bghazzal

The one I use doesn't have a trickle down mode unfortunately, and it's the only one which fits in the housing. I ran a test this morning, plugging in the powerbank and turning on the camera but not using it. Powerbank stayed on for about 20 minutes charging the camera (which went into sleep mode) before shutting down. I first saw the battery LEDs were off but the camera charging LED was still on - and when I activated the camera it was still charging. However I came back 15 minutes later and the this time the camera charging LED was off, and the camera was running on normal camera battery, powerbank completely off. I didn't check levels but I'm guessing battery level had reached 100%, so nothing was happening and the powerbank shut off completely. I ran other tests, basically camera on or off it's impossible to get past the 15 minute mark. It will work fine while diving, it's just that I like to pull the vaccum early before diving, so this limits the application quite a bit. I'm really curious about the keep alive devices and might try one. Ideally I would need a battery pack which only turns on as the camera is turned on and pulling energy, just not sure how practical this is.

No worries, glad it helps. And yes, it slipped my mind, but Smiling Seahorse is definitely photo-centric! They're also spearheading blackwater diving in the area and do trips up to Myanmar. The Deep Andaman Queen is also a great operator. Steve has been doing this for a long time in the area and is really good (and they also go all the way to Myanmar on some longer trips) These are both great recommendations. I'm not familiar with Vela, however.

As an update, the Anker power bank solution has an Achilles' heel: auto power-off. When a device is off or drawing very little current, the power bank turns off and needs to be restarted by pressing a button. Other than turning it on before diving (= opening the housing) or leaving the camera on all the time, even when transiting to the dive site (= defeating the purpose of extending battery life), I don't see a practical solution.

I've worked on the Andaman Sea (liveaboard and day trips) for a few seasons until 2020, and crowds will indeed be difficult to avoid. The area is popular, and the number of local (Thai) divers increased after the pandemic travel bans. You should base yourself in Khao Lak, where 4/5-day liveaboards depart from nearby Thap Lamu Pier, and there are also day trips, hop-on hop-off platforms, etc., reaching both the Similan and Surin national parks. Richelieu Rock (in the Surins Islands NP) is great, but yes, it will be one of the most crowded sites. I've had up to 14 liveaboards on site. Liveaboard four-dives-a-day schedules mean that it's difficult to space out dives by more than 20 minutes, so it gets crowded. I also worked on a speedboat that went to Richelieu from Khao Lak (or more precisely Ban Nam Khem, further north) four times a week. At the time, the two operators offering this were Big Blue and Wetzone. We did managed to dive the site during liveaboard lunch breaks and sometimes had the site to ourselves, but reaching it can be tricky in December with the wind. Big Blue is run, on the Japanese side, by a photographer, Takeshi Omura, but the operation is split between a Japanese side and a rest-of-the-world side, and the photo action is concentrated on the Japanese-speaking section. The other two highlights in the area are Koh Tachai (Pinnacle) and Koh Bon, in the Similans Islands NP. Similans island sites themselves can be nice (sites like 3 Trees and Elephant Head Rock for the topography for instance), but it's more hit or miss, with the three clear highlights being Bon, Tachai, and Richelieu. The area doesn't have amazing biodiversity (compared to places like Indonesia, for instance), but fish density is amazing, and that's one of the highlights, along with the occasional whale shark and giant oceanic manta ray etc. I can't really give recommendations now as my info is outdated, but look into operators like the Phinisi/Junk, Big Blue (which has a new liveaboard, the Blue Dolphin, and has resumed day trips if I'm not mistaken), Wetzone, Seabees, etc. I will say that there were, in my times, operators to avoid, so choose wisely. I'm sure others will have more recent recommendations.

Thanks all. To be clear, I'm looking for ways to streamline the workload because I dive with the camera every second day, while still keeping everything healthy. Leaving the port on works, as does not lubricating the main O-ring after each diving day, which will save time compared to what I do with the clamshell. Removing the flip is a constraint, unless Nauticam's design is easier than AOI's (the AOI requires a special plastic tool to screw in the centre piece). I guess I'll have to find a balance, like removing it once a week or so. I'm familiar with ultrasonic cleaners as I used them for regulator servicing when I worked in diving. They're great, but at the moment I've been doing fine with what I have on hand for manual cleaning. I'll consider getting one in the long term. I'm curious. I know this has been discussed before, but I couldn't find a definitive answer. Is Nauticam's lubricant for grey silicone O-rings a PFPE/PTFE grease like Tribolube or Christolube?

Thanks. I'll ease up on the housing o-ring. On the flip, yes, this seems to be important. I just checked and, as I feared, the AOI double flip has now fused to the LX10 M67 port... The AOI tightening/removal tool is a plastic ring with lugs that engage with indentations on the flip. There's no way it's going to budge now, and forcing it will just break the tool. Lesson learned: remove flips regularly... I'll definitely make sure to do that with the Nauticam triple flip, which is definitely not cheap.

Thanks. I really don't plan on messing with the port o-ring unless I'm changing ports. I'll probably just check and clean it once a month or so. Good to know about the main o-ring. The NA-A1 housing o-ring is roughly four times the size of the NA-LX10 clamshell o-ring, which makes it much easier to inspect visually. Yes, port watermarks are annoying. On my LX10 they just won't come off, even with a light rub using a cerium oxide paste. But they're not visible in the footage when the port is wet, so I just try not to think about them. I'd like to avoid them on the new port, though, so I'll keep making sure no water is left to dry on it (even if it doesn't seemed to have fully avoided their appearance in my case). But yes, rinsing with demineralised water is really a hassle that I'd prefer to avoid if possible!

Thanks. On the Nauticam clamshell, with a thin o-ring, I just prefer cleaning it after a diving day. I had an unexplained flood (lost vacuum 45 minutes into a shallow dive, despite having pulled the vacuum 2 hours earlier) on the third dive after getting the housing in 2020, which made me a little paranoid about o-ring maintenance with the clamshell system. The o-ring side of things has been good since, so almost 6 years. The only time I don't remove and check it is when changing batteries between dives, which is a risk I try to avoid. But now, with a non-clamshell housing and a bigger o-ring, I plan on loosening up on this routine. I've been using the white Nauticam lube for the grey o-rings, as I haven't found a clear confirmation about non-branded substitutes. I guess it's PTFE-based like grease for reg parts, but when in doubt... I use very little anyway, so those little Nauticam tubes go a long way. So you don't really remove ports? Reading Nauticam documentation, they recommends port removal and o-ring maintenance after each diving day, but I can't say I've ever met someone who does this if they're diving the same port... Interesting that you lube strobe o-rings more often than I do. I don't have strobes but video lights, and these don't get as much attention. I re-lube them with silicone when things get a little grippy, and clean and re-lube them maybe once a month (standard silicone grease). Same goes for my dive lights, with no issues. When I do work on them, if the o-rings can be removed easily (Kraken video lights, Backscatter...), I remove them for cleaning and lubrication, but the tighter ones (dive lights) just get lightly wiped and lubed in place. I do have four battery packs for the lights, but one gets much more use than the others now. I have two new Sony batteries for the new rig, but I'll also be using an Anker power bank to power the camera (I have two of those, which I plan on rotating). Any opinion on flip holders? Can they get badly stuck on a port if not removed regularly or does soaking generally avoid that?

Hello all I shore dive 3 to 4 times a week with my "compact" rig, and I'm currently upgrading to a full-frame rig. It's had me thinking about maintenance routines, especially for those of us who dive quite frequently. My current rig routine is fairly simple: I make sure to keep the glass wet after the dive, give everything a quick rinse at the car before loading. When I get home, I soak the housing, lights and dive computer / electronics in fresh water for at least an hour (overnight if it's a late night dive) while pressing all the buttons and working all the knobs and levers. I try to loosen my arm clamps regularly, but I don't completely disassemble them every time. I used to, but with a heavy dive schedule it's just too labour-intensive. These days I simply loosen them while rinsing. If one starts to stiffen up, I'll take it apart, give it a white vinegar rinse to remove any salt build-up, then finish by a wipe using a WD-40 coated towel on the screw thread. I try to give the rig a quick run under the shower after soaking (freeflowing water). When soaking is finished and the rig is drying, I blow on all the glass surfaces (port and diopters), then finish drying them with two microfibre cloths, to avoid water drying on them. I've had some etching on my current port despite being careful. It could have been from the time I was living in East Bali, where the rinse water wasn't great, but because of that, I'm even considering a final rinse with purified water on the glass for the new rig. Not a great fan of the idea, but would really like to avoid this. For the housing O-ring, my current housing is a Nauticam clamshell (NA-LX10) with a small main O-ring. Before each diving day I remove it, clean it, and clean the grooves, and re-lubricate the o-ring while checking it running it through my fingers to check for sand, hair or anything unusual (I'm more of a feeler for this). My new housing (NA-A1) has a larger main O-ring and isn't a clamshell design, which I understand is a little more forgiving. I'm wondering whether it's worth continuing to remove, inspect and relubricate it before every diving day, or whether a careful visual inspection is sufficient if everything looks clean and there was no major sand exposure, with full removal at regular intervals instead. I'm also curious about port maintenance. I'll primarily be using the 100mm port on the new set up. If I'm using the same port for several days, removing and reinstalling it every day doesn't seem particularly practical, or even desirable. For those of you who dive multiple times a week, what's your routine for keeping the port O-ring healthy? One thing I'm also curious about is flip holders. I currently have an AOI double flip on my compact rig, but the full-frame rig will have a Nauticam triple flip that will stay on the 100mm port. I haven't removed the AOI flip since I installed it, but I'm not sure what to do with the new rig. Do people here remove flip holders regularly, or just leave them on? I'm particularly interested in hearing from those of you who dive frequently. Four dives a week, every week is a bit different from a 10-day liveaboard or diving trip, where you can simply do the best you can on site and then give everything a thorough service once you're home. It's also a little different from weekend diving where the rig will sit for 5 days before the next session. Look forward to your thoughts and insights!

Options B will give you more flexibility in tems of placement, and as you wrote will allow to mount something else on there - you can also add a small arm if you need the gopro to be higher for instance. Option A can work, but remember you have a port to clear so might need to have the action cam a little higher to get the right angle. I would definitely go with something flexible like B over A.

As an update, my camera tray finally arrived today and I got the camera in the housing for the first time. I can confirm it works - the Anker powebank fits in the housing and powers/charges the camera - the only thing I will need to look out for is cable routing, to make sure they don't get in the way of any gear operation. I used an 20cm aliexpress 10Gbps ribbon cable for the powerbank. It fits with HDMI cable plugged in (I used a Nauticam HDMI cable rather than my Weefine screen's, as the Nauticam cable is shorter and faces the right way for my camera's HDMI port) Here is the A7SIII in its NA-A1 housing, with the Anker battery pack connected and a Weefine WED-5 Pro screen connected, currently vaccum testing the whole thing (I have the 28-60 in a 100mm port, hence the nasty vignetting - I'll set up the 100mm later today) Depending on camera battery / use, the powerbank charges the battery or, when it gets low, extends battery life. Camera battery was at 65% and it's now up to 78% cheers

Totally agree - it's really difficult to switch from macro mode to wide and vice-versa. You're not focusing on the same subjects, looking at things the same way, or even in the same place in the water column... There is one thing where compacts are pretty cool though - with the wide lens you can get zoom in fully and get shots that are slightly CFWA - the MFD is very small with the wide lens (to the dome glass, basically), so I also do macro with it as well, alternative with a weak diopter or none. It's nice. It's too bad the L10 housing port situation makes this more difficult.

True, but in a lot of locales liveaboard ops use dinghies/RIBs for entries, specifically to be more precise with the drops and to avoid bringing the main vessel close to the reef. More manoeuvrable, more reactive in an emergency, etc. It was a major issue in Thailand's Similans and Surins NP, for instance, but park regulations were amended to make "big boat drops" illegal a few years back. Indonesia is mostly dinghies, and in the Maldives dhoni drops (though these can be quite large) are common, for instance. Not sure what how it's done in Tubbataha.

Have you tried turning off the eye sensor? I read that it doesn't work in the housing anyway You can map a button to switch between the two instead: https://www.nauticam.com/blogs/news/the-sony-underwater-setup-guide-for-a7rv-a7iv-a7siii-and-a1 EVF/LCD Selection Underwater I also want to manually decide between using the EVF or the LCD (this is necessary as the eye sensor doesn't work underwater). To switch between the two underwater we need to disable the automatic switching and assign a custom key to toggle between the two. To do this, we need to navigate to: 'SETUP' > 'Finder/Monitor' and set this to 'Monitor (manual)'. NOTE: We choose 'Monitor' for now, otherwise you'll have to do the rest of this step while looking through the EVF. Next, we'll assign the toggle control to the 'C3' Button which is easily accessible with your left hand on the rear of the housing. Navigate to: 'SETUP' > 'Operation Customize' > 'IMAGE Custom Key Settings' > and assign 'C3' to 'Finder/Monitor'. In the 'Finder/Monitor' menu you can also set the brightness, color, quality and frame rate of the EVF. I prefer to maximize quality and frame rate and generally leave the color and brightness as is.

Very nice, thanks for sharing. One compact you could also look into is the Lumix L10 as well: https://waterpixels.net/forums/topic/3591-panasonic-l10/ Though you won't get Canon colours, Panasonic WB is really good as well (and there's always the option to use a good filter like the Keldan SF -1.5), ans so is IBIS, the L10 has 4K 120fps and high bitrates. I shoot video on the old LX10, and would probably get an LX10 is I were to do a compact upgrade. Main downside for me with the L10 is the form factor, which forces you to use ports like with the LX100 series (body is virtually identical). Otherwise have you looked in the Canon R50 V (video version)? It does 4K60fps.

Snake mackerel (Gempylus serpens) maybe? The good folks on the FB blackwater photo group would know for sure.

Hello all, I'd be interested in sourcing a N100 Flat Port 45 (especially one with a plug to remove the focus knob, which I don't need), shipping to Japan. I plan on 3D printing the zoom gear, but if you have it, why not. Thank you!

Yes, this is the LX100 housing / ergonomics problem I was mentioning above unfortunately (on the LX10 I use a double-flip, as it doesn't need ports). I hope LX100 users have a solution for you, as the L10 housing design seems to work the same in this aspect. The L10 does 4K up to 120fps and higher bitrates, the R50 does not, and you'll need the R50 V (video variant) to get 4K 60fps. However, with the L50 you get access to Canon's RF lens ecosystem, which is a big plus for expanding what you do with the camera.

I'm bumping this thread as I now have an A7SIII, firmware 4.00, and unfortunatelly don't have tracking on or toggle in the focus menu. It's only in stills. Apparently this super helpful function is just not available on the Sony A7SIII curse of old age, I guess...

Yes, this is the same type of stain I have on my port as well - ugly when dry, but doesn't show up when wet (on video at least)

As a follow-up, I can confirm the Anker Nano above powers the A7SIII. Handshake works and it charges the battery when idle. I haven't tried filming in 4K 120fps yet but don't there's no reason it shouldn't work to extend in-cameri battery life. Now i need to find a good ribbon cable for a housing setup.

Thank you both - yes, that was easier than I thought 😃 I just pulled on the cables and the fiber optic cables slid out The power bank fits - now I need to test it with the camera to see it it works. If it does it will just be a question of routing a flat USB cable. The powerbank I got is this one: https://www.anker.com/products/a1653-usb-c-portable-charger-5000mah?variant=42733234258070 Capacity: 5,000mAh USB-C Output: 5V⎓3A / 9V⎓2.22A / 10V⎓2.25A Total Output: 18W Max It has a dual output, male on the length (which I plan on using) and female on the side. I ordered a Ribbon Flat USB-C Data Cable 3A 10Gbps female to male and male to male, we'll see.

I've received a PD power bank that looks like it could work (Anker Nano Power Bank 22.5W), and the camera should arrive in the next couple of days. To test the fit, I'll need to remove the optical cables from the A1 housing, but I'm not sure how theses work. Do I just need to unscrew the two nuts, and then the cables can be removed without any risk to the housing? Thanks

To be precise, this is actually Taiwanese OEM manufacturer Howshot (main distribution channel Divervision ) showing that their adaptor works with the Inon UFL-GR140 lens on the housing.

For what it’s worth, Nauticam (Phil) also confirmed that the coating is on the interior surface of the flat port glass, not the exterior (“The optical coating is just on the interior surface of the glass.”). I have staining or etching on mine despite not allowing water to dry on it. I tried a premixed Japanese cerium oxide paste recently, but the marks remain. I did not continue for long for fear of making things worse. As far as I can tell, the marks are not visible when the glass is wet.