Nemrod

I do not know. I do not see any difference in my limited trials turning that power knob in HSS using the Retra board switch position. I do see that the Backscatter HF-1 only has one power setting in HSS and I suspect the same here with the Apollo S, excerpt from HF-1 manual attached. I have the Apollo manual and I do not see this addressed therein. I think I am beginning to understand HSS.

The reason I am asking about power control in HSS is that I do not see any change between full and minimum settings. From that I concluded that the power knob is not functional in HSS mode on the Apollo S strobe? In a couple of weeks I can get in the water and play with HSS. Thanks.

Thanks, I am just going to try it in a couple of weeks in Roatan and see what goes. I am using (borrowing) Apollo S strobes. They are impressive kit for sure. How did you control the Apollo S strobe output in HSS?

I always liked OM cameras but in film days I had the Nikon F and FMII Titanium instead because they just fit my hands better and these days it is Sony and Canon. Is the OM really that much smaller than a Sony or Canon APS camera? Not really comparing them side by side and now the new Sony FF cameras are awfully small as well. One thing for the OM was that the cameras were/are rugged and weather resistant. The little consumer level Canons, like my EOS R50, are beautiful little cameras but they feel plasticky and are not ruggedized for heavy outdoors use. My Sony A6400 at least has some weather and dust sealing though not awfully inspiring.

I second this, Nauticam does have an extension and it works with both generations of bayonets. Also, I tether my WWL-1 to the housing should I drop it.

Hah! Maybe he can reprogram my trigger board ;). Please, I am not being serious, I would not expect to be able to reprogram an old board :).

LOL, please, nobody take this as a complaint on anything, camera, board, strobes. I am just trying to work with what I have. I have a five years old Sony A6400 in a NA-6400 Nauticam housing with a UWT board purchased at the same time and the only position on the switch board that does HSS is the one designated for Retra strobes. I have Marelux strobes available for my use and they have HSS capability. I am not going to purchase another $$ expensive board that has other HSS support. I do not think I can afford Retra strobes. Therefore I was playing with the HSS Retra board position with the Marelux strobes in HSS mode. What I have found and currently think is with very limited use on my table and will not be able to verify further until I can get in the water (so as not to damage these super nice Marelux strobes :). I am using the UWT board in the Retra position. I do seem to get sync, at least to 1/500 above which I think I see a band or dark top edge on the test image. I do not think the power knob is functional in HSS mode or TTL mode. The strobe power knob is functional in Manual non HSS mode. The Sony A6400 seems capable of controlling the Marelux strobes in TTL mode and I can vary strobe power via the camera flash exposure compensation but the Retra HSS (?being manual only?) I cannot control output either on the strobe or in the camera menu. I think this would be similar to the HF-1 having the same issues. (Yes Backscatter has a HF-1 specific trigger which I am not going to purchase and I am using Marelux strobes for the moment). I assume, perhaps wrongly, that current UWT and other triggers do have positions for Marelux, BS HF-1 and other similar strobes in addition to the Retra and support HSS function and strobe output if only via the camera?

Because many folks shoot TTL and it is useful sometimes if not all the time :). And because as discussed here, the HSS function with the HF1 (and possibly Marelux and others?) do not allow power adjustment via the power knob on the strobe in HSS or TTL ( @ChipBPhoto )? If that is true (?) then there is no way to control output in manual. But one could control output via the camera strobe exposure compensation if shooting in TTL. That is more of a question than a statement. As well, many Sony cameras do not have a preflash cancel or a flash manual mode, they always fire a pre-flash. In manual strobe mode the strobe must be configured to ignore the preflash. Or use the preflash and run TTL. Or use a trigger like the UWT that has a manual position that via board software ignores the Sony preflash (0 on my board).

Probably misdirecting my thread as I oft do others, my apology in advance. But, this is kind of part of what I am asking. Why do you have to change triggers? The Retra strobe HSS function is manual exposure only? Are there any strobes and cameras that can perform HSS strobe in TTL? And thus use the internal camera strobe exposure compensation to control the strobe, where for example, the HF-1 (and possibly the Marelux?) have not functionality for exposure control on the strobe power knob in HSS and possibly in TTL? I am half way smart technically, and apparently some of this is more than half way confusing, to me :(. I am I suppose making this too broad. But feel free to discuss manual/auto TTL :) with popular strobes. (I feel you on the Inon, I give up. And since I have a new set of S220 strobes, I want to supplement the S220s with something GN36+ for big animals and reef scenics). HSS is not a requirement. I have three working camera rigs and only one is HSS capable, my NA6400, the NA-R50 is not and neither is my little Canon/FIX S90.)

I guess my question is, congealed down, what differs between HSS on a Marelux or HF1 or any other HSS capable strobe that is different from a Retra strobe such that using the Retra position on the UWT board (that does not have a HF1 or Marelux position) would not work and sync? I can guess that the output profile/curve is different but that should affect TTL only and the HSS as confirmed by Tim is manual. Is it the number of flashes or the sequence of flashes that may differ between a Marelux HSS, HF-1 HSS and Retra HSS? That could explain why I might be seeing a dark band (unconfirmed at this point) above 1/500. I am not complaining about the trigger or the strobes, I am trying to understand how it works and why different brand specific profiles are needed on the trigger?

Thanks for confirming manual, that is what I thought but the instructions for the board are sometimes confusing. My UWT board has no setting for Marelux HSS. The only setting that supports the HSS is the Retra setting. The way my board works (?) is that when the A6400 camera shutter speed exceeds the native sync of 1/160 it goes to HSS mode. Yes, at that point the strobe must be selected then to HSS, this is a switch position on the Marelux. I understand the strobe must be set to HSS. Five years ago when I bought the NA6400 and the UWT board the Marelux did not exist ;). I am just trying to make do with what I have and play with HSS on a five year old rig for which I do not want to spend $$ on yet another trigger. I do seem to be getting sync but I do not want to work the strobes but a few shots on my kitchen table. I think I am seeing a dark top above 1/500. I am just going to have to get it in the water. I do not want to risk damage to the strobes dry firing enough to prove or disprove functionality of the Retra board setting with the Marelux set to HSS. :) A curious thing, leaving HSS behind just for a moment, UWT board set to 0 (position for manual), by turning my A6400 off, turning it back on and then selecting WL off and set shutter speed to 1/160 and then selecting WL to on the shutter then defaults to 1/200 and syncs just fine and it sticks even if I turn the camera off and back on. But, if I change the shutter speed to another value my maximum speed with flash is then only 1/125 (yep, not 1/160), so I have to reboot, select WL off, set shutter speed to 1/160 and then go WL to on and voila, 1/200. Weird but useful to help control bright background, gains about a 1/3 stop I guess. I do not know if that little bit of extra shutter speed trick works with other Sony cameras and the UWT board but it does with mine. And yes, the photo data confirms 1/200 speed. James

My NA6400 is equipped with the UWT board that has the Retra strobe with HSS selected at position 9 (I think it is from memory). But, I am (wanting to) shooting a Marelux Apollo with HSS. My initial experiment seems to indicate I am getting sync at least to 1/500. I really do not understand the UWT board in regards HSS. I assume it is manual exposure when using HSS? I have an admitted knowledge gap here, actually, it is a chasm.

I have been using on loan, pool only thus far, the Marelux Apollo S. The build quality is excellent, very compact for the power output (GN36) and they have a nice 110 degree angle without diffusers, more with installed. They use flat top high current 18650 cells and just go and go and recycle fast. And the price is competitive. Might be a consideration.

A few more. Shooting dual S220 strobes, WWL-1.

A few sample shots from Cozumel. Just straight from camera jpegs.

I have had this inconsistency of similar nature with my A6400 and two UWT triggers. Never could find a reason.

My little Canon S90 (FIX aluminum housing, pre-Nauticam) will sync at speeds up to 1/2000. Still going strong.

Such a camera has a leaf or iris shutter and therefore has no limitation on X-sync speed.

That really is not compact camera. It is a fixed lens camera much like old film range finder types. It needs to have a short range 24-75mm zoom lens if fixed. None of it matters as there will likely not be a housing for it and combined with a housing it is too much money. Compact at least to me implies a sub M4:3 sensor, like the RX or G series or the old Canon S series. Not just the external size. I guess there might be others but right now the only three compact sensor cameras that UW housings are available for are the OM TG, Canon G and Sony RX?

Chris, I have a Nauticam NA-6400 (Sony). That is an A6400 crop sensor camera. I recently acquired, additionally, a new Nauticam NA-R50 (Canon). Either camera fits in the case with most accessories. I mostly shoot a CMC lenses for macro and the WWL rides on my housing 90% of the time. I put the arms in my checked luggage. I just ordered a new TrekPac kit for my 1535 Air in hopes of getting more in the case and better fitting either housing. The pluck foam just uses up too much useful space. Case depth is critical, the 1535 is just deep enough to take the housing with the handles and balls attached. Otherwise things start having to come apart or lay the housing over which consumes more space. I am actually in Cozumel now and rather than the 1535 I used a small sub carry-on sized roller bag for the NA-R50 with two strobes, CMC lenses and batteries etc. The WWL and arms went checked.

Chris, no, that orange case is a Pelican Air 1535 carry on size case.

The WWL-1 with the OE foam collar is negative but on either my NA-6400 or my NA-R50 the overall balance is near perfect. I have both set slightly negative using two Nauticam 70X800 float arms and two more 8 inch arms with the standard Stix floats now replaced by some Amazon arms I found that are prettier but work no better. My float collar was getting a little buggered up, cosmetics only, so I refinished and painted with PlastiDip. So far so good. I have a spare float collar should I ever wear this one out. I have had it to over 130 feet, even 150 feet more than once with no deleterious effects. I use a Stix buoyancy collar on my Canon/FIX90 rig with the old Inon WAL lens with dome, a heavy chunk without.

The metering would be the same as would occur in Tv or Av? But those would be fixed so it is the ISO that is allowed to float if Auto ISO selected? Really, I have no idea, thus asking you folks with more camera knowledge?

I looked around and perhaps missed it but does anyone shoot manual camera and manual strobes but use Auto ISO? Same, manual camera settings, Auto ISO but with sTTL?

The D2000 does not work any differently than a S220, D200 or other Inon strobe. It also has an external auto mode they do not have. You can purchase a replacement magnet. Newer Inon strobes use a switch to select preflash, no preflash. Preflash is needed for sTTL. The D2000 uses a magnet to activate (or not) the preflash selector switch. The sTTL mode automatically reverts to preflash expected. Manual strobe mode you will need to use the magnet to select preflash/no preflash. Sony cameras are weird, not sure about the A7 but there is no way to cancel preflash on my A6400 except via the UWT board and the #0 board switch selection.