Lewis88

I likely would have gone battery pack as well, but alas, they were discontinued by the time I bought my system.

I agree, this should work with the A6700 housings. On the pre 6600 housings, the vacuum LED was so close to the hotshoe, even the trt unit wouldn't fit.

I also use this bulkhead with my A6400 housing. Have an adapter cable tucked in where the battery pack normally goes to get the micro USB connection. I only use mine for charging in between dives, but it works great and means I don't need to break the vacuum all day, or even at night if I'm shooting the same lens the next day.

Is there a projected target price for these? Bundle pricing for 2x strobes and a trigger?

Are these new triggers firmware updatable without sending it back?

When I tried a s-turtle in my A6400 housing, the vacuum LED was in the way. With the deeper a6700 and the LED being on the back of the housing, I'm surprised it won't fit.

OP, looks like you're shooting APS-C, when the FE50mm 2.8 is a FF lens. For APS-C, The Zeiss Touit 50mm is IMO the best choice of macro lens in the 50mm focal length.

I'm stuck with the fw50 batteries, but charging between dives via a powerbank has made it not an issue anymore. I don't believe any of the other a6xxx series will fit in your 6000 housing. From my research, the 6100/6400 were closest externally. I didn't look much at the 6300/6500, but they're all quite different than the 6000.

I am also a Sony/Nauticam N85 shooter. I shoot an A6100 in an A6400 housing (the cameras are physically identical) My main lenses are: 1. Tokina 10-17 (via Sigma MC11 adapter, N85-N120 adapter, and Zen DP100 mini dome) 2. Zeiss Touit 50mm macro (using 2x 17mm extension rings, and the Macro Port 40 with knob that I can use with the 1650 if needed) 3. Kit 16-50 (rarely used) Per the older port charts, here is the port for the adapted Canon 60mm macro: Nauticam Macro Port and Focus Gear Set for Metabones Canon EF Lens to Sony NEX Smart Adapter II and Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro USM (backscatter.com) I'm not sure why this is no longer on the port charts, but the flange to housing distance hasn't changed in the newer cameras, so there is no reason it shouldn't work. I looked at going this route, but it's an expensive port and I was able to get my zeiss lens and extension rings for less than the port alone. As a note, due to the small port opening, many of the adapted lens require you to install the camera in the housing, install the lens from the front of the housing, and then the port over the lens. I have to do this for my tokina. I added Nauticam's M16 USB-C bulkhead, so I can charge my camera with everything assembled and vacuum pulled instead of disassembling to change batteries. Let me know what questions you might have.

If they allow a card charge, you could also have the charge reversed with your bank when you return to your home country. Shame this corruption is spreading though.

I got new strobes earlier this year (right before the HF1's launched). I eyed retras for a long time, but their ongoing cost increases diminished their value and my interest. Instead, I was able to get a pair of D3's from diver vision for $600 a piece, along with the dome diffusers and a snoot ($79 vs $370 for retras LSD). Had the HF1's launched, I might have considered them, but no slave TTL is a big issue for me, and they haven't finished their Sony ttl module yet. I shoot APS-C and tropical water, so my light needs aren't as taxing as some, but I have yet to need more light than the D3's provide. I just can't see the value Retra is providing for a significantly more expensive strobe, with a weird battery protuberance, without significantly better light quality.

To the top! Make me an offer.

I have the Nauticam 36206 (N85 to N120 50mm Port Adaptor with Zoom Control).

Thanks for the link to the Wolf method. That's a really nice setup strategy when snooting.

I shoot the Tokina 10-17 on my Nauticam A6400 setup. I use the Sigma MC-11 adapter, an N85-120 port adapter, and a zen 100mm glass dome. It's a very compact package that works great.

Couldn't agree with this more. It's a different thought process than even normal macro. IMO either handhold the snooted strobe, or lock the arm down completely. I've debated removing my second strobe and arm completely when snooting, or adding a second snoot to the other strobe. I use YS-D3's and their snoot has a prism designed to redirect the focus light to the center of the snoot beam. It works great.

I used to use a Surface Pro with the Surface Pen, and it was great, but the overall UX was not tailored well to not having a mouse. I constantly had to use my Arc mouse or the touchpad on the keyboard. Recently switched to a 10th gen iPad with the pencil and can't see myself going back to the surface. I do the majority of my editing on my iPad, and only do certain tasks on my desktop and 43" monitor setup.

I don't think I'm a noob, and even I thought they were the next generation of S2000 strobes.

Nauticam is the same. Very sensitive. I had my leak detector go off on a dive (hair on the o-ring broke the vacuum). Caught it early where it was a teaspoon or less water in the housing. Was able to dry it out, clean with some alcohol, and go on with my trip.

I'm debating if it can become my night dive lens. Seems like a great option for various night subjects if I don't want to go macro.

I recently got this XTar charger, mostly because it's USB C so I can charge my camera batteries, strobe batteries, light batteries, etc. all via one big usb power adapter. Amazon.com: 18650 Battery Charger XTAR VC4H 4bays 21700 Battery Charger USB C Charger AA AAA Battery Charger (VC4H+QC3.0 Adapter) : Electronics It works great, but is definitely slower than my 8 port AA only maha charger when charging the strobe AA's.

Excellent picture! Which TC are you using? Can I get away with the base kenko teleplus hd dgx? I'm assuming I'd put the TC between my Sigma MC-11 adapter and my Tokina, and then use an N85 extension to push the whole N120 section of the setup further out to preserve my zoom gear functionality.

Mostly just trying to visualize when I would use this vs just the native setup without the TC. Vacation diver, so I don't get to spend as much time shooting as I wish I could.

Interesting. I don't even carry my kit 16-50 lens anymore for that mid-range FOV, and I either shoot my Tokina or Zeiss Touit macro. I can already do CFWA with the stock tokina since it will focus on the dome. Sounds like this tightens up the field of view. Still might be worth pricing out an N85 20mm extension and a TC.

What do you gain from the TC on the Tokina? It's my go to lens on my a6100 Nauticam setup, but wondering if I should consider adding a TC and another port extension?