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HI Dave Now there is a timing coincidence. 😊 I competed the final (I hope) print of my Z330 adapter for the OS-1 just yesterday. The optical element has a bayonet mount so that I can use less extreme restrictors - yet to be printed. I fully agree with the careful selection of screw length - while 'prototyping' I trashed the supplied optical element and had to make a plexiglass replacement ☹️. I also printed an 80mm beam restrictor (wide snoot) but am not sure if that is going to be of any use. Still, for a few cents of PETG why not. Testing due in Sulawesi in June . . . current Geopolitical disturbances allowing 🤞 Keep up the good work

Super! Soon you'll be able to print your own box! Maybe not for great depths... but it's a step in the right direction.

Backscatter Miniflash adapter for Atom Strobe Convert your OS-1 Miniflash snoot to work with your Atom Strobehttps://makerworld.com/en/models/2718050-snoot-adapter-os-1-to-atom-strobe#profileId-3010574 I have had the Backscatter Miniflash MF-1 and MF-2 strobes for many years and love the OS-1 Snoot that this small strobe was designed around. It's probably the best snoot on the market, accurate and easy to use. The new Atom strobe is more powerful than the Miniflash models, but not much bigger. It's pretty much replaced my MF-2 strobe. But I really didn't want to buy the new OS-2 snoot for it. It turns out that the new model uses the same exacted optics and lens module as the older OS-1 snoot. It just uses a new mounting part to attach to the strobe. I have designed an adapter with very similar dimensions as the OS-2 snoot, and it works perfectly. The light cards from the OS-1 will also work in the updated snoot. Directions:Remove the four M3 screws that hold the aluminum optics front end module from the OS-1 snoot. You will need a 2.5mm allen key wrench. Use four M3 20mm screws to attach the adapter to the OS-1 optics module. Do not over tighten, just slightly finger tight. Do NOT use a screw longer than 20mm or you will very likely crack the glass in the optics module. Filament Choice:I strongly suggest using the recommended PETG for this model. PLA might work in the short term, but PLA does not wear well in the water and sun. It might break unexpectedly when exposed to the elements.

Very beautyful ! Gp-tune in Davinci resolve yrgb or davinci resolve color managed? I suppose first.

Very nice read @Alex_Mustard ! Given that Don Silcock tested the prototype for approximately one year, the official announcement was back in November 2025, and we are now in April 2026, it is a little disappointing that only one lens in the Nikon system still appears to work with Seacam’s OPP. That probably says something about both the technical complexity of this optic and the level of commercial demand for it. I really hope Seacam succeeds in expanding compatibility to more camera brands and, even more importantly, to a wider range of interesting lenses.

I have already designed the n100 part. I need to borrow a Sony housing for a couple of days to refine the fit and do some vacuum testing. I'll be diving up in BC again this weekend, so perhaps I'll be able to produce the final n100 parts in a couple of weeks.

Terrific post Dave! Pinned.

Thanks to everyone for the offer of help. Chris was the fastest and the result is perfect. It's not like they were some amazing photos. Just simple illustrative frames. Let's hope it was worth the effort. Thanks again

Hi Daniel! A warm welcome to Waterpixels. Great to have you with us. Your enthusiasm shines through your introduction! Very cool. We hope you find the forum helpful and fun. Best wishes

Looks great and must try if and when i need one. But also i have to be first to ask, N100 possible also? I think the 30mm might be in high demand with alot of uses across multiple lenses.

I was at CoCoView for 15 days of diving. Loved it! It was just what I was looking for--decent accommodations, good (not great) food, and all the diving I wanted. Coupled with some world-class photography instruction by Mickey Charteris, and I couldn't be happier. The only time I saw a red light was when my finger tip was a bit damp and I inadvertently touched the moisture sensor when I was prepping the housing. A quick dry with a towel and microfiber, power cycling the housing, and all was good. The moisture sensor is very sensitive to moisture. Could you be introducing a water droplet during opening the case or getting the camera ready?

3D Printed n120 Port Body Extensions for Nauticam https://makerworld.com/en/models/2728055-n120-port-body-extensions-for-nauticam#profileId-3023087 NOTE: This is a technical print with a mission critical application. Failing to follow all of the suggested settings could result in a non-viable part. There are many accessories for Nauticam Underwater Housings. One of the most essential are Port Body Extensions that are used to configure the length and offset of Macro and Dome ports to work with specific lenses. At some point I needed multiple copies of several ports extensions to support a growing family of lenses. Rather than buying more extensions, I decided to take on the engineering challenge of 3D printing a fully watertight, pressure resistant version of the parts. The result is a full set of n120 port extensions for Nauticam housings. Others and I have made many dives to well over 100 feet / 30 meters with several of these printed port extensions. Every dive with the printed port extensions were 100% successful with no leaks or loss of vacuum. Just as good as the real thing. The one difference from the OEM part is that they don't have a locking mechanism. However, as they fit very snuggly after being rotated into position they are not going to come off. If under a vacuum or under the pressure of submersion, it would be nearly impossible for them to come off. While I have not tested much beyond about 30 meters, I have confidence that these parts are strong enough to go much deeper. In the interest of caution, I suggest not diving beyond about 40 meters with these parts. If I am able to conduct tests to greater depths, I will update this suggestion. NOTE: Just as with OEM ports, I recommend having a strap wrench available to help remove port extensions if you have trouble doing it by hand. If port extensions are left installed for an extended period, the lubrication will dry and it may be very hard to rotate the port off. For better leverage, keep the port extension locked to the housing and rotate the port off. Use the strap wrench if you need more leverage and grip. Rubber gloves also help with grip. Print Plates with the most common extension sizes are included: 1. 20mm 2. 30mm 3. 35mm 4. 40mm 5. 50mm 6. 70mm If you need a size not included, let me know and I can easily generate a new one from the Parametric CAD model. Before diving a housing and camera using these port extensions I strongly suggest first: · Test the seal with an empty housing on the bench using the vacuum circuit for 24 hours. · Perform a test dive with an empty housing to gain confidence in the seal and strength of the printed part. Print Preparation: To get the strongest and most successful part possible, it is recommend to use a printer with a heated chamber and two print nozzles. The support material will be stronger and cleaner with a second nozzle. Using a single nozzle can weaken the part. The H2D, H2C, and X2D all meet this criteria in April 2026. Printing ASA or ABS without a 65C heated chamber will result is weaker layer bonds. You want this part to be as strong as possible. I have also created versions of this part with PETG, but not tested this material in the water. If you choose to attempt PETG, the settings for filament and slicer listed below should be largely the same. (substitute nozzle temps 5C higher than the default for PETG rather than the ASA values suggested) After printing, carefully remove all of the support material. Be careful not to scratch or dent the sealing surfaces in particular. These are o-ring groove, and the inner surface at the top of the ring. The sealing surfaces should be filed and sanded using medium grit 400 and fine grit 1200 sandpaper. After sanding wash the part with soap and water using a toothbrush. Repeat sanding if necessary after inspection. Install a Nauticam original o-ring in the printed port extension. Apply a light sheen of white PTFE lubricant such as Nauticam provides. (Tribolube, Cristolube) Do not use Silicone lube on these silicone orings as this can cause the orings to swell and leak. Vacuum test the printed port body extension and o-ring in your Nauticam housing for at least 24 hours before attempting to use it underwater. If the vacuum circuit changes from Green to Flashing Yellow or Red, you have a bad seal. More sanding or a full reprint may be required. Note: if the vacuum circuit light is Solid Yellow or Red, that indicates a weak battery in the circuit. Install a fresh battery and retest for 24 hours. Print Profile Settings: Filament Settings: · Bambulabs ASA dried for 12 hours · Flow Ratio: 1.1 · Shrinkage 99.5 · Retraction .55mm · Nozzle Temp: 270 / 275C · Bambulabs Support for ASA dried for 12 hours Slicer Settings: · .4mm nozzle · .1mm layer height · 10 wall perimeters · .5mm outer wall, inner wall, top surface · 1.5 bridge flow · Concentric top / bottom surface pattern · 2mm top / bottom shell thickness · 100% infill (with 10 wall there should be NO infill) · 150mm/s outer and inner wall speed · 100mm/s top surface speed · 25mm/s bridge speed · Enable Support ON · Tree(auto) support in Tree Organic Style · On build plate only ON · Remove small overhangs ON · Support base DEFAULT · Support interface SupABS · Top Z distance 0

Hello everyone! Daniel here. I am just starting my underwater photography journey after almost 30 years of diving! I've been casually shooting video with a GoPro for years, and just recently, on a dive vacation, I switched it to photo mode, and something happened....something clicked (of course, not the GoPro though). Since then, my good friend has helped me get into a beautiful setup, and it's like a whole new world has opened up again. It's like the excitement of learning to dive all over again! I am so excited to learn from this amazing community, improve my skills, and share some cool photos along the way. Feel free to say hi 👋 Current setup: Olympus E-M1 Mark II Nauticam housing Inon Z-330 strobes Named "Iris" ❤️ Happy diving to all!

Thanks Dave!

No, it is blinking red. Which means test failed. Yet it retains vacuum and went on many dives with no leakage.

which is even worse, 300 dpi on the web means absolutely nothing, pixel dimensions is all that is required.

Does it go constant yellow? If it is flashing yellow no joy, if it is flashing yellow/red no joy. Not an issue I have seen. Bill

If you still need it, I will give it a go in 3 different AI upscaling approaches. BVA

BUMP for Best Offer!

Yes, probably. Moreover nowadays nobody print anything. All marketing and published material is on the web.

Perhaps he needs to pump it a few more strokes so that changes temperature don't cause the red light. I usually give my (Nauticam) vacuum system a couple of pumps past when the light turns green.

I just uploaded a new design for a Optical Sync Cable Port for Nauticam Housings. @Grantmac and others have been asking for these for a while. They feature a cool, print-in-place rotating turret just like the OEM part. https://makerworld.com/en/models/2726041-optical-sync-cable-port-for-nauticam-housings#profileId-3020623

Optical Sync Cable Port for Nauticam HousingsThese plastic caps for the optical ports of your Nauticam Underwater Housing are one of the most lost and misplaced items in all of underwater photography! This design is a perfect replacement or spare part to carry with you on scuba diving expeditions. It fits any standard 7mm connector on underwater sync cables. It features a print in place rotating turret just like the OEM original part. Print these connectors in PETG for best results in underwater and outdoor environments. PLA may work initially but will likely swell, crack, or otherwise fail eventually. Print with PETG enabling supports and specify PLA support interface so the turret part breaks free successfully. After removing the tree supports from the center, use a long thin pick to remove the PLA support interface ring. An outer brim may help to ensure a successful print. https://makerworld.com/en/models/2726041-optical-sync-cable-port-for-nauticam-housings#profileId-3020623 If you want to make your own Sync Cables, see my other model for sync connectors and details to source multi-core fiber. https://makerworld.com/en/models/846729-diy-optical-fiber-sync-cable-connectors#profileId-1454437

The lower price of the Maxi should ease some of the analysis paralysis. It's 8mm wider, not a significant difference at the end of the day. If you add in the 16 or even 32 AA batteries you need to carry for the Max Pro II strobes, you come out way ahead for the Maxis in the packing size and weight comparison. I pack four 21700 cells for a pair of Maxi (or HF-1) strobes, and two more 21700's for my focus light. The focus light is good for two dives, so it gets swapped more often. The strobes will be good for at least two days of diving at 500 shots/day with capacity to spare. A single 4-cell charger will take care of everything.

Well, dang, what to do, what to do----. Looks like either has enough power to boil water or fry fish. Just the case size bugs me for the Maxi but I suppose I am just fixating as I oft do.