Lewis88

Where did you get this information? I believe you just need to contact Miso directly at leak sentinel.

Just so we can learn, what mistake did you make? Was your vacuum system activated, showing green, etc?

My biggest pet peeve is gate agents forcing me to remove the battery bank from its slot under the handle on my away carry on when boarding. They tell me it can't be in that slot, but can be inside the bag, in my backpack, etc? How is it any different in that slot? It doesn't make any sense. I usually take it out, then put it back in there on the jet bridge.

Looks like an iDAS branded arm.

But they're fancy blue o-rings!

Just 1 more thing to manage charging, turning on, cramming into an already packed housing, etc. Being a vacation diver, I decided the additional complication isn't worth it for me.

Installed in the housing for a few minutes, but decided to continue using the built in flash instead. Brand new. comes with everything. These retail for $375 plus tax and shipping. Get it for $300 shipped in the US.

After years of heavy backpacks, I switched to a pelican style case. Wheeled and fits in all international carry on limits (except weight). in it goes: - housing with camera and fisheye lens and port installed - macro and standard zoom port (same port with extension rings) - macro lens - standard lens - diopter - 2x strobes with dome diffusers and snoot - focus light - shearwater wrist unit - vacuum pump - all camera batteries, dive light battery, and 16x AA batteries in my checked bag goes all my wife and I’s other gear: 2x sets of fins, 2 wetsuits, 2 bcd’s, 4 masks, chargers, camera arms and clamps. regs go in our backpacks, and we use one checked and one carry on suitcase for all our clothes.

I shoot Sony APS-C, so I'm locked at 1/160 sync speed. I don't really find it limiting. I mostly shoot with it locked there, and just adjust aperature or iso to dial in my exposure. Strobes are in TTL.

I have a Sola 500 photo, and 1200 photo. Both have been flawless for the years I've owned, them. I use them mostly as focus lights (the red light is great), but also as primary night dive lights, as well as lighting during some macro use. The sealed construction really makes them easy to deal with.

Another Chicago based diver checking in! Although I don't do much diving IN Chicagoland. The lake is too cold 🥶

Yup I use this dome and the adapter as well. Works great for my Tokina on my A6100 setup. I also use the MC-11 instead of the metabones.

Yup, I see what he meant now. oops.

After years of running bootleg Photoshop, I also finally caved to lightroom subscription. Got tired of carrying my heavy and storage limited surface pro (128gb model). Not to mention editing on it with the pen was always a bit frustrating due to unoptimized touch interface. Picked up a new 10th generation ipad, and I have a lightweight, connected editing machine, as well as a great big screen for my drone. Easier to edit with multi touch and apple pencil. $10 a month with 1tb of cloud storage can't be beat. Just working on uploading a lot of my trips from the last few years to get some editing and sharing on social done.

I couldn't agree more with Chris regarding not going to FF. I shoot APS-C, with a Tokina 10-17 in a Zen 100mm mini dome. It's a very small package to travel with (albeit heavy), and I don't need to worry about traveling with a big dome. This combined with a 50mm macro lens and port all fits in a small carry on pelican, with strobes, lights, computer, batteries, etc. Only thing in my checked bag is the arms and clamps.

I added this bulkhead to my A6400 Nauticam housing, combined with this adapter to get to micro USB. It works fantastic. Amazon.com: Poyiccot USB C to Micro USB Cable, 90 Degree Left Angle Micro USB Male to USB C Female Adapter Connector Cable Support Charge & Sync for Samsung and Micro USB Devices(Left Angle) : Cell Phones & Accessories I removed the external battery holder from the bottom of my housing under the camera tray (3 allen screws), and the adapter connection sits in there. Allows me to charge between dives without breaking the vacuum, especially since removing my Tokina is from the front, so requires lots of disassembly.

This looks like a really really nice strobe setup. If I hadn't just picked up some D3's, I might have waited for these. Very interested to see some independent reviews, and what the Sony trigger looks like.

I'd just remove the tripod foot on the metabones adapter before I start filing down anything in my housing. Loosen the two bolts and it pops right off. Depending on if you got a full box used version, it should come with the allen wrench and some little plugs for the open holes.

I stopped mounting my gopro to the top of my housing. I realized I was recording so much footage I never touched and it was just taking up storage space. Now I just hit the video button on my housing to quickly grab video from the main camera.

Thanks Gudge! Unfortunately, the pre 6600 housings are a lot smaller and the Vacuum system LED protrudes right over the hotshoe, so I'd need to get the mobie. Just trying to figure out how it all fits in there. I already have the USB-C bulkhead cable routing down to charge the camera, so it's a lot to wedge in the housing.

In my quest for battery life and shooting speed, I'm debating adding a TTL trigger to my system to trigger my D3 mark II's. I'm not interested in the UW Technics trigger, as multiple divers have expressed having repeated issues with it. I'm looking at the S-turtle Mobie, but I'd like to see how others have it mounted in their Nauticam housings. There's not a ton of extra room in there, so any pics would be helpful.

I've got a spare N85 port rear cap from some extension rings. PM me and let's work something out.

Do you ONLY shoot CFWA on a dive? What if there's something a little further away you want to shoot and need to throw the strobes out a bit? I also like having the arms when shooting macro so I can get the strobes into different lighting positions.

My housing, camera, and other gear is packed in a pelican style carry on case, and only handled by me. Yes the back o-ring is in a captured grove, but on clamshell housings, the back of the housing slides over the captured o-ring as it's seated by the housing close mechanism.

This seems like a stretch to say it's a bad idea. If you have a vacuum system, it's easy to release. Not to mention I prefer to maximize my packing by using the empty space inside my housing and dome port by filling it with my camera and fisheye lens. My Nauticam housing slides over the main o-ring when closing. It's not a straight static seal like ikelite is.