eocean-eu

In the past, I had some good result with a water burnt diopter using California Gold water spot remover. That product is no longer manufactured but maybe any car water spot remover could possibly do the trick. I haven't tried other products.

Bigger housings are not buoyant as well therefore in the end, you also end up adding more floats to them than what you add on a smaller camera.

But in any cases, it does not really explain why a Nauticam glass dome would more resistant to water burn than a Nauticam wet angle lens. Something is not right here or port and wetlens have different type of glasses. At the end of the day, I wouldn't buy any second hand "burnt' WWL without seeing that it has no impact on image quality underwater.

Lens coating can be used to prevent various things. If there is no problem with your other dome glass, then coatings are probably different between dome and WWL There is also a big difference between a port and a wet lens. For the port, you only have one layer of glass before your camera lens. For the WWL, there are several layers of optical elements. I suspect (it has to be confirmed) that the coating on the WWL has optical reason like reducing glares, internal reflection or other things that might affect optical quality.

Most dome ports are made of plastic . They don't have the coatings dome glasses have. The water burn (it's called like that) also depends a lot of where you are diving. Some freshwater attacks harder than other including anodization on aluminum housings. The real limiting thing is to wash in freshwater and blow immediately some dry air to remove any moisture from the glass.

Thanks. I certainly should revisit that topic I had read a long time ago before getting more into blackwater but I won't derail the L10 thread here with the frustrating and exciting world of blackwater which adds another load of problems when shooting fast moving macro subjects :)

Thank you :) !

This is what I got years ago with the LX100 (mark I) and CMC-1 I think on video. It's 4K that I cropped to Full HD and then stabilized.

If you want to measure what you really need in terms of powerbank, I would buy one of those USB-C charge monitor that inserts between power source and equipment. check the values on the screen of V, Amps, Watt when the camera is on and running. This will tell you the PD mode in place and amounts of watts needed. consider a powerbank that is able to deliver the same amount of watts (W) to its pins. Warning: between modes and phases (camera turning on, record starting), that can change. then consider the capacity of the powerbank (Wh) of the battery you need by deriving the number of mAh needed to cope with the PD mode which will set Amps and Volts to deliver the needed watts. You can also do something else: Consider the power the internal battery deliver : P = Vout x mAh = Wh Add a multiplier factor of P to the capacity (and time) you want to add up in extra to the battery Look for a powerbank of that capacity. The first method is probably more precise. The tricky thing is to think in terms of capacity (Wh) rather than fiddling with V and I as this is the principle of PD. The powerbank is doing the work to output power properly.

I remember on the LX100 I, I used to switch battery on every dive for video but more to make sure I don't run out of battery while diving.

You should have a look in the manual for the amount of power required for the USB-PD input of the camera. Most of the time, the manual will tell that the camera usb-c power input is compatible with any PD adaptor of at least xxx Watts. Then the powerbank or whatever USB-PD circuit designed to power the camera should be of that power. It's worth having a look at that wikipedia page https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_hardware#USB_Power_Delivery and that one to understand how USB-C pins are used https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C#USB%E2%80%91C_receptacle_pin_usage_in_different_modes and one of the module I was mentioning to connect a li-po drone battery (some are much smaller as this one is 100W) https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005008518344389.html?dp=CjwKCAjw5s_QBhAdEiwADD_gBl6Sf4CpfA7MDLyOTQeTNwrb3FBRLP2ptaQk2ObaTm2RnVpEbncBzBoCf6EQAvD_BwE%40251641

This housing is very NA-LX100 looking (and there is an error during the product photoshoot with a Canon lens showing up along with some accessories).

USB-C PD is some sort of a IC-controlled way to power a device as there are a few handshakes between power source and IC inside the camera to ajust volt and currents. It's super risky to assume you can power a USB-C port without following that protocol. There are circuits that connects on li-ion or li-po batteries or whatever types of power source into USB-C PD compatible outputs. They won't fry the camera and batteries won't burn and they are just a few dollars/euros.

I don't think it's a very relevant comparison to compare the L10 with the Gopro ILS because those are two vastly different products for different use and customers. You can compare it to a RX100 or any compact camera but action cam are not comparable to compact expert cameras. Action cam by default are not photo dedicated and have been since a long time consistently bad at replacing compact and smartphones for photos. And for video there are things that you easily do with an action cam that cannot be easily done with a compact and the opposite is also very true. Different tools for different jobs. That being said, the LX100 mark I was called a baby GH4 at the time because of its good video performance. The L10 might be a baby GH7. I enjoyed a lot my time with the LX100 for several years of video before moving to the GH5s.

It is very similar to the LX100/LX100II. I had 10 yrs ago the LX100 and it was a very good compact camera for underwater use especially for video. I just hope the LX10 does not have the LX100 plague i.e. a non dustproof lens barrel as it was an expensive repair to have the sensor cleaned.