ChipBPhoto

In the SoFL dive community, S&S are considered the least dependable. Unfortunately, due to this they are not recommended by leading uw photography stores. Inon is considered the most dependable / best quality at a reasonable price. I personally have gone through the evolution of the Inon S-2000s, Z-240s, and now Z-330s. If you can find a clean used set they will be an even better price. Just make sure you change the main battery cap o-ring every year or 2 and don’t over tighten the cap. Those are the only 2 considerations I know of to make them last. The Retras are of course the high water mark, but come with the matching price tag. I have not heard any complaints at all regarding their quality. Could be a good investment. Hope this helps.

Loving the episodes @Alex_Mustard ! You and Matthew have a nice chemistry and flow. Great info; look forward to seeing more!

Truly outstanding work @bghazzal ! Fascinating to see the development of the eggs. Keep them coming!

I wasn’t a fan at all when the subscription came to be. With that said, they’ve held up there end of the bargain by making a pretty solid system with frequent, mostly positive regular updates. For both Sony and Fuji, I looked in to Capture One. The normal purchase price (off sale) would equal almost 2 years of payments for LR and PS. I know there are cheaper alternatives, but I’ve been happy with LR and all they have done to support the mostly seamless flow between mobile and desktop editing. This allows me to literally travel with an iPad and SSD drive while still being productive. That’s a big win for me! Mileage may vary for others.

Great images @KevinLee ! I loved my Fuji X-T cameras, especially for travel. I never put them in a housing, but clearly they are solid tools in that world as well. Nicely done!

Terrific images @Pooley ! Thanks for also sharing info on the EMWL. I’m planning to do the Northern Red Sea this November. Question - How is the fish life overall that time of year? I’ve heard the big schools of fish are in the May-Aug time frame.

Great frames @MrChen! Between the recent schools of eagle rays and manatee, it’s tough to decide between macro and wide. Hoping to get there in the AM.

Good question - I found the a1 a tiny bit faster in focus due to the stacked sensor. It was night and day over the RIV. Between the a1 and the RV, is it a deal breaker? Not really. The RV is very close in real usage. If you didn’t do a side-by-side comparison most would never notice. I have a friend that just bought an RV rig and loves it. You should see a big improvement using the Sony 90 with either. It still hunts a bit, but is much better than what you’re probably experiencing now. I found the 28-60 with the WACP-C focused similarly between them, but again most likely faster and more accurate than you’re seeing now. For what it’s worth, Alex Mustard faced the same questions and ended up with the a1. The sole reason was the 1/400 sync option. He is also a Retra user so gets the HSS benefit. (I use Z330s, so no HSS for me) The a1v2 is the unicorn many are chasing. While various rumor sites keep the dream alive, there is no real feel for when we may see an update. Honestly, either would be a great choice, especially with the lens options you’re using.

Bienvenue JB! I absolutely love France. I definitely need to book a trip to dive in the Med. If I do, I’ll be sure to reach out for suggestions.

Hi @Buddha. Yep, I made that same decision last year. First, both are excellent choices! It’s a great problem to have to decide between two such capable bodies. Over previous models, both have: - Significantly better focus - Much better menu system - Substantially better white balance - Dual SD/CF Type A slots I believe both will allow the video button to be reassigned, but don’t hold me to it. In my humble opinion, here are the high points for each: a1: - Higher flash sync speed (1/400 vs 1/250) Good for controlling sun balls and black background in macro Note - need a trigger that will support it - Faster overall focus due to stacked sensor - High res at 50MP / 21 MP in APS-C mode - Great video specs, if you do that later a7rV: - Higher res at 61MP / 26MP in APS-C mode - New AI focus engine “May” pick up eyes slightly better, but not as fast as a1 - Unique flip screen may be better for land-based photos - Good video as a hybrid camera, if you decide to do it - A bit lower cost I actually had both and had a chance to use them in land based photo situations. When I say it was a close choice, it was an extremely close choice as both are truly fantastic and a significant improvement over earlier models. I had an a7rIV previously and struggled with white balance and focus speed, especially with the Sony 90. I ended up keeping the a1 and put it in a Nauticam housing with the WACP-C. In the US I’ve seen the a1 going for as low as $4700 new. For me, the 1/400 sync speed and stacked sensors for fast focus were the deciders. Note - to get the 1/400 speed you need to use a trigger that can support it such as the UW Technics. This will also do HSS with Retra strobes if you eventually go that way. With all that said, I’m sure you will be happy with either for years to come!

Thanks!

Nice images! Yes, mystery solved on C vs 1. I was told: - WWL-C was designed around the 24mm focal length. - WWL-1 was designed around the 28mm length. - Quality between C and 1 is basically the same.

Hey @Gudge - thanks for sharing the image examples! Aside from the minor vignetting, it actually looks pretty good. Agreed that on a black water dive would be a moot issue. If you wouldn’t mind, could you please measure the length of the Metabones/60 assembly and let us know? Only the section that would extend out from the body. That may give a rough idea of the port length needed. @Isaac Szabo - the Sony 90 is definitely faster on the a1 and a7rV than previous models. Huge improvement! With that said, it still hunts more than one would see from other lenses. Nothing we can really do about it, but the terrific image quality makes it worth while.

The WWL-1 does not appear to be compatible with Canon RF lenses according to the Nauticam N120 RF chart. However, the RF 24-50, released Feb 2023, provides an option. It seems to match with both the WACP-C and WWL-C, which is a big win. (Per 6/23 chart link below) I personally haven’t tried it, but I would assume the WWL-C performs similarly to the WWL-1, which I know well. Initially, it was designed to be the WWL for compact lenses, but the physics work for the RF 24-50. As a bonus, it’s smaller than the WWL-1. Keep in mind the more simple, cheaper lenses often work better in the wet optics systems. The WWL and WACP does the heavy lifting of correcting and sharpening specifically for water. Personally, I like the versatility of the WWL / WACP. Aside from true macro, it covers 90%+ of what I want to photo. Even though I may dive with a specific subject in mind, I can photo most anything I may encounter. I’ve even come back with some nice closeup detail images of Flamingo Tongues. With that said, everyone has their own priorities and rig they like. In the end, it is up to you which way, or a different way, you want to go. Hope this helps! https://www.nauticam.com/pages/n120-canon-r-mount-port-chart

Thanks @Davide DB and @fruehaufsteher2 for sharing! Great recap!

Hi @Isaac Szabo Thanks for sharing your experience and example with the EF-S 60. I have the Sony 90 for my a1; other than the slow focus speed, I enjoy it. I’ve been considering a shorter macro lens and have heard the same stories of even slower focus from the Sony 50 macro. The Canon 60/Metabones sounds interesting, especially if the focus is as fast and accurate as it was on my old Canon APS-C rig. Question - what port are you using for this combination?

Congrats - sounds like a great system! Would enjoy hearing your thoughts after the test drive.

Hi @Landvogt1893 Great question. I have owned/used the WWL-1 with my Sony 28-60 for several years. I suspect the WWL-C would have a relatively similar image quality. I too find it to be a terrific system; far batter than a traditional dome. About a year ago I picked up a WACP-C. After about 50 dives with it I feel the image quality between the two is extremely close. The WACP-C does edge it out by a hair if you compare the exact same image side by side, but you have to look closely. With that said, there are some differences that may or may not be relevant. The WACP-C allows about a stop of extra sharpness. I find the WWL is sharp edge to edge at f/11, with f/8 being mostly acceptable sharpness on the edges. The WACP-C is edge to edge sharp at f/9 (or f/8), with f/5.6 being possible. (Your mileage may vary based on the edge detail and personal expectations). The WWL requires it to be “burped” after entry to ensure no water bubbles form between the port and WWL that can disrupt focus. The WACP does not as it is a port. I call it a “jump and go” system, which especially useful if you need to make a quick entry and do not want to run the risk of missing the needed burp. The WWL is a little lighter and perhaps easier for travel due to being 2 pieces. The WACP is slightly heavier and a tad more negative requiring just a little more buoyancy. And then there’s the cost difference. This may or may not be a consideration. For me, I live in South Florida where I do mostly local diving. As such I use the WACP-C most often because travel size and weight are not a concern. If I were traveling more I would most likely stay with the WWL as the quality is so close, and I had already invested in it. I hope this gives you some useful info to consider. I know there are others who have shared similar experiences. It all comes down to your personal priorities. Best of luck in your decision!

A rare FCP unicorn spotting in the wild! Yes, buy it! 🤔😂

Do it…do it…spend the money! (I’ve been told I’m a bad influence on others’ bank accounts) As a fellow hive member, I have personally lived everything you are saying. I too am obsessed with size and weight. Frankly, I’m not interested in having the biggest rig on the boat. Quite the opposite, in fact! With that said, I wound up with a Sony a7rIV in 2020, then briefly an a7rV, and now a1 with all the pretty attachments. Something clearly went very, very wrong with the plan. 😂 A couple thoughts…. In the real world, I am a Canon photog. I have an R5 and love it! I’ve also used the Canon R7. It’s a terrific little camera. So why did I end up with the Sony? Three reasons - 1) the Sony body is smaller than the Canon R5, which means the housing is physically smaller, 2) the Nauticam water contact lenses did not have a good Canon lens solution at the time, and 3) I wanted a FF. Through my experience, if you are going to a new Sony FF, the a7rV is fantastic! The only reason I went to the a1 was I got a good deal on it and I like the 1/400 flash sync option. The a7rV and a1 have substantially better focus, menus, and WB abilities than previous models. If you already have a WACP-C, I’d vote to keep it. I started with the WWL-1B in 2020 and then last year got a WACP-C. The WWL is easier to pack as it is the port and separate optic. The image quality is pretty close to the same. The downside is the requirement to “burp” the lens to eliminate any water bubbles between the port and WWL from your entry can be a pain. For that reason I’m most likely keeping my WACP-C. Aside from the occasional desire to photo a large wreck up close, I basically leave the WACP-C as my go-to solution. It is perfect for CFWA to fish portraits. I am also shocked at how close it can focus. I love the versatility! I also considered the a6600 (now a6700) before I bought the a7rIV for size, price, and keeping the Tokina 10-17 fisheye. It is a fantastic lens for APS-C systems! Super small, affordable, and sharp for that type of a system. This would also be a good go-to for the a6700. The a7Cii looks very interesting, but as it’s a FF camera there is not a lot of size reduction due to the size of the FF lenses and ports. In this case, I’d stick with the a7rV idea. After all that rambling, the a7rV with the WACP-C would be a great FF rig. If you are considering a newer APS-C rig, I have a buddy who may be interested in selling his a6600 system. Drop me a DM if you are interested. BTW - I always take my own “bucket” on the boat to separate mine from the others. When I travel, this has been a good solution as it is foldable and can double as a rinse bin afterwards. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09F733B2M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It’ll be interesting to see which way you end up….

Sounds great - best of luck with your new setup! You will be able to use it for many years, even if you upgrade your Sony body in the future. As a thought, since you already have the WWL, you may not really have a need for the TC on the 8-15. I’ve seen good success using the WWL (or WAPC-C, basically the same thing) for photos such as dolphins, sharks, etc. The WWL will most likely give you sharper images at wider apertures if you do not need the full 180 degrees of the Canon. Big animals like whales could benefit from the fisheye, but would most likely not need the TC. The water contact lenses such as the WWL have been a real game changer! Since I started using it, it’s on my rig over 90% of the time unless I’m doing something really big like close range on a wreck. Again, it all depends on your personal needs and taste. Enjoy!

In my personal experience and usage, my Sigma MC-11 does not lock up with my Canon 8-15, even in burst mode or quick repetitive shutter action. It similarly works with the TC and has been widely used by people I know. Others choose the Metabones option, which is also fine. Enjoy!

Time to select the right hammer? 🤔 Seriously, sorry to hear. Very frustrating!

Hi @JB_Cazajous I use a Sony FF with a WWL and had the same question. (I was also very excited about the FCP). As you read below please keep in mind I too needed to stay within a reasonable price for all, but wanted to get the best possible quality for what I could afford as I plan to keep it for quite some time. I have found the Canon 8-15 with the Sigma MC-11 adapter to be an exceptional option. The Canon “L” glass is a bit pricy, but legendary for its quality and sharpness. There are plenty of good quality 8-15s available on the used market at an acceptable price. I also tried the Metabones V adapter, but found the MC-11 was not only cheaper, but easier to use and works very well with a super fast / accurate focus in a slightly smaller package. This also allows the circular 8mm fisheye image, if you get the zoom gear. When used sparingly it adds a cool effect to your dive photo options. You can also add a 1.4x teleconverter to this lens for a little extra reach with the wide view. As far as domes, I chose the Nauticam 140mm. It is small, easy to maneuver uw, and sharp. Be sure to get the model with the removable shade if you want to be able to do the circular images. With this lens/port solution I can basically focus right on a starfish arm and have an amazing CFWA image. Zen also makes a 100mm dome designed for the Canon 8-15. I used a similar one with my APS-C system, but per Alex Mustard he found the 140 dome was the smallest size with acceptable corners for a FF system. A larger dome such as 170, 180, or 230 will allow the option of split images, but there is the size and cost to consider. I personally was more interested in smaller dive and transport size than doing the occasional split, but others have different priorities. With that said, technically you can do a split with the 140 dome, but it will be challenging. You will need to be in still water for the best chance. Remember any dome option will begin with the N100-N120 port adapter. From there you can use any N120 dome or port on your Sony system once you have the appropriate extension. For the Canon solution I outlined above you will need: - Nauticam N100-N120 adapter - 30mm extension (120) - 140 Dome (N120) - If you add a 1.4x teleconverter, add a 20mm extension I also agree the Nikon 13mm conversion is now a very solid option, and is even smaller. This was not openly available when I bought my setup. You will find many options by those claiming to have the “best solution.” The best solution for you is what fits your personal needs. Enjoy!

Here you are @brightnight…. Use smartphone as monitor - Video Gear and Technique - Wetpixel Underwater Photography Forums 2.pdf