Chris Ross

I do it's the neoprene bag the lens came with, it doubles up to keep the lens from drying out till I get home and soak it in fresh water. I'm planning to see if I can find a neoprene sleeve and cap that's more stream lined for longer term use

some pics, first the docking adapter on my float arm second the MFO3 mounted. You have a similar adapter mounted to the port to accept the bayonet mount, line up the white marks, insert then turn till it clicks. You can see it is a big lump of glass. Roughly same size as 60mm macro port. Honestly if you are just boat diving a quality flip adapter will be easier to use, just doesn't seem practical for me when shore diving from rocky entries, which is why I went with the bayonet.

Alex Mustard used it on a flip adapter, so it will work. I found it fine to carry in cargo short pockets and went that way as I will use a lot at home where I am making sometimes a little rough shore entries and exits, but from a boat the flip will be fine I think as long as its fairly robust. Here is a link to Alex's review. also I replied to your original post asking what to use:

IMO the very best thing you can do for Lembeh is buy a Nauticam MFO3, I went there last September and used it quite a bit for larger subjects in combination with a 60mm macro which is what you want for smaller critters. It increases you field of view to about a 35mm lens. With this you can get both large and small subjects on the one dive. Here's my report on using at Lembeh: and here is my trip report to Lembeh: I used the MFO3 on the Nauticam bayonet mount and kept the lens in a cargo shorts pocket. At home in Sydney I have it mounted on a docking adapter on a float arm which works well. It's a fairly big lump but manageable. At least out here in Australia the MFO3 is cheaper than a 30mm macro plus macro port - assuming Nauticam housing, but you have to buy bayonet adapter, bayonet ring and docking adapter. Definitely worth it for the flexibility and image quality is very nice.

Your recollection is correct the attachment point on the WWL or adapter ring has 3 blades. The locking pin drops into a recess to prevent rotation. The only way these bayonets work is like with like. The way to use a WWl-1B is to mount a Nauticam bayonet assembly to the flat port. The only way to mix and match a Nauticam wet lens to another bayonet system is with the first WWL-1 which has an M67 thread allowing other bayonet rings to be threaded on, this may or may work well depending on how the spacing of the rear element ends up in relation to the flat port glass. The OP has a WWL-1B and the only way to use this with Marelux is to use a Nauticam bayonet mount on the the flat port, unfortunately the WWL-1 doesn't work well with available Canon zooms. I don't know if you have purchased anything yet but the ideal situation would be to compare costs using your WWL-1 with other systems such as the Nikon 24-50 or SONY 28-60 against buying a new port wet lens under the Marelux system to use your 16-35. Of course if you already have the R6 that's a different story. If that's the case I still think you should look into finding a second hand 8-15 lens, there will be plenty of them available in Japan and they will usually ship internationally. But the ideal situation will vary somewhat with what you like to shoot. If you were shooting mostly at the wide end of your WWL-1 with the R50, the 8-15 would be a good choice. But if you were using the long end a lot as well, going with a WWL range lens would be better. On the choice of wet lens, the Marelux 130 matches the WWL-1 it seems with the same field which is just slightly wider than a 14mm rectilinear in the horizontal field assuming that the Marelux has similar barrel distortion to the WWL-1, Marelux 110 seems a little narrow to me as the bare lens by itself is as wide if not a little wider in the horizontal field.

I basically no longer use tracking UW, it seems to work quite well on the eye of a bird but not so well UW on my system. I suspect this around the camera not being trained on your subject, so whether AI subject recognition is on or not is one thing, but if tracking is enabled without it the camera still needs to remember what it was focusing on and follow it. It probably has recovery features if it loses it, but can only do so much. So this means i have to place the small spot where I want focus and fire when it achieves focus, works well as long as the subject doesn't suddenly sway due to surge. It takes some practice to achieve this and I've found hand held macro photography on land to be a decent taring ground.

From what I recall the WWL-1B doesn't work well with bigger lenses, this is why Nauticam doesn't list any EF lenses as being compatible, even the 28-80 that they list for the the WACP-C is said not to work with the WWL-1B, but the Marelux Aquista lenses are listed working with the other lenses.

The wet lens in question here is the WWL-1B as opposed to the WWL-1. The WWL-1B as I understand it can only mount to the Nauticam bayonet adapter, while the WWL-1 which was the first released has a 67mm thread and needs an adapter ring to attach to a Nauticam bayonet mount. You buy the Nauticam m67-bayonet adapter to attach to the port and the WWl-1B attaches directly.

I shoot quite a bit of macro, not a Sony user however I think I can offer some thoughts. When you are life size, your depth of field is very small - around about 1mm, so it stands to reason that you need to be able to compensate for the fact your subject might be moving, you may not be totally stable and surge and current might intrude into the picture causing both you and your subject to move. My regular UW shooting is done in Botany Bay south of Sydney, this site is inside the heads but rather exposed to ocean swells which can produce varying degrees of surge and also subject to tidal currents, one of the subjects there is the pygmy pipehorse and swings slightly out of sync with the surge. My technique with that is continuous AF, holding down the control as required while framing and waiting for it to swing into position. The AF chases and swings around quite a bit as the subject moves out from under the single small AF point. The trick to me seems to be patience waiting until the subject is in position then activating AF and if needed half pressing the shutter to engage IS which helps hold the AF point on target. The shot is taken when I can see positively that the AF has grabbed focus. The point is that IS can account for side to side, up and down movement, bu the AF needs to deal with our back and forth movement, so anything you can do to minimise this will be a great help. How well can you hover? DO you use a pointer or grab a safe handhold on bare rock to stabilise? You talk about moving off target is this because you/the subject moved or are you saying the camera decided that another object was better to focus on? I used to use C-AF plus tracking but have reverted to C-AF without tracking using the smallest AF point, then it's up to me to stay on the target and I find I can make this work, certainly don't get every frame sharp, but what I get is acceptable.

Looks like they are going to deny all knowledge. Looking around online seems to be a handful of shops claiming they have equipment in stock, but the Fantasea line website seems to be broken. You last option is probably to ask if they can sell you the o-rings for the AOI version? Otherwise use it till it gives you a problem.

AN 8-15 fisheye is an excellent lens and IMO a 16-35 is not a replacement for it as it doesn't focus particularly close so is likely to need a large 230mm dome port to do its best. You could consider a sigma fisheye but that's unfortunately also discontinued. A quick look shows quite a few 8-15 lenses on sale from second hand camera stores in Japan which might be a good option, they are advertised on Ebay. In rectilinear lenses, the 15-30 STM lens and 14-35 focus much closer and work better in domes including smaller domes like the 180mm, sample images are found here, where you can compare performance of the lenses: Your problem with the WWL is that the Nauticam port chart does not have any recommendations for full frame and the WWL-1B, they list the WWL-C with the 24-50, however the 24-50 doesn't receive good reviews. The WWL is only slightly wider than the the 16-35 lens in the horizontal axis. What's best probably really depends on what you shoot, for reef scenics and CFWA, the fisheye is king, anything needing some reach like pekagics maybe the rectilinear or look into the 8-15 plus 1.4x.

I use the think tank street walker hard drive, Carries my Nauticam OM-1 plus two retra strobes with dome, canon 8-15 and bits and pieces. It includes a laptop sleeve. The Think Tank bags are really well built, I got mine back in 2009 and it has had a lot of use and is still going strong. Pic of it loaded up below, It has Nauticam housing, Zen 170mm dome, Zen 100mm dome, macro port, two INON Z-240s and lenses to use in these ports plus batteries for all .

Hard to go past the little S220 INON, very compact and powerful enough. The TG-6 at max zoom if f6.3 at most anything beyond that is an ND filter and gets to f18 - mostly useful to pressures ambient light if you want a black background, but apart from that doesn't need a lot of strobe power as you are mostly in very close for macro work.

Try again: https://waterpixels.net/forums/topic/1438-testing-nauticam-n120-port-extension-for-140mm-and-180mm-domes-with-wide-angle-lenses/?&do=findComment&comment=13817 The links on the forum are not active everywhere in the box, you have to hover over the title, caught me out a few times, hopefully this link works, it's just to show minimal difference with a change in extension on a fisheye.

I would at least send them pictures and see if they still try to deny it.