Chris Ross

Don't confuse what is used to sell equipment with what actually works best or what is actually needed, plenty of examples of that around like 100 MP phone cameras. I believe there is some use in high nit ratings for example punching specular highlights above the screen average brightness to make them closer resemble what you actually see in the real world. But you don't want large areas of the screen punching that high as it will dazzle you. Good TVs can distinguish between specular highlights and large bright areas to achieve that. But a lot is driven by marketing and also OLEDs are more limited in brightness output than traditional screens and traditional screen makers push brightness numbers they know OLED makers can't and don't need to match to try to compete.

It could be due to colour temp limitation or could be due to technique of WB reading, from what I understand the exposure used for WB needs to be a "good" exposure and it should be taken in same light as your subject. Same light means in this context at about the same distance. I assume you are shooting ambient light as you didn't mention lights so the effect may not be as big, but if you take a WB image of a slate on your wrist you could be shading the slate with the camera and your body. The fact that you get UW auto to work tends to indicate an issue with the way WB is being done, normally I wouldn't expect the colour temperature range to be significantly greater in auto compared to what can be set manually. Perhaps a white patch on your fin could be used - it would be closer to subject distance and could be oriented to get a shot in same light as subject. I'm assuming UW auto is an option available for WB from the camera menu.

I will add that the Tokina is currently a no go on Z series cameras as it's screw drive lens, so even on an APS-C Z series and the ZF adapter it can't AF. I wouldn't worry about spares, housings tend to use the same hardware for all of their buttons so I would expect them to be around for a while. My EM-1 MkII Nauticam housing has not been serviced and was purchased in 2017. If you want something more future proof you could also look at Isotta housings as well, a good housing but the internals are a bit simpler to the point they can be serviced yourself.

Welcome on board Tess, great to have another Aussie and a temperate water diver at that onboard.

We are not at all interested in who started it, I made it clear this was directed at both of you. It is OK to disagree with other viewpoints and there is no requirement for you to agree or disagree with what Massimo posts or vice versa - it's called robust discussion. If you disagree state your arguments as to why you disagree, back it up with logic and examples and leave it there. No name calling or insults. Feel free to continue to discuss respectfully, however cross the line and as Tim says the thread is locked.

This format can be frustrating for photographers however it can readily be addressed with some research. For example the Lembeh dive resorts operate somewhat differently with group sizes of 2-4. Their method is to find a subject for you and then once you have settled , go to find the next subject while you are working on your shots. Then they return to take you to next subject. You can also pay a premium for a private guide. Many of the Lembeh strait operations publish their policies for this.

@RomiK The cease and desist is directed at you in particular, do you not understand the request to stop throwing insults around and stick to the subject matter? Massimo is allowed to disagree with you as you are with him but we are requesting both of you do it by clearly and calmly stating your cases. If you can't solve it that way please agree to disagree.

Please do. And to both of you just to be totally clear phrases like : "I’ve tried to help but no more 🤦‍♀️ you really are full of …." " so you you conclude in your own little brain that the things just can’t be" " but that’s ok we all need to live in the world of trolls … 🤦‍♀️" "And if not why don't you just shut up? It is simple as that" "The AVIF file you linked looks horrible too and nothing to call your mama about" Are not staying on subject, they are attacks on the messenger and don't help you argue your case. Please refrain from such attacks.

Guys, can we tone it down a little please, please attack the subject rather than than each other. Robust discussion is quite welcome on the forum, however name calling and other types of personal attack are not. This is not about who is right or wrong and whether HDR is indeed useful UW, rather it's about showing each other a measure of respect. Please try to state your arguments clearly to defend your position with facts data and examples, calling the other person an idiot doesn't prove you are right.

I recall a post from someone looking for a replacement battery for the Nauticam solution on WP a while back. I suspect the reason it was discontinued is because the power pack they were using was no longer available and nothing on the market would fit there. The issues seems to be that the power packs change size, shape, colour capacity, features etc, literally every 12 months. The USB C connector solution seems to be the best option available, won't fit everything but it will allow you to charge battery and download photos without opening the housing.

Believe winds are up in September from the south so getting to the resort and the out to the dive spots not as pleasant, but improves by October. Strong south winds may impact which sites they go to. I've not been but a friend of mine who has been many times goes to this place: https://papua-diving.com/ . He does a lot of dive travel and has been there a number of times, Cape Kri is their house reef. I'm planning on going next year.

The leak detector is quite simple, just a circuit that detects increased conductivity when you bridge the terminals with a little water, it would have negligible current use unless it activates. So I would think quite safe to leave the battery in place. Regarding the vacuum circuit, the Nauticam system is quite good but the system you have also works. You could install the the Nauticam circuit probably fiddly but possible, though installing the LED my be a little tricky, you might be able to use the LED window on your current housing for this purpose, if the LED supplied fits. It will depend if you can find room to mount all the needed components. You would get similar functionality to the Nauticam system with a Vivid Leak Sentinel and it would be a lot easier to install as it only needs a free M14 or M16 port, you would likely install where you have your current vacuum valve.

It's going to be hard to tell what's happening from photos, obviously the mechanism is partly hidden. You would need to turn the knob back and forth and confirm which parts move inside and feel how things move in there. So confirming that the knob turns the camera rear dial that would be the smooth knob directly below the vacuum valve in your photo, outlined in red here: The parts outlined in blue look like the parts that control the two dials and they would be the parts you would be looking to remove. Looking at the following view of the housing it appears this might be the drive train outlined in red: You would need to confirm that by checking if the shaft rotates when you operate the knob. Before you start pulling it apart it is probably best to confirm if you can buy the needed parts, perhaps you could contact Backscatter or Reef as they seem to to service Nauticam gear to see if they can provide the needed parts and assistance with how to install them.

Most sources say that the vacuum light goes green at 200 mbar which is about 5 in Hg. 15 in Hg is probably a bit too much and I would stick to around 5". Regarding fogging, aluminium housings are generally a lot less prone to fogging, but it can still happen. It depends on how humid the air is when you close the housing. 4°C is quite cold so you would want fairly dry air inside the housing to guarantee it won't fog on you. For example if the air is 20°C and the relative humidity 30% then the dewpoint is right about 4°C. This chart allows you to estimate the dewpoint: https://www.hardwareinterviews.fyi/t/why-does-condensation-form-on-the-outside-of-cold-glass-on-a-hot-day/19/2 Start at dry bulb temperature and go up vertically to the relative humidity (blue line) then horizontally across to the the 100% RH curve. This provides the dewpoint temperature of the air and when it cools to that temperature, water starts to condense. As to what to do about it it would depend on your atmospheric conditions on the day the hotter and more humid the air the more likely it is to fog. An easy way to help is to purge the housing with air from a scuba tank which should be bone dry immediately before closing up. The vacuum will also help a little. Aluminium housings normally don't fog as the metal gets cold quicker than the glass and the moisture if any will condense on the metal walls. I recall that some triggers switch themself off when the camera is off, There was a post on this topic a little while back- possibly on Wetpixel? Can't say for certain about the nauticam, but I recall they have a very long battery life.

Cameras, lenses, adapters etc you can generally price looking at Ebay auction results, filtering for completed sales. You could also look at Keh.com or other second hand stores and ask for a little less than them as they offer warranties on items they sell. Directions for doing this on Ebay here: https://litcommerce.com/blog/how-to-see-sold-items-on-ebay/ I usually look for completed items. Another factor to consider is that camera specific items like housings will realise a lower % of new price than items like your 45° viewfinder which can be used on nearly any Nauticam housing. Similarly for strobes, domes and WACP which are more widely able to be used regardless of camera brand/model.

You might need a new o-ring for the knob and you should use new c-rings if you disturb any, they are mainly used on button shafts to secure them to any internal levers used. Nauticam housing are known to be difficult to to service due to the complicated mechanisms inside. How you deal with it will vary depending on how accessible the knob is and whether you need to remove other internals to access the knob itself. Often the motion is transmitted to the the camera knob by a gear train. This means that the stiffness my be the knob itself or there could be an issue with the gear train and internal wheel. This is a snip of the internals of the A7RIII housing: I assume you are referring to one of the knobs shown here, either exp comp or rear dial (the knob for rear dial only just appears above the housing in this shot). The mechanism for this dial is buried beneath several other mechanisms and it is hard to tell from this image just what would need to be removed to allow it to be serviced. It appears the drive for the rear dial is transmitted by the shaft at the top of the image. On my housing the drive knob is in a spring loaded assembly with cap screws securing it to the housing body. I highlighted what appears to be the drive wheel for the rear dial and you might be able to remove that assembly to check it. You would need to examine it closely to determine how each component is secured and disassemble in the correct order. The tools required should be straight forward, the difficulty is removing other mechanisms which might be in the way and re-installing them correctly.

Yes I'm using the Metabones and it seems to work in C-AF, haven't tried the tracking modes though. If I recall correctly I downgraded the firmware to get it working on a big Canon Tele lens. AF seems quite rapid with the 8-15, haven't used it anywhere that would require any sort of tracking though.

Is the knob difficult to turn with the housing empty? Or only when the camera is loaded?

Yes that is correct, the 8-15 used a 30mm extension with the 140mm dome, I have an old version of the Canon EF port chart open in my browser now. I also opened the new one and it is now one long page instead of being divided into pages like the old one and cuts off suddenly in the middle of page 7 of 9 and the listing for the Sigma 14-24 is cut in half. Seems like the obversion to pdf might have failed somehow and it cuts off a few Zeiss lenses, the Tokina 10-17, Nikon 10mm as well as the 8-15 fisheyes and the Sigma fisheye.

Thanks!, lighting is pretty standard 10 and 2 lighting close in and a bit behind the port. They are quite small in the range of 35-55mm total length, the way to spot them seems to be that they are slightly out of sync with the surge.

One of the critters unique to Sydney divesites is the Sydney pygmy pipehorse, they are quite small and cryptic and apparently restricted to the coast south of Sydney NSW. They are so cryptic that it takes real experience to find them and they can "disappear" seconds after you have been shown precisely where one is. Lucky enough to dive recently with a diver who routinely finds up to 40 individuals on a dive at The Steps, right at the entrance to Sydney's Botany Bay and got a lot of photos of individuals with varying colouration. They range in length from 30 to 55mm long and colour varies in shades or reds, pinks, white and green-brown shades. To add to frustrations they sway just a little out sync with the surge and squirm a bit following food items, plus their eyes also swivel rapidly and there's plenty of shots where the pupil can't be seen as it is looking behind.

Processing time for me is quite variable, the longest step is if the shot needs backscatter removal or other re-touching. But a properly exposed photo should mostly be done in a few minutes IMO. what step is taking the most time? I would suggest if you are fussing over a particular aspect stop and do a different shot or walk away and come back to re-visit it later. It can be easy to get caught in a vicious cycle correcting one aspect only to undo good work you've done elsewhere. One thought is to post a photo you are struggling with and do a how would you process post inviting others to process it and tell you what they have done. My workflow consists of levels/colour correction followed by contrast adjustments - I use luminosity masks in full photoshop. I generally end up with a levels layer and 2-3m masked curves layers The luminosity mask allow you to adjust shadows, highlights and midtones separately. With this process step one is backscatter, the luminosity mask is prepared from the image so removing backscatter later can cause problems

to be fair they are all cropped somewhat, the corners are not perfect, but there is also little of interest down there and when viewed as part of the whole frame totally not noticeable. here is a centre and corner 100% crop from one of the images at 12mm FL, for those who would like to indulge in some pixel peeping. Both are approx 800px wide 100% crops. you can see the corners improve quite rapidly away from the extreme corners and they do look better than the little Panasonic 8mm fisheye lens. At 8mm the corners seem slightly better. 100% crops out of most cameras of course look a little ordinary.

Thanks Justin and to answer question, no not as yet, my problem is that on local dives which is 90% of my diving I rarely shoot more 0.5x, most of the critters I manage to find are larger, even the pygmy pipehorses while small don't need that much magnification.

Took the OM-1 plus Canon 8-15 rig for it's first dive off Sydney on the weekend a couple of deep sites about 500m offshore. Rig is noticeably heavier than using the 12-40 plus Zen dome and I'm now running about 1.7kg of buoyancy to get it very slightly negative, previously using about 0.75 kg. Here's some samples from the dives, First up some Giant Cuttlefish: and some colourful sponge gardens