Dave_Hicks

The standard emergency kit is: Diet Coke to remove battery acid, if needed Blunt end of a chopstick or pencil with a bit of t-shirt or makeup pad rubber-banded to the end Some alcohol for the pad on the chopstick Rubbing action If that doesn't work, use fine sandpaper in place of alcohol soak cotton pad You can get better products like DeOxit Gold to clean your contacts before you are on a trip with fewer resources.

Nothing new about proprietary TTL systems. Looking at you Ikelite!!!

Some good ideas there. I might experiment with more range and a gray card.

FYI: Photoshop also shows a mean average of luminosity. A small selection square on the target covers about 20,000 pixels and computes the brightness. Using that mean luminosity value (on a 0-255 scale) instead of the brightness (a 0-99 scale) reading does not meaningfully change any of the results. Your table reads from possibly different locations than I used and is based on an image down sampled from 8000px to about 100px. Converted from raw->>tiff->>jpg 500px->>pasted into Word->>screenshotted to PNG->>uploaded to forum. Not a great way to source data.

Not that i disagree with you. But give me a break, your numbers are not exactly from an original source having gone through at least 4 or 5 size, compression, and format conversions on the way to your screen.

Not using Lightroom but Photoshop, which has a point selection tool for histogram values. Are these % numbers totally accurate? Probably not, but they are a relative point of comparison that is consistent. And the only quantitative tool available to me. You also have the photos for reference and can draw your own conclusions.

Nice. I solved that problem a little differently and made a tpu hood that stays on all the time, especially when diving. Personalized:

I have been snooting with the Atom on medium power (4 levels) and get about 2 hours with the lamp on the whole time. At least 25-50% battery left after two hours.

The light is on a YS mount attached to a ball one the top of the Nauticam housing. The ys mount makes it easy to flip the light up for snooting or shooting a portrait of someone without blinding them.

That Kraken 1800 is very similar to my OrcaTorch. The 21700 batteries are the way to go.

Try a night dive! But seriously, in clear bright water you may not need a light for focusing. The camera may be able to achieve focus much if the time. But go under an overhang, swim-through, cloudy sky, or even setting sun in the shadow of a wall and it might be a problem. For me, i actually want to see the true colors of everything and a bright wide beam focus light is both my focus light and primary dive light. I bring it always even to the brightest destinations. You will always find a situation where it helps you get more from a dive. I am using the Orcatorch d710v mk2 these days. Small, simple, bright, with good battery life.

A fair summary. The Maxi and HF-1 are competitive with each other in relative brightness. All the shots are in air. See the electrical outlet on the left. 😀 I do have a pool but it is about 8c in there at the moment. Not gonna do it!

The 4500k filters loose .5 fstop vs unfiltered. It's a significant difference. I don't expect that to change in the boost levels.

Likely there is dimenishing returns or efficiency at the high end. The histograms at the top levels do show more light but it is a very minor difference stepping from boost to full on both strobes. Setting such a small apeture and ISO might flatten the gradient some what and a light meter could show a different spread. None of these strobes did any throttling as I took only two or three frames at the high power levels. And i don't think i have ever shot a wide angle strobe at full power on a proper dive. My poor snoot strobes like the MF-2 and Atom get a much tougher work out.

https://makerworld.com/models/2322173?appSharePlatform=copy