Chris Ross

If they are for the HF-1, Backscatter are quite specific on what models will work with that strobe as it has a very high current draw . Cheap batteries are always a risk. see this link, quite interesting, it's for 18650 batteries but same risks with the bigger cells: 18650 batteries flaws

Reduction rings are probably what you are looking for, they seem to make a big difference, My Retras have their reduction rings on for all my Sydney diving, it was night and day on backscatter compared to my old Z240s. Basically just an opaque ring that extends about 15-20mm beyond the strobe front lens. There's probably a few ways you could make some yourself.

I'd forgotten about that option, I only checked Backscatter's website and it appears they don't sell Marelux. For the OP it might be difficult to use with the Tokina lens as it appears it would need a 10mm extension (with their 140mm dome) that is not offered by Marelux. Adapting the 4.33" port is also a no go as the adapter Marelux sell has 20mm extension which is too much as the 4.33" dome which seems like it would need no extension. It could be used with the 8-15 with their 140mm dome and 30mm extension.

The second part of the question is if you have a guide who can find tiny subjects for you. I know I'm not the best at finding tiny subjects.

Is your question around whether it can be used with Nauticam wet optics? with a Nikon Z50?

Backscatter will send them to you if they have them, though freight might be expensive. I think they have gone back to NiMH throughout. Ikelite would probably send to you as well? Did you check Ikelite website, they list a dealer in Tokyo. Here is the thread on doing the re-pack - it's fiddly and you need to spot weld the connectors between the batteries. There are operations around which will do this work for you as well, but you may not be able to find one locally. My Ikelite Strobe Battery Rebuild - Tutorials, How-Tos, DIY - WaterPixels

Exactly what I would suggest doing, this is the applicable part of the RF N100 port chart: You then use the 4.33" dome and the applicable zoom gear with that from the EF N120 port chart. And yes you just add the needed extension to use the Canon 8-15 and the appropriate extension and zoom rings. If you use the 4.33" port with the 8-15 it needs 10mm less extension than the 140mm dome port. As far as an ikelite battery goes sourcing one out of the US might be required. Backscatter have them listed on their website, seems that the same pack is used on all strobes?? There are also videos floating around with instructions on how to re-pack them with NiMH cells.

It does depend on what market you are in, but if you are looking at R7, then unfortunately Nauticam is the only game in town though. Isottta have a good presence in Australia and are well priced in that market - you would only be looking at them for R6 as they don't have an R7 housing. Regarding support - realistically housings don't often need repairs and the Isotta housing are quite simple compared to Nauticam and easier to service if its needed To work out what you can do with your existing dome we would need to know which specific dome it is. If you get the Nauticam housing and the 35.5mm N100-N120 adapter then you go to the EF port chart to work out which dome and extension you need. If it's a Nauticam or even a Zen dome, I expect you should be able to use it. You could use it with either the Tokina or the 8-15 -being in Japan finding a used lens should be straight forward for either option. Regarding space if you go the R7 route you only have the R7 body as an "extra" - you could always put it in the housing - I know many are adamant you shouldn't do this, but I travel with my OM-1 inside the housing and have not had any issues as I am able to keep it with me at all times. The R6 you would probably be looking at the 140mm dome which isa little bigger and definitely the 8-15 which is a heavy little lump of glass. The R7 of course would take all your EF land lenses with a crop multiplication of course, good for tele lenses, not so good for Wide angle, or even leave the R6 at home depending on what other shooting you might have the opportunity to do. Regarding Ikelite strobes, you only need the appropriate bulkhead on the housing to connect the cables. Isotta has 3 M16 holes to use. They can be any M16 bulkhead. Nauticam has two M14 and one M24 - which is adaptable to M16. If the 70D has a single M16 port you will be able to transfer your current cables and bulkhead across on either option.

If it was me I'd be looking elsewhere for flights to the Maldives, all the Gulf airports are shutdown now, who knows how long before they open again? and will they remain open? Looks like you can connect through London and Istanbul among other places and I recall BA has a pretty generous carry on allowance. Travel insurance probably doesn't help if the airport closes due to war. The gulf airlines may normally be your best value, but if you hate spending on air travel you'll potentially hate being out of pocket due to travel disruptions even more. The point with domestic is many people may need to connect to a hub to depart internationally and once they are airside they remain that way at their connecting airport and are less likely to be hassled over baggage again and most international airports outside the US you only go through transfer screening when connecting who aren't going to hassle you over baggage allowances.

Depends on where you are flying from and which airline, many budget airlines weigh baggage, it's a revenue stream for them to force you to check the bag. In my experience in the US on domestic flights it's a free for all and you need to be in an early boarding group to get overhead locker space, if you then transfer to an international flight you are usually home free. Basically you need to research rules and book accordingly. Of course if you can afford business class most airlines leave you alone.

To illustrate the costs I looked at backscatter. an R7 camera plus Nauticam housing and the N100-N120 adapter is $6229 uses your current mini dome. An R6 Nauticam housing (conversion kit seems to be free) plus 140mm dome plus the required 30mm extension is $7600 (using your camera) An Isotta R6 housing (no kit needed) plus 40mm extension plus 4.5" dome is $4653 (using your camera) An Olympus OM-1 II body plus Isotta housing plus 40mm ext with knob plus 20mm extension plus 4.5" dome is $5730 plus a Metabones adapter about $600. All prices are from Backscatter wesbite. These leave out the lens you will use - all the same assuming using a Canon 8-15 in each case also no zoom gear though Isotta zoom gears are a bit cheaper. The R7 and OM-1 allows zoom, the R6 doesn't but you could add a 1.4x for limited zoom.

I'd still suggest adding up the costs, the premium for full frame housings is significant. Also look at what it would take to go with Isotta, their housings are significantly cheaper. I owned Canon gear when I bought my first housing and went with Olympus as the overall cost was less, you can get away with smaller domes, the lenses are cheaper and smaller for travel. Just enter everything in a spreadsheet, ask us if you are not sure on configurations. Regarding zooming I don't know what you usually shoot, reef scenics and fish swarming around corals are generally good with an straight fisheye at 15mm FF equivalent. You can also use the Sigma 15mm fisheye. I found that things likes schools of Barracuda above sea mounts, larger pelagics etc certainly benefited from the ability to zoom as did closing in on an anemone full of clownfish. On the question of zooming a fisheye unless you have very deep pockets or perhaps shoot Sony, doing it on full frame is very expensive and the common solutions only work on smaller formats - this is the reason for suggesting this. You can add a Kenko 1.4x for some limited zoom from 11-15mm as marked on the zoom ring to the 8-15. On the OM-1 which I use with the 8-15 you get full zooming capability. From a travel-ling perspective, going for an R7 your only addition is another body and spare battery, you be carrying your choice of fisheye regardless. with smaller formats your mini dome will likely be fine saving more space and weight. You'll have a housing anyway and you'll have your land lenses whichever system you use. You could choose to use the 8-15 or the 10-17 both will work with APS-C and the 8-15 has a lock to lockout zooming wider than 10mm when on an APS-C body. Lots of people on here swear by the 10-17 and it quite a bit cheaper. But either way it's only a body you'd be buying extra, you'll need a housing whichever way you go.

Do you need 17"? the 12" domes are more affordable, about $US1500 delivered assuming you'll need to pay duties on the way in.

Changing batteries occasionally is less work than dealing with the o-rings and potential corrosion of the contacts, you need to remove the cables regularly so the threads don't seize. so change a few times a year or maintain the cables after every dive session.

There really isn't an equivalent to the Tokina lens in full frame and Canon unfortunately. The WWL is certainly an option - but in Canon that means going with the WWL-C and the Canon 24-50 in FF which is not the sharpest knife in the drawer, plus in my mind the WWL only sort of substitutes for a fisheye as the angle of view is quite a bit less - horizontal field of the fisheye is about 144° while the WWL is about 122° and the barrel distortion that pushes the subject forward in the frame and gives it prominence is starting to be less noticeable. You do get a little more reach with the WWL compared to the 10-17. (The Nikon 24-50 is a much better lens) I'm assuming you are not in the market for the $$$$ fisheye conversion port. So what to do if you want to re-create the 10-17? First option is to find a second hand 10-17, should be straight forward to find a nice copy in Japan and use it on an EF-RF converter with an R7. Unfortunately a bit pricey though and Nauticam have handily changed to N100 port system on that model, meaning you would need the pricey 35.5mm N100-N120 adapter which you could use your current port on. The N100-N120 is half the price of a WWL though! Ikelite and Nauticam are the only options for an R7. Next alternative might be an OM-1 (Mk I or II) in an Isotta housing used with an adapted 8-15., yes it's a smaller sensor, but IMO the image quality is a step up on a D70 and good enough for most purposes. It works really well with the adapted 8-15. Isotta as the components are much cheaper to house an adapted 8-15 this route. The 8-15 is an excellent option in this format and exactly replaces a 10-17 and adds some reach at the long end with excellent optical quality a very flexible setup. You could use an 8-15 on a R6 but you'd not have any zoom capability for CFWA or more reach for shyer subjects but you might be able to use your current dome. The 8-15 is either 8mm circular of 15mm full frame 180° diagonal fisheye. The Nauticam R6II housing is about $1700 more than the Isotta at Backscatter. With the R6 MkI though your only option in new housings appears to be Isotta or Ikelite, Nuaticam seems discontinued. Some older Nauticam domes can be adapted to Isotta, but you may want something bigger than a mini dome for FF, probably the 140mm in Nauticam. We've already talked about a WWL-C with this above. I suggest you add what you would need to spend with each option to see what you would be up for. The issue is that anything in full frame gets expensive quite fast, smaller formats are much more affordable in aluminium housings.

That can work, but I found to dry a housing off thoroughly it took about half a scuba tank using the blower nozzle the resort had on site.

Thanks, seems like it's a good thing I don't need to modify mine.

Interesting, I have 36064, the 34.7mm N85-N120 adapter and the serial number is below the cutoff listed in the Seatech link posted, this is what I have and as far as I can see the adapter (purchased secondhand) has not been modified: I use it with a 35mm extension ring type II quite happily (ignorance is bliss after all) and I've done a couple of trips using it and everything works fine as far as I can tell. It makes me wonder what the incompatibility issue is actually is? According to the instructions this is the new style locking block and it seems to have a shorter tab: As I said the locking block in the photo works with my type II 35mm N120 extension ring.

I stumbled across an Instagram post from Tobias Freidreich talking about housing maintenance and he mentioned using a Wolfbox mini blower, which is usually used to clean out PCs, keyboards etc. This is the blower: Wolfbox AUElectric Air Duster –110000RPM Super Power | WOLFBOX MF50WOLFBOX MF50 Electric Air Duster with 110000RPM super power. Perfect for electronics, keyboards, cars, and outdoor cleaning. Order now and make cleaning simple! It is a Li ion rechargeable model and does put out a lot of air. I tried it out for the first time today blowing my Nauticam housing dry after a long soak. It develops good velocity using the smallest nozzle and really moves the water droplets quite quickly. In a couple of minutes I had blown the housing completely dry, I hovered it vertically over each button and along each seam and used it to clear out water from behind the latch and all the crevices and around the vacuum valve cover. I also tried it out blowing out the 0-ring grooves. I found it performed pretty well , you need to go over the housing a few times as each new bit of water you blow out of crevices needs to be blown off the housing surface. All in all it is a big improvement of the rocket hand bulb I've been using and it's nice and portable for travel. A full blow down uses a good percentage of the available charge though. It actually seems more efficient than using a scuba tank with a duster attachment to blow off water. I think it's a worthwhile addition and would recommend it. This process of blowing off all the water droplets is important to help prevent the white coating that tends to appear on anodized housings over time. If water droplets are allowed to dry the salts in the water concentrate and start to etch the coating. It also seems efficient in blowing out residual water behind buttons and various controls. Here's a pic of it with my housing: Uploading Attachment... It should help keep you housing looking good and have a longer life. Usual disclaimer, no relationship to vendor, just happy customer. Searching for Wolfbox air duster will bring up lots of vendors. They do have a bigger more expensive model, but this one seems quite adequate for the job. Uploading Attachment...

Further to this topic I recently purchased a mini blower to blow the housing dry, seems to work pretty well. I'm posting a mini review.

Yes that's the one, to bad it can't be used then, may work on other brands perhaps?

My MFO3 came with an M67 adapter, seems to be a different one to the one you linked in your post, the glass sits back behind the end of the adapter when it is installed, so should attach to most any M67 accessory.

I'm using the MFO3, took it to Lembeh last year and got quite a bit of use out of it. Also using it in Sydney diving. On the same dive I could swap between shooting a gyrating Harlequin sweetlips with 60 and a 500mm long trumpet fish adding on the MFO3. The reason for using it is you have the 60mm capability when you need and can switch pretty quickly to the 36-37mm focal length of the MFO3, you don't get that reach with the 14-42 and macro is more of a challenge. It seems to me there are advantages to be able to shoot the smallest fish with the 60mm over the 14-42. Focusing seems very straight forward with the MFO3, I didn't notice any hunting when using it and if you look at the EXIF you are shooting between 2m and infinity on the lens as reported in the EXIF for the most part (the subject is of course much closer) . This is the range where the 60mm is quite snappy. I would add that the 14-42 once you get to the long end is reported to be not the sharpest knife in he drawer while the MFO3 is sharp across the frame as it corrects for the aberrations caused by shooting through a flat port. At the 36-37mm focal length the 14-42 would be experiencing those aberrations behind a flat port. Here's a brief review of using the MFO3 with the 60mm macro:

If you look at the colour spaces Macs use DCI-P3 which is a little smaller than Adobe RGB and is extended in reds/yellows more so than blues/green that Adobe RGB covers better. This diagram shows the coverage of various colour spaces:

I agree in principle, One thing that seems apparent there are quite a few flavours of TTL among different strobes, you just have to look at the UWT triggers which have multiple different settings for all the different strobes and a different trigger model for each camera brand. I believe the timings are different with each type of TTL and I suspect this is a reason TTL is regarded as unreliable underwater as up until recently a universal slave TTL was all that was available. I heard somewhere that Olympus RC is open source so it does not need reverse engineering to make it work so in principle UW strobes that work with RC mode will work as well as any Olympus strobe on land when shooting TTL. It was also specifically setup to send TTL commands optically. This is probably the reason it might work a little better.