Jens H

And this is how it looks like when I increase the saturation (not selectively, this would be a lie) in Lightroom.

Dear Hiloboy, dear all! I was contacted by pm but would like to post my (extended) answer also here because I think it might be of interest for others es well, especially since my above answer might be unsatisfactory for some of you. To be honest: In fact, it somehow is. Honestly, I don't think your photo looks bad. Mine looks very similar. I think our eyes are very easily fooled in this situation. They somehow "sense" that something unusual is going on, that there is light present in a color that shouldn't really exist under those conditions, or at least these colour does not exist anywhere near or around the red "glowing" object. There are probably other effects involved as well. Our visual system tends to perceive this red color as a very strong color accent. Depending on the camera settings, the automatic white balance may also be working against the effect to some extent. Sorry, but for the moment I don't have a better explanation either. In fact, fluorescence underwater, or "fluo diving", is also very interesting from an ecological perspective. Why do fluorescent organisms occur mainly in shallow water? Because GFP acts as a natural sunscreen. The high-energy green and blue light is converted into lower-energy orange or red light. This reduces the risk that high-energy radiation will cause "sunburn" and thus damage or destroy tissue. And now something a bit more off-topic regarding red light underwater: For us photographers, it is often helpful to use red light as a focus light because it disturbs many underwater organisms less, especially fish. Why is that? Because beyond a certain depth, red light no longer exists underwater. As a result, there has been little or no evolutionary selective pressure for the development of sensors (eyes) that can detect red light. After all, why would an organism "accidentally" evolve a sensor for a signal that simply does not exist in its natural environment? Most fish are unable to perceive red light, although there are notable exceptions. More on this in just a moment. Still not enough crazy facts about red light underwater? Some fish actually fluoresce red! They use this fluorescence to communicate with members of their own species, and their "language" cannot be eavesdropped on because other fish species cannot see it. It's like transmitting on a radio channel that no one else can monitor. As always, exceptions prove the rule, because, of course, these particular fish species are able to perceive red light themselves!

Natural red light does not exist at a certain depth. What you see here is a derivative of green fluorescent protein (GFP), a red-fluorescent protein found inside the anemone. The protein generates the red light from green or blue light. (The fluorescence is excited by light with a very specific, shorter wavelength). If the flash is too strong, it will overpower the fluorescent light. Without flash it should work. No idea why it doesn’t in your case. I photographed a similar looking anemone some years ago without problems.

After using several GoPros for many years, I decided to switch to the Osmo Action 5 last year following extensive research, and I’ve never regretted it. Due to its smaller sensor, the GoPro has a significant drawback, especially in low-light conditions like those found underwater. Footage shot at greater depths and in caves/caverns/overhangs is heavily noisy, whereas the Osmo Action offers clear advantages in these situations.

I just did some compatibility tests which confused me: The knobs from my long Nauticam clamps (https://www.nauticam.com/products/long-standard-clamp) fit on my H2O Tools clamps and vice versa. The screws are M6 50 mm (metric)!

I would like to pimp my system with colored T-knobs for my clamps: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1595469-REG/ultralight_ac_tk_sr_splashy_red_t_knob_for.html However, I am not sure if they would fit on my clamps from H2OTools: unterwasser-fotografieren.deH2o-Tools Kugel-Klammer Schwarz - unterwasser-fotografier...BlitzarmAny idea if they would fit? I am not sure if the H2O-Tools are maybe metric (ultralight are us/inch) or have another thread pitch)? Thanks for your help, Jens

iPad Pro 2021, Safari.

I am a Biologist and willing to test. However, as others already stated, I am worried about my catalogue. Does the plugin automatically write the data or just after approving a suggestion from the app? I would strongly prefer a standalone app which I can use for my developed files only. They are easy to restore. Just in case… The text on your website which is located on the right hand side of the page (black background) is unreadable (cut on the right side). Regards, Jens

Goodman handle: Orcatorch ZD710MK2 or D710 Mounted on housing: 2 x Wurkkos DL08

I have been three times to Southern Ari Atoll, Maldives, and always had several Whale sharks. The Islands around there (Angaga, Vakarufalhi, …) all organise full day trips to the Whale shark spots around Holiday Island and Sun Island. However, this was several years ago, and meanwhile, it seems to be VERY crowded there, lots of boats, snorkelers, mass tourism.

My setup for night dives is the same as for dives during the day. I always have a torch with a neoprene Goodman handle on my right hand, as well as two small torches that can be switched between spot, flood, red, and UV modes. The latter are mounted next to the base mount of my strobes (a dual ball mount on each side of the housing: one for the strobe arm, the second for the light). They are used as focus lights and for video. This setup gives me maximum flexibility: I can direct the main light in any direction using the Goodman handle, while at the same time I always have focus lights pointing in the same direction as the camera. The focus lights are only turned on when needed, whereas the light on the Goodman handle is almost always on. Why red light? Some creatures, especially fish, cannot see red light. This allows you to approach them more closely without scaring them away.

I am sure that our moderators hate this discussion here, but since the first version of your (now corrected) post contained a strong offense against me, I feel the need to clarify the situation. Your post is full of half-truths and falsehoods. 1) The trigger which was ordered was advertised on the UW technics website exactly as I needed it. Therefore, if it was a "customized" converter, your website must have been wrong at that time. Worth mentioning in this context is that the first version of the TTL board had the wrong pin-out and was not compatible with the isotta bulkhead and you had to re-build it, thats the information I got from you. For me it seems that this converter was the very first of its kind you ever built, not a "customized version". 2) Its not true that the connection of my N5 cords were unreliable. After some discussions, we both agreed that this cannot be the reason since I tested 6 cords (4 from me, 2 from my friend), all showed the same problem, while another converter worked perfectly fine with the same setup and with each of the cords. I dont get it why you bring up this point once again which was already ruled out! 3) I already mentioned that the TTL converter worked with the oldest Subtronic Nova flashes but NOT with the newer ones. Your theory that the age of the strobes is the reason for the problem is therefore not true. 4) At no point was I informed that UW Technics had reimbursed my dealer. That wouldn’t make any sense anyway, since I hadn’t returned the converter. That’s why I don’t understand the procedure described here—and certainly not Pavel’s (now-deleted) comment that this was, in essence, a dirty trick on my part. Such accusations by a dealer against a customer in a forum are, to put it mildly, outrageous—potential customers can form their own opinion on the matter. 5) My messages you mention to be "inadequate" asked you for help to narrow down the problem together with Subtronic. Be honest and don't talk such bullshit. Here are the original messages I sent: "Its a pity that you ignore customers although you made money with them. Mr. Tick from Subtronic is still trying to solve the problem, he is reprogramming the Subtronic software in order to become faster. In other words, he tries to adapt the Subtronic flashes in order to make them york with your converter. It should be the other way round." "lets narrow down the problem. I am still experimenting here and in intensive contact with Subtronic. Mr. Tick currently tries to adapt the software for the flash by removing "pauses" (whatever that means) in order to make the flash faster. He asked me how many pre-flashes Olympus has. As far as I know, 2. But I read somewhere else that it depends on the situation. Do you know? Do you know if the pre-flashes of the old OMD E-M1 have a lower frequency than the preflashes of the new OM-1? Which serial numbers do your Subtronic flashes have? Today I found out that it works a bit more reliable (still far away from perfevt) with program 6 for Inon Z330. Maybe that helps for narrowing wodn the problem. All this information would be helpful." As long as there are no further offensive posts against me and no misrepresentations of the facts, the matter is settled for me. Regards, Jens

Only Chuck Norris can start a new thread right after registering in this forum.

A warm “welcome to this forum, old man” from one old man to another. I mean, the moment you dropped the word “decades,” you were basically begging for a greeting like that. Jens

I agree with you about your take on muck diving. I, too, thought it was similar to diving in a muddy lake—poor visibility and the occasional sighting of a strange creature. But when I visited Bali for the first time, I discovered my love for muck diving. It’s best to always go with a local guide. That way, you get to see the TRULY bizarre creatures that you’d otherwise almost always swim right past. Each dive is different, new creatures you have never seen before at each dive. Just awesome.