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My wife is using the Tokina 10-17mm with Nauticam housing for Olympus EM1II plus Metabones 0,71x speedbooster with Zen DP100 (N120 version). In addition, she uses N85/N120 34,7mm Nauticm adapter plus 20mm N120 extension... => this is indeed a perfect and compact rig for UW WA... Regarding pedal hood: The hood is in the way, when the Tokina is used on FF cameras (not recommended, better use e.g. Canon 8-15mm with 1x glassless adapter then (if required)). FF people used to remove this hood then( not recommended, better use e.g. Canon 8-15mm with 1x glassless adapter then (if adapter is required)). A bigger image circle (compared to APSC) is required for FF sensor, the pedal hood already shows up...

Aloha and welcome @hon05

This is a comparison between the Nauticam and the Marelux being used by Tom Kline and others. AOV range, weight both in and out of water, and focus range are some of the differences as well as lens design.

I dive out of Eilat a lot (northern Red Sea), so different routes than a Hurghada liveaboard, but the same water type. Agree this is mostly wide-angle country for that itinerary. Wrecks and reef walls are the main show. If you're thinning the bag after Indonesia, leave the macro kit home. I shoot a phone in a housing and a GoPro with no strobes, which forces the keep-it-simple habit. What I'd actually want on a Red Sea boat: a camera you can grab every dive without fuss, a spare battery or two, and hands free for buoyancy. Agree with the two-wetsuits tip already in the thread for November. Beyond that I'd rather leave options I won't open at home.

I've been happily playing with my new gear (Sony A6400, Tokina 10-17mm in a Saltedline housing with a 6 inches dome port) in the few dives I could do during the summer, here in Marseille. I invested in good strobes (Sea&Sea YS-D3 Duo) which I'm happy with, but less so with the housing. No flooding concerns, but the buttons are squishy and work only half the time (when they work at all...). Thus, I'm looking into getting a Nauticam housing plus a 100 zen dome port. Looking into the used market, but getting lost with port diameter sizes, extensions and the rest ! Do you use your Tokina with a FF body or APS-C ?

Has anyone done a comparision between these 2 setups ? I see good reviews for the 100mm with MFO-3, but not much on the 28-60 with CMC-2. For larger macro and medium size subjects, how do these setups compare ?

Hi hon05 A warm welcome to Waterpixels. Great to have you with us. We hope you enjoy the forum and find all the help you need. Post away! Best wishes

Update - I was told it's revised glass, they don't seem to be claiming any improvement for it.

Thanks for the welcome. I'll dig into that ambient-light action-cam article. Phone in a housing and a GoPro with no strobes, so that's exactly the mess I'm usually looking at.

the old MFO3 spec: and the new: specs seem identical??

I saw on the Nauticam homepage, that they are selling now MFO-3II: https://www.nauticam.com/products/mid-range-focus-optimizer-3-mfo-3 Does anybody know what the difference to the original MFO-3 is?

Hi, just joined the forum. Im looking to share and discuss improvements I´m doing to my R50 seafrogs kit. So ill be mostly in the Tutorials, How-Tos, DIY forum.

Hmmm, or Hong Kong as there are no sales taxes and then come home via Bali...😄

One decade now with two lenses, Canon EF 8-15 and EF 100mm macro. But sometimes you need something that will be able to catch the breath of a new site and then to redive for wide angle and macro. I see that > https://www.ikelite.com/blogs/reviews/canon-rf-s-18-150mm-f-3-5-6-3-is-stm-lens-micro-review-results . I ask from Onderwaterhuis.NL, my supplier in uw photo staff, to see if we can find solution for Nauticam x Canon R7. Other ideas for such lenses that can be used around (and sacrifice the wide angle side for the beginning)?

The diving in Bali is great this time of year, perhaps you should pickup the equipment there😃😃😃

To be fair I forgot to put Action6 into low light mode. However in low light 'Supernight' mode it does not record with DlogM. Everything baked in. X6 does record in iLog in night mode. Names of videos say the source and processing. !Note! View HDR versions only on HDR capable screens. No color or exposure tweaks were performed on any clip. Only conversions and factory LUT applications. For the fun of it I threw in Sony A1 clip. Only Slog3 to HDR conversion.

Welcome aboard! We have an amazing article. It says pretty everything on this topic:

Welcome to WaterPixels! We are glad to have you.

Hi all. I'm Ben. Based in Israel. AOW, somewhere in the low hundreds of dives, a lot of them the same sites in Eilat because for a few years that was the weekend: drive south, dive, drive back. I shoot a phone in a housing and a GoPro. No strobes. So most of my underwater frames come back blue, and I'm here to learn from people who actually know what they're doing with light and colour underwater. Happy to be useful where I can. Mostly listening for now.

Definitely wide-angle for the day dives. I’ve pretty much given up on daytime macro in the R/S. Macro makes good sense though for the night dives and, yep, not something too demanding in terms of “finding “ the subject in the viewfinder. So 60mm on FF. As CCRphoto says, it’ll be starting to get a bit nippy. Wrap up warm, Mike 😜

yep - three night dives are planned so I will take a short macro lens and port anyway which shouldn't upset the other half too much... definitely planning a hoody and tracky bottoms for the evenings