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Hi all coming back to this topic for confirmations/clarifications. I have a Sony A7V, soon in a Nauticam housing, with a pair of Retra Pro-X. There is probably not much people with experience with A7V, but it is likely to have same behavior that A7IV or A7RV. I have read many articles, but I'm still not sure of everything... Can someone ( @TURTLE-Balage ?) please confirm what is possible with s-Turtle Smart3 TTL trigger FROM THE CAMERA MENU during the dive ? (not change done with setup program). -Activate manual or TTL mode. -Activate first or second curtain, in manual mode. -Activate first or second curtain, in TTL mode. -Activate HSS mode (in manual mode ?). Also -What is the max sync speed (outside HSS). I read 1/200s somewhere. It seems that changing firs/second curtain id possible on s-Turtle Smart3 manual trigger but not on s-Turtle Smart 3 TTL trigger... Considering the price of the trigger, I need to ensure what are the actual capabilities... Thanks

In my opinion (based on personal experience), the go-to lenses for Canon FF are the 8-15mm taped at 15mm (so a prime) and the RF 15-30 for rectilinear. The RF 16 2.8 is just fine too and all of them like bigger domes rather than smaller. I bring the 16 2.8 as a backup but rarely shoot it. The 15-30 gets more keepers than the 14-35 F4L even though it is a cheaper lens. I have not used WWL or WACP because of the mixed reviews on the 24-50 and I don't shoot a Nauticam housing, even though I could get one to fit my housing with adapters. Good luck on your purchases!

I have done my own dome ports, 4" with 3 different plexiglass curvature, I have change the plexiglass to a 8" old Sea&Sea dome port, for which I had to modify the fitting system,and a 17" dome port, which I don't have any picture right now and I lent it to a friend. When I have it again I can send you pictures, but basically is the same design of the pictures above.

I don't use to shoot macro, not the kind of pictures that I like the most, so grab the camera this morning and take just macro shots it's been like fresh air to me. Water in 15ºC, no sun, and flat sea. The best, as always, share with the friends the after diving at the bar with a couple of beers.

REDUCED: I am selling my complete Ikelite 6801.72 FL underwater set for $3250 USD plus freight (I will consider serious offers). Would like to see this rig get used instead of sitting around.

Reduced: Have 3 Ikelite DS125 strobes (without battery). All work and tested. Cost is $225 (USD) for each and you pay freight.

Nope, just wanted to experiment with larger domes and figured if I was going to make something I might as well go big, figured the larger I went from 8" the bigger the difference and if people are selling them there might be supplies available off the shelf to DIY, I assume they aren't getting custom molded domes. Truthfully I just want to experiment with one to see what it's like which is why I want to build one since I don't know how practical or useful it will be.

Heya, welcome ! I'm also putting together a A6400 set-up inside a Salted Line housing. Have a Tokina 10-17mm and currently working on getting a zoom ring for it. Looking forward to sharing ideas !

I do not recommend to buy a new housing for an old camera model. In the end you will want to upgrade soon and the used housing will not be worth much on the second hand market, since nobody wants the housing. Maybe you can get a second hand housing for R6 at a reasonable price. If not, it is more economical to buy both new housing and camera model (but camera model with latest technology). You will use the combination longer and also get a better price for the used housing, when you once upgrade...

To illustrate the costs I looked at backscatter. an R7 camera plus Nauticam housing and the N100-N120 adapter is $6229 uses your current mini dome. An R6 Nauticam housing (conversion kit seems to be free) plus 140mm dome plus the required 30mm extension is $7600 (using your camera) An Isotta R6 housing (no kit needed) plus 40mm extension plus 4.5" dome is $4653 (using your camera) An Olympus OM-1 II body plus Isotta housing plus 40mm ext with knob plus 20mm extension plus 4.5" dome is $5730 plus a Metabones adapter about $600. All prices are from Backscatter wesbite. These leave out the lens you will use - all the same assuming using a Canon 8-15 in each case also no zoom gear though Isotta zoom gears are a bit cheaper. The R7 and OM-1 allows zoom, the R6 doesn't but you could add a 1.4x for limited zoom.

Hi Andrian, I'm interested. I'll send you a PM.

I'd still suggest adding up the costs, the premium for full frame housings is significant. Also look at what it would take to go with Isotta, their housings are significantly cheaper. I owned Canon gear when I bought my first housing and went with Olympus as the overall cost was less, you can get away with smaller domes, the lenses are cheaper and smaller for travel. Just enter everything in a spreadsheet, ask us if you are not sure on configurations. Regarding zooming I don't know what you usually shoot, reef scenics and fish swarming around corals are generally good with an straight fisheye at 15mm FF equivalent. You can also use the Sigma 15mm fisheye. I found that things likes schools of Barracuda above sea mounts, larger pelagics etc certainly benefited from the ability to zoom as did closing in on an anemone full of clownfish. On the question of zooming a fisheye unless you have very deep pockets or perhaps shoot Sony, doing it on full frame is very expensive and the common solutions only work on smaller formats - this is the reason for suggesting this. You can add a Kenko 1.4x for some limited zoom from 11-15mm as marked on the zoom ring to the 8-15. On the OM-1 which I use with the 8-15 you get full zooming capability. From a travel-ling perspective, going for an R7 your only addition is another body and spare battery, you be carrying your choice of fisheye regardless. with smaller formats your mini dome will likely be fine saving more space and weight. You'll have a housing anyway and you'll have your land lenses whichever system you use. You could choose to use the 8-15 or the 10-17 both will work with APS-C and the 8-15 has a lock to lockout zooming wider than 10mm when on an APS-C body. Lots of people on here swear by the 10-17 and it quite a bit cheaper. But either way it's only a body you'd be buying extra, you'll need a housing whichever way you go.

Do you need 17"? the 12" domes are more affordable, about $US1500 delivered assuming you'll need to pay duties on the way in.

Changing batteries occasionally is less work than dealing with the o-rings and potential corrosion of the contacts, you need to remove the cables regularly so the threads don't seize. so change a few times a year or maintain the cables after every dive session.

I decided to buy a pair of Sea&Sea YS-D3 DUO. Would it be better to use 5-pin sync cable for manual only operation? Would it be reliable? I just don't want to deal with extra piece of equipment with battery inside my housing for optical triggering. My housing has a 5-pin socket.

Thank you hellhole as I needed this help as well!

Too much time with no diving, so we went to the water as soon as the water calmed down a bit. And after we went to the bar 😁

And that's the other guy https://www.mattysmithphoto.com/custom-dome-ports/

Sorry missed this! I went from the Sony A6000 to the A6400, as I had the Salted Line housing I could just change some shims to make it work and I've been very happy with that upgrade. Eventually I'll have to consider if I upgrade the body when I go for a new housing, which will likely depend what I can find secondhand.

Id rather use the R6 (full frame) purely as i already own one. The Nauticam website lists the R6 Mk2 housing as being compatible with the Mk1 with a "supplied kit". https://www.nauticam.com/products/na-r6ii-housing-for-canon-eos-r6-ii-camera "*A conversion kit is required for use with the original Canon ROS R6" That at least means i could get an R6 mk2 (which is still made) and likely available second hand for several years longer even though the Mk1 no longer exists. Splashing money on an R7 body and new housing just to use a lens not made since 2022 doesnt seem a great idea. Ultimately i use my 10-17 currenly about 90% of shots at the 10mm end, rarely going to 17mm. FWIW i do very little macro at all. Typically 1 day on a week long trip if its somewhere nice but thats about it so WA is my main interest here. WACPs and so on as well as being costly are heavy and luggage weight is another huge issue. Not ideal getting an entirely new system and then the luggage weight issues as id still be taking my R6 and the surface lenses on trips as well. Im already paying through the nose for excess fees sadly. If the 8-15 goes full frame above 14mm or so it might be tolerable as thats roughly the same as my existing 10mm now provided i remember ot to zoom out. I might be able to live with losing the zoom as im not sure id go wider than that anyway. Hard to say really.

Count me in!

Is there anybody a good printing solution for N85 focus gear for Sony 10-18mm f/4 (SEL1018) zoom on Sony a6400 (or similar A6xxx) in Nauticam housing (housing zoom knob). I'm totally noob for 3D printing but I have access to a printer and help.

No Canon 28-70 that will work with the WWL1B? I don’t see the WWL as a replacement for the 10-17 or any other fisheye. It is a rectilinear zoom. In my case, replacing a 10-20 or 10-24 crop sensor zoom behind a large dome port. Not sure what the Canon equiv. would have been (10-22?). If you have/get a Canon/Sigma 15 mm FE that works with a new Canon FF body, that would cover a lot of WA-needs in combo with a wet Nauticam-lens and a zoom. I’m waiting for a z-FE (perhaps in vain) as older FE:s won’t autofocus with the new Nikons, unless using adapters. Might come to that for me.

There really isn't an equivalent to the Tokina lens in full frame and Canon unfortunately. The WWL is certainly an option - but in Canon that means going with the WWL-C and the Canon 24-50 in FF which is not the sharpest knife in the drawer, plus in my mind the WWL only sort of substitutes for a fisheye as the angle of view is quite a bit less - horizontal field of the fisheye is about 144° while the WWL is about 122° and the barrel distortion that pushes the subject forward in the frame and gives it prominence is starting to be less noticeable. You do get a little more reach with the WWL compared to the 10-17. (The Nikon 24-50 is a much better lens) I'm assuming you are not in the market for the $$$$ fisheye conversion port. So what to do if you want to re-create the 10-17? First option is to find a second hand 10-17, should be straight forward to find a nice copy in Japan and use it on an EF-RF converter with an R7. Unfortunately a bit pricey though and Nauticam have handily changed to N100 port system on that model, meaning you would need the pricey 35.5mm N100-N120 adapter which you could use your current port on. The N100-N120 is half the price of a WWL though! Ikelite and Nauticam are the only options for an R7. Next alternative might be an OM-1 (Mk I or II) in an Isotta housing used with an adapted 8-15., yes it's a smaller sensor, but IMO the image quality is a step up on a D70 and good enough for most purposes. It works really well with the adapted 8-15. Isotta as the components are much cheaper to house an adapted 8-15 this route. The 8-15 is an excellent option in this format and exactly replaces a 10-17 and adds some reach at the long end with excellent optical quality a very flexible setup. You could use an 8-15 on a R6 but you'd not have any zoom capability for CFWA or more reach for shyer subjects but you might be able to use your current dome. The 8-15 is either 8mm circular of 15mm full frame 180° diagonal fisheye. The Nauticam R6II housing is about $1700 more than the Isotta at Backscatter. With the R6 MkI though your only option in new housings appears to be Isotta or Ikelite, Nuaticam seems discontinued. Some older Nauticam domes can be adapted to Isotta, but you may want something bigger than a mini dome for FF, probably the 140mm in Nauticam. We've already talked about a WWL-C with this above. I suggest you add what you would need to spend with each option to see what you would be up for. The issue is that anything in full frame gets expensive quite fast, smaller formats are much more affordable in aluminium housings.