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Being an ExcelAddict helps in some ways I think but we will see - its makes me feel old when I realise that Excel hadn't been invented the last time I bought an underwater camera system!😂 Ah OK - I will have to do a search - hadn't realised that! Many thanks!

Totally agree that 10mm from the front of the port is just too little room! What is the approximate distance from the front of the port at 0.5x? I guess another interesting question is what does everyone think is the minimum distance from the front of the port to the subject to be able to effectively light the subject with strobes?

Isn't the Z5II another camera with only a 1/200 sync speed vs 1/250.

I think this is an important point. Most of us only use this (and the 8-15) as a 14/15 prime. So the extension may be different if you want to get that 180 look at 7/8mm or just want the sharpest corners at 14/15mm.

This may be the "correct" position according to placing the entrance pupil at the centre of curvature of the dome, however I believe the 140mm domes are not quite 180° domes. The Canon 8-15 I believe is 175° across the diagonal at 15mm, while the 7-14 is quoted to be 180° at 14mm and have a 190° field for the circular fisheye at 7mm. What this means is likely the 8-15 can sit right at the centre of curvature and the 7-14 will need to be slightly forward to avoid vignetting by the dome. At 7mm it will need to even further forward to avoid vignetting of the circular fisheye image. Based on this it might be OK with a longer extension at 14mm but need the 20mm extension for circular fisheye images at 7mm. The calculation you quote doesn't take vignetting into account, this happens for a number of lenses, including for example using lenses wider than 16mm in the Nauticam 180mm dome. You can test for vignetting on land, just setup the housing and dome and you can pull the camera in and out of the housing to zoom and replace it to check. If you are not interested in using the 7mm end the longer extension you calculated might work for you.

Thanks for the quick turn around Rich, appreciate your help.

Next time we will end our trip with 1 or better 2 nights in Cebu Probably i do the same and visit moalboal in last 2 days

We now have Pending status. If you open your listing there is now a button for marking it Pending. The listing will still show with other for sale items. but its flagged as Pending. If you want to make it available again you will see the option in the right menu where Mark as pending was. Hope that helps.

Note that at least in Australia the Nauticam Z5ii housing is about AU$2000 less than the Z6iii housing. It is even a couple hundred AU$ less than the small A7Cii housing. The attraction of the kit less that works with the smaller, cheaper WWL-1C rather than the WWL-1B is an advantage. The housing is about $1000 more than the Nauticam OM1ii housing but the Nikon Z5ii camera costs about AU$800 less than the OM1ii.

The Retra Maxi optical sensor is very sensitive. I am pretty sure a light tube in the port would trigger as long as it can see the master strobe. The build quality, light quality, speed, power, light spread are just amazing. And as powerful as they are they can be turned way down for a huge range of power. One thing, not a big deal to me since I do not shoot video, the TTL flash cancel (preflsh cancel learning mode) is shared with the video On/Off mode. So, you must use the Retra App to tell the strobe that you want TTL cancel or Video light. This really only becomes annoying for Sony shooters whose Sony camera is always on TTL mode and you want to shoot manual strobes (and video). And you decide you want to shoot a video mid dive. I am very happy with my Retra Maxi strobes. They are not all that big, they are neutral in the water, I think they are the most powerful current strobe in the market. Amazing strobes.

You’ve described it perfectly. I’ve lived there (twice), first in 1987, and still frequently travel around the country for work. Many people are beyond remote and might not see modern health care in their lifetime. This is a magnificent example that other liveaboards in those remote destinations we all love could learn from.

On the Canon RF port chart Marelux has 30mm's of extension recommended with the Canon EF 8-15mm and adapter. They introduced the 140mm dome with the bayonet shade for this lens which must be removed when at the 8mm circular fisheye end. For the new Canon RF 7-14mm I suggested 20mm's because Nauticam RF charts show 20mm for RF and they were also at 30mm for ef 8-15mm. I have ask Marelux to update the RF port charts for 7-14mm but they have not gotten to a zoom gear or extension size yet.

I bought my tickets with Etihad. So I do Barcelona - Abu dhabi - Manila. Then I take an Air Asia flight Manila to Cebu. Way cheaper and Quicker than go via China or Hong Kong. I've been checking with them and I had stopovers of 16 hours and 1200 euros tickets. With the current Schedule leaving Barcelona 10.00 in the morning I'm in Cebu 17:00 in the afternoon next day local time. With the longest stopover in Manila of 5 and a half hours and 900 euros tickets.

Sorry this is so long after the fact, but WOW! Video looks amazing. I just starting to do some research now at purchasing a used AX700 and Gates housing. No the same exact camera as yours, but this video is great! Do you like the Gates AX700 housing?

Sorry this is so long after the fact, but just starting to do some research now at purchasing a used AX700 and Gates housing. This video is great! Did you experience any overheating when filming in 4k? Any other notable nuances?

You can register too, we're developing, photoshop compatibility !

@Marc Furth Just curious, why were you disappointed? The reason I ask is because a friend who owns a dive shop went and his group was also disappointed, but the reason that they were disappointed is that most of them were relatively new divers and were looking for "big stuff" which you won't see a lot of at Coco View (as I explained above). It is not a good fit for everyone, but it is perfect for me.

This item is sold now...

In case you want to go near 1:1 it depends on the shyness of the critter and on the clearness of the water which focal length to use, in good vis the focal length cannot be long enough. In my MFT days I had both the Pana 45mm and the Oly 60mm (I did not have a 30mm macro), but prefered almost always the 60mm. 45mm only in bad visibility, but the compromise is reduced working distance. The problem with the 60mm (and also with 45mm, but to a less extend) comes when one makes fish portrait from medium to large size fishes. Then the working distance is really big and IQ detoriates a lot, because of the water. In these days people use the Nauticam MFO-3 (often on flip holder) for that purpose that greatly reduces the focal length of a macro lens...