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Hi Pidan A warm welcome to Waterpixels. We hope you really enjoy the forum. Good to know you too! Best wishes

Thank you! Yes, all 3 of them 😎

Hi, I’m Pidan from Shenzhen, China. I currently hold a Sony RX100VA camera with INON wet lens. I’m looking for opportunity to upgrade my system in order to have better quality photos and videos. Nice to know you!

@Alex_Mustard was allowed a test drive in Raja Ampat with this lens and shares his experience on the show:

When the fisheye/domeport positioning is corrct, there is no reason why the sample images between UW and on the surface should be different. If not, not only optical flaws, but also barell- and pincushion distortion will be pronounces/enhanced, depending on how wrong the positioning is... Here a link to some samle photos taken with the 7-14mm fisheye lens: https://www.dpreview.com/products/canon/lenses/canon_rf_7-14_2p8-3p5_fisheye_l_stm/sample-photos

When I made my first batch - which led to the original article - I used scissors. The cables worked perfectly in Manual with my Retra strobes. But not in TTL (which I rarely use). It was a conversation with Oskar at Retra that highlighted that scissor cuts were the issue. I recut using a box cutter (aka Stanley knife) and the TTL issue was solved.

Kinda hard to find comparable images and both lenses are so good that it is splitting hairs. These are all the 8-15. The cage gives a pretty good indication of corner sharpness (we do experiments to understand the role of human activities in the ocean and the cages are how we understand the role of fishing). Also 8-15. I find the corners are not ALWAYS amazing on the 8-15... but I think I often have the corners out of the DoF and blame the lens rather than focus and user.

A couple of points on this, equidistant and equisolid angle projections are quite close to each other and while lenses are described as such, they probably do not strictly conform to the ideal model. So telling the difference between them from a random photo may be difficult. Ideally you would want a photo of a brick wall or similar taken with the each of the lenses with a tripod in the same position so you can see how the stretching varies. This link for example shows some measurements taken from optical formulas, look at the second and thirs plots where various lenses have been plotted on the curve, they mostly cluster around equisolid but there is quite a variation. https://www.photonstophotos.net/GeneralTopics/Lenses/Optics_Primer/Optics_Primer_25.htm Other references state the equisolid has more barrel distortion so more fisheye effect - the forward placement of the subject in the frame. This link has some projections plotted - it takes some time to look at the plots to see the differences in equisolid and equidistant if you look at orthographic and sterographic plots they are more exaggerated versions of the changes between the first two: https://paulbourke.net/dome/fisheyetypes/

I'll give DaVinci a try.

DIY n120 Port Extensions for Nauticam Housings I have been working on water-tight, pressure-proof 3D prints for a while now. I've been using some Port Floats for well over a year now that are still in perfect shape without a failure up to 100ft/30m across over one hundred dives. I recently bought an old Olympus Zen glass dome port that should provide some perfect glass for a Curved 60mm Macro Port. I want to make a port body to receive the glass for that project. I figured a good stepping-stone along that path would be to first make a Port Body Extension Ring. Afterall, it is just a port that opens on both ends. :) I made a rough draft design last week and iterated 5 or 6 prints tweaking the design and precise dimensions to get a perfect fit. I experimented with different materials as well, trying PETG, ABS, and finally ASA. The PETG prints came out fairly good, but I find that my printers just do a better, cleaner job with ABS or ASA. Smoother, cleaner, less stringing. ABS and ASA are also lighter weight and stronger in most ways than PETG along with better temperature resistance in hot environments. The final ASA protype print that I made was the cleanest off the print plate of all the iterations. I am using the same printing parameters that worked for watertight port floats, but these are much thicker and stronger. Testing: I have only tested the 3D printed port extensions by pulling a vacuum in the housing. No leaks after 24 hours. The next step is to test under pressure. Lacking any sort of pressure testing apparatus, I will probably just dive it to 30 meters in my old D850 housing with no camera installed. Any suggestions on how or where to "Safely" pressure test a housing locally in Seattle would be welcome. Ideally, I would want this to work to at least 50 or 60 meters so provide a safety margin. For reference, Nauticam advertises 100-150 meters. The port bodies are 12-14mm thick. My port floats have not failed at 30meters and they are only 2mm thick. CoPilot AI seems to think it should be good to about 17bar or 173 meters. I decided to make 20mm and 40mm extensions to start with. My CAD design is parametric, so I can just plug in any value from about 15mm on up to create the model. I have not tweaked the design for n100 size ports, but that should be straightforward if I pursue that option. I have several lens combos that need extension: 20mm: 60mm macro port + 20mm for the Nikon 105Z lens 140mm dome port + 20mm for the Nikon 8-15mm fisheye lens 40mm: 140mm dome port + 20mm + 20mm extension for the Nikon 8-15mm + 1.4 teleconverter 70mm: 8.5" dome port + 70mm for the Nikon 16-35mm lens I use the 105mm and 8-15mm fisheye all the time. I bought a second 20mm extension so I can shoot both conveniently. However, I need to swap them around all the time if I want to shoot both the 105 and 8-15+TC in the same time frame. A 40mm port body dedicated to the 1.4TC setup would be a terrific addition to my collection. A quick note on pricing of various options: Saving money is NOT the goal here, it is much more about the satisfaction of building something myself. And building something that is unique and otherwise not for sale anywhere, like a custom Curved Macro Port. But it is interesting just to show what is possible. Printing with ASA costs about $2 USD in filament and 20-30 minutes of post processing labor, sanding, etc. Nauticam sells a 20mm extension for $390, 40mm for $430 USD. A rough quote from PCBWay is $165+shipping for an anodized aluminum CNC manufactured 40mm part based on my design. Sunk cost: Bambu P1S 3D printer sells for $399. One roll of ABS filament is $20 and enough to make ~10 port bodies. Labor cost for a retired engineer pursuing a passion project: $0/hour Here are few images of the port bodies: 20mm and 40mm: PETG, ABS, ASA. A Nauticam 20mm is over 200g. My ABS 20mm is 95g, the 40mm is 150g. 40mm ASA with Nauticam 70mm 40mm port body with 170mm dome port - Vacuum testing with Nauticam housing

I didn't say special, I said right - and scissors are the wrong tool, I recall someone saying they used scissors and had problems with their cables.

White balance and colour grading is similar just color grading can't go as far, DaVinci can do that for you in the free version. It should work if it's close to balanced. I don't do much video, but I managed to grade a clip from a TG6 shot just using the UW white balance setting. Turning a completely green clip blue would be a stretch, but if you make some attempt to do a custom white balance it should work OK for you.

FS: Aquatica D500 housing AD500 with accessories This well-maintained housing has been used without any flooding. As you can see in the photos, it is very clean. The items for sale are - Aquatica D500 housing include airlock system,pump,Fiber optic version - Aquatica Slim Mini Macro Port - Aquatica 8-inch Acrylic Dome(No scratches other than fine ones, Neoprene cover) - Aquatica Locking Port Extension: 16.5mm/0.65 inch - Aquatica Locking Port Extension: 46.5mm/1.83 inch - Aquatica LED Flash Trigger. - Aquatica Zoom Gear: Tokina 12-24mm - 2X custom-made optical cables Retail price is over $5,500 and asking US$2,500 include free shipping worldwide from South Korea but ask me first. For more information, please contact me [email protected]

I’m heading to Cozumel for a dive trip on April 15! If you want this kit in time for your spring dives, the last day I can ship is Friday, April 10. Skip the retail backorders—this is a complete, factory-fresh Octo setup (housing replaced 08/25) with low shutter count and all the necessary gears/ports. Ready to dive immediately!

Thanks. No big deal really. We'll get it figured out I'm sure

@Troporobo Check out our new campaign-- https://letoursalmoncomehome.org

Hmm, sounds like I need to turn tail and flee! I don't care enough to shoot and process RAW video. I guess the best I can do is a bit of tint & temperature tweaks in ClipChamp.

I use the following solution when it's needed: https://yellowdiving.eu/yellow-diving-home/yellow-diving-products/accessories/vm/

Hi Dave, Do you mean color grade or white balance? Only way to white balance is shoot raw and then there is not a great option for cost effective programs. Davinchi Resolve (the free version) is the one that I have always been pointed to for color grading for those that don't have access to Premier (Which is stupid expensive and a subscription...hate the model). I shot raw video a few times and ran away. Not worth the WB in post. Best.

Thanks for the info, I do have a monitor and love shooting with it so that's a plus. I liked the mount but wasn't sure if I'd be shooting forward or sideways. Sent you a PM for the mount files.

I I don't do a lot of video editing but when I do I often want to change the white balance in a short clip. Most of the free and basic video editing apps that I have tried can't change white balance. I don't want to spend a lot of money or get an expensive subscription, so can anyone recommend a simple video editor that is able to change white balance at a low cost.

In my experience shooting stills with the camera forward is very challenging, although a monitor or possibly angled eyepiece would help. The mount I designed has detents at 90 degree increments and has a toolless camera removal which works okay underwater.

Wow, someone found a way to charge $50 for a box cutter blade that sells in bulk for $5 per 100 count. :) I am sure that sort of precise alignment is important in some networking applications, but it's way overkill for this purpose.

With the right tool of course - no scissors! You don't need any special tools to cut fiber. I just use a >fresh< sharp utility cutter blade. Put the cable on a block of wood, lay the blade over the cut point, tap it with a small hammer to make a fast clean cut. Works perfectly every time.