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In general you can compare extensions on the port charts to work out any difference in required extension between different housing manufacturers. For example the 14-30 in S&S uses a 40mm extension while Isotta uses a 60mm extension. So a S&S uses 20mm less extension than an Isotta based upon this. It should follow over to the macro ports so the h63 port on the port chart for ISotta you should need a h43 which Isotta also make. - BUT please contact Isotta to confirm this. Once you know you need x mm more or less extension with S&S housing compared to the port chart you are set for any combination. You would need to source a zoom gear though and may need to get that 3D printed, but given the cost savings of not getting a new system, it seems like it's worth it. You could ask on here if anyone has 3D printed a gear? You may also be able to adapt a zoom gear you already have if one of your lenses is close to the dia of the 24-50.
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yes that will work, the port chart may or may not apply for port length, I don''t recall exactly though I think I remember hearing they do. You could ask Isotta? They are fairly responsive.
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The problem with a single lens holder and two lenses is you need to put the lens you take off somewhere as your other hand is holding the rig, The problem with the wet WA lens sitting on the hotshoe is you will be doing this when you are trying to shoot macro and aiming the rig will be more difficult when you are in close to your subject. You could consider the 3D printed wrap around strobe floats for your strobes - they look like HF-1s, there is a design someone has come up with on this site for this.
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This is something you can buy - I believe this is the sort of thing that will work: Bluewater PhotoSaga 67mm Flip Lens Adaptor for Subal Standard PortSaga 67mm Flip Lens Adaptor for Subal Standard Port - this great holder turns any port with a 67mm thread into a flip adapter for your macro lens. Looks like it is a push fit with o-ring inside. Probably need to double check if it fits her particular port.
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You could also consider Isotta for a Z8, they take all of of your S&S ports directly so no need to buy new ports and they also have a port chart for using Nauticam wet lenses like the WWL-C with their system. I expect you would just be up for new zoom gears. Here is the port chart for Nauticam lenses: Nauticam Wet lens chart - Isotta
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Welcome on board, good to see another OM-1 user on here. I'm also using Nauticam, but you could also consider Isotta and Marelux has recently released a housing, though details are thin on the ground, seems like it has a smaller port system and only lists a 140mm dome. I'm shooting with either the 60mm macro plus MFO3 (a great accessory as the 60mm macro is a bit long) and for wide angle the Canon 8-15 adapted with metabones and the Nauticam 140mm dome. If you were interested in this option the Isotta setup will be significantly cheaper. Previously I used the the Olympus 12-40 and still do occasionally when temperate water diving around home and also had the Panasonic fisheye with the tiny Zen 100mm dome. The big advantage of the Aluminium housing is they have an optical viewfinder and importantly for macro you can use a 45°viewfinder in them. The AOI housing only uses a window where you can partially see the viewfinder and you rely on the rear screen.
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No, I expect not approval was manual and the site seems totally unattended and can only be viewed by logged in members.
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Actually the 16-35 GMII is on the WACP-1/1B port chart, but it only works between 28 and 35mm zoom settings and will give you about the equivalent of a 12-16mm zoom in rectilinear terms based upon the horizontal field of view. This is not a wide zoom range and you could be left wanting more reach if the sharks are at all shy. If you want to have a zoom behind the WACP, maybe look at the Tamron 28-75 which is on the port charts if you want to be using a lens with better quality than the Sony 28-60. That lens is usable from 28-45 and will get you out to about equivalent to a 30mm lens. I expect it bumps into the back of the WACP beyond about 45mm. I seem to recall some discussion on this lens on the forums. Port Chart: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oPHvkUhf-_rRNqZWTnuIHVa_xnXhSkvI/view
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I don't doubt your images in anyway and I have no idea if the MWL-1 is optically similar. The link includes some sample images but unfortunately they are locked away behind a password. The f13 image seems visibly less sharp in the corners, though it's hard to tell at that scale. I seem to recall looking at the linked samples images years ago, but can't access them now.
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Just deleted the duplicate post for you.
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My standard preset for UW is using AF-C, I haven't used AF_C plus tracking. In tropical waters I've found the AF is pretty good. Recently I was shooting grey nurse sharks early in the day in lower vis waters and it didn't want to focus on the shark body until I got my small single point on an edge, like the outline of the shark, I'm thinking for subjects like that I'll try using a centre cross array of AF points. Normally if there is contrast in the subject it focuses pretty quickly.
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the MWL-1 sounds great but was never particularly popular, A prime reason seems to be the recommended aperture of f16. I only ever found one review of it which confirmed f16 was required to be at its best and that you could use at f14 at a stretch. Here's a link to the review: Wetpixel.comReview: Nauticam MWL-1 Conversion Lens by Jack Connick ::Wetpixel is the premiere community website dedicated to underwater photography and videography
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It is possibly a change in weather with more humid air , there is not much temperature drop to be causing condensation. The other thing that can happen is getting a few drops of water inside the housing and these evaporate if the housing is in the sun for example, this will significantly increase the humidity inside. You can often get drops clinging to your o-rings. Silica gel can help but it must be fresh and you probably need a good size packet with a large housing. If the air is at all humid they will saturate quickly if not sealed up.
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Maybe a better approach if you want both options is to have a custom mode for each of them, so the AF lever activates regular AF in one mode and eye AF in the other. Then to access them just turn the mode dial?
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As others have said you need to know which DP100 port you have - it should be labelled, they have different amounts of extension built in, the one designed specifically for the Canon 8-15 is the DP-100-N120CR, this is used with no extension when added to the N100-N120 Nauticam adapter. this is the N120CR dome, you can see the built in extension: Assuming of course you are referring to a DP100 dome, we need to know which one to recommend the right extension. Reef Photo & VideoZen DP-100-N120CR 4 Inch Glass Dome Port for Canon 8-15...Zen DP-100-N120CR 4in Glass Dome Port for Canon 8-15 /4L, Nauticam Housings, Removable Shade So you think you need a huge dome port to take advantage of your fisheye lens? Think again! Canon 8-15 /4L If you have a different model Zen DP 100 you will need to work out the extension required. If you have the 8.5" acrylic dome port it uses the 30mm extension on top of the N100-N120 adapter. it won't be as good for CFWA as the large dome pushes you further back from your subject.
