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Guess I need to get back in tomorrow then!

I have many dive trips using these cables with these strobes, just not with this camera body. What do you mean by 'manual '? The inon has a manual mode which is similar to full output but you can reduce the brightness manually. I have tried both 0 and 1. I have tested using both cables.

Unfortunately the evidence is that the cables are not putting enough light through, the INON strobes are usually easily triggered. The strobes should trigger through the cable with an IR remote. try the test with the strobe in manual - first thing to try is to get it working in manual - a strobe in manual is better than no strobe. It's not 100% clear from what you have said, you mention more light coming out of the cable at position 0 compared to position 1, however some questions to clarify: Have you tried to trigger strobes in both positions 1 and zero with the trigger? Have you tested both cables? Are you testing with the cables plugged into the housing? If so have you confirmed the LEDs are well seated in the fibre ports, i.e. pushed all the way in? The instructions mention this and I recall a few times this was the problem people had with triggering. Is there someone else there who has a cable being used with a LED trigger that you could borrow briefly for testing purposes. What were you triggering the strobes with before this trip? A different trigger? an onboard flash? It's important to check all of these things and report back if we are to have a chance to successfully troubleshoot.

Thanks!!

Hello, anyone have this lying around and looking to sell? Hit me a message :) Thank you!

With fond memories of Nikonos 15mm (94 degrees), which after extensively reviewing my favourite WA images, and checking what cropping I did (or didn't) do, suits my (Sony A7CR / A7RV) WA needs: 20-70 but needs 180 dome so not as portable as I would prefer, but can be (nearly) a do-anything lens, especially for coral reefs 16-25 - works fine with 140 dome at f11 or smaller. And (controversially) not wide but can shoot quite large stuff: 50 macro with 140 dome. I don't do adapted other-brand lenses or water contact stuff.

To use LED triggers in TTL/HSS modes, you should use new type 613 fiber optic cables. Other cable models may have a significantly lower transmission index. The type 613 cable is also mentioned in the trigger User Manual. You have to configure the trigger and camera according to the User Manual, step by step.

Thank you Wolfgang & John - your insights are very helpful! I am feeling a lot less overwhelmed now :) Ready to start building this kit out! Happy diving and wishing you all many wonderful adventures above and below the sea.

With the dial set to 0, I am able to see a bright red light by looking into the end of the cable when I take a picture. With 1, the light is not as bright. The hotel remote reliably fires the strobe directly, but not through the optical cable. I have 2 strobes and cables that worked together in the past. I know this isn't just the wrong type of cable, and it is unlikely the cable is damaged.

Thanks! We had some major floods last month that put so much silt in Puget Sound that I could only see one of my two fins. :) It's a lot better now.

Those pictures look great Dave, my last dive in Washington I could barely see my fins 😅

I'm hoping someone here can help me with a Meta issue. Beyond what I can figure out with googling or basic trouble-shooting. I woke up this morning to find my account has been suspended. the "appeals" thing is a joke. If someone is savvy in the way of the algorithm please reach out. At this stage I'd prefer to do it privately via messages etc. thank you :)

I did get it to turn with the appropriate screwdriver but scratched it badly with trial and error. I haven't tried it yet in the new position. The Leds are firing, but maybe not enough to fire the strobes. I thought I had this working 6 months ago. I don't really remember. I'm so crazy busy I almost canceled my trip. I didn't even have time to pack everything, just threw stuff in a suitcase and went.

UWTechnics supplies a small 2x0.5mm flat-head screwdriver with every product. Here is the photo: This is a very popular flat tip size. It can be purchased at most hardware and auto parts stores. Please note that the rotary switch shaft is made of soft plastic (easily damaged with the wrong tool). It's best to use a standard small 2x0.5mm or similar size screwdriver.

Anti-Fog Mask from SEAC at Salon International de la Plongée Sous-Marine 2026

Sharing are a few more wide-angle shots with the Maxi's. The water conditions around the PNW tend to be fairly particulate at the best of times, so I normally like to use reductions rings. The Maxi strobes (and my HF-1) are pretty cold around 6200-6500k so I also like to use a warming filter. Retra's wide angle 4500k warming dome is not compatible with reduction rings however. I ended up fabricating custom reduction rings a with 5500k --> 4500k gel filter installed. I think it all worked out really nicely and I was satisfied with the results. A note on battery life - Using 5300mah batteries, I took about 330 photos across two dives on this outing. At the end of the day the battery indicator light was still Green, meaning they still had greater than 75% state of charge. I only used the spotting lights a little bit to illuminate the GPO in its den. Battery life of the Maxi's seems to be great. I'm looking forward to some three-dive-days in the future to really stress them out. The photos below were not edited for white balance, this is how the colors came out of the camera set to auto white balance with using the 4500k filters: Nikon Z8 w/24-50mm, WWL-C, Pair Retra Maxi strobes Custom Reduction Ring and filter:

Finger nail? I can turn my UWT switch with a finger nail, a Swiss Army knife, a plastic spoon, a dinner knife, toothpick. If the trigger LEDs are confirmed to be firing and the strobes are not firing then the issue is either the optical cables or the strobes. Or they are not aligned with the optical windows. If the LEDs are not firing then try new batteries and if that does not work you may be --------. If the LEDs are firing and the strobes are firing but not syncing then please set the TTL switch to 0 and set your strobes to manual and configure them for no preflash (Hardwired Manual Mode). In the future I find it useful to always set my gear up at home on the kitchen table even to the dismay and consternation of my wife person and make sure everything is working. I also usually do a pool dive to confirm integrity and operation. And I do these things in plenty of time to work out bugs, order whatever might be broken and get some help. And I carry spares, spare cables, batteries, tools etc. like a screw driver or my Swiss Army to turn that TTL trigger switch. This could be an expensive learning opportunity. Off subject, triggers and all of that complexity are cool and offer many advantages but there is also much to be said for rigs that can trigger from a built in camera strobe. Simplicity, always works, bad cables will usually still trigger because the camera flash is so much brighter than an LED, no batteries to go dead, no contacts to corrode, no electrical cables to break, fray or disconnect. It just works, plain and simple.

I guess that there‘s a contest for everyone out there. Non-processed is not „morally superior“ to AI-sharpened - it‘s a matter of budget (mostly) and taste. But if you enter a contest, you want the judges to make sure that everyone adheres to the SAME set of rules. And in the end, it should be the most pleasing pictures that win, not the most perfectioned ones (my opinion).

I have had nothing but problems with several GoPro standard housings. Having to shim the camera precisely and even then not working correctly.

I have never entered an UW photo contest and the last contest of any sort that I entered was black and white film contest of street and people shots. I entered what I shot and developed in the darkroom because that is all there was. I think there should be two tiers of entries, manipulated/processed using the various software and AI and then the other being the jpeg straight from the camera with no editing or cropping allowed and verified against the RAW. Edit to add, I never said nor inferred one superior to the other, only that there should be a level playing field with known rules, one could be the wild, wild west, anything goes, the other nothing allowed.

From what I can see in testing of Burst shots and recycle time, I think that Retra has designed the Maxi to prioritize triggering the flash with each frame. The Maxi will continue to fire with each frame even if at a reduced the power level. This is probably a valid choice at 1/8th or 1/4 power. At 1/2 or Full power I think this breaks down as the subsequent shots in the sequence become so underexposed that they might not be useful. The Backscatters seem to prioritize hitting the expected exposure with every flash, and will start dropping frames when they can't keep up anymore. At 1/2 and Full power the Atom still delivered useful exposures even if only every second or third frame. The HF-1 only skipped frames at Full power and then exposed every second frame. I think this is a case where preferences will vary.

No, please read it again. I tested with 3fps for 10 frames. The Maxi works perfectly at 1/8th power. Any higher power and you lose start to reduce the exposure with each subsequent frame. It's a gradual drop off at 1/4, and more significant at 1/2 and Full power. The Backscatter HF-1 and Atom are ramp up a bit higher in burst shooting. They never shoot an significantly underpowered frame. Instead they start skipping frames. Both work perfectly at 1/8 and 1/4. The Atom starts skipping every other frame at 1/2 power. The HF-1 starts skipping every other frame only at Full power, and the Atom skips two frames at Full.

I have both SSi and PADI solo/self-sufficient diver certs, so I don't worry too much about getting separated from the group. This is especially so at CoCoView Resort since I have been there so many times. It drives some of the group crazy, but i don't worry about it too much. My wife, who is my dive buddy, also tends to wander off a bit as well. I mostly focus on macro video so I tend to stay in one spot for a while when I can. Same ocean...

We've done a follow up RAW episode - discussion about contests - which will be out in about a week (I am rather busy right now). Alex

Never had an issue operation my gopro with either their housing or an Isotta housing (using 3mm gloves and dry gloves) Matan.