RomiK

I dunno, I've found using rectilinear 14/1.8 challenging UW so 11mm the corners will stretch a lot. And not to put a cold water on this rumour but isn't R7 ii crop camera also coming out with that range perhaps more fitting for it... 😉

They have them made to specs in literally milimeter increments for each housing... that's why...

I've found housing ok. No problem with fogging, good response. Stiching glitches on occasion, definitely avoiding stitch over the subject. So good overall. Just the camera isn't there yet for UW. I also got Osmo360 so waiting for housing for this one...

Hi Davide, it's an export from numbers and has no links, yours does... The flip button is important when shooting with macro 90mm and EMWL when I don't want to use relay lens. The relay lens deteriorate image quality, takes off the light and contribute to even more color cast. And also the whole setup is smaller with no relay. My EMWL is 130 and so when I take it off the housing I still have standard narrow macro 90mm . But no relay lens means the image is flipped. So I need to flip it. And last thing I want to do underwater is to go through menus. And with Nauticam solution and shinobi just forget it. There is no access to settings while Shinobi is in housing. monitors.xlsx

It's tough to suggest as there are various criteria more or less important to anyone. Like do you shoot video? HDR? Need to switch quickly foto/video? Battery life? I shoot A1 and need all of the above so it's really tough and up until now the only solution was $5k+ Nauticam/SmallHD Ultra5. Now there are some viable options in $1k range although more or less bricks. I went Shinobi/Nauticam route as Ultra5 wasn't available at the time. If I accept shooting stills in Slog3 PP I can switch fast. Just disregard ISO reading, it's meaningless on A1 as 100000 in Slog3 is about the same as 10000 with PP off as far as noise goes. I did found some differences in color rendition in shadows topside at 800% but in real world not much to see. But ultimately I will switch as soon as I find something. New Weefine 5Pro looks nice but no HDR seems to me. Also a big question mark about battery life. These nits will consume quite a bit and it only has 5000mA battery. Will not last long and changing batteries between the dives is no highlight... Personally I think 1000 HDR nits on Shinobi is very sufficient and 1500 will be even better. But no need to go higher as the battery life will suffer. I am quite glad Shinobi sips the power and NPF970 lasts whole day 4 dives on a live aboard and then some. The same will be for Shimbol, also HDR with good YouTube reviews. But the SeaFrog housing has truly idiotic cable positioning. If only there would be an L shaped Out. So I would recommend Shinobi and Seafrogs for battery life, buoyancy and screen qualities. Fotocore MR6 and MR5.5 seems to check all/most boxes but don't know about cables qualities. But there is access to all settings underwater at least. Why flip is important to me - so I can use EMWL without relay. Why is HDR important to me - because UW videos look 10x better in HDR on good screens and with overexposing the log you won't see much highlights even on 3000 nits monitor. Without HDR tone mapping highlights will turn to big mess and 709 zebra will not help and you shoot blind. I put some updated table to ultimate monitor thread for reference and inspiration. Cheers.

Great job on the table, love this! 👏 As more information will come along we could perhaps add some other vital information such as HDR mapping, whether it allows Flip image and Lut On/Off underwater and one button shortcuts for these. And also if available which underlying monitor is used in custom enclosures - like Fotocore MR6 includes Feelworld LUT6 older UI version. I took a liberty in demo of this addition and added information known to me - some from product review and some from manuals.

it perhaps used to be... now with all these easy money made on internet and influencing and all it became a trendy destination it seems to me. The bar for diving abilities is so low anyone is coming and if there is current situation they just skip the dive... The diving travel - safaris - are doing just fine as far ecosystem as the guides are doing their best but off course there are many many more surface based activities and day travels which put more stress on the environment but still it's nothing like and far far from the hotspots around the world.

It's totally worth it no matter circumstances and conditions. It's pretty much guaranteed you will get a chance to photograph Galapagos and hammerheads, eagle rays, jacks bowls, sea lions, penguins and iguanas and if you ask nicely 😅you might score whale shark and mola. Just go... 😁

I shoot 120 - when I have reason see below :-) and when water is not too warm 🙈. At 25C it’s fine but I tried to do fuvamullah tiger sharks feeding and both A1 and DJI action 4 were overheating some minutes into the dive at 30C. And once they get hot they not cool down reasonably quickly 🤨. I guess you have Sony (from 24 to 60 🤣) so we in the same boat. I too would prefer 30 mainly for shutter speed and light but no bueno… so I do 60. To try to answer the choppiness - I found 24 is butter smooth when the camera is stationary. As soon as there is panning or flyby movement the 24 gets awful chops. Much worse than skipping frames when putting 60p to 30p timeline. So that’s that. Here is my reason to shoot 120 on occasion :-)

Funny, I too was asking myself this very question! However from some reason it seems to be a thing (50hz, not PAL) as I do not know why Osmo360 ends at 8k50 and not 8k60 - worldwide...

This is very much true, more so in bad lighting environment but then even custom WB on a full frame ambient footage won't do wonders as for red. See below for a good light environment sample. This is also very much true. However the big Q is a kind of footage achievable in poor light environment with any sensor and whether further light penalty stemming from use of red filter is beneficial for such footage overall. Here again, in channel theory all very true except of 10bit importance compared with 8bit. 10bit will allow for some tweaks unavailable to 8bit footage and so the results may surpass footage taken with red filter because with decreasing light the action cam footage is getting mushy (especially in shadows) very quickly. Here is example I found from my recent Halhamera trip. I had my Action 4 Pro running as chase camera for when I took stills but it seems they were running simultaneously with A1 on video too :-) . The depth was 17 meters and the skies were not blue, it was off season Indonesia light overcast at around noon. First is screenshot of unprocessed footage side by side next is footage with tweaks and here is resulting video with settings in description:

Very thorough article 👌 it must have been quite an effort!💪 I would like to have this article extended - to discourage people from using filters especially on action cams and encourage spending their money for cameras with 10bit log profiles - all current models of DJI, GoPro and Insta360 have these. The problem with red filters is that contrary to popular opinion they DO NOT ADD red color. They BLOCK light other than red spectrum. So they take away light so much needed by 4k60 small sensor captures. Which means the footage will brake apart unless 3m under the surface (exaggeration :-) and overall spark is gone. And forget about HLG delivery right there. So I think it would be good to add workflow focusing on 10bit footage, HLG conversion and utilising HUE shift for added color. I found that 25ish degrees (FCPX color wheels) does wonders and doesn't skew colours too much. Perhaps some shift in Hue/Sat curves could be added if water color turns too aqua. Just my 2c... great article otherwise!

Very nice find David! It seems to check all the boxes except for image flip (for EMWL use without relay). This video shows user assignable features for custom buttons they allow to flip screen but its screen on control only it seems... Another wish would be whether it could accept Nauticam cable - I need L shaped output for my configuration.

ressurecting this thread as I am looking at this monitor now... tempting to replace my shinobi and spend only 1200 instead of 5000 for Ultra5. The game changer for me is 1) ability to turn on and off HDR/LUT processing underwater (shoot standard in picture mode, Slog3 in video and 2) rotate the picture for when I am underwater with EMWL without relay lens. These 2 are real sticking points for me. Buoyancy can be easily dealt with using back mounted float cut to dimension and required volume. The flat back is actually very good. As for battery charging inside - not a big deal. Looking at battery spec and consumption it is going to last easily whole day - 4 dives on a liveaboard - which is more then enough and this is the way I operate with Shinobi and NPF970 battery - charging overnight. Now if only there would be any feedback as to how reliable this monitor is.

I had the camera in on the way to Indonesia. 3 Flights, sometimes the housing was in overhead bin. And I then realised that the housing gets moved, gets touched, the levers got touched by forces not controlled by my fingers... Looking at the inside of housing there is like Swiss watch delicate mechanism, for operating buttons on camera. Get is twisted even by a fraction of a fraction of millimetre and then things won't operate or will by random. When there is nothing inside the outside forces don't matter as there is no resistance but when camera is in these pushbuttons and levers connections will get tired... So that's why.