Nauticam NA-A7c housing

23 minutes ago, pbalves said:

You need to have springs that do not allow the buttons to get pressed in only by the external pressure. 
Of course the buttons will need more effort to be pressured on the surface and at shallow deeps.

It's the same on Nauticam.

With standard housing you have to be lucky. While it's rated at 100 meters some housings start to have button problems at 90 or sometimes at 120m everything is OK.

With my previousGH2 GH3 GH4 Nauticam housings never had a problem up to 120 m.

With current GH5 housing I was unlucky somehow. It stops working exactly at 102 meters.

Thank to you guys' helps, I'm close to complete the wet lenses rig. I was quoted these for the 2 strobes, arms and floats. I saw there are multiple nauticam float sizes. Is this the right float size for this A7C rig buoyancy with both CMC-1 and WWL-1B on the same dive? Am I missing anything else for a complete rig? thank you 

I used the Nauticam 70 X 200mm float arms with the WWL-1 and CMC-1 and they seem to be the best fit buoyancy wise.

Mermaid with WWL-1 and equipment photo is with the Nauticam 180mm dome port, Inon Z-330 flashes. 

I received the Nauticam housing. I opened it and played around with the knobs and dials for a bit. After I put it away I found these broken flex plastic, may be an O ring? Kinda freak me out a brand new housing already has something broken and I have no idea what part it is to replace. Could someone help identify what it is?






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They seem the rubber spacers used for a zoom or focus gear

They seem the rubber spacers used for a zoom or focus gear

In the box of the gear they always put extra so you will have leftover

I agree with Davide, those are rubber spacers that secure the zoom gear parts. If you remove the focus/Zoom gear from the lens you will see several around the inner ring that goes around the focus/zoom ring on the lens. they always give you more than you need and some may fallout while installing the gear or just opening the package. The are defiantly not from the housing.

On 4/18/2021 at 9:53 PM, Phil Rudin said:

I used the Nauticam 70 X 200mm float arms with the WWL-1 and CMC-1 and they seem to be the best fit buoyancy wise.

Mermaid with WWL-1 and equipment photo is with the Nauticam 180mm dome port, Inon Z-330 flashes. 

Nice picture. You said you used a 180 dome port. Which focal lenght do use with this dome port? 

To be clear the mermaid photo is with the Sony A7C with the 28-60 kit lens and the Nauticam WWL-1 at 32mm.

The A7C with the Nauticam 180mm dome port has a 40mm extension and is being used with the Tamron 17-28mm F/2.8 zoom lens. Nauticam supports this lens with zoom and focus gears. For best results Nauticam recommends the 230mm fisheye II dome port.

I also used the Rokinon 18mm F/2.8 & 180mm port without any port extension. List lens is not listed on the Nauticam port charts.

Both of these lenses are reviewed in the current issue of uwpmag.com alone with the Sony A7C system.

I was testing the 180mm port using the 77mm  Sea & Sea internal correction lens using a 67mm to 77mm stepup ring to fit the Tamron lens. The attached photo is the original with no cropping and then a crop to show the sharp detail. Also notice that human eye auto focus worked spot on even though I could not see anything but the outline of the diver in the frame in the dark water. The image was shot at ISO-640, F/10, 1/60th sec. The zoom was at 17mm.  

I got my housing and wet lenses. Here are some quick macro with CMC1 and zoom shot. Cant wait for my trip. I’ll play with the strobes next







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Did you get both CMC-1 & 2?

Did you get both CMC-1 & 2?

If you are not aware two CMC-1s or ! plus 2 can be stacked using the 67mm ring that comes with the lens.

I tested this and if you use a CMC-2 with CMC-1 if memory serves you need to install the CMC-2 on the housing and the CMC-1 onto CMC-2.

I tried the rig with the 2 Inon z330 strobe at home and haven’t figured out what’s the best way to set the strobe power. Indoor with low light at night at full strobe setting and 100 ISO seems to work ok.

What’s the A7C preset setting (white AB, ISO…) do you have before entering the water? And what strobe setting do you set for macro vs wide angle?


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You probably shouldn't need full power for your shots - what aperture are you using - I'd expect you want f11-16 or so for macro and maybe f8-11 with the WWL?  At those sorts of apertures my Z-240 is on 8 for macro and 8-11 for wide shots at ISO200.  Note that when dialled around dialled around to 11 it is half a stop off full power, full power only available by turning main mode dial to full.

Also do you tests in close on a subject 300mm away - remember you'll be working close UW.

Following this thread, I had a couple relevant questions with the A7C/NA-A7C.

1) The 37165 N100 port seems to be the proper port with the FE28-60 kit lens, is that correct?

2) I see some reference to issues with firing the S&S strobes using the NA flash trigger. Is TTL the way to go? I have a set of YSD1s that I'd like to avoid replacing of possible. 

2 hours ago, RVbldr said:

Following this thread, I had a couple relevant questions with the A7C/NA-A7C.

1) The 37165 N100 port seems to be the proper port with the FE28-60 kit lens, is that correct?

2) I see some reference to issues with firing the S&S strobes using the NA flash trigger. Is TTL the way to go? I have a set of YSD1s that I'd like to avoid replacing of possible. 

This is the port chart and it lists 37165 for the 28-60:  https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JlkXuosB52ieQrXZ7nLhacZgiks50WLK/view

The S&S YS-D1 as far as I know does not have the triggering issues that the YS-D2 has.  In terms of triggering manual triggering is a lot easier than TTL triggering.  TTL triggering is somewhat camera dependent as all the strobe has to do is copy the signals coming from the camera.  It tends to work better for macro shots.  There are reports though that Sony cameras do TTL better for UW images.  The advantage of manual triggering is repeatability, as long as you strobes are aimed correctly at the same distance to the subject you always get the same amount of light on the subject.   The camera may change the exposure in TTL if you zoomed out to include a lot more water in the frame on the same subject/distance for example.

Whatever you use (TTL or manual) be sure to get good quality 613 core cables - the S&S original and Nauticam cables are reported to be good. 

@ChrisRoss Thanks! That makes sense.

I have had the A7C rig for a few dives now and shared some photos on my new IG account here. I'm a complete noob so I think the camera is more capable than my current photography skill. 

https://www.instagram.com/scubapixel/

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