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If your friend wants to be able to use RC mode it may only work with an Oly/OM lens. Manuals for the Backscatter strobes state that an Oly/OM lens is required and while I didn't see the AOI manual address this you may want to find this out if you are considering the Panasonic lens. If they plan to only shoot in manual then obviously not a consideration.

BTW, on Instagram I saw an interview of Aquatica by Underwater Photography Guide. They have a prototype of a Nikon ZR housing https://www.instagram.com/reel/DRQ6IaWETB1/?utm_source=ig_web_button_native_share&igsh=ZDNlZDc0MzIxNw%3D%3D

Paul! Great to see you here. About time. A warm welcome to Waterpixels - your new home!

I came across this video of the NA-ZR housing. It shows the new Nauticam blue port Locking mechanism. basically a green led signals you correctly attached the port. It should be standard on new housings https://www.facebook.com/cghdive/posts/pfbid0n1uVSfkkhGXUdMx9mcNyHQh9xwA8spaaH3GLXA7kmcFumDdwdeHs2PUCbfLhRUBPl

Or, even better, showing where you come from, during a photographic safari? 😁

Come on, guys! What's better than a nice steaming coffee in a Waterpixels mug?

I'm sure folks will come up with intermediate steps suggestions. My only thought is that an intermediate step is exactly that. It doesn't stop the hankering or aim to go the whole nine yards and get that Z8 system. And then you have a mainly redundant intermediate step which could be hard to sell. Unless I've missed something (entirely possible) I've not heard many good reviews of the 14-24 for underwater use. Nauticam recommend (they would, wouldn't they) the kit lens (!) Nikkor 24-50 with the WWL-C; and I have read many good reviews of this combination. Maybe worth looking at before jumping for that intermediate solution?

What I wad thinking of actually, is the combination of 8-15mm FE with a teleconverter 1.4x or 2.0x. If you search on the forum it's a hot topic. The first post I found:

I've gone the same route and have had the same debate with myself. I love the Tokina 10-17 which I use as my go-to wide-angle lens on a Nikon D500. I've thought about a Nikon Z8 or Z6III and the Nikkor 24-50 and Nauticam WWL-C, a combination which many folks say is very good. I'd love to have the in-viewfinder review that mirrorless offers especially for snoot-shoots. But then I think of the cost: new housing, wet lens etc etc and think,... naah.

Yep, for shallow, sunny water they can be helpful. HSS equipped strobes can be another way of achieving the similar results - although more expensively probably! I'm not sure about the fitting. Usually ND filters screw directly on to the front of the lens and is therefore inside the housing/port combination and doesn't get wet. Hopefully! If it is the case that the system you use has the filter in front of a wet lens - so effectively it is getting wet - my suggestion would be to install it before you enter the water and then "burp" it by unscrewing it and replacing to release air bubbles once you are at depth and settled. That way you know you have it, that it fits properly and won't disappear mysteriously from a BCD pocket as you descend.

Backscatter strobes have proprietary TTL protocol, not a classic TTL. Proprietary TTL protocol requires Backscatter triggers usage, as i remember those triggers exist for Olympus and Sony. The HSS system in Backscatter strobes is compatible with most of HSS triggers on the market, including UWT triggers of course.

Hey all...I want to upgrade. Been using GoPro and Insta360 x 3 for a few years now and getting OK-ish results. I have a few sweet trips lined up the next few years (Socorro, Cocos Island, Palau) and want to up my game. I currently have a Nikon Z8 with a few pretty nice lenses. I think the only one that would work underwater would be my z14-24/2.8. I don't have a 24-70...have never really gelled with that range. My goal is large wildlife, expansive shots. I am not super into nudibranchs, sea horses, etc. Think sharks, rays, whales, etc. Any issues with a Z8/14-24 rig for what I am looking to shoot? I would like to avoid another lens if possible. But if Before I go this route....any recommendations for "intermediate step" options? The Z8 route is spendy and if something much cheaper will get me most of the way there, that would be great to explore. Best!

Thanks TimG. I dive plenty in shallow, sunny water. I'm planning on using it on the wet lens in front of my housing. I'm guessing that i should probably attach it underwater to get water in between the lens and filter.

Friends don't let friends TTL. 😉

The WaterPixels Shop is now open! You can now grab WaterPixels merch at https://waterpixels.shop. All profits go toward keeping the site online and supporting our hosting costs. One of our major goals is to keep WaterPixels free for everyone, and picking up something from the shop — or even donating any amount — truly helps us make that possible. As before Items are printed in your country or region. We do not have tax or vat numbers so we just pay them when we place the order. This is picked up in the shop under WPX fees. Previously we had to manually make the order and then update the fees and send an update back to the user with the final amount to pay. We are now fully automated to calculate this and get your order in immediately. Much easier for everyone. Also while on the shop site, before check out, you can hit the sign in with WaterPixels button and it will bounce you to the forums and back to the shop. no need to create an extra account. Purchases can also be made as guest. If you sign in with WaterPixels, you will get a supporter badge. If there is a variation or product you don't see and want let me know and I'll see about adding. Thanks for supporting our volunteer‑run community!

I'm shopping for my first macro and sitting between the 45mm Panasonic or 60mm Olympus. I already have the port for the Olympus but it seems like a lot of lens for what I do. I'd likely get the MFO-3 to go with either one.

Personally not a fan at all of the Canon (or Nikon) 8-15mm full frame fish eyes. They basically have a circular image at 8mm that I never ever touch, and then a normal wide fisheye at 15mm, that is similar to the 10mm result on the Tokina. I like the ability to zoom in on the Tokina and there is nothing on Full Frame that can do that, other than with the FCP-1 now

Great trip on the Damai II through the Forgotten Islands. Trip report, eventually. Few pics and one bit of amazing video shot by Ollie Clarke while we were in transit: https://www.ollieclarkephotography.com Pygmy Blue Whale.m4v

Oh I know. Currently looking at getting strobes to update my pair of video lights when I was using a go pro.

Hi Toque I’m not sure that any specific manufacturer of ND filters makes them for underwater. Hoya filters are good and a reasonable price. The filters are pretty straightforward and underwater doesn’t make much, if any, difference. Essentially they block light from entering the lens. So this means you can use a wider aperture at the same shutter speed, or reduce a high shutter speed - so keeping it inside the fastest sync speed - if in, say, bright, shallow water.

Here are a few images of the items for sale. If buying new, these items would cost $2,050 excluding tax.

Warm welcome to the community. Never forget : underwater photography is a highly addicting hobbyy.... Once you start, you'll never stop

Thank you for this modification of the config.

The trend these days seems to be to market strobes that require a proprietary TTL trigger. The Backscatter strobes do not have a simple mimic TTL mode. And reading the manual for it and the HF-1 the Backscatter trigger is required for TTL? My three camera rigs run from the pop up strobe or from a UW Technics board. So the Atom would be manual only I assume though I think the HSS mode would work from the UWT board?