jlaity

EVF plusses generally outweigh the minuses, but it’s an adjustment. Dynamic range for one, auto-adjusting so you can’t ballpark how bright it actually is without taking your face off the camera for another. On the 5d4 I could see that it was dark through the viewfinder but could usually still see the thing I was focusing in, and make a judgement of how much to crank the exposure. I hear the R5ii is better, but I have the original flavor. But on balance it’s better and having instant playback in the VF is worth the adjustment.

Perhaps Nauticam could send you CAD files for the ports. I'd be interested in one for macro port 94.

Those look pretty sharp to me!

Interested if still available

He didn't mention it in his email, it's buried in his editorial called "150," but this is the last ever issue of Underwater Photo Magazine as Peter is retiring. https://www.uwpmag.com/ will stay open through the end of 2026. I'll miss it as a resource, mostly for photo-oriented trip reports and in-depth equipment reviews. But 2026 hasn't been kind to magazines, even digital ones. So long and thank you.

Now I’ve seen that same error from the web app linked at the top of the page.

I’ve seen this error around 20% of the time I try to visit the site over the past month. Usually from iOS mobile Safari or Brave/Chrome. I know Brave is weird so I’ve tried Safari and seen the same error. I just downloaded the App so I’ll try that for a while to see if it’s better.

Oh, excellent. I need the preflash mod too. I just did a few days of a trip with the strobes in preflash.

Does anyone know how to remove/swap a knob on the Z-330? It looks like there’s a set screw, but the hole goes all the way through. I’d like to change the power knob to anything else (hopefully swap with my Z-240 knob) so it’s a different shape. I’ve been backlighting macro subjects lately, and it’s impossible to keep track of which knob is which when the strobe is upside-down and backwards. I noticed the Backscatter strobes had a feature “the power and mode switches are different shapes!” and hoped I might be able to do that myself.

Could you post a video? I’m a bit worried about letting beta software start writing to my catalog, there is years of work there. Yes it’s backed up, but I still don’t want to test it. Do you select an image in the grid, click search, it fills to the metadata fields, then I can save that or discard it? Does it add to the keywords or replace them?

Here are a few shots with the MFO-3. The black water Crab zoea "stickhead" crab is uncropped. The Lionfish larvae is barely cropped for composition, and the larval Flounder is cropped to maybe 88% of the frame. I've only ever shot 100mm underwater, but I don't notice any image quality difference between the RF 100mm/L with or without the MFO-3. In theory it should be a bit sharper with since it does corner correction. Using it with a teleconverter seems like cross purposes, like walking the wrong way on an escalator and ending up where you started.

“Please call the Bluewater Photo team with any questions, or email us at” Or maybe they scraped the description off Bluewater before trying to scam you? I’d ask Scott if he knows about this site before considering giving them a credit card number.

This is a used Nauticam N120 sized macro port 87. The glass is unscratched. There’s a cold shoe mount on top for a snoot or focus light. The filter rings are in good condition for attaching a flip adapter or water-contact optics like the SMC. The optical quality is great. I’m just using a different-sized macro lens now so it needs a new home. $445 including shipping in the USA only. Reach out with any questions. Thank you.

I think you need to judge the results of the system, not just the lens alone with pincushion charts. The sharpest underwater photos I've seen are WACP-1 with Canon EF 28-70 f/3.5-4.5 or the Nikon equivalent, a modest kit lens.

I borrowed Mike’s “MFO-2” prototype from the first post this week in Anilao, and took it for ~5 day and 3 black water dives. I really liked the flexibility for day/reef dives of switching from the 100 to 60 with the flip adapter. Although I couldn’t open the flip without unscrewing it a bit, maybe something has changed since that prototype. It’s been a long time since I’ve shot with anything besides 100mm and fisheye so that was really nice. The first two BW dives, I wasn’t sure if I liked it. First, it’s very long so I had to move my focus light to the port ball mount where my snoot usually goes. (Over a black water abyss but luckily I didn’t drop anything.) The first night my strobes were pointed straight out like I normally do, but this left a dark area right in front of the lens. I also saw more backscatter than I normally do, maybe because the lens is simply seeing more? Second night, I had the strobes on either side of the port pointed in. I didn’t like the look of those photos, and I also saw some lens flare. On night three I kept the inward lighting but spaced them out further and angled them slightly forward. This had the best results. I was able to get a larval lionfish full frame almost touching the glass and it was still well-lit. I’ll post some examples later if folks are interested. I’m definitely picking one up before our next trip. And I might need that 3D-printed hood as well.