Dave_Hicks

A couple of recent photos with the Atom: Nikon Z8 w/Nikkor 105mm lens, MFO-1, f11@1/250s iso160, Backscatter Atom with snoot, MF-2 strobes

It's a great macro and snoot strobe while still being capable of wide angle. I really like it. I have one and mostly use it for Macro/Snoot shooting, but also carry it as a backup for my wide angle strobes.

I have seen a very similar failure on a buddies Nauticam flash trigger Hot Shoe. In that case the loose wire was inside the hotshoe part, but very similar. This is also why I travel with a USB-C powered soldering iron! I've now fixed a few housings with wiring issues of several kinds during trips. This is a very simple repair that you can do yourself if you are even a little bit proficient with a soldering iron. If not you, perhaps a friend with some experience? Just unscrew that hot shoe plug to gain access to the connection points and resolder the loose wire.

Got it. Thanks for letting me know it needs to be bigger. If you want to try to print it again, just scale the X&Y (not Z) by 102.3% to get an extra 3mm diameter. I just updated the project on Makerworld to add 3mm of internal diameter to the WWL-1 cap. You can re-download if you don't want to resize.

Is it just a effect of the photo, or are the sides of your print concave? I've not seen that before. That could account for the tight fit. My TPU95a covers have all been nice and straight. I wonder if that is a settings or speed issue. I typically print TPU very slow, like 30-50 mm/s maximum. You can speed things up a bit by using a .24 or .28 layer height, or even a 0.6mm nozzle at .3mm layers. The hole positions look good. The design intent was to have the hole above the low parts of the shade leaves.

Please let me know how it works as I don't have the WWL-1 to test. The one question is if the bungee holes are properly positioned. You can always punch new holes if they don't fit. If they need to be moved send me some details so I can fix it.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2391039-universal-dome-port-cap Added a model for the WWL-1 port. This will not fit on the WWL-C, which has an integrated float making it taller.

I can add the WWL to my existing shared model. Check again later today. However, based on several requests, i am going to try to make a WWL-1 style spring latch hard cover. For both WWL and 140mm Nauticam ports. Older 140mm ports don't have the notches inside the shade (the new Sony does) so it may also include a new shade.

What's the challenge with the strobe position? I just move them out or up or back & pointing inwards if you can't get them close.

One of my buddies was just diving with the main Inon dude last night. I will ask him to follow up about service going forward. He was shooting with the Inon 360s and hope to get a report on first impressions.

Gonna question your statement on Inon service. I had one of my Inon 330's repaired by their service operation. The power switches on the 330 were a common failure point after enough time. I had to send it to Reef Photo in 2022. They sent it on the Inon in Japan. They ended up replacing the electonics and flash tube for $450. Basically a brand new strobe in the original case.

There is always the Dremel Tool! Let me know if you need a custom extension.

This is an interesting thought. I would curious to see if there is a real-world impact from using the best size rather than best available from Nauticam. I may try your suggestion for the 8-15 + 1.4tc. Lets get more domes and the n100 housing in the tool so we can see more options.

Nauticam 140mm Nauticam 8.5" Zen 170mm

I will image my domes today.