Christian K

Complement visually. Not to bring on the same dive. But when you mention it… Mainly interested in impressions and experiences from using z105+MFO3.

So, who's shooting Nikon z 105 with the MFO 3? I'm looking at that set-up as a travel complement to z24-50+WWL-C. Any input and feedback is very welcome.

I ”roll” with my camera in my lap. One hand on strap, one on camera. I also giant stride with my camera in hand, have perfected technique to hold it as low/close to the surface as I can and then lift it as I jump and giving it a gentle entry. Has worked perfectly for me. YMMV.

Went on her for a week in March 13-21. They run a pretty tight show, which is needed because the boat take 26 guests. We were 24 divided into three groups. The trip was called ’sharktastic’ and focused on channel dives in S Male, Vaavu and Meemu atoll. A few dives in N Male as well. From a photographic perspective, not a very productive trip which I knew beforehand. We did see a lot of reef sharks (grey, wt, bt), nurse sharks as well as eagle rays and a rare sighting of scalloped hammerheads (group) off Foteyo kandu in the blue, but they all keep their distance (besides the nurse sharks) making it difficult on this type of dives with a lot of hooking in. Nice sightings nevertheless. Had a manta ray passing by on one dive and we also did an extra day with two dives on shark tank in Male after the liveaboard, where we had a quite big tiger shark, lemon sharks and a shovel nosed ray. Went with Ocean Warrior dive centre in N Male for shark tank and they do not use bait, which many others do. So no sharks close enough for any good photos. But very good local dive center that arranged a larger rinse tank especially for me on their boat. Good and relaxed guide who’s name escapes me—young Maldivian guy. Emperor Voyager is what it is. A solid liveaboard that works pretty ok for someone shooting/videoing. Spacious dive dhoni with a fairly big rinse tank. Would be too small if there had been 3-4 ff rigs at once though, I was the only one carrying a ’bigger’ camera (Nikon z6iii in Nauticam house with 2x strobes and wet optics). Had a lovely french guide named Margeaux, very attentive and she tried to make the most out of the trip. Cruise Director a meticulous man who definitely rivals the longest and most detailed briefings in the history of scuba. Delicious food. Good crew. Friendly atmosphere, but a little ’machine like’ operation, which is to be expected. But all in all a great trip for seeing some classic Maldivian channel dives. Courtesy of Ocean Warrior (from GoPro)

I would say it might be a mistake to assume that a lens performing optically better on land will be superior/sharper UW. Not always the case. Nikon 14-24 anyone? You shoot a whole system. And fisheye lenses are normally easier to get sharp results from. The tough ones are inme (and quite a few others experience too) the wide rectilinear lenses (like Nikon 14-24). And since the Tokina fisheye zoom 10-17 was mentioned, the reason it wasn’t that popular for land photography isn’t because it’s a ”bad” lens optically… I don’t think it is, it is because it’s an odd ball lens.

Looking for any feedback and experience on using the MFO-3 with a Nikon Z ff. You don’t happen to be shooting Nikon Paul?

A lot of good thoughts. I don’t think there is one right answer, as usually. It depends. Just came from a Emperor liveaboard in the Maldives and it had a big dedicated tank for cameras. Nothing but cameras could go into it. I had no worries leaving my Nauticam rig in it over night. I’ve been on boats that had no good options, mostly day boats, then I have made sure they supply a big enough bucket or fresh water to fill up a cooler bag (brought by me). I don’t like to just ”dunk” the camera and then let it dry with all the salt. Did I say that in 25 years or so I’ve yet never flooded a camera? 🤣 Touch wood. My advice would be to reach out to the organizers, if possible the cruise director, and ask about what amenities and routines the have for guys with big equipment…

Proudly worn on liveaboard, in Vavuu atoll, Maldives..

The whole Persian gulf is very shallow. Max depth near Musandam is somewhere 200 meters and the average in the gulf a mere 50-60 meters. So that has a big impact.

it is not as straightforward as better lens=better underwater. Do not own the FCP (would like to) but I think the z24-50 is what’s recommended.

Yeah, there are rogue ones in most places. And it might be individual confusion sometimes and explanations needed—tax on import of goods is after all normal for most countries. But trying to tax someones personal property which they bring in and then back out… that is a scam and afaik not the norm , even in Mexico. You need to pay ”camera tax” tho in some marine park areas on top of regular fees, in Indonesia too. Not a lot and I see it as a marine conservation contribution.

A ”better” lens does not always yield better results than a cheaper one when you put it under water, behind domes or wet optics. The front element plays a role here and at what angle light from dome/wet lens hits the optics. So better check out what Nauticams tests say. The cheap 16-50 might be sharper for a particular set-up. I use the z24-50 for wwl1C and works very well.

Have not had any issues entering Indonesia or heard of anything like it from other divers/photographers. Almost always questions about and brief examinations of gear, but not more than that.

Saw that one too. Mr Doubilet sure knows how to travel in style.

No Canon 28-70 that will work with the WWL1B? I don’t see the WWL as a replacement for the 10-17 or any other fisheye. It is a rectilinear zoom. In my case, replacing a 10-20 or 10-24 crop sensor zoom behind a large dome port. Not sure what the Canon equiv. would have been (10-22?). If you have/get a Canon/Sigma 15 mm FE that works with a new Canon FF body, that would cover a lot of WA-needs in combo with a wet Nauticam-lens and a zoom. I’m waiting for a z-FE (perhaps in vain) as older FE:s won’t autofocus with the new Nikons, unless using adapters. Might come to that for me.

Also went FF from cropped recently (Nikon Dxxx:s of various generations in Hugyfot housings). Tokina 10-17, Nikon 10.5 and a Sigma 10-20 rectilinear was my work horses. Nauticams wet optics is what pulled me to them when I made the transition. They have rectilinear wide ones and a Fisheye one too. Some will cost you as a whole rig tho, which might or might not be an issue… I shoot Nikon FF so have limited info to share on specific Canon combos for wet lenses. If there’s a good 28-70 zoom it should be good with the WWL1B (guessing here based on Nikon and Sony solutions) and give 70-130 rectlinear degrees throughout the zoom. And then for 24-50 the WWWL1C giving the same FoV in a slightly smaller and very trave- friendly package. I hear the Canon 24-50 is sheit though. Can not say. Nikons z-version is very sharp (but a little plastic).

Pretty good starting point from where you are 🙂 Welcome!

I’ve found it much easier to be snorkeling. Strobes a bit down to light up and even out exposre. I guess the design of the housing also comes into play. Never had any real issues with my old Hugyfot housings, have yet to try with my new Naticam set-up. Fisheye a must.

Yup NA6III does not ”look back” and is very compact as a result. So from a packing/travel perspective the new generation Nikon Nauticams are very competitive. Don’t know about the Sony/Canon situation…

A fellow Swede go tomorrow. Trick he say is, if you go from far away, fly to Mexico City and then domestic to CSL. I’m boycotting until this is dealt with in a trustworthy way. There are so many other places.

You need to be at the other end of the process you describe. That is the sane and logical choice. But if you let sanity in, you probably wouldn’t be doing UW-photography in the first place… 🙂

I go solo when possible. I also make it a challenge to incorporate divers or snorkelers in my images.

This is a very impressive project. I mean, really impressive.

Wow.

Coming from DX and went to a Nikon Z last year. Shoot almost only WA of various types and shapes, my workhorses were the Tokina 10-17, a Sigma 10-20 and Nikons 10,5 FE in Hugyfot housings behind domes of different sizes. Went to Nauticam much due to them being inventive with water corrected optics. The wwl-c and 24-50 is a great set-up and it’s very capable. Much better than any rectilinear zoom in a domeport that I have seen. Much sharper all-over. Nimble and easy to handle. The best for travel. I’m not sure how difficult it is or what the end results would be if you adapt the wwl-c to other housings, so can’t help you there. Previous poster seem to have done a great job with an Aquatica housing. Myself would not be able to pull that off—ymmv. Being in Sweden (?) you should really reach out to and have a chat with Magnus Lundgren @Underwater Exposure in Malmö, he has a ton of experience with various set-ups, wet optics (shoot Sony atm) and is very friendly. Hej från Stockholm ✋🏻