with each type of TTL and I suspect this is a reason TTL is regarded as unreliable underwater as up until recently a universal slave TTL was all that was available. I heard somewhere that Olympus RC is open source so it does not need reverse engineering to make it work so in principle UW strobes that work with RC mode will work as well as any Olympus strobe on land when shooting TTL. It was also specifically setup to send TTL commands optically. This is probably the reason it might work a little better.

Im looking for a Nauticam 140 mm Fisheye-Domeport (N120).

Hey Ron, Hope all is well and it looks like you had a great trip on the Arenui, really liked your video nice work!

I got the Backscatter Sony flashtrigger that is able to trigger the HF-1 in HSS mode and tested out by myself (with Sony A7R5): When the "drive mode" is set to "slow" (3 fps), only every 4th image is lit by the strobe and the other three are black... => This means that drive mode is not working with HSS. The flash fires after every (approx.) 1.3s ... For fast sequences one has to remain in the regular "manual mode", within the limits of the flash sync. speed.

Ah, that is the reason for macro focused on your rig. I would be interested to see and hear your post trip photos/experiences. Particularly macro photo vs video. I personally find macro vs wide angle and photo vs video to be opposite in difficulty. W/A photo difficult, W/A video easy. Macro video difficult, macro photo easy.

Just tested it: the difference is visible on my MacBook Pro M4, but nowhere near as pronounced as on my Eizo monitor. Therefore: the Adobe RGB color space is probably not being reproduced at 100% accuracy.

This picture is showing using the built in flash. Since your R8 doen't have a built in flash, there's no DS-TTL or S-TTL capability, because there's no flash to mimic. And the seafrogs trigger is manual only, no TTL. You could consider a TRT electronics TTL trigger, or a UWT trigger.

No problem, they are nice to work with - right! One thing to remember, if you are posting these, browser are mostly default colour managed now, however they will assume your image is sRGB unless it is tagged otherwise, You do need to keep the colour profile in the file, there is generally a check box to include the colour profile in the file when you save. Unfortunately you need the good monitor to see the benefit, Apple users will be close, but if they are being viewed by photography enthusiasts they are more likely to have a good monitor.

To all who recommended the Eizo…wow were you right! The photo and video quality is amazing, and this is on a 12 year old monitor! It really has me thinking whether I want a newer 27 Eizo to pair with the CX271, or if I’m better off getting a monitor better suited to HDR with higher resolution? Thanks again!

North Sulawesi—NAD Lembeh on the Lembeh Strait. Going with Underwater Tribe, who was recommended to me as a great group of photo instructors. Plan to shoot mostly macro stills, but also try some video with the M10 and GoPro.

You can get very close with it, it compresses the range that will focus quite a bit, I haven't tested the limits of it at the short end, but the port chart says it will focus from 0-1500mm and get to 0.8x implying it will focus from the glass out to 1.5m away. If I need to get super close, it seems the best solution is often to remove the MFO3 and use the bare lens as you will get more magnification and working distance. The exception would be murky water with particles and you want to get closer to reduce backscatter.

Hi Chris Its very interesting that you mention this because I was wondering the other day how the focus range works with the MFO-3. So if infinity is 1.5 meters away - then how close can you get with focus set to minimum-focusing-range? I've only used my MFO-3 twice. The first time I had the limiter to 0-0.28cm. So needless to say I did not try it that dive. The second dive we aborted prematurely because of the conditions. So I have effectively not used it ever. haha.

Look forward to seeing your photos and video from your new rig. What part of Indonesia are you diving ?

It is possible that it is not getting brighter than 0 to reduce heat in the air. I'll try in a water environment.

The video lights seem great. The more yellow photo is from Keldan Luna 4. I don’t see much change of brightness over +0 but I’ll play some more. If there are other good tests to do let me know.

Bag is 55 x 40 x 20 cm and with the insert is just about 1kg Seems to work fine so far Bill

I created the attached N85 focus gear for a Sigma 10-18mm zoom on my Sony a6700. I took the Canon 8-15 zoom gear that @Chris Ross posted here, and modified it to fit the Sigma. I'm using the housing zoom knob in the NA-A6700, since my N85-N120 adapter doesn't have the integrated zoom knob (my preference, tbh). While I haven't tested it wet yet everything fits and zooms correctly. A few notes/changes from Chris's model: Added the four "guide nubs" on the geared end to help keep the gear aligned around the lens Thickened the "front" end to make up for the smaller lens diameter from the 8-15mm Increased the length overall from 41mm to 54mm Used a few pieces of cloth medical tape to give the inside of the ring some grip in addition to closing up the clearance (honestly I didn't want to redo the model to make up for about 1mm total extra clearance) When aligning the gear on the lens, you need to make sure the guide nub doesn't catch on the white raised "lens alignment" dot. It will keep you from using the full zoom range if it is in the way An M3 locknut and 16mm m3 screw are used to tighten down the ring on the lens's zoom ring Printing notes: Printed in regular PLA, 35% infill, with a 7mm outside brim to promote adhesion to the print bed Used a Bambu A1 Mini, and have the 3mf if anyone prefers that N85 Sigma 10-18mm Zoom Ring v2-fixed.stl

If only I had a camera, will get one later today BVA

I had an SF-01 and sold it. Worked in manual mode ok and reliable, and battery life was good with the two 18650. Double sealed battery compartment. I didn’t like the light distribution even with cap, light color was ok. The steps in brightness were uneven, so if I needed only a little light I got often overexposure. I wouldn’t recommend it. Same as in lenses: cheap is weak.

Photo!

Regardless, I will take watt seconds over GN. At least I know how much energy is being dumped, the efficiency of the flash tube and reflector/lens design aside. The strobe test that is a sticky in this forum is one of the better if not best attempts at displaying relative power/brightness.

I heard back from Harald at Seacam. These were his port extension recommendations for the SD and FMP-C and the Canon 8-15mm with and without the Sony 2X TC. CANON EF 8-15mm > Metabones V adapter > Sony 2X TC > Sony camera: SD SUPERDOME + PVL75 PORTEXTENSION (20 + 25 + 30) CANON EF 8-15mm > Metabones V adapter > Sony camera: SD SUPERDOME + PVL45 PORTEXTENSION (20 + 25) CANON EF 8-15mm > Metabones V adapter > Sony 2X TC > Sony camera: FMP-C + PVL55 PORTEXTENSION (25 + 30) CANON EF 8-15mm > Metabones V adapter > Sony camera: FMP-C + PVL25 PORTEXTENSION (25) I have the necessary port extensions on hand so I went ahead and purchased the 8-15mm, Metabones V and Sony 2X TC. I intend to try these configurations when I go to Bonaire. I won't have a zoom gear, so I'll be setting the FL between dives and I'll see how these configurations perform for me.

I upgraded to a Hero 13 last year spring before our trip to Fiji. I wasn't happy with the quality without lights, although after many months I finally started playing with the clips in iMovie and adjusting white balance did some pretty amazing things. I bought a Backscatter Sharp Wide wet lens last fall and dove with it in December in Monterey. Very happy with the improved quality, but not with my ability to maneuver the GoPro in 5mm gloves. Picked up a tray with trigger, but haven't tried it out yet in water--seems to be a great improvement above water. The tray also gives me the ability to add 1 or 2 lights. I started getting interested in diving in Indonesia which means macro. GoPro doesn't do macro realistically so I dove down the underwater photography rabbit hole. I was somewhat restrained in camera and housing choosing the OM Systems E-M10 IV micro 4/3 camera and the AOI octo housing. I also got the 60 mm macro lens, port, and focus gear. I was less restrained on accessories, figuring I could reuse/resell strobes. I bought 2 Backscatter HF-1 strobes/video lights, various arms and floats, as well as an MF-1 with snoot and a Bluewater video light with the idea I can use the MF-1 or Bluewater light as a focus light. I've only gotten the camera and housing wet in the pool using the pancake kit lens and natural light. I'm pretty happy with the results. Heading to Cocoview in April for a couple weeks of intense practice along with a 1-day class with Mickey Charteris, and Indonesia or a couple weeks in July.

I've found that SnS DS-TTL works as INON S-TTL https://www.inon.jp/technicalguide/sttl-auto.html So it seems like a better choise for TTL and manual for cameras with built in flash. But mine Seafrogs optical trigger doesn't work with TTL signal, unfortunately.