ChipBPhoto

All good info. I have found it’s really a balance between the public demand for the item being sold and how motivated one is for a quick sale. I tend to price more aggressively for a quicker sale based on similar items. This frees up cash for the next needed item.

It’s definitely personal taste, but Alex Mustard just used them in the Red Sea. He liked the flat 4500 degree (warm) filters best for blue water. He felt the similar dome filters cut too much light and that the flat filters had a nice coverage. Again, it’s all personal taste.

As far as I know, it works fine as it’s just a EF pass through. The 8-15 is an EF lens, so the Kenko attaches to it first. The RF-EF adapter would then attach to the Kenko TC, and then to the RF body. You would then need to get the appropriate extension(s) and zoom gear.

Unfortunately, the Canon TCs are only designed to work with certain long lenses. They will not attach to the 8-15. The Kenko does not have this limitation.

Nice info - thanks for sharing @dhaas ! In the real world, I wonder how this would perform compared to the R7? I realize the R7 is a higher MP at 32 v 24, and the R7 has a dedicated focus joystick. Other features like IBIS, weather sealing, etc. are not as important uw. They both use the same lenses which would seem to lean toward similar image quality, all be it with a smaller resolution. This body and lens is roughly 1/3 the cost of the R7. ($749 v $1999). That puts it inline with a quality Canon compact camera, but with a true APS-C sensor. Any thoughts?

Good question. Need to first confirm if the RF-EF adaptor would mount on the RF TCs. Canon designed them so that a very limited lens selection can accept them.

Hi Jim, I have the 140 setup now. It’s good, but I want to go smaller. I’m potentially looking to sell the 140.

Hi all, I am looking for a clean Zen 100 dome for the Canon 8-15 lens, Nauticam mount. Glass must be perfect. Located in South Florida. Prefer US seller. Thanks for looking! chip

Nicely done Walt! Glad to hear you and Issac were able to get a dependable solution. And just in time for Goliath season!

As it was explained to me by those in the know, the simpler the lens design, the better the water specific correction ability. (Ie think contact lenses specifically for water correction). That is why we normally see mid-grade lenses recommended with WACP/WWL solutions. (Sony 28-60, etc.). Not bad lenses, but simple “kit” lenses. Better quality G / GM / L lenses perform better in standard domes due to no water correction built into the dome glass. The dome solution relies much more heavily on the lens optics quality than the water contact options. From what I’ve seen and used the 28-60 seems to be the best option with the WACP-C. I personally don’t believe you will see any benefit uw adapting the 24-50 G lens for use with the WACP-C.

If you enjoy macro, I’ve been super happy with it! The focus light of the MF-2 seems to be bright enough to use in most light conditions and is fairly accurate. I attached a small clip on the snoot so I can clip it on my BC when I want to use the MF-2 as a strobe for a wider scene. I’m just using 1 MF-2 when I dive macro and like the dramatic results I can achieve.

Good explanation! Realistically, about 1/800 - 1/1000 or so for the HS-2, but you most likely wont need that fast. The biggest benefit is to help tame a sun ball or use a wider aperture beyond the 1/160-250 normal limit. 1/640 or 1/800, or less, can normally do that very well.

For float arms I use a mix of Nauticam carbon arms at the base and then Stix for the upper arm. This allows me to quickly adjust buoyancy as needed depending on the port, strobes, etc. I am using that day. I also find the longer Nauticam clamps to be perfect for the middle joint. The longer distance allows the top arm to fold flat against the bottom arm for carrying / handing up to the boat. I resisted for a while, but am happy I did that upgrade. As far as clamps in general, Nauticam now has finer threads. I have found this provides a tighter lock without having to over tighten as well as being able to be slightly loosen for movement without being sloppy. If you haven’t already, also get the Nauticam lanyard. Again, I resisted and finally broke down and got it. Super easy and dependable solution! And it’s a buy-it-once thing. (Well, unless you drop it over the deep blue like I did.)

1,000% agree! It hurts (financially) to get into UW photography, but once you bite the bullet on certain items, you have them forever. I tend to buy brand names such as Nauticam, ULCS, etc. Yes, they’re making a nice profit margin to cover their R&D costs, but as a general rule they wouldn’t put their name on junk. My opinion is you’re rolling the dice with off-brands. May work; may not work. I’d rather not find out on a trip.

Oooooooo, that’s purdy!! Christmas came early this year, @Johno1530 ! Your wife’s comment was the best! You def won the prize there. A tip that has served me well is to soak your rig, articulate the buttons/levers, and then dry it. Don’t just let it drip-dry or you will find spots build up on the housing. I picked up an inexpensive electric keyboard blower that I use after then soak to blow water out from underneath the buttons, etc. It’s amazing how much stays there which can reduce and eventually jam up the movement. I know, it sounds like serious OCD, but I like to take care of my toys. It actually takes longer to explain it than do it. Congratulations and enjoy the new adventure!

Most excellent and on-point comments by you both @dhaas and @Davide DB ! I've been giving PADI my annual instructor dues for over 30 years, and have had either a uw video or still camera in my hands the entire time. While I didn't jump at every new iteration, I certainly have done my part to contribute to camera, housing, and bits and bobs manufactures. I remember being shocked at the condescending comments in a local camera shop by the owner. He grew up learning to process on film, and he had a fair amount of frustration to share about the rise of these new DSLRs. He ranted about the "art" being taken out of photography by people using computers to both take the images and then process them. "Anyone can now take pictures, but it's not real" he exclaimed! (Quite odd for a shop owner to tell a potential customer looking to buy a new DSLR 😆) Year later, I can kind of understand perhaps a bit of what he was feeling. But then again, "art" is what you make with the tools at your disposal. AI and technology in general has dramatically put a hurt on the commercial photo industry. Honestly, most images needed for online sales can easily be made on a iPhone and some minor lighting, and that may not even be needed. With that said, I still find joy in the hunt. The hunt to make the best image I can from the same scene 20 others on the same dive boat may see. I still thrive on creating a unique view that others may pass right over. What we hold in our hands is nothing more than a tool. What we do with it, and how we finish it, is the creative part that not everyone or every technology can replicate. Would I be disappointed to dramatically reduce the size and weight of my 26 lbs rig, and get similar results? Absolutely not! Will I still be driven by the hunt, the creative processing, and the joy to share the results with others? I believe all of us in this community will respond with a resounding "yes", regardless of the tools we may use. That is the "art" we create. ...and yes, music sounds way better on vinyl with proper speakers! I am saddened by those that have never experienced it. 😎

Hey John - I’d say that’s a good plan. While you won’t be able to get perhaps every ultra-wide image, I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised with its versatility. Unfortunately, there’s no solution that is the “everything” lens. I’ve found the WACP-C to be reasonably close for 90% of what I do. Enjoy! chip

I agree with what Chris shared. I use the 140 dome with the Canon 8-15. I’m very happy with the performance underwater. It is also quite easy for travel. I rarely do splits, but have been successful in calm water. I’d say invest in what you want to do as the primary goal, and then supplement as needed as you go.

So happy it was useful!

Hi Wolfgang, I never did find the actual reason. What I do now is pay special attention to the ribbon cable so I do not bend it sharply in anyway when connecting it to the top of the hotshot. Since I’ve been doing that, I’ve not had any issues. I have no idea if that solved the problem or is just a coincidence, but so far all is good.

Truly my pleasure! I’m sure you’ll bring back some great images to share!

Hi John, Congratulations! You are going to love the Nauticam housing. They have always done a great job of putting the buttons in the right place. Ie Playback is always with the left thumb and the shutter is always the right finger, regardless of the specific housing model. If you are a bit OCD about soaking it after each dive, articulating the buttons/levers in the soaking water, and cleaning the o-rings, it will last you for many, many years. Good call on the WACP-C. I find it to be a good all around blend for 90% of what I like to photo. I did a couple wrecks yesterday in 10-15m visibility. I was able to get both the wide as well as some very tight details. In full disclosure, there were a couple times I would have liked to have been wider, but I would have had to sacrifice the zoom I enjoyed. I have attached the Nauticam port chart for the WACP-C to review. Unfortunately, the 8-15 only works in a dome. But there’s an upside. Because of the special nature of the fisheye lens, Zen makes a 100mm dome designed specifically for the Canon 8-15. To use this, you will need either: - N100-N120 adapter II w zoom knob, the Zen 100 dome, zoom gear, EF-Sony adapter, lens OR - N100-120 adapter II w knob, 140mm dome, N120 30 extension, gear, EF-Sony adapter, lens. Note - you must get the 140 dome that has the removable shade if you want to do circular fisheye. The Zen 100 dome has a removable shade built-in. The 1st option is the smallest and a little less expensive. This should make for an easy travel set should you want the fisheye and WACP-C. The 2nd would give you slightly sharper corners, but be bigger and more costly. Either set would give you 15mm 180 fisheye and 8mm circular fisheye, but no usable zoom in between. If you are not interested in doing the circular fisheye, you can skip the zoom gear. You can add a 1.4x teleconverter to each with the appropriate zoom gear and additional extension, if you want. One other important thing I learned when I first moved to the 61mp sensor…focus is critical! The sharpness you will see if incredible, if it’s in focus. Similarly, if focus is not spot on, it will be equally noticeable. APS-C sensors are far move forgiving in this area. But when you get it right, the detail is amazing! Also, regardless of what you may hear, the WACP-C really needs to be at f/11 or f/13 if you want a deep DoF. You do have the ability to get close focus subjects sharp and shallow DoF for background separation with this FF sensor. The port is very good at allowing super close focus. Having that zoom ability will allow you to tighten up in an otherwise skittish subject. Higher resolution will give you a bit of cropping room as well. Below are 2 videos Alex Mustard did showing how he customizes his menus. The a1 and a7rV have the same menu settings. A bit more than you asked, but hopefully helpful. Again, congrats on the new kit! Let us know what you think. chip WACP-C Port Chart.pdf

Sounds good. Keep it mind it is a prime lens, so no zoom.

My pleasure! I know going through all the options can be a bit overwhelming. I’ve heard amazing stories from Socorro. It’s the place for big critters for sure! I did the Bimini hammerheads this year. I used the WACP-C and had fantastic results with the zoom range. I was able to get the distant scene at the feeding box as well as zoom out wide for the close fly overs. Yes, the water contact options replace the tradition dome. FYI - The WWL/WACP-C are the same quality and specs. The WACP-C is a dry port and the WWL-1B is a wet mount that has a bayonet mount to attach at the end of the 45 port. You need to “burp” the WWL once in the water to make sure there is no air trapped between them. It is, however, a bit smaller and slightly cheaper than the WACP-C. WWL-1B - 28-60, zoom gear, Port 45, bayonet mount, and WWL-1B. WACP-C - 28-60, zoom gear, N100 30mm extension, WACP-C (Obviously double check me with your dealer) Many people feel the water contact options do improve image quality at the same or slightly more open aperture as a dome port. Splits, however, are only possible with a dome.

I’ve been a long time Canon user and now Sony. In overall usability, the 2 big things I seen are: - Canon colors are legendary. Yes, you can alter in post, but I like them as a staring point. - Sony has better tracking. Canon is not bad, Sony is just stronger. APS-C is a terrific format, especially for size. Either would be relatively the same, float arms perhaps making a difference. Yes, Tokina 10-17 works with the a6700. I too use a Sigma MC-11 as the adapter. The N85-N120 covers the adapter depth. Add the Zen N120 100mm mini dome for Tokina, a zoom gear, and you are set. The same N85-N120 and Sigma will work with the Sigma or Canon EF 100. As far as I know, both are about the same in overall user experiences, aside from the comparison I shared above. Also keep in mind the button configuration in a housing will be completely different that the body alone for land photos. Either will require the same learning curve of new button placement in the housing. With that said, Nauticam has done a fantastic job of making logical sense of how their buttons are positioned. Between the 2, it’s mostly personal preference. Good luck and let us know what you do! chip