Chris Ross

The problem is it doesn't fit as it has an extension that sticks out: Others have proven the setup of sony 1.4x - metabones smart adapter - Canon 8-15 works. Maybe the Nikon Z 1.4x - FTZ adapter - Nikon fisheye will work?? If the nose of the 1.4x fits inside the FTZ adapter it has a chance.

The USB-C bulkhead is a good solution for charging without opening the case, needs a little care when opening to dry it off and needs somewhere dry to leave the camera on charge. There's a mini review here: If you are comfortable with electronics you could probably make one up from parts like this : https://core-electronics.com.au/polymer-lithium-ion-battery-2000mah-38459.html and this: https://core-electronics.com.au/dc-dc-usb-0-9v-5v-to-5v-dc-boost-step-up-power-supply-module.html and you would need to source an appropriate charger.

When you say it works with a godox flash you mean a godox in the camera hotshoe? The problem with the hotshoes on Sony flashes is the hotshoe connector which is on your flash trigger this one and it's the pins I have indicated that can have problems:

I started using the Canon 8-15 on my OM-1 using the metabones adapter and using the zoom control on the N85-N120 adapter with Wolfgang's adapter for the Nauticam zoom gear a while back now. It all works quite well, but I was never that happy using the zoom knob on the N85-N120 adapter, it always felt coggy and a little awkward to use, plus mine seemed to need inward pressure to avoid disengaging the gears. So looking at the housing and doing some measuring it seemed that I could get a 3D printed gear that would use the the housing zoom control. I adapted a file for a an N85 zoom gear and played around with a CAD program to get roughly where I needed things and contacted member Ross Gudgeon who does 3D printing ( @Gudge ) to ask his help fixing up the rather rough and printing a gear. On the second iteration I have one that works quite well.It takes a little fiddling getting mounted correctly but it's easy enough to do. There are tight clearances and a need to accommodate the lens release and the jog lever on the Metabones and the projecting "viewfinder" hump on the OM-1. I ended up grinding down the jog lever a touch as it was contacting the inside of the gear. End result a zoom gear that works nice and smoothly from the housing control knob. Some pics: You can see how tight it is getting the gear in place here: Tight clearance to the camera body: Thanks to Ross for helping out on this project!

The cap mount certainly looks like it would work, as long as you don't mind drilling into your dome shade. The M5 ball and a ball type go pro mount along with a clamp would allow you place the Go pro close to the axis of the lens by leaning the clamp over at 45° . If you want it taller or closer to centre you could use a long clamp and the height would be adjustable with either option.

Ok for the first circle UWT says you want Mode C. This is turning the dial to 5.6. If you get the blue light and the buzzer it has been changed. For the second circle UWT says you want factory default, which if you have not managed to set should be set. But otherwise follow the steps and select mode 10 - which is one on the dial. As I understand it if you already have to have the intensity dial set at the required setting then just hold the focus light button till the strobe responds. So for you in the first step you are already at 5.6 so leave it there and press the button till you get a response. In all cases if the strobe doesn't respond as indicated start again. You should get the blue light to indicate you are in DS-TTL setting and after setting light dial and holding you get the blue light and buzzer. For the second step it's the same except for the additional step of turning to RC mode. Note that you are setting it work with the UWT trigger - not setting it to work with Canon so you use the settings recommended by UWT. Give it a try and see how you go. To confirm TTL operation you can set camera to rear curtain sync, put camera in manual as low shutter speed like 1 second. Take an image you should see pre-flash at start of exposure and main flash at the end, This is only to test that you are getting pre flash and main flash.

First step is to observe the LEDs to see if they are flashing when you press the shutter button. Check that your hotshoe mount is seated properly as well. Closely inspect the hotshoe, on Sony they have rather fine pins that are easily damaged, see if one of them is bent. Which model do you have the universal with the plug-in LEDs or the Nauticam model? If it's the universal one have you tried swapping between the single and double LED cables? Have you tried it with wireless mode on and off?

Interesting that Nauticam have omitted the cold shoe and M10 mounting points, which could have been used to mount something. You could try one of these to replace one of the ball mounts on your handle: https://www.nauticam.com/collections/mirrorless-housing-accessories/products/accessory-mounting-base-for-handle-with-screws Then add a low profile go pro mount to that.

No problem, good you figured it out. It does appear that the FCP imparts a slight green cast, your strong green cast could be fluorescent lighting?

The new rules don't seem too onerous, just a ziplock for powerbanks and batteries in cases or bags. Though the practicality of banning them from the overhead compartments is questionable,other than that don't use powerbanks while on board. I also found article stating the US wanted to ban Cameras from checked bags - which could be a positive??

This is difficult, the batteries used are the type of product that appears for a few months and fade away and are replaced by higher capacity ones or slightly different. Also some of them go to sleep and don't wake until until you unplug/replug them. This thread talks about the battery for the A6500 hopefully its the same as the A6400 and has sone dead links, it's on the old wetpixel forum: https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/59443-nauticam-battery-pack-problem-a6500/ If you search, start off looking for 2000- 2500 mAhr models. Finding the required short cable with correct plugs may also be a challenge? to start you off this link is to the pack described, not in stock but click on find similar to browse, unfortunately dimensions are not provided, might be a challenge getting one to Europe though? https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ultra-Slim-Ultra-Portable-Ultra-Safe-2500mAh-Wallet-Pocket-Power-Card-Bank-ONE-for-All-External-Mini-Battery-Most-Smart-Phone-Digital-Devices-White-L/217372674

Look at pages 298-299 of the OM-1 pdf manual, sequence is set flash/camera to RC mode, open super control panel (OK button) then select flash mode. You can change to FP there. Tried it with my Olympus flash attached and the response time was quite OK with camera in manual expsoure mode.

The only way I could see to achieve that would be to use a different lens, which is quite restrictive with the R50 housing. I think the only one that would fit is the 50mm f1.8 which would give you a fraction more reach at 80mm equivalent.

This seems very odd, the difference between 1/200@f11 ISO400 and 1/125@f8 ISO1600 is 3 2/3 stops, this is quite a significant difference in light. Cameras might be up to one ISO number out from true ISO, but it is very difficult to see how this could work out to be such a difference in exposure. I'm assuming you were framing the subject the same way for example a dark subject filling the frame will have a different exposure reading to the same subject much smaller in the frame against a white background. Also you were shooting from the same spot and had the same sheets in the background so had the same reflected light? Additionally were they using the same or different cameras to you? Was anyone for example the same lens as you but behind a WACP instead? This review mentions a slight greenish cast and also talks about the more limited depth of field seen with this lens: review on scubaboard some commentary in the comments as well. There is speculation that the aperture when it reads f13 might optically be wider open, but it seems this is the opposite to what you are experiencing.

@Aquatica are you able to answer this question please?

Seems to be an astro-photo oriented lens - giveaway is the lens heater thing it lists in the specs. The min focusing distance is 30cm which is relatively long and generally a sign the lens won't work so well UW and the lens only stops down to f16. Another issue is the lens diameter at 101.9mm, which won't fit through the Nauticam N100 mount and may be tight on some N120 ports - this means the lens would need to be installed after the camera is in the housing and the port placed over the top. I suspect it would perform poorly in a smaller port - Nauticam recommends the monster 250mm for best performance. The other issue for astro orientated lenses is that they are generally optimised for infinity focus. The SIgma 15mm Sony mount fisheye was a non -starter for UW due mediocre close focus performance among other issues. I would suggest checking reviews about its close focus performance first. There's a whole post on 14mm lenses and in particular this post : The point being a 16-35 or 14-30 range zoom is likely a better option, being easier to shoot and more flexible. not to mention smaller cheaper and working better behind a dome and some work quite well behind the 180mm dome. You don't say which camera this is for but there a lot of wide angle zooms about. You could always consider a fisheye lens as well. BTW I'm moving this post to the Photogear & technique forum.

Yes according to the people who use them, I was speaking to one person yesterday and they said they used a pair of generic readers a few diopters stronger than they use on land . If you hold your readers forward on your face you'll see the power slowly decrease with distance but they still focus for you. A few offering them for sale: https://divediversions.com/products/divevue-mount-glasses-to-your-dive-mask https://www.fotosub-shop.com/3600-10bar-maschera-subaquea-con-lenti-diottriche-flippabili.html https://www.see-deep.com/

You are not setting the strobe to pre-flash cancel, the instructions are to set to the correct custom mode in the flash. This is covered in detail on page e-31 of the YS-D3 duo manual, you should get feedback that you have completed the steps per this page. Blue light to say you are in setting mode and then a buzzer and blue light when it has accepted the input. The UWT instructions appear to be saying you want mode C. The instructions also mention setting the light intensity input, but say that factory default is required , so if you haven't touched this you should be fine. You switch to manual mode 2 when shooting in manual and to TTL on the strobe when shooting TTL on the strobe. I assume you have set your strobe type on the trigger , appears to be 9 for TS-D3 duo strobes. Also that you have quality optical fibre cables . Suggest you confirm all this and get back if you are still having problems.

Definitely, you need good closeup vision to see what's going on on a monitor, particularly if you want to confirm focus etc. The best idea I have seen is a pair of readers on a flip frame attached to a go pro mount, just flip them in and out as needed.

I would guess the same performance on Olympus but the black strip appears after about 1/400 as reported my many here for the Nauticam trigger. The main thing is the camera has no clue the trigger is there so won't restrict shutter speed.

Yes there is no ideal solution, particularly if you want to stay small on port size. You could replace the 14-30 with a 24-50 lens plus a WWL-C which is relatively compact, requiring a rather small macro port, the lens and the wet lens. It's doesn't have the bold barrel distortion of the fisheye lens and is sort of equivalent to what you get on the long end of the 8-15 plus 1.4x when the 24-50 is zoomed out fully. A couple of reports on here report they are happy with optical quality. The WWL-C is about the same size as the 140mm dome but a bit more squat and weighs 1kg. it gives horizontal fields between that for a 13mm and a 31mm rectilnear , but with better corners. basically a slightly expanded 14-30 as far as reach goes with some amount of barrel distortion and better corners in a smaller package. It comes close but won't give you that subject pop that fisheye distortion does for your subject.

Sorry about that I missed this earlier - Google drive can be a pain.. I've changed it now here is the link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A68BVmZkVNM9kuGnOIkqE4qp7WKQXkLa/view?usp=sharing

The little S220s are great value little strobes they really are tiny and they have improved them significantly over the prior model. I hope we get as good an improvement out of the eventual Z330 replacement when it finally appears.

The main thing is whether the trigger registers as a flash. If it does the camera takes over and says no setting SS over 1/250. Then the Trigger has to pretend to be a flash to allow include high speed sync as an option and let you raise the shutter speed.

Again in wide angle depth of field is not the issue, the corners are soft due to dome port optics often combining with corners from the lens that are a little soft even on land. The WWL lens corner is soft due to the optics, it's not depth of field. Less depth of field in fullframe is a concern in macro, CFWA and shooting wider open than about f8. A fisheye as Tim says is generally not noticeable UW, there are exceptions which you learn to avoid. A big advantage of fisheyes is they pretty much force you to get closer. Water between you and your subject is a problem. The first rule of UW photography is get close. The second rule is if you think you are close enough, get closer. Sounds like you are determined to go full frame - if you are concerned about travel weight the A7C would be a good option and as you have seen produces nice images. Just be sure you check the downsides of the A7C, like slower sync speeds etc. there are posts about it on site. Remember rectilinears are difficult to deal with, some of the Sony lenses work quite well in the 180mm dome, others not so well, once you go ultra wide beyond about 16mm perspective can start to be an issue. this is distortion and stretching of foreground objects. An extreme example is the 10mm laowa lens. See this post: https://waterpixels.net/forums/topic/1313-14mm-rectilinear-lens-guide-the-true-must-have-uw-lens-more-important-than-fe-lenses-or-wcap-wwl-fcp-etc/#findComment-9553 Also the Nauticam 180mm dome geometry is such that with a lens correctly positioned at the centre of curvature will vignette if it is wider than 16mm. So the entrance pupil of a 14mm rectilinear wide needs to be placed forward of the centre of curvature otherwise it vignettes. Most people find 16mm easier to deal with and the eligibility of the 16-35 lenses helps. With a fisheye you can be more compact using the 140mm dome and get better image quality.