Lewis88

I'm using this cable: Amazon.com: Poyiccot USB C to Micro USB Cable, 90 Degree Left Angle Micro USB Male to USB C Female Adapter Connector Cable Support Charge & Sync for Samsung and Micro USB Devices(Left Angle) : Cell Phones & Accessories I removed the bracket for the expansion battery, and then tuck this adapter down below the camera.

I added the usb-c bulkhead to my A6400 Housing setup. Works great. I charge from a battery bank between dives, and I don't need to break the vacuum to change a battery (or break down my kit if using my fisheye which is front mount). If I'm diving the same lens the next day, I'll leave the housing sealed overnight and charge from the wall.

Correct. I am using a Sigma MC11 adapter for sony to canon lenses.

I do believe a fisheye can handle most everything other than macro. CFWA and WA can be handled with the lens. With a teleconverter and a port extension, you get a narrow view to rival normal kit lenses. I shoot a Tokina 10-17 on my sony system, and will be adding a TC and 20mm port extension to make it a more "normal" lens for night dives and such when I don't want macro. I don't even travel with my kit lens anymore.

After having a no name float arm come apart underwater, I also moved to stix. I have a combo of jumbo and regular and they work great and I don't need to worry about them coming apart.

Misool's been on my list for a while. Need to put a deposit down one of these days for a couple years out.

At least on my A6100, if you turn on silent shooting, it will disable the built in flash. Not sure if that works with triggers as well.

I likely would have gone battery pack as well, but alas, they were discontinued by the time I bought my system.

I agree, this should work with the A6700 housings. On the pre 6600 housings, the vacuum LED was so close to the hotshoe, even the trt unit wouldn't fit.

I also use this bulkhead with my A6400 housing. Have an adapter cable tucked in where the battery pack normally goes to get the micro USB connection. I only use mine for charging in between dives, but it works great and means I don't need to break the vacuum all day, or even at night if I'm shooting the same lens the next day.

Is there a projected target price for these? Bundle pricing for 2x strobes and a trigger?

Are these new triggers firmware updatable without sending it back?

When I tried a s-turtle in my A6400 housing, the vacuum LED was in the way. With the deeper a6700 and the LED being on the back of the housing, I'm surprised it won't fit.

OP, looks like you're shooting APS-C, when the FE50mm 2.8 is a FF lens. For APS-C, The Zeiss Touit 50mm is IMO the best choice of macro lens in the 50mm focal length.

I'm stuck with the fw50 batteries, but charging between dives via a powerbank has made it not an issue anymore. I don't believe any of the other a6xxx series will fit in your 6000 housing. From my research, the 6100/6400 were closest externally. I didn't look much at the 6300/6500, but they're all quite different than the 6000.

I am also a Sony/Nauticam N85 shooter. I shoot an A6100 in an A6400 housing (the cameras are physically identical) My main lenses are: 1. Tokina 10-17 (via Sigma MC11 adapter, N85-N120 adapter, and Zen DP100 mini dome) 2. Zeiss Touit 50mm macro (using 2x 17mm extension rings, and the Macro Port 40 with knob that I can use with the 1650 if needed) 3. Kit 16-50 (rarely used) Per the older port charts, here is the port for the adapted Canon 60mm macro: Nauticam Macro Port and Focus Gear Set for Metabones Canon EF Lens to Sony NEX Smart Adapter II and Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro USM (backscatter.com) I'm not sure why this is no longer on the port charts, but the flange to housing distance hasn't changed in the newer cameras, so there is no reason it shouldn't work. I looked at going this route, but it's an expensive port and I was able to get my zeiss lens and extension rings for less than the port alone. As a note, due to the small port opening, many of the adapted lens require you to install the camera in the housing, install the lens from the front of the housing, and then the port over the lens. I have to do this for my tokina. I added Nauticam's M16 USB-C bulkhead, so I can charge my camera with everything assembled and vacuum pulled instead of disassembling to change batteries. Let me know what questions you might have.

If they allow a card charge, you could also have the charge reversed with your bank when you return to your home country. Shame this corruption is spreading though.

I got new strobes earlier this year (right before the HF1's launched). I eyed retras for a long time, but their ongoing cost increases diminished their value and my interest. Instead, I was able to get a pair of D3's from diver vision for $600 a piece, along with the dome diffusers and a snoot ($79 vs $370 for retras LSD). Had the HF1's launched, I might have considered them, but no slave TTL is a big issue for me, and they haven't finished their Sony ttl module yet. I shoot APS-C and tropical water, so my light needs aren't as taxing as some, but I have yet to need more light than the D3's provide. I just can't see the value Retra is providing for a significantly more expensive strobe, with a weird battery protuberance, without significantly better light quality.

To the top! Make me an offer.

I have the Nauticam 36206 (N85 to N120 50mm Port Adaptor with Zoom Control).

Thanks for the link to the Wolf method. That's a really nice setup strategy when snooting.

I shoot the Tokina 10-17 on my Nauticam A6400 setup. I use the Sigma MC-11 adapter, an N85-120 port adapter, and a zen 100mm glass dome. It's a very compact package that works great.

Couldn't agree with this more. It's a different thought process than even normal macro. IMO either handhold the snooted strobe, or lock the arm down completely. I've debated removing my second strobe and arm completely when snooting, or adding a second snoot to the other strobe. I use YS-D3's and their snoot has a prism designed to redirect the focus light to the center of the snoot beam. It works great.

I used to use a Surface Pro with the Surface Pen, and it was great, but the overall UX was not tailored well to not having a mouse. I constantly had to use my Arc mouse or the touchpad on the keyboard. Recently switched to a 10th gen iPad with the pencil and can't see myself going back to the surface. I do the majority of my editing on my iPad, and only do certain tasks on my desktop and 43" monitor setup.

I don't think I'm a noob, and even I thought they were the next generation of S2000 strobes.