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Camera & Housing and tray asking $700USD Camera// -Condition 8.5/10 -Panasonic LX 100, Leather Carrying Case, Charger / Flash and Extra Battery Housing// - Condition 8/10 - -Nauticam NA­LX100 Housing for Panasonic LX100 - Nauticam Flexitray Plate II W with Left Handle (with 2 Tripod Holes) -Nauticam Adjustable Right Handle II (for Easitray II & Flexitray II) -2x Nauticam M8 Strobe Mounting 1 Inch Ball Everything works great no structural issues - Has some discoloration on housing and housing components ————— Macro Compact Lenses and accessories -$150 USD- Nauticam M67 Flip Diopter Holder Standard Port // Condition 8/10 - $300 USD- Nauticam Compact Macro Converter 1 CMC­1 // Condition 8/10 - No scratches very small saltwater blemish on far edge, not noticeable Lighting: -$500 USD -2x Sea & Sea YS­D2 Strobe // Condition 9/10: -$75USD -10Bar Macro Snoot Set with Aiming Laser for YSD2 // Condition 8 /10 - $250 USD -2x Sola 2500 lumen video lights + chargers // Condition 8 /10 Wide Angle Wet Kit - $1225USD - $1000USD -Nauticam WWL-1 Wet Wide Lens 130° for 28mm lenses // Condition 9.5/10 - $150USD -Nauticam N50 Bayonet Short Port for Wet Wide Angle Lens // Condition 8 /10 - $75USD -Nauticam M67 to Bayonet Mount Converter for Wet Lens (WWL­1) // Condition 8 /10 Hardware: -$50 USD- Joby Gorillapod Focus + ballhead X Tripod Bundle (Black/Grey) (Condition 9/10

I shoot quite a bit of macro, not a Sony user however I think I can offer some thoughts. When you are life size, your depth of field is very small - around about 1mm, so it stands to reason that you need to be able to compensate for the fact your subject might be moving, you may not be totally stable and surge and current might intrude into the picture causing both you and your subject to move. My regular UW shooting is done in Botany Bay south of Sydney, this site is inside the heads but rather exposed to ocean swells which can produce varying degrees of surge and also subject to tidal currents, one of the subjects there is the pygmy pipehorse and swings slightly out of sync with the surge. My technique with that is continuous AF, holding down the control as required while framing and waiting for it to swing into position. The AF chases and swings around quite a bit as the subject moves out from under the single small AF point. The trick to me seems to be patience waiting until the subject is in position then activating AF and if needed half pressing the shutter to engage IS which helps hold the AF point on target. The shot is taken when I can see positively that the AF has grabbed focus. The point is that IS can account for side to side, up and down movement, bu the AF needs to deal with our back and forth movement, so anything you can do to minimise this will be a great help. How well can you hover? DO you use a pointer or grab a safe handhold on bare rock to stabilise? You talk about moving off target is this because you/the subject moved or are you saying the camera decided that another object was better to focus on? I used to use C-AF plus tracking but have reverted to C-AF without tracking using the smallest AF point, then it's up to me to stay on the target and I find I can make this work, certainly don't get every frame sharp, but what I get is acceptable.

Thanks for the inquiry, Andrew! I’ll consider breaking up the package in the new year if it doesn’t sell by then. Let me do some thinking on individual items and I’ll get back to you.

video https://www.instagram.com/reel/DSM3oKpk8X8/?igsh=MXQyY2ZlbGhzNDlkeQ==

The smartphones Android & Iphone they also have a new AOI underwater case, with battery, mouse and shutter. i suspect this case might able to accomodate some SSD. Reference AOI UH-PU1 Videos https://www.instagram.com/reel/DSTlozHmMZe/?igsh=MXA4aHl6cmFqb3VkZg== https://www.instagram.com/reel/DSREsH7gR9p/?igsh=ZGs5Y215b29kMDY4

Would you sell the focus ring separately? If so, how much?

I have it with the 100mm Sony macro (and other lenses like 70-200 f4 macro) on my A7RV. It is very easy to reproduce.

For some reason, i seem to have this exact same thing. A1ii+100mm. Shooting nudis, initial focus on rhinopore and then it just buggers off to grain of sand or a spot on nudi. Didnt have any of this on A7RV+90mm, always spot on. Maybe mods can break this into own thread?

Thanks for the link! It will provide me with good entertainment for this evening. 😁

Beginning of 2026 AOI will have 3 new camera Housing for actions cameras with Quick release Built-in for Wide Angle and Macro, reference AOI UH-ACT in one of the videos is visible that the housing is able to use UMG-01 Magnifier lcd viewfinder, and according to the advertise at the show no more vignetting underwater. Available & prices from Fev/March 2026 video here from hong kong show https://www.instagram.com/reel/DSPCOYZEQTg/

The Canon trigger is finally ready! Introducing the SMART 3 Canon TTL trigger – the 4th member of the SMART 3 family, delivering full TTL control for Canon MILC cameras, designed specifically for underwater photographers. ⚙️ Key features • Manual / TTL mode • Front & Rear Curtain Sync • HSS (High Speed Sync) tested up to 1/8000 s • Continuous shooting up to 19 fps • Stroboscopic mode: 2–10 flashes per exposure (1/10–2 s) All settings are stored inside the trigger, so your system is always instantly ready underwater. 💡 Strobe compatibility Control today’s most popular underwater strobes via optical cable or wired connection, including: Backscatter HF-1, AOI UIS-PI, INON S & Z series, Sea&Sea D3, Marelux Apollo III V2 & Apollo S, Retra Pro X & Pro Max. The setup software is continuously updated, expanding the list of TTL-capable strobes. 🔋 SMART 3 family – proven premium design • User-replaceable battery with 3× the capacity of SMART 1–2 • USB-C charging & configuration • Reinforced switches and robust LED / sync output • SMART button for battery status check: 📷 Tested with Canon cameras Canon R3, R6, R6 II, R6 III, R5, R5 II and M6 👉 Learn more: www.trt-electronics.com

Yep, updates by Nikon have been pretty impressive of late. Even the venerable D500 got a firmware update a short while ago.

GP-TUNE Plugin 🫡🫡🫡

Several mistakes in this response, First WWL-1B needs the Nauticam bayonet mount adapter NOT the Marelux mount for Aquista lenses. The NA-adapter will work on any of the Marelux flat ports with 67mm mount. With the Canon RF-S 18-45mm used with R50 you would use Marelux flat port 32 and have full zoom through in APS-C. With EF 16-35mm F/2.8 L III you need Marelux flat port 87+20mm extension NOT port 97. With Aquista 110 the same two port configurations are used except with the Marelux bayonet mount and they will also work with the Aquista 130. Also be aware that just like the Nauticam wet wide lenses the EF 16-35 will have a limited zoom range starting at 28mm, each of the lenses on the Aquista ports will start at 28mm and very depending on zoom range. Aquista lenses are now 130 & 110 to reflect the max AOV. Photos with the Aquista 130 prototype (no float collar) both full frame at 28mm and vertical at 44mm using the Sony 28-60mm, Marelux Apollo S stones in TTL. Paradise Reef, Bali Indonesia.

Try calling Reef or Backscatter, they still sell Fantasea stuff, Reef still sells your lens. Bill

Nauticam WACP-1B has N100 and N120 port mounts so if you are concerned about the 3mm you could use the Marelux NA-N100 too Marelux 5" port adapter which is 17mm rather than 20mm. In the Sony system I also suspect that Marelux Aquista 130 and 110 will work with the Sony 28-70mm kit zoom using flat port 32 and a 20mm extension. Photos with the Aquista 130 prototype (no float collar) both full frame at 28mm and vertical at 44mm using the Sony 28-60mm, Marelux Apollo S stones in TTL. Paradise Reef, Bali Indonesia.

Actually I also had a long period, where I thought, I might be missing out on something, not owning a WAPC-C or other Nauticam Water Contact Optic. They are just so heavily hyped and raved by various (officially not paid) talking heads on the internet. The death sentence for WAPC-C was this very honest review by Interceptor121 : Interceptor121 Photography & Video WorkshopsNauticam WACP-C vs WWL-1I am conscious that a post like this is destined to create some stir, however it reflects over one month of testing of the two Nauticam water contact optics with my A1 and summarizes my conclusion …

Hi Susa, I replied you in the other thread and as I wrote, I'm not a Sony user and this is a very specific situation. try to open a specific thread so that other users notice it and can give you their contributions. Ciao

Hello Susa, I must premise that although I try to keep up to date with the new cameras released, I am not a Sony user, in fact I have a Panasonic camera which, at today's pace, can be considered almost vintage 😁 From my experience, there are two factors at play: On YouTube you will find many strong opinions about the fact that the AF of X is better than Y and that Y and Z are on par. IMHO it is a very, too simple generalization, in fact I would say almost incorrect. It is true, there are differences between the models which are less and less evident with each release. But what many shilltubers forget is that the camera never works alone but with a lens attached. And here a world of differences opens up. Too easy to see 99% of AF tests with the youtuber running back and forth in the backyard checking if their big face is in focus. BTW tests done with the kit lens or the most expensive native 24-70mm. In fact here users often specify which lens they are talking about because underwater photography and filming are extreme and very niche situations. An example: There is no Sony camera that can work with the Sony FE 50mm f/2.8 Macro, whose slowness in AF is known. The situation is very different with the 90mm or the new 100mm or the Sigma 105mm. I'm sure other more expert users than me can add other relevant examples. So two users with the same camera and different lenses might have a completely different user experience. If, as you wrote, you also want to dedicate yourself to video, know that 99% of AF system tutorials and reviews are valid only for photography. All cameras, when you switch from photo to video, have menus that can be completely different and a lot of features you have in photo mode you don't have in video mode. Sad but true. the reasons are purely technical and every brand is different. Moreover the capacity of the lens motors to follow continuous AF in video is put even more to the test. Surely in the forum there are threads that talk specifically about the best settings for Sony and underwater AF. In the meantime, I have found this: If you want, try to open a specific thread so that other users notice it and can give you their contributions. Ciao

Hi Kevin, welcome aboard! We hope you enjoy the forum. Ciao

Then you least cost route would be buying the WWL-1B + Aquista Mount: 55803 and the Macro Port 97 31302 ..both on stock with a dealer near you. Sorry, I did not see that you are from Thailand and thought you were Czech. 🤦‍♂️😅 I have also looked into Aquista 110 there and asked a ton of questions about it. The mount is identical to WWL-1 requirements and you should be able to plug your WWL-1B into the front. I am quite curious how this old lens will perform behind Aquista 110 or WWL-1B. Please report back with impressions and results if you will go that road.

Thanks, I have read your article before. That’s what put the Eckos on my radar. Thanks for the response. Definitely selling the Eckos with that photo and the Roatan pics.

Hi everyone, My name is Kevin from Taiwan. I started my underwater photography journey in 2022 with a TG-6, then upgraded to a Nikon Z8 in 2023. I mainly focus on macro photography, frequently visiting Romblon and Dauin. I am planning a trip to Raja Ampat in Feb 2027 and look forward to seeing something special there. Hope to dive with you someday! Best, Kevin

My several dive buddies who shoot with the TG find the RC useful (Backscatter MF-2) and from my observing their photos I think they are getting very good results. What I am not sure about is that the results are really any better than with standard mimic TTL. But they like it and are sold on it. And best I can tell the Echo strobes do support the RC-TTL. One of my regular buddies uses a Backscatter MF-2 in RC mode to slave an older YS-D2 non RC strobe. And it works! His rig is not shielded so the YS strobe fires on mine backlighting my subject, at times useful, other times (most times) quite annoying 😁. This wide angle photo (of me) taken with the Ikelite Echo strobes, Ikelite housed R100, TTL (D.Haas), clearly they suffice!