Dave_Hicks

The FoV is pretty good. I really like the 15mm native field, and was hoping to get just a bit more reach for scenarios where that might be desirable. Sharks, etc where you might not get to point blank range. That is where the WWL-C excels with it's near-macro to wide angle range. The 1.4tc gives the 8-15mm a taste of that flexibility. I don't see a huge compromise in sharpness so far, but will take a few more days of images to decide. Here is a Zero range 12mm full field shot from yesterday: Don't you just hate it when some undersea creature decides to have you for lunch? Giant Pacific Octopus (Enteroctopus dolpheini) Nikon Z8 w/8-15mm Fisheye lens + 1.4TC, f9@1/160s iso320, Pair of Retra Maxi strobes with 4500k filters

Today I shot the Nikon 8-15 fisheye + 1.4tc (old kenko) behind a 140mm dome using a 3d printed 40mm port extension and custom zoom gear. I think it worked very well. The "full" field seems to be at 12mm. A few shots were at 11mm and have very slight clipping. Nikon Z8 with Retra Maxi strobes 12mm full field shots: 15mm "bonus 1.4x zoom" shot:

yes, that one. It was my very first 3d printed original design.

I made a preflash button blocker for Inon flashes. I made Retra Maxi knob replacements for the same reason. The knobs are the same shape and i wanted them to feel distinct.

I know that @Kiliii Yuyan is using this lens on a Nauticam housing. He may have some details about what port extension is working best.

Are you going to dive your printed port extension? I recently printed made a Nauticam n120 extension of 40mm and did a successful test dive to 106ft with it. I plan to shoot it this week with my 8-15+1.4tc.

The low tech solution would be to use so Sugru rubber putty to modify your knobs

Super. Lets see a photo of your rig with the shiny new fiber!

I have one triple clamp i have not used in a decade. I would be happy to trade it for a long clamp.

I had two transient, seal hunting PNW Orca's come right up to me and size me up for snacking about 10 years ago while I was on a safety stop. They sniffed but did not taste! I never saw them at all. Everyone on the dive boat could see everything and when I surfaced, I was like - What's going on???

I'll be shooting my Nikon 8-15 with a 1.4tc up in God's Pocket next week. I will share some photos.

Now that the n120 port extension is completed and passed its first deep dive, I wanted to create the n100 model. I made a 20mm n100 test print and it came nicely. The initial draft was made from some second-hand measurements which are rarely perfect on the first draft. I will borrow some n100 ports and a housing to refine the fit in the next couple of weeks.

There is always a better design available. I'd probably experiment with either putting a bridge across the top of those gear teeth, making sure it clears the housing sprocket, or put a thin wall behind them. Both solutions would not alter the inner or outer diameter and would significantly increase the strength of the part. Additionally, a chamfer around the base of those gear teeth could improve layer adhesion reducing breakage. Finally, using a stronger material like ABS in a printer with heated chamber would make it much stronger. The extensive stringing visible on the gear indicates that it could use some more fine tuning of the printer and filament, which could further improve the results.

Seems like a lot of personal info being dropped publicly in this thread. Maybe clean it up and remove all the PII?

A camera zoom gear should work fine with PLA. PETG might be tougher as it flexes a bit and is less brittle, but both should work well. I have printed many gears and never had one break in years of use. If you printed a gear and it is breaking, you need to review how you are printing it. It is most likely that you need to work on printing parameters to improve the result. Dry your filament for 8 hours Increase wall perimeter count to 10 Slow down the print speed to 100mm/s Try another new roll of filament I would be surprised if that didn't solve your problem.