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HelpingfriendsemptytheirbankaccountsRUs.com I hope your buddy really enjoys it!

Hi @Muellema I've remember a post on Plongeur.com Croisière Socorro Pacific Fleet Solmar V - ARNAQUE - Un croisiériste à éviter à tout prix - Incidents et accidents - Plongeur.com - Le site de la plongée sous marine It's in french but is seems to be the same If you need contact with other from this trip... you can probably write a post. ( can also make it for you no problem, write me a MP )

Not sure it does not make a difference. As a comparison, my z24-50 with a wwl show slight vignette in corners shot dry @24. Nothing when under water. Now I don’t know much about the Canon set-up, but if the lens is 24-50 it should work similar.

The test image ist actually dry and without a water contact conversion optic. I did not shoot it. It's from a public review. These exist in various forms on the net. But I have my own RAW files shooting a white wall. This "dry" and dismal projection of lenses cannot be fixed by water or water contact optics, as far as my testing confirms. I assume it has very much to do with the last projection array of glas inside a dry lens. Water contact optics or domes working in front of the optical system cannot cancel these out. Can somebody else confirm that? It would make me feel more comfortable with my analysis and thoughts on this matter. Having said that, I think a very much workable way is to shoot these wide vignetters at a focal length that is bearable. With my RF 24-105 STM for example the whole thing is very usable @ 28mm onwards. But as the 24-105 STM has a much larger front glas element and extends during zooming it is a more suitable candidate for dome ports and my Ivanoff style underwater correction port.

UPDATE: Thanks to fellow member @RickMo , my buddy has settled on a previously enjoyed E-M1ii in a Nauticam housing. He is super excited to begin his journey of spending all his disposable income, and then some, in this underwater addiction. 😁 Thank you to all for the fantastic comments and suggestions! The global users on their forum are such an incredible wealth of knowledge and experience. And a huge thank you to our wonderful mods such as @Chris Ross and @Davide DB for their first-hand knowledge in the m4/3 world! Happy New Year and much diving in 2026!!

The z24-50 combined with the wwl-1C on a Nikon mirrorless FF (think they call them 1B and 1C now, for 28 and 24 mm lenses respectively) works very well and delivers very sharp and contrasty images that are much better than I have seen previously with any other rectilinear zooms in (huge) domes. Just asking, the ”test image”, how did you shoot it? Looks like dry, no?

Our very own @DreiFish took the efforts to compare and test this in a formidable thread that deserves to be pinned:

Hi all, this is not a UW photo issue but I just want to inform the community as many of us want to dive and take pics at Socorro. I do not know if all of you have knowledge about the situation. Solmar V Liveaboard takes bookings and the do not go out. They cancel there trips shortly before departure and do not refund customers. They did it in the past and still do it. I was personal involved in October with cancellation less than 24 hours before departure. See kink on Scubaboard wih reports of victims. Br Markus https://scubaboard.com/community/threads/solmar-v-socorro-problem.664728/

I just got a shipping notice today for my Atom.

Thanks all for the input. In the end decided on a pair of the atom flash. Looking forward to learning strobes in the new year.

The MFO-1 provides only mild magnification on my 60mm, and has mild improvement in other parameters. So, most of the time, I would shoot with it on. If I want more magnification, I would switch it for my true close-up lens. And, occasionally, I could just have both on the bayonet adapters. I'm pretty sure the effect on balance won't be much different than a double flip holder.

Ok, but are you sure you want to use a wetdiopter permanently? This means you forfeit the possibility of using the macro lens without a wetdiopter. I personally wouldn't want to do without it.

Bump. Price reduced to $200.

I could see how that would be undesirable. With the double bayonet holder I plan to use now, except for the brief moments when I am actually exchanging lenses, there will always be one attached to the macro lens and one on the holder. It should not affect the balance at all.

The opposite is true for me: If I would attach and remove the heavy close-up lenses, my system would change the balance every time.

Photos of the Marelux MX-A1II housing with the new 112 macro port for the Sony 100 macro. First image with the port and no extensions. With the 1.4X teleconverter the 15mm extension is just a mm or two short, second photo is with the 1.4X tele and 20mm extension and the third is with the 2X tele converter using a 30mm extension. Ports with extensions have the Marelux MV +10 C/U lens in place. The C/U lens does not seem to slow the AF but I need in water tests to evaluate.

I use an Oly EM 5-III for many years now and are quite happy with it. In the years followed all the OMD updates of the camera but never saw a serious uw-advantage to upgrade to one of them, except perhaps for the built in ND filters. The EM 5-III is technically almost the same as the EM 1 II. I bought mine because it was smaller than the EM II, but the battery capacity is rather limiting. The OMD-5 III uses the same battery, prehapps battery managment is improved. I also would opt for an used EM 1 II , preferably in a Nauticam housing. For wide angle I use a WWL with a 14-42. After bad experiences with a broken pancake 14-42 lens (2x) I changed to a Pan kit lens once tested by M. Francese to work better with the WWL (Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-42mm / F3.5-5.6 II ASPH MEGA O.I.S). For Nauticam I had to change from port 29 to 35.. No idea if your buddy can use that option on a Marelux housing. The Oly 60mm is a fantastic macro lens, but I prefer the Pan 45mm for the wider angle and better ability in low viz.

Greetings! Might this be Francois, my blackwater compatriot from Villa Markisa last month?

Welcome!!

😁

Are you stilling looking to purchase it?

All of the lenses you listed in the original port are designed to be used at 28mm (130 AOV) and shot from behind a flat port will not work with your 24-50. The WWL-C (not WWL-1C) is designed to work with lenses that have 24mm at (130 FOV) behind a flat port. If you look at the lens on the Nauticam page you will see that it was primarily designed for sub-full frame cameras like compacts with 24mm zooms and M43 and APS-C it also works with full frame but as Chris suggested would have the lowest image quality v. WWL-1B, WACP-C and so on.

I have a M-configuration. With a big float arm on the camera side and a thin floating arm on the strobe+light side. I don't realy filming with the camera, BUT I start if there is something to film my Gopro placed on the top of my housing. The result is allways very stable OK the size of the gear help for the stabilisation But waht is important is that i'm happy with my setup... Other can be also happy with other solution... it's depend of the person, of what and how you film.

The battery contacts in the Maxi have multiple layers of anti corrosive coating with a silver coloured finish, designed specifically to protect the connection points. Historically we have not encountered issues with this coating unless there was water ingress or a short circuit caused by a damaged battery or incorrect battery orientation. Incorrect orientation is not possible in the Maxi battery compartment and the new li ion batteries typically include short circuit protection. If water enters the compartment the contacts can get damaged, although in all past cases users were able to clean them well enough for the strobe to power on and remain usable. Any replacements (if necessary) were carried out only after they had successfully completed their diving trip.

I have used a Sharpie pen, a fresh one, to just cover the writing. When the day comes that you want it gone, just use isopropyl on a cotton swab and keep gently dabbing and rubbing until the ink is removed. One lens that I have is UW dedicated. I carefully masked off everything except the beauty ring with all the nomenclature. I shot it lightly with Krylon Ultra-Flat paint, a couple of light coats.