Lewis88

The Zeiss 50mm lens is very usable on the newer A6xxx bodies. It's almost instant on my A6100. You also can adapt the Tokina 10-17mm fisheye APS-C lens, so you're not locked to a FF fisheye.

Divervision should hopefully be able to ship to you in France as well. They're a great vendor and I've used them multiple times. Regarding S&S reliability, I can only personally say I've had no issues over years with their strobes over multiple generations (YS-25, YS-110a, and YS-D3). My dad has also dove a pair of YS-D2j's for years without issues. But others will likely tell you they're nothing but problems. 🤷‍♂️

I shoot Sony APS-C. I upgraded from a Canon S95, and now I have an A6100 in a Nauticam A6400 housing. Compared to my dad's Olympus MFT Nauticam setup, it's a wash on weight and size. They're very similar once you add handles/trays/arms/etc. Full frame wasn't worth it for me, as the lenses are more expensive and heavier. I personally did not like the Salted Line housing at all. Some people love them, but for me it had Finicky camera placement, very floaty and bulky, control squeeze at depth, and just seemed extremely cheap and not trustworthy. Hence I went with Nauticam. For strobes, consider picking up some YS-D3's from divervision for $499 a piece.

I'm guessing using the YS-D2 setting on UW technics will work pretty well for the 110a's. But I noticed limitations with my 110a's when I stepped up to mirrorless from compact and really noticed the additional power from the D3's when I upgraded.

I shoot an A6100 in an Nauticam A6400 housing. The cameras are dimensionally identical. For WA I shoot the Tokina 10-17, with the Zen DP100 mini dome. For Macro, I shoot the Zeiss Touit 50mm macro with a +7 flip diopter. For Strobes, I started with Dual 110a's, and now have D3 Mk2's. I absolutely love the setup. It's small with the mini dome, and has zero focus issues with the Tokina lens. The Zeiss lens is very fast as well (as long as it's been software updated). Battery life can be touchy, but I added the Nauticam USB-c bulkhead, and have a USB-C to mini usb adapter cable, and charge between dives from a power bank.

At 42 seconds, one of the dolphins just grows longer and longer for no reason. But it's scary that it's so hard to tell except for little things here and there.

There was a video posted on reddit a few weeks ago, being shared all over on random subreddits, with dolphins and a whale that I'm convinced is AI. But it's really really good AI. Some small tells that just don't make sense. Underwater video my cousin took in Bora Bora. Cooler with sound! : r/BeAmazed

I think with the LSD, leaving it attached and in snoot setup makes sense because it's so large. For my Sea&Sea D3's, the snoot is lightweight plastic and easy to clip off to one of the arms.

I dumped these types of float arms once I had one separate underwater and almost lost a strobe. ULCS and Stix and never worry about it anymore.

I have the Sea&Sea D3 snoot which uses a prism to center the focus light beam. It works surprisingly well.

My MC-11 is for Canon lenses, because I'm using the canon mount version of the tokina 10-17. If yours is the sigma version, it will not work for the canon lenses. I just learned a hard lesson. The Sigma MC-11 comes in 2 Variants! SA or EF : r/SonyAlpha As far as Chris's comments, I've not noticed any issues with AF in video mode on my A6100.

I shoot the Tokina 10-17mm on my A6100 (in an A6400 housing), with a Sigma MC-11. I use the 19529 zoom gear, with the Port adapter 1. It looks like the port adapter 2 moved the lock assembly to 90 degrees offset from the knob, vs 180 degrees on my version 1. You can still get the version 1 at Backscatter, FYI. I am also using the Zen DP100 glass mini dome. I can confirm this setup works perfectly with the A6XXX series cameras, and gives incredible results. Please let me know what questions you have. Metabones and sigma are the same from a flange to flange distance (this is standardized to offset the DSLR lens the right distance from the mirrorless sensor).

Would you consider sharing your 3d printed dial STL files?

Could you use the N85-N120 adapter, and the Zen DP100 dome? So you can put the dome on after the lens gets put on from the front with the camera in the housing. That's what I shoot with my Tokina and I'm guessing my 50mm Zeiss touit would also fit. I should try that.

I got an air nozzle attachment for a low pressure inflator hose. It works great. Amazon.com : Scuba Choice Dive Air Nozzle & Tire Inflator – Dual-Purpose Low Pressure Hose Adapter for Regulators, Schrader Valve Tires, Inflatable Beds, Boats & Outdoor Equipment : Sports & Outdoors

I'm using this cable: Amazon.com: Poyiccot USB C to Micro USB Cable, 90 Degree Left Angle Micro USB Male to USB C Female Adapter Connector Cable Support Charge & Sync for Samsung and Micro USB Devices(Left Angle) : Cell Phones & Accessories I removed the bracket for the expansion battery, and then tuck this adapter down below the camera.

I added the usb-c bulkhead to my A6400 Housing setup. Works great. I charge from a battery bank between dives, and I don't need to break the vacuum to change a battery (or break down my kit if using my fisheye which is front mount). If I'm diving the same lens the next day, I'll leave the housing sealed overnight and charge from the wall.

Correct. I am using a Sigma MC11 adapter for sony to canon lenses.

I do believe a fisheye can handle most everything other than macro. CFWA and WA can be handled with the lens. With a teleconverter and a port extension, you get a narrow view to rival normal kit lenses. I shoot a Tokina 10-17 on my sony system, and will be adding a TC and 20mm port extension to make it a more "normal" lens for night dives and such when I don't want macro. I don't even travel with my kit lens anymore.

After having a no name float arm come apart underwater, I also moved to stix. I have a combo of jumbo and regular and they work great and I don't need to worry about them coming apart.

Misool's been on my list for a while. Need to put a deposit down one of these days for a couple years out.

At least on my A6100, if you turn on silent shooting, it will disable the built in flash. Not sure if that works with triggers as well.

I likely would have gone battery pack as well, but alas, they were discontinued by the time I bought my system.

I agree, this should work with the A6700 housings. On the pre 6600 housings, the vacuum LED was so close to the hotshoe, even the trt unit wouldn't fit.

I also use this bulkhead with my A6400 housing. Have an adapter cable tucked in where the battery pack normally goes to get the micro USB connection. I only use mine for charging in between dives, but it works great and means I don't need to break the vacuum all day, or even at night if I'm shooting the same lens the next day.