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This it really useful feedback, thank you Mike. This was exactly what I was looking for, it was mostly built around the way I dive (mostly trips abroad) and I have only been able to test with my own equipment. So next steps I will look at the numbering, and make trips optional hopefully this should solve the first issue. I’ve not been able to fully test the iNaturalist integration as they have a minimum requirement for setting up api integrations which I have not yet met the criteria for. Dont feel you have to but would it be possible to share one of your uddf files? This would massively help when testing new import scenarios and data mapping. Thanks again. Wyvern

Hi Wyvern New version loads and works on my Mac and the UDDF import ostensibly works bringing dives over from Mac Dive. A few things: The TRIPS thing is odd for me. I dive every week locally. My dives are not part of 'trips' so it essentially forces my dives into arbitrary groups which dont mean anything. Be good to be able to just disable this. The dive numbering is a bit whack - when I view in Timeline it groups by years and months but the dives all have the same, similar, or repeated number (see image below) Much of the dive data isn't correct - ie Gas mix is AIR for everything but I mostly dive Nitrox mixes (so perhaps not reading the UDDF correctly) Its also is listing the wrong dive computer. GPS location data is good and I like the map and icons. The iNaturalist integration would be the best part for me but can't seem to get this to work. The CONNECT ACCT button is greyed out. But great work so far. I like where you're going with this.

Success! Decided to just dive into the deep end with an empty (backup) housing. Mounted a 40mm ASA printed port extension with a dome port and dove it to 106 feet. Nothing imploded and trigger the leak sensor. Using standard Nauticam orings.

Hey Joel Great to have you with us. A warm welcome to Waterpixels. Best wishes

Just wanted to follow up with anyone who's downloaded and tested if they had any feedback, have you found it useful? anything that bugs you about it etc? open to all feedback.

Hi everyone, Happy to be here! I'm an avid diver from Zurich Switzerland and enjoy Macro/Muck Diving just as much as big wildlife or incredible corals. I started out with a lumix S1H which I still love dearly for topside work, but switched to a Sony A1 a year ago, mainly for its smaller size and impressive specs. I love Indonesia and often dive in Amed for Macro stuff, might see some of you there one day! Cheers and happy bubbles & good light, Joel

Strange indeed. I hope they will upload English subs asap

Yes, I understand that, and tried to work with it for about three or four hours and gave up because I could never get it to work as well as the simple check boxes that do it automatically for me. I am not saying that Resolve isn't great, but simply that I can't seem to get it to work for me. That's just me, and I may have to learn it someday, but I just got too frustrated and went back to something that works well for me.

@Davide DB When I checked, Autotranslate didn't have English as a choice. I will try again. Nope, still not there.

Sold.

Deal reached! Sale Pending.

iMovie also works to set white balance.

A friend once built a pressure pot by cutting in half an aluminium scuba cylinder that had failed test and making a perspex lid for the bottom half, then tapping in a pressure feed. It was only for a few bar, so a cylinder that had failed a 200 bar + test pressure was not a bad risk. It was part of an undergraduate engineering project. The trick on safe use is to completely fill with water, then only use a little air to pressurise - just like they do when cylinder testing, but only to a few bar. Unfortunately it wouldn't be big enough for a real camera housing, but could probably have worked for a compact. He used it to test and calibrate old analogue depth gauges against a lab quality guage.

I'm going to drop a housing off a long deep pier tomorrow and assess. Then dive it if all looks good.

No DM arrived. I'm considering a redesign using magnets.

The pressure pot could likely do a dome port but not a housing and port. It's also 80# and now in Victoria. The "cap" would be best designed as a hemisphere, not a flat shape.

Tomorrow i am going a local Seattle dive site, Cove2, which has a pier over pretty deep water. I will drop it down and see what happens. If it passes, i can dive it to 100 ft or so on a proper dive, sans camera.

The university forgot to upload the English subtitles. So in the meantime you have to set up the auto-translate: Click the CC icon located at the bottom right corner of the video player. A red line will appear below the icon when subtitles are active. Click the gear icon right next to the CC button to open the settings menu. Click on Subtitles/CC. Check if English is available in the list. If it is, click it to activate manual subtitles. If English is not on the list, click on Auto-translate and scroll down to select English.

I could only get it to give me subtitles in Italian, there was no choice of English and no other language seemed to work either.

Pressure testing an end cap is very different than the extension ring; the forces will cause different stresses and deflections between the two. The pressure on the end cap will deflect the sides out and if you get a leak, you will not know if the seal was broken due to the cap's deflection. Also, the ring can withstand much higher forces since they will be compressive and bending forces are not involed. But if the test doesn't fail, you will know the ring design is good. When I ran a pressure test on a housing in the past, I tied it to a line and dropped it off my kayak in the ocean. After a while, I pulled it up, saw no leaks, and called it good. I tested it deeper than what I was willing to dive to. Ben

The university has finally published the full documentary on their YouTube channel titled "Inhabited Deserts - a journey through grains of sand", released today, April 8, 2026. The script isn't that of a true documentary, but rather a more scientific format, as specifically requested by the client. The documentary lasts about 25 minutes and focuses on the biodiversity of sandy seabeds, which are often underestimated and considered desert-like, but are actually rich in life and fundamental for the recycling of organic matter. Here are some interesting points covered in the video: Hidden Biodiversity: It explores the world of meiofauna (microscopic organisms living between the grains) and "architects" like Lanice conchilega and Sabellaria, which build incredible structures by cementing sand together. The Role of Crustaceans: Much space is given to hermit crabs and crabs, described as tireless scavengers that ensure the seabed remains clean. Survival Strategies: It shows how bivalves, irregular sea urchins, and starfish have perfectly adapted to digging and living beneath the surface. Nurseries and Conservation: The video highlights how these seabeds are vital nursery areas for many species (such as cuttlefish) and issues a plea regarding the fragility of these balances in the face of human impact. You can watch it here and by fiddling with the YouTube settings, you can get English subtitles

That is certainly possible, at least one end cap. Plug the other end with an actual Port. Only issue is that now you are testing two parts and might not know which one fails. Is the pressure pot big enough for a housing?

I just bought a large 10 bar pressure pot from a guy in Bellingham, then delivered it to a friend in Victoria. Would have fit almost anything. What about designing sealed end caps to allow pressure testing of parts off the camera?

Same situation here: drysuit, dry gloves, and even rebreather and stages. Sorry in advance if I say things you already know. I haven't re-read the old thread, but I remember some controversy 😉 The scooter is a very powerful tool, but I see it being used quite carelessly compared to other equipment, without giving it proper importance or understanding the dangers. I have witnessed several accidents caused by improper management of it. I have used the DVP only for videos, although I have friends who also use it for photos but only wide-angle with a fisheye, and in that case, let's say you don't need to aim with precision. Still shooting wide, my friends orient the camera longitudinal to the scooter and hold the handles without detaching it from the scooter. But if you have to photograph a fish and frame it with precision, the best thing is to detach the camera. And here we come to the different types of mounts on the market that can make a difference. Rule #1: scooter and camera must be neutral or balanced individually. The scooter must be neutral or, better yet, slightly positive by a few grams. The camera, lights/strobes assembly must be practically neutral. In this way, if you detach the two things, both will stay right there without causing problems and the clipping and unclipping operations will be easier. Besides detaching the camera to take photos, also keep in mind a scenario where you have to remove it for an emergency or something else... Rule #2: This should come directly from using the scooter safely. If you let go of the scooter handle/controls because you are doing something else, you must never leave it to its own and you must always disconnect the power. All modern scooters have an ON/OFF knob. A scooter left free (and negative) causes huge damage to the surrounding environment and, via the tow cord, can get snagged on rocks, corals, and algae or simply to your gear in a part you can't reach! (Murphy's Law). A classic scenario in current is the cord or a piece of coral activating the trigger, causing the scooter to take off on its own without control, dragging you along. It sounds like science fiction, but I have seen it happen several times. Or, in an attempt to grab it, you accidentally pull the trigger while your hand is inside the propeller. Therefore, while doing other things, the scooter is turned off (#1) and clipped to yourself (#2). It could seems excessive but after few time it becomes muscle memory. This is why a double-ender is usually placed on a bungee on the nose and clipped to a D-ring within reach. Following these two simple rules, now let's move on to the mounts. Let's just say that all DPV mounts have one thing in common: they are crazy expensive! For many years I used the cheapest one of all (the same linked by @Raph ) and I would recommend it to you provided that you never have to detach the camera from the mount. So that is not your case. The Yellow Diving mount consists of two parts that fit together perfectly but remain joined by three screws at 120°. If you don't tighten them, the camera can even rotate without detaching from the mount. Joining the two pieces in the water is not impossible but it's quite annoying. On the surface, if the sea is calm, it requires someone's help. In recent years I have been using the Suex mount. It has the advantage that the insert fixed to the camera fits smoothly into the part on the scooter and has a quick-release mechanism that allows you, with a bit of practice, to do everything with one hand. With this mount, you can easily attach and detach the camera during the dive. It also has a safety screw that allows you to lock everything in place. The Yellow Diving mount comes without holes for the camera (wise choice) The Suex has a single hole. I don't know about others. In any case, a single hole is absolutely no good. You need two. No matter how much you tighten it, it unscrews in an instant underwater. ATM I don't have photos of my mount, Let me know if you need other info or photos. Ciao

I enjoy some out of the box thinking!