Adrian Gresores

FYI. I have already sold the lens, but am still interested in buying the port.

Selling my Letonpower Sealion L24 12,000‑lumen underwater video/focus light. Used on one dive trip (~4 dives total) and in excellent, near‑new condition. Fully tested, never flooded, and maintained properly after each use. This is a complete kit with all original accessories, the original case, and four nearly‑new 18650 batteries (light uses 3 → 1 spare). Ready to dive. Included Sealion L24 12,000‑lumen video/focus light 4× 18650 batteries (~4 dive cycles each) Original protective case USB charging cable Tether Spare O‑rings O‑ring grease Manual Full original accessory kit Condition Notes Only ~4 dives Impeccable cosmetic and functional condition O‑rings cleaned/greased after each use Stored dry with caps off Beam tested: clean, even, no flicker Never flooded Why I’m Selling Consolidating my lighting kit. Price $185 shipped (US) Local pickup available in San Antonio, TX. Happy to answer questions or provide additional photos.

I am interested in buying a used Panasonic 8mm fisheye m43 lens and either an AOI DLP-05 or DLP-06 dome port. If you have any of these available, please let me know here or via [email protected].

The more I thought about it, the more it made sense to simplify. Bringing both the MFO‑1 and CMC‑2 on separate bayonets would just add unnecessary complexity, so I’d rather stick with a single flip adapter. Sure, the MFO‑1 would be easy enough to pack, but given the range of creature sizes in the Caribbean, I doubt I’d ever finish a dive thinking, “Damn, I wish I’d brought the MFO‑1.” On the other hand, I can imagine spotting something tiny and thinking, “Damn, I wish I’d had the CMC‑2.”

Our trip is at the end of February. If I decide to sell it (my guess is that I will), I can let you know then.

At this point, I've decided on the following for our Turks & Caicos next month. Leave the MFO-1 at home. Dive with the CMC-2 on a flip adapter. If I don't miss the MFO-1, sell it when I get home. Consider selling the CMC-2 and flip adapter, too, if I don't end up using it much (although I got a great deal on those. Does that sound reasonable?

I think I understand your points better now, but I’d like to ask a couple of related questions. As I understand it, the bare 60mm has a working distance of roughly 80 mm to infinity (without limiting the focus range) and a maximum magnification of 1:1. The MFO-1 shortens the minimum focus distance to about 58 mm, which increases magnification slightly to around 1:1.1 and also reduces the amount of water between the camera and subject, which is obviously a plus. It does limit the maximum focus distance to roughly 1.12 m, but realistically there’s rarely a good reason to shoot macro beyond 1 m anyway. On m43, the improvements in image quality and focus hunting seem likely to be marginal or even negligible. Given that, do you feel the reduced minimum focus distance alone is enough to justify keeping and using the MFO-1, considering the added weight and bulk it adds to the setup? Do you personally use it in a similar configuration? Alternatively, would it be just as good—or even preferable—to shoot with the bare 60mm and rely on a CMC-2 on a flip adapter for the (probably rare) situations where I need more magnification?

Thank you for such a comprehensive answer. I thought this was a simple question, but it seems the answer may be far from that. If I understood you correctly, the CMC-2, like all diopters, may not be a great choice for my m43 setup. The focus distance would be too close and thus difficult. I suppose I should have done more research first. Now, I wonder if I should keep the MFO-1, and ditch the CMC-2. 🥴 That being said, if diopters do not work well with m43, what option would you suggest for super macro, only the 90mm lens?

Thanks. I've seen you say that before. It is very confusing. Some swear by the lens, some hate it. I am still not sure how I feel about it.

I can understand that, but wouldn't the CMC-2 do that, also?

I know there has already been a lot of discussion about the utility and value of the Nauticam MFO-1, but I’d still really appreciate some advice specific to my setup. I’m shooting an OM-1 in an AOI UH-OM1II housing with the Olympus 60mm macro. I currently own an MFO-1 and just picked up a used CMC-2. The main reason I’ve kept the MFO-1 so far is that it does let me get slightly closer to the subject and increases magnification to about 1:1.1, compared to 1:1 with just the 60mm alone. That said, in my experience, and other comments I have read, e.g. from Alex Mustard, the improvement in image quality and reduction in focus hunting seem pretty marginal. Given this setup, would you keep the MFO-1 or ditch it? Does it still fill a useful niche alongside the CMC-2, or is it mostly redundant at this point? I’d be interested to hear from anyone who has real-world experience with a similar configuration.

The MFO-1 provides only mild magnification on my 60mm, and has mild improvement in other parameters. So, most of the time, I would shoot with it on. If I want more magnification, I would switch it for my true close-up lens. And, occasionally, I could just have both on the bayonet adapters. I'm pretty sure the effect on balance won't be much different than a double flip holder.

I could see how that would be undesirable. With the double bayonet holder I plan to use now, except for the brief moments when I am actually exchanging lenses, there will always be one attached to the macro lens and one on the holder. It should not affect the balance at all.

Imagine something like this with close-up lenses mounted on the crossbar instead of the WWL, and plain arms instead of the float arms.

Thanks, Chris. I think I’ve actually worked out a solution, and it turns out I can do it mostly with gear I already have. I’m using the AOI bayonet system for my lenses, and I already have one of the AOI female bayonet adapters that fits an Ultralight arm. I thought that particular adapter had been discontinued, but I found the Fantasea version still available at Bluewater Photo. I don’t want to mount the adapters on my 5-inch arms since those will have floats. Instead, I’m planning to mount two adapters back‑to‑back on an 8-inch arm, positioned horizontally above the housing with 3-inch ball clamps on each end. Each clamp will also have an Ultralight SB‑04, which my strobe arms will attach to. It seems like a workable setup to me. What do you think? The Inon float arm option does look very slick, but it would cost roughly four times as much.

I have considered that, also. I just can't wrap my head around the best solution with my current AOI bayonets, Ultralight arms (I would like to use 5" arms), STIX floats, trying to keep the whole kit compact, and not too heavy underwater. You do make a good point. I am just conflicted. For wide angle, it's easy: 14-42mm and UWL-09 PRO (OM-1 with AOI housing). For macro, I use the Oly 60mm. I am finally at the point where I want to start to shoot tiny things but also would like to do fish portraits. At minimum, I would probably do a single flip adapter with my UCL-05LF. Do I just give up on my MFO-1, then? I know I could upgrade to a CMC, but don't think I want that expense right now.

I could, and have, but prefer not to. I would have to use a double flip adapter. I don't like the added bulk and weight of have 2 lenses up there.

I use a bayonet mount system for wet close-up lenses and keep them in my tech short pockets to switch out. The problem is opening the pocket with a hand full of lens, and then keeping that pocket open to stuff that lens in and clip it to one of the bungee loops. Anyone else have that problem? Any tricks to make it easier?

Yeah, I've had that problem with the shorts, too 😁.

Looking to buy a used OM-1 (I or II) and an AOI UH-OM1 housing, both or either. If you have one available, please contact me at [email protected]. Thanks, Adrian Gresores

I prefer a bayonet system, too. I dive with the 60mm with an MFO-1 mounted and +5 diopter in my cargo shorts pocket. My question is whether you tether your close-up lenses in any way. I actually dropped my MFO-1 in the water off Grand Cayman after removing it and getting distracted before I could get it in the pocket; fortunately, my wife picked it up.

I could, but I also choose to believe S&S until it has been proven otherwise. If it doesn't work out, those strobes will also be returned.

Actually, I already ran into this problem. I was told by Bluewater Photo that the Marelux Apollo S strobes would work with my camera and housing to support both RC and HSS, only to find that neither was true when I received the strobes. Marelux has told me version 2 of the strobes should work (however, I have a number of other issues with the strobes and will just be returning them). Since my YS-D3 Duos work perfectly in RC with my camera and housing, I am assuming S&S's new strobe will, also - and, if so, will also work with HSS. That is still to be determined in the real world. Should I go the HF-1 route, I'll have to verify that they will work first. If I can get HSS with just a strobe change, I would prefer to go that route. If not, I'll have to decide whether it's enough to make a bigger change in my setup. Thanks for your thoughts.

That fits what I thought. Now, I just have to pick a strobe. Considering HF-1 vs upcoming S&S YS-D130R.

I have 2 YS-D3 Duo strobes and have been quite happy with them. However, they do not have HSS capability. Do you use HSS? Do you think it is worthwhile upgrading my strobes just for that feature? If so, do you have a particular strobe recommendation? I would like to stay below about $1000 per strobe.