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Yes, please ask... I think there are several interested...

I, personally, am not a compact camera UW photographer... This camera looks to be an alternative to the common Sony and Canon compact cameras used UW? https://www.dpreview.com/articles/9011490317/panasonic-l10-2026-tour-controls-changes DivePhotoGuideNauticam Announces Housing for the Panasonic Lumix L10

He closed his shop several years ago, but since I know him very well personally, I can still get materials from him. I can ask if he might also sell to third parties.

Can you please give details about the manufacturer and how to order the floats?

Which dome are you using with the 24-105? Is the IQ overall better than EF 8-15/4 (center and edges)? I could not detect any difference in autofocus behavior between the Canon EF/RF adapter and the Commlite. Did you also test a 1.4 extender? So far, I've only been able to compare the extenders over water: In the center of the image, there's virtually no difference in image quality between the Canon RF 1.4 and 2.0 (zoomed to 200%), but at the edges, the 2.0 is noticeably worse. And my old Kenko 1,4 Teleplus Pro 300 DGX performed significantly worse than my Canon RF extenders in all situations, especially visible at the edges. What I noticed: with the combination of Commlite + Canon RF Ext., you should switch off the IBIS in the camera, otherwise there are strange, disturbing shake corrections in the viewfinder.

Here is how I would rank it, IQ sharpness wise: 1.) RF 24-105 STM (the sharpest!) 2.) Canon EF 8-15mm with original EF-RF Adapter 3.) Canon EF 8-15mm with comlite EF-RF Adapter (I have not shot this combination, as the comlite seems to exhibit some dismal AF performance compared to the Camon EF-RF adapter already on land) - so this is a „I suppose“ line 4.) Canon Fisheye 8-15 with original Canon RF-EF adapter and Kenko 2.0x TC 5.) Canon Fisheye 8-15 with modified Comlite RF-EF adapter and Canon RF 2.0x TC

I think the answer is with a 1.4/2x you are always further away than you would be with a bare lens and with a wet lens. With a 2x you can match nearly a 100mm macro with an SMC-3 (2x vs about 2.2-2.3x depending on which macro lens). Basically more water between you and your subject which will degrade the image. If you back off to get 1:1 with a 100mm_macro/2.0x you have the reach of a 200mm macro, so if you had a 100mm lens with 300mm focus distance and 150mm working distance at 1:1 you would double that distance with a 200mm focal length lens depending on how much the lens reduces in focal length to achieve 1:1 with and IF design. It gets worse as you progressively shoot larger subjects. A 1.4x might be a good compromise to give a bit more working distance compared to the bare lens and wet lens at a given magnification.. Also bear in mind that the longer focal length of the lens + TC combo will give you significantly more magnification than the bare lens with the same wet lens. For example the m43 Pany 45mm lens gets 1.6x with CMC-1 while the 60mm macro gets 2.0x (both 1:1 lenses) and 60mm is near 1.4x 45mm. so the new Sony macro might go from 2.4x with SMC-3 to 3.3x with a 1.4x and 4.8x when used with a 2x. So a 1.4x/2.0x locks you into smaller subjects than a bare lens/wet lens combo does and the impact would be noticeable I think in the 0.5x -1:1 range and lower magnifications unless the water was crystal clear. It may work well for skittish mobile subjects like small fish if this was the sole subject of your dive. You might also degrade AF performance with the 2x at max magnification again depending on lens/body combination

Interesting! How am I supposed to understand this sentence? Does the fisheye lens without any extender (adapted to the camera only with the Commlite) have less IQ than the fisheye lens with the Kenko 2.0x PRO TC? But you also have to adapt that one to a Canon DSLM with some adapter...

Yes, I've had the strobes for a few weeks now, but I've only been able to do one test a few days ago in the pool. In a week, I'll be diving in the North Sea for a few days and will then have more information. However, the dives will certainly take place in very poor visibility and I obviously won't be able to test the actual flash power then (as I would in backlighting and clear water in a coral reef).

Thanks. Bit more shocked than I thought we would be - but ok. Having survived (!), the gear loss is utterly depressing. I'm going to need some expert advice from you guys on what direction to go next. Slowly, slowly.....

I am happy Canon made this lens. 20mm is the sweet spot before rectilinear lenses start looking odd. I hope the lens design pops up on optical bench soon, so we can have a closer look.

Hi everyone, I'm an owner of the R5C which I really like. I'm looking to change for 2nd camera (BMPCC6k) for this last canon cinema camera. Does anyone did use it underwater and as any review about it ? Thank you

Having done a few more snaps in the field and tightly comparing the sharpness of my lens line-up, I must conclude: Newer RF lenses are more razor (sharp) than older EF lenses. This basically confirms also various land based tests I churned through on the internet. Surprisingly my RF 24-105 STM is the sharpest lens in my lineup and it outperforms the EF 8-15 fisheye in overall IQ sharpness on average. I even think the RF 24-105 is sharper than the Canon RF 100 mm macro behind a flat port on many occasions. Also I am currently under the impression that the EF 8-15 combined with the Kenko 2.0x PRO TC performs better than with the RF 2.0x comlite adapter.

@TimG my condolences! What a nightmare. I hope you are not too traumatized by the experience and the gear loss aftermath.

So you made the jump to new strobes @waso … were you already able to take them out for a test drive ? … interested to see your first results with them soon.

Similar complaints from my better half here, too. She usually says something like: „Oh nooo, are you going to watch Shrek again,… ?“ before she leaves the room. 😅 🥴

After using several GoPros for many years, I decided to switch to the Osmo Action 5 last year following extensive research, and I’ve never regretted it. Due to its smaller sensor, the GoPro has a significant drawback, especially in low-light conditions like those found underwater. Footage shot at greater depths and in caves/caverns/overhangs is heavily noisy, whereas the Osmo Action offers clear advantages in these situations.

Update: 1 sold 1 ball mount left $25

There was another semi-interesting release from Laowa same time, the 35mm macro AF lens. But maybe its bit too wide to replace 100mm+MFO-3? But looking forward to seeing more of these manufacturers rolling out AF lenses. Definately waiting on someone to test the fisheye uw.

Basically title says it all. Action cam will be stuck on top of A1ii, main purpose is to film "everything" in the blue like hammers ect 20-ish meters away, scenery in Indonesia, ect. Main is cost effectiveness, so camera and "original" housing from the camera maker. Is wideangle wetlens needed? Or does the additional price justify it for my described use? The price range and what ChatGPT is suggesting, are all the obvious suspects, GoPro 13 black, Insta360 Ace Pro 2 and DJI Osmo Action 5 Pro. And Inon UFL-G140 ZD. The prices of this setup is pretty much what im willing to do splash out. Only thing is which one.

Good plan on the backups, Robert. One other fly in the disaster ointment I’ve found. I have a UK SIM in my phone. My provider will only mail out a physical SIM to my UK contact address. Won’t email out an eSIM nor mail overseas. A local SIM has restored some functions but many remain inaccessible till I get that UK one. I’ve been on liveaboards where the CD has collected all passports and kept them in a dry bag with a Satphone at the entrance to the salon. Very wise move. We all had go-bags but they were in our cabins. One or two were able to grab these but the majority couldn’t.

Thanks. I suspect banjar would know very well about this already...as in no way villagers can keep a haul this big a secret nor Banjar would not ask for a cut ;/ Sadly radio silence so far in there. But will see if I can somehow get through to them indeed, who knows. Yeah, Segara, locals fishing on the shore and throwing lines good 50m+ onto the dive site.

You could still shoot UL&M email about it. If i understood correctly from UWPShow, he is open to new suggestions ect. But tbh, i dont know what enabling HSS/rear requires from circuitry. Housing Aquatica->Nauticam should be no problem (unless Aquatica has like heaps of more space inside housing).

Thanks for the feedback. +1 for Turtle. The UL&M trigger doesn't support HSS or Rear Curtain either and it does not seem to have a Nikon/Nauticam option, only Aquatica. Strange.

TRT is a solid piece of kit, i have used the Smart 3 for Sony 6+ months now. I was going back and forth between TRT and UW-Technics and chose TRT due to the slick looks and easy firmware updates. Representatives of both triggers are somewhat active here on waterpixels, so you can ask any questions from them. Maybe the Underwater Light & Magic trigger could be for you? Its full manual and cheap, but i dont know about HSS/Rear curtain. But im sure he will hook you up if its possible, seems like a fellow tinkerer like yourself ;)