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Hi everyone, I have an old Sea & Sea MDX-D300 underwater housing for the Nikon D300. It has seen a lot of use and a few of the buttons are no longer working properly. I also have a replacement O-ring kit that I bought with the intention of giving the housing a full overhaul, but I never got around to doing it. Along with the housing, I have two Nikon D300 camera bodies. Both are heavily used and show quite a lot of cosmetic wear, but they are still in working condition. Do you think any of this still has some value on the second-hand market, either as a complete set or separately? Or is it basically too old and worn to be worth selling? I’d rather not throw it all away if someone could still make use of it. Thanks!

Hi Shaina! A welcome to Waterpixels and underwater photography. The fastest way to empty a bank account! UW photography that is. We’re just here to help. Great to have you with us. Best wishes

Well about time! Welcome! Great to have you with us. Lots of people here you’ll know from the Old Days. We really hope you enjoy your new home. Best wishes

I have not used the 28-60 with a diopter. Thanks for explaining the differences in a way beginners such as myself can understand.

Please let us know the minimum and maximum focus distances once they become known.

Interesting. I’ve had one on order since June. I heard they had quality issues that delayed delivery. Maybe they had to switch to a new glass supply? Where are the Nauticam optics manufactured?

Hi there ! I’m Shaina! I’ve had a camera in my hand and some form of a photography career for 20 years, in all sorts of niches but never underwater. Ocean life photography has been my dream for years and I’m finally moving to Oahu with my family this November and making that dream come true! Before I get there I’d like to deepen and sharpen my “on land” skill and prepare myself for what’s to come. I currently shoot with a Sony a6000 that is being held together basically by prayer st this point lol Any tips on what camera to upgrade to that would benefit me most on land and ocean? And of course first water housing ? Any tips and tricks greatly appreciated!

Friends - finally moved over from Wetpixel... Avid cold water diver from North California - excited to be back!

That description is correct. I would ask have you ever used lens like the 28-60 with a diopter? You can achieve 0.7x at 83mm , but it only shows a focused image between 83 and 135mm and much outside that range it’s really blurred. It works but it is not the same as using a macro lens. Housings can be hard to aim sometimes and with a true macro you can back up, find the subject and keep focusing as you move in . Basically easier to use . You can produce nice images with both, but a dedicated macro lens is always going to be sharper. The macro plus MFO3 gives flexibility to shoot critters from 5-10mm size all the way up to about 300-500mm.

Thank you for taking the time to explain. The examples you listed made it easier for me to understand focus-distance gaps and how it affects shooting.

28-60mm alone is already a medium to narrow lens. I have the 14-42mm (M43 hence 28-84mm) and CMC-2. Adding a CMC-2 you definitely go in medium macro territory. But don't confuse this configuration with a true macro lens. I made the same mistake naively years ago. I had the WWL and buying a single flip with the CMC-2 was the obvious choice. But if you look at the port chart you notice you have a focus/distance gap. The MFD of the 14-42mm is much greater than the focus range of the CMC-2. And you're therefore forced to be very careful about distances from your subjects. For example, my 14-42mm has a MFD of 20 cm at 14 and 30 cm at 42mm. For example you have a nudibranch at 20 cm from you. You're at 42mm and you can't focus on it but if you put on the CMC-2 it's not in focus anyway and you have to get closer between 77 and 122 mm. Depending on the subject and situation it could be really annoying. I also have a 45mm (90 FF) on which I mount the CMC-2 with the flip and for macro it's a completely different sport. Sure you don't do medium subjects but from small to fairly advanced macro you cover all sizes and distances. Now I don't want to dismiss this configuration that I still use and consider a jack of all trades. But it's not ideal like it was often recommended years ago.

duplicate post, please delete.

Apologies, I am a newbie and not familiar with the ratio terminology. Nauticam lists the CMC-1 and 2 as options to be used with the 28-60. I assumed this is to shorten the minimum focus distance at 60 for macro like performance. I thought the MFO-3 was designed to be used with 100mm macro lenses to create a system to mimic 50-60mm macro lenses because some subjects are too large for 100mm and existing 50-60mm macro lenses autofocus poorly. I own the 28-60 lens and flat port for use with the WWL for wide angle shooting. It would be nice if the 28-60 could also be used for medium to narrow angle shooting by adding the CMC-2. It is certainly more compact than the 100mm MFO-3 combination. I just do not know how the 2 setups compare optically or in ease of use.

On Sony you need the 35.5mm N120 adapter plus the DP100T for N120. I wouldn't buy the DP100 new, I'd look for a 140mm port instead. But the DP100 show up used fairly often.