Dave_Hicks

This is why I just use PTFE (white) Tribolube lubricant for 100% of my camera gear. As you say you can't use silicon grease on silicone o-rings. It will make them swell up, fail, and flood your gear eventually. So I just never use silicone lube on cameras. A 2oz tube of PTFE Tribolube costs about $60-$80 and will last for many years and 100's of uses a tiny dab at a time. And it will work fine on Silicone o-rings, Buna Rubber, or EDPM rings. As best I can tell it is identical to what Nauticam supplies for their silicone o-rings.

I think he edited the post and it now has PNGs.

Can't see your pics. HEIC photos don't render on anything but an Iphone. My backup focus light is a Kraken 1500 I think, but uses a smaller 18650 cell. I've tried to standardize every light I have using 21700's to make travel and charging easier and run time is a lot better.

This is the reason I use a very simple single button focus light. I don't like the two button models that require two hands or any multi click arithmetic to change modes. My current OrcaTorch v710-2 cycles high, low, red, blue, off. No auto-off. Works great, wide beam, long run time on low, and i swivel it pointing up when not needed for snooting or shooting another diver portrait.

Probably about 1/4 power, level 2 on the dial. Here is one of a group of striped nudis (8-10cm each) devouring a Sea Pen. Shot with the curved port 60mm @ f14. Level 2 or 2.5 on the Maxis, using reduction rings.

Are you using any sort of VPN? Sometimes these can cause odd issues due to filtering that takes place on the web server or CDN middleman.

Not important. Mostly *. Unless shooting a very slow exposure or very high ISO. It would be very exceptional for the wide angle, low powered spotting beam to to show in an image. * A tight beam high intensity light might break through, but that would be a flashlight, not the configuration of a focus light.

Backscatter Atom Strobe to HF-1 Accessory Adapterhttps://makerworld.com/en/models/3178015-atom-strobe-to-hf-1-accessory-adapter Use HF-1 filters and the OS-3 snoot on your Atom StrobeThis useful adapter connects to the bayonet mount on your Atom strobe and allows HF-1 accessories to be attached. Use your diffusors or even the fantastic OS-3 snoot on the Atom strobe. Leverage your investment in HF-1 accessories to the Atom. The OS-3 snoot in particular is very useful. The smaller OS-2 Atom snoot is a compact solution, but the OS-3 is much better with ability to work with larger subjects. The power of the Atom is very effective with the OS-3. Related Models: Snoot Adapter OS-1 to Atom StrobeRetra ←→ HF-1 AccessoryAdaptersUnderwater Photography ModelsScuba Models

Sharing a new gear for the Nikon z105mm lens. Someone had a request for this gear so I designed and printed it for them. https://makerworld.com/en/models/3173526-focus-gear-for-nikon-z105mm-in-nauticam-housings

I suggest getting both! These are both really great lens setups. While there is some overlap in range they both have unique properties and use cases. With the 8-15 under a 140mm dome, there size is also fairly similar. The WWL-C with 24-50 is a great all around setup. Many divers would be happy with this as their only lens. It handles standard wide angle down to near-macro subjects. Very versatile and high quality. (don't consider the 24-50 without the WWL-C) It is also easy to shoot and master. The 8-15 fisheye and 140mm dome are possibly the highest quality image you can get in a wide angle. However it is more difficult to shoot and light your subjects effectively. It can shoot an entire Humpback Whale from 3 feet range, or a 3 inch fish from Zero inch ranges. Extremely wide to Close Focus Wide Angle small subjects. This is a more expensive lens and will take some learning, large strobes, and investment of time to master.

My Nauticam trigger also works fine. It is just very basic and does not support key features like Rear curtain or HSS. Combined with random sync/preflash compatibility issues I think there are better options.

FYI - The Turtle Manual trigger is about $150 less if you don't need TTL and I and I confirm it works. Support HSS / Rear Curtain / Rapid Fire. It's also a bit more portable and not a fixed design for a specific housing. https://www.backscatter.com/TRT-i-Turtle-SMART-3-MANUAL-Trigger-for-Nikon-Mirrorless-DSLR-Cameras?custcol32=2

This is the "good" version of the Nauticam trigger. It's seemingly the same as yours by the numbers. However I am not sure the hardware tells the full tale, there may be a firmware component as well. There seems to be only one IC on this circuit board, and I have no idea if it is programable.

I made some of the original post about this issue with the Nauticam trigger. I will check my trigger details shortly and share that info. However: Does it matter? I always take a few sanity shots when i turn on my rig to test strobe firing, lens cap test 😉, etc. This is when learning components do their learning. Your issue might well be considered by design. Get a better trigger. I recently got a manual i-Turtle3 trigger wlthat supports HSS and Rear Curtain, which the (frankly crap) Nauticam trigger does not support. The Underwater Light and Magic trigger would be another good option. I suggest testing shooting 3fps for about 10 frames at low power. This was the fatal issue that i had with the Nauticam trigger, no work arounds.

Do you have a diffusor?