brightnight

Started designing a N120 cap and decided to do a more intensive search online. Found one on Thingiverse and is slightly loose but seems to work fine. There is also a female version on that site made by the same user so credit to the creator: dsiviero. File location: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5326351/files Nauticam N120 Port Cover Male - 5326351.zip

Can do, would be a lot easier if I can find a drawing/specs for what a N85 cap looks like. Easy to model my N120 cap off what I have and test fit, harder with a N85 that I don't have but will give it a shot and maybe you can print it and tell me if it fits or I can mail you some pieces

Was looking to print a N120 Housing Body Cap but haven't been able to find a file for it. Anyone know if one exists? Looks easy to design but figured I'd ask before spending time on it.

Interesting, I wasn't aware it was a real email service. I often see weird odd names for phishing sites and assumed it was something like that but glad you pointed out it's legit, will have to check it out.

If you don't know the person, I would strongly suggest paying with paypal good and services. The fee Paypal charges will let you fight the charge if they don't send something within a specified amount of time. Also, list the items in the transaction description before sending money so if you do have to esclate a case to Paypal the scammer can't try to write the money off for a non deliverable good such as "web services" Red Flags to Me: -Price to good to be true -Suggestionsto use a weird email address with an non normal domain name to talk to someone that isn't on theis site -Pressuring you to send money in a method which gives you no recourse when an item isn't sent -Lack of responses -Insulting you -Spaces in name of email, probably to hide it from programs scraping the forum to protect you -Check how long to account has been active and their activity -Even accounts with lots of experience can be hacked and the user impersonated so stay sharp! -Most scammers will try to use VPN's to access this site so you might be able to check with a moderator to see if they are using one Scam email example from this website:

First time I've mounted my 7" monitor and no surprise...it's big and heavy. Assume it will be the same story in the water. Is there a better way to mount or orient it other than what I have pictured? Seems like the farther away the monitor is from the housing the longer the lever and the easier it can move around. null null I say this having no experience mounting or using a monitor but I feel the desire to hard mount it to two or three locations on the housing and only use the screen tilt if that makes sense. Curious what has worked for others.

Looking for a Nauticam N120 Extension Ring 25 (can be a I or a II).

Is this type of flooding a results of warming the metal housing up quickly that the metal housing expands faster than the o-ring leaving a gap for the water to get pulled in or what's the underlying cause?

Made my first set of cables today. Originally cut the fiber with sissors and couldn't get the strobe to trigger. Used a razor blade to cut the fiber and now it's firing every time. Pretty pumped! Based on reccomendations from this thread I went with DiverVision for the parts and INDUSTRIAL FIBER OPTICS for the fiber optic cable: 81 0556 - 613-core Fused Multi-core Simplex Cable, Polyethylene Jacket Leadtime:estimated 3-4 weeks- MCQ-1000

Appreciate all the advice and suggestions! Looked into many options to add a vacuum sensor but they are all pretty pricey for what it is. Still, would be nice to have for peace of mind and might allow me to preemptively save my rig before the water alarm goes off. Now that I've confirmed that my setup doesn't have the capability to indicate if there is a vacuum or if the vacuum is lost, I think I might just build my own sensor system. Looks like there's plenty of room for a small board in my housing and I can pop an LED indicator up near the LCD window. Will make a DIY post so others can follow if I decide to make one.

I assume I should only put my battery in the leak detection circuit when I will be using it as I don't have a switch to turn everything on or off. I tested my leak detection circuit and it works (blinking a red LED and beeping) when I apply water to the contacts. In videos online I’ve seen the more modern Nauticam housings have an LED that goes green when the vacuum is pulled and red when the vacuum is released. I assume that because my leak detection system is older that it doesn't have that functionality. Is it worth it to upgrade it and is that something I can install myself? null

Setting up my Nauticam 5dmIII housing for the first time and was wondering if someone can help me understand some of the basics I still don't understand: 1) I have an older style vacuum port that has a gauage that is listed in in/Hg. How much vacuum I should pull on the housing when diving? All the recent videso I could find on this only go by a colored blinking LED which I don't have. Around 13in/Hg the vacuum pump was making a clicking noise when I pulled it back every time and it sounded like I was starting to stress what I assume was the bladder inside the hand pump but wasn't sure what's normal and if that was too much. I left the housing at 15in/Hg overnight and it held for 24 hours. 2) I'll mostly be taking my housing from warmer air into colder water that's ~40F (4C). Do people put silica gel packets in their housings or how much is condensation/moisture going to be a problem? I know some people soak their cameras before diving but it's unclear to be how much this is going to help and worried condensation or fogging might still be a problem. 3) I have a Nauticam FLash trigger for Canon which takes two CR3032 batteries and the user manual says it's good for 5000 flashes. I'd really like to know the standby time too (powered on but not being used), does anyone have any idea what that might be? Obviously I won't leave it on but it might happen or might be using it for 8 hours non stop and would be good to know. Part Number: NA-26301

Looking for a nauticam replacement viewfinder: null

Will definitely post results. Waiting for my Seaskin drysuit build to be finsihed so won't have it in the water until late May.

Wasn't an easy decision and talked to many people. Ultimately I was on a tight budget for a monitor which really limited my choices even with used gear. I got a great deal on a lightly used Kraken 7" for about $1300. It's 2200 knits, comes with a bulkhead,HDMI cable, and different HDMI adapters. If it fails I can't just replace the monitor but talked to a couple people who had good experiences and the Kraken support was responsive to my questions.

I can't speak from personal experience as my monitor just arrived yet but these are the scenerios where it will be particurally helpful to me: -Holding camera underwter off the side of a boat -Holding the camera on the bottom in shallow water close to a subject and can't get down to the camera for a variety of reasons (spook the animal you're photographing, snorkling, etc)., -Just want to frame the shot better and need a bigger scren to do it

Apprecaite the heads up but member here hooked me up with a pair of Inon Z330's!

Looking forward to making some strobe cables! Just ordered some 613-core Fused Multi-core Simplex Cable and these connectors for the Nauticam 5dMIII housing and Inon Z330 strobes. If I missed anything please let me know. Strobe Side: Howhsot Fiber Adapter for INON https://reurl.cc/YVoqn0 Nauticam Housing side: Howshot Fiber Adapter Set M11 for Nauticam Housings https://reurl.cc/eLoynK

Is there an easy way to leave seller feedback? All good experiences, just want to help people build seller reputations and didn't see anything when going to their profile.

I was eyeing those 🙂 but yeah, a bit outside my budget and didn't want to low ball you. They look like they are in great shape and I hear great things about them.

According to this listing I believe they sold: https://www.ebay.com/itm/116001392408?itmmeta=01HPMTDHY38GECEKW5Z46HQ68B&hash=item1b0238c718:g:fmUAAOSw8yBlZk4x&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwNz0c7D9XTlu0L1TyQMM3sK77MvjKuFKZIXJzU6x%2Bll%2BCldXebJzd4garh8gGfCizE%2F%2BhvoDhfa08y1oOmtbVXi5Ws4P%2BZiJ%2BQKu5ecFNq8yYx3V8tnkHWUwiTscpjsI6IPoW7oV0lw%2BL8fUXtn8LQohcUxjRzqiXclQrPVpe34TwJ83ogowG%2Fz3q2BEcIWUaRE0mN2GlG%2FvU%2F%2BhItZH8be0B41laEc38TVD0tF6wuV3JQznukoZ%2Bc5p6RXkevZd5w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4qftpq1Yw

Nope, thanks for checking. Long time member on Scuba Board had their account hacked. Person that impersonated them listed a single Z330 for an amazing price which was a red flag. He asked me and another person interested to pay paypal friends and family, we both refused but sent money for goods and services. Were able to get our money back. User who's account was hacked was on top of their game and had their account back under control in 2 hours which is an amazing feat and posted about it to warn us. He also wrote a statement that greatly helped my Paypal case.

That very interesting, I had assumed the size would be the biggest challange with a larger monitor being harder to move through the water but I've never been diving with one. Thanks for your input!

Thank you I really appreciate all the advice! I posted a month or so ago looking for Z330's but would be a good idea to post again. I "bought" one on the classifieds but someone had their account hacked and it was a scam. Thankfully despite what the hacked account asked for, I paid with paypal goods and services and was able to get my money back after a long dispute with Paypal. I have the classifieds bookmarked and check 2-3 times a day, the flashes on Scuba board ended up going to someone local but I still have a couple months for something to pop up. I'm also aware that I might be asking too much from what I want in a strobe. It seems like when somone gets into a new hobby they naively want one thing that can do it all. Cheap, small, powerfull, etc, and usually you can't have it all. I recognize that I might need two different types of strobes, one for snorkeling that are compact and don't have tons of power and another larger higher power set but trying to find the best of everything including cost at the moment : )

Thanks for the tips, unfortuantely the 330's sold before I could get them. I keep wondering when Inon will release a replacement but none on their distributors are aware of any releases so might end up looking at the Inon 240 V4. Thanks again!