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I have access to a chamber which can do 100m, but it's in Victoria BC.

Well, there will be the dive case so I will get the X6 then. 👍

Thanks, I see that it might work but Saga is mostly not communicating right now. Interesting that the Bluewater description talks about 67 mm thread on the port which her port doesn't have. BVA

The head that Lauren showed is actually insert molded and can't be fixed. Dave's connectors will work as will the Inon Bushings or the angled connectors from Howshot. Bill

GONE. No longer available.

Cool. Yes I do have waterproof caps for sealing both ends of the extensions.

GONE. No longer available.

Looks dodgy. One thought though. Some of my diopters included a M67 "spacer" ring. Perhaps something like that could be screwed on with some necessary force and then left in place to mount other items on the good spacer threads? Perhaps someone has an unused spacer they could donate? Example: https://reefphoto.com/products/nauticam-m67-spacer-ring-for-smc-cmc

Hello all, I've come across a Nauticam flat port 45 with a damaged M67 thread - it doesn't look great, the thread seems quite crushed and mounting anything is not an option, which is a deal breaker. However I thought I'd ask for your opinion - since this is aluminium and quite soft, does it look like there might be an option to rethread it? The pictures are not the clearest, but all I have for now. thanks!

Tamron seem to be producing a lot of interesting lenses I have the 11-20 2.8 apsc lens which is pretty sharp and much cheaper

There was a tread about his distance, maybe you can get the required information from there: Furthermore, the Google AI says that Isotta and Sea&Sea are "cross-compatible", since they have the same distance - but this MUST be confirmed by Isotta, Sea&Sea or owners here, before building on this: "How big is the difference in flange distance between Isotta, Sea & Sea and nauticam housings for underwater use of FF cameras? In underwater photography housings, the "housing flange distance"—the mechanical measurement from the camera’s actual lens mount to the front opening of the housing where lens ports or extension rings attach—varies considerably across brands. [1, 2] Isotta and Sea & Sea share an identical native port mount design, meaning their housing flange distances are effectively the same, while Nauticam stands apart with a significantly longer flange distance on its standard full-frame (N120) housings. [1, 2] The Flange Distance Comparison When comparing housings designed for Full-Frame (FF) mirrorless cameras (such as Sony E-mount, Canon RF, or Nikon Z), the approximate mechanical distances from camera mount to housing port opening are: Isotta (B120 Mount): ~38 mm Sea & Sea (Custom Bayonet): ~38 mm (Native cross-compatibility with Isotta) Nauticam (N120 Mount): ~60 mm (ranging between 58.8 mm and 66 mm depending on the specific camera model’s native body depth) [1, 2, 3] The difference in housing flange distance between Nauticam and Isotta / Sea & Sea is roughly 22 mm. [1] Why This Difference Matters Because Nauticam positions its housing port opening roughly 22 mm further forward, it changes how lenses align inside the port system: [1, 2] Port & Extension Ring Lengths: If you cross-adapt a port between these brands, you cannot use the same extension ring sizes. A lens setup that requires a 40 mm extension ring on an Isotta/Sea & Sea housing will typically require a much shorter extension ring (or no ring at all) on a Nauticam housing to keep the lens elements perfectly aligned with the dome port's optical center. [1, 2] Native Cross-Compatibility: Because Isotta and Sea & Sea share the exact same physical bayonet system and flange depth, their native ports, extension rings, and dome ports can be swapped directly between housings without any adaptation. [] Using Nauticam Ports on Isotta/Sea & Sea: You can use Nauticam N120 ports on Isotta or Sea & Sea housings by swapping out the port's rear lug plate for a Sea & Sea style lug plate. Because the Isotta/Sea & Sea housing is shallower (~38 mm) than the Nauticam (~60 mm), the adapted Nauticam port will sit closer to the camera. To compensate, Isotta offers specific adapter rings (like the H18 and H26 B120-to-N120 adapters) which physically space the Nauticam port forward by 18 mm to 26 mm to perfectly recreate the correct optical distance. [1, 2, 4, 5] If you are trying to calculate a specific configuration, what camera body and lens model are you planning to use? I can help you look up the precise extension ring math or official port charts for your setup. [1]"

Seems like an event every 6-8 weeks at the moment

In general you can compare extensions on the port charts to work out any difference in required extension between different housing manufacturers. For example the 14-30 in S&S uses a 40mm extension while Isotta uses a 60mm extension. So a S&S uses 20mm less extension than an Isotta based upon this. It should follow over to the macro ports so the h63 port on the port chart for ISotta you should need a h43 which Isotta also make. - BUT please contact Isotta to confirm this. Once you know you need x mm more or less extension with S&S housing compared to the port chart you are set for any combination. You would need to source a zoom gear though and may need to get that 3D printed, but given the cost savings of not getting a new system, it seems like it's worth it. You could ask on here if anyone has 3D printed a gear? You may also be able to adapt a zoom gear you already have if one of your lenses is close to the dia of the 24-50.

That sounds great. 55m is more than enough for me. Do you have some end caps to seal the ends of n100 / n120 rings? Or should I provide something?

@Dave_Hicks Sure, no problem. Though my 100m chamber has an inner diameter of only a little over 100mm. It can fit N100 stuff but not N120. My larger chamber can fit N120 stuff and even housings, but it maxes out around 55m.

Thank you for the info it is something I will look into. Dave has offered to send me some plugs that might fix the problem!

Liveaboard sinking This happened few days ago. Daytrip boat caught fire Yesterday These are starting to get quite frequent, unfortunately.

I would like to share my experience with the SEACAM Optical Precision Port (OPP) over the past 21 months. But before I go any further, let me declare upfront that I am a SEACAM ambassador - so I am obviously somewhat biased by my experience with what I regard as a truly exceptional company. That said, I also try to be as honest, objective and rational as I can. So the link below are my considered thoughts on the usability of the OPP in a very wide coimbination of locations and subject matter. Having used both the Nauticam WACP-1 (5 years) and the WACP-C (3 years) before making the switch to SEACAM, I believe that I have quite a lot of hands-on experience with water corrected optics. Based on that experience, for me the OPP is a truly exceptional example of optical engineering that has been thoughfully and carefully designed to solve two of the key problems underwater photographers face. Namely taking images in water with lenses designed to operate in air (different refractive indexes) and traveling with our equipment. I personally consider the OPP to be the ultimate travel lens as it does so many things so well in a relatively small package Since I joined Waterpixels several people have reached out to me for comments on the OPP, but I wanted to wait till SEACAM had completed their thorough and very objective testing of the system in their purpose built test tank. Pixel peeping of images taken on the fly underwater is not objective as it only provides an indication of the optical performance. SEACAM have really quantified what the OPP can do optically under very controlled circumstances with that testing and I highly encourage you to follow the link in my article and download the results of that testing. Which, in a word is impressive and fully reinforces my impressions from 21 months of field testing. Here's the link: https://indopacificimages.com/ultimate-underwater-travel-lens/

That is very generous! I will take you up on the offer, perhaps with two or three items if it's not too much trouble. An n100 and n120 extension ring. Ideally these can survive 100m. And perhaps a float? Like my HF-1 strobe float. I would be happy if that survived to 40 meters. I have dove these a bit over 30 meters. They are not as thick as the rings and ports, but they are no loss should they fail as well. I will message you for details. Cheers, Dave

Perhaps not a concern, but how strong is that cold shoe mount on an acrylic AOI housing? I am not confidence inspired by those even on my Nauticams to support anything heavy which might be prone to getting a whack. I might favor a cross bar solution.

If you want to send it to me, I can easily test it to the 100m that the Nauticam stuff is rated to.

@Adventurer In the case of my Nikon 60mm and Zen dome example above, there is no loss of focus range since the MFD of the lens is only a couple of millimeters beyond the dome. However, in other scenarios in which proper dome positioning involves placing the dome significantly closer than the lens's MFD, a small amount of close focus range can be lost. But you don't use a macro dome if you want to maximize magnification. It's for improving edge sharpness and/or restoring the air FOV so you can better shoot slightly larger macro subjects. I haven't tried using a diopter on the macro lens in these scenarios, but it seems like it could maybe work as long as you don't lose too much of your far focus ability.

Okay, one thing bothers me, if I start mixing housings and ports from different manufacturers. I'd need to know each manufacturer's distance from camera lens mount to housing lens port mount. I don't even know what that distance is called so I have difficulties searching for that information. Is it easily obtainable? For example, Isotta has a port for using WWL-C as stated above, and Isotta ports can apparently be used on S&S housings, but if the distance from camera to port hole is different between Isotta and S&S I expect to run into trouble. Same if I want to use S&S ports on Nauticam housing. Not saying it would be insurmountable but definitely something that needs to be handled.