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You should bring up the Insta360 AcePro2 on your radar. It‘s slightly more capable than the GoPro and the Osmo with the out of the box footage. Personally I use Insta360 AcePro (version1) as a small secondary cam and that one already smokes the other cams around. Due to the larger sensor and leica optics of the insta you already notice slight performance differences in the underwater optics. I have tested AOI, Backscatter and INON underwater action cam optics and found the INON image quality to be slightly superior than the others. There was also a thread here somewhere on the forums seconding my personal impressions about the superiority of the INON action camera optics.

Hello @Nando Diver did you try EXPL to lock exposure? I didnt find the command within QRControl app...

It might be hit and miss. I've travelled with a lot of batteries before and never had any confiscations... plenty of questions though.

Nice box.... but for sure in Zurich / CH you will have some problems at the security check... that is to many batterie ... the rules are strict.... 2 x 16 AA bat... is allready to much for a person. I was lucky to be with my wife I gave him one set... other wise ... :(

Just an update on my personal experience with the MF-2s: I am now using one MF-2 with the snoot together with one MF-1 and this works fine. Even without HF-1 there is plenty of light for small subjects (e.g. nudies). I am still not convinced that two MF-2s (without snoot) are plenty of light for how I shoot macro and prefer the HF-1s (altough they are big). For snooting, however, I find the MF-2 very usable.. I am certainly interested in the new HF-1 snoot, but have now mixed feelings about the HF-1s (that performed until now): one broke during the holidays in Tansania (Mafia Island) where I am still for another week. The ON/OFF switch first made droubles, sometimes it worked, sometimes not and after few days of diving it broke completely (no more possible to switch the flash ON despite of full, fresh, batteries). The other HF-1 still works, but the ON/OFF switch also does not work reliably (I almost lost one dive because I could not switch the HF-1 ON UW (I only had the MF-2 with (and without) snoot for making photos during this dive)). => I will send both HF-1s in after I am back and will then decide whether to stay with HF-1s or switch to another big flash, unreliability is really a contraindication and at the moment I am really pissed off at the moment (I also have still my Z330s at home))...☹️

Thanks, @Alex_Mustard ! Would you be willing to share your setup file for your A1 here at all?

Sony FE 90mm f/2.8 Macro G OSS for sale. one small blemish on the side that does not affect performance. The lens has been recently serviced by Sony Pro Support and is in good working order. This gear has served me well after being purchased new from Reef Photo and video in 2020, and has been used almost exclusively in freshwater stream environments. N100 Flat port is in great shape with no hard water damage, or defects in the glass, and has a well taken care of o-ring seal. Focus Ring works as it should, and is very helpful for the use of DMF in-water. Price: $1,300 USD (excluding postage and transaction fees) Payment options: PayPal F&F or PayPal Goods & Services (+3%) or in-person transactions (located in the Pacific Northwest).

Seen a few ideas out there to carry batteries effectively through airport security in carry-on. My recent trip to Japan was plagued with small containers of batteries jiggling about in a small carry bag. I decided to do something about it. The outer case is from Amazon. https://amzn.asia/d/0FsoNPo I 3d printed the inner two sections in PETG or ASA (either/or - doesnt matter). Optimised for the range of batteries i may typically take with me. My camera batteries are in a different holder in my camera backpack. I keep track of spent batteries by turning them upside down (-ve facing up). The top section holds the random usb cables in have. Much better than a bag of random boxes of batteries.

Hi Phil, one thing to note is that in reality the WWL is not equivalent to a 10mm rectilinear. They both have a 130° Diagonal field of view, but the horizontal field with WWL/WACP is about that of a 14mm rectilinear lens which has a 104° horizontal field while the 10 mm Laowa has a 121° horizontal field. This is due to the barrel distortion stretching the corners. So the correct lens to compare it to is a 14mm rectilinear behind a dome. The 14mm has more magnification and so less DOF. Would you say that the WWL still has less DOF than a 14mm rectilinear behind a dome?

Adding to the MFO-3 posts, I had a chance to try the lens with my A7C and 90mm macro in our wonderful Puget Sound Seattle water yesterday AM. The rock fish pics are with the MFO-3 and without, from about the same distance from the fish. The Sea Angel was just flapping in the water column and is about a centimeter in length, so approximates a lot of the Hawaiian blackwater critters. For blackwater, I think this provides a very nice solution from what I'm seeing. Storing the lens is a little more difficult than the smaller CNC diopters and I usually use the bayonet mount. I can see why a flip holder is going to work out a better! There was also negligible weighting issues with that lens being so far out in front. Only one dive so far, but this looks like a great lens. .

No info on DJI but GoPro is decent. I moved from a Hero 7 to a Hero 13 last year. This year I added a wet lens and HF1 lights, but I haven’t used the new rig yet.

For the original poster, Alex I have used both the Sony 28-60 and 28-70 kit lenses with WACP-1 (native N120) and both also work with WACP-1B (native N100). The 28-70 uses an additional 20mm of extension, does not focus as fast as FE 26-60 and if you look at many land reviews the 28-60 out performs the 28-70. In real world use with water contact lenses you won't see large differences between the two lenses in terms of IQ. I don't think it's a big mystery that a kit lens introduced by Sony in 2021 would have improved over a Sony kit lens introduced in 2013. By the introduction of the WACP-C I had sold the 28-70 so can only comment on WACP-1, however I would expect results to be about the same. Since I rarely used the 70 or 60mm end of the lenses I don't miss the difference. Any comments from wet pixel you may have seen would I believe reference overall performance not just IQ. I have found best results with both lenses to be in the F/8 to F/11 range even though with full frame my normal starting point is F/13+/- I reviewed the WACP-C and both the WWL-1 and WWL-1B in past issues of UWPMAG.com. As a sidebar the first Nauticam wet wide lens I tested was the WWL-1 and I used the Sony 28mm F/2 lens for that review because 28-60mm was not yet released. Nauticam still offers an N100 32 flat port for that lens but it is not shown on the port charts for use with WWL-1/1B. Last what is hardly ever talked about when involved in a wet wide lens discussion regardless of brand is Depth Of Field. While many of these lenses advertise a 130 degree diagonal AOV it has become clear to me and many others who have used these lenses extensively that DOF is far less than what you get with a lens of the same 130 degree AOV behind a dome port. This became blatantly obvious to me when I tested the Laowa 10mm F/2.8 a 130 degree rectilinear lens against images taken with wet lenses of the same130 AOV.

Have a look at the table they are comparing 4 different lenses to the 28-60 and saying the 28-70 is not as good as the 28-60. Copyright © 2025 WaterPixels. All Rights Reserved Powered by Invision Community

Amazing images again, Dave

Went 2 years ago, the hard coral was in rough shape. Alot of our diving was on the west side, judging by the number of dive boats I saw that side gets alot of pressure. We did go to a few sites farther away on the southern side and they were a little better.

This is wildly wishful thinking David. We are comparing the Caribbean to how much of it looked 5 or 10 years ago. There has been a dramatic and rapid decline. The sad part is that we will likely be saying the same things about the fabulous Pacific dive spots in another 5 or 10 years as they continue and accelerate their decline.

I think the problem is people keep wanting to compare fabulous Pacific dive spots to the Caribbean.... They're two world apart destinations, different amount of population, infrastructure and more....Each will be different plus the time since someone visited last and other factors will influence one's opinion. I could dive the same island year after year and each trip will have different temperature, visibility, animal encounters, etc. Example: The Mantas at "Manta Point" won't necessarily get your memo of taking a week from work or life and you'll be arriving !!!!! LOL......Plus who knows WHEN a site got named that and by whom....... After 5 decades I just go underwater and LOOK AROUND......There's always something to see and enjoy :) Just get out there and photograph at any level of competence and desire....... You're sure to have fun with that approach !!! DH Some old guy still traveling and enjoying the ocean world :)

Thank you Nemrod, looks like you got some great action. I've just got back from Turks and Caicos so wondered if it would be the same story. Looks like you got some great fishy action. Can't say your pics look too backscattery at all though! Good job if there was lots of it around :-)

Fabulous Fabulous thanks so much David. Great pictures! Love the squid. Thanks for letting me know and interesting that you were there in October - not managed to speak to anyone else who's been there post pandemic.

Burst mode shooting is not a unique feature, most modern strobes should support it. The models using Lithium Ion batteries will be better suited for it however. Backscatter HF-1, the new Atom, Marelux, Kraken, and the Retra Maxi (if they ever ship it) would all be good options. But you could still have a trigger problem. I had to address this even with a capable strobe.

Thankls everyone for your input ! I`ll run some more tests now and will in doubt contatc directly. Having said that: I am actually tempted to get the Marelux Apollos just for this unique feature...

I have a Sony RX100 in a Nauticam RX100VII housing that I want to complement with a wide angle action cam for video shooting. Until now I used the Sony for video, too, but filming (in 4K!) drains its battery so fast that it sometimes didn't last till the end of the dive. Also, I would like to have a wider angle for filming, at least occasionally. I want to mount the action cam on top of the Nauticam housing so that I can take photos while shooting video. Some time ago I read or saw something on the web saying that under water, the DJI is better than the GoPro. Unfortunately I don't remember why, or where I saw that. Therefore I want to ask here if anybody knows both systems and can make a recommendation. Or any tipps what to consider beyond the cam itself, like what kind of housings are available for each model (to use up to 60m deep), or which offers the better range of attachment lenses and filters.

so... am i right to say... i only need a N100 Macro Port 125 ( for the sony 100mm) and a N100 extension ring 30 II for use with both the sony 1.4x TC and 2x TC? oh! i just saw it in their port chart.. it is indeed 37430 - N100 Extension Ring 30 II.

My dive buddy Nemrod and I dived Roatan in October and despite all of the Caribbean being "less lush and pristine" I still saw and photographed plenty of life...... This year I've been diving for 55 years and recall when the Caribbean was pristine. I think one has to be realistic on a planet trying to support 8 Billion people that it's not going to be the same as 10-20-30+ years ago. Many divers just starting the last couple decades may not have the means to go to Asia, the Red Sea, Maldives, Australia, Philippines, Indonesia or Maldives which all can be "less than people recall back in the day". My 11 year old grandson rolls his eyes telling me; "Grandpa, no one wants another story from back in the day!" LOL...... The Caribbean is still worth diving and fun to photograph underwater. :) Just one old guy's opinion! David Haas

Thank you, i believe they were referencing the Sony 20-70f4, which is a different one than the 28-70 i was asking about. However i did find a comment on wetpixel from Phil comparing both 28-60 vs 28-70, and he mentions he prefers 28-60! (Feb 2021) Thanks!