Christian K

Yes. A flashtrigger and strobes that does HSS. Turtle, UW Technics… depending on strobes. I have shot with old strobes that don’t do HSS and another z-model doing max 1/200, in bright tropical waters and haven’t felt that limited by it, tbh. But will upgrade it eventually, to increase flexibility. EDIT. WWL-c and 24-50 does not need to be shot at super small apertures, it’s sharp all across and acceptable already at 5.6 or 6.3 and up, is nice with some added DoF in image. F8 and 1/125 my starting point. *Have dived and shot plenty in the Red Sea and wouldn’t worry. Matt tested it in GC which is super bright so a good comparison point.

Not necessarily. Z6iii is bigger and I went that route with Nauticam and actually downsized from Nikon DX xxx:s in Hugyfot, which is a very tight housing. Then you have the wwl-c and 24-50, which is petit and covers a lot of WA and CFWA. So old rules do not always apply (hate it when it happens). The z5ii is even smaller, so is the Nauticam Z5ii housing. It ain’t cheap though, that’s for sure. But not crazy steep either. Would be very interesting to see it with the wwl-c next to a OLY Nauticam with the same or a smallish dome. EDIT If you haven’t already, watch Alex and Matt Sullivans reaction to z5ii+Nauticam in the UWP-Show posted earlier. Size was brought up.

In general regarding IQ, yes it has peaked already in the DSLR days inmo. DR, noise levels, MP:s has been more than anyone need to create stunning images for all types of usage for some time back (actually did an outdoor poster ad 115x185 cm) out of a 12 mp D2x file some 20 years ago). Now it’s speed and smart power usage, physical size, file sizes and probably a couple more that can see real usable improvements. YMMV. Then there will always be measurebators of course that will tell you different…

I am looking into this combo too, would you say it ”transforms” the 105 to a 60, roughly? Great idea with face of your buddy (?j in the background.

Matt and Alex are on here from time to time. Perhaps they can help if you have detailed questions about shooting that particular (z5ii+Nauticam) set-up. It will be a 7000-8000ish US$ investment which is money, but not a lot in the UW photo business tbh. But I heard mines are doing well down under 😁

What can you say about size and weight? Small, light and travel friendly compared to other strobes you’ve had/encountered?

45 degree viewfinder could be an alternative. Inmo the EVF:s in the new mirrorless cameras is a huge wow! Let’s pray for your stocks to sky rocket 🙏🏻

They are working, yes. And what you don’t know you don’t know. But I want HSS—that I know. A bit more light, sure, but not if it costs me too much size and weight. Have 0 issues with dropping AA:s. Video light nice to have, but again not if it means too much extra weight and size compared to my z240:s. So…

Roughly about sensors, the bigger they are and the lesser the MP count is, you get cleaner (less noise) files in higher ISO:s. And the bigger sensor, the more dynamic range. As a rule of thumb. So for bigger lowlight scenes where you'd might want to bump your ISO up, a bigger sensor will deliver cleaner images. I would also, if I were you coming from the SLR days, pay some attention to autofocus performance, especially if you go mirrorless. Even some newer models lack a little and you'd might experience them as sluggish. Go to a camera store or some photo fair and try. Read tests and get a sense for how they stack up. Good luck. And it is expensive, but you already knew that.

Another dinosaur here still using z240:s--they just keep on pumping. Might be replacing them this fall before I head to Indonesia, but they work and I know how to use them. Perhaps Inon again... if they release the z360 anytime soon. But won't shy away from other choices either. I like that they give plenty of light for their very little size. Have the infrastructure for AA:s already, so that could be steering me towards Inon or Retra, but not a deal breaker. Already have standard 21700 lithiums in a few lights too so... could easily restructure for that too. Don't care for TTL. Must have HSS capability in the next ones. Then--travel friendly. Can do a little bit bigger than z240:s but not a lot. And not a lot heavier either. Hybrid nice to have. Not a must.

Can you post some examples of what type of images you take with this system you have put together? What kind of FoV are you getting?

If I where buying today and wanted something small and high-level w/o ”breaking” the bank, I’d take a serious look at Nikons new little fullframe z5ii. Throw it in a Nauticam with the 24-50 and put a wwl-c on it and you have a very tiny package with a serious punch. For macro there’s the ”new” z105 lens. Smaller than a lot of cropped sensor alternatives.

Why don’t someone just make a classic 15 mm fisheye lens for the new mirrorless bodies. Optimally a 15-30 fisheye zoom, but that would be too much asked for. I’ll take a 15 prime thank you.

Wish i’d have seen this post before I ordered a new macro port from Nauticam to replace one with blotches on the glass.

The letter from the ”secretary of tourism” unfortunately does not suggest any positive actions for uw-photographers or divers. The ATA documents will significantly increase the cost of bringing your personal equipment into Mexico, so I think it will actually create more incentive for ”enterprenaurial” initiatives by individual customs personnel. Completely detached inmo. Personally I’ve had Socorro on my list too, but will boycott and go to Malpelo, Galapagos or Cocos instead in that side of the world.

Ridiculous. This Bernardo Cueto Riestra is either too lazy to grasp the issue and why it is unreasonable, or he just don’t care—which is his job as the secretary of tourism. I cancelled a WS in Socorro earlier this year and went to the Maldives instead to shoot sharks.

HSS Size/weight Battery type

I’ve taken the wwl-c off under water and shot the 24-50 @50, holding the wwl in hand. Not directly optimal but it worked occasionally. It’s more or less neutral uw thanks to a buoyancy collar. Much smaller than a dome. Very easy. Could stuff it in a pocket or, I’d imagine, use some kind of flip. Haven’t seen or heard about anyone doing it. Seem feasible tho. WWL-C covers a lot of WA/CFWA needs. You can lens correct afterwards if you want it straighter. Otoh it’s sharper than a FF WA zoom behind a dome (can’t fix that afterwards). But it’s not a full fisheye. So if you want to be able to do splits or need the full 180 degrees, add a dome or adaptation of your existing S&S dome to your budget to use the 8-15. I belive there actually are adapters made by Nauticam for S&S ports, again—talk to Magnus at exposure underwater. Surprisingly close race on the money, I’d have thought a Nauticam z8-rig would be noticeably more expensive than an isota ditto. Well, well…

Sounds to me like you have reached a decision 🙂. I’d suggest picking up the phone and have a chat with Magnus @exposureunderwater in Malmö. He’d be able to give you the lowdown. And I’m pretty sure he recently received a lightly used macro port that could or could not be a part of your z8-package. Lycka till!

Can’t help you with any real advice, sorry, but even if the mount is the same you are as Bon Jovi sings, halfway there. Where AI seem to screw it up is the flange distance. Camera bodies sit at different distances to the opening in different UW housings. This is camera model specific. So you need to examine the Isotta z8 housing compared to a Sea&Sea z8 housing and measure the cameras position in each, and then calculate what needs to be added or subtracted in the way of isotta extensions for each specific lens and port. If you’re lucky, someone trustworthy has already done it and you don’t need to make any mistakes. Or you can volunteer as a guinea pig 🙂. YMMV.

You need to double and triple check AI. Gets it wrong consistently.

The 14-30 is not quite as wide as the 24-50+wwl. It would be equivalent to app. a 11-31. It has a light barrel distortion at 24. You can unscrew the wwl uw and shoot the 24-50 behind the flat port, if you’d find a suitable situation for that. Slightly bent curves @24

I’m tagging along here since my diving in the Similans, Ko Bon/Tachai is more than 25 years ago. Need advice on smaller (less than 20 guests) liveaboard that is a decent choice for us photographers. Will be in Thailand in mid January on my way home from Indonesia, so might be able to revisit these sites and shoot some. Any ideas? I guess @bghazzal might have one or two…

I too have been intrigued by the MWL but kind of didn’t pursue due to the allegedly poor results unless shooting very stopped down. As @Chris Ross I too couldn’t find a lot of feedback on it. @Dave_Hicks does the Kraken glass give the same FoV (150 degrees IIRC) on the wide end? Am using a WWL now and find myself at either end, never in between, so zooming in between not that useful to me.

@Adventurer I'm not familiar with that reputation and I think you might be totally wrong there. According to Nauticam (having consulted Ryan Canon as well as a few others who frequently have used both wwl:s) there are no IQ differences, only different optimization for different focal lengths. So I don't know where you get that from? I've also researched the WACP-C as an option to the wwl:s and consulted Nauticam reps as well as a few "qualified" Nauticam shooters, ready to spend the €€€€, but they all advised any IQ variations would be hard to detect, much like the conclusion Interceptor came to in the pool test you referred to earlier. One big difference is if you're in the surface a lot and will have an issue with the wet "layer" of the optics. There are of course many variables going into what suits "you" and your shooting. YMMV.