Dave_Hicks

The sync issue i had with backscatter was intermittent. It worked until it didn't and typically continued to fail for the rest of the session. I believe there was a "learning" issue where the strobe used logic to determine preflash and this was not effective.

Yes, I have seen this problem. More than likely this is a Synchronization problem. The issue will exist somewhere between your flash trigger and strobe. What exactly are the brand/model of strobes and flash trigger? I had problems with the Backscatter MF2 not syncing with some Nauticam flash triggers. They have updated the strobes to solve the problem and replaced my strobe with one that works.

Welcome from another Seattle CCR diver, but its Nikon for me.

Thanks! I'll be diving Redondo tonight around 6-6:30pm if you care to join.

Clockwise: Pacific red octopus (Octopus rubescens) Deep Blade Shrimp (Spirontocaris prionota) Pacific Spiny Lumpsucker (Eumicrotremus orbis) Red Rock Crab with eggs (Cancer productus) Shot with a Nikon Z8, 105mm and +5 SubSea diopter, Backscatter MF-2 snoot strobe + Inon 330 fill strobe

Very cool! Just downloaded and installed. Now I have more manuals to read!

As I am rarely diving and taking pictures of large white walls, I think I would go with the first setup. No diffuser. You lose a lot of power with the diffuser for what? Slightly smoother light coverage? I don't see how that will have a significant impact on real world, messy organic scenery.

I just finished my Lensbaby Focus gear. It took 4 parts, but it works great. The lens is very simple and does NOT support autofocus or aperture control from the camera. Entirely manual. I made it for a friend that likes to experiment with these creative lenses. Spacer to sit under the gear and raise it to the level of the Housing's cog. Gear with slots to engage the collar and turn the gear. Slides over the collar and supports the telescoping lens. TPU sleeve to grip the lens Collar with pegs to engage with the gear cylinder

I see. The beauty of 3d printing is you can just make two gears! But sure, less stuff to carry around.

What are the vertical bolts for? Assume you have to align the gear so it does not turn through the tightening flanges?

I am making a focus gear now for a Lensbaby 56mm lens. The entire barrel of the lens telescopes, so multiple parts are needed. The gear has to float free and sit on top of a spacer. The gear needs to have slots that mate with pegs fixed to the collar tight on the lens. Pretty complicated.

Here are a couple of photos from the Z8 + WWL-C for example. Taken on yesterday's dive to Saltwater State Park south of Seattle. These are not the most interesting photos ever, but they show some good detail at both Wide and Zoom ends of the range. The 24-50mm lens results in an 81-130mm equivalent behind the port. Wide: (a very pregnant rockfish - there is much less distortion in the upper left corner than a 16-35, closer to a good fisheye combo) Zoom: (Giant Pacific Octopus tentacle - Corners still pretty good, fantastic detail in the suckers.)

The Z8+housing is a couple of ounces heavier, so nearly the same. However, the full Z8 rig with a WWL-C is a lot lighter and more compact than the D850 with a 16-35 and 8.5" dome with its big 70mm extension ring.

I don't know if n100 gears are the same diameter as n120. But all the gears on a type are identical. The hard part is getting the cylinders to precisely hug the lens. I used a two part solution with a tpu rubber sleeve that the gear cylinder tightly slips onto.

I am currently transitioning from a D850 to the Z8, both in Nauticam housings. I've had the Z8 a couple of months now, but just got the new housing a couple of weeks ago. Mostly it's all about learning the new focusing modes and the EVF with the Z8. A lot of the shooting is similar to the D850. The autofocus improvements and being able to both shoot and preview the shot without moving away from the EVF are the biggest changes. One of my goals with getting the Z8 was the ability to use a WWL-C wet lens, which I dove with today for the first time. I've not even had time to review the photos yet, but it was very nice ergonomically. A compact and lightweight setup compared to a 16-35 in a big dome, and better quality as well. More on this after I've used it a few more times. I don't expect to see "improved" images out of the Z8, but taking advantage of the capabilities of the mirrorless tech and lasted electronics has been very satisfying so far. I'll also be using the Z8 for wildlife photography about water, and there are (maybed even bigger) advances in that scenario.

Someone listed a pair of Inon330's (type2) for $1000 over on ScubaBoard. For Sale - Inon Z330 (Type II) Strobe Light (x2) | ScubaBoard

Welcome to Waterpixels! Always nice to see another Seattle diver!

I shot this finger tip sized grunt sculpin last night with my Z8 and 105/+5 diopter combo last night. No trouble at all and i didn't lose my lunch in the process!

Omg! Chromatic aberration! Run, fast. I've just got a Z8 and have been using my old Nauticam 45 with it. The viewfinder is set to the smaller setting which seems adequate to get the full field of the viewfinder in the eyepiece. If the is any chromatic aberration it is confined to the periphery. I didn't notice anything so it must be subtle. I don't doubt that the new model is likely better. I could afford to buy it if i wanted to, but i just don't see how it is necessary or would make a tangible improvement. If i find someone else using one with the Z8 i will compare. Until then i am happy with the old viewfinder.

Thats a very cool project! Really ambitious and well thought. I'd love to see some images from the snoot. What did you do to make sure the watertight compartments stay dry at depth? I've experimented with some 3d-printed camera arm floats and found this difficult without making it too heavy. An epoxy coating was suggested but I have not tried that yet.

Lots of great info and pictures, but all I could think about where did he get a MousePad (or whatever it is) with both Whale Sharks AND Kangaroos! Then I saw the Quantas logo on it... 🙂

On page 718 of the manual. 😉

Just bite the bullet on the Nauticam housing. You will sell your old Nauticam housing before long and offset some of the cost. I would put a pause on selling your existing strobes as that is just another money sink for marginal gain. Slowly move toward Z lenses, but there is no rush. Your old lenses and port will work fine with a Nauticam Z8. I don't recall if you had a 45deg viewfinder, but the old version of that will work too. You don't need the new $1,700 version. Just set the Z8 EVF to use the (slightly 10-20%) smaller setting instead of standard. Works great for me.

It looks great! Nice detail in the eyeballs, great colors too. I might try to make it a bit darker with greater use of shadows. Perhaps with a fine point snoot to restrict the light to the eyes and feelers, less on the carapace. Still light the eyeballs for the great color. Backlighting with a fill flash and snooted from the side might be nice.

Nauticam Zoom Gear for Nikon 24-50mm Z lens Typically paired with the Nauticam WWL-C wet wide-angle lens. I've posted a Thingiverse project for a Nikon 24-50mm Z lens zoom gear, for use with a Nauticam housing. Tested in a Nauticam Z8 housing but should work for any similar Nauticam 120 port sized housing. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6460615