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Dave_Hicks

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  1. Thanks for sharing! I will try adding another 20mm ring and do some pool tests with both 79mm and 59mm. (19 + 20 + 40)
  2. What is the spherical diameter of your dome? You need that to figure out the optimal position of the dome. For my 100mm dome I calculated the base mount of the dome should be 59mm from the housing mount. So my dome port mount is actually a 19mm extension. This positions the inside surface of the dome at an optimal distance from the focal plane inside the 60mm lens. I'm not absolutely certain that is exactly correct, but it seems to be working out quite well. If I discover that it could be better positioned I can always adjust the base extension length. I can print a new extension ring overnight if needed, so it's not difficult to make adjustments.
  3. Super. My cap is also rubber for the same reasons. The open mesh design makes it a lot easier to remove and install underwater and makes rinsing simpler.
  4. Very nice. I looked up that Inon part. Interesting modular dome available in glass or acrylic. It seems designed to mount on to various Inon base ports. How did you get it on an n120 ring? Did you make that part, or find something comercialy available? That acrylic version that you have is quite inexpensive at $135 usd and the glass is not a whole lot more. This could be a pretty good and easily available source of part for anyone that want to try a similar curved macro port. I've been using my 3d printed port and extensions for a couple of weeks now and have about 4-5 dives with is completed. It's been really fantastic. Here is an updated photo to the final product, configured with a 40mm printed extension ring and port cap.
  5. Attaching a photo shot with the Kraken at F11 at near zero range from the subject. This was taken in pretty chunky water, but if you look at the lower left you can get an idea of corner sharpness. The upper right is much further away and not in the plane of focus, plus chunks...
  6. The Kraken got a lot less use once i got WWL-1 which is a great option for Wide-Macro shoots. Pretty wide to Near macro and high quality at all ranges. The Kraken has corner issues for sure, but it does not always matter. But i still pull it out for some scenarios. When I want true macro abilities with the 60mm and a diopter with wide options. The CFWA of the Kraken is better than WWL as it has something of a fisheye effect in accentuating the center subject. It is also even wider than the 130degs of the WWL/WACP so close up it works like a fisheye. I would not chose the Kraken for a reef shoot, my 8-15 FE is better for that. A good all rounder picks the WWL. But kraken still get in the rotation a few times every year. It has some real useful abilities.
  7. Yes, i use that TC on the Z8. Everything works great.
  8. The Kraken KRL09 provides a 154.8deg FOV. And it focuses right up to zero range.
  9. I recently got the Turtle3 manual trigger for my Z8 Nauticam system. Didn't need or want TTL but I did want to try HSS and Rear Curtain Sync. It's only about $350 or so. It seems to work well so far.
  10. If the Kraken is in any way similar, that's an exaggeration at best. I often shoot it at f8 and up. The shark photos above were all F8 and they are very sharp.
  11. BTW, one of my regular dive buddies has been borrowing my Kraken for the last several muck dives we have done off the beach in West Seattle. He is really having fun with CFWA shots of giant nudibranchs and loves shooting the Kraken.
  12. Here is a set of 4 photos taken with the Kraken 09s and Nikon 60mm., all on the same dive. The first three are of an 8 foot long Sixgill shark taken from just a few inches away. The fourth is a 1cm hermit crab taken with the 60mm and MFO-1. The Kraken (and I presume the MWL) is very versatile. Excellent for CFWA, and then you have the option for true macro with the 60mm. I tend to use it on dives where they might be a chance for bigger subjects, but also good macro opportunities. The Sixgill dives are ideal for it. You spend about 30 minutes (hoping to see a shark) at 90-100 feet until you exhaust NDL then you head up to shallow water with great macro subjects. Aside from that I like to use it for CFWA scenes and not standard wide angle subjects. Corners are not awesome, but that is not always relevant as you can see below. Nikon Z8 w/Nikon 60mm lens, Kraken KRL09 WA, f8@1/50s iso800, pair of Backscatter HF-1 strobes Nikon Z8 w/Nikon 60mm lens, MOF, f18@1/160s iso250, pair of Backscatter HF-1 strobes
  13. I can put a couple of connectors in an envelope for you that will work better and can be assembled/disassembled easily. No glue needed. Message me with an address.
  14. Assemble and seal housing in an air conditioned room. This reduces humidity in the housing. You can use a scuba tank & drying nozzle to spray extra dry air in the housing as you seal it. Microwave your silica packets as they are probably saturated. A few rounds of 5 minutes at 50% power. Store in a Ziploc bag to keep the extras dry.
  15. I have both, and it sounds like you want the Atoms. They are very nice, compact, and still powerful when you need them to be. They don't have video lights like the HF-1s but have most of the other features. Battery life is not quite as good either, but it's enough for at least two dives and several hundred photos.

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