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I would like to pimp my system with colored T-knobs for my clamps: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1595469-REG/ultralight_ac_tk_sr_splashy_red_t_knob_for.html However, I am not sure if they would fit on my clamps from H2OTools: unterwasser-fotografieren.deH2o-Tools Kugel-Klammer Schwarz - unterwasser-fotografier...BlitzarmAny idea if they would fit? I am not sure if the H2O-Tools are maybe metric (ultralight are us/inch) or have another thread pitch)? Thanks for your help, Jens

He would have to release vacuum and then turn the switch off. Upon rearming the circuit with the "switch" of some sort he envisages then restore the vacuum. But he would not have to open the housing. I just open my housing in the evening, give everything a once over and then close it back for the next day and pull vac about 30 minutes before departure or when convenient. But, I recharge between dives or at lunch as needed without having to open the housing on the boat or a sandy beach or some other undesirable place.

I have not seen one, but i have the lens and can knock out a gear for it tomorrow. I will post a link once i get the model uploaded. For Nauticam.

I have the same trigger and it last for a long time. I use manual and not sure on the power setting (fairly low i guess), but i did like one week in a resort (3 dives per day) and the led flashed still over 75%. Using TTL or max power probably uses more. My new one uses also way more battery compared to previous (NA-A1ii vs. NA-A7RV). But i dont think magnetic switch for power works, i think the circuit needs to sense vacuum forming, instead of just turning on with vacuum already there. I might be wrong of course.

Ok, so this is a platform where we sought CC - constructive criticism :-) right? So please dont hate me :-): OMG THIS IS TERRIBLE DESIGN!! The drag on that thing must be insane! Plus I cant imagine doing angle shots with the buoyancy distribution like this either. So that was the ugly part and now the constructive part :-) A good balanced rig which does not fight should have all major mass elements neutrally buoyuant in all directions if possible. The camera, the monitor, the lights. The Lights - Keldan sells - and it may be possible to make your own - buoyancy collars. I did this for my wife's phone rig but the designs are numerous. Then the camera - and the monitor as these kinds - unlike these in (nauticam) housings which are neutral (or even positive) - they are negative 300-750g - so we need to compensate them as a whole. And so what is the purpose of these rails anyway? To achieve posterior balance during capture to limit up and down wobble which these short body long nose rigs are prone to. To achieve this we dont need to add weights. We need to add neutrally buoyant MASS. It is the velocity of the mass which will make rig stable in that direction. Side to side wobble we manage with handles but up/down? Yes that's what adding mass along longitudal axis will do. The housing with the dome port should be front light - less with glass or more with acrylic. So what is the best way to counter this without adding extra weight? Place your monitor on the port behind the handles axis yes? If you still need balance weight after this which I suppose you do depending on the monitor weight and really want the rails then I recommend to focus on my bracket above and the rail - it is carbon fiber 15mm from the video rigs and they also do aluminium. These weighs next to nothing in the water so if you 3D print (or just use a strong plastic plate) a base plate underneath the camera and attach the rails to that plate underneath your cameta you get the suport structure to which ends you can further add floats or weights as needed and achieve desired longitudinal stability. All that with minimum amount of added weight so you dont have to compensate it with these insane floaties. What could also help to make the body/monitor combo neutral would be a buoyancy plate attached to the monitor as some monitors are very heavy. This one above is weefine which is like -300g but some of them ale like -750g which would be better to address with plate. Because without it the monitor weight up top will fight at angles. I have seen monitors mounted in the back - like Nauticam mount they sell - but I find this problematic as it obscure access to buttons so when changing frame rates of CWB or anything its just not the best. Yet another food for thought is that by using a monopod or handle attached to lens port collar you will get desired stability as the up/down wobble is mainly caused by location of housing handles at the lateral axis of housing and so by spreading the two control points - your hands - longitudinally will eliminate this problem - provided you dont need to operate zoom ring during the shot. Good luck in solving the never ending (for me anyway) buoyancy puzzle :-)

Does anyone know of a good model for a Nauticam focus gear to fit the Nikon 105 Z macro lens?

I don't have any pictures with me, but I use DIY Dyneema soft shackles attached to the top clamps. Strong enough they will never break, won't corrode or damage anything and you can cut them if needed. Extremely cheap as well. I have a boltsnap attached to one side and an empty one on the other.

I'm likely getting the Kraken M16 so I can just leave my housing under vacuum for most of a trip. As I've found recently though the Nauticam leak sensor will rip through a set of batteries in a few days if left on. I am thinking perhaps of a magnetic reed switch to allow it to be turned on and off without opening the housing?

We put this up yesterday. Neither of us have tried the camera - but we were online when the Sony announcement video came out - and were going to discuss it between ourselves - so recorded an episode about it.

Ha! I went on a Amboseli Kenya Safari in the dry season and let me tell you it was DUSTY! I needed to clean off everything every night, and don't even think about changing a lens in the field.

That did it. Sent you a test message.

On a lighter note, This guy doesn't need a rinse tank 🤣 https://www.instagram.com/reel/DXEJuNWDhaL/?igsh=MXVvc2oyY2ZmandjMg==

It should be ok now

Hi Dave, let me check Ciao

Like with the release of the A1 II Sony is putting four years between the high end cameras so A1 users who passed on the A1 II will not be seeing an A1 III until their cameras are quite dated. That is not necessarily a bad thing many folks are still using DSLR's like D850 and EOS 5D. Having used Sony A1 and Sony A1 II extensively I can assure you that the II is an upgrade over the I for U/W users, the question is will that difference be enough to make you want to switch. Sony A7R V users will be in the same spot of deciding if the extra AF and shutter speeds along with a verity of other improvements outweighs the cost of a new body, housing and spare batteries. Sony is the top contender in the U/W space with four great contenders the A1 I/II, A7R V/VI, A7C II/R and the often overlooked A7 V an excellent camera at 33MP.

Regarding mounting the strobes directly to the housing grips this is something I started doing decades ago with 4/3 cameras and the Olympus 8mm fisheye lenses. The secret is to keep the strobes well behind the small (100/140mm) dome port. If you have a set of a bit longer clamps this becomes easer. Advantages are allowing you to have less drag in strong currents, getting in small spaces like moving through a wreck or cave, quickly moving between landscape and portrait orientations and more. Downsides are less ability to configure strobes to where you may want light coming from different angles, some like buoyancy arms to offset the weight of the housing/port system and more. A photo of my most used configuration with eight and six inch arms is attached. Eight inch on the housing coupled with six inch to the strobes using Ultralight clamps.

Mailbox is full, but i don't want to empty it. Can this limit be raised, or can you suggest a solution so o don't lose data? Export perhaps?

The new Canon 24-50 is very close to the Sony FE 20-70 F/4 for full frame with the main difference being the Canon is internal zoom. The both have the same minimum focus distance and magnification so the results should be very close. I have used the Sony 20-70 extensively with Marelux 180, 210 and 230 ports. In my tests the 140mm port it was a bust in terms of corners and not really recommended. I have attached the front page of the review I did (in UWP back issues) along with photos at 20mm and close to 50mm (45ish) to give an idea of the range, both with the 180mm port. The Marelux 210mm acrylic port fits into the same case as the 180mm port and is a little bit lighter and works better for splits so it is my travel dome. The PZ feature on the Canon 20-50 saves the cost of a zoom gear and it has worked well for me on the Sony FE 16-35 PZ. Regarding use behind a flat port with Nauticam/Marelux wet lenses this remains to be seen. More likely to work with dry lenses like WACP-1 and Aquista 135D which is coming soon.

Yes I used it last week, and will again tonight. Works fine. I made it for someone who requested it for cold water use. It certainly helps.

Dave, Did you get a chance to test out the Atom Knob? Even for warm water, it can be difficult to turn the knob especially with fat fingers. Adrian

Nice idea for my a7V Nauticam housing. Just still need the same for my s-TURTLE 3 SMART TTL trigger and housing can stay closed forever :) Has anyone experience on the turtle trigger battery duration ? I have still only a few dives with the setup, so difficult to figure out...

I can only confirm the posts above how useful a 45° viewfinder in combination with EFV of the camera is. No problem with image review UW. The seldom problem I have is, when I intend to make a photo directly 90° downwards (e.g. for "circular" panning). Then I can use the "C1" custom button on my Sony A7R5 to toggle to the screen, but it is better not to use the 45° viewfinder on the rig in such a case, as it is an obstacle for viewing the screen...

Welcome aboard! We hope you enjoy the forum! Ciao

I have a 45-deg viewfinder too. When reviewing images on the back of the camera on DSLR, I had to rotate the camera forward just to see the display under the viewfinder. Reviewing through the EVF is much better, especially for supermacro critters that are tough to find in the first place.

I second your EVF + 45deg experience. Its amazing and the real mirrorless super power. I use a Nikon Z8 and can easily do 3 dives and 600 photos with about 25-50% charge remaining.