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Hi Rich, As far as I know, "Hue" and "Saturation" of the water is nothing one can adjust at the camera (regarding the RAW file). The actual color of the water is adjusted in post, e.g. in LRc, via the "Temp" and "Tint" sliders and (within the range of your RGB signals) you can produce virtually any color you like... Similar with darker/lighter of water, what can be adjusted as you like in post (but exposure to the right by ISO, shutter and aperture is, of course prefereable as the starting point)... It is just the balance of #1.: "Temp"&"Tint" between foreground subject and water that you can adjust by choosing the strobe temperature (or, alternatively, making a mask of the foreground and of the water and adjust this separtely) and of #2. darker/lighter ("Exposure") between foreground subject and water that you sleect by strobe power (or, alternatively, making a mask of the foreground and of the water and adjust "Exposure" separately I am not quite sure what you mean with "nice blue water column". For me the blue of the water in your second example photo looks good, but this is certainly a matter of personal taste. Maybe you could post an example where you like the blue of the water, so that one can understand what your goal is? Here is an example of mine, from my last trip to the Maledives (I just returned yesterday). Conditions for water were difficult as there was only little light in approx. 30m at approx. 08:00 AM, mediocre visibility (approx. 15m) and cloudy sky. Sony A7R5, Canon 8-15mm f/4 fisheye with 2x Sony TC at 30mm; 1/160s; f/9; ISO 400. Probably you do not like these colors, but when you tell me what you like, I think I can adjust the water to any color you would like to see: Wolfgang

separating the package now, let me know what you're interested in

It’s on the way :-) Now I will get lesson on how my theory meets reality 🤣. The theory - ‘active’ glass with 190deg ‘must’ be sharp and ‘must’ provide Stitch free image. The reality - we shall see… 🤣 My theory behind this housing is that someone important made them do it as one off and so they decided to make a product out of it 🤣 Or they made deal with 360 that X6 with 10bit gonna be the same form factor. Otherwise I am screwed 🤣

Goodman handle: Orcatorch ZD710MK2 or D710 Mounted on housing: 2 x Wurkkos DL08

For sale Nauticam N120 Macro Port 94 #18703 Price = $ 300 with free international shipping | retail $ 660 All my stuff for sale >> https://bit.ly/42RbCdm Location - Dauin, Negros Oriental, Philippines Worldwide shipping by PhilPost 15-30 days (with track number) Payment PayPal / Bank transfer W/o original box, with original o-ring, pouch, silicone Official page https://www.nauticam.com/products/macro-port-94 Nauticam macro Port 94 #18703 officially recommended for lenses Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM Canon EF 180mm f/3.5L Macro USM (with 60mm etension) Canon RF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM ... and also suitable for many others

Hey Duncan! A warm welcome to Waterpixels! You've come to the right place for advice on housings, macro etc ... also on how to empty your bank account. We hope you really enjoy the forum. Best wishes from the team

Good point about warranty, specially with Sea&Sea as their quality has been something to hope for in the past. Havent heard anything about the YS-D130R quality, maybe its better? These are fairly cheap specially after the tax, clocking in at €490 for one or €600 for the pro package.

Resurrecting this little bit as these are cheap in Japan and im going there (other topic in general). How is the battery, havent really seen anything but can use proprietary li-ion or AA as far i as i understood. Is the li-ion only half the side of the normal AA set as pictured? Or can you use rechargeable li-ion AA size in the AA tray?

I am curious as to what focus light do you use, that they have so many different modes? Mine are usually just Flood and Red Light.

Looks like Patch-reef Goby Coryphopterus tortugae https://www.inaturalist.org/taxa/217635-Coryphopterus-tortugae

Hey everyone, I've been diving for almost 10 years, and shooting for a similar amount of time, but not underwater... I'm keen on land macro and will purchase a housing soon to get more out of my dives. Looking forward to no longer trying to memorise nudibranch features during dives and inevitably forgetting half of them!

Will do, Bill!

Is this a Goldspot Goby? Photographed in about three meters of water off Coco View Resort in Roatan, Honduras. Thanks!

Say hello to Luca from the underwater tribe from Bill and Nannette

Aloha and welcome Andrey!

I’ve found some slightly thicker garden irrigation pipe which can squeeze over the end of the L-shaped plug to make a complete cover Looks robust but time will tell

Hi folks, price drop to $1900 for the pair.

The clue is in the name. Rinse. Not soak. My usual strategy is to train the crew to put my camera straight into the basket beneath my spot on the kitting up bench. That gets it well out of the way from places it could fall from or get sloshed and knocked or otherwise be mistreated by other divers and their kit. Then once all divers are recovered and I am de-kitted and the general melee is over, I give it a few minutes rinse while twiddling knobs and pushing buttons. I never leave a camera unattended in a rinse tank for any period of time. I have seen many more (other photographer's) cameras leak in the rinse tank than I have seen leak underwater.

Maybe don't leave your camera in a rinse tank overnight. A rinse tank is the highest risk spot on a boat for a camera. Between flooding (lack of water pressure sealing the orings) and damage from other gear and divers, this is a big risk for zero gain.

Selling 1 or 2 brand new Fotocore GTM strobes from Scubalamp (SUPE video lights manufacturer) Asking 348 US$ for one, 678 US$ for pair | OR best price I bought them for testing only. Never used in salt water. These are compact, very solid aluminum strobes that work great for wide angle, macro, and blackwater. Fast recycle, strong burst performance, huge battery capacity, very wide beam without the reduction ring, and a front bayonet for accessories. They also have a ring flash tube, central focus light, and spherical front glass. A very nice fit for compact systems like TG-5 / TG-6 / TG-7 and similar setups. Why I like them: very fast and consistent recycle !!! really compact and robust enough battery for up to 3-4 dives excellent wide coverage for fisheye-style shooting blackwater useful reduction ring no paying extra for TTL features most people do not need Key specs: 120 Ws, GN 24 7 power levels 160° beam / 110° with reduction ring 0.1–1 sec recycle up to 10 flashes/sec on lower power levels 5000K 100 m rated 500 lm focus light uses 2x 18650 cells no TTL / no S-TTL In my view, these are a very fair-priced alternative to INON Z-240 / Z-330 or Sea & Sea YS-D1 / D2 / D3 if you want a compact, reliable, fast-shooting strobe without the usual overpriced extras. Shipping worldwide from the Philippines: EMS or DHL or FedEx Economy International shipping to USA around $44 (1 pcs) or $65 (2 pcs) = NO BATTERY POLICY https://phlpost.gov.ph/phlpost-rates-2025/ Payment: PayPal or Bank Transfer

All new users must make three posts to gain access to create new topics in all forums. Therefore, the "Start new topic" blue button is almost always missing. However, it should also be removed from the UI of thread https://waterpixels.net/forums/forum/33-critter-identification/ The button "Start new topic" is present in this thread (... but does not allow you to create a new topic and returns an error)

Welcome aboard Andrey, good to have you here.

I went from Z240 to a set of Retra pure strobes, which are about maybe a stop and a bit below the Pro-maxII strobes, If I recall the maxi was ahead of the Pro-MaxII by a near a stop. My strobes are certainly brighter than the Z-240s by maybe 0.7-1 stop and Z330 are probably as bright or a little brighter than my Pure strobes. The Maxi is 1.5- 1.7 stops fatter again, so comfortably faster than the Z330. I've only used up to half power with them so far, while I was half a stop below full power withe Z240 a lot of the time. As far as light quality goes the Retra Maxi seems close to the ProMaxII (and my Pures) which is comfortably better than the Inon Z-240 for me. The Z330 I think is on par with the Z240 for light quality. The thing I did find is that with the reduction rings, with reasonable strobe positioning there is a lot less backscatter - instantly noticeable, both shooting in Lembeh and around Sydney in the temperate waters where particulates are a constant problem.

I think the community would appreciate an online service for embedding copyright information into uploaded photos or videos. This can be done in two ways – if you're interested, please contact me and I'll explain how...

Long-time diver and underwater photographer originally from Russia, living in the Philippines since 2018. I shoot mostly underwater stills and some video, with a strong interest in macro, wide angle, lighting, and the technical side of underwater imaging systems. I’ve spent a lot of time in the water over the years and still enjoy learning, testing gear, and refining technique. Looking forward to reading, sharing, and learning from the experience here. Glad to join Waterpixels!