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The Canon apparently only vignettes slightly on Sony FF bodies and only at distance. The idea would be for a wider lens. Interestingly the little 30mm Sony ASP-C macro covers a larger area of the FF sensor than you'd think and is quite fast. So if I can find a port to fit it that would be a wider option that can basically focus on the glass.

The Canon 60mm macro is an APS-C lens and using it on an APS-C system should be decent and gives you 90mm focal length which is +/- a standard macro lens for an APS-C system, while the 90 mm is 135mm equivalent and in my mind a bit long for an APS-C system unless you are shooting mostly very small things. I don't recall but I'm guessing you shoot APS-C Sony? Assuming APS-C Sony, to make it more difficult to work out what to do, I expect you could use the MFO3 on the 60mm lens as well, I know it certainly works well with my 60mm olympus macro lens and gives you a decently wide view which would be better if you are shooting weedy sea dragon (400mm long ) size critters if you expect to encounter critters in this size range. You would of course need to check it will work - Nauticam have remove dthe EF-s 60mm from their port chart, but the Nikon 60mm macro is listed on the that chart as working with the MFO3 so I expect it probably should work as long as the flat port fits well. You could check for vignetting on land. It might also work with the Zeiss 50mm macro which has a few fans on this site as I recall, but again you'd need to check for vignetting. Having said all that the big attraction for me is carrying a wider view with you when shooting macro.

Arrived today! Do you have a reccomendation on a stap to mount it to the DPV? I saw one site advertising a rubber coated "non-slip cam band" but not sure how important that is or if any strap will do. Perhaps some type of polyeurathan coated tank strap?

I've used the Canon 60mm but not the MFO-3 yet. The 60mm on full frame behind a flat port doesn't give the best image quality. It's useable, but from what I've seen, the MFO-3 should be better. The 90mm + MFO-3 is also wider than the 60mm, and it can focus closer. And native autofocus may offer some advantages versus the adapted 60mm. Adding in the versatility of being able to switch between the 90mm and MFO-3 underwater, to me, the MFO-3 seems like the more desirable option.

Great, thanks - I'll double-check with them for mine. I tried polishing an AOI wet diopter (UCL 05-N) - it's coated glass. The coating is now off on the central part but I can't seem to remove on the edges - not sure how this affects images (the diopter was already pretty much unuseable, which is why i gave it a spin).

I have the 90mm and port, which I understand can also fit the Canon 60mm and metabones. It's my intent to adapt the Canon 8-15 at some point in the future so the adapter is coming one way or another. Other than a bit of vignette on longer shots and the ability to shoot two FL on one dive, is there any other reason to prefer the MFO?

Hi, I sent you a PM. Thanks.

Which AOI wet lens did you try to polish? Is it possible that it’s an acrylic dome rather than glass? I asked Nauticam support and they replied: "The outside of the port is uncoated glass, and there is an internal AR coating."

I just got a request for an Atom Knob from a frustrated cold water diver. I made a pretty cool replacement and will test it this weekend. Atom HF-1 Retra Miniflash https://makerworld.com/@awkward_swine/collections/16165730?appSharePlatform=copy

Oh well, I have Maxi strobes on the way with the WA diffusers. Boil water and fry fish!

@divegypsy Sorry for the delayed response. I've been in Lembeh on a drive trip. Yes, two chargers are included. Sorry, I forgot to include that information or the pics of the chargers, but yes, they are included. The strobes are in great working condition. Originally purchased in 2012, but are well taken care of. I purchased the new battery packs in 2022 right before a trip to Tiger Beach. Right before listing I tested the battery packs on the strobes and they hold similar charge to when I first purchased them. So they are in good working condition.

The Apollo S strobes I used for several weeks did not have a pre-flash kill. The MTL mode is a continuous mode they suggest for that purpose but it fires on the preflash which is annoying to make two flashes when shooting manual. They perhaps have added that feature now, do not know. They are very nice strobes, the ones I used were missing a feature critical to my use and my camera. The manual reads no different for the S III. Back panel of S model and excerpt from S III model. Where do I set preflash kill on this strobe? When shooting in manual MTL mode with my Sony I got two flashes at the chosen power setting with the exposure flash diminished at higher power settings. Was it malfunctioning? I miss too many shots with the UWT trigger board, any strobe I buy must be capable of running from the pop ups. I do use the UWT board for macro. I have used a pair of the older Retras and they ran fine on the Sony in all modes from pop up and the UWT board in TTL and manual and did not fire on the preflash. As neither do the Inon Z and S strobes I have owned or used. To kill preflash on the Maxi the manual instructs the user to use the app to program the custom feature on the U position.

How did it go with the coating? I bought a Japanese cerium oxide paste ( Yanase YGC-C30 ) which is premixed and tried it on an AOI wetlens and the coating removal is really visible. From what I understood Nauticam flat ports are also coated on the outside - did it remove the coating on yours?

I do not use Apollo S myself, but according to marelux the Apollo S 2.0 has two dedicated switch position on their left rotary dial called M-PRE and M. The M-PRE position should do what you are looking for and cancel out the preflash. M-PRE is supposed to fire out just one flash. They have this on their Apollo S and Apollo Y but not on my III 2.0.

Macro port has been sold. Zoom Gear available for $175 Lens available for $600

Using the MTL mode the Apollo S fired two flashes, once for the preflash and one for the exposure flash instead of one single flash. Maybe I did something wrong. Yes, I get an exposure but I also get two rapid flashes instead of just one. They are great strobes, just that feature did not work for my main camera.

Ehhhrmm,… which sony are you talking about? Your sony A6400 ? … should not be an issue with that one. Furthermore I am pretty sure all their Apollo strobes successfully handle pre-flash. If I wanted manual strobing on my Apollo III with preflash in my cam I will simply put it in MTL mode.

1) Agreed, the Maxi is > Pro Max II. Slap on a 4500k filter and call it day. Don't talk to me about "quality of light". Dump your 32 AA batteries in the recycle bin or donate them to your Inon wielding buddies. 5) HF-1 is heaver then the Maxi in the water, by just 2 jumbo-Stix cubes The Maxi based system is heavier on land (barely) and just two float blocks give it parity in the water. So not that big of a difference. But the Maxi wins on brightness by a decent margin.

Wanted both Ikelite 75344 D0me port and 75028 extension Please contacted me if you have these available ?

Another hypothetical, if a person could $afford$ the Pro Max, would that person still choose the Maxi? Is it selfish to buy strobes that cost more than what it would take to feed an entire village of starving children and sponsor a dozen "animals" on the ASPC commercial? Not going to name the person or the company, lol but this was their consideration on strobes: Go Retra, get the Maxi, not the Pro Max II YS/S&S are "GD" junk Inon, blah, blah, blah Kraken, everything they make leaks (just happen to have a Kraken light full of water) HF-1 is too "GD" heavy in the water Unlike the sport of golf which has caddies to carry my clubs if I played golf, to bad scuba/UW photography does not have a caddy to carry my camera. Oh, wait, they do have an under privileged, often abused, under paid equivalent, the Dive Master! Maybe I can coerce one to tote my stuff around for me because with the Maxi strobes I think I will need one. I am kinda scrawny and not very strong :(.

Parasitic copepod of the family Pennellidae, Cardiodectes sp., possibly Cardiodectes bertrandi. I got the ID from a Facebook group called ID please (Marine creature identification) on a photo of mine I posted there, which is pretty good at getting IDs

No, last paragraph of post 1. No universal TTL, otherwise that is exactly what I would do, two Atoms. But they have proprietary OM RC TTL only and I shoot Canon/Sony/Nikon and the Sony trigger they have will not fit in my housing which already has an expensive UWT trigger. I really do not understand Back Scatter's fascination with RC TTL to the exclusion of universal TTL when most people who I know shoot Canon/Nikon/Sony and the only OM shooters I see with exception here and there are shooting the TG. I have quotes out for a pair of Maxi strobes. Still consider Pro Max II. I want the ability to shoot TTL when I need it or just feeling lazy. I liked the Marelux Apollo and they are nice strobes but they do not have pre-flash cancel which is a no go with my Sony.

Amazing! Love the bright pink an the hosing on around the cable. Super fun!

Just made my first set from your designs @Dave_Hicks@Dave_Hicks they worked great. I did make a new design for the toslink end as I just left the 6mm cable onbut they work great. Even triggering TTL. Thanks for uploading the files!

SOLD