Chris Ross

I recall most people using full frame tend to stop down to f11-13 range with the 8-15 fisheye, you might try that. If you have a 20mm extension you could try that as well. Nauticam list a 20mm extension with the 7-14, while both Nauticam and Marelux list a 30mm extension for the EF 8-15, suggesting that 20mm may work on Marelux. I would not suggest buying a 20mm extension yet until you see a recommendation from Marelux. Perhaps @Phil Rudin may see the thread and comment?

I don't recall any detailed discussion on extensions for this lens on the forums as the lens is so new. SO far it seems only Nauticam has it on port charts where it uses 10mm less extension than the EF 8-15. It is likely it also uses 10mm less on Marelux, but needs to be confirmed as it is not on the port chart yet. There was a lot of discussion on the optimum extension for the 8-15 lens but it was rather inconclusive , the samples provided IMO showed no improvement for the longer extension. Nothing so far on the 7-14 I recall. Have you tested with 30mm extension at the 7mm end?, due to the 190 field the lens needs to be placed further forward to prevent vignetting, which is probably why Nauticam use 20mm. I would expect the 7-14 to vignette at 7mm with a 35mm extension, but it needs to be tested. Regarding a 1.4x it seems it's currently not possible to use a 1.4x, as you note the nose is too long. Also I believe the mount is keyed to prevent mounting it even if the nose was shorter. Kenko 1.4x is not available in RF mount so out of luck to use a 1.4x. Currently the EF 8-15 lens is the only way to get a fisheye plus 1.4x in combination with Kenko 1.4x and some people have used the RF 1.4x with the nose inside a Comcast RF-EF adapter that has been enlarged by filing it out and reported good results. On the 35mm f1.8, Marelux recommend the 140mm dome, the 50mm would be fine in that dome I think but you would need to test if it focuses well UW as the 50mm has a long 30cm min focus distance.

what basis are you using for that comparison? You should be able to use all your existing ports and extensions on Isotta, perhaps not on Nauticam. Is that quote for a full set of ports for both options? The difficulty in explaining is hopping between two options . If you want to use the 24-50 on your current S&S housing is option 1. Option two is to go to a Z8 system either Nauticam or Isotta. . Option 1 just email Isotta and ask them if they can confirm the correct port to use with the 24-50 on your S&S housing. You would need to print a zoom gear and there are a few places that will do this you could try: https://www.deepshots.co.uk/collections/gears-for-olympus-and-panasonic?grid_list=grid-view&filter.v.price.gte=&filter.v.price.lte= https://eocean.eu/en/16-custom-design-machining F.I.T 3D printed zoom gear and focus gear of various styles[Instructions] Zoom ring/focus ring customized production If you have any questions, please contact [email protected] Option 2 if you went with a new housing , again email Isotta and ask what is needed to use your existing domes/extensions with a new Z8 housing. You can buy all you need for the 24-50 off the shelf. I believe you should be able to keep all of your existing domes. For the Nauticam option to make reusing your domes feasible you would need to source Nauticam lug rings for each S&S dome assuming they are removable, they used to be available but now discontinued. You would need to know the length of the Saga adapter if you wanted to go that way.

Regarding expense it depends- you could just continue with your Z7 and just buy the Isotta flat port and it will be dirt cheap, you mentioned that as one option for you. I think the Isotta housings are certainly a lot cheaper in Australia, but it seems to vary by country, their extensions are about half the price of Nauticam in USA. Their ports are closer in price, but Isotta still a little cheaper. If you went with Isotta Z8 and assuming they 20mm more extension you just need one 20mm extension ring which would work with all of your other ports including your macro port. So you would be up for Housing plus 20mm extension (if you don't have one) plus a set of zoom gears. Looking at your lenses and guessing you have a 20/30/40mm extension you would appear to be fully covered?? If you went with Nauticam then it's a different story - you should Be able to convert your ports over to Nauticam bayonets, but the extension rings have their lugs machined in and are not adaptable meaning you need to buy some Nauticam extensions unless you can find an adapter. One exists for Nauticam ports on Isotta housings but doesn't seem to be one for Isotta/S&S ports on Nauticam housings so Nauticam will add up to more. You need Zoom gears if changing housings and Isotta are about 1/2 Nauticam price. To convert your ports to Nauticam they need to have a removable lug ring, not all S&S ports have this. The Nauticam lug rings also seem hard to find now and are essential to re-use your ports unless you find an adapter. On the WWL-C it mounts using a Nauticam bayonet only so you would have to take it off and put it "somewhere" to swap to a CMC/SMC and it's big lump of alloy and glass. I don't think swinging is an option. It should be a little wider than a 14mm rectilinear and much smaller physically. Something like equivalent to 12-13mm of horizontal field and will zoom into about a 50° horizontal field, equivalent to about a 40mm lens or so. They stretch more in the corners so are not as wide horizontal field wise as the diagonal field of view suggests. So it would replace your 14-30 and be both wider, longer lighter, physically smaller and won't need to stop down so much. Using the 24-50 with a macro lens is doable but fiddly getting to 0.9x and giving 49mm working distance, but that it from an approximately 150mm wide disc, rather than the ~75mm diameter OD of the nose of a macro port, which will limit approach angles a bit for many subjects.

The port charts don't agree unfortunately take the Nikon Z 14-30, on Isotta they suggest a 60mm extension for all ports. Sea and Sea suggests a 40mm extension again for all ports. The Canon 14-35mm f4 Isotta recommends 50mm, S&S say either 30 or 40mm depending upon port. The statement from Backscatter could mean the ports have the same mount and will fit, it doesn't specifically say the extension rings remain the same after all they would like to sell you some!

Nice shot, caught a good pose. I would suggest pulling in the white point followed by a light S curve to boost contrast a little.

Buried in the datasheet is the maximum discharge current of 2A, which seems a little low, a test of regular eneloops I found was measuring 5, 6, 7 up to 10A. This high discharge current is needed for fast recycle times on UW strobes. The recycle time for strobes is set by the internal resistance of the cells, so these would recycle slower than eneloops. The labelled capacity seems high but likely a work of fiction.

Very fine treads like that are a problem they can be difficult to start even when not damaged. Yes the aluminium is soft but if you are also screwing a soft aluminium adapter in to try and fix not much happens and there is a risk of cross threading and doing more damage. The correct way to try to fix this is using a thread file with the correct pitch of 0.75mm. You carefully place the teeth in an undamaged section and carefully move it around the circumference. It is meant to lift and straighten the teeth of the thread. It may be difficult to do with the glass in place though. The down side of fixing is you scrape off any anodising and it might be more prone to corrosion and seizing than a new thread. How much does the vendor want for it? with a damaged thread it should be close to free?😅

This sentence shows where AI got it wrong, it saying that as they share the same bayonet the housing flange distance must be the same, this is completely incorrect as that flange distance is totally different from the how the port is locked in place. You can see this with Nauticam when they first bought out RF and Z housings for Canon/Nikon, They both use N120 ports but the RF and Z housings have the flange distance longer by the thickness of the EF-RF and F-Z adapters specifically to allow the same zoom gear and extensions to be used when using adapted lenses when you upgrade housings. Doing a little research it lifted this comment from a comment on a post on Waterpixels. It didn't realise there is more to the problem than just being able to mount the domes/extensions. There seems to be some scatter in the port charts with S&S either 10 or 20mm less than what Isotta suggests with Z mount lenses. So I agree best to check with Isotta. In general I see a lot of the google AI summaries when searching for references related to topics raised here, for technical issues I see lots of problems, often conflating two or more topics to came to a false conclusion. AI can be great for example to develop a summary from a meeting transcript or similar tasks organising words, but the results need to be checked very carefully on technical topics. They are large language models which predict which words follow the previous and responses are highly tuned to the exact syntax used when asking a question. I glance at the results in the AI section and go into the actual results to find my answers.

In general you can compare extensions on the port charts to work out any difference in required extension between different housing manufacturers. For example the 14-30 in S&S uses a 40mm extension while Isotta uses a 60mm extension. So a S&S uses 20mm less extension than an Isotta based upon this. It should follow over to the macro ports so the h63 port on the port chart for ISotta you should need a h43 which Isotta also make. - BUT please contact Isotta to confirm this. Once you know you need x mm more or less extension with S&S housing compared to the port chart you are set for any combination. You would need to source a zoom gear though and may need to get that 3D printed, but given the cost savings of not getting a new system, it seems like it's worth it. You could ask on here if anyone has 3D printed a gear? You may also be able to adapt a zoom gear you already have if one of your lenses is close to the dia of the 24-50.

yes that will work, the port chart may or may not apply for port length, I don''t recall exactly though I think I remember hearing they do. You could ask Isotta? They are fairly responsive.

The problem with a single lens holder and two lenses is you need to put the lens you take off somewhere as your other hand is holding the rig, The problem with the wet WA lens sitting on the hotshoe is you will be doing this when you are trying to shoot macro and aiming the rig will be more difficult when you are in close to your subject. You could consider the 3D printed wrap around strobe floats for your strobes - they look like HF-1s, there is a design someone has come up with on this site for this.

This is something you can buy - I believe this is the sort of thing that will work: Bluewater PhotoSaga 67mm Flip Lens Adaptor for Subal Standard PortSaga 67mm Flip Lens Adaptor for Subal Standard Port - this great holder turns any port with a 67mm thread into a flip adapter for your macro lens. Looks like it is a push fit with o-ring inside. Probably need to double check if it fits her particular port.

You could also consider Isotta for a Z8, they take all of of your S&S ports directly so no need to buy new ports and they also have a port chart for using Nauticam wet lenses like the WWL-C with their system. I expect you would just be up for new zoom gears. Here is the port chart for Nauticam lenses: Nauticam Wet lens chart - Isotta

Welcome on board, good to see another OM-1 user on here. I'm also using Nauticam, but you could also consider Isotta and Marelux has recently released a housing, though details are thin on the ground, seems like it has a smaller port system and only lists a 140mm dome. I'm shooting with either the 60mm macro plus MFO3 (a great accessory as the 60mm macro is a bit long) and for wide angle the Canon 8-15 adapted with metabones and the Nauticam 140mm dome. If you were interested in this option the Isotta setup will be significantly cheaper. Previously I used the the Olympus 12-40 and still do occasionally when temperate water diving around home and also had the Panasonic fisheye with the tiny Zen 100mm dome. The big advantage of the Aluminium housing is they have an optical viewfinder and importantly for macro you can use a 45°viewfinder in them. The AOI housing only uses a window where you can partially see the viewfinder and you rely on the rear screen.