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I have seen it written multiple times and people have enquired and confirmed the coating is on the inside only. The coating won't be doing much for you if it is etched like that anyway.
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They are both One World so the JAL status should count for some extra allowance on Malaysian ? It always pays to read the fine print and know the rules.
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I now blow the water droplets off my port, I purchased a mini blower designed for computer equipment and similar and it blows the droplets off, follow by a soft microfibre cloth to leave the surface clean and bright. The slats concentrate up as the water evaporates and particularly if the salts in the water are alkaline the can etch glass. By all means try out the cerium oxide, but if that does not work, I have heard the costs for new glass are not that high.
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Site is down for me, also checked downforeveryone and it reports it down.
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working for me currently - using Windows/Firefox
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The only issue with lens stabilisation would be the fact that it is a ~35mm lens instead of a 60mm lens at least for the MFO3. The MV60 should be a similar multiplier as it is made for the same job so it should perform the same way a far as stabilisation goes. It is a camera thing rather than anything to do with the MFO3/MV60. I haven't tested video which may have different problems, but you can manually change the focal length in the menus of the OM-1.
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Welcome Shaina, hope you find the forums helpful. Post a topic in Photo gear to ask your question. It's always good to have a budget in mind as this type of photography can get very expensive very fast. With this in mind also think about what you will do with your images, my view is most people don't need full frame unless they have a specific use in mind and this is important as in general it's much more expensive to get full frame UW, there are exceptions of course and the size and weight can become a big factor.
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That description is correct. I would ask have you ever used lens like the 28-60 with a diopter? You can achieve 0.7x at 83mm , but it only shows a focused image between 83 and 135mm and much outside that range it’s really blurred. It works but it is not the same as using a macro lens. Housings can be hard to aim sometimes and with a true macro you can back up, find the subject and keep focusing as you move in . Basically easier to use . You can produce nice images with both, but a dedicated macro lens is always going to be sharper. The macro plus MFO3 gives flexibility to shoot critters from 5-10mm size all the way up to about 300-500mm.
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Update - I was told it's revised glass, they don't seem to be claiming any improvement for it.
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the old MFO3 spec: and the new: specs seem identical??
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welcome to the forums Sharyn, hope you enjoy and find them useful. What's your local dive site?
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Another review can be found here along with the article linked: https://waterpixels.net/articles/articles_news/pre-release-breakdown-of-the-new-sony-fe-8-14mm-f35-fisheye-g-r201/#findComment-561
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If you find the camera in Ebay you should be able to filter for completed sales and that should list what they were sold for. I still have my 1D MkIV, solid camera, you could use it as a hammer in a pinch but my m43 sensor beats it out and does so much more and it's 1/3 of the size and weight! I think with Ebay and older stuff there's a lot of variation as no one wants them and good prices are random events. It just depends on who is looking and whether they know how to look up past sales.
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Yes it depends what you are shooting! A 230mm dome is a big beats of a thing to travel with. As I recall you were shooting archeological sites, I guess you could crop some or zoom in a bit and do mosaics. You could always look into the new Seacam precision port but it currently only works with a Nikon 16-35 I believe, it'll do a great job at emptying your wallet though! But seriously, I recall you mentioned you thought a 20-24mm lens might do what you wanted and it will play better with a 180mm dome - The Sony 20-70 is one that a few people on here like.
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Welcome onboard Brett, good to see you here!
