Adrian Gresores

Imagine something like this with close-up lenses mounted on the crossbar instead of the WWL, and plain arms instead of the float arms.

Thanks, Chris. I think I’ve actually worked out a solution, and it turns out I can do it mostly with gear I already have. I’m using the AOI bayonet system for my lenses, and I already have one of the AOI female bayonet adapters that fits an Ultralight arm. I thought that particular adapter had been discontinued, but I found the Fantasea version still available at Bluewater Photo. I don’t want to mount the adapters on my 5-inch arms since those will have floats. Instead, I’m planning to mount two adapters back‑to‑back on an 8-inch arm, positioned horizontally above the housing with 3-inch ball clamps on each end. Each clamp will also have an Ultralight SB‑04, which my strobe arms will attach to. It seems like a workable setup to me. What do you think? The Inon float arm option does look very slick, but it would cost roughly four times as much.

I have considered that, also. I just can't wrap my head around the best solution with my current AOI bayonets, Ultralight arms (I would like to use 5" arms), STIX floats, trying to keep the whole kit compact, and not too heavy underwater. You do make a good point. I am just conflicted. For wide angle, it's easy: 14-42mm and UWL-09 PRO (OM-1 with AOI housing). For macro, I use the Oly 60mm. I am finally at the point where I want to start to shoot tiny things but also would like to do fish portraits. At minimum, I would probably do a single flip adapter with my UCL-05LF. Do I just give up on my MFO-1, then? I know I could upgrade to a CMC, but don't think I want that expense right now.

I could, and have, but prefer not to. I would have to use a double flip adapter. I don't like the added bulk and weight of have 2 lenses up there.

I use a bayonet mount system for wet close-up lenses and keep them in my tech short pockets to switch out. The problem is opening the pocket with a hand full of lens, and then keeping that pocket open to stuff that lens in and clip it to one of the bungee loops. Anyone else have that problem? Any tricks to make it easier?

Yeah, I've had that problem with the shorts, too 😁.

Looking to buy a used OM-1 (I or II) and an AOI UH-OM1 housing, both or either. If you have one available, please contact me at [email protected]. Thanks, Adrian Gresores

I prefer a bayonet system, too. I dive with the 60mm with an MFO-1 mounted and +5 diopter in my cargo shorts pocket. My question is whether you tether your close-up lenses in any way. I actually dropped my MFO-1 in the water off Grand Cayman after removing it and getting distracted before I could get it in the pocket; fortunately, my wife picked it up.

I could, but I also choose to believe S&S until it has been proven otherwise. If it doesn't work out, those strobes will also be returned.

Actually, I already ran into this problem. I was told by Bluewater Photo that the Marelux Apollo S strobes would work with my camera and housing to support both RC and HSS, only to find that neither was true when I received the strobes. Marelux has told me version 2 of the strobes should work (however, I have a number of other issues with the strobes and will just be returning them). Since my YS-D3 Duos work perfectly in RC with my camera and housing, I am assuming S&S's new strobe will, also - and, if so, will also work with HSS. That is still to be determined in the real world. Should I go the HF-1 route, I'll have to verify that they will work first. If I can get HSS with just a strobe change, I would prefer to go that route. If not, I'll have to decide whether it's enough to make a bigger change in my setup. Thanks for your thoughts.

That fits what I thought. Now, I just have to pick a strobe. Considering HF-1 vs upcoming S&S YS-D130R.

I have 2 YS-D3 Duo strobes and have been quite happy with them. However, they do not have HSS capability. Do you use HSS? Do you think it is worthwhile upgrading my strobes just for that feature? If so, do you have a particular strobe recommendation? I would like to stay below about $1000 per strobe.

Anyone know of any retailers of the Howshot L connectors, other than Divervision? Shipping charges to USA from them are just excessive. Also, I don't have a 3D printer, so that is not a viable option for me (unless someone wants to print some out and sell them to me).

I had had an inexpensive flip adapter I bought off AliExpress. It worked great until it didn't. Then, I decided I wanted to be able to switch between my MFO-1 and Fantasea/AOI +6. Got the SAGA dual flip adapter. The lenses fit well, but I returned it before using it. It just seemed too bulky and cumbersome. Instead, I'll use the Fantasea/AOI bayonet mounts like I already use for my AOI UWL-09 PRO WACL.

Unfortunately, I have an AOI housing and have no design skills or 3D printer myself.

That custom macro port ring float looks great. How did you make it?

If I can get the image improvement of the MFO-1, then I might not be tempted to upgrade to the CMC-1 or 2 :). thanks.

That is great to know. If the CMC-1 works, then I can expect the MFO-1 to work. Anyhow, I will try it out.

I have an OM-D E-M10 IV. For macro, I use the OM 60mm f2.8 macro lens and Nauticam MFO-1. I would like to get some more magnification but keep the image quality of the MFO-1. I know I could just buy a CMC-1 or CMC-2. However, I already own a Fantasea UCL-05LF close-up lens. I wonder if stacking it with the MFO-1 would give me better image quality than that close-up lens alone. Anyone have any experience stacking the MFO-1 or have any thoughts about it?

Hey folks, looking for a bit of insight. I’m shooting with an Olympus E-M10 Mark IV in a Backscatter Octo housing, using dual Sea & Sea YS-D3 Duo strobes. I usually stick with RC mode, which limits me to a max shutter speed of 1/160 sec. That’s generally fine, but in bright conditions with clear water, I sometimes want to bump up the shutter speed to darken the ambient light and get a nicer, deeper blue background. Would HSS (Super FP mode) be a good option here? I know I could switch the strobes to manual, but I’d rather keep using RC if possible. Anyone tried this setup or have thoughts on how well HSS works underwater with this gear?

Hello there. I have been diving since 1978 and doing various kinds of photography since then. My wife and I took a 20-year hiatus from diving due to the normal things, kids, work, etc. We've been diving again since 2018 and have become more and more addicted to it. Simultaneously, I have done more and more underwater photography. I am still quite an amateur but improving quickly as I learn.