bghazzal

Options B will give you more flexibility in tems of placement, and as you wrote will allow to mount something else on there - you can also add a small arm if you need the gopro to be higher for instance. Option A can work, but remember you have a port to clear so might need to have the action cam a little higher to get the right angle. I would definitely go with something flexible like B over A.

As an update, my camera tray finally arrived today and I got the camera in the housing for the first time. I can confirm it works - the Anker powebank fits in the housing and powers/charges the camera - the only thing I will need to look out for is cable routing, to make sure they don't get in the way of any gear operation. I used an 20cm aliexpress 10Gbps ribbon cable for the powerbank. It fits with HDMI cable plugged in (I used a Nauticam HDMI cable rather than my Weefine screen's, as the Nauticam cable is shorter and faces the right way for my camera's HDMI port) Here is the A7SIII in its NA-A1 housing, with the Anker battery pack connected and a Weefine WED-5 Pro screen connected, currently vaccum testing the whole thing (I have the 28-60 in a 100mm port, hence the nasty vignetting - I'll set up the 100mm later today) Depending on camera battery / use, the powerbank charges the battery or, when it gets low, extends battery life. Camera battery was at 65% and it's now up to 78% cheers

Totally agree - it's really difficult to switch from macro mode to wide and vice-versa. You're not focusing on the same subjects, looking at things the same way, or even in the same place in the water column... There is one thing where compacts are pretty cool though - with the wide lens you can get zoom in fully and get shots that are slightly CFWA - the MFD is very small with the wide lens (to the dome glass, basically), so I also do macro with it as well, alternative with a weak diopter or none. It's nice. It's too bad the L10 housing port situation makes this more difficult.

True, but in a lot of locales liveaboard ops use dinghies/RIBs for entries, specifically to be more precise with the drops and to avoid bringing the main vessel close to the reef. More manoeuvrable, more reactive in an emergency, etc. It was a major issue in Thailand's Similans and Surins NP, for instance, but park regulations were amended to make "big boat drops" illegal a few years back. Indonesia is mostly dinghies, and in the Maldives dhoni drops (though these can be quite large) are common, for instance. Not sure what how it's done in Tubbataha.

Have you tried turning off the eye sensor? I read that it doesn't work in the housing anyway You can map a button to switch between the two instead: https://www.nauticam.com/blogs/news/the-sony-underwater-setup-guide-for-a7rv-a7iv-a7siii-and-a1 EVF/LCD Selection Underwater I also want to manually decide between using the EVF or the LCD (this is necessary as the eye sensor doesn't work underwater). To switch between the two underwater we need to disable the automatic switching and assign a custom key to toggle between the two. To do this, we need to navigate to: 'SETUP' > 'Finder/Monitor' and set this to 'Monitor (manual)'. NOTE: We choose 'Monitor' for now, otherwise you'll have to do the rest of this step while looking through the EVF. Next, we'll assign the toggle control to the 'C3' Button which is easily accessible with your left hand on the rear of the housing. Navigate to: 'SETUP' > 'Operation Customize' > 'IMAGE Custom Key Settings' > and assign 'C3' to 'Finder/Monitor'. In the 'Finder/Monitor' menu you can also set the brightness, color, quality and frame rate of the EVF. I prefer to maximize quality and frame rate and generally leave the color and brightness as is.

Very nice, thanks for sharing. One compact you could also look into is the Lumix L10 as well: https://waterpixels.net/forums/topic/3591-panasonic-l10/ Though you won't get Canon colours, Panasonic WB is really good as well (and there's always the option to use a good filter like the Keldan SF -1.5), ans so is IBIS, the L10 has 4K 120fps and high bitrates. I shoot video on the old LX10, and would probably get an LX10 is I were to do a compact upgrade. Main downside for me with the L10 is the form factor, which forces you to use ports like with the LX100 series (body is virtually identical). Otherwise have you looked in the Canon R50 V (video version)? It does 4K60fps.

Snake mackerel (Gempylus serpens) maybe? The good folks on the FB blackwater photo group would know for sure.

Hello all, I'd be interested in sourcing a N100 Flat Port 45 (especially one with a plug to remove the focus knob, which I don't need), shipping to Japan. I plan on 3D printing the zoom gear, but if you have it, why not. Thank you!

Yes, this is the LX100 housing / ergonomics problem I was mentioning above unfortunately (on the LX10 I use a double-flip, as it doesn't need ports). I hope LX100 users have a solution for you, as the L10 housing design seems to work the same in this aspect. The L10 does 4K up to 120fps and higher bitrates, the R50 does not, and you'll need the R50 V (video variant) to get 4K 60fps. However, with the L50 you get access to Canon's RF lens ecosystem, which is a big plus for expanding what you do with the camera.

I'm bumping this thread as I now have an A7SIII, firmware 4.00, and unfortunatelly don't have tracking on or toggle in the focus menu. It's only in stills. Apparently this super helpful function is just not available on the Sony A7SIII curse of old age, I guess...

Yes, this is the same type of stain I have on my port as well - ugly when dry, but doesn't show up when wet (on video at least)

As a follow-up, I can confirm the Anker Nano above powers the A7SIII. Handshake works and it charges the battery when idle. I haven't tried filming in 4K 120fps yet but don't there's no reason it shouldn't work to extend in-cameri battery life. Now i need to find a good ribbon cable for a housing setup.

Thank you both - yes, that was easier than I thought 😃 I just pulled on the cables and the fiber optic cables slid out The power bank fits - now I need to test it with the camera to see it it works. If it does it will just be a question of routing a flat USB cable. The powerbank I got is this one: https://www.anker.com/products/a1653-usb-c-portable-charger-5000mah?variant=42733234258070 Capacity: 5,000mAh USB-C Output: 5V⎓3A / 9V⎓2.22A / 10V⎓2.25A Total Output: 18W Max It has a dual output, male on the length (which I plan on using) and female on the side. I ordered a Ribbon Flat USB-C Data Cable 3A 10Gbps female to male and male to male, we'll see.

I've received a PD power bank that looks like it could work (Anker Nano Power Bank 22.5W), and the camera should arrive in the next couple of days. To test the fit, I'll need to remove the optical cables from the A1 housing, but I'm not sure how theses work. Do I just need to unscrew the two nuts, and then the cables can be removed without any risk to the housing? Thanks

To be precise, this is actually Taiwanese OEM manufacturer Howshot (main distribution channel Divervision ) showing that their adaptor works with the Inon UFL-GR140 lens on the housing.