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Many people have indeed had opinions, as a search here (and at the old site) will reveal. You can find my summary of Anilao resorts in this thread, and there are others scattered around. Anilao resorts

Thats what i understand - only if i wanna have a backup system (80D in Aquatica) in case of failure during projects (happen in the past and 50D save the game).

Working distance for the older Canon EF 8-15mm MFD is 15cm V. 14.73cm for the RF version I doubt you will see much difference between the two as the lengths with EF adapter are about identical.

Thanks for your response. I am actually surprised more people did not have opinions on this, considering the popularity of Anilao.

@Davide DB Thanks for that video. At this time, I can't really say. I wasn't really able to give it a fair test with the conditions as they were. I actually used AFS-C for most of my shots due to the current. I will update after my trip to Roatan in March, though.

You need to be at the other end of the process you describe. That is the sane and logical choice. But if you let sanity in, you probably wouldn’t be doing UW-photography in the first place… 🙂

A sachet of baking soda is easy to include in an emergency kit...

I'm looking for a used one to start using for topside filming, but I haven't found any great deals yet. Anyway, how are you finding AF-S for underwater video? Are you able to use subject tracking? With which lens? From what I’ve read, the Panasonic AF system is finally on par with Sony, Canon, and Nikon. What many people complain about is that it lacks the automation that Sony has: you pick any object and the camera starts tracking it regardless of the mode you're in (subject detection...). Many have requested this feature and hopefully, in a future upgrade... This video is one of the few comprehensive ones on all the Panasonic AF features for its latest-generation cameras.

Looks like the „gangway“ is about in the middle of the frame. In that case, a fisheye would not have distorted the lines much. The distortion is really only very visible towards the „corners“, but interpret the term generously. You can get images that look as if they were taken with a rectilinear, but your composition is limited if that is your goal.

A question come now as i own the 8-15 and use on R7 (before on 40D, 50D, 70D, 80D). What i will gain in the long term? Better IQ? one more mm ?

I think we‘re already at that point more or less (and getting closer even to the optical limits), but then we like to crop… A new car will also only get me from A to B, but it does feel a lot better. From a buyer’s perspective: I have so far mostly bought used equipment (and really rather old) for probably 10% of the original price or less. But lower-end models, and those loose value more than the pro stuff.

It's ritten in the article and your have to scroll down more than half the page. Tonight I can make a screenshot.

Thanks.

I've just booked a last minute trip to Amed, Bali in a week so I thought I'd better start getting my gear ready - but I had some issues with my strobes last year in the Philippines, and I haven't got around to figuring it out properly yet........so I wondered if one of the more experienced folks would be able to point me in the right direction 😁 All of my issues last year were user error/incompetence - due to me having no clue about manual strobes and getting everything together last minute (there's a pattern emerging)! I've just got a Macro setup at the moment so I'll be taking: Sony A7RV + 90mm + (Subsee+10/Inon UCL-165) 2 x Backscatter MF-2 UWT 11075 Trigger I've previously been in touch with Pavel, who said that setting the dial to 7 (Retra Pro Max) works for the MF-2 too, so that's straight forward - the thing I'm not 100% sure on is the camera settings. Should the settings be something like this: MF-2 in Manual mode, camera in Fill-flash with WL OFF for non-HSS speeds MF-2 in HSS mode, camera in Fill-flash with WL ON for HSS speeds Or, seeing as there is no TTL at play, should I just leave WL ON in the camera all the time, and just flick between Manual and HSS on the MF-2 when changing shutter speeds? Do I need to be aware of anything specific to the MF-2's around the learning function and any potential pre-flashes from the trigger? I was thinking WL ON might mean no pre-flash, so it might be easier to keep WL ON all the time, so the MF-2 would just learn no pre-flash everytime anyway? Any advice would be greatly appreciated - thanks! Attached some of the luckier (and quite edited) shots from last year to try and make it more interesting than a wall of text 😁

Too bad our digital cameras do not get updated to the latest technology by purchasing a new roll of film. It is not the housing that cause the depreciation, it is the never ending "improvements" to cameras that is driving the obsolesce of the cameras, lenses and thus the housings for them. Once upon a time computers were sold by processor speed, this is 166MHz, then 200MHz and now it is not really relevant as a shopping metric. Maybe someday cameras will have resolution that exceeds the optical resolution of the human eye and the capability of the human brain to discern any difference. Then maybe there will not be a new and better model every few months.

I didn't see that in the linked page and I searched the article, is it in the video or somewhere like that? I think UW photographers are the only people on the planet who might be interested in adding a converter? The issue is that the Canon RF 1.4x has a very long nose. On the 190deg field maybe the solution is to position the lens at the 180 deg point in the lens and the blue ring will be vignetted out? On the filter holder, this is similar to what is used on the big tele lenses. If it gets in the way of the zoom ring you might be able to remove it and put some tape over the hole. Also the position of the zoom gear in the housing will influence whether it's a problem, the Nauticam housings for example position the camera back in the housing so there is room for an RF-EF adapter, which means the gear will be forward of where the filter holder is. All of this will be confirmed or otherwise no doubt once the housing manufacturers have tried it out.

A buddy just got one for his XT4, not many companies doing Fuji housings. He's extremely impressed.

Even slightly older mirrorless are pretty cheap. If I could get $600 for this EM5MK2 and housing I'd be happy. Instead I think it'll become a loaner camera.

I think Bill sums it up nicely!

The Marelux Aquista 135D ( D meaning direct mount like the WACP line ) has a max diagonal field of view of 135 degrees on full frame with a FF lens set at around 26-28mm. It will have anti-corrosion and anti-reflective coatings, it uses the Marelux serious 5 port mount, which means extensions and port adapters can be used. depth rated to 100 meters and will retail for $2599.00. I have not yet seen or used the lens but will have it in house by April if all goes well. This design will allow for a greater number of lenses to be used than for the Aquista 110 & 130 designs that mount onto a flat 67mm port. A list of lenses should be coming soon and I will post when they are released.

I have been trying to sell a 7D MII Nauticam for a year. Best bet is to donate it to someone like the Heroes of the Sea (from the Rocio del Mar) or to a local dive club or sell it really cheap to a young diver/photographer starting out. I did get an offer for the camera plus housing for like $400 (with ports but no lenses) and said sorry but not worth packing it up. Ended up donating it. Bill

This video isn't underwater, but anybody will identify with the antics of sea otter moms and pups. These pups are about ready to go off on their own, and are far more interactive than just born youngsters whom we filmed previously. Here's the link:

Welllll, it was probably the worst dive trip that I have been on. We were originally promised three dives per day (I prefer 4 or 5 dives a day, but OK), but when we got there, we were told that in fact, we were only going to get two dives per day. Then, we got high winds out of the north, which caused small craft warnings and the harbor was closed, so we lost three of the five days of diving. We were able to convince them to dive on Friday, since our plane left late on Saturday. So, we eventually got a total of six dives. Cozumel, for me, is not terribly interesting diving since I love macro shooting and with the currents and drift dives, macro is hard. Then, coming back we had to re-route our flights due to the snow storms in Charlotte, North Carolina, and they managed to lose all of our luggage in the process. It has finally arrived, though, and everything was intact. That said, I mostly upgraded from the GH5 to the GH7 for the improved autofocus, and so far I must say that I am impressed. It really does appear to be significantly improved. I will be going to Roatan in March, where I will be able to test it on macro subjects and really give it a work out, but for now I am impressed. Thanks for asking!

It's probably this one: $125 for acrylic Inon Dome Lens Unit IIIA – Reef Photo & Video Inon: Looks like it available in acrylic or glass INON Dome Lens Unit III [Features]