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I have the GR140Pro and the G165II and my understanding, so far, is: No lens - focus between 50cm to 6m - perfect for general underwater landscape GR140 - focus between 15cm to 2,5m - perfect for walls/reefs wide sceneries G165II - no reference available but I expect something between close-up and macro. The question is how deep is its DOF. I hope for something like 10-60cm, anything less would not be for me. I will test the three configurations and see but in principle I like the idea of having some light softness outside the focus range because it directs the view on the subject. Maybe because I come from photography background, I have never been a fan of infinity focus, on the contrary, I always considered it as a defect. I believe the M1 has to be used differently than other action cams, paying more attention to focusing and framing, just like in photography, but that it not necessary a negative thing and I can understand that for someone it could be a problem. It is not easy to change the way we are used to do things. Of course, for now these are all theories, until I bring all below the surface and test them. One more week to go.

I am not sure I've understood the purpose of the blurry adjustment in post. Can you post also the clip with unadjusted blurry?

Ask and answered.

Is it possible to rig an AOI quick-release lens holder to an AOI cold shoe mount, possibly something like this or this? I plan on taking out the M52/67 threaded mount and rigging the quick-release lens holder to the cold shoe in its place. Originally, I bought two QRS holders to mount onto my arm sections to store my wet lens and macro diopter for when I'm not using them. However, I realized this would cause an uneven weight distribution which might make maneuvering the arms a bit more difficult, and I would not be able to fit enough floats on the arms to make my setup neutrally buoyant. I also figured I would need only one lens holder as I would probably be using either one wet lens or the other at a time, but not neither of them. Alternatively, I could mount the lens holder on another arm section attached horizontally across the handles of my tray, using triple clamps to attach both the horizontal arm section and both my arms. However, this solution is more expensive, so I am trying to make cold shoe solution work, if possible. I believe the QRS lens holder probably will be able to be bolted onto the cold shoe in place of the threaded mount, the problem then would be will the QRS holder be fixed in place on the shoe or will it spin. In the QRS holder for Ultralight arms, the lens holder is held in place by two prongs where the lens holder screws into the arm mount. I noticed on the threaded cold shoe lens holders that there are two holes that look like they might be used to interface with similar prongs. If anybody has both of these mounts on hand, could you test this for me please? PS: If you have the single QRS mount (as opposed to the twin mount), I believe you have to take the square nut out of the lens holder, which you might not want to do.

I see extensions which allowed Nauticam N120 to be used on a Marelux housing, but nothing for the other way round.

Nauticam focus gear for Sony 16-35 f4 ZA OSS. Tested in the pool and on a shallow (25' or so) dive. Works well with the Nauticam zoom gear co-installed. It's designed to work with the N100-N120 35.5mm adapter with gear knob. https://makerworld.com/en/models/3033166-nauticam-focus-gear-for-sony-16-35-f4-za-oss

I shot this last month at the Backscatter DSO in Little Cayman. It is from an Olympus OM-1 in an AOI housing, Backscatter Hybrid for lights. Wide was Lumix 8mm, Macro was m.Zukio 90mm. Would love any advice on how to make it better (besides my prize reef shark being a little out of focus...ugh). Lesson learned so far ... video is hard ... especially macro video!! So much on the cutting room floor.

So beautiful! Will be going there next year and hope to get some footage as soothing and beautiful as yours! :)

Yes - not sure how feasible it would be given space limitations. The power bank battery has a round, body-integrated push button on the opposite side: I'm also very interested in this here: https://thepihut.com/products/power-bank-keepalive-usb-c Instructions do say that it shouldn't be used with PD powerbanks, but not sure what the risks are with the Anker Nano's power delivery. This is beyond my limited understanding of electronics unfortunately. On of the other advantages of the systems is that I can just switch powerbanks - it's much easier to remove the powerbank than to remove the camera to access batteries, especially with a 100mm lens with focus gear.

Ok sweet! That looks like a really good setup you have there @bghazzal ! Thank you so much for the picture, that helps a ton and I like the way it sits reasonably close to the top of the camera body. It never occurred to me to use the top as a mounting point 🤦‍♂️.

Yes, Marelux to Nauticam in N120.

I wonder if you could rig some sort of non contact switch like a magnetic reed switch? I've considered that for the vacuum alarm so I can keep it sealed without killing batteries

Mission 1 PRO Geek Specs source: https://gethypoxic.com/blogs/technical/gopro-mission-1-gp3-image-pipeline?srsltid=AfmBOor-e-oIthDwYXOFHH8EzGzTZNlxCYO8LmyoYK1ITQtIKZ9LK70w

Wonderful! Glad you got it working.

You were absolutely on the right track, and that observation cracked the nut. It was just a tiny amount of dirt on the sensor that was messing things up. I got exactly the same response to cracking the back that you did, and kept trying to figure out how to reposition the lever or move the rubber eye guard on the viewfinder to allow better position. That's when I noticed a thin film of dust on the eye sensor. A quick clean-up with a Q-tip/isopropanol, and now the VF/LCD swich works perfectly. THANK YOU! Now I can assign the C3 button for something more useful. :)

Of note this is not present on the a7iii housing. So likely was a good idea that didn't work too well. I wish that I could do eye detection for the EVF because the I could easily use the LCD for settings like on a traditional DSLR

I see extension rings for using Nauticam ports on Marelux housings, is there a forthcoming extension for doing the opposite?

No problem. My sense was that moving the VF shutter farther away from the VF sensor was what made the difference. Even before I added fresh paint, unlatching the back and letting it sit a few millimeters further back from normal made the switch very reliable. Either way, hopefully it gives you some avenues to pursue to try to get yours working.

Thanks for both replies. My apologies if I came off as dismissive in my first response. I was trying to acknowledge that solution and bend the discussion toward the lever function. Bending the lever restoring function is super interesting! I'll definitely look into that. I wonder if the paint actually is the key, as it doesn't make a ton of sense to have the shutter cover the VF when the switch is in LCD position, unless the reflectivity of the white paint is being used to trigger the "no eye present" signal. I'll try to adjust position and look into how that sensing system on the camera works so we can better fool it with the shutter.

I am a Sony user so I have not tested many Canon lenses full frame but I am curious why the most obvious Canon RF 28-70mm F/2.8 IS STM lens is not listed on the Nauticam or Marelux page for wet wide lenses. It seems small enough and has an expectable minimum focus distance. With the two Nauticam lenses ( WACP-C & WACP-1) and the Aquista 135D the lenses are designed to be their widest at around 28mm with Nauticam at 130 AOV max and Marelux at 135 AOV max. The only three full frame lenses I am aware of that will zoom through the entire zoom range with wet wides are the Sony 28-70mm and 28-60mm kit lenses plus the internal focusing $2900.00 Nikon Z 24-70mm F/2.8 S II which works with the WACP-1/1B and WACP-C with the proper port extension's. The 28-70mm offering give an AOV range from 130-59 degrees while the Sony 28-60 gives an AOV of 130 to 69 degrees. Many Z users have adopted the Sony kits using an adapter to avoid the expensive Nikon lens. I don't believe Sony lenses can be adapted to the Canon RF mount but I could be wrong. Any of the other lenses listed regardless of a starting point of 14mm, 16mm 24mm are all going to need to be zoomed to 28mm to get to 130 degrees without vignetting. Then be zoomed out until they stop or hit the wet lens which is the case with lenses like the Tamron 28-75mm which extends from 28-40mm before hitting the wet lens and gives an AOV from 130 to 90 degrees but only with WACP-1/1B. I don't expect that a 24-105mm would do any better. These limitations are listed on the Nauticam port charts but have not yet been added to the Marelux charts. Next you have the issue of port extension sizes on full frame. Nauticam has both N100 and N120 sizes which complicates the issue somewhat while Marelux uses the five inch system for all current full frame housings. Last you have the issue of the diameter of the wet lens. If you look at WWL-1/1B, WACP-C and WACP-1 they all are widest (130 degrees) at 28mm and get progressively better in terms of corner sharpness and use at lower F/numbers the greater the diameter. The larger the diameter the greater number of lenses that can be used as well with the $11000.00 WACP-2 at 280mm having the greatest number of lens options. With WACP-C at 170mm, Marelux 135D at 180mm and WACP-1/1B at 190mm you should be able to extrapolate out to get an idea of what each wet lens should be able to do in terms of lens selection and the rest. None of the charts for full frame lenses list any primes that I am aware of but that could change going forward. I have a few of the excellent Veltrox primes for lens use above water and intend to try the Viltrox AF 28mm F/1.8 for Sony at some point with Aquista 135D to see how it compares to the lovely Laowa 10 and 12mm F/2.8 offerings. The Laowa 12mm works very well in the Marelux 140mm dome and makes a very small package at a rectilinear 122 degrees.

Sorry, I was trying to save you from having to turn the camera off and on every time you want to switch. I don't use the VF/LCD switch myself as I always use a monitor, but after playing around with mine, I discovered that mine only works when the back of the housing is unlatched and a few millimeters further back than when it's latched. In other words, it seems that when the housing is closed, the VF shutter is too close to the camera to work properly. I then tried bending the VF shutter back some, though there's very little room to bend it back since the housing VF is right behind it. I also tried adding a little bit of fresh white paint inside the little rectangle at the bottom of the shutter (I suspect it plays a role since it passes over the VF sensor). After doing both of these things, my switch now sometimes works with the back latched, but it's still not reliable like when the back is unlatched. I think bending the shutter back was the thing that helped rather than adding the paint. So for a fix (assuming yours has the same issue as mine), I would suggest looking into ways to either move the shutter slightly back or the camera slightly forward.

Had exactly the same problem several years ago: 1 slightly leaking button. The Housing was not even wet.

That much I have been able to learn from various guides online, but it begs the question of why there is a VF/LCD lever with an attached shutter on the housing if it has no function, and if the only way to switch between the two is the use of a custom button assignment.

I don't think it is this as much as it is really easy to over zoom underwater and then be frustrated with the results. Are you at 24 or 28? Sometimes hard to tell. I know I would mess it up. Or maybe I just identified myself as a smart ass customer. You bring up many good points- I really struggle with some of the lenses not projecting fully on the sensor, only because I often find that when you put a lens behind a dome, sometimes the canon profiles get wonky. Or they do stupid things like try to correct a fisheye....like I bought a fisheye for a reason! So you have to turn off the canon profile which then adds to some pretty heavy vingetting and then cropping to not have a meh to bad photo. How will canon lenses and their profiles work with the Aquista 135d? Would be great to know. Just because there will be caveats, that doesn't mean we don't want reviews. For example - the 15-30 STM lens should work as a 130 degree lens at 28-30 (sometimes on Nauticam options) - I would love to see examples of that. Can we see that same option for the Aquista 135d? If so, that would help me want the lens. If the 24-105 STM also worked well but one needed to zoom a bit and doesn't get past 50, I'd just love to see what it looks like behind these dry (or wet) optics. Its not like we don't have tons of caveats and work arounds for all of our time underwater to deal with the challenging lighting conditions.

You should be able to set "Finder/Monitor" to one of the "Manual" modes and set a custom button (such as C3) to "Finder/Moniter Sel." to allow you to quickly switch between them.