Chris Ross

Thanks for the update

Doesn't seem that way when travelling and resorts in Asia set prices in $USD or Euros, the currency markets obviously has different ideas! But seriously, it's down to high markups by the distributors, small populations mean small markets and the distributor has effectively a protected monopoly to bring stuff in. It used to be really bad before but now prices seem to be set by the cost to import through grey channels more or less.

I find it generally better to compare horizontal fields as a lot of the stretching of the image in a fisheye is in the corners. As to whether a fisheye will be a good option -, it really depends on what you are shooting. I know Alex Mustard has chimed in a number of times with the view that just comparing fields doesn't give you the full story, it's the subject pop which brings it forward in the frame that is what you are after. As you zoom in this impact slowly goes away and is quite mild at the equivalent of the the WACP at it's widest. The WACP has similar distortion to a zoomed in fisheye. This table shows the fields of view at the extremes of the the 8-15 with 1.4x and the WACP. You can see this in zoom ratios. The 28-70 is a 2.5x zoom but in the WACP the zoom ration is 3.1x. Similarly the 8-15 is a 2x, but becomes 2.6x and this is at a reduced zoom range of 11-15 on the zoom ring. as an aside using the full zoom range on micro43 gives a 4.3x zoom ratio. This is due to progressively cropping the stretched corners, these corners stretch more the further you go from centre. You can see there is minimal overlap between the two in terms of horizontal field which is what sets what you can fit within the frame much of the time. I've added rectilinear equivalent focal lengths as well - this is the rectilinear focal length with the same horizontal field. In terms of fisheye effect, if you are at 15mm whether it's just the lens or it's the lens plus 1.4x (~11 on the zoom dial), the fisheye effect is there. As you zoom in it reduces because you are progressively cropping out the stretched corners.

The Mark V seems like it has a bigger bore which allows you to use the Sony 1.4x with it and the 8-15 if that is on your radar and further the Sony 2x works with it as well. See this link: https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/70078-canon-ef-8-15mm-fisheye-questions/&do=findComment&comment=444015 This link talks about using the 2x: You would need to check if the bore of the Mark V is big enough to allow this. There is some suggestion on other threads that the earlier versions might hunt a little more/

it's already more expensive in the USA for Nauticam at least on an AUD basis compared to buying here in AU. Backscatter price is $USD 5272, which $AUD 8481. The local Nauticam dealer lists it for $AUD7332.

Fixed

this is one I found: https://www.ebay.com/itm/256829859148?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item another: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1690693281147291/posts/3885323085017622/?_rdr Saga is not on here, you can contact through website: https://sagadive.com/en/product-category/frontales-y-aros/aros/aros-adaptadores/saga-aro-adaptador/

I think there are a few aspects to the choice. Retra has a wide range of accessories in addition to their snoot options like their reducing rings to help tame the strobes when shooting "regular" macro as opposed to snooting. Depends if this is of interest to you. I didn't research if Kraken offers this as well. I think the weight savings are probably the biggest argument the weight in water is significantly different 300 gr vs 150 gr (Retra with booster it's 60 gr without booster) so that's less floatation required as well. The strobes are about the same diameter but the Kraken is longer by about 50mm (25mm less when packed with booster installed). One reason to take both caps might be to use the regular caps when transporting to help squeeze the strobes in and pack the boosters in checked bags perhaps? Size and shape as well as weight may make all the difference depending on the dimensions of you bags.

The thread mentioned is an imperial thread size 1"14 TPI is ANF 1", 1"UNF it seems is 12 TPI. So it's a finer thread than UNF. Compared to M24 x 1 the pitch is coarser however. The pitch is the distance between consecutive peaks on the thread, the M24 x 1 is 1mm pitch and the !"x 14 the pitch is 1.8mm. Be interested to see what makes the Aquatica thread more reliable? Good to see we found a solution.

I'm assuming that you need this for an older fourlock housing which Ikelite doesn't support anymore? A couple of options, first post here in the classifieds with a wanted to buy. If you don't succeed there you may need to get one custom made. Saga does custom work and may be able to help. There are probably some others around, The fact the adapter is threaded makes it a little more complicated. BTW there's one on Ebay now but it comes with a 5DMkIV housing and looks like one in Australia too on a a facebook group.

According to the manual if it is lit orange it means ready to fire in pre-flash manual mode. So you are saying it stayed orange and did not change to other colours when you turned the dial? You could try the reset sequence in this link: https://scubaboard.com/community/threads/sea-sea-ys-d2-strobe-failure.577325/post-8607810 It will likely change the custom mode to factory default, but might get you going again?

Hi Tim, I've confirmed the full description is: 1.4x TELEPLUS PRO 300 N-AFd DG I'm also informed it was previously used on a D500 with a 10-17. Now being used on a Z8 with an 8-15.

Sorry, still not sure which camera you are referring to, the only Canon G cameras I am aware of is the G series compacts like to G16. Is it an EOS DSLR? Full frame or APS_C? this will all impact what lens to choose.

Whether or not an o-ring can withstand reverse pressure depends upon the design of the o-ring groove. A surface o-ring like used in Ikelite and the Nauticam housings with removable backs cannot as they rely upon the external pressure pushing the housing back into contact with the o-ring. A piston o-ring such as INON caps or the HF-1 should be fine Lubrication can also be an issue on clamshell and piston style o-rings. The o-ring needs to be able to slide back and forth in its groove to press up against the sealing surfaces and form the seal. If the o-ring hangs up up it might prevent the seal from forming. I note with my Z-240 strobes I apply a very thin layer of lube to the cap inside surface and it screws on very easily. When I come to remove the the cap it is often quite tight, like as if the lubricant has washed away. If you had internal pressure the o-ring would need to move. Internal pressure is relative - you could have higher internal pressure from taking your strobe to a higher altitude. Having said that I often leave the batteries in for extended periods after a dive particularly if I only do one dive. So far I've been fine.

Some of the newer housings label the bulkhead ports as M16 and this one is claimed to be a special M24 but I'm not sure exactly which thread it is the stated diameter doesn't match major or minor diameters for metric or UNC threads.

I've only dived there the once, however there is a lot to see around the kelp on the offshore islands, waters a little cooler of course but a drysuit will atke care of that.

Sorry to hear about the flood, but good the strobe appeared to survive. I can see a maybe 3 possible leak sources, the general integrity of the cap, the pressure relief valve in the cap and the o-rings themselves. This strobe has an additional o-ring sometimes called a sand seal that the strobe cap contacts when installed. I have one of these on my INON torch and my experience is there is no water entry past that o-ring, so that I don't get sand/grit on the o-rings and there are never any water droplets. My INON Z240 strobes always have water drops on the o-rings in contrast. Did you happen to check for water droplets on your o-rings? For the other two entry points, I'm wondering if it might be worthwhile to get a new cap as a precaution?

Are you talking about a Canon compact G series camera and asking about a closeup diopter to use with it?

Thanks Dave, in any case the video mentions they shouldn't be stacked. If people are interested to rty they could perhaps add an ordinary diopter (not a Nauticam one) which doesn't have the correction built in. If you already have a another diopter it would be simple to try it out.

There is also this: You can see in the image the MFO (yellow band ) appears to have a thread, however as @Dave Hicks mentions his doesn't have one. I expect the image shows a prototype version. The discussion in the video mentions the reason they are not stacked.

Yes, some of them come with M16 holes and at least one model has M16 and 1/2"holes, the M24 one is a bit inusual though it seems.

This link indicates it is an M24 "special thread" which may mean it is not the standard M24 thread , this is for an M24 bulkhead from Dive n See made for Aquatica: https://diveandsee.com/dnc-2119-full-hdmi-uwater-bulkhead-connector-m24-for-aquatica-a7siii/?srsltid=AfmBOoqb6-w77efZerGDDu7oTbm1T6pQshyTQWMT2oCn0UcObHbBEN5D I had a look at an M24- M16 adapter that I have from Nauticam and it appears to be an M24 x 1 thread this means the thread pitch is 1.0mm. It could be that the Aquatica one is M24 x 2mm - a coarser thread? They state it is a 23.75mm opening which doesn't seem to match up with the diameters of any of the M24 threads. You can measure the threads with a thread gauge but most people won't have access to these and less they can get assistance from a machine shop. You really need the exact specification of the thread so that it matches your housing and this doesn't appear to be listed online anywhere so asking Aquatica is a good plan.

There's two steps in the setup process, first is to get it into setting mode which shows a blue light once achieved and the second step is to apply the setting which should be followed by a blue light and buzzer. Do you get the blue light initially? Secondly to confirm, you are talking about the settings to be changed on page E-32. Did you make any setting changes as outlined on page E-31? I would also ask which trigger are you using and if you have tried using the strobe at it's default setting?

If they still prove problematic on your trip you might try taping the plugs for a tighter fit?

I think S&S cables should be fine, S&S strobes after all used to need the very best cables to trigger reliably, so their cables should be good.