Chris Ross

It won't mount on the lens due to the protruding front element, the Kenko TCs are designed without this protruding element so they can be used on a wider range of lenses.

No worries, assume you have set the UWT board to mode 9 already. > Have you tried changing flash expsoure compensation from the camera at all? Try sending Pavel a PM he's quite helpful.

Nauticam clamps are good quality and a lot of people like the ULCS clamps as well.

The problem is it doesn't fit as it has an extension that sticks out: Others have proven the setup of sony 1.4x - metabones smart adapter - Canon 8-15 works. Maybe the Nikon Z 1.4x - FTZ adapter - Nikon fisheye will work?? If the nose of the 1.4x fits inside the FTZ adapter it has a chance.

The USB-C bulkhead is a good solution for charging without opening the case, needs a little care when opening to dry it off and needs somewhere dry to leave the camera on charge. There's a mini review here: If you are comfortable with electronics you could probably make one up from parts like this : https://core-electronics.com.au/polymer-lithium-ion-battery-2000mah-38459.html and this: https://core-electronics.com.au/dc-dc-usb-0-9v-5v-to-5v-dc-boost-step-up-power-supply-module.html and you would need to source an appropriate charger.

When you say it works with a godox flash you mean a godox in the camera hotshoe? The problem with the hotshoes on Sony flashes is the hotshoe connector which is on your flash trigger this one and it's the pins I have indicated that can have problems:

I started using the Canon 8-15 on my OM-1 using the metabones adapter and using the zoom control on the N85-N120 adapter with Wolfgang's adapter for the Nauticam zoom gear a while back now. It all works quite well, but I was never that happy using the zoom knob on the N85-N120 adapter, it always felt coggy and a little awkward to use, plus mine seemed to need inward pressure to avoid disengaging the gears. So looking at the housing and doing some measuring it seemed that I could get a 3D printed gear that would use the the housing zoom control. I adapted a file for a an N85 zoom gear and played around with a CAD program to get roughly where I needed things and contacted member Ross Gudgeon who does 3D printing ( @Gudge ) to ask his help fixing up the rather rough and printing a gear. On the second iteration I have one that works quite well.It takes a little fiddling getting mounted correctly but it's easy enough to do. There are tight clearances and a need to accommodate the lens release and the jog lever on the Metabones and the projecting "viewfinder" hump on the OM-1. I ended up grinding down the jog lever a touch as it was contacting the inside of the gear. End result a zoom gear that works nice and smoothly from the housing control knob. Some pics: You can see how tight it is getting the gear in place here: Tight clearance to the camera body: Thanks to Ross for helping out on this project!

The cap mount certainly looks like it would work, as long as you don't mind drilling into your dome shade. The M5 ball and a ball type go pro mount along with a clamp would allow you place the Go pro close to the axis of the lens by leaning the clamp over at 45° . If you want it taller or closer to centre you could use a long clamp and the height would be adjustable with either option.

Ok for the first circle UWT says you want Mode C. This is turning the dial to 5.6. If you get the blue light and the buzzer it has been changed. For the second circle UWT says you want factory default, which if you have not managed to set should be set. But otherwise follow the steps and select mode 10 - which is one on the dial. As I understand it if you already have to have the intensity dial set at the required setting then just hold the focus light button till the strobe responds. So for you in the first step you are already at 5.6 so leave it there and press the button till you get a response. In all cases if the strobe doesn't respond as indicated start again. You should get the blue light to indicate you are in DS-TTL setting and after setting light dial and holding you get the blue light and buzzer. For the second step it's the same except for the additional step of turning to RC mode. Note that you are setting it work with the UWT trigger - not setting it to work with Canon so you use the settings recommended by UWT. Give it a try and see how you go. To confirm TTL operation you can set camera to rear curtain sync, put camera in manual as low shutter speed like 1 second. Take an image you should see pre-flash at start of exposure and main flash at the end, This is only to test that you are getting pre flash and main flash.

First step is to observe the LEDs to see if they are flashing when you press the shutter button. Check that your hotshoe mount is seated properly as well. Closely inspect the hotshoe, on Sony they have rather fine pins that are easily damaged, see if one of them is bent. Which model do you have the universal with the plug-in LEDs or the Nauticam model? If it's the universal one have you tried swapping between the single and double LED cables? Have you tried it with wireless mode on and off?

Interesting that Nauticam have omitted the cold shoe and M10 mounting points, which could have been used to mount something. You could try one of these to replace one of the ball mounts on your handle: https://www.nauticam.com/collections/mirrorless-housing-accessories/products/accessory-mounting-base-for-handle-with-screws Then add a low profile go pro mount to that.

No problem, good you figured it out. It does appear that the FCP imparts a slight green cast, your strong green cast could be fluorescent lighting?

The new rules don't seem too onerous, just a ziplock for powerbanks and batteries in cases or bags. Though the practicality of banning them from the overhead compartments is questionable,other than that don't use powerbanks while on board. I also found article stating the US wanted to ban Cameras from checked bags - which could be a positive??

This is difficult, the batteries used are the type of product that appears for a few months and fade away and are replaced by higher capacity ones or slightly different. Also some of them go to sleep and don't wake until until you unplug/replug them. This thread talks about the battery for the A6500 hopefully its the same as the A6400 and has sone dead links, it's on the old wetpixel forum: https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/59443-nauticam-battery-pack-problem-a6500/ If you search, start off looking for 2000- 2500 mAhr models. Finding the required short cable with correct plugs may also be a challenge? to start you off this link is to the pack described, not in stock but click on find similar to browse, unfortunately dimensions are not provided, might be a challenge getting one to Europe though? https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ultra-Slim-Ultra-Portable-Ultra-Safe-2500mAh-Wallet-Pocket-Power-Card-Bank-ONE-for-All-External-Mini-Battery-Most-Smart-Phone-Digital-Devices-White-L/217372674

Look at pages 298-299 of the OM-1 pdf manual, sequence is set flash/camera to RC mode, open super control panel (OK button) then select flash mode. You can change to FP there. Tried it with my Olympus flash attached and the response time was quite OK with camera in manual expsoure mode.