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A few considerations on upgrading as you know the widest lens that doesn't vignette for the WACP series is 28mm so both of the 20-50 lenses would need to zoom into 28mm in operation and you can't just get there by turning the dial out you have to look to see you have got to 28mm. I could see this being an issue when trying to work quickly. Also neither 20-50 lens is on the WACP-C port charts as yet and particularly fast lenses might not work with the WACP-C, though the Sony 24-50 f2.8 is on the WACP-C port chart, but there appears to be a typo in the port chart and the line advising the zoom range is 28-50 seems to be missing. I believe they have a limit on entrance pupil size which impacts what lenses work in that system. Assuming you are looking at both lenses behind the WACP-C The WACP-1/1B includes the Sony 20-70 f4 lens, but most of the lenses for that optic are also kit lenses. What exactly is the concern with with the R-5II? I would have thought the sensor capabilities of the A1 and R5 II to be very close, Is there no option to cap maximum ISO when using auto ISO? It might be worth asking the question how Canon shooters handle blue water metering as well, could be a better option than a system switch?

Tiger @27mm. Dolphins @20mm.

1/250 sec at f/10, ISO 320 @45mm

Aloha everyone, I am an underwater photographer based in Oahu, Hawaii. I work as a professional shark diver and photographer currently. I shoot mostly blue water with the primary subjects being sharks and people. I also run trips for Orcas and Humpback Whales so looking for opinions on if I should switch systems. I currently use the R5mii with the 14-35 f4. I feel low it’s low light capabilities and metering give me issues in blue water so running auto iso is out of the picture as it wants to shoot extremely high. I have the wacp-2 and with the 14-35 it has vignetting in the corner so kind of defeats the purpose of using that lens. I do have the 15-35 as well. I am looking at buying the wacp-c and the 20-50 F4 lens that just released as that’s a way smaller setup to shoot and handle sharks with while giving me close focus and ultra wide fov. I got an offer for a good price on a Sony a1 setup and they have the 20-50 2.8 lens which seems interesting to me. Would be much smaller and that extra low light capabilities for Norway with orcas is huge. Has anyone used any of these cameras and the wacp-c setups that could give some insight to steer me one way. Feel free to msg me here, respond to this posts or IG@whotippedmycow Thank you for your time and happy 4th!

Has anyone used this with a wacp-c yet? I am debating buying it. Also debating switching to a Sony a1 for the 20-50 2.8 with wacp-c over my canon R5mii.

I did not add a diopter. I have been shooting this setup with 140mm dome and 30mm extension, which is the recommended port and extension for the EF 8-15mm fisheye. As I mentioned earlier in this thread, I was able to re-use the zoom gear from my RF 14-35. I've taken it on 5 dives and one offshore shoot for big animals. To be honest, I have been very surprised at how well it has worked in the tiny dome. I know the edges will not be acceptable for some, but for me, I am satisfied. I mainly shore dive, so lugging a bigger dome down rocky entries can be a handful, as well as exiting in rough conditions. There are definite dark corners without lens correction at 20mm, so lens correction is mandatory. This zoom range is very useful for most of my diving, and I think it may end up being a popular choice underwater use for some people. I have been able to shoot Harlequin shrimp (cropped) and dolphins on the same dive. I'll upload a few more shots at various focal lengths.

Yes. If I turn 'Enable Profile Corrections' to 'On', I get the banding. The banding is more exaggerated when zooming in. At 20mm, it is negligible.

I think that is the biggest hurdle in the dry and wet contact options (from both Nauticam and now Marelux). I would LOVE to see a variety of canon options and field reviews of those lenses. Or even just field reviews of 1 or 2 lenses (like the 15-30 at 30 on the fullframe) Nauticam just pushes most lenses up to the WACP-2 if shooting full frame. So while Sony and the 28-60 is the go too - us Canon shooters are left with a few meh options and no good field reviews for many options. Please no EF lenses....

Ciao Beppe, Welcome aboard! We hope you will enjoy the forum. Ciao

Off the Monterey and Pacific Grove waterfronts the underwater environment consists of kelp forest, rocky and sandy bottoms. Around the Monterey Peninsula, kelp forests have diminished by at least 80% compared to historical averages prior to 2014. However, even with this loss there is still some nice diving at Aumentos Reef off of Pacific Grove and off the Hopkins Marine Station near the Monterey Bay Aquarium. This two minute video is from two boat dives done in August, 2025. My dive buddy Cheryl ran a reel out from the anchor. One the way back, the reel fouled but she managed to wind the line onto the reel. She is resourceful in that way. Video was shot with a Sony A7IV, 28-60mm lens and a WWL-1 in a Nauticam housing.

I have the n100 to n120, I just wasn't sure if it would be too much extension by the time you add the n120 to Marelux adapter

Ciao, I am Giuseppe and I am a PADI MSDT instructor and a "surface" hobbyist photographer. Underwater I would define me more as a casual image taker. I had the TG-6, the Insta 360 Ace Pro 1 and 2 but now I am going to go with the GoPro Mission 1 Pro and the Insta360 X5. In the future, I am planning to get the housing for the Lumix L10 since I just got the camera.

Age is a state of mind.

For what it’s worth, I just did some quick and dirty land tests with the Sony 100mm macro and the MFO1 (Sony A7SIII, uncropped 4K video mode, not stills). These are rough measurements taken from the front element of the glass to the subject. 100mm minimum focus distance without MFO1: 80 mm 100mm minimum focus distance with MFO1: 40 mm 100mm maximum focus distance without MFO1: infinity 100mm maximum focus distance with MFO1: 230 mm (quite restrictive) AF acquisition does seem slightly snappier within the MFO1's 40–230 mm focus range. I need to use it properly to confirm, but I'd just note that in my tracking video AF tests on the A7SIII with the 100mm, the lens performs better without the focus limiter (snappier) - but this carries the risk of having a much longer range to hunt on. By restricting the range, the MFO1 seems to act like an optical limiter, restricting the AF's hunting range, which on first impressions means it makes it more practical to use the 100mm without lens limiter on (and you can always flip it off for longer shots beyond the MFO1 range).

@humu9679 @ChipBPhoto thanks for your advice, I appreciate the insight! I’ll do as I’m told and take another look at getting a strobe. I’m continually finding new inspiration and will definitely check Kate Jonker out, thanks again

I’ve heard 60 is the new 40 😎

Thanks again, Markus. I ended up packing the 7D + Tokina 10-17, an iPhone in a DiveVolk and a GoPro to cover the various eventualities. My goal for the trip is to get 5-10 GREAT shots as opposed to 500 average/decent ones, and i figured the better sensor and greater crop-ability of the Canon (compared to my 8 year old Olympus) will give me that. Sadly, the seas have been rough and we havent been able to go out the first 2 days (this is day 2, and we are hoping for a mid day launch). Fingers crossed for better weather.

Am using the Canon R7.

Hi @HamsteRfury , Very exciting to get a new rig! Check out Kate Jonker (https://www.instagram.com/katejonkerphotography/) She does quite a lot of discussions and instruction around the TG series and how to maximize the results. She also just did a post on this very question regarding what is needed to build a new TG or other system. I think you will find this and her other posts quite informative and engaging. She stresses how it's not how much you spend on your rig, but rather how to use it and the strengths that camera model possesses. Regarding strobe vs video light, definitely a strobe. For photography, video lights do not provide the same amount of light as when a strobe fires. That sudden burst of light is what helps freeze motion. A video light does not offer the same. Also keep in mind that more affordable ( i.e. cheaper) video lights will shift their color and intensity as the battery drains during use. This can introduce color challenges in your photos, even when capturing in RAW. And yes, starting with 1 strobe is a great idea. There is so much that can be done with a single strobe. Most importantly, having a single strobe will allow you to master that strobe and learn the best positioning before it becomes more complicated trying to balance two. Think of learning to fly a plane with a single engine before the new pilot is allowed to fly a multiengine aircraft. While the TG has some exceptional macro capabilities, as @TimG said an add-on wide angle that will allow Close Focus Wide Angle (CFWA) will be your best friend in murky waters for those wider views. @Dave_Hicks also does some terrific CFWA in lower vis waters. In both CFWA and macro, the benefit in low viz is minimizing the the water between the lens and your subject, which also allows the best lighting on your subject. Best of luck! Cheers, chip

The least reliable advice for anything remotely technical by a large margin is AI, lost count of the number of times it has conflated a few different web pages about different models from the same manufacturer and confidently comes up with an incorrect answer. But honestly, just look at the housing - where would you put a trigger? And the AOI trigger is part of the housing and the LEDs are hard wired in so it's their trigger or no trigger, unless you want to perform surgery on your brand new housing. I would be contacting Backscatter and pointing out those issues with their advice and asking how they came up with it.

They might work but they need an additional load on top of the onboard pulse load. If you get one consider the adjustable load one. I think the PD spec is what is killing this, any low power stay on option assumes you only want to draw a little power. If the camera can last one full dive on a fresh battery the path of least resistance might to plug it into a big power bank PD rated via USB bulkhead. Of course this will compete with using an external monitor and vacuum system unless you can find one of the offset vacuum valves which allow vacuum and bulkhead on one M16 hole. Crazy price of $US590 to manufacture one on demand.

60 too….

Really not sure how it is now, with the current political situation and conflict. In the past you you to either sail or drive up to Ranong (easy drive up the highway from Khao Lak, past Takua Pa) hand in your passport for immigration processing, hop on the boat and off you go. Ranong was famous for local joints with super cheap beer, which helped kill time while waiting for the immigration process to be over. Diving-wise it can be great, but you can also get very low viz over at Black Rock, Burma Banks etc Some trips combine the Surin islands (Richelieu) with Myanmar. The maritime border is nearby, when you're at Richelieu Rock you actually see islands that belong to Myanmar just a little up north.

How legit/safe is Myanmar? The trip that could work for me leaves from Ranong, Myanmar and returns to Ranong, Thailand (are they twin cities?). It looks like it's about 6 hours from Rangon to Phuket? I'll end up having about 5 days to get from Rangon to Phuket, so may do a little land tourism.

The one I use doesn't have a trickle down mode unfortunately, and it's the only one which fits in the housing. I ran a test this morning, plugging in the powerbank and turning on the camera but not using it. Powerbank stayed on for about 20 minutes charging the camera (which went into sleep mode) before shutting down. I first saw the battery LEDs were off but the camera charging LED was still on - and when I activated the camera it was still charging. However I came back 15 minutes later and the this time the camera charging LED was off, and the camera was running on normal camera battery, powerbank completely off. I didn't check levels but I'm guessing battery level had reached 100%, so nothing was happening and the powerbank shut off completely. I ran other tests, basically camera on or off it's impossible to get past the 15 minute mark. It will work fine while diving, it's just that I like to pull the vaccum early before diving, so this limits the application quite a bit. I'm really curious about the keep alive devices and might try one. Ideally I would need a battery pack which only turns on as the camera is turned on and pulling energy, just not sure how practical this is.