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I got frustrated with the turtle led stickers and ended up printing a box that contain them and the strobe unit. This way I mount the whole thing as one unit that aligns with the strobe ports. Not perfect, but better than fiddling with the LEDs and the filmsy connector every time

Thanks again for all the advice. While we are on the subject, since I will be on a friend's sail boat and have also time in the water beyond the whale tours, do you have recommendations for reef-snorkling and/or diving in Tonga? Thanks! Nir

Hello to all! I am thinking about upgrading my kit from a GoPro to something more professional, I am diving 99% of the time in the Mediterranean Sea from 0 to 60 meters. I found some interesting deals on the GH5 mk2 and the GH6, and both fits on the Easydive Leo3 I am planning on buy with two 15’000 lumens lights. Do you have any suggestions on which one to choose, some drawbacks to be aware of, or recommended lens? Many thanks to all!

Hi Alessio! A warm welcome to Waterpixels. Great to have you with us. I hope you get the info you need. Lots of experts here who I’m sure will be helpful. Best wishes Tim

Hello and greetings from Italy! I joined this forum to ask for some advice on which camera to buy as my first one. I’ve found some interesting deals on the GH5 mk2 and the GH6, and I’ve seen some incredible footage shot with the GH5 series. I enjoy shooting mainly videos and am thinking of buying an Easydive housing and some 15,000-lumen Easydive lights. Thanks to all!

Writing a small follow up on my Mikomoto trip. Initially planned for early autumn, but it changed into early August. I had booked Wed, Thu, Fri and Sat diving last week, and about 2 weeks before the diving the typhoon Dolphin hit Okinawa (hope you are ok @bghazzal ) started to form on the weather models. In the end diving was cancelled Monday-Thursday in Mikomoto. Friday came and diving resumed with 4 meter swell and about the same in visibility. 0 hammerheads to be seen. It can only get better i thought. In a way it did, visibility was 5m instead of 4 Saturday, and saw one hammerhead for about 7 seconds pretty far away. So in the end, i had picked the worst days of high season to go to Mikomoto as Sunday and today Instagram has been full of videos of huge schools and sharks at hands length. Diving and boat logistics are not big camera friendly. Entry and exit is really fast paced and boat is very cramped. You have to jump with camera. I guess thats why 38 out of 40 had a action cam and me and my friend had big rigs (and Saturday also met @jjmochi with a big camera, hopefully you got some good shots). I will probably try my luck again next year. So if you need to know when a typhoon is hitting Japan, just ask when im going.

thanks I think I may have over darkened it in lightroom

Yes, it has a "locked" position, like this: All the other positions are not locked in place, but this is a sort of retaining position, and is quite sturdy.

This is what ChatGPT says: they are quite different accessories for the TG-series cameras such as the TG-7. FD-1 Flash Diffuser LG-1 LED Light Guide Light source Built-in flash Built-in LED Light Short, powerful flash Continuous light Macro stills Better Good, but less powerful Video Not useful as continuous light Excellent Underwater Yes Not useful underwater Working distance About 2–30 cm About 1–10 cm Light control Two flash levels No separate control Best for Underwater/macro photography Macro/video and very close subjects OM System specifically describes the FD-1 as a flash diffuser that gives softer, more even illumination and lists it as compatible with the TG-7, TG-6, TG-5 and TG-4. For your underwater photography I’d choose the FD-1 without hesitation. The important advantage is that it uses the TG’s flash, rather than the relatively weak LED. That gives you enough light for faster shutter speeds and lower ISO, which is particularly useful for underwater macro where you want to freeze subject movement. OM System also specifically confirms that the FD-1 can be used underwater. The LG-1 is really more of a macro/video light guide. It takes the camera’s LED and distributes it around the lens. It’s particularly useful when you need to see the lighting continuously while composing video. So, if you’re using a TG-7 for underwater stills, get the FD-1.

What are the differences between these two? Which one is for underwater macro photography? LG-1 LED Light Guide Model: V335480BW000UPC: 050332193864 OM SYSTEMBuy LG-1 LED Light Guide From OM SYSTEMBuy OM SYSTEM | Olympus LG-1 LED Light Guide online now. Find our range of quality Tough Accessories online now. Easy returns. Free shipping on orders +$100." essential tool for improving lighting in macro photography" FD-1 Flash Diffuser Model: V335470BW000UPC: 050332193857 https://explore.omsystem.com/us/en/fd-1-flash-diffuser " designed to soften the lighting in close-up photography"

Assuming you have a removable shade, the first thing to check might be dome rotation. Set the camera/ lens up so you can see the edge then loosen the screws and try rotating the dome a little so that the edge doesn't appear. Next check the other corners to see if the dome appears in a different corner. Just to be clear the edge appears as you are zooming out towards a circular fisheye image? You mention extenders - the dome should not appear at all with the 2x and appear around 10mm zoom with the 1.4x, is that what you are seeing?

Here is another thought, just trying to trouble shoot. If you camera requires a tray to slide in as many do, is any wiggle noticeable with the camera into place? Such that the lens zoom or focus gear could be pushing the camera aside?

I have a friend with a Nauticam Sony housing who noticed (by mounting a wet lens) that his Nauticam housing, camera tray is not manufactured telecentrically precise. So you might not be the only soul, suffering from this 🤷‍♂️😩 ..

Had busy weekend has Dive guide, very little time for filming...

Is this a language / word choice problem? Picture of a level below. Just check if the hood is parallel to the base of the dome. Put the level on top of the hood. If the hood is not taller than the dome, put the dome upside down with the hood on two equal sized block. Put the level on the base of the dome. Check to see if it's out of line.