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Ive used to work in 1000 passenger ferry boat in English Channel for 15 years.. Weekly drills, fire fighting training, all kind of procedures you would expect to save lifes. All the furniture on board is fire-retardant, sofas, beds, carpets, curtains and walls, to comply with SOLAS most commonly stands for Safety of Life at Sea. Interior Fabrics & Furnishings: Soft furnishings, curtains, bedding, and wall coverings must be inherently fire retardant or treated with certified sprays (such as Flametect NX2 or Emalfon i) to prevent the rapid spread of flames, smoke, and toxic gases. Structural Materials: Areas like engine rooms, flooring, and guest cabins often require fire-rated glass and specialized marine plywood (e.g., Mikasa Marine) to slow down combustion. According to AI, the Maldives Maritime industry must be comply with SOLAS for vessels over 500 Gross tonnage (GT) the 4 Yachts from emperor have between 32m and 44m, that's about 350GT, leaving them below the Weight limit for SOLAS complaince, that why the fire spread so quickly, the materials are not fire-retardant. ps: Some Luxury superyacht like the Galaxy Sky has a class of the Maritime Register of Shipping and complies with all standards for the safety and operation of ships (IACS), according to the international conventions Solas and Marpol. @TimG first hand experience its a very important sharing to others , ive pass it to the group that im going to the Maldives in the end of the year ( also Liveaboard emperor). Im glad everyone manage to get out safely, material stuff are secondary and replaceable, human lives are not.

I shoot in shallow water in rivers and streams. I've used each of the OM's. I still struggle at times to get the WB I'm looking for. It's typically tinted towards green. Ultimately, I decided to lean into that WB. That said, I'll admit to liking the natural coolness of the Sony WB more than Olympus, but I love shooting OM w/macro.

Looks like an amazing lens. I love my 90mm. It is slow to focus at times, particularly on small things, but the images are so beautiful. I'm excited to get my hands on one of these.

Sold!

Does anyone have an estimate on what extensions will be required for Marelux/Nauticam 180mm and 230mm domes?

Backscatter Underwater Review of the Sony 100mm Here is the full article: https://www.backscatter.com/reviews/post/Sony-100mm-Macro-Lens-Underwater-Review

Thanks Tim!

Very interesting, @Dave_Hicks ! I like the streamlined design. Let us know how it goes.

It's a little video beast. Basically it's the GH7 sensor in a smaller factor. I read the lens has a MFD of only 3cm and it has a mech shutter.. It could be a killer compact camera for uw use. Nauticam announced a housing already.

This is still a draft print, maybe one more iteration before a functional waterproof version. I will plan to dive it this weekend for a test run. The draft print is less dense than the final article so it is positively buoyant. I intend for the pair to be slightly negative, around 20 grams. Versus 250 grams negative for the HF-1 itself.

Good news everybody! The lens has already made it to optical bench hub: https://www.photonstophotos.net/GeneralTopics/Lenses/OpticalBench/OpticalBench.htm#Data/US20260029629_Example06P.txt,figureOpacity=0.25,AxisO,OffAxis Two some very good indicators that suggest it to be a good uw candidate: 1.) Entrance Pupil just moves 4.35 mm during zoom 2.) Just 42mm front glas diameter (will work with many water corrective optics) 3.) Minimum subject distance in Front of the lens = 123,2 mm = 12,32 cm 94° diagonal FOV @ 20mm behind a dome

i'll take it-pm sent

Pics?

I sort of designed a HF-1 form fitting float today that leaves the strobe about 20 grams negative in the water, adding ~230 grams buoyancy. Much less janky than foam blocks.

Great to have you with us. A warm welcome to Waterpixels. Best wishes

The RS13 is well smaller than most macro ports. Even with 230mm dome, using the ball-clamp-ball it would be well above the dome. And could be moved forward also instead of just up. I guess i could just get the WA afterwards for it, if see the need. Japan just has very nice pricing at the moment. Also would be interested how much it actually brings to the table compared to the no lens option.

I was able to get this printed and confirmed that this gear fits perfectly.

i guess you are shooting with a dome? if you are ...very likely you will see part of your dome. i wont need to put a wide angle lens on it... imo...

intresting... item... not in europe... hope to see how much they will be...

Interesting choice of name, which reminds me of the unmentioned Lumix LX10 which I still currently use for video. It's excellent for that (more practical than the LX100 series), within its limitations. This new model seemed to have upped the game, at last: It can shoot 4K video in either DCI or UHD aspect ratios at up to 120p, or 5.6K DCI-shaped video at up to 60p, or 4:3 'open gate' 5.2K footage at up to 60p. The video modes make use of the same multi-aspect approach as stills modes do, so the 5.2K footage is taken from a much taller region of the sensor than the ∼17:9 5.6K video, making it tall enough to extract 2160 x 3840 (vertical 9:16 4K) crops, if you're using it to deliver both horizontal and vertical video from the same capture. On the dust issue: The original LX100 developed something of a reputation for sucking dust into its sensor, in part because pocket cameras tend to be carried and used in wide, varied and challenging conditions. Panasonic said they made efforts to reduce this risk with the Mark II, and we've heard fewer complaints from users of the newer model. No further claims were made about the L10, so it's likely to be worth remembering that it's not fully sealed (it has an extending zoom, after all), but shouldn't be as susceptible as the Mk 1 was.

FOR SALE: Preowned, used Seacam Superdome 9" (~240mm) glass dome port. Overall in pretty good condition. Plastic (removable) shades are plenty scratched, as usual, but obviously they no effect on performance. Majority of the center glass in very good condition. NOTE: There are a few scratches on the dome's outer surface, positioned out to the sides. Detailed info on the scratches: On one side, there's a ding about 2mm, roundish. Red dot on photo gives approx position. Note that this is well out of the center area, off to the periphery. Then on the other side of the dome, pretty much opposite, there are a few scratches. Red circle on the first photo (wide photo showing the entire dome port) show you the general area where they are positioned.. Once again, note that they are far from the center. These are not deep- I don't feel them with my fingernail. These are kind of like "scuff scratches", and definitely not as bad as real scratches or gouges in terms of affecting image quality. (I have been shooting glass domes for 35 years, and I keep shooting domes until they are in far worse condition than this... I'm only selling this now because I sold my Seacam housings a while back and this has been sitting unusued in my closet.) Size-wise, there are a couple scratches about 1 cm length. And then a couple more about 1 inch in length. All kind of in the same general vicinity. I had a hard time photographing them so that they would be visible in these pictures. The 3 close up pictures attempt to show the scratches. It's possible that when shooting into the sun you, sometimes, may see some indication of these in the photo, but not in the main center area of the frame, not over where most/all of your main subject is likely to be, because all of these are far away from the center. When shooting coral reef scenes, wrecks, etc. at depth, or blue water with the sun at your back, or on overcast days etc., I honestly don't think they will be noticeable in any way. When I was shooting Seacam I was still using this dome regularly for all kinds of images, splits and underneath, with a variety of lenses (fisheye, 14mm, 16-35, etc.) and I did not feel the need to replace the glass yet. Asking $575 USD, with payment via Paypal (or cash in person). Price Includes shipping in the contiguous USA. Seacam shooters already know how expensive these are new, well north of $2000 USD. I'm doing my best to offer this at a price that accurately reflects the dome's condition and still represents a good deal for someone out there in need of a big dome who wants to save money. Thank you, Brandon

FOR SALE: Inon Z330 strobe. Preowned, well used. Not the prettiest specimen cosmetically, but still does its job. I just shot it in April in BC. NOTE: Focus light does not work, and hasn’t for a couple years. But being weak and off-center, it was never that useful to begin with, to be honest. So I didn’t miss it. Main flash tube is still excellent. Battery compartment clean. Never flooded. Electrical sync cable bulkhead clean. Never flooded. Front dome element excellent, as it almost always had a diffuser covering it. Note, 2 diffusers are included. And Nauticam angle ball mount also included, as well as spare new o-rings. I will also throw in a set of 4 Eneloop Pro batteries if you want. Well-used batteries, but would be a handy backup set to newer ones. Asking $250 for everything shown here, payment via Paypal, shipping included in the contiguous USA. Thank you, Brandon

Hi. I was a long-time member on Wetpixels. So I finally migrated to here. I've been shooting underwater photos and video since the early 2000s. Amazed at all of the tech change. I love snorkeling and diving in streams and rivers. My favorite targets are salmon, trout, insects, and other critters that live in the flowing beauty of water.

It is very similar to the LX100/LX100II. I had 10 yrs ago the LX100 and it was a very good compact camera for underwater use especially for video. I just hope the LX10 does not have the LX100 plague i.e. a non dustproof lens barrel as it was an expensive repair to have the sensor cleaned.

Yes, please ask... I think there are several interested...