Davide DB

Click the CC icon located at the bottom right corner of the video player. A red line will appear below the icon when subtitles are active. Click the gear icon right next to the CC button to open the settings menu. Click on Subtitles/CC. Check if English is available in the list. If it is, click it to activate manual subtitles. If English is not on the list, click on Auto-translate and scroll down to select English.

The university has finally published the full documentary on their YouTube channel titled "Inhabited Deserts - a journey through grains of sand", released today, April 8, 2026. The script isn't that of a true documentary, but rather a more scientific format, as specifically requested by the client. The documentary lasts about 25 minutes and focuses on the biodiversity of sandy seabeds, which are often underestimated and considered desert-like, but are actually rich in life and fundamental for the recycling of organic matter. Here are some interesting points covered in the video: Hidden Biodiversity: It explores the world of meiofauna (microscopic organisms living between the grains) and "architects" like Lanice conchilega and Sabellaria, which build incredible structures by cementing sand together. The Role of Crustaceans: Much space is given to hermit crabs and crabs, described as tireless scavengers that ensure the seabed remains clean. Survival Strategies: It shows how bivalves, irregular sea urchins, and starfish have perfectly adapted to digging and living beneath the surface. Nurseries and Conservation: The video highlights how these seabeds are vital nursery areas for many species (such as cuttlefish) and issues a plea regarding the fragility of these balances in the face of human impact. You can watch it here and by fiddling with the YouTube settings, you can get English subtitles

Same situation here: drysuit, dry gloves, and even rebreather and stages. Sorry in advance if I say things you already know. I haven't re-read the old thread, but I remember some controversy 😉 The scooter is a very powerful tool, but I see it being used quite carelessly compared to other equipment, without giving it proper importance or understanding the dangers. I have witnessed several accidents caused by improper management of it. I have used the DVP only for videos, although I have friends who also use it for photos but only wide-angle with a fisheye, and in that case, let's say you don't need to aim with precision. Still shooting wide, my friends orient the camera longitudinal to the scooter and hold the handles without detaching it from the scooter. But if you have to photograph a fish and frame it with precision, the best thing is to detach the camera. And here we come to the different types of mounts on the market that can make a difference. Rule #1: scooter and camera must be neutral or balanced individually. The scooter must be neutral or, better yet, slightly positive by a few grams. The camera, lights/strobes assembly must be practically neutral. In this way, if you detach the two things, both will stay right there without causing problems and the clipping and unclipping operations will be easier. Besides detaching the camera to take photos, also keep in mind a scenario where you have to remove it for an emergency or something else... Rule #2: This should come directly from using the scooter safely. If you let go of the scooter handle/controls because you are doing something else, you must never leave it to its own and you must always disconnect the power. All modern scooters have an ON/OFF knob. A scooter left free (and negative) causes huge damage to the surrounding environment and, via the tow cord, can get snagged on rocks, corals, and algae or simply to your gear in a part you can't reach! (Murphy's Law). A classic scenario in current is the cord or a piece of coral activating the trigger, causing the scooter to take off on its own without control, dragging you along. It sounds like science fiction, but I have seen it happen several times. Or, in an attempt to grab it, you accidentally pull the trigger while your hand is inside the propeller. Therefore, while doing other things, the scooter is turned off (#1) and clipped to yourself (#2). It could seems excessive but after few time it becomes muscle memory. This is why a double-ender is usually placed on a bungee on the nose and clipped to a D-ring within reach. Following these two simple rules, now let's move on to the mounts. Let's just say that all DPV mounts have one thing in common: they are crazy expensive! For many years I used the cheapest one of all (the same linked by @Raph ) and I would recommend it to you provided that you never have to detach the camera from the mount. So that is not your case. The Yellow Diving mount consists of two parts that fit together perfectly but remain joined by three screws at 120°. If you don't tighten them, the camera can even rotate without detaching from the mount. Joining the two pieces in the water is not impossible but it's quite annoying. On the surface, if the sea is calm, it requires someone's help. In recent years I have been using the Suex mount. It has the advantage that the insert fixed to the camera fits smoothly into the part on the scooter and has a quick-release mechanism that allows you, with a bit of practice, to do everything with one hand. With this mount, you can easily attach and detach the camera during the dive. It also has a safety screw that allows you to lock everything in place. The Yellow Diving mount comes without holes for the camera (wise choice) The Suex has a single hole. I don't know about others. In any case, a single hole is absolutely no good. You need two. No matter how much you tighten it, it unscrews in an instant underwater. ATM I don't have photos of my mount, Let me know if you need other info or photos. Ciao

Davinci Resolve Free. https://waterpixels.net/forums/topic/3428-editing-software-davinci-resolve-and-pinnacle-studio/#findComment-24011 As I already wrote. This is an example that shows you the tool and how it works. You don't need a wb card underwater, just pick whatever you have whitish in your photo or even neutral gray and start from there. I used Avid, Edius, Final Cut and all of them work the same.

An update to this old topic A trend that has been spreading in recent years among teenagers and twenty-somethings is taking photographs that look like they were shot with disposable cameras or digital cameras from the early 2000s, slightly blurry and overexposed. To achieve that effect, many use actual compact digital cameras from those years, bought second-hand or pulled out of their parents' drawers. The point is not to take beautiful photos, since smartphones do it much better, but to give a different and stronger meaning to individual shots, in times when it is normal to take dozens of them for a single moment and then forget them in the phone memory. Companies are also adapting to this demand by re-releasing old models or creating new ones that meet these characteristics. Among these, a digital camera that is having particular success – precisely because it takes grainy photos with a retro effect – is the Kodak Charmera. The Charmera is inspired by a historic Kodak camera: the Fling, the company's first disposable produced in 1987. Unlike the Fling, however, the Charmera is digital. It is a tiny camera: just under six centimeters long and about two and a half high, it fits in the palm of a hand and weighs only 30 grams. It is sold with a keychain hook because, due to its extremely small size, it can be easily hung on a set of keys or clipped to a bag or belt loop. The name Charmera is in fact the result of combining the words charm, meaning those little objects hung on accessories and devices to decorate them, and camera. Compact ShooterKodak Charmera Toy Camera Review - Retro charm but not fo...It’s tiny, it’s cute, it’s got a cool retro design, it looks like a 110 film pocket camera from the […]

Fiji cruise ship runs aground after hitting reef near 'Ca...Thirty passengers have reportedly been rescued after a cruise ship ran aground on a reef near the island where the film Cast Away was shot.

Hi brightnight, we have this old thread. You can do both. It depends on your subjects and dive scenarios. Explain to me better what you had in mind. Video or photos? What use do you want to make of them?

Hi Alex, Nicely shot and edited as usual. Tell us more about technique used: ambient light, lights, blue filters? Ciao

Hi Wyvern, Welcome aboard! We look forward to knowing about your software. Just post about it. Regarding the location issue we will investigate ASAP. Ciao

I haven't updated the initial post in a while. Now I should have included all the projects you've posted. Thank you all from the bottom of my heart for this project!

Hi Paul, Welcome aboard! You are in the right place. We are professional consultants in the art of burning through cash and liquidating bank accounts 😁

I have exactlythat particular bag. Very tough but despite putting a lot of care into rinsing and lubricating it, the zippercorroded after just one trip. The zipper is plastic but the slider is made of some shitty aluminum alloy.

You don't need a white card. That's an example that basically shows you the tool. You just pick up a whitish area or a Grey neutral area.

I thought to take some screenshot then I realized that it's full of tutorial out there...

Hi Hubert, Welcome aboard! Ciao