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I wonder if this would be true of the ULM laser trigger as well

Marelux Macroview 60 wet conversion lens is now shipping and it looks like this. The mount is 67mm and can be used with a flip adapter, direct 67mm adapter or with the bayonet adapter shown on the macro port photo for the Sony 100mm macro lens. The bayonet mount adapter ship's with the lens and can also be used with the Marelux Macroview closeup lenses. Installed the 100mm 24 degree AOV becomes A 60mm 40 degree AOV. More information can be found in the products section on the Marelux.co website.

I have found that sometimes the battery end contacts form an oxide layer that increases resistance. Spinning them in the charger will help them to make better contact and complete a cycle.

I have a large inventory of AA Eneloops of varying age and the Powerex 8 cell “smart” charger. In preparation for a liveaboard trip this weekend I set out to charge them since I’ve not been in the water for a month. Something has gone wrong as the batteries never complete the charge cycle, whether a normal fast charge, a soft charge, or a reconditioning cycle. I’m guessing it’s the charger, since this is happening regardless of the age of the batteries. Does anyone know how to test the charger, or if this is a known issue with (hopefully!) a known remedy? I am in Fiji and can only find super cheap 2-cell chargers which would not be ideal, I’m out of time to order a replacement, and I would hate to have to buy and pack 96 alkaline batteries at $4 a pop!

Welcome!

Hey Tora! A warm welcome to Waterpixels. Great to have you with us. We don’t have many members in China so you’re extra welcome! We hope you enjoy the forum. Best wishes

Hi everyone! I’m Tora from Shanghai, China. I shoot with a Sony A7RV in Nauticam system. I’ve mainly been focused on macro in the past, but recently I’ve been branching out into more wide‑angle shooting and marine mammal photography. Looking forward to connecting with you all and discussing shooting and gear info here😊

It looks to be a neat solution. I like the try-it-and-see approach for zoom fisheye lenses combined with teleconverters noting that if the fisheye lens can focus close enough to the dome then it is advantageous for CFWA to have the extension as short as possible irrespective of vignetting.

@Chris Ross Here are the non-scientific, “try-it-and-see” results. The housing was placed in the same position on all tests. Details are on each image. Note “16mm” is 8mm plus the 2x TC. There is also an image of the actual 50mm extension setup to validate. The dome is the Nauticam 140 dome with the removable shade attached. The zoom gear used is the Nauticam C815-Z+1.4 The knob on the N100-N120 35.5 adapter controls the zoom gear. Note - the tripod mount on the Metabones V needed to be removed as it was blocked by the lock mechanism in the N100 30 Extension. Remember, this was not intended to be a test of a compelling image or focus chart. It was simply to see what works and does not. I am not interested in math equations regarding perceived optimal lens placement. I just wanted to see the trial and error results. Hopefully this is helpful info.

Since the 16-35 f2.8 GM mark ii has a minimum focus distance of 22cm compared to the 28cm of the mark i, my understanding is that is more flexible with dome diameter. I agree that the lighter acrylic dome is worth considering, especially for snorkelling with whales. It is personal preference, but I like this system when climbing in and out of small boats, although I have a Sony A7Rv in an Isotta housing with Canon 8-15mm plus 1.4x teleconverter and the Sony 20-70mm which both fit the same 60mm extension and 8 inch dome.

Hi Chip, by removing the mount, you mean the tripod mount attached to the Metabones? Good information that a standard zoom gear works with this setup. Does that mesh with the adapter gear or the housing gear? Not doubting what you observed at all, but it does seems odd that your setup vignettes at 60mm plus 35.5mm adapter but Wolfgang reports he uses 60mm total extension with the 35.5mm adapter, the fact some of the extension is on the other side of the adapter should make no difference.

Relisted and price dropped in Marketplace: https://waterpixels.net/marketplace/listing/21-aoi-flp‑06-flat-port-superficial-acrylic-marks-optically-clean-105/

Selling my Ikelite DS160 strobe head. I purchased years back, but never used. Confirmed functions as normal. Simply add a battery. Includes: DS160 head, Diffuser, Manual, and charger **Does not include battery. Price: $250 including shipping to lower 48 Shipping to US only, please. Payment: PayPal F&F (no fee method) or Zelle (add 3.5% for PayPal Goods and Services) Please reach out with any questions. Reasonable offers considered. Thanks for looking!

UPDATE - I was able to remove the mount at the bottom of the Metabones. This allowed the N100 30 Extension to be mounted directly to the housing. Setup in order of assembly: NA-a1, N100 30 Extension, N100-N120 35.5 adapter, N120 20 Extension, Nauticam 140 dome Sony a1, Sony 2x TC, Metabones V, Canon 8-15 Initial image quality looks good. No vignetting with the shade attached. The real test will be in the water soon. BONUS: Based on the setup above, the Nauticam 815+TC Zoom Gear works perfectly!! Collecting all the various bits over the years pays off. 😁 FURTHER UPDATE w/ 60mm: I also setup the following to allow a total of 60mm of extension (30+30): NA-a1, N100 30 Extension, N100-N120 35.5 adapter, N120 30 Extension, 140 dome RESULTS: Shade is very prominent in image until ~12mm. This leaves only 3mm of zoom, which is no zoom at all. In short, the shade must be removed leaving the glass completely unprotected. Image quality does not appear to be noticeably different. Short answer, thank for the useful comments. Fortunately, I have an existing solution and do not need to "invest" any more than already made! WooHoo!!!! Cheers! chip @Architeuthis @Sokrates @Chris Ross @Gudge

Good choice. Now you dont have to second guess about the camera. Theres a good chance you can use the old camera to some extent, fingers crossed. Just dont force it when trying. But to be in the situation where you would need the old body, something really catastrophic would have already happened. For lenses, you could just forget the 16-35 as the 8-15 covers very well, specially with the TC. And have the 140mm dome which would be better for your Polynesia. Or if want to go with big dome route cheaply, get the 8" acrylic dome. They go for €400 used and brand spankers isnt too much either (compared to 230mm glass). And in all seriousness, im still going to suggest Nikonos RS13 for the long term😉 Unless the upcoming Laowa 8-15 AF is really really really good.

All items sold

I followed your advice and bought the A7R VI, the Nauticam housing is arriving this week! There’s also a small chance that the A7 IV will fit the same housing after comparing them side by side, but I’ll have to test it when I get the housing. The next step is choosing the right lens, haha. I’m currently still torn between the WACP-C with the Sony 28–60 kit lens, or going with the larger 230mm dome port. The dome would let me use the 16–35mm f/2.8 GM II that I already own, and it would also work with the Canon 8–15mm fisheye. It’s definitely the more expensive option, but it offers a lot more flexibility underwater, at the cost of a lot of extra weight. Could also use the smaller dome but that's not a good option for the 16-35...

Please contact me if you're wanting to buy. I have one I'm thinking to sell. Gary

As I understand only the mKV works if you want to use it with the TC, the ID of the MkV adapter is bigger so the nose of the teleconverter fits through.