All Activity

Snake mackerel (Gempylus serpens) maybe? The good folks on the FB blackwater photo group would know for sure.

Shot during blackwater in Anilao Phillipines. April 2026. Thanks.

I reached out to UWTech and they responded that they have not tested their triggers with the Maxi at this time (and they were nice and prompt in the reply!)

These are all fantastic images! Good job mastering the new gear. My one bit of feedback is that using a snoot can create a sort of "stage spotlight" effect where you see the ring of light. Sometimes this is a nice effect, but it can also be distracting. What I often like to do is to use the second flash at lower power to create a bit of fill lighting at an offset angle. You still get separation from the background with the snoot as the main light source, but a more graduated fall off of the light into the background. It looks a bit less artificial this way. Example: Atom Snoot as key light, MF-2 as fill light: Nikon Z8 w/Nikkor 105mm lens, MFO-1, f11@1/200s iso125, Backscatter Atom with snoot, MF-2 strobe

Thanks for this nice pictures

Hi All, Only third time posting on here, a few weeks back from a 20 day dive trip with K2 in Lembeh with a total of 60 dives and 67h 24 mins underwater having recently experienced a flood in my very old omd-em10 rig I had just taken the opportunity to upgrade to the A7r V with nauticam housing and backscatter atom strobes with snoots, just shooting the 90mm macro currently so this trip was a good opportunity to start learning the camera (I can only learn so much using it on land). But I came back with what I think are some reasonable shots. Would love some feedback!

Perhaps this setting prevented the optical sensor from being active for me. Menu->Setup Menu (yellow wrench)->Screen/viewfinder display (3)->Screen

Hey man, I was wondering what you ended up choosing and how it performed for you with the whales. I also have the Sony 16–25mm f/2.8 G II and I'm heading to French Polynesia this summer. I'm torn between bringing the WACP-C or getting the 230mm dome port. I'd love to hear what you went with and whether you were happy with the results.

Thanks for looking into this issue! Since my Nauticam housing unfortunately doesn't have a button for the display illumination, I have to use a different button – which doesn't make any difference in principle. What I've discovered is that the small optical sensor directly below the viewfinder is responsible for automatic detection. If this sensor is covered (in viewfinder mode!), 'display off' doesn't work. I've found a workaround, albeit a bit cumbersome: If I set the screen/viewfinder display to Auto2 and then switch the lever on the Nauticam housing to LCD, I can activate 'display off' because the optical sensor below the viewfinder seems to be deactivated.

Hello all, I'd be interested in sourcing a N100 Flat Port 45 (especially one with a plug to remove the focus knob, which I don't need), shipping to Japan. I plan on 3D printing the zoom gear, but if you have it, why not. Thank you!

Maybe I could try to ask if it's possible to pair the flip system available for the rectangular N50 port, with a bayonet mount, so I could have the best video option from the L10, and also the interchangeability for the wet lens I don't know if with the rectangular flip system is not usable in combo with the wide lens, maybe because of a different distance of where the wet lens sit from the ports, or if it's just a physical size limitations, that do not allow flipping the wide lens. But if it's possible to combo the square flip lens + a bayonet mount adaptor, I would have solved my problem, having the possibility to change between wide, macro and no lens with no vignetting at all zoom distance I will ask to Nauticam if this monster is realizable and update here for future aspirant Frankenstein 😬

Yes, this is the LX100 housing / ergonomics problem I was mentioning above unfortunately (on the LX10 I use a double-flip, as it doesn't need ports). I hope LX100 users have a solution for you, as the L10 housing design seems to work the same in this aspect. The L10 does 4K up to 120fps and higher bitrates, the R50 does not, and you'll need the R50 V (video variant) to get 4K 60fps. However, with the L50 you get access to Canon's RF lens ecosystem, which is a big plus for expanding what you do with the camera.

Yes that's right, one of our members here, Wolfgang ( @Architeuthis ) uses the 8-15 with the Sony 2x and likes the setup. The downside is it's not as sharp as the bare lens, but if I recall it is about as sharp as a WACP-C, there's a thread on here about using this setup. You mount Sony 2x on body, then Metabones then the 8-15. Very flexible. I use an OM-1 in combination with a Canon 8-15, with the crop factor there is no teleconverter and I get the same zoom range.

Done. The button label looks like a cartoon call-out. BTW, before seeing this I did not know you are responsible for the new vid show, thought it might be Matt's!

I'll have to try to replicate that tomorrow (it's already quite late here in Germany 😴), but I'm just realizing that my nauticam case doesn't have a button for the display backlight.😐

I set the illumination button to 'display off'. It works with the camera out of housing, but in housing it does not work. I tested it in a Marelux housing. FYI, I have never mapped to this button or used this button via my housing before. Next, I tried covering up the entire back of the camera to see if it was linked to the eye sensor in the Viewfinder. Using the camera illumination button worked fine. I then started fiddling with the housing illumination button. Activating the housing button pushed a lever down that didn't even look close to where the button was on the camera. I wiggled the lever, and it actually rotated easily and was not even secured. I pulled the lever to the top, and it clicked into place. Tested again with the camera in housing, and it worked. The camera lock button lever behaved the same way. Looks like both those levers were never positioned and locked in place. I never noticed because I had never used those housing buttons before. Perhaps the Nauticam housing has the same lever design? Photos showing the lever before and after I rotated the levers up in place.

Hello JayceeB, I use the LCD/VF switch on top of my Nauticam housing to switch between the viewfinder and the display – this is very convenient because I don't have to go into the camera menu or assign a shortcut button. However, I practically never use the display anyway... My 'problem' is that I can't assign the 'display off' function to any button, as the R5 seems to detect that something is near the viewfinder. Perhaps you could try assigning the 'display off' function to a button on your camera. I'm very curious to see if that might work for you.

Hi Wahrmut, I have the R5. Here is how I set it up for Viewfinder/Display. Menu->Setup Menu (yellow wrench)->Screen/viewfinder display (3)->Screen Menu->Custom Functions->Customize buttons(3)->Assign the * (AE Lock button) to 'Switch between VF/screen'. I customized the * (AE Lock button) to toggle between screen and viewfinder, but you could choose another button instead.

@Tom Kline - there is a correct text button on the bottom right side of the page, where you can report mistakes etc. Corrections are really important in making it valuable - so do report anything you see. I've not had a good read yet. I am hopeful that Eric will also expand it over time too. But I know it was a lot of work for him to get it this far.

A serious blast from the past! An actual table of contents for an internet thing!!! Nota bene, a table of contents is something one typically found near the beginning of books. Claude, however, is far from perfect. See the Seacam entries at https://wetpixel.echeng.com/companies/seacam/. "Both (viewfinders) were available for all Seacam housings..." The Seacam Silver housing for the NIkon F5 was offered in versions that did not take the interchangeable finders but instead had a flat window for use with an F5 with an Action-finder attached (DA-something, I know because I have one). As well, the remote system started a few years earlier before it was shown at DEMA (2007 as reported in the Wiki) because I was able to order my D2X housing (late 2004 or early 2005) with it installed (ordered retroactively during the 9-month wait it took). I seem to recall the remote was announced alongside the Seacam housing for one of the Canon 1D cameras (either 2 or 3 series). When I saw that on Wetpixel I called Liz at SeacamUSA and asked about adding it to my housing as well as the big question for me: Would it be able to be used with longer cables than the lousy 1.5 meters of the RS remote control (which I had at the time). The answer was yes and has been at the core of my digital UWP.

That could be an interesting option as well. So if I understand correctly, by adding the 2x converter, you get a fisheye effect on the wide end and roughly a 28mm equivalent on the long end, right? What are the downsides? Is it mainly that the lens isn't native, so autofocus performance might suffer a bit, or are there other compromises? I do usually prefer to stick with same lens brand haha, but open to suggestions. Out of curiosity, what setup are you shooting with?

This is a fantastic resource. Kudos to Eric Cheng for building it! I’ve just started exploring. One thing I don’t yet understand is how to find the articles that are referenced. The links jump to the footnote, then the footnote jumps back to the link not the article. Any tips appreciated.

n85 Extension Rings:

Aloha and welcome @kdgonzalez

Aloha and welcome @Don Silcock !