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Hi- I literally went on my first dive and the shackle on my Nauticam clamp fell off- when I check Amazon there’s a bunch of different size shackles I can buy- does anyone know what size would be equivalent? Thanks

I'm in the middle of upgrading housing (first dives this week) and next task will be strobes and arms. BUT im currently stuck with my old setup. I find it VERY bulky and messy, especially "folded" (it doesn't - it flops). Its huge, its bulky, its negative. They're DS161s from Ikelite. I currently have: 2 x 8" Float arms 2 x 7" normal arms 2 x 4"ish normal arms I use 2 x SUPE video lights on a 3 way elbow mid arm. This is my WA setup for a Tokina 10-17 on APS-C to give FOV ideas. Its bulky, messy and due to 10 year old clamps, floppy. For my wide angle, am i better off keeping this setup OR make it neater by replacing the 7" normal size arms with my 5" arms i found in a cupboard (so 1 x 8 and 1 x 5 per side). Are there any real trade-offs for WA here vs improved in neatness? Now I've gone mirrorless the abomination of strobe wiring and arms is even more obvious. Pictures are the 8" and 4" on the WA setup. Can see its not neat at all, especially when "stowed" and holding the camera by the rope it just flops forward off balance. No easy way to carry. I find it ridiculously ungainly and so do boat crew trying to handle it. So sugestions: (i) best compromise WA arm length combo (ii) Best order of arms and clamps to make it usable U/W but also neater to stow/fold.

That would be truly fantastic Dave. I'm sure a lot of Sony shooters will be interested in something for the new Sony 100mm, especially with a flip, as it will be quite nose heavy to begin with. Housing is here, camera body and lens are ordered, last piece of the puzzle are Nauticam goodies (125 port and MFO3 + MFO1) It's perfect timing as I'll be spending a lot of time on balance and buoyancy, and was really wondering how I'd go about balancing out the port + flip combo.

130 degree view, compact and a joy to use. Can be used with an array of cameras/lenses with 24mm equivalent lens. AI can check if you can use it with your rig. I use it with a Nikon Z50 in Nauticam with the NIKKOR Z DX 16-50mm f/3.5-6.3 VR.

Super spiff! You need to bedazzle those rings! Glad to hear they worked well for you on your trip. 😀

PLUS some blue reduction rings. Thanks Dave for sharing the files. The reductions fit perfect and did a great job reducing backscatter on my Philippines trip March/April

What lens is that used for?

Awesome idea! An N120 port 125 would also be much appreciated!

BTW - The port float rings were designed to accommodate the Nauticam dual flip adapter and have sufficient clearance. It is pretty much the main reason I made these.

I will get some n100 designs created before long. So many Sony Shooters around these parts. 😀

Wow fantastic I've just started looking into float option for the N100 Macro Port n125 (for a Sony FE 100mm F2.8), and this looks so clean compared to a float collar! I'd really need a solution like this as I will have a double flip (if not a triple) on the lens as well...

Sure, lets meet for a dive and I can borrow some parts afterwards. You'll get in a dive and should have that itch scratched for a few days at least! Any time, I am free most of the week.

I need to get you my N100 Port 105 if I can stop using it all the time.

I'm now looking into similar solutions for my future A7SIII rig - I would need a bit more depth under the housing for floats though. May I ask what are the cheese plates you sourced on Amazon? I've been looking around a bit on Amazon Japan but can only find two types of smallrig cheese plates. Thanks! Ben

Macro Port Buoyancy Float for Nauticam n120https://makerworld.com/en/models/2784346-macro-port-buoyancy-float-for-nauticam-n120#profileId-3094935 Add clean, professional looking buoyancy to your Nauticam housing with these waterproof, pressure resistant buoyancy float rings. Up to 355g of buoyancy! (12.5 ounces) Models for:Port 60 (60mm AF-S) / +235g buoyancy Port 87 (105mm AF-S or z105mm) / +350g buoyancy Port 60+20mm extension (z105mm) / +280g buoyancy Underwater camera housings are quite heavy and tend to be negative in the water, requiring the addition of buoyancy floats to get the rig near neutral in the water. Typically, this is done with high density foam floats on the strobe arms. Another option is a float collar on the ring. I found these to be really ugly, and non-professional looking and figured I could try to make something better. As a fun an interesting experiment I decided to try and create a cleaner solution by 3D printing a custom fitted hollow float ring that snugs up to the contours of my Nauticam n120 macro ports. A float ring on the port has the added benefit of better balancing the entire rig, especially if you are using heavy glass diopters on the macro port. After a great deal of experimentation, advice from others, and testing I have developed a very good solution that is extremely durable and functional. With several hundred dives completed without any leaks or failures on dives up to 120 feet (40 meters) of depth, I am pleased to share the models with others that would like to make their own. I first posted about this project over a year ago. After hundreds of dives and some minor iteration changes, I am confident enough with this design to share it freely for others. It's printed in ABS or ASA and requires no additional sealants or treatments to be completely watertight and pressure resistant to 40 meters. These float rings are fantastic in the water. The provide a clean, professional look, added buoyancy, but also better balance of the whole rig when using heavy glass diopters up front.

Yes, the Retra Maxi strobes would be quite sporty with such lovely blue accesories! 😁

I am using the MFO-3 with a Z8/105mm in an Aquatica housing on a flip holder. It works better than I thought it would. As others said, it is like having two very different lenses on the same dive. I sold my Nikon 60mm micro lens since the IQ of the 105 + MFO-3 is better, and it is more convenient.

Do you use the EVF exclusively, or do you use the back screen? And do you have the camera in Airplane Mode? I also rotate between 3 batteries to reduce wear. I only use the EVF, which I suspect uses less power than the rear screen. And no need for wifi/bluetooth underwater. Even shooting some video for a few minutes across dives, I've still only run down the Z8 to zero once in about 300 dives with it to date. I was stretching it out on a 4-dive day and had several rapid action encounters were I really racked up the shutter count.

A big advantage of the Kraken bulkhead over the Nauticam one is that the Kraken is compatible with a higher number of Nauticam housings than the Nauticam plug because the cable on the Nauticam is not removable and the one on the Kraken is which makes a huge difference in favor of Kraken. I experienced this on the NA-GH5: the 90° USB-C plug simply won't go through the M16 port while on other housing like NA-Z8, it inserts well into the M16. The difference on the housing is just the thread length on the NA-GH5 that is longer than its equivalent on NA-Z8. I wish Nauticam has made a bulkhead with a removable cable. I've solved this issue on the NA-GH5 by using Kraken bulkheads. With the proper adapter (like I it), you can even fit it on a M14 port.

Those strobes need some bumpers and more Blue Accents to match the floats!

Prepping for a pool day to get the new strobes wet. Does not look outlandish! Getting the NA-6400 ready for Cozumel in a few weeks. You know, Nauticam, would you please offer silver anodizing! I am so sick of black. I bought a black 15" MacAir and it shows every finger print and scratch. Meanwhile my old silver MacBook Pro 15 from 2012.5 looks new. And while at, maybe do a little better job on the anodizing.

These PD bulkheads are double sealed, the inside is sealed and then there is a cap with an O-ring seal. Two seals would have to fail to flood the camera. LOL, Kraken stuff, Intova stuff, expect it to fail, I did get several years of use out of my Kraken focus light before it flooded through the lens. Same with my Intova light. I bought new ones recently, fingers crossed I get some years from them. My Nauticam PD bulkhead charges my camera fast enough. I have to use an adapter from C to mini anyways. Does the new Kraken PD have a plug on the bottom of the bulkhead or is the cable integrated and cannot be removed?

Still have a DUI drysuit and a few boats and 2 compressors and lots of tanks at age 73-started in 83-thats 1983 for you youngsters .I'm getting weary of heavy weights and cold water (not yet giving it up). I'm diving with divegypsy for that month in Bali with 3 ikeilte strobes and 5 ports and a full frame d850 in a Nauticam housing that weights 25# on land. along with lost of extension rings and lights. Tim G when you decide you are old and weak its over. Like that classic line -you better get busy diving or dyeing .My two bags are 69# each flying from California. to Bali. When you move tons of clay for 50 years its all heavy stuff-Life is heavy

If those rumors are all true, I might look into one as a spare body.