ChipBPhoto

I’ll add in my experience with the WWL vs WACP-C. Short answer, image quality is really the same. The WACP-C is a dry port which eliminates the need to ‘burp’ the lens. This can be critical when doing a quick entries with subjects such as whales or dolphins that require immediate photo engagement. I personally would not use the WWL in this situation. And yes, a dome with a 180 degree FoV fisheye will allow, and require, a closer interaction with a large subject. The 130 degree FoV with the WACP is still pretty impressive. The new FCP, despite its hefty price, would be an ideal tool as it allows zooming from 175 degrees to ~60 degrees and is a dry port. Another option is the Laowa 10mm 2.8 lens. It will work in a 140 or 230 dome and has a 130 FoV. This would give you the f/2.8 and other wide aperture options, if desired. Fortunately quality noise reduction software adds an additional tool to compensate for higher ISOs. Have an amazing time, and share some images!

I agree. While relatively limited, I foresee a greater demand for delivered high quality video. With that said, the cost of entry for this level of video production is higher and requires a greater skill set. And no, that is not at all diminishing the skill, talent, and vision required to produce high quality still images. There is simply ‘more’ of everything required for quality video production.

Interesting that the new a1 will use the a9III body. I do like the a7rV flippy screen design will be included for landscape usage. The new 28-70 looks very interesting for portrait work, especially the lighter weight. Will either of these specifically help in uw work? Possibly the new focus capabilities on the a1 II could be a win, but at a high cost. This new body + a Nauticam housing comes in at around $12,500, plus tax.

Passing on something I learned. If you do go to a Z8, or other high res camera, the focus point becomes extremely critical. Hi res files show incredible detail, which is awesome! They also show if the focus is not exactly right. Low res sensors (~24MP +/- or less) are much more forgiving. It took me a couple of dives to really master this. Just something to file away if you do move in that direction. 😃

BIG PRICE DROP!!!! List of items: Price New Selling Price Sony a6600 Body.....................................$999.................$599 Sony 16-50 f/3.5-5.6 PZ Lens..................$299.................$100 Nauticam NA-a6600 Housing................$2513................$1400 Nauticam Vacuum....................................$220.................$100 Nauticam Zoom Gear NA-36172..............$242.................$150 Nauticam N85 Port 45 w/ Knob...............$619.................$400 Nauticam Manual Flash Trigger...............$308................$200 Totals: $5200 $2949 NEW LOWER Package Price for all Above: $2,045!!! Other items: Price New Selling Price Nauticam CMC-2....................................$387...............$295 Nauticam Bayonet Mount Adapter...........$62................$40 Payment via PayPal F&F; please add 3% for PayPal Goods & Services. USPS Priority shipping to US lower 48 states included. Prefer US sales only to members with activity in community. Please DM me with any questions.

I’m not a Nikon photog, but I agree to stay with what you all ready have. Sony does not seem to be a logic choice unless you simply want to move to Sony. Here are options I would offer: - House your Z6ii and get the new appropriate lenses/ports (least expensive) - The Z8 is pretty amazing! Sell your Z6 and go all-in with the Z8. A refurb could be a good option. Z8 gives the a7RV stiff competition. - Unless you absolutely want 180 fisheye, either WWL or WACP-C is terrific and quite versatile. WWL-1B or WWL-C are lower cost, whereas WACP-C is a dry lens. All are the same IQ. Best of luck! Let us know what you get. chip

Directly from Edward… “- Image quality is far better than shooting through a flat port. - Literally no noticeable focus hunting as the MFO converts the focus range of the camera lens. - (for Nikon Z105mm macro) focus range converted to 125mm-1100mm. - Slightly increases magnification at MFD (Nikon Z105mm macro ~1.2X; Canon RF100mm macro ~1.6X).” A solid overview of what to expect.

I'll 2nd the Zeiss Touit 50. I use it with my a1. I think it is fantastic for a medium range and blackwater. I use it in FF mode and simply crop the vignette in post rather than using in APS-C mode.

Thank you so much @Edward Lai for the information, and bringing this new product to life. And thank you @Alex_Mustard for your vision. It does in fact appear to be a game changing approach with terrific results! As someone who has taken a significant interest in macro photography, I see quite a number of scenarios where this will prove to be a tool leading to greater success. I can’t wait to add it to my tool kit.

100% agreed!!

Agreed! In a FB comment I found by Alex Tattersall, it appears we may have it right. He’s claiming a focus range on a Sony 90 to be about 2cm - 1m, with improved sharpness. If correct, that would fantastic! That said, I’m waiting for the official confirmation and hands on testing.

I've done some checking around today and details remain thin at the moment. The only thing confirmed is it is a stand alone lens, not used in conjunction with the SMC/CMC, which is what I figured. If it can reduce the MFD for a normal macro lens (i.e. Sony 90 w/ 28cm MFD) and still have a substantially longer focus range than an SMC/CMC, that would be quite useful. There have been plenty of times I wanted to get closer to the subject, but the MFD would not allow the lens to focus, while at the same time not wanting the extra magnification and super shallow DoF of the SMC/CMC. This would also match up with the name "Mid-Range Focus Optimizer" in macro terms. Again, this is just me interpreting the verbiage, but I have no idea if this is actually what it does. Guess we'll know more in the next 30-60 days....

Thanks for sharing @Davide DB ! I've heard the name, but details have been unknown. This could be interesting.

Hi @Onokai, I’m sorry to hear of your issue. If you don’t mind, what happened to cause the failure? I’ve not heard of this happening. I do know a few people using the Inon float arms, although most I see are either the Nauticam or frame arms (UL or similar) with Stix floats. chip

I’d agree with the solid comments already shared. I actually started in uw video in the early 90s using an SVHS-C camera, bulky hot lights, and editing on a small tape-to-tape system. (Yes, I’m old) It was literally 1 hour of editing for each minute of basic usable footage. There was no way to easily share video other than parking someone in front of a TV to watch it. After a few years, I was burnt out and switched to stills. Today I can connect my SD card to my iPhone or iPad and I have professionally edited images via LR mobile that I can share while still on the water. Modern video has become almost that easy. I believe the GoPro really changed the possibilities for anyone to make quality video. Using the GoPro phone based editing software and cloud distribution, editing and sharing video has become basically as easy as stills. And yes, I agree the younger crowd grew up with this on land, and has led the way taking it in the water. As far as high end video, our mirrorless cameras can definitely produce high quality results. And yes, it is far easier to edit via iMovie on the more basic end, up to pro level Final Cut and Premier Pro. With few exceptions, I still feel most (not all) mirrorless cameras are more photo centric. Correct lighting and white balance for smooth editing is also more challenging. There are additional key skills required to make quality video such as smooth pans, following a subject in a logical manner, and telling a story. In short, being the director, videographer, and editor by oneself. I contend this is far more challenging than lining up a still image with correct lighting. While we clearly live in a video world, stills remain the choice for most. Is this changing? Absolutely! Every young diver has a GoPro, housed iPhone, or similar when they jump in. The internal algorithms in these devices are making pretty good video straight from the camera. Video is more and more the future, but quality video, like stills, will remain a creative art form.

As far as quality of light and distance, I never really noticed anything remarkably different between them. The Retras are fantastic for wide, even coverage. A snoot in general lights a much smaller area. With that said, the LSD does have a wider diameter tube than the BS due to its design. This, in conjunction with the various inserts to reduce the size or change the light shape seems to potentially offer a few more options. It’s really splitting hairs at that point. To me, it really comes down to do you want to carry just 1 set of strobes/batteries? If so, the LSD is the way to go. This should also have less of a worry about battery life during a long dive. If you want smaller, more dedicated functionality, the BS system is solid. Not to sound flippant, but if you already have the Retras, go ahead and order an LSD. It’s not a huge investment, relatively speaking. If you end up not liking it, you should have no issue reselling it on this board.

Hi @Whiskeyjack, Yes, I have used both the Backscatter and Retra LSD snoots. In my opinion, both are excellent! There is, of course, the obvious size difference between them. Pros I found for Retra LSD: - Larger size allows it to easily be moved. By keeping my clamps relatively loose, I can maneuver the LSD by grabbing the snoot neck. - Using the LSD allows only the normal strobes to be packed. This reduces batteries and accessories needed. - I found the aiming light to be very good, even in shallow, bright water. This is critical for effective snoot use. - Larger battery capacity eliminates chance of running out of power during a long, multi-hour shallow dive. Pros I found for BS MF Snoot: - Much smaller size and very easy to position. I often aim the snoot by grabbing the MF body vs the snoot itself. - Smaller size in water feels more liberating. It is also easier to position in some tighter situations. - Smaller snoot size allows me to easily remove it and clip it on my rig or BC without fear of loosing it. - Having at least 1 MF strobe on a trip also doubles as a small backup should a main strobe fail. - Aiming light is also very good in bright water. Note - I have had the battery run down in a long, multi-hour shallow dive. I mitigate this by turning the aiming light off, and even turning the strobe off while searching for subjects. The price for both is relatively similar, about $200 difference. Again, I find both to be excellent options. It really comes down to which features and scenarios best fit your personal priorities. Hope this helps! chip

Great question. The new one is positioned as an upgraded version of the SMC-1. I am told the focus is more even across the plain, lighter, and a little easier overall to use. Alex M has been using one for several months and likes it. A bit of an impulse buy being sight unseen, but from other insiders it sounds like a nice update. Is it a must-buy if the SMC-1 is already in the kit? Probably not, but I am doing a great deal more macro and will take the upgrades. I’ll let you know in a few weeks once it arrives.

Based on the N85 chart, the SMC is only recommended for the Oly 90. The CMCs are more widely used for m43.

Already ordered mine!

I purchased a Nauticam 20 extension ring from @Abi_Camera. Neil is top notch, and a person of his word! He was very friendly in all communication, confirmed receipt of payment, shipped quickly, and provided the tracking number. The ring arrived in perfect condition. 5 Stars - Highly recommend!

BIG PRICE DROP!!!! List of items: Price New Selling Price Sony a6600 Body.....................................$999.................$599 Sony 16-50 f/3.5-5.6 PZ Lens..................$299.................$100 Nauticam NA-a6600 Housing................$2513................$1400 Nauticam Vacuum....................................$220.................$100 Nauticam Zoom Gear NA-36172..............$242.................$150 Nauticam N85 Port 45 w/ Knob...............$619.................$400 Nauticam Manual Flash Trigger...............$308................$200 Totals: $5200 $2949 NEW LOWER Package Price for all Above: $2,095!!! Other items: Price New Selling Price Nauticam CMC-2....................................$387...............$295 Nauticam Bayonet Mount Adapter...........$62................$40 Payment via PayPal F&F; please add 3% for PayPal Goods & Services. USPS Priority shipping to US lower 48 states included. Prefer US sales only to members with activity in community. Please DM me with any questions. Thanks for looking! Chip

No hurricane damage in SE Florida. We did have a number of powerful tornadoes, but none that impacted the Lauderdale area.

Nice work, @atus !

Hi @Apneagraph, That’s a good question. The S220 has proven to be a quite dependable upgrade from the previous S2000. The beam is noticeably wider which I see as a big plus. I see two ways to look at it…. - Adding a Z-330 will provide a bit wider light pattern and a bit more power. (More so the wider pattern) This could be interesting if you use the 2 strobes as a key light and fill light strategy. This yields a more artistic appearance. - Adding a 2nd S220 would still allow the key light/fill light strategy, but would also provide a more even, matched lighting for wider scenes. The smaller size is an attractive plus. Saving a few dollars for a new product vs. pre-owned is nice as well. There will be a variety of opinions shared, but I personally prefer having the option of an even light pattern. As such, I personally would purchase a 2nd S220. Good luck! Let us know what you decide. chip