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Wondering if we should be more discerning about the types of vessels we book. It seems to me that a solid timber vessel would be less of an issue, I'm thinking of the Phinisis that ply Indonesian waters built of tropical hardwoods using traditional methods. Timber will burn strongly but requires something to start it going - kindling if you are building a fire. Of course it will burn and once it gets going become intense but the ignition is probably slower. Looking at boats I've been on I looked up safety requirements for vessels plying Australian waters and while SOLAS is not required they have extensive fire safety requirements they need to meet, particularly if operating offshore - The Rowley Shoals boat comes to mind, operating 300 km offshore. I also recall the boat we did a Galapagos cruise on was steel hulled and seemed well equipped but that was 12 years ago now. Most of my dive trips have been from land based resorts in the recent past - possibly as I don't have fantastic sea legs, I was quite sick on the run out to Rowley shoals, but the return trip was much calmer seas with what swell there was behind us.

Maybe a trigger to change providers? Or maybe you keep your phone in your pocket even if it is powered down or the grab bag. With a phone in hand nearly anything can be taken care of these days.

Hopefully they're able to get it off the reef. One of my faorite beaches in Lembongan had a similar thing happen to a crane and they just left it there and it's been there for years now. Total eyesore and not good for the reef.

The quality looks pretty decent into the corners in the sample photos, seems quite heavy at 650 gr, though the Canon 8-16 is no lightweight either at 540 gr.

To be honest, with Canon RAW I think you really need to expose to the right and even slightly overexpose to get the best results. I got caught by that at the beginning because I didn’t know it behaved that way, and my first tests looked much noisier than expected. But once I understood how the codec likes to be exposed, I was actually very happy with the results, especially after grading.

Thanks Chris. I appreciate it!

Hi Tyler, welcome to the forum, enjoy the forums!

Selling a complete AOI UWL‑09 PRO kit. The optics are perfect — no scratches, coating marks, haze, or edge separation. Dome and rear element are clean. Light, normal exterior wear only. The lens is set up with the AOI QRS‑01 bayonet system for fast underwater switching between wide and macro. The AOI FC‑01 float collar is included (not installed for shipping). When installed, the lens remains approximately 270 g / 9.5 oz negative in water, which is the expected buoyancy for this model. Both AOI DNC‑08 neoprene covers fit correctly over the float collar. --- Included - AOI UWL‑09 PRO (130° water‑contact wide angle) - AOI QRS‑01‑AD2 (lens‑side adapter, installed) - AOI QRS‑01‑MB1 (M67 mount base) - AOI FC‑01 float collar (shipped separately, not installed) - Two AOI DNC‑08 neoprene dome covers - Rear cap - Original AOI padded case --- Price $725 OBO + shipping PayPal Goods & Services. Ships insured from Texas (USPS/UPS). High‑res photos of the glass available on request.

I went down the RAW rabbit hole with Canon for low light and can not get anywhere near the quality of video that the CLOG delivers. Often note mentioned, but if shooting challenging lighting, sometimes RAW is a real beast to make look good and beyond me in Post. Intrigued by Nikon NR being better. Or Sony. Also very intrigued by the C50 but on the fence whether the C400 or C80, with the triple ISO is really the advance compared the R5C, which is a great camera. Few housings for the C400 or C80 though.

My name is Tyler and I live in Santa Barbara. My wife and I love diving and have done some dive related raveling since 2019. We've been to Fiji, Wakatobi, Raja, and a few other places in Indonesia. I went all-in on underwater photography about 2 years ago and have been really enjoying the hobby. Looking forward to contributing to the community here.

Welcome Craig, I'm Sydney based mostly diving Kurnell, where's your local dive site?

Hello, Just wanted to introduce myself, I have been a user of the site for some time and follow a few of the experienced photographers on here. I am an avid underwater photographer located on the east coast of Australia. I dive locally at least every couple of weeks and have done extensive dive travel in South-east Asia and the Western Pacific. Cheers!

Thank you Tim and Oskar. @Oskar - Retra UWT I have sent an email.

Are you sure you are taking a step forward with the C-50? The H.265 codecs do not seem superior to those of your A1 to me. The RAW takes up a huge amount of space, and some time ago I downloaded some files from the Canon Europe website and they did not exactly blow me away. Very high noise at high ISOs that requires work in post-production. The RAW files from the Nikon ZR were a whole different world. Beautiful but too extreme.

Hi, please copy/paste your issue to our email: [email protected] This is by far the fastest and the most reliable way of getting any issue resolved with any Retra product. P.S.: sounds like a sensor malfunction, there are potential temporary workarounds.

I think that's the over-heating warning I pulled this off ChatGPT: This happens when: shooting long rapid bursts, using high power repeatedly, using strong modeling/pilot light, or in warm water/air conditions. The strobe will automatically: reduce flash power, limit the pilot light, or temporarily stop normal operation to protect internal components. What to do: stop firing for a minute or two, turn down pilot light brightness, reduce burst shooting, let the strobe cool in the water. Once temperature drops, the blinking should stop automatically. Retra specifically recommends shooting in intervals with 30–60 second pauses if you’re pushing the strobe hard. Oskar might well chip-in.......

Thanks a lot for your feedback, really appreciated. I totally see your point about the C50. I had also been looking closely at the new 20-50 PZ lens, especially for use with the WACP. For now Nauticam still doesn’t seem to know if it will be officially compatible with the WACP setup. To be honest I’m not a huge fan of the RF 24-50 that I currently use with my WACP. It works, but I really think the new 20-50 L series could deliver much better image quality and a more interesting range underwater. I also agree with you about the photo side of things. Since switching to the R5C I actually shoot a lot more stills than before, but I mostly work with video lights so the lack of shutter/flash sync wouldn’t affect me too much. I guess that’s probably the real issue on your side if you travel wanting a true hybrid setup. And honestly, I also use the R5C a lot topside and it’s such a joy to work with. Still one of my favorite hybrid cameras overall.

I just had a dive where one of my Retra Pro X started flashing red and yellow on the indicator on the back. It was working fine when I tested before leaving Home. I thought it was a flood, but it isnt. I tried changing the batteries, but it is the same. If I Press the test button right after I turn it on, it gives a flash like it should, but then it starts again with the red/yellow flashing. Has anybody else experienced this? And most important, know what to do?😀

USB-C PD is some sort of a IC-controlled way to power a device as there are a few handshakes between power source and IC inside the camera to ajust volt and currents. It's super risky to assume you can power a USB-C port without following that protocol. There are circuits that connects on li-ion or li-po batteries or whatever types of power source into USB-C PD compatible outputs. They won't fry the camera and batteries won't burn and they are just a few dollars/euros.

Do you know what the voltage limits are for your camera? I found this about A7SIII power bank requirements: Seems like it will accept higher voltages and Sony recommend 9V #A power banks and won't run the camera without battery unless it gets a handshake to show it is getting the exact voltage it wants to run the camera, but should supplement the battery if it's in place with a lesser power bank. So two parallel -two series 14500 batteries in holders (4 total) - about AA size would give you 2000 mAhr at 7.4V or 14.8 Whrs, just need to wire some holders to a USB-C cable and not worry about electronics too much and charge them in an external charger. you could use a velcro tie wrap to keep the batteries in and velcro padding on as needed. Might be a good option if you had the space. Nitecore has 1000 mAhr 14500 batteries.

I was using the overall buoyancy setup i use with the Retra Maxi strobes. So it would be pretty negative with the Backscatters. The HF-1 float fully negated the weight of that strobe so the rig ended up much lighter. I loosened the arm and it would float around freely. The Atom was still negative by 150grams or so and and the rig was noticably unbalanced. I will print a second float for the 2nd HF-1 and do another dive with the balanced setup.

Also very interesting discussion about Color Options for gopro log Oficial LUT gopro Thatcher DTCL Xtremestuff Python Lut

Gopro has published white paper about GP-Log2 & Logarithmic Exposure. https://gopro.github.io/labs/log/ They also create a LUT generator https://gopro.github.io/labs/gplog2/

Bumping this thread, I am now the owner of a Nauticam NA-A1 housing and future owner of an A7SIII. The A1 housing does have space for a flash trigger which I won't use, and I'd be really really interested in practical (and safe) battery options for the camera, since I will be shooting video. I've considered the USB charger bulkhead, but currently have an HDMI bulkhead on the housing's M16 port, and will have a screen at some point in the near future, so I'm really interested in in-housing battery solutions Has anyone managed to find a system that works and doesn't fry cameras too often? Thanks!

How did it “feel” in water (balance, etc.) vs no collar and more traditional arm floatation?