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I wondered that.

Filming using the 5.6k 60p recording, could help with the post editing to gaming some zoom, instead of recording in 4k? I would lose the 120p available in 4k, but even now, with the GoPro, almost never film in more than 60p, since a lot of video does not need more than 1/2 slow

Keep in mind that the LX100 above has a small crop in 4K as well, though not as marked as the LX10 examples I'd posted - On the LX100 I the lens became 26-81 mm equivalent in 4K, and a 30-94 mm in 4K the LX100 II (vs. 36-108mm on a 1" sensor on the LX10, which is what made it so great macro video). 4K on the L10 is uncropped, which is great for wide angle, but will mean smaller subjects in the frame for macro. On paper, it's closer to the LX100 mI than mII. And as the LX100 mI example above shows, you can always export to 1080p from 4K and crop in for extra magnification. If you're posting on social media you should be exporting to 1080p anyway, so even on an uncropped sensor like the L10, you still have plenty of room to play with.

Yes, totally agree with studying seafloor topography. Also, one way to prepare for BW it is to go during the day and look for current-lines on the surface - scout an area with interesting topography, and go check it out during the day, looking for areas that concentrate plankton - clear surface current lines and debris agglomerations can be a good indicator, even during the day. Always take GPS points (Navionics or similar app for instance) so you can return to points. Once you find a place that looks promising can then go in with a mask and snorkel and see how it looks, or even do a bluewater dive to scout it. There can be lots of interesting subjects during the day, just more difficult to spot and film. On the downline, read this article if you haven't: https://codelift-managed.xray-mag.com/content/getting-blackwater It has a clear illustration of Mike Bartick's downline assembly: I've recently returned from an assignement assisting a Japanese blackwater photographer in the Maldives. Technically, we scouted locations during the day, and did bluewater dives to confirm. The downline didn't have a pumpkin, but a smaller fishing buoy into which a 2m flagpole with a flag was inserted. It was well balanced so the flagpole stayed upright, and we had a flasher light on the the flag to help the boat follow it at night. This buoy + mast unit was attached to a secondary white fishing buoy about a little smaller than a football (volleyball size?) to which the downline was connected Be careful with the size of the buoy you use for the downline - a bigger buoy is more visible but can drift faster as it catches wind and acts like a sail - you don't want it to drift faster than the divers. The flagpole helped minimize buoy size while staying visible even if it's a little choppy. You also don't need a lot of weight on the line either, we used two kg or so and it was fine. Our line didn't use powerful lights, but they were setup as twin sets. We had flashers (strong flashing lights) near the surface and on the line itself for visibility. On bluewater dives we ony used the flashers on the line (be careful, it's more easy to lose the line on a bluewater dive than blackwater). We also tied small flasher lights on the tank valves at night for visibility, and used our strong narrow beam spotting lights to shoot a line signal in the sky on surface for pickups. At the end of the dive, it's nice to mark the GPS location so you can check how much you've drifted and in what general direction (can be complex) - for us it ranged from a 300m to 8km drift on a single dive. hope this helps! cheers

Depth is a relative and non-essential factor; instead, you need to study the seafloor topography of the area where you plan to dive. The 75 cm arm is unnecessary. Dive lights must be securely fastened to the buoy line, using one of the many available solutions. Furthermore, for your safety, it is crucial to check the currents at the dive site: it is easy to get lost if there is a current, especially when you are focused on taking photos after finding a subject. The buoy must be highly visible, even if a skipper is following you. Always carry backup lights with you. Overly powerful lights are not necessarily important: 5000-7000 lumens are more than enough. Finally, make sure the battery life is sufficient to last the entire dive.

Someone forgot to clear the lint trap filter? This is a very common cause of fires!

Thanks! They were very safety and fire conscious on Explorer too. My understanding was that the fire was caused by a 3-month old dryer. It was made by a well-known European appliance maker. In fact our apartment has several appliances of that brand. But no dryer…..

Hi all, I want to start doing blackwater diving in my hometown, we have the proper boat and the lights, but I'm not sure how to organize the lights line. We are planning to go to a site almost 100 metres depth and place a line with a big buoy on top, 25 meters long line with weights on the other end, and with an arm 75 cm long with a powerful light on each end every 5 meters. Our plan is to leave the line in the sea for a while and dive with the boat skipper following us close enough to take care of ourselves. Do you think is the right way ? or am I missing something ? It's our first time doing blackwater diving

Regarding housings for the new Sony A7R VI Marelux has developed a user installable (one) part change that will allow the A7R VI to be fully usable in the new Sony A7 V housing. This new housing ships with the latest updates which allow you to install the FlashFuel2100 which is both a manual flash trigger and battery bank which connects to the camera via USB-C greatly extending battery life. The FF2100 allows manual flash triggering up to 20FPS. The remote shutter module can also be added for remote camera triggering up to about 10 meters away. This housing retails for $3398.00 in the US. The upside to this housing is that with one part change you can have a 66.8MP primary camera with the excellent 33mp A7 V as a backup for extended travel.

My latest update on Marelux optics is that Aquista 135D will begin shipping in July, MacroView 60 will ship in June and the new 180 degree optical viewfinder has not yet been given a release date.

I make some pictures from the little scratch.

This is raising my hope! I would love to be able to produce a video like this!

We were on a 'sister ship' the emperor virgo. We were dropped off at 7 the morning of the fire and only learned about it at a layover in Delhi. Just read that you were on that boat Tim. Glad that everyone came off it safely. Any idea what caused it yet? On the Virgo they were very safety and fire conscious.

Priceupdate: 1000 Euro for the Port

Priceupdate: 130 for the extension

This is what I got years ago with the LX100 (mark I) and CMC-1 I think on video. It's 4K that I cropped to Full HD and then stabilized.

Selling an AOI FLP‑06 flat port in solid working condition. The front element is glass. It has very light surface marks from normal use — they’re so faint I can’t get them to show in photos, and they do not appear in images underwater. No cracks, no deep scratches, and no issues with sealing surfaces. Includes: • Front cap • Rear cap • O‑rings (good condition) Condition Notes: • Light cosmetic marks only (too faint to photograph) • Optically clean in water • Mount interface smooth and secure • Always rinsed and stored properly Compatibility: Correct flat port for the Olympus 14–42 EZ and other AOI PEN‑mount flat‑port‑compatible lenses. (New price typically ~$199–$219.) Reason for sale: Reorganizing my port lineup. Price: $120 + shipping Located in San Antonio / Shavano Park, TX PayPal G&S preferred

Offer closed due to wrong title. New ad entered.

Thanks for the catch — you’re right. The FLP‑06 uses a glass front element, not acrylic. The marks I mentioned earlier are extremely light surface marks on the glass. They’re so faint I can’t get them to show in photos, and they don’t appear in images underwater. Everything else in the listing is accurate.

Accepting reasonable offers.

SOLD

Not this nice. There are tools extracting frames from video but many challenges - white balance, loss of detail, unsharp... but you can try and see.

I was thinking to test the Divevolk camera link with new Mission pro, the GP3 might be fast enough for 4K live preview (low latency) since is supported. https://community.gopro.com/s/article/GoPro-Quik-Live-Preview?language=en_US

The L10 has a different sensor (many say it's the GH7 sensor) without extra crop: f = 10.9 - 34mm (24 - 75mm in 35mm equivalent in 4:3, 3:2, 16:9) (28 - 88mm in 35mm equivalent in 1:1) https://www.panasonic.com/uk/consumer/cameras-camcorders/lumix-digital-cameras/premium-compact-cameras/dc-l10.specs.html

https://waterpixels.net/forums/topic/847-housed-smartphone-as-a-budget-monitor/#comment-3662 I actually bought this Divevolk solution after having terrible experience with Weefine's WED7 couple years ago. The problem with workarounds like divevolk is that they do not tend to work when one would need them. Forget about the lag, it's not that bad, the connection and the reliability of establishing it over and over - at least on Sony - is the real issue for me. So when I imagined logistics on a live aboard where most of my dives are with 3-4 dives per day checking the footage in between the dives - it was a real nightmare. Plus the element attached to the housing should be placed on acrylic effectively blocking access to camera monitor..