ChipBPhoto

Congrats @Underwater with Art ! Thanks for sharing. We look forward to hearing how it continues to hold up over the longer haul and, if needed, how the service aspect is handled. Enjoy! chip

Hi @RVBldr The DP-100 became the mainstay of crop sensor photographers with the Tokina 10-17. In my experience, the DP-100 also produces quality images with the 8-15 when paired with the appropriate FF body. Having a shade that is removable and replaceable shade during the dive is a bonus as is the extremely small size. For the Sony a7C (24MP FF) or even the a7C II (33MP FF), most will typically find the image quality to be solid, especially considering the shade and size aspects. With that said, ultra high MP cameras, such as the a1, a7CR, a7rV, etc. typically benefit from the higher quality produced with a slightly larger 140 dome. There is a Nauticam version that has a removable shade, which I own. The decision to dive with or without the shade must be done pre-dive due to the 9 tiny screws that must be removed to remove the shade. While the flexibility is not as great, the quality difference makes this the right choice. Another important consideration is if you will want to add a teleconverter to the 8-15 for a little extra reach. If so, this basically eliminates the DP-100 due to the quite noticeable "smearing" or distortion around the image edges with FF cameras. This does not occur with the 140 dome. I frequently dive with a 1.4x TC and notice no image quality difference whether with or without the TC. Hope this helps, chip

Hi @atus great question! I travel frequently and basically do not carry a laptop any longer. Lightroom mobile is incredibly powerful! There is a tiny learning curve as the interface is a bit different than the classic version, but basically all you typlically will need is included. Equipment: iPad Pro - 11” 2022 w M1. (Currently M4 at the same price i paid) Enough memory cards to not require reuse during the trip (fairly cheap now) An SSD (I use a 1TB Samsung T7 or T9) USB-C dongle w/ card slot, plug for SSD cable, and power connection plug Strategy: Each night upload all photos/videos to SSD using dongle w card inserted Do not format card (super important for redundancy) Upload some of my favorite images to Lightroom mobile Edit as desired Repeat daily For return trip, pack memory cards and SSD in different bags to preserve full redundancy (I.e. cards in my backpack and SSD with in my dive bag or other carry on) Once home, import remaining images from SSD Rename all to desired trip name w date, sequence numbers, etc. Duplicates of previously uploaded images will not upload again All edits made during the trip will sync so long as you have the feature enabled Any edits that require additional plugins can then be made on the home computer. Once redundant images are no longer needed, format the memory cards and reuse. Do the same with SSD as desired and/or fits in your normal workflow I am a Mac person which is why I use an iPad. If you use Windows, the Surface would also be a perfect choice. Either way, a laptop is no longer required to have a successful, connected trip. Traveling light is incredibly lberating! Enjoy! Chip

Thanks, @Jules I have already secured one. Cheers! chip

Definitely a good question. Seems we don’t know yet. From the released images, they appear to have the same controls. I’m sure we’ll find out in the coming days.

Hi @Susa - yes, it looks to be correct. That simply means Sony used the same body design for the new a7V as they did for the a7rV. That’s not completely unexpected as the a7rV is a relatively new body design. The a1 and a7sIII also share the same housing, with the addition of a slightly different mounting tray for the a7sIII. For us, this is a big win! We can use the same housing for two different excellent cameras! Now if the upcoming a7rVI keeps the same body, well, that will be monumental! But, as in diving, let’s not hold our breath. 🤔😂

Hi @foetusmachine - to you get the info you want, it would be helpful if you would share specific lenses or purposes (wide angle, CFWA, macro, etc.) for which you are seeking. In addition to the Laowa 10mm Chris shared, I frequently use the Nauticam 140 with the Canon EF 8-15 with the MC-11 adaptor with my Sony a1, and Sony a7rIV previously. While not native Sony glass, this system works extremely well with the 140 dome for both wide angle and CFWA. It also works well with the Kenko 1.4x TC without significant loss of corner sharpness. In short, this is the most frequent combination and use case for the 140 dome due to the full hemispherical design. Hope this helps, chip

@Dave_Hicks great frames! You win the Gold for making photoing in low viz look easy. What do you think about the quality of light between the HF-1s and Maxis in your home water, both with 4500 diffusers? About the same? Or is one better than another?

Hi @Dave_Hicks thanks for the initial thoughts. The main reason I moved from the Inon Z-330 v2 to the HF-1 was for a more powerful light for wide scenes. When conditions improve, I am quite interested in the overall light quality of the new Maxi. The Maxi is a cooler temp and smaller diameter tube. It seems the wide diffuser is needed to come close to the bare Pro Max strobe. When the diffuser is added to the Maxi, how does it compare to both the Pro Max and HF-1 in overall even spread and quality? With the diffuser added, is the light harsh or a bit softer such as the Pro Max is known to provide? With the diffuser added, how is the net output coverage compared to the HF-1 and bare Pro Max? Thanks in advance! Chip

I agree. Seems to be an MF-2 with Sony TTL and perhaps a bit brighter focus light added.

Also keep in mind that adding a teleconverter will always impact image quality to some degree by its nature. A 1.4x TC will have less of an impact than a 2x, but there is a degree of difference compared to native image quality. As @Dave_Hicks mentioned, there are ways to make the most of the situation. In the end it’s a trade off of ultimate image quality vs having a little extra “reach” with the addition of the TC. Neither is better than the other, it’s just a trade off based on need and desired results.

Even though you’re on the West coast, reach out to Reef Photo in Ft Lauderdale if you get in a Nauticam bind. They are connected to Nauticam USA. Ikelite is the least expensive. There are reasons. I’ve owned a couple and have been much more happy with the build quality of Nauticam. Get what you pay for.

This is most excellent news! I was thinking it would fit. Good to know. The 30mm macro may also fit? He doesn’t have the special gear needed to flip the macro switch mid-dive and I’m not a fan of $800+ to add it. I prefer to dive/photo with purpose rather than a do-everything approach.

UPDATE: Thanks to fellow member @RickMo , my buddy has settled on a previously enjoyed E-M1ii in a Nauticam housing. He is super excited to begin his journey of spending all his disposable income, and then some, in this underwater addiction. 😁 Thank you to all for the fantastic comments and suggestions! The global users on their forum are such an incredible wealth of knowledge and experience. And a huge thank you to our wonderful mods such as @Chris Ross and @Davide DB for their first-hand knowledge in the m4/3 world! Happy New Year and much diving in 2026!!

Thanks for the good info @Klaus . The smaller the equipment, the more delicate they can be. A little care goes a long way. In other words, just because there is a bigger hammer, don't use. :-)

Thanks @Chris Ross - It's amazing how small the Zen mini dome is, especially compared to the 8-15. Good call on the Pany 8mm having a bit of a CA. Nice galleries! Love seeing the coral walls.

@Davide DB Nice! And a great pic of you in uw action. The size is the big winner of the day for sure!

Funny you mention the mini dome, I saw an N85 Zen 100 dome today. It’s crazy small! And with the 8mm f/3.5 lens no extension is needed. Seems like a solid option.

Great suggestion @Grantmac - thanks! What lens do you like / use the most?

Excellent - thanks @MatthewSullivan , really appreciate it!! Added bonus - I know you are a very fair, realistic reviewer as well!

I have a buddy considering entering uw photography. He wants a cost effective system, small body with interchangeable lens. I am strongly considering the m4/3 options, specifically the OM-D E-M5 mark III vs OM-D E-M10 IV as recommendations. The least expensive option is the OM-D E-M10 IV including the AOI poly housing for ~$1600 USD. Questions: Seems the E-M5 III has faster focus, but is it a major difference? E-M5 III also requires a more expensive housing. If properly cared for, are there any downsides to the AOI housing? How is the image quality of 14-42 EZ lens and the AOI wet mount wide lens? I appreciate any feedback on these specific models and the AOI housing. @Chris Ross I know you have extensive knowledge in the m4/3 world. Many thanks! chip **Please note - I have extensive experience with Sony and Canon models. I own and use the Sony a1, Sony a6700, and Canon R5 as well as others in the past. I also owned the E-M1 and loved it for a variety of reasons. In my experience the m4/3 seems to be a solid option for his specific needs, but appreciate current info and user experience on the points above.

Hi, @Susa - I have the a1 which I upgraded to from the a7rIV. The auto focus is extremely fast and very 'sticky' to the subject. Above the waves I do a fair amount of airshows which involves many of the same techniques, challenges, and performance needs as bird photography. While in the 'photo pit' at various shows there are a fair number of a1 users as well as a7rV. Even though there are some minimal differences, both deliver exceptional results. I have seen this in both my own images as well as those I have met. While I have not yet run across the a7V (not 'r') as it is so new, the specs and tech on which it is built are very solid. The lens also makes a tremendous difference in high-action photography. The Sony 200-600 is the go-to for bird and airshow enthusiasts. With that said, I met someone who brought a Sony 300 f/4. Yes, there was a significant difference in the image quality. But then again, he traveled the country doing the airshows and had mastered the techniques that warranted that level of investment. As @Davide DB points out, the a1 is the 'best of the best.' The question really comes down to will you get an appreciative benefit for the last ~10% of a performance gain for the over double the price difference? Regarding video, please also keep in mind that filming in high res on a mirrorless will cause the cameras to run hot, in some cases extremely hot. 4K 120p, as an example, puts an incredible demand on the body and generates a lot of heat. 8K is even more taxing. Many who do a large amount of high res video will often add an external recorder to move the heat from the memory card writing away from the body. This adds an entirely different financial aspect to the equation and not one I am suggesting. Adding proper quality video lighting adds yet another dimension. With this said, doing the occasional 1 min or less video clips along with mainly still photography should be fine. I just want to share an aspect many do not mention when discussing 4K or higher video specs. Without trying to sound cliche, once one reaches this level of equipment, it's not the gear, but rather the user that makes the difference. Regardless of your decision, once you master the strengths and limitations of the system you choose, you will have the ability to deliver consistent, quality results. Enjoy, chip

@Davide DB That is true wisdom and some of the best advice for us all. Nothing beats the experience gained and the memories made from using the gear in which we invested so much. Truth is, there are really no “bad” cameras these days, especially the ones being discussed.

I personally owned the SMC-1 for years and now own the SMC-3. Honestly, they are very similar in 'real life' usage. To me, the biggest improvement is the SMC-3 is smaller and lighter. As far as image quality, they are both exceptional, once you get the hang of the very short working distance. Yes, the SMC-3 has a slightly larger working distance, but nothing that is worthy of selling an existing SMC-1 and purchasing the SMC-3. It just makes it a little more usable in the everyday usage. The SMC-1 is discontinued and removed from the Nauticam charts because they are basically the same thing designed for the same task with similar specs. Think of the SMC-3 as a 'v2' of the original SMC-1. Hope this helps, chip

For some, the 4K120 video crop could be a consideration; thanks for sharing. It is not a big consideration for me, but could be for those who are more video-focused.