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Thanks! On this config, the aim is the smallest/lightest rig that can deliver images where the quality remains good enough to be able to use/present anywhere. Backscatter HF-1 is too big. What about these as a hybrid? Weefine WFS07 Underwater Strobe and Video Light Weefine WFS09 Underwater Strobe and Video Light iDive Symbiosis SS3 Underwater Strobe & Video Light

You may be able to find some exposed slide film, the tail or lead. Then place it over the camera flash. My Inons would trigger from the infrared.

Capture One and Photoshop

No problem. I would suggest that an RX-100 and TG7 are not really interchangeable- the TG7 is a macro machine and does real close ups all by itself. The RX100 and TG7 are more or less the same on the wide end but to approach the performance of the TG7 you need to add on diopter closup lens as the lens does not focus that close and you have the carry that somewhere, plus they are not as straight forward to use and have a limited focus range. Hybrid strobes/video lights tend to be OK at both or perhaps like the Backscatter HF-1 it's a powerful strobes with an OK video light but very heavy and fairly large. The problem is a small strobe can run quite happily on 4 eneloops batteries , while to power a decent video light you need a couple of big 18650 or 21700 Li batteries, either that or they are rather underpowered. this item is made for the olympus housing to attach fibre optics: Backscatter.comOM System PFCA-03 Optical Fiber Cable AdapterOM System PFCA-03 Optical Fiber Cable Adapter for PT-056, PT-058, PT-059 Housing for TG-3, TG-4, TG-5, TG-6, TG-7. I haven't seen one designed for the bare camera, there are generic stick on units that I've seen being sold.

I'm currently using Retra strobes, I have the reduction rings and they have great light. I can get 3 Sydney dives out of a set of Eneloop batteries. The reduction rings make backscatter control so much easier compared to my previous Z240 strobes. The INON Z240 were very reliable for me though, you could add a neoprene sleeve to act like a reduction ring to them or any other strobe. The Z240s are still sitting around, but I can't see me using them again.

Thank you! Housing: I hear you, but my point is to be as compact and lean as possible. Otherwise I can go with an RX100 + housing. Inon S220 S-TTL Underwater Strobe: Roger. Would you happen to know the smallest hybrid light for photo and video? Stick on ports for fiber optic cables: Can you suggest known-to-work models to order?

OM System/ Olympus is really great if you want a true fisheye and intend to use the excellent 60mm macro and are not much interested in video. If a zoomable fisheye, or 90mm macro is the goal it looses some advantage, such as size. It could be argued that lens options for a Nauticam wet lens or conversion ports are better with other brands, as is mixed photo/video capability Things to consider... You mentioned supermacro ... the newer Sony 100mm and Canon RF 100mm macro lenses go to 1.4x magnification and high resolution cameras like the Sony A7rV are good for cropping images for extra magnification. Yes the OM 90mm can go to 2x but I can't see a difference between this and the Sony A7rv cropped to smaller size frame. The OM System cameras are great for in camera features like focus stacking but I haven't seen anything to suggest that works well underwater. If compactness is important the Nikon full frame looks a good option for the smaller WWL-1C and the Nikon Z5ii + 24-50mm lens in a Nauticam housing looks interesting. As has been mentioned, options for good small APS-C specific macro lenses are limited, (not such a big deal if you are satisfied with wet close-up lenses). The image below shows the minor size difference is between Sony A7Rv/A7v, Nikon Z5ii, Canon APS-C R7, and micro four thirds OM 1 ii if you have the same focal length, but also the small size if the Olympus 60mm macro. I would say for underwater use there is not a major difference in image quality or even real world autofocus use between most of these cameras except if you want low ambient light which favours the bigger sensor. I suggest choice is more dependent upon (i) what is available used (ii) if you want a fisheye or are are happy with 130 degrees for wide angle (iii) how serious you are about macro. From left to right: Sony A7Rv+90mm, Nikon Z5ii+105mm, Canon R7+100mm, OM1+90mm, OM1+60mm

While I don't think that you will go wrong with the OM-1, I am using a Panasonic Lumix GH7 with an external monitor and love it. I mostly shoot the Olympus 60 mm macro lens that was mentioned and it is my favorite lens. However, I shoot video exclusively so my use case will be a little different than yours.

CCRphoto: I am currently using a full frame Nikon underwater but have begun experimenting with going back to micro four thirds (MFT) for travel weight and size reasons. I previously used MFT for several years and would add the following for consideration: I use nauticam housings, so the choices are based on that. For macro, the Oly 60mm and Panasonic 45mm are excellent. I have not used the 90mm lens and doubt I will do so. For extreme wide angle and CFWA, I like the the Oly 8mm fisheye in a 100mm Zen or 140 Nauticam dome port, or second choice, Panasonic 8mm in the same ports. The 12mm Oly is also good for a rectilinear choice Alternatively, a 14-42 or 12-32 lens behind a WWL or WWL-C works well. I found the Panasonic 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 II ASPH MEGA OIS LUMIX G Vario to be the best 14-42 with the WWL, compared to the other 14-42 options from Panasonic and Olympus. I don’t care for the zoom operation of the EZ and PZ lenses. You may feel different about that. The 12-32 lens works well behind the WWL-C and many above water tests suggest it is a sharper lens than the 14-42 lenses. While none of those kit lenses are what I would choose on land, they work well in the water with the WWL and WWL-C. The other lens I enjoyed was the 12-40 behind a 180mm dome, but decided the weight and size of that option defeated the purpose of using micro four thirds stuff. At various times I experimented with the 12-50, 7-14, and some other lenses, but finally settled on those I list above as all I really needed and the 8mm with dome port or WWL are alternatives on any dive trip, depending on destination and goal. I would not take both of those. I supplement with various wet lenses like the CMC, MFO, etc. I am unsure whether I will go back to MFT, as I am happier with the results of APS-C and full frame, but that is probably a personal skill issue, not a hardware issue. Generally, I feel APS-C is the sweet spot, and if Nikon does decide to produce a D500 replacement Z camera, that is something I would be very interested in. So far, it seems that camera companies have been withholding some of the best tech from their crop sensor cameras and offering limited lens choices. I hope that whatever you choose, it brings you many hours of enjoyment. Oh, I also recommend the Retra strobes or if you want something smaller, look at the Atom.

Mission 1 Pro close-up picture Sea horse captured with Inon G165 II and some cropping in post production (thanks to the 50Mb).

Expectedly, you will need a lot of shares of the coppermine... 😄 Seriously talking, I would go second hand in your case (it will need monthes until the new models will become available, if this will ever happen). It is just important to decide now into which system to go (Canon, Nikon, Olympus, Sony; MFT, APS-C, FF), then later you can upgrade with intermediate expense (just 10% of a coppermine (estimated))...

Last year I went from an EM1ii (m43) to an A7RIII (FF) and looking back I regret it somewhat. Although it was fairly cost neutral being both somewhat older systems the money would have been better spent on getting a Canon 8-15 and required accessories, since I'm now spending that anyway but likely with the Sony 2x TC and required extension on top.

Thanks. I find HLG3 with a Rec.709 colour gamut (instead of Rec.2020, since I don't deliver in HDR) works great so far. No colour space conversion is needed other than the automatic HDR-to-SDR mapping, and there's plenty of headroom for grading. I have set a custom WB to 4900K, which is what is required with my mixed light setups after testing. This is a recent HLG-3 Rec709 clip, shot on a murky bonfire dive, on the Sony 100mm macro with the MFO-3: I'm definitely saving S-LOG 3 for ambient light work, or more precisely mixed lighting.

If you are looking at HF-1s then the comparable Retra strobe is the Maxi, not the Pro Max II. I just went through all of this and the winner was the Maxi. Powerful, tremendous range from lowest to highest power, useful video lights if into that and a great focus light. Can shoot a week, hardly an exaggeration, fast recycle and despite being on the larger side are neutral or even positive in the water. I am keeping my Inon S220 strobes for backup. I have used quite a few different types of strobes. I had, I thought an issue with one of my new Retra Maxi. I sent an email to Retra, they answered within an hour with a solution. Turns out the newest software was corrupted on some loads and they set it up for me to revert both strobes back to an earlier software. Problem solved, perfect! I do not think there is any other strobe company that gives you friendly and personal support. Same with Nauticam, while you may not get answers to emails often, there is just huge support, parts and service available for what has become the premium brand. One thing, for an OM based system, I might would go with the Backscatter Atom. A little smaller than the HF-1, still quite powerful, cheaper and supports OM Systems RC control for TTL. The Retras have standard, universal mimic TTL which works fine IMO. I was concerned about the size of the Retra Maxi when I first began looking at a new strobe. The HF-1 support only for OM Systems RC TTL turned me off to the Backscatter products pronto. It really turns out, in actual use, the Retra Maxi is just not that big. In fact, it maneuvers well in the water due to being neutral, the lithium batteries shoot and shoot and shoot, and my systems still fit into my Sam's Club Members Mark insulated bag ($8) like it was made for them. Nothing I have encountered with my Maxi strobes thus far changes my opinion of them, they are quite amazing. For the HF-1 or Atom, you may need 3D printed float collars or an additional float arm. With the Maxi strobes I was able to remove my outer float arms and use bare arms instead due to their buoyant nature. This, even compared to the diminutive S220 strobes.

He bought my Inon Z-330 v2 strobes. They work well, but not HSS. Not a need for him. I am using the Backscatter HF-1 for wide and MF-2 (now MF-3) for macro. Both are great. The Retras are always a very solid choice due to the circular flash tube. If I did not already have the HF-1s I would grab a pair of the new Retra Maxis and add a warming diffuser as needed. The high capacity batteries, overall power and built in video lights are attractive, especially considering they are not super negative.

Europe's 22% VAT is insane - makes everything so crazy expensive when visiting there. I will take a look at Retra's, the Retra Pro Max II and Backscatter HF-1 each have their own pluses and minuses, I will have to spend a bit of time researching each and then making a decision.

At this stage the OM-1 is still favourite for the smaller size and portability, I will take a look at the Nikon Z5 II etc, but the OM-1 + 90mm macro has some appeal to this old supermacro nerd. What strobes did your buddy set his rig up with?

OK will take a look at that too...

The Nikon could be an interesting option - a lot will depend on timing, at the moment I'm not sure whether it is going to take another two weeks for the shares that I am going to be selling to hit their peak - or is it going to take another 3-4 months until after the next set of quarterly financials are released... very hard to tell but they jumped 19% on Friday after the April-June quarterly report was released on Friday morning, and should go up another 100-125% from here now that they have proven that they can mine and process the copper consistently and successfully. Its a very good time to be owning shares in a copper miner.

Europe and Australia recently struck a trade deal making almost all import/export tarrif free. Especially strobes and accessories (tarrif codes 9006.61 and 9006.99) are now free of any tarrif charges except local GST which currently sits at 10% making the final price even more affordable than in Europe where average VAT rate is around 22%. Shipping is fast too, 2-3 working days to most locations from EU to AU. Repairs are rarely required but in case something brakes the turnaround would be 2 weeks from pickup to delivery. The same team that designs and produces the strobe will also service/repair it to guarantee the highest quality.