Dave_Hicks

Coiled cables seem like an instinctive recall to old, coiled telephone handset cords. They don't provide any real utility used with camera strobe arms. And if you have anything but the shortest arms, they actively get in the way. Straight cables are cleaner, more durable, and less likely to get tangled. I stop using them after sealions ate three of my coiled cables in a single weekend, and I decided to DIY rather than pay hundreds of dollars for replacements.

The 60mm is more natural on a DX camera. The 105 is still fast in my experience but it is better on full frame. The d500 has a good focus system.

Good luck. Every underwater device sealed with orings can and will fail, even if you take care. I am very meticulous and I've had a 3-4 strobe and housing leaks across 1500 camera dives. Only one (the first) can i directly attribute to my avoidable errors. I likely made other errors, but less obvious ones. Not replacing orings soon enough for example.

Excellent, hope it works well for you.

Sorry you had this problem. Hopefully Backscatter has upgraded the orings. I had one HF-1 flood, but it did not harm the strobe. Cleaned it up and it is still going strong.

Thanks for the lesson!

Just curious, Is 50hz and PAL still a thing with the near death of broadcast TV? Do TV's and computers in Europe not work and 30, 60, 120hz? Even low end TV's these days tend to do 120hz. Probably most video gets watched on phones that definitely are not 50hz. Please educate us!

Scuba Emergency Shears Camera Arm Mount Having easy access to a cutting tool is one of the critical lessons you learn as a scuba diver. Entanglement hazards like fishing line can be very scary and dangerous. A cutting tool in a pocket or leg sheath you can't reach when entangled is not going to help you. I carry a trilobite-style cutter on my wrist, but I also like to have a set of shears. They can snip heavy line or even steel wire that other knives and cutters can't touch. I always dive with my camera, so I designed this Mount that can attach to the camera arm with velcro straps. It is easy to pop on and off and always accessible. I previously used a nylon pouch but it was ugly and falling apart. This mount is a much more compact, clean and presentable. I printed with ABS but PETG would also be a good choice. PLA is not a good material for underwater objects, and it may be too brittle as well. The object is mostly solid with 3 walls, and I used 95% infill for pressure resistance underwater. Attach the mount to your camera arm (or a DPV, Scooter, etc) with velcro straps or zip ties. The design of the generic ER shear I use is extremely common, so its likely to work with many brands. Download from MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1694576-scuba-emergency-shears-camera-arm-mount#profileId-1796682

Scuba Emergency Shears Camera Arm Mount https://makerworld.com/en/models/1694576-scuba-emergency-shears-camera-arm-mount#profileId-1796682

Pockets can be challenging in a dry suit with heavy gloves. Its surprisingly difficult put something into the pocket and secure it successfully.

Looking good! You may want to mount a spotting light. I currently use a simple and cheap Orcatorch 710V. Small, simple, good battery life.

I have done it both ways. Currently i have a bolt snap on a short bungie and clip the hard cap to my waist d-ring. I have seen others make a custom neoprene cover.

The WWL-C + 24-50mm combo is a big part of why I moved to a mirrorless Z8 from my D850. It's an amazing combo of size and performance. I'm glad you are liking it so far!

This is how I have my arms setup with velcro straps holding the optical fibers. They sell velcro straps in a rainbow of colors, so feel free to get creative with it!

Get some velco straps to keep the cables flush against the arms.