Chris Ross

The WWL-C as others have said will work with the 12-50. It is still a sizable chunk of glass and you need to work out what to do with it when it is not mounted. Some people here are happy to do this, others less so, it's not like a wet diopter that can go in a pocket and its a big lump to carry on a strobe arm. To mount it Nauticam sells a dedicated M77- bayonet converter. The downside is that it only gets to 110 deg with the WWL-C as it vignettes at 12mm-14mm or so., This is the diagonal field of a 15mm FF lens, but due to the barrel distortion you get the horizontal field of about an 18mm FF lens, so it would be like a 9-18 Olympus with a bit more reach. If you want something in between you could look at something like the 12-40 - I use it a bit diving around Sydney, the 12-45 is also an option, they get to about 0.3x up close to the dome and are sharp and contrasty lenses which will work in smaller ports as they are only 24mm equivalent. Part from the you are getting into needing an N120 port with Nauticam for the likes of the 8-25 and 7-14 - nice lenses but even the 170-180 ports are a little small for them to do their best. In fact the Olympus 12-40 getting 0.3x is very close to the 12-50 in macro mode. I've heard of people using it in 140mm domes.

They do indeed look like dust Dust can be highly variable in the way it appears based upon the lens and f-stop being used. I currrently have a dust spot on my sensor of my old ME-1 MkII. Here it is at f22 (300mm lens): and the same area at f4: and here at f8 with the 90mm macro: You can see that it is much less noticeable at wide apertures, the worst lens I came across for highlighting dust was the MP-e 65 Canon lens - it could do up to 5x and at that magnification every speck of dust was sharply defined. This speck seems to be something sticky that got blown in when the lens was off, I tried cleaning it but it doesn't want to move. Just look at the RH spot, the LH spot is a darker area on the wall. Olympus sensors are usually very good at staying clean, they have a vibration system to shake off dust and it it is mostly extremely effective, but if a liquid spray or something sticky like some pollens get on they can cement on. You do need to be careful cleaning OM sensors as they float the the sensor for IBIS and the mechanism can be damaged unless you park the sensor. Your pattern looks like very small liquid droplets or mist has hit the sensor, based upon the pattern of dots.

I have seen it written multiple times and people have enquired and confirmed the coating is on the inside only. The coating won't be doing much for you if it is etched like that anyway.

They are both One World so the JAL status should count for some extra allowance on Malaysian ? It always pays to read the fine print and know the rules.

I now blow the water droplets off my port, I purchased a mini blower designed for computer equipment and similar and it blows the droplets off, follow by a soft microfibre cloth to leave the surface clean and bright. The slats concentrate up as the water evaporates and particularly if the salts in the water are alkaline the can etch glass. By all means try out the cerium oxide, but if that does not work, I have heard the costs for new glass are not that high.

Site is down for me, also checked downforeveryone and it reports it down.

working for me currently - using Windows/Firefox

The only issue with lens stabilisation would be the fact that it is a ~35mm lens instead of a 60mm lens at least for the MFO3. The MV60 should be a similar multiplier as it is made for the same job so it should perform the same way a far as stabilisation goes. It is a camera thing rather than anything to do with the MFO3/MV60. I haven't tested video which may have different problems, but you can manually change the focal length in the menus of the OM-1.

Welcome Shaina, hope you find the forums helpful. Post a topic in Photo gear to ask your question. It's always good to have a budget in mind as this type of photography can get very expensive very fast. With this in mind also think about what you will do with your images, my view is most people don't need full frame unless they have a specific use in mind and this is important as in general it's much more expensive to get full frame UW, there are exceptions of course and the size and weight can become a big factor.

That description is correct. I would ask have you ever used lens like the 28-60 with a diopter? You can achieve 0.7x at 83mm , but it only shows a focused image between 83 and 135mm and much outside that range it’s really blurred. It works but it is not the same as using a macro lens. Housings can be hard to aim sometimes and with a true macro you can back up, find the subject and keep focusing as you move in . Basically easier to use . You can produce nice images with both, but a dedicated macro lens is always going to be sharper. The macro plus MFO3 gives flexibility to shoot critters from 5-10mm size all the way up to about 300-500mm.

Update - I was told it's revised glass, they don't seem to be claiming any improvement for it.

the old MFO3 spec: and the new: specs seem identical??

welcome to the forums Sharyn, hope you enjoy and find them useful. What's your local dive site?

Another review can be found here along with the article linked: https://waterpixels.net/articles/articles_news/pre-release-breakdown-of-the-new-sony-fe-8-14mm-f35-fisheye-g-r201/#findComment-561

If you find the camera in Ebay you should be able to filter for completed sales and that should list what they were sold for. I still have my 1D MkIV, solid camera, you could use it as a hammer in a pinch but my m43 sensor beats it out and does so much more and it's 1/3 of the size and weight! I think with Ebay and older stuff there's a lot of variation as no one wants them and good prices are random events. It just depends on who is looking and whether they know how to look up past sales.

Yes it depends what you are shooting! A 230mm dome is a big beats of a thing to travel with. As I recall you were shooting archeological sites, I guess you could crop some or zoom in a bit and do mosaics. You could always look into the new Seacam precision port but it currently only works with a Nikon 16-35 I believe, it'll do a great job at emptying your wallet though! But seriously, I recall you mentioned you thought a 20-24mm lens might do what you wanted and it will play better with a 180mm dome - The Sony 20-70 is one that a few people on here like.

Welcome onboard Brett, good to see you here!

There's a few posts on the various Sony 16-35 zooms on the forum, as I recall the 16-35 ones that focus very close do OK in 180mm domes. You could look at UWPMAG back issues, @Phil Rudin has reviewed many of the 16-35 options available in there, Here's a link to his 16-25 zoom review. https://waterpixels.net/forums/topic/1877-nauticam-support-for-sony-16-25-f28-g-and-laowa-10mm-f28-af-lenses/#findComment-17652 I recall he also reviewed the 16-35 PZ lens.

It appear to be slightly smaller diameter but close to the same length. this video has some footage ahowing the protruding nose of both in the same frame.

They are at 30,60,90,120 degress included angles. It's listed in the how we did our beam pattern test section.

I came across a post from Brett Lobwein on Instagram, with a bunch of pics taken around Sydney: https://www.instagram.com/brett.lobwein/p/DdDCCiNjz1V/ small pics because they are on Instagram but should be of interest.

The whole premise of the 18-45 with the R50 in Nauticam and AOI with the fixed port is to use it with wet lenses, wide is quite OK, the WWL-1 gives a nice range and focuses up to the port. You can get to 0.8x with a 44mm working distance with the CMC-1, all the data is on the port chart here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/15eHIQlhHCVuz8zPu2pzFTHPhgqHwsn0v/view the CMC-1 only focuses between 44 and 81mm so is a bit cludgy compared to a TG-7 in this regard, but certainly it's workable. 44mm working distance is getting a bit small and hard to light though. The CMC-2 would be easier at the cost of only getting 0.6x. These figues would apply equally to the AOI housing, assuming you can mount the right bayonets. Swapping between the WWL and CMC is a bit of an issue, some people are happy to do it, others state they don't want to deal with what to do with the big lump that is the WWL-1B , you need to put it somewhere when you take it off. It can get very close and do semi macro shots though.

Have to wait for the specs to see what the field is as it depends on the projection they have chosen for the design. To get a 180° field the focal length can be anywhere between 11 and 21.5mm. Or put another way 14mm could give anything between 150 and 200° depending on the projection. Most likely though it will hover somewhere around 180°. The 7 Artisans 10mm fisheye gave a full frame 185° field as it was quite a different projection, closer to a rectilinear.