Dave_Hicks

While I am a Nauticam Nikon n120 user, there are an awful lot of shooters using Sony and n100 based housings. Most of my designs have been for n120 parts, and I wanted to branch out with some n100 / Sony items. Here are a few of the first n100 accessories that I have designed. Feel free to contact me if you are interested in any of these. Macro Port125 / Sony 100mm Float +565 grams buoyancyThis port float will almost completely zero out the weight of a Dual Flip with MFO-3 and SMC-3 while also better balancing the front heavy weight distribution. Super tough, durable, and tested well past 40 meters. The underside of the float has protective ribs to take the bumps, scratches, and scrapes without damaging the float. This design works really well and stands the test of time. I've taken my n120 floats on well over 100 dives - often to over 35 meters. N100 Port Extension Rings - 20mm - 70mmAn alternative to high cost Nauticam extension rings. Extension rings in any size. Great fit, light weight, incredibly tough and durable. N100 to N120 35.5mm AdapterWith the release of the new Sony 8-14mm Fisheye lens, this might be of interest to anyone looking to mount the existing Nauticam 140mm dome port with a 35.5 extension+adapther. N120 to n100 Adapter - 15mm Since we are making adapters, might as well go both ways. I mostly made this so that I could test the n100 port extensions and adapters on my n120 based housings.

+1 to what @Grantmac said. Exactly what I have done. Here is an example of natural light, shallow, high speed shooting from Magdalena Bay: Nikon Z8 w/8-15mm Fisheye lens, 15mm, f9@1/160s iso640, Natural light

I would get a multimeter and check continuity between the pins of the hotshoe connector and the trigger circuit board. Possibly a loose wire or solder joint. Much easier on a Nikon camera as there are only 4-5 pins vs many more on Sony.

If both of your strobes are impacted, it's less likely to be a problem with the optical path. I've seen enough shooters on dive trips have problems with flash triggers that I started carrying a spare trigger and a USB soldering iron. Actually, one situation was the hot shoe connecter to the flash trigger. We opened it up and the internal wires to the contacts had broken loose resulting in intermittent firing of the strobes. I was able to solder it back together to get it working.

Try swapping optical fiber cables around Clean the glass fiber ports inside and outside (mostly outside) including the strobe If your fiber is crimped or bent it might not transmit well Using a sharp box cutter blade, cut a few millimeters from the end of the fiber optic cables

Does that mean it is non removable?

Correction: I have the Kenko 1.4x Teleplus Pro 300 DG. Not the DGX. I bought this in 2011 to use with a Tokina lens. My adapter is the FTZ II model. I bought my Z8 around December 2023 and it came with the FTZ II in a bundle deal.

I use the same Kenko TC 1.4 model on my Z8 with no issues. I mostly use it with the Nikon 8-15mm F-mount lens. Nikon Z8 w/8-15mm Fisheye lens + Kenko 1.4TC, f9@1/25s iso640, Pair of Retra Maxi strobe

You got me thinking with this brain-teaser! 😜 Is it a better idea to spend 10-thousand scuba bucks to get a high end beast of the FCP dome, matching lens, and end up with barely measurable but incrementally better quality? Or better to spend Zero scuba-bucks to put together a grab-bag-hobo-hodge-podge of leftover parts and end up with barely measurable but incrementally worse quality? Or do you just slap your forehead in the realization that the problem was with the strobes and lighting all along??!!

I use it with the Nikon Z8 and I find it useful. The best part of it is that it allows the lens to focus a little bit closer but also extends the focus out to a meter unlike with most diopters. I don't see a lot of advantage with autofocus performance the Z8 is pretty awesome at that already. I think it probably improves the image quality a little bit but again I haven't noticed a huge difference from shooting without it.

I use about 1/3 of a sponge. Straight lines are recommended.

That is okay for very light scratches or finishing but you really need Micromesh sandpaper. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0H5B49QWX

It is 90 degrees. Interesting gizmo perhaps designed for those who are unwilling to reposition their strobes? It's not that big of a deal, but it does take a few seconds. But so would unlocking and rotating the housing in this contraption. I like cool innovations in the UW photography space, but this does not unlock or enable anything new.