waso

May I ask how strong the lock is? The Saga adapter also has a lock, but it's too weak to hold, for example, the SMC1/SMC2 in a vertical position underwater.

I can rule out a hard impact, as I noticed this immediately after purchase, even before the first dive. To be honest, I can't imagine how I could check this with a bubble level. I'll probably measure the dimensions of the lens hood, but I don't expect to find anything conclusive. However, if all the other owners here in the forum report that they haven't been able to resolve the issue, I'll contact the dealer. The camera has IBIS, but I turned it off because it behaves strangely in combination with the Fisheye and Commlite adapter. So that can't be the cause.

Thanks for your reply! Does the Nauticam triple flip have dedicated, fixed(!) 'detents' for each flip that hold the flips in position? The Saga has detents, but they are far too soft and therefore can no longer hold the weight beyond a certain tilt.

I'm using the Nauticam 140mm FE dome with the Canon FE 8-15/4 in combination with the two RF extenders and I've noticed that when zooming out, the lower right corner of the dome's lens hood is always the first part of the image to appear. There's an inaccuracy and I don't know the cause. It could be due to the lens hood's manufacturing, or perhaps the camera's position in the housing isn't perfectly precise—or a combination of both. Has anyone else noticed this? It's not a major issue, but it does reduce the FOV somewhat.

Hello, I own a Saga M67 triple flip adapter, which is very good in principle. Unfortunately, it has a design flaw: at a vertical tilt of approximately 45°, it can't support the weight of heavier close-up lenses, causing them to flip forward. This can have serious consequences, as the lenses can get scratched because they collide with each other. Besides, there are rare situations where you actually want to shoot vertically. Does anyone know of another manufacturer of triple flip adapters that doesn't have this problem?

I used the Z-220 a long time ago (from 2008 to around 2010) and back then it was a good strobe for the price. However, what drove me to sell it after about three years was the fact that it was virtually impossible to snoot with the strobe because the focus light and flash tube weren't on the same optical axis. For me(!) that would always be one of the main reasons for buying a strobe – along with, of course, a few other features.

I don't know if anyone has to be 'serious', but back-button focus has made photography easier for me for many years, both above and below water.

Also without(!) the removable, rotating aperture dial?

Hi Dave, thank you so much! Does the protective bumper affect the light beam in any way?

I've only recently acquired the MFO-3 and haven't had a chance to try it out yet, but the unprotected front lens is a concern for me too. If I remember correctly, @Dave_Hicks had a 3D-printed front lens protection for the predecessor, but I haven't seen anywhere whether it also fits the version 3. If anyone sees an effective front lens protection online, please post it here!

TTL works amost perfect on my Canon R5 and HF-1 with e-TURTLE 3 SMART TTL trigger for Canon MILC systems.

Were you able to take a picture of it?

Above and under water.

That would of course be another option, but it would take me a little more time to switch quickly. I'll probably start by training my little finger.😁

And how do you handle that in 'non-exclusive' situations? 😁 Have you ever assigned Eye AF to a specific button? It would be possible to assign it to the AF-On lever, but then you lose the option for regular servo AF, which isn't really an option for me. It's a shame, Canon doesn't allow more customizable button assignments on the R5 – it's improved on the R5 Mark II, though still not perfect. And yes, I've been using backbutton focus for about 15 years now.

No, I haven't read the Divemaster yet. Then I'd be interested to know if you use the eye AF and how you've assigned the buttons/levers on the Nauticam housing to use it effectively.

Because with a little modification, the Commlite allows the combination of the EF 8-15/4 with the RF extenders.

Ahhh, didn't know... 😁

Thanks! As I already wrote above, I had forgotten several times that I don't get the one-stop smaller aperture displayed and therefore accidentally stopped down by one stop too much.

Thanks Evan!

I just want to give a short feedback, although I believe I am the only one here in the forum with the Canon R5/Nauticam combination... I've now bought pretty much all the essential equipment I'll need in the near future. A super dome for split shots will certainly follow at some point, but it's not needed right now. At the beginning of June '26, I was able to gain some initial experience, but only so far with the following setup: Canon R5 in a Nauticam housing with Nauticam 140mm fisheye dome Canon EF 8-15/4 Fisheye with Canon RF 1.4 extender adapted with a Commlite EF/RF adapter and Saga zoom ring 2x HF-1 Backscatter strobes incl. 4500K flat diffusors, most of the time with homemade snoot I will soon be testing the Canon RF 100/2.8 macro lens (possibly in combination with the Nauticam SMC-1) with the OS-3 Backscatter snoot and/or homemade snoots. I might also test the Canon RF 2.0 extender on the Canon 8-15/4. Due to poor visibility and wide angle, it didn't make sense to test the TTL capabilities of the e-TURTLE 3 SMART TTL converter. This test will be carried out in July and I will report on it here. My experience was as follows: The Nauticam housing isn't really well-suited for Eye-AF (due to the lack of a lever – there is only a button – for the *-button). Virtually all Canon photographers assign Eye-AF and Spot-AF to the AF-On and *-button for quick switching between the two AF functions. I reluctantly assigned the function to the depth-of-field preview button (for which Nauticam provides a lever down on the right!) and can therefore operate it with my right little finger. However, pulling this lever and simultaneously releasing the shutter while wearing thick gloves isn't exactly easy. Eye-AF is mostly useless underwater, but it sometimes helps, especially with cuttlefish. The lens hood of the 140mm fisheye dome does not appear to be manufactured 100% symmetrically (or the camera is not optimally positioned in the housing), at least when zooming out I always see the lower right part of the lens hood first - minimal, but it is annoying and 'costs' some focal length. What experiences have other users of this dome in combination with zoom lenses? But perhaps I should ask this question in a separate thread. Following the instructions of @Dave_Hicks (many thanks for that!), I had an extension printed for the HF-1's power intensity knob, which was incredibly helpful. Nevertheless, I'd also like to have one for the mode dial, as switching between M and SC mode is very difficult with thick gloves. Why can't manufacturers put themselves in the shoes of cold-water underwater photographers??? As I've mentioned in another posting, the combination of the 8-15/4 lens and the Canon RF 1.4 extender is optically superior (especially in the corners) to the combination with the older Kenko 1.4 extender. The disadvantage with the Commlite adapter is that the EXIF data isn't displayed correctly, as the extender itself isn't apparently recognized. This isn't a major issue, but I had to be careful not to stop down too much out of habit, because I always had to add an extra stop of exposure - unfortunately, it has happened a few times anyway - I have to slowly get used to it. All in all, apart from the minor flaws I have described, the equipment functioned reliably. Underwater conditions in the Dutch North Sea were far from optimal due to very poor visibility (between 1-3m), and therefore I mostly shot with very low strobe power (mostly 1/16), usually with a snoot and higher ISO. Because of the annual cuttlefish mating, I always try to spend a few days diving there around this time of the year. Of course, in some of the images I had to extensively remove backscatter during post processing. 😉 Btw: with these images, it obviously makes no sense to show crops from the corners. I hope to be able to deliver that later this year. All images are uncropped. The following four pictures were taken on the first day, when visibility was still at its best, up to 3 meters. Therefore, all pictures were taken with two HF-1 strobes (left/right) and slightly more strobe power (if I remember correctly, up to a maximum of 1/4.). Moon Jellyfish F25 (forgot to open up the aperture 🤐) | 1/250sec. | ISO 400 | @17mm: Moon Jellyfish F22 | 1/250 sec. | ISO 400 | @ 20mm: Common Cuttlefish (very small, just about 20cm long) F18 | 1/25 sec. | ISO 640 | @ 21mm: Common Cuttlefish (very small, all of them just about 20cm long) F20 | 1/25 sec. | ISO 640 | @21mm: The next two pictures are from day 2. Visibility was significantly worse than on the first day (especially noticeable in the second picture) and therefore only possible with a snoot. Common Cuttlefish couple (snooted) F22 | 1/250sec. | ISO 400 | @21mm: Common Cuttlefish couple (snooted) F14 | 1/25 sec. | ISO 800 | @ 21mm: On day 3, visibility was initially quite good (1st picture), but was becoming significantly worse later. Common Shore Crab & Common Spider Crab F20 | 1/40 sec. | ISO 1000 | @21mm 2x HF-1 strobes (left/right): Common Cuttlefish lays eggs (snooted) F16 | 1/40 sec. | ISO 1000 | @21mm: Common Cuttlefish couple (snooted) F16 | 1/40 sec. | ISO 1000 | @21mm: Common Cuttlefish couple (snooted) F16 | 1/40 sec. | ISO 1000 | @21mm:

Using 'Screen/viewfinder display (3) -> screen' has the following effects: If I switch the Nauticam housing to viewfinder mode, I can't activate 'display off'. If I switch the Nauticam housing to LCD mode, I can activate 'display off', but the viewfinder switches off after a few seconds in any case, even if I have my eye on the viewfinder. The camera doesn't seem to detect the eye on the viewfinder in this mode. Therefore: if I want to use 'display off', it makes the most sense for me to activate Auto2 and then switch the housing to LCD so that the 'display off' function can be activated.

Thanks for looking into this issue! Since my Nauticam housing unfortunately doesn't have a button for the display illumination, I have to use a different button – which doesn't make any difference in principle. What I've discovered is that the small optical sensor directly below the viewfinder is responsible for automatic detection. If this sensor is covered (in viewfinder mode!), 'display off' doesn't work. I've found a workaround, albeit a bit cumbersome: If I set the screen/viewfinder display to Auto2 and then switch the lever on the Nauticam housing to LCD, I can activate 'display off' because the optical sensor below the viewfinder seems to be deactivated.

I'll have to try to replicate that tomorrow (it's already quite late here in Germany 😴), but I'm just realizing that my nauticam case doesn't have a button for the display backlight.😐

Hello JayceeB, I use the LCD/VF switch on top of my Nauticam housing to switch between the viewfinder and the display – this is very convenient because I don't have to go into the camera menu or assign a shortcut button. However, I practically never use the display anyway... My 'problem' is that I can't assign the 'display off' function to any button, as the R5 seems to detect that something is near the viewfinder. Perhaps you could try assigning the 'display off' function to a button on your camera. I'm very curious to see if that might work for you.