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My absolute pro tip: Don’t travel with a dedicated camera backpack. Use a regular backpack instead, for example an Eastpak. I’ve been using one for years. You won’t attract attention, and no one has ever asked about the weight. I carry my R5 housing, two strobes, the camera itself, several lenses, and diopters in it without any issues.

I’ve been using the nitecore BB blower for the past 4 years. Very happy with it as I do not need to wait for stuff to dry and you can really force out water from all the crevices.

I took a few minutes to draw 2 schematics to explain my previous post, hope it makes it clearer. I already tried this technique once (cf. above), but I think I'll try it again. I think my suggestion applies to split-shots done with scuba-diving equipments on (at the beginning or end of a dive), and NOT to the snorkeling use-case you're talking about JB, but I wanted to add my 2 cents :)

OK, thanks. Look forward to your AF update on the Tamron in due course. Regarding sharpness right across the frame with the Sony 100, I can't give you a clear answer, even though I went back to the original uncropped raws just now. My priority was the AF, and I assumed the sharpness question would fall into place. But because the AF target jumped away from what I intended, my sharpness reference point (always an eye, if there is one) is no longer accurate. So I have to look for what appears to be the sharpest point in the image and compare that with the far corners. And even then, perhaps the AF had not been properly acquired, so there may be no useful comparison. Best I can say at the moment is 'OK' into the corners (i.e. better than a flat port), but overall sharpness doesn't jump out like it does with the Sony 50 and 140 dome. I hope that changes if I get the AF sorted! At least I got some keepers, which is more than I can say I got with the 90 macro and MFO-1. I have just acquired a Nauticam 37122 4" WA port (as per Alex Mustard 'curved port' video quoted on another thread). I struggled a bit developing specs for it (Nauticam didn't bother to answer my query about the radius), but have firmed up on an estimate of 110mm outside dome radius, which makes sense as it would be the same as the 180 dome and possibly the 8.5" dome. But applying this radius to the port length suggests that Alex using a 16mm extension with that port and 50 macro means it is still quite a long way mis-aligned (my estimates suggest 45mm extension for the 50 macro with this port). Although he also said a longer extension was better for optimal sharpness, without saying how long! Anyway I have ordered 30 and 40 extensions which I think should cover the 50, 100 and also part of the 20-70 range (from about 40-70), using the 37122. OK, the 20-70 isn't macro, but it does a remarkable job with AF and close-up, so is good for moving fish. I will test everything AF with the 100 before giving up, as the combo would suit me perfectly if I can get it to perform.

Dropping the price to $700.

Thanks for watching. I’ve only had it in the water a few times now but so far I’m quite happy with the ergonomics. I adjusted the handles so that I was comfortable with the positions of the shutter and back AF button and I’ve had no issues with it. Still working on getting good buoyancy with it as it’s a little buoyant with my camera/lens combo and 230mm dome port. As for the precision of the interface it is bang on. All buttons work as they should and I have not had any issues with it. The functions are all super smooth and work just as they are supposed to. Cheers.

I picked up a Wolfbox MF200 several months ago to replace my dependance on 'Canned Air'. I tried another blower previous to this one, but found it too slow to get up to full power. The MF200 is quick to accelerate to full power and is very powerful. Aside from removing housing water and dust, I also use it for blowing up camping air mattresses, starting charcoal BBQ's, etc.

@dentrock Mine is the latest version with VXD. However, I only tested it briefly with a few domes using AF-S on my A7RII in my home test pool. I was only testing for sharpness. I was not testing autofocus performance. I have not shot it behind a dome for real world photos yet. I'll likely start doing that in the coming months, but I'm not necessarily a hard core AF-C user. I could try an AF-C test in my test pool, but since we have different cameras (with different AF settings), I'm afraid my results wouldn't necessarily apply to your setup. In summary, I would not recommend that you make the switch based on my positive report since I was only looking at sharpness, not AF-C performance. By the way, ignoring the AF-C issues for a moment, I'm curious if the Sony 100mm behind a dome gave you edge to edge sharpness if you did manage to get a shot in focus?

I don't recommend transporting a housing on flights with the camera installed. It is a risk to bend, fold, and mangle the alignment of the tray and controls. Depressed buttons can damage the camera body. I usually put my well padded viewfinder and optical cables inside the housing when packed. I travel with the housing loaded by car but not if the housing in in a suitcase or roller bag.

Anyone carrying their housing directly with them fully setup? I wonder if it could be a good approach?

Thanks! Maybe in a few weeks. I am in Raja Ampat for another couple weeks.

Isaac, Just to confirm your thoughts on the Tamron 90 macro with your dome: have you noticed any negative results with AF, in particular AFC? And is it the latest version with VXD focus motor? I'm determined to keep testing the Sony 100 with a dome and AFC, but if I can't get it to perform as well (or better) than the Sony 50 macro with dome, passing the Sony 100 to my wife for spiders and getting a Tamron for underwater might be an option. Thanks

Thanks to Grantmac and the discussion on this topic, I bought the Wolfbox. For years I was using a Rocket hand pump which I thought worked great. The Wolfbox is so much better! Thanks everyone!

That can work, but I found to dry a housing off thoroughly it took about half a scuba tank using the blower nozzle the resort had on site.

Dave, I have an MFO-3, we can coordinate at a dive site to confirm sizing. Planning to be at Cove 2 early this Saturday tentatively.

Small point which probably no-one will agree with: The PZ 10-20 is a great lens. If you move from Sony APS-C to FF as I did, there's nothing as compact as the 10-20 available in FF. I'm regretting selling my 10-20 instead of keeping it for use in crop mode with my A7CR (or even disable crop and get a bit more FOV out of it; e.g. square format). I found the button zooming a bit clunky though, and would probably go for the zoom gear instead.

Look into a Bambu P1s with AMS as the best cost effective option. If you buy without an AMS you will end up buying it later once you realize how useful it is.

Hey- Looking for the port adapter to buy ASAP if anyone has one.

I use the designt from "flowdesign" and realy like it! You find the files in the following post..

Looking at getting an entry level 3d printer now may be worth while

Hey Craine, How did this lens work for you ? Thinking of getting mostly for above water photography, but gets extra points if the feedback is good.

Hi I done a search on here on the for the diypedia post all was there really good stuff in there .

I picked up a rubber nozzle blower/tire inflator combo that attaches to a low pressure hose BCD connection. One less battery to charge and finding a tank to connect to on a trip is never an issue.

Sold

I've been using something similar for a couple of years. It is remarkably effective in drying off housings and ports. I think I've shared the Amazon link about a dozen times to people that see it and want to buy. I should get a referral credit!