Chris Ross

The thing to be aware of regarding housing sizes is that Nauticam designed the mirrorless housings so that the EF-RF adapter ( or the FTZ for Nikon) sits inside the housing with the adapter flange at the same position as the EF-camera flange. This means that the EF lenses use the same ports and extensions and zoom gears as they did with the DSLR housings. This means the housings are bigger from front to back. Marelux never made DSLR housings so was free to design from scratch on housing size. I would also mention that Isotta makes particularly compact housings, I a diver who got the Nikon Z6 housing rather than Nauticam because the overall package was so much smaller and lighter. Regarding the WWL-1B, this thread discusses WWL on other systems: The MFO/SMC are m67 and are covered in the thread as well.

The answer was that both SMC and MFO correct for the air water interface across the port. If you used both you would have double correction, which would reduce image quality.

Ikelite is made in USA as far as I know. probably quite a few imported bits and pieces in the mix I would guess.

OK I just dug out the manual and read it again and it made my brain hurt but, yes it (ACC) works in manual mode and switches off in TTL mode. The INON strobe magnifies the pre-flash so the camera puts out a lower power main flash. The fact that they have two manual modes now means either they have given up on ACC and have regular flash cancel or the ACC bastard switch has been combined into one of the manual modes.

I think it may be more like the existing S-TTL and S-TTL low which are there on the current dials of Z240 and Z330, I can't see a reason for switching off ACC unless it doesn't work well with some cameras. The fact the ACC switch has gone and been replaced by two manual modes suggests a regular manual mode and one which ignores the pre-flash.

What INON does and it doesn't explain this very well is that it gives a somewhat brighter pre-flash so that the camera sees this and turns down the main flash as it thinks the subject is closer. When the strobe fires for the main flash the ACC adjusts for a longer pulse than what the strobe on the camera delivers to get the right exposure. ACC stands for Advanced Cancel Circuit. This may seem strange, but they do this so that the on camera strobe uses less battery power as it turned down for the main flash. This is largely around dealing with compact cameras without manual mode on their built in flash and small batteries which pretty much don't exist any more, even the TG-6 offers manual flash. So effectively they don't have a pre-flash cancel. If you push the button in on TTL it still works but you don't get the battery savings and the strobe exactly mimics the duration of both flashes. The ACC button (aka bastard button) is required as the strobe will treat the single manual pulse as a pre-flash and won't fire the main flash as it doesn't receive the second signal. The strobe fires when this happens and syncs properly but the exposure is way too low and seems to be about equivalent to about 2 on the power dial. Just speculating that they may not include ACC on the new strobe and have just gone to a regular pre-flash cancel setup so the strobe doesn't fire on the pre-flash. On the question of TTL, all digitals require pre-flash as far as I know as they need something to set flash power. In the bad old days film cameras had TTL that shut off when they registered enough light reflecting off the film surface. Apparently doesn't work reliably on digital sensors.

If the so-called bastard button is gone, you need to have two manual modes - pre-flash/no pre flash, which is the way it is setup on S&S strobes. The Z-240 has two TTL modes - one was a low powered option. Interesting to see how it performs when they finally release it.

You could try these, they make them to order and not overly expensive, I had one made for my Zen 170mm dome: https://bennimd.com/products/custom-dome-port-covers

It won't mount on the lens due to the protruding front element, the Kenko TCs are designed without this protruding element so they can be used on a wider range of lenses.

No worries, assume you have set the UWT board to mode 9 already. > Have you tried changing flash expsoure compensation from the camera at all? Try sending Pavel a PM he's quite helpful.

Nauticam clamps are good quality and a lot of people like the ULCS clamps as well.

The problem is it doesn't fit as it has an extension that sticks out: Others have proven the setup of sony 1.4x - metabones smart adapter - Canon 8-15 works. Maybe the Nikon Z 1.4x - FTZ adapter - Nikon fisheye will work?? If the nose of the 1.4x fits inside the FTZ adapter it has a chance.

The USB-C bulkhead is a good solution for charging without opening the case, needs a little care when opening to dry it off and needs somewhere dry to leave the camera on charge. There's a mini review here: If you are comfortable with electronics you could probably make one up from parts like this : https://core-electronics.com.au/polymer-lithium-ion-battery-2000mah-38459.html and this: https://core-electronics.com.au/dc-dc-usb-0-9v-5v-to-5v-dc-boost-step-up-power-supply-module.html and you would need to source an appropriate charger.

When you say it works with a godox flash you mean a godox in the camera hotshoe? The problem with the hotshoes on Sony flashes is the hotshoe connector which is on your flash trigger this one and it's the pins I have indicated that can have problems:

I started using the Canon 8-15 on my OM-1 using the metabones adapter and using the zoom control on the N85-N120 adapter with Wolfgang's adapter for the Nauticam zoom gear a while back now. It all works quite well, but I was never that happy using the zoom knob on the N85-N120 adapter, it always felt coggy and a little awkward to use, plus mine seemed to need inward pressure to avoid disengaging the gears. So looking at the housing and doing some measuring it seemed that I could get a 3D printed gear that would use the the housing zoom control. I adapted a file for a an N85 zoom gear and played around with a CAD program to get roughly where I needed things and contacted member Ross Gudgeon who does 3D printing ( @Gudge ) to ask his help fixing up the rather rough and printing a gear. On the second iteration I have one that works quite well.It takes a little fiddling getting mounted correctly but it's easy enough to do. There are tight clearances and a need to accommodate the lens release and the jog lever on the Metabones and the projecting "viewfinder" hump on the OM-1. I ended up grinding down the jog lever a touch as it was contacting the inside of the gear. End result a zoom gear that works nice and smoothly from the housing control knob. Some pics: You can see how tight it is getting the gear in place here: Tight clearance to the camera body: Thanks to Ross for helping out on this project!

The cap mount certainly looks like it would work, as long as you don't mind drilling into your dome shade. The M5 ball and a ball type go pro mount along with a clamp would allow you place the Go pro close to the axis of the lens by leaning the clamp over at 45° . If you want it taller or closer to centre you could use a long clamp and the height would be adjustable with either option.

Ok for the first circle UWT says you want Mode C. This is turning the dial to 5.6. If you get the blue light and the buzzer it has been changed. For the second circle UWT says you want factory default, which if you have not managed to set should be set. But otherwise follow the steps and select mode 10 - which is one on the dial. As I understand it if you already have to have the intensity dial set at the required setting then just hold the focus light button till the strobe responds. So for you in the first step you are already at 5.6 so leave it there and press the button till you get a response. In all cases if the strobe doesn't respond as indicated start again. You should get the blue light to indicate you are in DS-TTL setting and after setting light dial and holding you get the blue light and buzzer. For the second step it's the same except for the additional step of turning to RC mode. Note that you are setting it work with the UWT trigger - not setting it to work with Canon so you use the settings recommended by UWT. Give it a try and see how you go. To confirm TTL operation you can set camera to rear curtain sync, put camera in manual as low shutter speed like 1 second. Take an image you should see pre-flash at start of exposure and main flash at the end, This is only to test that you are getting pre flash and main flash.

First step is to observe the LEDs to see if they are flashing when you press the shutter button. Check that your hotshoe mount is seated properly as well. Closely inspect the hotshoe, on Sony they have rather fine pins that are easily damaged, see if one of them is bent. Which model do you have the universal with the plug-in LEDs or the Nauticam model? If it's the universal one have you tried swapping between the single and double LED cables? Have you tried it with wireless mode on and off?

Interesting that Nauticam have omitted the cold shoe and M10 mounting points, which could have been used to mount something. You could try one of these to replace one of the ball mounts on your handle: https://www.nauticam.com/collections/mirrorless-housing-accessories/products/accessory-mounting-base-for-handle-with-screws Then add a low profile go pro mount to that.

No problem, good you figured it out. It does appear that the FCP imparts a slight green cast, your strong green cast could be fluorescent lighting?

The new rules don't seem too onerous, just a ziplock for powerbanks and batteries in cases or bags. Though the practicality of banning them from the overhead compartments is questionable,other than that don't use powerbanks while on board. I also found article stating the US wanted to ban Cameras from checked bags - which could be a positive??

This is difficult, the batteries used are the type of product that appears for a few months and fade away and are replaced by higher capacity ones or slightly different. Also some of them go to sleep and don't wake until until you unplug/replug them. This thread talks about the battery for the A6500 hopefully its the same as the A6400 and has sone dead links, it's on the old wetpixel forum: https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/59443-nauticam-battery-pack-problem-a6500/ If you search, start off looking for 2000- 2500 mAhr models. Finding the required short cable with correct plugs may also be a challenge? to start you off this link is to the pack described, not in stock but click on find similar to browse, unfortunately dimensions are not provided, might be a challenge getting one to Europe though? https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ultra-Slim-Ultra-Portable-Ultra-Safe-2500mAh-Wallet-Pocket-Power-Card-Bank-ONE-for-All-External-Mini-Battery-Most-Smart-Phone-Digital-Devices-White-L/217372674

Look at pages 298-299 of the OM-1 pdf manual, sequence is set flash/camera to RC mode, open super control panel (OK button) then select flash mode. You can change to FP there. Tried it with my Olympus flash attached and the response time was quite OK with camera in manual expsoure mode.

The only way I could see to achieve that would be to use a different lens, which is quite restrictive with the R50 housing. I think the only one that would fit is the 50mm f1.8 which would give you a fraction more reach at 80mm equivalent.

This seems very odd, the difference between 1/200@f11 ISO400 and 1/125@f8 ISO1600 is 3 2/3 stops, this is quite a significant difference in light. Cameras might be up to one ISO number out from true ISO, but it is very difficult to see how this could work out to be such a difference in exposure. I'm assuming you were framing the subject the same way for example a dark subject filling the frame will have a different exposure reading to the same subject much smaller in the frame against a white background. Also you were shooting from the same spot and had the same sheets in the background so had the same reflected light? Additionally were they using the same or different cameras to you? Was anyone for example the same lens as you but behind a WACP instead? This review mentions a slight greenish cast and also talks about the more limited depth of field seen with this lens: review on scubaboard some commentary in the comments as well. There is speculation that the aperture when it reads f13 might optically be wider open, but it seems this is the opposite to what you are experiencing.