Lewis88

After years of running bootleg Photoshop, I also finally caved to lightroom subscription. Got tired of carrying my heavy and storage limited surface pro (128gb model). Not to mention editing on it with the pen was always a bit frustrating due to unoptimized touch interface. Picked up a new 10th generation ipad, and I have a lightweight, connected editing machine, as well as a great big screen for my drone. Easier to edit with multi touch and apple pencil. $10 a month with 1tb of cloud storage can't be beat. Just working on uploading a lot of my trips from the last few years to get some editing and sharing on social done.

I couldn't agree more with Chris regarding not going to FF. I shoot APS-C, with a Tokina 10-17 in a Zen 100mm mini dome. It's a very small package to travel with (albeit heavy), and I don't need to worry about traveling with a big dome. This combined with a 50mm macro lens and port all fits in a small carry on pelican, with strobes, lights, computer, batteries, etc. Only thing in my checked bag is the arms and clamps.

I added this bulkhead to my A6400 Nauticam housing, combined with this adapter to get to micro USB. It works fantastic. Amazon.com: Poyiccot USB C to Micro USB Cable, 90 Degree Left Angle Micro USB Male to USB C Female Adapter Connector Cable Support Charge & Sync for Samsung and Micro USB Devices(Left Angle) : Cell Phones & Accessories I removed the external battery holder from the bottom of my housing under the camera tray (3 allen screws), and the adapter connection sits in there. Allows me to charge between dives without breaking the vacuum, especially since removing my Tokina is from the front, so requires lots of disassembly.

This looks like a really really nice strobe setup. If I hadn't just picked up some D3's, I might have waited for these. Very interested to see some independent reviews, and what the Sony trigger looks like.

I'd just remove the tripod foot on the metabones adapter before I start filing down anything in my housing. Loosen the two bolts and it pops right off. Depending on if you got a full box used version, it should come with the allen wrench and some little plugs for the open holes.

I stopped mounting my gopro to the top of my housing. I realized I was recording so much footage I never touched and it was just taking up storage space. Now I just hit the video button on my housing to quickly grab video from the main camera.

Thanks Gudge! Unfortunately, the pre 6600 housings are a lot smaller and the Vacuum system LED protrudes right over the hotshoe, so I'd need to get the mobie. Just trying to figure out how it all fits in there. I already have the USB-C bulkhead cable routing down to charge the camera, so it's a lot to wedge in the housing.

In my quest for battery life and shooting speed, I'm debating adding a TTL trigger to my system to trigger my D3 mark II's. I'm not interested in the UW Technics trigger, as multiple divers have expressed having repeated issues with it. I'm looking at the S-turtle Mobie, but I'd like to see how others have it mounted in their Nauticam housings. There's not a ton of extra room in there, so any pics would be helpful.

I've got a spare N85 port rear cap from some extension rings. PM me and let's work something out.

Do you ONLY shoot CFWA on a dive? What if there's something a little further away you want to shoot and need to throw the strobes out a bit? I also like having the arms when shooting macro so I can get the strobes into different lighting positions.

My housing, camera, and other gear is packed in a pelican style carry on case, and only handled by me. Yes the back o-ring is in a captured grove, but on clamshell housings, the back of the housing slides over the captured o-ring as it's seated by the housing close mechanism.

This seems like a stretch to say it's a bad idea. If you have a vacuum system, it's easy to release. Not to mention I prefer to maximize my packing by using the empty space inside my housing and dome port by filling it with my camera and fisheye lens. My Nauticam housing slides over the main o-ring when closing. It's not a straight static seal like ikelite is.

I use a Sola 1200 with red light, and it's worked great for me. I noticed as well that critters are less skittish, and my a6100 locks on focus quickly.

This is good to hear! I have a +7 diopter on a flip already, and since I'm using the same port, I plan on bringing it and seeing how it does with the zeiss.

2x 17mm extension rings arrived today, and everything fits with 1mm or 2mm to spare between the lens and port glass. So I'm macro ready! Just need the new strobes to arrive so I can get everything tested and packed. Not doing any blackwater in Philippines in May, but maybe on the Belize liveaboard in June.

SOLD

This is all interesting, and seemingly something I had never considered before. It sounds like the biggest risk is salt water drying on the lens via the soaked cover, which shouldn't happen if you rinse gear properly. I typically leave the wet cover on the lens between dives on 2 tanks trips, and then rinse my lens and neoprene cover in the rinse tanks. I leave the cover on overnight and it's still damp the next morning. When doing my final soak and dry after my trip is over, I let them dry independently.

Just one less thing to worry about before our next trip. And I can get all my gear sorted without having a lens out for service. Extension rings arrive tomorrow so we will see. If not I will return one of the 17's for a 20mm. Correct, The N85 to N120 is already a 50mm extension, so I likely won't need more. I'll probably wait to experiment with that in a pool this summer. Not wasting precious tropical dive time. Not sure how much I'll dive macro behind a dome anyways, since the goal for me is maximum magnification when macro.

Reading through the recent UW Photo Guide article "How to Set Up and Maintain Your Underwater Camera" and this excerpt caught my eye. "However, if you have a glass port, make sure that you never attach a neoprene cover while the glass is wet with salt water. This can damage the port and create permanent burns on the glass. Make sure the dome is rinsed with fresh water and dried thoroughly before applying a port cover." I've never heard this. Is this true? I bring my neoprene cover for my Zen DP100 on the dive with me, getting in and out of the water with it installed. Am I doing damage to my port?

Lens arrived today, and was already firmware updated! Also based on some crude measurements and holding the inside port glass of my 40mm port to the lens front, I need 31+ mm of extension. So looks like the 2x 17mm rings will work just fine. They arrive later this week. Also threw the dome on without any extensions and it fits and would focus in air. Not sure how much being off the optical center is affecting it though.

I mistyped, I actually have the 40mm port for the 1650, So I will use that with 2 17mm extension rings to get me 74mm compared to the 75mm on the port chart. If that doesn't fit, I'll go to a 20mm and 17mm extension, giving me 77mm. One of these should work. First thing I'll do today when it arrives is check the firmware in case I need to send it off before we head to The Philippines in May. The zen DP100 uses the 50mm N85 to N120 adapter. I likely will never choose to use the dome if I have the right port/extensions.

I've never personally done this, although it supposedly works. I'm not sure how this works when doing CFWA though. Nauticam is one of, if not, the most expensive housing companies, so most users are going to spring the extra money to use an AF lens setup.

Selling a pair of ys-110a strobes. Both never flooded, and despite having a few scratches and dings, are in overall excellent shape. These have worked great on multiple cameras, with excellent light performance and TTL has been nothing but reliable for me. $175 each/$300 for both shipped in the ConUSA (located in Chicago). Includes: 2x Ys-110a strobes 2x locking bolt 2x diffusers 2x strobe ball adapters

I got the Sigma MC-11 instead of a metabones. Found mine used for a decent discount.

Any of the ultra-wide rectilinear APS-C primes are going to require a MUCH bigger dome than the fisheye options.