RomiK

This may not be understandable at first but as someone who has to travel to dive i would say - save money and travel light. In my world it means get nauticam housing with 30mm port + WACP-C + new 105 macro + 100mm new macro lens + 28-60 for wacp-c + (perhaps) sony TC2x - and you will be set for foreseeable future for everything from lembeh creatures to big ocean stuff like Socorro mantas etc. For both photo and video. Just stay away from adapted stuff - looks nice on paper but in reality unless you have it lying around not worth the headache. Image shot with WACP-C at 60mm on A1 (yes its a crop but you have 50MP too so what...)

Thank you guys. Orcas are nicknamed as 'pandas of the sea' and it well describes them. They are completely harmless toward human being, they literally shove you away on their way to food. The bigger problem are humpbacks who always crash the party from down below - open their mouth, eat the ball, make the splash and the story start again :-). I happened to be in the splash zone of one of these and THAT's an adrenaline!🤣

1.1 crop A1 vs 1.5 crop A7R5 in 4k120?

We were supposed to finish the day. On the way back to the boat I saw some action across the bay about a mile away. Like geyzers popping up all over the place. I talked others to go to check this out and the rest is history. It was the most spectacular action of our trip and as the guides put it they've never seen anything like it in years. Never mind my battery was exhausted before three humpbacks decided to end the party and splash me away :-)

Although the Pro dome is much much better than original the x5 footage still isn't good for anything else than vertical socials IMO. There are stitching artifacts usually where it matters :-) and the quality in low light is still poor and mushy. Apart from stitching artifacts - dome reflections - for the documentation I would say yes but then it gets quite big that PRO dome and so It gets in the way... So I would stick to action cam as a B-roll or fun dive camera. Here is link to full frame footage scaled to 4k https://youtu.be/721F2hq9XoQ and here is a screen grab converted to jpeg, the HDR version looks better.

power bank! 👍

... or it is perhaps confirmation that extra 10mm in space between port glass and the lens won't matter (1.4x is 17.4mm while 2x is 27.2mm added length to the lens). Which means that using old port 105 with 30mm port extension might be feasible for new 100mm macro (?)

Awesome! I would be terrific - if you had time - if you could show us the differences on screen. It could be a room scene with window and something behind it (garden, tree, anything) and shot by iPhone in HDR (default) and posted to YouTube so it would show HDR mark after posted. So it would be HDR video. It could also help you to determine best practice while underwater. With my Shinobi I found PQ mapping having the most dynamic range but HLG mapping keeping screen brighter. On my Sony A1 that is. I will try to do something like that later to show example.

This is amazing! What size of battery can you fit in that housing? And Feelworld model?

Does this have HDR mapping in the menu? Which options and do they work? Thanks!

Yes! This is what I mean! What other options it shows under that HDR option beside 709 please?

Very nice! My goal was to place monitor a little away from me - also to access topside buttons easy - and being able to tilt but the fixed bracket has its own advantages. Does this Kraken has HDR PQ or HLG mapping of Slog3 signal available? What I don't like on Shinobi is inability to access settings underwater and what I do like is battery lasting for 6 dives at 1000nits and the HDR screen with that PQ option.

Sail! That! Exactly!🤣 If I may share my way dealing with overexposure... even though A1 has different sensor, also dual gain but maybe different... anyhow - I learned that ISO on A1 doesn't matter. Heck I can go 30000 and as long as I properly (over)expose I see no meaningful effect on noise. So I started to use ISO as gain and with shutter and aperture locked in I mapped (typically shutter) wheel to ISO. I display waveform on my monitor and push it to upper third as high as not to get cutoffs. Sometimes the overexposure is actually 3+ (!). On Nauticam housing that wheel is greatly available for thumb operation which helps me adjust 'gain' on the fly - like when following shark from deep blue to surface background. Not sure how this is going to work for A7S3 sensor but for both A7S3 and A1 all YouTubers were swearing by using base ISO - only for me to find out that it was utter bollock. At least for A1. And of course this wouldn't be possible without external monitor (with HDR conversion switched on). So cheers to sailors 😅

nicely done! we were on Calipso last September and it also was a blast. 3 whale sharks over at Darwin - or one three times on three dives 🤣 Out of curiosity - I see a lot of noise on your footage - especially in the blues. Were you overexposing at all? On my A1 I have to brutally overexpose log footage otherwise I get a lot of noise too. Glad to see somebody else is lugging monitor around too :-) mine is shinobi :-)

I assume you did MENU → (Setup) → [Power Setting Option] → [Auto Power OFF Temp.] and select [High] Not to worry, no damage possible Even then the camera produces a lot of heat at 4k100 and so trapped in housing in warm waters - like 28C+ - will cause it overheat. Yes, using external monitor helps but there is tradeoff in terms of size and travel weight. Still totally worth to me.