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It seems like you might be reaching the natural limit for your batteries if this is the case, potentially it's not so much the exposures taken but the time the camera is on, presumably it doesn't go off to sleep at any point in the 4-6 hours. I also see Canon has a new battery out the LP-E6P, this video claims greater run time for a cinema camera using it: Totally Awesome - Canon - What Have You Done - LP-E6P vs...I just watched a great video on youtube by Josh Sattin. In it he compares video runtime performance between the new LP-E6P and the now older LP-E6NH. Since I shoot in 4K 24p most often, this was hug Might be worthwhile getting one of these to try it out and see if you get an improvement?

@Aliens From The Deep I was shooting using my Nikon Z8 in Anilao on blackwater dives ~4 weeks ago, 3-4 shots at a burst at times., with Retra strobes. After shooting blackwater on the Z8, I'm not sure I would ever shoot at f29 (at 1/200). I'm usually at 1/125 (at the fastest) and often even slower (1/80 if it's not fast moving, etc.) unless I'm shooting HSS. And for shooting anything that's partly translucent I'm usually down around at f10 or f11. Only shooting very reflective subjects (like silvery fish) would I be at a smaller aperture.

There's something going on there, at minimum power it should fire off a few bursts before needing to recharge, regardless of aperture you are using. The aperture is a separate problem as it won't burst on min power . A couple of things to try: Try progressively reducing frames/sec See if the camera will allow setting second curtain sync, then do a test shot in a darkened room with the shutter speed around 1 second. This is a handy way to check if a pre-flash is firing, the pre-flash fires first and the main flash at the end of the exposure. It just allows you to see both pulses. I know it "shouldn't" but worth checking. What batteries are you using - eneloop or eneloop pro is generally recommended. How old is your flash trigger - it may have some issues with the Z8 as it has no mechanical shutter?? Try triggering you strobes with a Nikon speedlight as trigger if you have one, test shooting into a mirror so you can see if the strobe fired easily If you still have your OM-1 see if burst shooting works there

I agree with Caolla - ease of use and less fiddling around is The Way. Your photo galleries are wonderful!

Aloha and welcome @Titanite !

This point is for me the key point. Only 1 adjustment --> less pictures to delete... etc etc... and a lot of more time under water for other subject or for the composition of the picture. I can't compare with other strobes...my first was the inon s2000 small but not powerfull. I had the retra Pro X and now the Pro Max II. The new one are better I'm still shooting some picture in Philippines... first impression "No regret" having invest again in Retra strobe. Honnestly I didn't shoot in full power.. but I like to have some reserve power ... just in case. But for the moment no need and with the particle in the water there is just impossible. But in all case thanks @jjmochi for your feedback

I think there is still a fair weight advantage to a dome with the 16-25 lens. Some weights (kitchen scales): Nauticam 180 dome 1183g. N 140 dome 668g. N100-120 35 adap 313g. N100-120 25 adap 183g. N120 35 ext II 267g. I have tested the lens with both domes: 140 + 25 adap + 35 ext = 1118g. 180 + 35 adap + 35 ext = 1763g. Surprisingly, there is no discernible difference in central IQ between both domes, with f11 giving good sharpness into the corners (sharp across a 30mm circle, viewed at 100%).

Yeah, I too have had allen wrenches and a tiny 4 inch crescent wrench confiscated when leaving Roatan, even after flying into Roatan from the US with them in my carry on. Lately, I just try to remember to move them to my checked bag. I decided to go on the Cozumel trip, and we are flying direct from Charlotte into Cozumel, so perhaps there is hope. Thanks all.

f29 is a pretty small aperture which lets in precious little light (and must lead to considerable image softness too). And 1/200 shutter speed is quite fast. Could you not use, say, f11 and 1/60? I doubt though you’re ever going to be able to shoot 10 frames a second with any strobe.

Thanks Chris, as stated in first post: Nikon Z8 Nauticam housing with Nauticam LED Flashtrigger Retra Pro X with battery booster/supercharger I was attempting burst shooting the Z8 with 10 frames/second, Manual Strobe/no TTL. To be sure I tried the strobes with booster on lowest power, still only the first shot got light.

Thanks Tim. That`s what I expected as well. I am trying typical "Black Water" setttings with Manual Strobe 1/200, F29 and ISO 400 and would love to get 2-3 shots per burst..

Hi Titanite! A warm welcome to Waterpixels. Great to have you with us. We hope you really enjoy the forum. Best wishes

Hello! Ive been diving for a while but end up with long breaks between taking photos and need to brush up on my technique. Looking forward to learning and hopfully contributing to the community. Thx T

Next weekend I'm planning 3 dives to test a lot of new equipment before a trip to Similan islands where we go on a 10 days dive cruise, so I can deeply test these strobes, I'm pretty sure i will fall in love with them but I didn't expect that lack of accuracy in the number of shots remaining. If that was accurate I would know before enter the water that the battery wasn't charged. And about the batteries, well, when I bought the strobes I bought the batteries to the same seller, he offered me that SUPE batteries and as long as SUPE is also an underwater strobe manufacturer I thought they were the right ones. I soon will see its performance. and if it's not right I'll buy new ones

I didn't see it before, but these batteries have an integrated usb port C with an colored led light so I can charge them directly with my phone charger. I´ve bought a 4 usb port charger so I can charge all of them easily.

Need more details of what you are doing, what trigger, manual or TTL, are you using the booster, how many frames/sec you are trying etc?

I would have thought you’d get 2-3 shots - I usually do but have never really tried seriously long bursts - but of course depends on your camera settings: ISO, aperture, Manual/TTL etc. What are you trying to do?

This extension ring is Nauticam’s newest model with the locking mechanism on the outside for easier removal of the front port while still attached to the housing. Nauticam has recently introduced a new user installable Focus Knob (SKU: # na-22151) purposely designed to fit this extension. This extension ring has only been used once as a demo so it comes in basically new condition with no cosmetic wear. Functions completely as intended. Includes rear cap and spare O-ring. Selling price ($550.00 USD) which covers shipping in the USA. Buyers outside the of the US will need to cover postage cost.

It only started happening in very cold water. In one week I went from shooting in 46F water (7.7C) to 38F (3.3C) water and that's where I noticed the big difference. I have 4 Canon batteries (not knock offs) that I rotate through and they all started dropping out after 600-700 shots in the colder water. Can't say I blame the batteries, a chemsitry that works in very cold temps is probably very different than hot environments. A new battery would almost certainly have more capacity although my batteries are only a year old and have been cycled ~40 times each so some wear but not that beat up. Typically once I'm in the water I'm in for 4-6 hours which means the camera gets cold and stays cold and I often the reason I get out is I have to change a battery which happens more in the colder water. I'm sure the battery self warms a little when it's being used but not nearly enough for the temperatures I'm seeing. Obviously anytime I have to open up my housing, especially in the middle of the woods in a drysuit only increases the risk that my housing might flood, which I would like to minimize :)

I have switched over to the Nikon Z8 and will be on another Black Water trip soon. In an ideal world I would want to have my Retra Pro X strobes burst-shoot a couple of images. But are they capable of it ? (I know they are not super at it due to the AA batteries) I have just tried it and only the first image gets light, even on the lowest power setting. Am I making some basic mistrake or is this just not possible with the Retra`s ? Specs: Nikon Z8 Nauticam housing with Nauticam LED Flashtrigger Retra Pro X with battery booster/supercharger

Having a look at Seacam’s new Optical Precision Port (OPP) at DEMA, the size and weight of the show’s sample model (built for Nikon’s F mount AF-S 16-35mm) overall is much lighter than Nauticam’s WACP and FCP ports. The flat front on its own has a similar weight range as one of Seacam’s macro ports. The extension port is made of Delrin which is lighter than aluminum. The internal optical that screws in the filter thread (72mm, 77mm & 82mm will be the three primary thread sizes available) of your wide-angle prime or wide-angle zoom in the 16-35mm range weighs about the same as a Nuaticam SMC super macro lens. The extension ring for the front port will be provided in different lengths based on the wide-angle lens you are using with the OPP’s internal correction lens. For example, if your wide-angle happens to be something like Sony’s E-mount FE 16-25mm f/2.8 G Lens or FE PZ 16-35mm f/4 G Lens, the OPP’s overall assembled weight and size will be less than that of a 180mm to 230mm domeport with an extension.

@OlDirtyDiver Great stuff!