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You can also change the valve for a new one... I've good experience with the sentinel from Vivid. Small and not to expensive

So, There are two possibilities: the electronic circuit or the valve itself. I didn't understand if you had tested whether, regardless of the light, opening the latches made the back come off, or if you felt air escaping when pressing the valve. Anyway, now that you've removed the valve from the housing, try washing it. If you have access to someone who services regulators or a jeweler, try cleaning it in an ultrasonic bath. Otherwise, soak it in vinegar for a while and actuate the valve by hand several times. Then rinse it and run clean hot water through it first, followed by air. It might just be that the internal mushroom membrane is dirty. I wouldn't dare take it apart. To avoid to ruin the valve, you need that tool or something like that.

Hi David! I remember you from Wetpixels. A warm welcome to your new home. Great to have you with its - finally! I'm sure you'll see lots of familiar names on the forum. We hope you enjoy it. Best wishes

LOL, welcome to Waterpixels, Underwater with Art - love then name. Great to have you with us and I'm delighted to read that you've managed to find a peaceful outlet away from what, I'm sure, can be pretty difficult at times. We hope you enjoy the forum. Best wishes

Well they say I need to post an intro, so here it is. I’ve been a working diver for almost 20 Years with the RCMP in Canada. Underwater video has been our main method of documenting crime scenes with the occasional bit of photography. Although I have been a diver for 30 years it is only in the past few years have started enjoying underwater photography as a peaceful activity to take me away from the usual trauma associated with my underwater work. I am to the point of upgrading to my first mirrorless camera and want to take my photography to the next level, which for me is putting it into print. I have a small Portfolio of pictures from various vacations and in small format they look great, but I’d like to get to the point of having a size that would look good in the walls of my house. Well that’s more than enough about me. If you’ve read this far I gotta say I’m impressed. Cheers and safe diving everyone.

Just a couple of months ago I forgot to put the cap on and went in the water. Got to about 30 feet and realized my error, NA-R50 housing. Fortunately I did not flood. However, salt crystals formed despite my effort to wash it out. Two days later I had a problem pulling vacuum. The green light would come on but I would quickly get the flashing red light while I was at breakfast. I thought perhaps some salt crystals or debris had formed on the internal seal surface. I pulled a vacuum as best I could and quickly put distilled water in the cavity and pressed the release button several times. I repeated several times. I had placed a microfiber cloth inside to ensure no water got anywhere inside the housing. I completed the trip and have had no further issues and just recently did a pool dive, all functioned normally. If I could stay home long enough I would like to take it apart. Too expensive to replace but if I cannot then I guess off to Reef Photo it goes. YRMV. Edit to add, I forgot, after forcing the distilled water flush through the valve I used an air gun to gently dry it including pressing the release while allowing air to flow through it. It functioned the remainder of dives and is still seemingly fine. I too would like to know how to disassemble the valve.

No, it isn't the battery, which I have changed already. The vacuum seal is not working. Have just pulled it out and tried to see if anything is obvious. If anyone has pulled theirs apart to see the spring and little foot, it would be great to hear from you as it seems that this has to be the issue somehow - there's really nothing else that can go wrong. I can't find a detailed parts diagram or instructions on how to fix this online at all.

Steady red light is a low battery. If a fresh battery does not cure the problem something is possibly amiss with the circuit. Pull a vacuum and let it sit over night. Then release the vacuum, do you hear the valve equalizing? If so there is probably not a leak. If no vacuum, then I guess there is a leak. Change port and door O-rings perhaps, inspect the sealing surfaces.

it's losing vacuum. A friend has the tool so I'll grab that later today.

Hello everyone! I am David from the Canary Islands. I used to be fairly active in Wetpixel, and I hope I can be of help, and make use of the shared knowledge of the site.

The Backscatter HF-1 : https://www.backscatter.com/Backscatter-Hybrid-Flash-Underwater-Strobe-Video-Light-HF-1

Is it actually loosing vacuum or is the indicator broken? Pop the latches and see if the back comes off. It won't if there is still a vacuum.

I should start by saying I only shoot video with a GH5. I have the CMC-2 and I use it with a Leica 45mm or the Pana 14-42mm (a combination I hate). With the zoom, the situation is more complex because, as Chris said, the depth of field is a function of magnification, and many times I work at minimum zoom, almost to the edge of vignetting. With only the 45mm, the DOF is acceptable. This creature is about 9/10 mm long, and if you look at the grains of sand, you realize the DOF (1/100, f/10). I definitely could have gotten closer, but it was running like there was no tomorrow. However, with the 45 mm + CMC-2 even a Caprella sp. goes out of focus if it moves. Years ago, I had the opportunity to test the CMC-1, CMC-2, and Subsee +5 on several dives. The Subsee was the least powerful but easiest to use. The CMC-1 was the opposite. The deciding factor for me was the focus range (5 vs 10 cm). For video and the types of subjects I usually encountered, the CMC-1 was truly difficult to use, so I chose the 2, which was a bit of an all rounder. Now that I've gotten the hang of it, I wish I had the CMC-1, maybe something even more extreme. Naturally, only for static subjects.

Yes, other pumps and sucking do work but that's not my issue now. The valve itself isn't working to create a lasting vacuum. I can get the light to turn green but it won't stay green for more than 30 seconds, so it seems a problem I wouldn't want to take underwater as if that is leaking, maybe it would let water in, too? I'm trying to locally source the little tool to remove it but haven't had luck yet. Can anyone suggest an alternative tool so i can remove the valve and hopefully figure out what's wrong? Thanks!

Sucks to be you!

I’ve used my mouth a few times, takes several breaths but works as well. It’s just a bit awkward on the dive deck with everyone looking at you. 😆

You can create the seal by sucking the air out with your lips! The electronics are just a visual indicator with additional functionality of a leak alarm. No contraptions necessary.

As a "think out of the box" idea I wonder if a simple gauge pump to use if an electronic monitoring system dies might work in a pinch? I had the Nauticam system on my Nauticam NA-R50 housing and it worked fine.....My current low cost Ikelite DLM housing has a simple mechanical valve and uses this pump......I was initially reluctant but after months of use I like the simplicity of the whole arrangement..... Seal your housing, pump to a number (10 in my experience) and check the gauge in 5 - 30 minutes or even overnight. If the gauge reads the same number your housing is holding vacuum :) Granted it's not an electronic monitoring set up with LEDs, etc. but if traveling far away and your vacuum set up croaks I wonder how difficult it would be to create a seal on the hose and check your housing? Just a thought...... IkeliteVacuum Pump with GaugeA vacuum leak detection system allows you to check for leaks after assembling your housing and prior to entering the water. This can make the difference between a successful dive and a stressful situa

from an earlier post here.... #2: When using with 1.4X TC, N100 30 + Port 125 left 14mm space betwen the lens front to port glass. The magnification from our test is 1.8X, whereas the distance with 2XTC is 4mm (with ER30), max magnification is 2.7x. When using with SMC2, the max mag. is 2.4X, and 3,2X with SMC-2. It is recommended to use our SMCs. anyone has tried this nauticam set up with other 3rd party wet lens? i do not own a SMC...

https://waterpixels.net/forums/topic/1731-essential-spares-for-underwater-photography/#findComment-10796

@Dave_Hicks how frustrating!! Mine is the older model on my 7dmkii housing and I've never had an issue. This is definitely not a battery thing, unfortunately! The only thing I can think of is there is something with the vacuum valve itself so I'm trying to find info on troubleshooting/fixing it - hopefully a local friend has the tool so i can get started.

I have a cursed Nauticam Vacuum circuit as well. The battery lasts just a few sessions. I was constantly replacing the batteries and actually bought some rechargeable 2032 cells. So at least I am not throwing them away constantly. I never had this with my D800 or D850 housings, but the vacuum in the newer Z8 is just plagued. I was on a trip recently and I just gave up turning the circuit on. I pumped it and made sure the back would not come off releasing the latches after a few hours to test the negativity. The idiot light was just not that necessary. I bought a replacement vacuum circuit, but I have not gotten around to installing it. The rechargeable batteries are doing the trick, but I have a replace them after just a few days of diving. And I dive 2 or 3 days a week.

Thanks for the suggestions on a new pump. I've borrowed one for now and will try one of the wine ones. @Grantmac yup, it does work - have had to do that before! Felt ridiculous 😄 Sadly, the new battery is not the issue. I can, with a lot more effort than usual, get the light to go green, but it will not stay green so I've got a leak somewhere/the vacuum valve is wonky. Any ideas how to fix it/trouble shoot it? I've never pulled one apart/off the housing - is there a trick to it or things I should know? My vacuum pump was installed by Reef when I bought it so I don't think I have the little tool I see on the video - what can I use? thanks!

Which strobes do they fit?

In my experience the internal touch points start perishing before the buttons have problems. But that is based on buying used housings.