Lewis88

This is all interesting, and seemingly something I had never considered before. It sounds like the biggest risk is salt water drying on the lens via the soaked cover, which shouldn't happen if you rinse gear properly. I typically leave the wet cover on the lens between dives on 2 tanks trips, and then rinse my lens and neoprene cover in the rinse tanks. I leave the cover on overnight and it's still damp the next morning. When doing my final soak and dry after my trip is over, I let them dry independently.

Just one less thing to worry about before our next trip. And I can get all my gear sorted without having a lens out for service. Extension rings arrive tomorrow so we will see. If not I will return one of the 17's for a 20mm. Correct, The N85 to N120 is already a 50mm extension, so I likely won't need more. I'll probably wait to experiment with that in a pool this summer. Not wasting precious tropical dive time. Not sure how much I'll dive macro behind a dome anyways, since the goal for me is maximum magnification when macro.

Reading through the recent UW Photo Guide article "How to Set Up and Maintain Your Underwater Camera" and this excerpt caught my eye. "However, if you have a glass port, make sure that you never attach a neoprene cover while the glass is wet with salt water. This can damage the port and create permanent burns on the glass. Make sure the dome is rinsed with fresh water and dried thoroughly before applying a port cover." I've never heard this. Is this true? I bring my neoprene cover for my Zen DP100 on the dive with me, getting in and out of the water with it installed. Am I doing damage to my port?

Lens arrived today, and was already firmware updated! Also based on some crude measurements and holding the inside port glass of my 40mm port to the lens front, I need 31+ mm of extension. So looks like the 2x 17mm rings will work just fine. They arrive later this week. Also threw the dome on without any extensions and it fits and would focus in air. Not sure how much being off the optical center is affecting it though.

I mistyped, I actually have the 40mm port for the 1650, So I will use that with 2 17mm extension rings to get me 74mm compared to the 75mm on the port chart. If that doesn't fit, I'll go to a 20mm and 17mm extension, giving me 77mm. One of these should work. First thing I'll do today when it arrives is check the firmware in case I need to send it off before we head to The Philippines in May. The zen DP100 uses the 50mm N85 to N120 adapter. I likely will never choose to use the dome if I have the right port/extensions.

I've never personally done this, although it supposedly works. I'm not sure how this works when doing CFWA though. Nauticam is one of, if not, the most expensive housing companies, so most users are going to spring the extra money to use an AF lens setup.

Selling a pair of ys-110a strobes. Both never flooded, and despite having a few scratches and dings, are in overall excellent shape. These have worked great on multiple cameras, with excellent light performance and TTL has been nothing but reliable for me. $175 each/$300 for both shipped in the ConUSA (located in Chicago). Includes: 2x Ys-110a strobes 2x locking bolt 2x diffusers 2x strobe ball adapters

I got the Sigma MC-11 instead of a metabones. Found mine used for a decent discount.

Any of the ultra-wide rectilinear APS-C primes are going to require a MUCH bigger dome than the fisheye options.

To which APS-C fisheye lenses are you referring? If you mean 7artisens and other MF lenses, it's because they're MF. MF is complicated and finicky underwater, especially in less than perfectly calm water. Sigma makes a canon mount 10mm APS-C lens which you can adapt, but it's more expensive than a tokina.

FWIW, one of topics linked was my own topic on wet pixels. I just pulled the trigger on a used 50mm zeiss touit lens per @dentrock's recommendation. Spent hours researching the 50 vs the 90 vs the canon. The 90 is just too tight for me, and the price of the Nauticam port for the canon is really what threw me off, as well as having to carry another port all together. The 50mm lets me use my kit lens 45mm port with a few extensions. Once the lens gets here, I will order a pair of n85 17mm extension rings and see if 1mm less port will still fit the lens (compared to the port charts). Else I will switch for a 17mm and 20mm extension ring combo, leaving me with 2mm more than the port chart. I will likely even try the lens in my zen dp100 dome I use for my tokina, just to see how it does. Debating if I should even keep my 16-50 kit lens and diopter, or just switch fully to either macro or fisheye (tokina). Not sure how much use it'll get anymore.

Yes. Using this one: Nauticam N85 to N120 50mm Port Adaptor II (backscatter.com)

I also shoot the Tokina 10-17(via Sigma MC-11) on my A6100 in a Nauticam A6400 housing. Using the Zen DP100. It's on my camera probably 75% of the time. Absolutely fantastic and tiny setup.

I personally would not trust any FDM part underwater. I would only be trusting an SLA part, which once you get your part designed, you should be able to get printed at most any print house. Fusion 360 is probably the simplest free modeling tool, and with youtube and some calipers, you might be able to model both connections.

Great post, and it's exactly why I love my Tokina 10-17 on my Sony APS-C setup. It's on my camera probably 85% of the time.

I'd go back button focus with focus peeking, and rock the camera back and forth to get the DOF where you want it. UW MF for super marcro sounds overly complicated.

Waiting on some real world tests of the Marelux Apollo 33's.

Good to be here, and hope we see this community thrive without the previous site's drama.