Chris Ross

That can work, but I found to dry a housing off thoroughly it took about half a scuba tank using the blower nozzle the resort had on site.

Thanks, seems like it's a good thing I don't need to modify mine.

Interesting, I have 36064, the 34.7mm N85-N120 adapter and the serial number is below the cutoff listed in the Seatech link posted, this is what I have and as far as I can see the adapter (purchased secondhand) has not been modified: I use it with a 35mm extension ring type II quite happily (ignorance is bliss after all) and I've done a couple of trips using it and everything works fine as far as I can tell. It makes me wonder what the incompatibility issue is actually is? According to the instructions this is the new style locking block and it seems to have a shorter tab: As I said the locking block in the photo works with my type II 35mm N120 extension ring.

I stumbled across an Instagram post from Tobias Freidreich talking about housing maintenance and he mentioned using a Wolfbox mini blower, which is usually used to clean out PCs, keyboards etc. This is the blower: Wolfbox AUElectric Air Duster –110000RPM Super Power | WOLFBOX MF50WOLFBOX MF50 Electric Air Duster with 110000RPM super power. Perfect for electronics, keyboards, cars, and outdoor cleaning. Order now and make cleaning simple! It is a Li ion rechargeable model and does put out a lot of air. I tried it out for the first time today blowing my Nauticam housing dry after a long soak. It develops good velocity using the smallest nozzle and really moves the water droplets quite quickly. In a couple of minutes I had blown the housing completely dry, I hovered it vertically over each button and along each seam and used it to clear out water from behind the latch and all the crevices and around the vacuum valve cover. I also tried it out blowing out the 0-ring grooves. I found it performed pretty well , you need to go over the housing a few times as each new bit of water you blow out of crevices needs to be blown off the housing surface. All in all it is a big improvement of the rocket hand bulb I've been using and it's nice and portable for travel. A full blow down uses a good percentage of the available charge though. It actually seems more efficient than using a scuba tank with a duster attachment to blow off water. I think it's a worthwhile addition and would recommend it. This process of blowing off all the water droplets is important to help prevent the white coating that tends to appear on anodized housings over time. If water droplets are allowed to dry the salts in the water concentrate and start to etch the coating. It also seems efficient in blowing out residual water behind buttons and various controls. Here's a pic of it with my housing: Uploading Attachment... It should help keep you housing looking good and have a longer life. Usual disclaimer, no relationship to vendor, just happy customer. Searching for Wolfbox air duster will bring up lots of vendors. They do have a bigger more expensive model, but this one seems quite adequate for the job. Uploading Attachment...

Further to this topic I recently purchased a mini blower to blow the housing dry, seems to work pretty well. I'm posting a mini review.

Yes that's the one, to bad it can't be used then, may work on other brands perhaps?

My MFO3 came with an M67 adapter, seems to be a different one to the one you linked in your post, the glass sits back behind the end of the adapter when it is installed, so should attach to most any M67 accessory.

I'm using the MFO3, took it to Lembeh last year and got quite a bit of use out of it. Also using it in Sydney diving. On the same dive I could swap between shooting a gyrating Harlequin sweetlips with 60 and a 500mm long trumpet fish adding on the MFO3. The reason for using it is you have the 60mm capability when you need and can switch pretty quickly to the 36-37mm focal length of the MFO3, you don't get that reach with the 14-42 and macro is more of a challenge. It seems to me there are advantages to be able to shoot the smallest fish with the 60mm over the 14-42. Focusing seems very straight forward with the MFO3, I didn't notice any hunting when using it and if you look at the EXIF you are shooting between 2m and infinity on the lens as reported in the EXIF for the most part (the subject is of course much closer) . This is the range where the 60mm is quite snappy. I would add that the 14-42 once you get to the long end is reported to be not the sharpest knife in he drawer while the MFO3 is sharp across the frame as it corrects for the aberrations caused by shooting through a flat port. At the 36-37mm focal length the 14-42 would be experiencing those aberrations behind a flat port. Here's a brief review of using the MFO3 with the 60mm macro:

If you look at the colour spaces Macs use DCI-P3 which is a little smaller than Adobe RGB and is extended in reds/yellows more so than blues/green that Adobe RGB covers better. This diagram shows the coverage of various colour spaces:

I agree in principle, One thing that seems apparent there are quite a few flavours of TTL among different strobes, you just have to look at the UWT triggers which have multiple different settings for all the different strobes and a different trigger model for each camera brand. I believe the timings are different with each type of TTL and I suspect this is a reason TTL is regarded as unreliable underwater as up until recently a universal slave TTL was all that was available. I heard somewhere that Olympus RC is open source so it does not need reverse engineering to make it work so in principle UW strobes that work with RC mode will work as well as any Olympus strobe on land when shooting TTL. It was also specifically setup to send TTL commands optically. This is probably the reason it might work a little better.

No problem, they are nice to work with - right! One thing to remember, if you are posting these, browser are mostly default colour managed now, however they will assume your image is sRGB unless it is tagged otherwise, You do need to keep the colour profile in the file, there is generally a check box to include the colour profile in the file when you save. Unfortunately you need the good monitor to see the benefit, Apple users will be close, but if they are being viewed by photography enthusiasts they are more likely to have a good monitor.

You can get very close with it, it compresses the range that will focus quite a bit, I haven't tested the limits of it at the short end, but the port chart says it will focus from 0-1500mm and get to 0.8x implying it will focus from the glass out to 1.5m away. If I need to get super close, it seems the best solution is often to remove the MFO3 and use the bare lens as you will get more magnification and working distance. The exception would be murky water with particles and you want to get closer to reduce backscatter.

Guide numbers can be quite misleading, A lot depends on how the light is distributed in the beam. Quite a few strobe tests have been posted on here in the last couple of years, it's probably about the best comparison you could find. Assume you've looked at the pinned strobe comparison table in this forum, the spreadsheet linked has larger images.

There have been some threads discussing this, I recall there is a quality uplift, but don't recall how dramatic.

sorry no, best to DM I think, you could try looking through his posts you might see something there?