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TRT is a solid piece of kit, i have used the Smart 3 for Sony 6+ months now. I was going back and forth between TRT and UW-Technics and chose TRT due to the slick looks and easy firmware updates. Representatives of both triggers are somewhat active here on waterpixels, so you can ask any questions from them. Maybe the Underwater Light & Magic trigger could be for you? Its full manual and cheap, but i dont know about HSS/Rear curtain. But im sure he will hook you up if its possible, seems like a fellow tinkerer like yourself ;)

Ouch - really sorry to hear that man, really sad to hear that people would take advantage of such a situation, when divers are still in the water. This is a long (and very delicate) shot, but if you have a local contact from the area you were diving in, maybe try to get in touch with the Banjar? Since the people who picked up the camera are known and are local, the banjar they belong to might be able to intervene (factor in a donation fee...). Bombarded with fishing lines from the shore you say? What the hell?

The Nauticam manual flash trigger included with their Nikon housing is very basic. It does not support HSS or Rear Curtain features. I would like to enable these features, so I need to get a new flash trigger. I'd like it to work with both Retra and BS strobes. The TRT i-Turtle SMART 3 MANUAL trigger explicitly calls out that it supports these features with Nikon including support for Backscatter and Retra strobes. No support for TTL. The UW-Technics 11032-HSS-TTL trigger also calls out support for Backscatter and Retra, but includes TTL for over $240 more. Except TTL doesn't work with Backscatter. I don't need or want TTL, so I am inclined to try out the Turtle trigger at a better price. Does anyone have some experience with this or similar Turtle trigger? Are there other products I should consider?

That’s what I’m currently using. Just wondered if making the HF-1 more neutral on its own might make it easier to use.

@waso thanks this is kinda what I had in mind.

Yes. I tried the smc2.. and oh my... Good results but hard to nail down. Smc1 is easier to manage. Good note on the particle bit.

I'll send you printed one for the cost of postage. If you are brave enough to try it! I want more testers. Pull a vacuum for a few days and give it a dive without the camera to build confidence. Run it over with your car, whatever. Anyway, I've been using a 40mm for the last month on about 20 dives, several past 100 feet. Another diver has been using a 20mm successfully as well. Plus you can choose black, white, or blue! :)

Hey all, Looking for a Nauticam N120 Extension Ring 25. Prefer a US based seller. Please DM me if you or a friend has one to sell. Thanks! Chip

Correct and good strategy. Just remember a TC + an SMC is next level of difficulty. Also keep in mind the further you are away from the subject, the more chance of particles in the water column between the lens and subject. Your lighting output will also need to be increased. Sounds like you already understand that part. Let us know how it goes!

For many years, I've used various floatings of different sizes and shapes on different strobes and strobe arms from a German manufacturer who started the production at my request. I find it very inconvenient to compensate the entire downforce using only floating arms, as I want to be able to quickly and easily reposition the strobes with minimal friction on the last clamp, without them tipping downwards due to gravity. Incidentally, the floatings have no negative impact on the heat sinks.

Wow Tim, I can’t begin to imagine how traumatic everything about that experience must have been. So glad you’re OK! Thank for writing up the cautionary tale. My wife and I will be on a liveaboard next month and we’re already planning our contingencies with heightened attention. I have learned during decades of travel in dozens of countries that automating up-to-date backups of critical data is so important. My phone is backed up to iCloud and everything else to OneDrive, daily when connected, so I can recover from any device and location.

The HF-1 strobes are 8 ounces negative in saltwater if I recall. The Retra Maxi are neutral to slightly buoyant. A half pound hanging off the arms is quite a lot IMO. Yes, my ball ends/O-rings are worn out but still, with the Maxi I do not need to clamp them down, with the HF-1 set I tried I did, otherwise soon they were dragging in the sand. Of course, if I am swimming hard into a current, the S220 strobes, which are slightly negative but so small they produce little drag do not swing back or down. I expect the Retras/HF-1 and other similar full size strobes to be noticeable in such condition and will need me to pull the arms inward and tighten the clamps when in transit from A critter to B critter. The Atoms AF-1 is nearly six ounces negative, that is still quite a bit negative. Adding floats to compensate bulks the rig up so the question to me becomes large neutral strobes or very negative nearly as large strobes with bulked up floats on the arms, pick the poison. My NA-6400 was about 4 ounces, maybe 6 ounces negative with the S220 strobes or slightly less and now with the Retras it is neutral in the same configuration. With the HF-1 strobes it was a brick and would plummet to the bottom.

Nope but worth a shot

Wet lenses are attached to the port, and increase magnification. Less magnification is easier to work with, and in my opinion, should be what manufacturers use to label their lenses (+6, +2, +12) rather than the names they give them: UCL-167 or SMC-1, which means little when you’re trying to compare lenses. Teleconverters do something different, which increases the focal length of the native lens, and allows for greater working distance and, ultimately, magnification. This is probably easier to use, though I’ve never done this, if you can get used to the increased focal length of the lens. A 100mm lens with a 1.4x converter will be 140mm, for instance. “High” f-stops? The higher the number, the smaller the aperture, e.g. f/16, and increased depth of field, which is desirable when you have razor thin zones of focus. f/2.8, for example is wide open with your lens. Hope this helps, and I’m sure others out there will help correct any of my misconceptions.

Aloha and welcome @Terri I'm a Sony user, but I have to say that the mad rush to full frame isn’t all it’s cracked up to be. Call it sensor envy. I have a full frame body and housing, but I’d prefer to use the smaller lenses that cropped sensors provide. My A6700s are thus far unhoused. I love the idea of large sensor compacts, too. There are a lot of cameras out there but we’re always looking for perfect, eh? Hauling them around is also a thing to consider.

You have tried positioning the monitor forward over the extension when in use?

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For sale used Nauticam Macro to Wideangle conversion Lens . 86201 The glass has no marks , there are a few marks on the fins From normal usage underwater and a few marks on the body. It come with everything in photograph . M67 to bayonet converter Neoprene port cover Rear lens cap Padded carrying bag Also included is the double flip adaptor ,which has a few wear and tear marks . Please read the Nauticam port charts to confirm it works with your set up. This is less than half price even with the flip included. £1000.00 UK based

You can contact Saga Dive, as they can mill one for either a Seacam or Subal type 4 to Nauticam N120. They did Seacam to N120 for me last year.

Looking for a Nauticam 120 system adaptor to subal type 4 or Seacam for my hybrid system. Please send me a PM if you have one you can part with.

Hi Terri! 👋🏻

TTL is the way to go so thanks for making TTL work thru more stobes

I'm in Bali for month shooting under water- (Tulmaben area)I'll keep a look out.

Hi, Anyone interested in 2 BigBlue 9" Jumbo Float Arms? Dia. 90 x 228mm weight above water: 349g each, buoancy lift: 697g each Asking for 120€+shipping from Europe

Thanks... So if I put a 1.4x/2x on. I can shoot something further away... Then... If I then add in a wet lens... I will have to get closer... I am thinking of faster moving object that I can't really get too close to use the 1.4x/2x. If I see a subject like a lovely calm nudi... I can still pop on a wet lens to get details....