Chris Ross

There is good reason they are locked, so that people don't change their post in the event of a dispute. I do agree a mark as sold button would be worthwhile, but not sure if forum software allows this. We can check.

You can download the manual which will include how to setup the strobes - just go to the S&S website. They have a few procedures to customise the strobe to work with various cameras.

It's been a long time coming interesting to see if it was worth the wait, so far I can only find pre-order with some basic pics on the two sites mentioned.

expect you're right, I couldn't see the connector which is why I mentioned it.

You should also probably remove the trigger as well - is it an UWT trigger or some other type? What are the cables attached to?

They could be different types of glass, there are many different types of optical glass around. BK7 is one of the most common. The procedure is straight forward - on a dive boat either keep the lens wet or apply the wet neoprene lens cover and keep it cool. Soak the lens for a period in fresh water. Then remove it and dry it straight away. I have a battery duster that I use, you could also use a blower attachment on a scuba tank or a compressed ir hose, depending on what you have available. Then dry with a microfibre cloth.

Perhaps, but in general higher concentrations of salts are more corrosive, in any case you can't dissolve these markings, maybe they have etched the glass, maybe the compounds have chemically combined with components in the glass. Apparently BK7 glass (a common optical glass) only has moderate chemical resistance. This topic has been raised many times and reports are dissolving the spots doesn't work and they require polish to remove. Whatever the mechanism, the cause is still allowing water to evaporate on the glass and the prevention is blowing off or wiping dry so evaporation doesn't occur. Apparently cerium oxide is slightly softer than BK7 glass and can polish without causing micro scratches.

could be different glass compositions? in any case the cause doesn't change and allowing your rinse water to dry can do this. What is your fresh water like? Is it hard water? This makes things worse as hard water is caused by alkaline salts and they can etch (corrode) the glass if sufficiently concentrated. You can use a blower or a nozzle attached to a tank to blow water off.

Unfortunately this is a case of prevention being better than cure. This happens when salty water is allowed to dry on the surface. The salts concentrate and the pH increases and eventually it etches the glass. Some people have reported success using optical grade cerium oxide to polish. This risks damage to anti reflective coatings, so use at your own risk, but there are reports of it cleaning the surface up reasonable well. To prevent keep the glass wet till you can soak it in freshwater. When you remove it it blow it dry and wipe with a microfibre cloth to prevent the droplets evaporating on the surface. Even the rinse water drying repeatedly will eventually etch the glass surface.

Welcome onboard Don, good to see you here.

The answer is in the port charts, Nauticam publishes this data for all their wet lenses. The CMC-1 and L10 covers a field 33 x 25mm approx with the CMC-1 and working distance is 51-72mm. So a Shaun the sheep at maybe 3-4mm long will fill around 10% of the frame. With the working distance of 50mm, getting more magnification with other wet lenses will be a challenge as it will eat into working distance. Diopters work by allowing you to focus closer. You can review the port chart to see what cameras allow more magnification - some of the Canon compacts will get you about 23x13 at similar working distance and the Sony RX100VII will get 16x10 at 90mm and even closer with more powerful diopters but lacks working room. The downside of the RX100 is the need to swap ports to get the best out of the lens with wet wide optics. The parameter here is the focal length of the lens, the longer the focal length the more working room and the higher the magnification with a given diopter. If you really want some magnification you can't beat a interchangable lens camera, the olympus 60mm macro will cover 17x13mm without a diopter 10 x 7.6 with a CMC-2 with 30-93mm working room. Port chart is here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1m9xE92aU7oWuZ5SohUoXAudpZSK_7EaX/view

When I shot the Panasonic 8mm with Zen dome and also with the 60mm macro currently I used a pair of INON mega floats with 390 gr each buoyancy which was about perfect for both setups, being about 100-200 gr negative. I do see they now have a new model which has 460 gr which might be a little too much, though the Olympus fisheye is about 150 gr heavier which is about equal to the additional weight. I actually switched to using the mega arm with a 135 gr float arm I have since adding the 45° viewfinder, so I'm fairly certain the 460 gr float alone would work. I pair it with a standard 8"arm plus a long clamp between the two. The arm is the Mega arm model S: INON_globalINON Arm System [Arm]Official web site of INON INC. Manufacture of underwater imaging gears, strobes, conversion lenses, arms, housings and more.

Believe it only does S-AF, can't do C-AF, so not so good for video, unless you are shooting with certain Sigma lenses apparently.

Right I'd forgotten that so back to a converted 8-15 if you want a TC option.

No I'm talking about the Canon 8-15 with Metabones in reply to the original question about a Canon 8-15 with Metabones, with 2x nose fitting into the Metabones which requires the latest version if I recall correctly as earleir versions were smaller ID. I 'll edit the text to make this clearer.